CN111712303B

CN111712303B - Powdery base composition

Info

Publication number: CN111712303B
Application number: CN201980013155.XA
Authority: CN
Inventors: 胡晓波; 刘剑菲; C·洛加纳坦; 任雯清
Original assignee: Unilever IP Holdings BV
Current assignee: Unilever IP Holdings BV
Priority date: 2018-02-13
Filing date: 2019-01-28
Publication date: 2023-09-05
Anticipated expiration: 2039-01-28
Also published as: PH12020551201A1; CN111712303A; ZA202004549B; MX2020008382A; WO2019158347A1

Abstract

A cosmetic powdered base composition is disclosed comprising fatty acid, organic base and particles having an average diameter of 1-50 microns, wherein the organic base is capable of providing a degree of neutralization of the fatty acid of 5-90%, up to 100% of the organic base is neutralized by the fatty acid, and the cosmetic powdered base composition is anhydrous.

Description

Powdery base composition

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a cosmetic powdered base composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a cosmetic powdered base composition which is free from caking problems. Such powdered base compositions can be used by the consumer directly for the rapid in situ preparation of skin care products and the resulting skin care products are easy to apply (spread) to the skin.

Background

Skin care compositions such as skin creams, skin lotions and vanishing creams are well known. Typical skin care compositions can readily comprise 60-90% water. That is, the weight proportion of water in the skin care product is large. Thus, water occupies a significant portion of the cost of transporting such commercial products between manufacture and retail. In addition, the cost of heating and cooling water during the preparation process is also high and the treatment time is generally long. Another problem associated with cosmetic products is that some of the more desirable ingredients in such products have instability.

International application publication No. WO 03/097003 A1 (Leisha) discloses base compositions useful in cosmetic compositions such as skin creams and vanishing creams. By adding suitable active and claimed (emotive) ingredients, such base compositions can be conveniently tailored to provide the consumer with the desired topical skin care composition. With such a base composition, the user can, for example, prepare a cosmetic composition directly and rapidly.

Such topical base compositions are favored by consumers. However, we have found that when the topical base composition is in powder form, it has a significant tendency to agglomerate. Agglomeration of the cosmetic powdered base composition is not only detrimental to the user's in situ preparation of the skin care product, but also to the appearance of the powdered base composition. Furthermore, the application feel of the final skin care product is also very important to the consumer. We have therefore recognised that it is important to address the problem of caking of a cosmetic powdered base composition without compromising the application feel of the final skin care product.

Disclosure of Invention

In a first aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic powdered base composition comprising fatty acid, organic base and particles having a diameter of 1-50 microns, wherein the organic base is capable of providing a degree of neutralization of the fatty acid of 5-90%, up to 100% of the organic base is neutralized by the fatty acid, and the cosmetic powdered base composition is anhydrous.

In a second aspect, the present invention relates to a process for preparing the cosmetic powdered base composition of the present invention, comprising the steps of: (i) Providing a mixture comprising a fatty acid and an organic base, wherein the organic base is capable of providing a degree of neutralization of the fatty acid of from 5 to 90%, and up to 100% of the organic base is neutralized by the fatty acid; and (ii) mixing particles having a diameter of 1 to 50 microns with the mixture obtained in step (i).

In a third aspect, the present invention relates to a kit for preparing a skin care product, the kit comprising a cosmetic container, a cosmetic powdered base composition according to the preceding claim and instructions for use of the kit.

In a fourth aspect, the present invention relates to a skin care product obtainable by mixing the cosmetic powdered base composition of the present invention with an aqueous composition.

All other aspects of the invention will become apparent from consideration of the detailed description and examples presented below.

Detailed Description

Except in the examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use may be understood as modified optionally by the word "about".

All amounts are by weight of the composition unless otherwise indicated.

It should be noted that any particular upper value may be associated with any particular lower value when any range of values is specified.

For the avoidance of doubt, the word "comprising" is intended to mean "including", but not necessarily "consisting of … …" or "consisting of … …". In other words, the listed steps or options need not be exhaustive.

The disclosure of the present invention is considered to cover all embodiments found in the claims that are multiple dependent on each other, irrespective of the fact that the claims have no multiple dependent or redundant relationship.

As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, "diameter" refers to the diameter in the non-aggregated state. For straightPolydisperse samples of particles having a diameter of less than 1 micron, the diameter referring to the z-average diameter, for example using a particle such as Zetadiameterr Nano ^TM The instrument of (uk Malvern Instruments Ltd) was measured by dynamic light scattering (see international standard ISO 13321). For polydisperse samples of particles having a diameter of at least 1 micron, the diameter refers to the apparent volume median diameter of the microcapsules [ D50, also known as x50, sometimes also known as D (0.5)]The diameter is determined, for example, using a system which complies with the requirements described in ISO 13320 (e.g. Masterdiameter available from Malvern Instruments Ltd ^TM 2000 Measured by laser diffraction.

As used herein, "anhydrous" means that the weight of water is less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, most preferably from 0.0 to 0.1% based on the total weight of the cosmetic powdered base composition.

As used herein, "water-soluble" refers to a component that dissolves in water at 25℃and atmospheric pressure to give a solution having a concentration of at least 5 g/L. As used herein, "water insoluble" refers to a component that dissolves in water at 25℃and atmospheric pressure to give a solution having a concentration of less than 5 g/L.

The fatty acid may be any suitable fatty acid, typically comprising a chain length from C ₁₂ To C ₂₄ Is a fatty acid moiety of (a). In certain preferred embodiments, the fatty acids used have a hydrocarbon chain length of from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from 14 to 20 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms. More preferably, the fatty acid is stearic acid or palmitic acid or a mixture of both. The fatty acids of the present invention are preferably prepared using Hystric acid which is essentially (typically about 90-95%) a mixture of stearic acid and palmitic acid, the ratio of stearic acid to palmitic acid being between 55:45 and 45:55.

The fatty acids may also comprise a relatively pure amount of one chain length fatty acid moiety. Although generally saturated, suitable fatty acids may comprise unsaturated fatty acid moieties and may comprise fatty acid moieties having a degree of substitution, such as hydroxy fatty acids. Preferably, however, the fatty acid is selected from the group comprising saturated fatty acids or a combination of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids. Saturated fatty acids refer to saturated fatty acids that are unsubstituted.

One essential element in the composition is an organic base, which is used to form an organic base soap with fatty acids. The organic base preferably comprises an alkanolamine, more preferably selected from the group consisting of triethanolamine, diethanolamine, monoethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, and combinations thereof. Most preferably, the organic base is triethanolamine.

The amount of organic base should be such that partial saponification of the fatty acid is typically provided, thereby producing an organic base soap. The organic base is capable of providing a degree of neutralization of the fatty acid of from 5 to 90%, preferably from 7 to 75%, more preferably from 9 to 60%, even more preferably from 11 to 50%, still even more preferably from 12 to 40%.

Preferably, the total amount of fatty acid and organic base soap is from 30 to 95 wt%, more preferably from 40 to 90 wt%, even more preferably from 60 to 85 wt% of the powdered base composition.

The cosmetic powdered base composition is anhydrous. In the powdered base composition, up to 100% of the organic base is neutralized by fatty acids. But also in the case where no organic base is neutralized by fatty acid. However, to make it easier for the consumer to generate the skin care product in situ, it is preferred that at least 30% of the organic base is neutralized by the fatty acid. More preferably, at least 50%, even more preferably 75-100%, still more preferably 100% of the organic base is neutralized by fatty acids in the powdered base composition.

For clarity, it should be noted that the particles are different from the fatty acids or soaps contained in the powdered base composition. I.e. the particles are chemically different from the fatty acids or soaps comprised in the powdered base composition. The particles may be inorganic particles, polymer particles, or a combination thereof. Preferably, the particles comprise silica, titania, boron nitride, zinc stearate, talc, mica, magnesium oxide, magnesium carbonate, silicone elastomer, polyethylene, polyacrylate, polymethyl methacrylate, polystyrene, polyurethane, polyamide, polylactic acid, cellulose, nylon, or combinations thereof. More preferably, the particles comprise silica, silicone elastomer, titanium dioxide, boron nitride, zinc stearate, talc, mica, silicone, polyethylene, polyacrylate, polystyrene, polyurethane, nylon, or combinations thereof. Even more preferably, the particles comprise silica, silicone elastomer, titanium dioxide, nylon, or combinations thereof. Particularly preferably, the silicone elastomer comprises a dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, a dimethicone crosspolymer, silicone-11, or mixtures thereof. More preferably, the particles comprise silica, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, titanium dioxide, nylon, or combinations thereof. Most preferably, the particles comprise silica, nylon, or a combination thereof.

The particles of the present invention have a diameter of 1-50 microns. Preferably, the particles have a diameter of 2-30 microns, more preferably 2.5-20 microns. Preferably, the particles are present in an amount of 2 to 40 wt%, more preferably 5 to 30 wt%, even more preferably 10 to 25 wt% of the cosmetic powdered base composition.

In order to solve the caking problem and/or to provide a better feel, the weight ratio of the particles to the total amount of fatty acid and soap in the cosmetic powdered base composition is preferably from 3:1 to 1:30, more preferably from 1:1 to 1:10, even more preferably from 1:2 to 1:7.

The cosmetic powdered base composition of the present invention preferably comprises a cosurfactant. Suitable cosurfactants may be selected, for example, from fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, and combinations thereof. Examples of fatty alcohols are lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or combinations thereof. Glycerol stearate and ethylene glycol stearate are examples of fatty acid esters. More preferably, the cosurfactant is a fatty alcohol, even more preferably cetyl alcohol.

The amount of cosurfactant is preferably 0.5 to 15 wt.%, more preferably 1 to 10 wt.%, even more preferably 2 to 8 wt.% of the powdered base composition.

The cosmetic powdered base composition may contain optional ingredients including whitening pigments, emollients, moisturizers, organic sunscreens, skin lightening agents, fragrances, natural extracts, or combinations thereof, so long as the cosmetic powdered base composition remains in powder form. Preferably, the optional ingredients are solid or water insoluble liquid at ambient temperature (25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure.

Whitening pigments are typically particles of high refractive index materials. For example, the whitening pigment may have a refractive index of greater than 1.3, more preferably greater than 1.8, and most preferably from 2.0 to 2.7. Examples of such whitening pigments are those comprising bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride, barium sulfate, mica, silica, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, aluminum oxide, zinc oxide, or combinations thereof. More preferred whitening pigments are particles comprising titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, mica, iron oxide, or combinations thereof. Even more preferred whitening pigments are particles comprising zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, titanium dioxide or combinations thereof, as these materials have a particularly high refractive index. Still even more preferably, the whitening pigment is selected from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide or mixtures thereof, most preferably the whitening pigment is titanium dioxide. The average diameter of the whitening pigment is generally from 15 nm to 1 micron, more preferably from 35 nm to 800 nm, even more preferably from 50 nm to 500 nm, still even more preferably from 100 nm to 300 nm.

Suitable emollient materials include silicones, hydrocarbons, triglycerides or mixtures thereof. These siloxanes may be organic, silicone-containing or fluorine-containing, volatile or nonvolatile, polar or nonpolar. Particularly preferred silicones include nonvolatile silicones such as emulsifying and non-emulsifying silicone elastomers. Representative of such materials are dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone cross polymers such as Dow Corning 9040, general Electric SFE 839 and Shin-Etsu KSG-18. Hydrocarbons may include mineral oil, petrolatum, and polyalphaolefins. Examples of preferred volatile hydrocarbons include polydecanes such as isododecane and isodecane (e.g., permethyl l-99A available from Presperse corporation) and C7-C8 to C12-C15 isoparaffins (e.g., isopar series available from Exxon Chemicals). Illustrative but non-limiting triglycerides are sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, canola oil, soybean oil, castor oil, borage oil, olive oil, shea butter, jojoba oil, and mixtures thereof. Mono-and diglycerides may also be useful. Particularly preferred are glyceryl monostearate and glyceryl distearate.

Particularly preferred humectants include petrolatum, aquaporin manipulating actives, oat flour, substituted ureas such as hydroxyethyl urea, hyaluronic acid and/or its precursors N-acetylglucosamine or mixtures thereof.

A wide variety of organic sunscreens are suitable for use in combination with the essential ingredients of the present invention. Suitable UV-A/UV-B sunscreens include: 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyl dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, digallic acyl trioleate, 2-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, ethyl 4- (bis (hydroxypropyl)) aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3, 3-diphenylacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, glycerol p-aminobenzoate, 3, 5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate, methyl anthranilate, p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid or aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-p-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, 2- (p-dimethylaminophenyl) -5-sulfonic acid benzoxazole acid, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyl dimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid, and mixtures thereof. The most suitable organic sunscreens are 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane or mixtures thereof.

According to the invention, vitamin B3 compounds (including derivatives of vitamin B3) such as niacin, niacin or niacinamide are preferred skin lightening agents, most preferably niacinamide.

The cosmetic powdered base composition may be prepared by any suitable method. However, it is preferred that the method of preparing the cosmetic powdered base composition of the present invention comprises the steps of:

(i) Providing a mixture comprising a fatty acid and an organic base, wherein the organic base is capable of providing a degree of neutralization of the fatty acid of from 5 to 90%, and up to 100% of the organic base is neutralized by the fatty acid;

(ii) Mixing particles having a diameter of 1-50 μm with the mixture obtained in step (i).

The mixture of step (i) is heated to a temperature above the melting temperature of the mixture, preferably in the range 40-80 ℃; the mixture is then cooled to a temperature below the crystallization temperature of the mixture, preferably below 40 ℃, more preferably below 25 ℃. The resulting mixture is preferably prepared in powder form prior to step (ii).

The cosmetic powdered base composition may be provided to the consumer in any suitable manner for use in the separate preparation of a cream. Thus, preferably, the cosmetic powder base composition is disposed within a cosmetic container. The volume of the cosmetic container is preferably 2 to 250mL, more preferably 5 to 100mL, even more preferably 8 to 50mL, still even more preferably 10 to 30mL.

Preferably, the kit of parts comprises a cosmetic container, a cosmetic powdered base composition according to the invention and instructions for use of said kit. The consumer can prepare the final skin care product by mixing the cosmetic powdered base composition with the aqueous composition according to instructions for use. Preferably, the skin care product is produced within 0.1-30 minutes, more preferably within 0.5-15 minutes, even more preferably within 1-7 minutes. The instructions preferably comprise instructions regarding the amount of aqueous composition to be added, more preferably comprise instructions regarding the amount and temperature of aqueous composition to be added, and even more preferably comprise instructions regarding the amount and temperature of aqueous composition to be added and the desired pattern of stirring of the mixture.

For convenience of operation by the consumer, the kit of parts preferably additionally comprises an aqueous composition physically separate from the cosmetic powdered base composition. Preferably, the aqueous composition is placed in a separate packaging unit. The separate packaging unit may be part of the cosmetic container or another cosmetic container.

By aqueous composition is meant a composition comprising at least 5% by weight of water, preferably at least 15% by weight, more preferably at least 25% by weight of the aqueous composition. Preferably, the aqueous composition comprises 30-100% by weight of the aqueous composition, more preferably 50-100% by weight of water. Even more preferably, the aqueous composition is water.

In certain embodiments, the aqueous composition preferably comprises a water-soluble ingredient. Preferably, the water-soluble ingredient is stable in water. Preferably, the aqueous composition comprises a polyol. The polyol may be selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, isopentylene glycol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol or mixtures thereof. The most preferred polyol is glycerol, also known as glycerin. The amount of polyol may be 0.1 to 15 wt%, preferably 0.4 to 8 wt% of the aqueous composition.

The present invention also provides a skin care product obtainable by mixing the cosmetic powdered base composition of the present invention with the aqueous composition.

Preferably, the final skin care product comprises fatty acids in an amount of 1-25% by weight of the skin care product. More preferably, the fatty acid is present in the skin care product in an amount of 2-20 wt.% of the skin care product, even more preferably 4-15 wt.% of the skin care product. The organic base soap is preferably present in the final skin care product in an amount of from 0.1 to 15 wt.%, more preferably from 0.5 to 10 wt.%, even more preferably from 1 to 8 wt.% of the skin care product. Particles having a diameter of 1 to 50 microns are preferably present in the skin care product in an amount of 0.2 to 8% by weight of the composition, more preferably 0.5 to 6% by weight, even more preferably 1 to 4% by weight.

The skin care product preferably comprises from 10 to 98 wt%, more preferably from 30 to 95 wt%, even more preferably from 50 to 92 wt%, most preferably from 66 to 90 wt% of water of the product.

The final skin care product may comprise whitening pigments, emollients, moisturizers, organic sunscreens, skin lightening agents, fragrances, natural extracts or combinations thereof.

Skin care products are products suitable for topical application to human skin, including leave-on and rinse-off products. Preferably, the skin care product is a leave-on product. The term "leave-on" as used herein refers to a product that is applied to or rubbed onto the skin, leaving it on the skin. The term "skin" as used herein includes the skin of the face (excluding the eyelids and lips), neck, chest, abdomen, back, arms, armpits, hands and legs. Preferably, "skin" includes the skin of the face (excluding the eyelids and lips) and the underarm. More preferably, skin refers to facial skin other than lips and eyelids.

The following examples are provided to facilitate an understanding of the present invention. These examples are not intended to limit the scope of the claims.

Detailed Description

Examples

Example 1

This example demonstrates the caking problem of the powdered base composition.

The preparation of the powdered base composition a is as follows: 89.79g of stearic acid, 2.79g of cetyl alcohol, 6.52g of triethanolamine and 0.9g of fragrance were mixed and melted at 80℃and then made into powder.

The powdered base composition a prepared was placed in a closed vial. After one week of storage at room temperature, agglomerations were found in the powdered base composition a. The caking problem becomes more serious if the powdered base composition a is stored for a longer period of time, for example, two weeks.

Example 2

This example demonstrates the preparation of a powdered composition containing different particles.

TABLE 1

A pure tapioca starch supplied by Akzo Nobel

B Toray TR-1 supplied by KOBO Co

C MSS-500/3H supplied by KOBO Co

d SUNSIL-TinNatural white from Sunjin Beauty Science

e X.DE TITANE ORGANOPHILE W877 supplied by SENSIENT Corp

A series of powdered base compositions was prepared by mixing freshly prepared powdered composition A as prepared in example 1 with different particles in a weight ratio of 4:1 (powdered composition A: particles). The final formulation of the powdered base composition is shown in table 1.

Example 3

This example demonstrates the effect of particle size on caking of the composition.

TABLE 2

Samples were placed in closed vials and stored at room temperature for one week to evaluate the caking properties of the samples. The results are shown in Table 2. None of samples 1 to 3, sample B and sample C had caking problems.

15g of water was added to 2g of each sample in the vial at room temperature. The vial was shaken with a human hand for less than one minute. The product obtained is a homogeneous vanishing cream.

The final vanishing cream was evaluated for its feel upon application. When the samples were applied to the skin by hand, the vanishing creams produced by samples B and C formed chips or pellets on the skin, indicating that they had a balling problem. In contrast, the skin care products produced by samples 1 to 3 are easily applied to the skin. The results are shown in the last column of table 2.

Thus, particles having a diameter of 1-50 microns not only solve the caking problem of the powdered composition, but also allow the final skin care product to be easily applied to the skin.

Claims

1. A cosmetic powdered base composition comprising:

(a) A fatty acid;

(b) An organic base; and

(c) Particles having a diameter of 1-30 microns;

wherein (i) the organic base is capable of providing a degree of neutralization of the fatty acid of from 5 to 90% (ii) up to 100% of the organic base is neutralized by fatty acids in the composition, (iii) the total amount of fatty acids and organic base soaps is from 30 to 95% by weight of the powdered base composition, and the cosmetic powdered base composition is anhydrous.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the particles have a diameter of 2-30 microns.

3. The composition of claim 2, wherein the particles have a diameter of 2.5-20 microns.

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the particles comprise silica, titania, boron nitride, zinc stearate, talc, mica, magnesium oxide, magnesium carbonate, silicone elastomer, polyethylene, polyacrylate, polymethyl methacrylate, polystyrene, polyurethane, polyamide, polylactic acid, cellulose, nylon, or combinations thereof.

5. The composition of claim 4, wherein the particles comprise silica, silicone elastomer, titanium dioxide, nylon, or a combination thereof.

6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the particles are present in an amount of 5-40% by weight of the composition.

7. The composition of claim 6, wherein the particles are present in an amount of 15-25% by weight of the composition.

8. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the fatty acid is stearic acid, palmitic acid or a mixture thereof.

9. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the weight ratio of the particles to the total amount of fatty acid and soap is from 1:1 to 1:10.

10. A composition according to any of the preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the organic base is selected from triethanolamine, diethanolamine, monoethanolamine, triisopropionaldehyde amine or a combination thereof.

11. The composition of claim 10, wherein the organic base is triethanolamine.

12. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the total amount of fatty acid and organic base soap is 60-85% by weight of the powdered base composition.

13. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition comprises a cosurfactant.

14. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition comprises a fatty alcohol.

15. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition comprises cetyl alcohol.

16. A method of preparing the composition of any one of claims 1-15, comprising the steps of:

(i) Providing a mixture comprising a fatty acid and an organic base, wherein the organic base is capable of providing a degree of neutralization of the fatty acid of from 5 to 90%, and up to 100% of the organic base is neutralized by the fatty acid; and

(ii) Mixing the particles having a diameter of 1-30 μm with the mixture obtained in step (i).

17. A kit for preparing a skin care product, the kit comprising a cosmetic container, a composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 15 and instructions for use of the kit.

18. The kit of claim 17, wherein the cosmetic container is provided with measurement indicia.

19. The kit of claim 17 or 18, wherein the kit additionally comprises an aqueous composition physically separate from the cosmetic powdered base composition.

20. The kit of claim 19, wherein the aqueous composition is water.

21. A skin care product obtainable by mixing the cosmetic powdered base composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 with an aqueous composition.