CN111246836B

CN111246836B - Hair treatment agent

Info

Publication number: CN111246836B
Application number: CN201880068478.4A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 石森纲行
Original assignee: Shiseido Co Ltd
Current assignee: Shiseido Co Ltd
Priority date: 2017-10-30
Filing date: 2018-06-27
Publication date: 2023-03-28
Anticipated expiration: 2038-06-27
Also published as: TW201922211A; JP2019081747A; JP2019089851A; JP6501937B1; CN111246836A; WO2019087458A1

Abstract

The invention provides a hair treatment agent which has a high hair-straightening effect, has an optimum pH value closer to that of hair or scalp than before, is less likely to cause excessive hair convergence, has low irritation to scalp, and is excellent in use touch feeling. The hair treatment agent of the present invention contains (a) glyoxylic acid and (b) 1 or more members selected from the group consisting of gluconolactone and erucic acid lactone, and the component (a): the mixing ratio (mass ratio) of the component (b) is 1:1 to 20:1, wherein the hair treatment agent has a pH value in the range of 2.0 to 3.8. Component (a) in the hair treatment agent: (b) The blending ratio (mass ratio) of the components is more preferably 2.5:1 to 10:1. further, the pH of the hair treatment agent is preferably in the range of 2.5 to 3.8.

Description

Hair treatment agent

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a hair treatment agent. More specifically, the present invention relates to a hair treatment agent that can achieve a high hair straightening effect (hair elongation effect) for irregular hair or curly hair. The hair treatment agent of the present invention achieves a high hair-straightening effect and has an optimum pH value closer to hair or scalp than before, and therefore, is less likely to cause excessive hair convergence and has low irritation to scalp.

Background

In general, a hair straightening agent contains a reducing agent and an oxidizing agent as main components, and the effects thereof suppress irregularities of hair. However, the action of the reducing agent and the oxidizing agent is often accompanied by hair damage, and impairs smoothness, good combing property, dry feeling, and moist feeling of the hair, and the touch of the hair after the treatment is deteriorated, and the hair surface is rough, so that the appearance gloss is lost, and the texture of the hair is lowered. The influence of such oxidizing agents and reducing agents on hair is widely recognized by general consumers, and is a factor for intentionally avoiding curl correction.

Therefore, there is a need for the development of a hair treatment agent which can suppress irregular hair and correct curls without containing a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent.

As an ingredient for straightening hair instead of the reducing agent or the oxidizing agent, it is proposed to use sugar lactone such as gluconolactone. Patent document 1 describes that the hair-straightening effect obtained by a sugar lactone is synergistically improved by combining the sugar lactone with a di-or tricarboxylic acid (a di-or tricarboxylic acid such as citric acid) in a specific amount. In addition, it has also been proposed to use lactone derivatives such as erucamide (Erucalactone) or stearolide (Stearolactone) as a bending-improving agent for hair. Patent document 2 describes that the bending and tangling of hair can be improved by applying a lactone derivative to hair and heat-treating the hair to react and bond the lactone derivative with amino groups contained in the protein of the hair. However, the hair-straightening effect achieved by these methods is weak and insufficient, and may easily return to the original state by repeated shampooing or the like, or may give a feeling of dryness or stiffness after use.

On the other hand, a method of using glyoxylic acid, which is a monocarboxylic acid, as another hair-straightening component other than a sugar lactone or a lactone derivative has also been proposed. For example, patent document 3 discloses a method of applying a solution containing glyoxylic acid to hair, leaving the hair in place, drying the hair, and then applying mechanical force and heat to the hair by a hair straightening iron to straighten the hair. However, the hair-straightening effect achieved by glyoxylic acid alone is not sufficient and is not satisfactory.

Therefore, in order to improve the hair-straightening effect obtained by glyoxylic acid, patent document 4 proposes the use of glyoxylic acid in combination with a guanidinium salt and/or urea. However, in order to exert a sufficient straightening effect, the pH of the hair treatment agent must be set to a range of 1.0 to 2.0, and therefore, the hair may excessively converge due to excessively strong acidity, resulting in a dry feeling or a stiff feeling. In addition, strong acidity may cause a large irritation or burden to the scalp, which may cause inflammation of the scalp or reduce the scalp protective function.

Documents of the prior art

Patent literature

Patent document 1: japanese patent laid-open publication No. 2015-517542

Patent document 2: japanese patent laid-open No. 2015-124167

Patent document 3: japanese patent No. 5919267

Patent document 4: japanese patent No. 5947340

Disclosure of Invention

Problems to be solved by the invention

The present invention has been made in view of the above-described drawbacks of the conventional techniques, and an object of the present invention is to provide a hair treatment agent which has a high hair-straightening effect, is soft and safe to the hair or scalp, and has an excellent feeling of use.

Means for solving the problems

As a result of extensive studies to solve the above problems, the present inventors have found that a hair treatment agent having a high hair-straightening effect and an optimum pH value closer to hair or scalp than before can be obtained by using glyoxylic acid in combination with gluconolactone and/or erucic acid lactone at a specific mixing ratio, and thus having a low irritation to scalp without excessively converging hair, and having an excellent feel to the touch, has been used, and have completed the present invention.

Namely, the present invention provides a hair treatment agent comprising

(a) Glyoxylic acid, and

(b) More than 1 selected from gluconolactone and erucic acid lactone,

(a) The components: the mixing ratio (mass ratio) of the component (b) is 1:1 to 20:1,

the hair treatment agent has a pH value in the range of 2.0 to 3.8.

ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION

The hair treatment agent of the present invention is characterized by using glyoxylic acid in combination with gluconolactone and/or erucic acid lactone. As described above, these are known as active ingredients for hair straightening. However, the present inventors have unexpectedly found that, when glyoxylic acid and gluconolactone and/or erucic acid lactone are used in combination at a specific mixing ratio among the components considered to contribute to hair straightening, a high hair straightening effect is obtained even in a pH range close to the pH of healthy hair or scalp (about 4 to 5). That is, the hair treatment agent of the present invention can achieve a high hair-straightening effect under a pH condition close to that of hair or scalp, and therefore, is less likely to cause excessive hair shrinkage, has low irritation to the scalp, and is particularly excellent in feeling of use and safety.

Since glyoxylic acid is a monocarboxylic acid, the combination of glyoxylic acid with gluconolactone or erucic acid lactone and the effect thereof in the present invention cannot be expected from patent document 1, which requires the combination of gluconolactone with a dibasic or tribasic carboxylic acid.

Detailed Description

The hair treatment agent of the present invention contains (a) glyoxylic acid and (b) 1 or more selected from gluconolactone and erucic acid lactone in a specific mixing ratio and has a specific pH value. The present invention will be described in detail below.

< (a) glyoxylic acid >

Glyoxylic acid is one of carboxylic acids represented by the following formulae, which have an aldehyde group and a carboxyl group in 1 molecule.

Glyoxylic acid has been confirmed to have a hair-straightening action, a pH-adjusting action, and the like, and is widely used in cosmetics and quasi drugs.

In the present specification, the term "glyoxylic acid" encompasses hydrates or salts of glyoxylic acid in addition to glyoxylic acid. As an example of the hydrate, glyoxylic acid monohydrate can be cited. Examples of the salt include alkali metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt and calcium salt, tertiary ammonium salt and quaternary ammonium salt.

The amount of glyoxylic acid to be added is 1 to 25 mass%, preferably 2 to 20 mass%, more preferably 2.5 to 15 mass% in terms of the purity of glyoxylic acid relative to the total amount of the hair treatment agent of the present invention. If the amount is less than 1 mass%, a sufficient hair-straightening effect cannot be obtained, while if it exceeds 25 mass%, improvement of the hair-straightening effect according to the amount is not expected.

< (b) gluconolactone and erucic acid lactone >

Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid having a structure in which the hydroxyl group at the 1-position of glucose is substituted with a ketone.

Glucono-delta-lactone (D-glucono-1, 5-lactone) and glucono-gamma-lactone (D-glucono-1, 4-lactone) are present glucono-delta-lactone, preferably glucono-delta-lactone represented by the following formula.

Gluconolactone is in equilibrium with gluconic acid by hydrolysis in the presence of water, and is in a state in which gluconolactone and gluconic acid coexist. Therefore, in the present specification, the term "gluconolactone" encompasses not only gluconolactone but also gluconic acid as a hydrolysate.

Erucic acid lactone (gamma-docosanoic acid lactone) is a lactone derivative represented by the following formula.

Erucic acid lactone can be chemically synthesized by a known method (for example, the method described in patent document 2), and a commercially available product can be used.

The amount of gluconolactone and/or erucic acid lactone blended is 0.1 to 10 mass%, preferably 0.3 to 7 mass%, more preferably 0.5 to 3 mass% with respect to the total amount of the hair treatment agent of the present invention. If the amount is less than 0.1 mass%, a sufficient hair-straightening effect cannot be obtained, while if the amount exceeds 10 mass%, improvement in the hair-straightening effect according to the amount added cannot be expected.

In the hair treatment agent of the present invention, the following components (a) and (b) are required to be contained in a mixing ratio (mass ratio) of glyoxylic acid (a) to gluconolactone and/or erucic acid lactone (b): (b) components 1:1 to 20:1, in the same manner. Further, by setting the blending ratio to 1.25:1 to 20: 1. more preferably, it is set to 2.5:1 to 10:1, both the corrective effect and the feeling of use of the treated hair can be further improved.

< pH value >

The hair treatment agent of the present invention must have a pH value in the range of 2.0 to 3.8. If the pH is less than 2.0, the hair may be excessively converged or strong irritation may be caused to the scalp, while if the pH exceeds 3.8, a sufficient hair-straightening effect may not be obtained. Further, by setting the pH value to a range of 2.5 to 3.8, more preferably a range of 3.0 to 3.7, and particularly preferably a range of 3.3 to 3.6, the feel of the treated hair in use becomes very good.

The alkaline agent for adjusting the pH of the hair treatment agent to the above range is not particularly limited, and inorganic bases such as sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, organic bases such as triethanolamine, isopropanolamine, and basic amino acids, and the like can be used.

The hair treatment agent of the present invention may contain, in addition to the components (a) and (b), other optional components that are generally used in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and the like, within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention. Examples of such components include thickeners, polyhydric alcohols, lower alcohols, surfactants, perfumes, pH regulators, and water.

The hair treatment agent can be used as an optional additive, for example, by blending a thickener, thereby improving the usability of the hair treatment agent such as the resistance to dripping.

Examples of the thickener include: gum arabic, carrageenan, gum tragacanth, quince seeds (quince), casein, sodium caseinate, dextrin, gelatin, sodium alginate, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, polyvinyl alcohol, sodium polyacrylate, carboxyvinyl polymer, guar gum, xanthan gum, and the like.

When the thickener is blended, the blending amount is preferably adjusted so that the viscosity of the hair treatment agent becomes 2000 to 5000mPa · s, for example. The viscosity is measured by a B-type viscometer at 25 ℃, more specifically, a VDA-type viscometer (DIGITAL VIMETRON VDA manufactured by Shibaura systems Co., ltd.), spindle No.1, spindle No.2 or spindle No.3, and at a rotation speed of 12rpm for 1 minute.

Further, the usability can be improved by blending a polyol as an optional additive component.

As the polyhydric alcohol, there may be mentioned: dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1, 3-butanediol, and the like.

The formulation of the hair treatment agent of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as the desired effect can be sufficiently exerted, and for example, it may be in the form of liquid, emulsion, gel, foam, cream, or the like.

< method of using hair treatment agent >

The hair treatment agent of the present invention can correct irregular hair or curly hair and elongate hair by treating hair according to the following steps;

(1) Applying the hair treatment agent to hair;

(2) A step of leaving the hair in a spread state to allow the hair treatment agent to act on the hair sufficiently;

(3) Washing the hair with water to rinse off the hair treatment agent;

(4) Drying the hair; and

(5) And a step of straightening hair with a hair iron for straightening hair.

(1) Coating process

The hair treatment agent of the present invention can be applied to dry hair before shampooing, but is preferably applied to wet hair which has been washed with a shampoo and then dried, or to dry hair which has been wiped off with a towel, in which adhered moisture is wiped off, in terms of the ease with which the hair treatment agent penetrates into the hair.

(2) Placing procedure

After the application of the hair treatment agent, the hair treatment agent is allowed to act on the hair at room temperature (about 25 ℃) for 10 to 30 minutes, more preferably 15 to 20 minutes. If the leaving time is less than 10 minutes, a sufficient elongation effect of the hair cannot be obtained, while if the leaving time exceeds 30 minutes, further improvement of the hair-straightening effect according to the leaving time cannot be expected.

(3) Water washing step

The hair treatment agent is rinsed from the hair by rinsing the hair with water or warm water. By washing the hair treatment agent from the hair, the subsequent hair drying or treatment can be easily performed.

(4) Drying step

After washing, the water was wiped off with a towel, and then the hair was dried with a blower.

(5) Procedure of hair curler

The hair is stretched in a straight state while applying mechanical force and heat to the hair by a hair iron for hair styling heated to 140 to 200 ℃, preferably about 180 ℃.

Examples

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to specific examples below, but the present invention is not limited to the examples below. The amount to be blended in the following examples and the like represents% by mass unless otherwise specified. Before each example is specifically described, the evaluation method used will be described.

< evaluation of degree of correction >

(1) Experimental methods

A bundle of hair of Japanese (same person) was rolled up into a wavy shape, and a bundle of hair having a length of 20cm and a weight of 0.1g, which formed 2 peaks when naturally drooping, was prepared. The hair bundle was applied with each sample of examples or comparative examples, left to stand at room temperature for 15 minutes, washed with water for 1 minute, wiped with a towel, dried with a hair dryer, and treated with a hair iron using a hair iron set at a high temperature of 180 ℃.

(2) Evaluation method

The treated bundle was suspended, and the angle (α) of the intersection point formed at the peak of the bundle was measured by approximating the slope of the peak remaining on the bundle to a straight line. That is, the sharper the peak remaining on the hair bundle, the closer to 0 α, and the more the hair bundle extends linearly, the closer to 180 α.

The correction degree is calculated by substituting the peak angle thus obtained into the following equation.

Degree of correction (%) = (α/180) × 100

On the other hand, the remaining peaks after the treatment were regarded as no correction effect, and the correction degree was not calculated.

< evaluation of feeling of use >

(1) Experimental methods

After the correction treatment of the hair bundle of the chinese human by using the samples of each example or comparative example, 5 professional functional evaluators evaluated the feeling of touch when the hair was touched with a hand in 3 stages according to the following evaluation criteria. The average score of the evaluation results of all the professional functional evaluators was calculated, and the evaluation was performed based on the following criteria.

(2) Evaluation criteria

Hair was smooth and very pleasant to the touch: 3 points of

The hair was slightly stiff, but the feel was quite good: 2 is divided into

Hair has a dry and harsh feel, and is poor in touch: 1 minute (1)

(3) Criterion for determination

A:2.5 min or more

B:2 points or more and less than 2.5 points

C: less than 2 points

< examples 1 to 12 and comparative examples 1 to 8 >

Hair treatment agents having the compositions shown in tables 1 and 2 below were prepared by mixing the respective ingredients into purified water and stirring until they became uniform.

The hair treatment agent obtained was evaluated for hair straightening effect and feeling of use of treated hair according to the above-described methods.

[ Table 1]

[ Table 2]

Comparative example 1 (glyoxylic acid 15% (purity); pH 1.5) the degree of correction was 100% because the tufts were fully extended and all peaks disappeared (α =180 ℃). However, although the hair-straightening effect was excellent, the pH value was 1.5, and the stimulation or the load on the hair or the scalp was too strong, and the feeling of use and safety were poor (comparative example 1). In addition, in this formulation, sufficient hair-straightening effect could not be obtained by simply increasing the pH to 3.5, and as a result, 2 peaks remained and no improvement in feeling of use was observed (comparative example 2). Furthermore, even when urea or guanidine hydrochloride, which is known to improve the hair-straightening effect of glyoxylic acid, was added, sufficient hair-straightening effect and feeling of use were not obtained when the pH was 3.5 (comparative examples 3 and 4).

In contrast, when glyoxylic acid and gluconolactone were mixed in a ratio of 1:1 to 20: when the blending ratio of 1 was combined, sufficient hair-straightening effect and feeling upon use were obtained even if the pH was 3.5 (examples 1 to 7). In particular in the case of glyoxylic acid: gluconolactone compounding ratio was 2.5:1 to 10:1 (examples 1 to 3, 6 to 7), a hair-straightening effect comparable to that under a strongly acidic condition (comparative example 5) was obtained. The same effect as this was obtained at pH 2.5 (example 8), but at pH 4.0, the acidity was too weak to obtain a sufficient hair-straightening effect (comparative example 6). When the blending ratio of glyoxylic acid to gluconolactone is not within the above range, neither the hair-straightening effect nor the feeling upon use is sufficient (comparative example 7).

The hair-straightening effect and the feeling of use achieved by the present invention were not affected by the presence or absence or kind of the thickener (examples 9 to 12).

Further, when gluconolactone was added alone, a sufficient hair-straightening effect and feeling upon use could not be obtained (comparative example 8).

< examples 13 to 23 and comparative examples 9 to 11 >

Hair treatment agents having the compositions shown in tables 3 and 4 below were prepared by mixing the respective ingredients into purified water and stirring until they became uniform.

The obtained hair treatment agent was evaluated for hair straightening effect and feeling of use of treated hair according to the above method.

[ Table 3]

[ Table 4]

Reacting glyoxylic acid with erucic acid lactone in a ratio of 1:1 to 20: when the blending ratio of 1 was combined, sufficient hair-straightening effect and feeling of use were obtained even if the pH was 3.5 (examples 13 to 18, 20 to 23). In particular in the case of glyoxylic acid: erucic acid lactone mixing ratio is 2.5:1 to 10: in the case of 1 (examples 13 to 15, 17 to 18, and 21 to 23), a high hair-straightening effect comparable to that under strongly acidic conditions (comparative example 10) was obtained. The same effect as that was obtained at pH 2.5 (example 19), but at pH 4.0, the acidity was too weak to obtain a sufficient hair-straightening effect (comparative example 11).

When erucic acid lactone was added alone, sufficient hair-straightening effect and feeling of use could not be obtained (comparative example 9).

Claims

1. A hair treatment agent comprising

(a) Glyoxylic acid having a purity of 2.5 to 20 mass%,

(b) 0.1 to 10 mass% of at least 1 selected from gluconolactone and erucic acid lactone, and

(c) An alkaline agent, and a water-soluble organic solvent,

component (a) by mass: the compounding ratio of the component (b) is 1.25:1 to 20:1,

the hair treatment agent has a pH value in the range of 2.0 to 3.8.

2. The hair treatment agent according to claim 1, wherein the pH is in the range of 2.5 to 3.8.

3. The hair treatment agent according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the component (a): the mixing ratio of the component (b) is 2.5:1 to 10:1.