CN111228157B - Application of tremella spores or tremella fermentation product serving as ultraviolet-isolating component for cosmetics - Google Patents
Application of tremella spores or tremella fermentation product serving as ultraviolet-isolating component for cosmetics Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
Experiments prove that the tremella spores have a good ultraviolet isolation effect, and tremella polysaccharide in the tremella spore fermentation product has good film forming property, oxidation resistance, repairability and other effects.
Description
Technical Field
The invention discloses a new application of tremella spores and a fermented product thereof, particularly relates to an application of tremella spores or a fermented product as an ultraviolet-ray isolating component for cosmetics, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics.
Background
With the recent destruction of the ozone layer of the atmosphere, the radiation amount of ultraviolet rays in sunlight to the ground is increasing, and the skin of people is damaged and destroyed. Therefore, cosmetics with the function of isolating and protecting against sunlight are receiving more and more attention. Meanwhile, the requirements of people on the quality and safety of cosmetics are higher and higher, and more natural components are pursued by people due to the advantages of remarkable effect, safety, mildness, no stimulation and the like, so that the natural components are the mainstream trend of the research and development of cosmetics in future.
Currently, sunscreen materials used in cosmetics are largely classified into physical sunscreens and chemical sunscreens. The main action principle of physical sunscreens is to block or reflect ultraviolet rays by forming a dense protective film on the skin surface, and common sunscreens include titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and the like. The main disadvantage of physical sunscreens is poor skin feel, easy pore blockage, and skin inflammation. The main action principle of the chemical sunscreen agent is to replace skin cells to absorb part of ultraviolet rays, so that the damage of the ultraviolet rays to the skin is reduced. Mainly comprises p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, anthranilate derivatives, cinnamates, salicylates and the like. The chemical sunscreen agent has the disadvantages of high skin irritation, easy allergy, and low safety.
Tremella is one of the traditional rare edible fungi in China and is one of the important food with homology of medicine and food. Has effects in invigorating spleen, stimulating appetite, invigorating qi, clearing intestine, nourishing yin, moistening lung, and enhancing immunity. The tremella polysaccharide is a main active substance in tremella, is called as vegetative hyaluronic acid, has a certain capacity of removing hydroxyl free radicals, and can prevent skin aging, promote growth of elastic cells, reduce damage of ultraviolet rays to the skin and repair photodamaged skin by inhibiting peroxidation of cell lipid. Meanwhile, the tremella polysaccharide has good lubricity and film forming property, can form a layer of uniform and breathable film on the surface of skin, enables the skin to have good smooth and moist feeling, has a protective effect on the skin, and is often used as a high-grade raw material to be added into cosmetics. At present, the fields of medicines and cosmetics are widely researched aiming at the functions of tremella polysaccharides, and the tremella polysaccharides are purified by leaching, fermentation and other modes and applied to the fields of medicines, cosmetics and the like, but the research and the application of tremella spore thalli are few.
Disclosure of Invention
According to the invention, the fermentation thalli of the tremella spores are researched and tested, and the tremella spores have a good ultraviolet isolation effect and an obvious effect compared with tremella polysaccharides and other existing sunscreen components. Therefore, the invention provides the application of the tremella spores or tremella spore fermentation product as the ultraviolet isolation component for the cosmetics, the tremella spores or tremella spore fermentation product has the advantages of nature and safety, and the tremella spore fermentation product has the effects of resisting oxidation and preserving moisture of tremella polysaccharide besides the ultraviolet isolation effect, and can meet the requirements of protecting skin and isolating ultraviolet rays.
The invention provides application of tremella spores or a fermentation product thereof as an ultraviolet-ray isolating component for cosmetics. Experiments prove that the tremella spores have a good ultraviolet ray isolating effect, and the effective components in the tremella spore fermentation product mainly comprise tremella spores and tremella polysaccharide. The tremella polysaccharide has good film forming property and good effects of oxidation resistance, repair and the like, and tremella spores can isolate and absorb partial ultraviolet rays, so that the tremella polysaccharide and the tremella spores can play a role in moisturizing and isolating sun-screening, is a good ultraviolet ray isolating component, and can be applied to various isolated and sun-screening cosmetics.
Further, the tremella spores are propagules of tremella, and can be stably obtained in a fermentation mode. The tremella spores can be any tremella spores reported in the prior art. Further, the tremella spore fermentation product is obtained by fermenting a tremella spore which is a reproduction body of tremella, and preferably, the tremella spore fermentation product is obtained by deeply fermenting the tremella spore with liquid. The liquid submerged fermentation is also called submerged liquid fermentation or liquid submerged fermentation, and is a common technology for industrial production in the field of fermentation, and fermentation liquor with higher thallus concentration can be obtained, generally comprising the steps of seed culture and fermentation culture, and only the culture conditions are different according to different processes and strains.
Preferably, the tremella spore fermentation product is obtained by performing post-treatment on fermentation liquor obtained by fermenting (preferably performing liquid submerged fermentation) tremella spores, and the post-treatment comprises the steps of sterilizing the fermentation liquor at high temperature, centrifuging after sterilizing at high temperature to obtain thalli, and performing freeze drying on the thalli to obtain freeze-dried powder.
In a specific embodiment of the present invention, a specific method for preparing a tremella spore fermentation product is provided, which comprises the following steps:
(1) Inoculating tremella spores into a seed culture medium, and culturing for 2-5 days at 24-30 ℃ under the condition of 150-250 rpm to obtain seed liquid; the seed culture medium comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 0.3 to 0.7 percent of peptone, 0.1 to 0.3 percent of magnesium sulfate, 0.2 to 0.5 percent of dipotassium phosphate, 1 to 3 percent of glucose, 0.001 to 0.003 percent of vitamin B and the balance of water;
(2) Inoculating the seed solution into a fermentation culture medium according to the inoculation amount of 5-10%, and fermenting for 1-3 days at 25-30 deg.C under stirring speed of 600-800 rpm and ventilation amount of 0.5-2 vvm to obtain fermentation liquid, wherein the pH is maintained at 2-4 during fermentation; the fermentation medium comprises the following components in percentage by weight: peptone 0.1% -0.3%, ammonium sulfate 0.1% -0.3%, magnesium sulfate 0.1% -0.3%, dipotassium hydrogen phosphate 0.1% -0.3%, glucose 1% -4%, vitamin B1.001% -0.003%, and water in balance;
(3) Sterilizing the fermentation liquor at high temperature, centrifuging the sterilized fermentation liquor, collecting thalli, and freeze-drying the collected thalli to obtain the tremella spore fermentation product. The obtained product is light yellow to yellow powder, and has slight fermentation flavor.
Furthermore, when the tremella spores or the fermentation products thereof defined above are used as ultraviolet-shielding components for cosmetics, the tremella spores or the fermentation products thereof can be used as a cosmetic shielding agent and a cosmetic sun-screening agent. Meanwhile, the tremella spore fermentation product also contains tremella polysaccharide, so that the tremella spore fermentation product also has the effects of antioxidation, moisture preservation and the like of the tremella polysaccharide, can meet the requirements of skin care and sun protection isolation, and has a good effect. When the tremella spores or the fermentation products thereof are used in cosmetics, the dosage is preferably as follows: the cosmetic contains 1 × 10 per 100g 10 -1×10 11 And (4) adding tremella spores. When the content is too low, the ultraviolet-screening effect is not good, and when the content is too high, the ultraviolet-screening effect is not easy to mix with other components of the cosmetic, so that the stability of the cosmetic is affected.
The invention also provides a cosmetic, wherein the raw materials or effective components in the cosmetic comprise tremella spores or tremella spore fermentation products, and preferably tremella spore fermentation products. The definition of the tremella spores and the fermentation products thereof is consistent with the definition of the tremella spores and the fermentation products thereof.
Furthermore, the tremella spores or the fermentation product thereof can be used alone or combined with other separants and sunscreens reported in the prior art as an ultraviolet-shielding component of cosmetics.
Further, the cosmetic contains 1 × 10 per 100g 10 -1×10 11 And (4) adding tremella spores.
Further, the cosmetic is preferably a cosmetic having an ultraviolet screening effect, such as a screening cosmetic or a sunscreen cosmetic.
Further, the type of the cosmetic may be a lotion, an emulsion, a cream, a makeup base, a sunscreen cream, etc.
The tremella spore or the fermentation product thereof is natural, safe, mild and good in compatibility with skin, and experiments prove that the tremella spore or the fermentation product thereof has a good ultraviolet ray blocking effect, is a good isolation sunscreen component for cosmetics, has the advantages of safety, small irritation, good air permeability and the like compared with titanium dioxide and a chemical sunscreen agent, has certain antioxidation and moisturizing effects, can better reduce the light damage of ultraviolet rays to the skin, can meet the requirements of skin care and sun protection, and can be widely applied to various cosmetics. The invention adopts the fermentation method to produce the tremella spores and the fermented products thereof, has high yield and good uniformity, can ensure the stability of the products, and is suitable for industrial application.
Detailed Description
To better illustrate the advantages and features of the present invention, the present invention is described in further detail below with reference to specific examples. It should be understood that the following examples are only for illustrating the present invention and are not to be construed as limiting the contents thereof.
In the following examples, the tremella spores used are a strain of tremella HX5-1 stored in the laboratory, and are stored in China Center for Type Culture Collection (CCTCC) with the preservation numbers: CCTCC M2017271.
Example 1 preparation of Tremella spore fermentation product
(1) Preparation of culture Medium
Seed medium (wt%): 0.5% of peptone; 0.15 percent of magnesium sulfate; dipotassium phosphate 0.3%; 2% of glucose; 0.002% of vitamin B and the balance of water. Mixing the above components at the above ratio, adjusting pH to 5.0, and sterilizing at 116 deg.C for 20min.
Fermentation medium (wt%): 0.2% of peptone; 0.3 percent of ammonium sulfate; 0.15 percent of magnesium sulfate; dipotassium phosphate 0.3%; 3% of glucose; 0.002% of vitamin B and the balance of water. Mixing the above materials at the above ratio, adjusting pH to 6.0, and sterilizing at 116 deg.C for 20min.
(2) Fermentation of
Inoculating spores of Tremella fuciformis berk strains into 300 mL seed culture medium, culturing at 25 ℃ and 200rpm for 3 d to obtain seed liquid. The seed solution was inoculated into a 5L fermenter at 8% (volume percentage, the same applies hereinafter), and the liquid loading in the fermenter was 3.5L. The fermenter speed was 600 rpm, the aeration rate 1 vvm, the temperature 25 ℃. And in the fermentation process, 10 moL/L sodium hydroxide is used for controlling the pH value to 2-4 during fermentation, and the fermentation is finished when no glucose remains in the fermentation liquor, so that the fermentation liquor is obtained.
(3) Post-treatment
Sterilizing the fermentation liquor obtained in the last step at high temperature to inactivate the viable bacteria, centrifuging the sterilized fermentation liquor, collecting the thallus, freeze-drying the thallus, crushing and screening with a 40-mesh screen to obtain freeze-dried powder, namely a tremella spore fermentation product, which can be called tremella polysaccharide. Cell counting detection shows that the content of Tremella spore in the obtained Tremella spore fermented product is 1.32 × 10 10 Per gram.
Example 2 evaluation of safety of raw Material
In order to verify the safety of the fermented product of tremella spores prepared in example 1 as a cosmetic raw material, 30 volunteers were recruited to perform a skin patch test. The subjects were 22-35 years old, 10 male and 20 female. Preparing a tremella spore fermentation product into a 10wt% aqueous solution, quantitatively smearing the aqueous solution on a patch experiment tester, pasting the aqueous solution on the inner side of an upper arm, and observing whether the skin has inflammatory reaction after 24 hours.
The results showed that 2 of 30 volunteers had a slight red and swollen and itching sensation, and the others had negative reactions, indicating that the material has good safety and can be added to cosmetics.
Example 3 raw Material Barrier isolation UV efficacy validation
(1) Experimental sample
5% tremella sugar solution: weighing 5g of tremella spore fermentation product powder prepared in example 1, dissolving in 100 mL water, and stirring uniformly.
5% titanium dioxide solution: 5g of titanium dioxide powder is weighed and dissolved in 100 mL dioctyl carbonate solution and stirred uniformly.
5% zinc oxide solution: 5g of zinc oxide powder is weighed and dissolved in 100 mL dioctyl carbonate solution and stirred uniformly.
4% 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor solution: weighing 4g of 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (obtained from Shanghai Qiu Yan commercial Co., ltd.), dissolving in 100 mL dioctyl carbonate solution, and stirring uniformly.
4% butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane solution: 4g of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (from Shanghai Qiu Yan commercial Co., ltd.) was weighed out and dissolved in 100 mL dioctyl carbonate solution and stirred well.
(2) Experimental methods
The test specimens were spread on a circular quartz plate of thickness 0.5 mm covered with a circular quartz cover plate to ensure uniform thickness. The quartz plate was irradiated with ultraviolet rays of a mixed band of UVA and UVB, the intensity of ultraviolet rays transmitted through the quartz plate was detected by an ultraviolet intensity detector (taiwan chi ST-510), and the ultraviolet blocking rate of the test sample was calculated with the intensity of ultraviolet rays transmitted through the unloaded quartz plate as 100%.
Ultraviolet blocking rate (%) =100% -ultraviolet intensity transmitted by quartz piece coated with experimental sample/ultraviolet intensity transmitted by no-load quartz piece.
(3) Results of the experiment
The results of the experiment are shown in table 1 below:
as can be seen from the above table, the 5% tremella polysaccharide solution has good ultraviolet blocking effect, the ultraviolet blocking rate is more than 85%, and compared with the existing physical and chemical sunscreen agents, the tremella polysaccharide solution has equivalent ultraviolet blocking effect and sunscreen effect, so that the tremella polysaccharide solution can play the effects of blocking ultraviolet rays and isolating sunscreen when being added into a cosmetic formula.
Example 4 comparison of ultraviolet blocking Effect of Tremella spore thallus and Tremella polysaccharide
In order to verify the source of the ultraviolet ray blocking effect of the tremella spore fermentation product, the following experiment is designed:
tremella polysaccharide fermentation broth 1L, which contains both Tremella polysaccharides and Tremella spore thallus, was prepared according to the procedures of examples 1 (1) - (2). Centrifuging the fermentation liquid at 5000 rpm for 20min, collecting all thallus, adding 2L water, stirring at 40 deg.C for 2 h, centrifuging again by the above method, collecting thallus after centrifugation, and retaining supernatant. The above washing process is repeated twice to remove residual tremella polysaccharide on the surface of the thallus. And (4) freeze-drying and crushing the thalli obtained after washing to obtain tremella spore powder.
And (3) combining all the supernatants, concentrating to 1/5 of the original volume by a rotary evaporator, adding NaCl with the mass of 2% of the concentrated supernatant, uniformly stirring, precipitating with 3 volumes of alcohol to separate out polysaccharide, collecting the precipitate, drying and crushing to obtain tremella polysaccharide powder.
Dissolving the tremella spore powder and the tremella polysaccharide powder in water according to the mass concentration of 1%, 2%, 3%, 4% and 5% respectively, and fully dissolving to obtain solutions with different concentrations. The ultraviolet blocking rate of each solution was measured according to the method of example 3, and the results are shown in the following table 2:
from the results in the table above, it can be seen that, at the above concentration of 1-5%, the ultraviolet blocking rate of tremella spores is much higher than tremella polysaccharides; the ultraviolet blocking rate of the tremella spores is obviously improved along with the increase of the concentration of the tremella spores, and the ultraviolet blocking rate of the tremella polysaccharides is not changed along with the change of the concentration. Therefore, the components in the tremella spore fermentation product which have the effects of blocking ultraviolet rays and isolating sun protection are mainly tremella spores, but not tremella polysaccharide. The tremella polysaccharide only plays an auxiliary role in moisturizing, lubricating and film forming, and in tremella spore fermentation products, tremella spores and tremella polysaccharide play a combined role, so that the tremella polysaccharide has dual effects of moisturizing and isolating, and is more suitable for isolating sun-screening products compared with the existing physical and chemical sun-screening agents. The effect of the tremella spores is not disclosed and reported in the prior art, and the invention belongs to the discovery for the first time.
Example 5 sunscreen cream containing Tremella fuciformis sugar (i.e. Tremella fuciformis spore fermentation product)
The formula of the tremella polysaccharide sunscreen cream is as follows (wt%):
3% of C12-15 alcohol benzoate; caprylic triglyceride 3%; 2.5 percent of stearate; 2% of dioctyl carbonate; 0.5% of tocopherol acetate; 5% of the tremella polysaccharide powder of example 1; 6% of glycerol; 0.1% of sodium hyaluronate; 0.1% of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid; 0.2 percent of allantoin; 0.25% of xanthan gum; 0.05% of EDTA disodium; 0.3 percent of essence; 0.4 percent of phenoxyethanol; and supplementing deionized water to 100 percent.
The preparation method comprises the following steps:
1. mixing C12-15 alcohol benzoate, caprylic triglyceride, stearate, dioctyl carbonate and tocopheryl acetate, stirring and heating to 85 ℃, preserving heat for 20min, and filtering to obtain an intermediate product in the phase A.
2. Mixing Tremella polysaccharide powder, glycerol, sodium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, allantoin, xanthan gum, EDTA disodium and phenoxyethanol, homogenizing at 70 deg.C, dissolving, and filtering to obtain intermediate product in phase B.
3. Slowly adding the intermediate product in the phase B into the intermediate product in the phase A under the stirring state, homogenizing at 90 ℃ and 1200 rpm for 10min, removing bubbles in vacuum, cooling to 50 ℃, adding essence, homogenizing at 800 rpm for 10min, removing bubbles in vacuum, and cooling to room temperature to obtain the tremella polysaccharide sunscreen cream finished product.
Example 6 Tremella fuciformis sun cream SPF index test
The tremella polysaccharide sunscreen cream obtained in example 5 was subjected to an SPF index test to determine its sunscreen effect against uv rays in UVB band. 10 volunteers were recruited and the minimal erythema method was used to determine the ratio of the time to erythema for the skin with and without sunscreen applied. Volunteers aged 20-35 years, 10 men and 20 women. The minimum erythema dose of the volunteers was predicted by the pre-exposure method.
The results of the experiment are shown in table 3 below:
statistical calculation is carried out on the data of 10 volunteers in the table above to obtain that the SPF index of the tremella polysaccharide sunscreen cream is 19.1 +/-1.2, and the SPF index of a commercial sunscreen product is 15-50, which indicates that the sunscreen cream has good sunscreen effect and can be added into skin care products for use.
Claims (8)
1. The application of the tremella spores as ultraviolet-isolating components for cosmetics comprises the following preservation numbers: CCTCC M2017271.
2. The white fungus spore fermentation product is used as an application of ultraviolet-isolating components for cosmetics, the white fungus spore fermentation product comprises white fungus spores and white fungus polysaccharide, the white fungus spore fermentation product is obtained by carrying out aftertreatment on fermentation liquor obtained by deep fermentation on the white fungus spores, the aftertreatment comprises the steps of carrying out high-temperature sterilization and centrifugation on the fermentation liquor to obtain thalli, and carrying out freeze drying on the thalli to obtain freeze-dried powder, wherein the preservation number of the white fungus spores is as follows: CCTCC M2017271.
3. Use according to claim 2, characterized in that: the tremella spore fermentation product is prepared by the following method:
(1) Inoculating tremella spores into a seed culture medium, and culturing for 2-5 days at 24-30 ℃ under the condition of 150-250 rpm to obtain seed liquid; the seed culture medium comprises the following components in percentage by weight: peptone 0.3% -0.7%, magnesium sulfate 0.1% -0.3%, dipotassium hydrogen phosphate 0.2% -0.5%, glucose 1% -3%, vitamin B1.001% -0.003%, and the balance of water;
(2) Inoculating the seed solution into a fermentation culture medium according to the inoculation amount of 5-10%, and fermenting for 1-3 days at 25-30 deg.C under stirring speed of 600-800 r/min and ventilation amount of 0.5-2 vvm to obtain fermentation liquid, wherein the pH is maintained at 2-4 during fermentation; the fermentation medium comprises the following components in percentage by weight: peptone 0.1% -0.3%, ammonium sulfate 0.1% -0.3%, magnesium sulfate 0.1% -0.3%, dipotassium hydrogen phosphate 0.1% -0.3%, glucose 1% -4%, vitamin B1.001% -0.003%, and water in balance;
(3) Sterilizing the fermentation liquor at high temperature, centrifuging the sterilized fermentation liquor, collecting thalli, and freeze-drying the collected thalli to obtain the tremella spore fermentation product.
4. A cosmetic, characterized by: comprising the tremella spores as defined in claim 1 or the fermented tremella spores as defined in claim 2 or 3.
5. The cosmetic as set forth in claim 4, wherein: the cosmetic contains 1 × 10 per 100g 10 -1×10 11 And (4) adding tremella spores.
6. The cosmetic according to claim 4, wherein: the cosmetic has ultraviolet shielding effect.
7. The cosmetic according to claim 4, wherein: the cosmetic is lotion, emulsion, cream or makeup base.
8. The cosmetic according to claim 4, wherein: the cosmetic is sunscreen cream.
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CN109431879A (en) * | 2018-11-22 | 2019-03-08 | 天津市天大天福生物技术有限公司 | The application and production technology of a kind of tremella extract in skin care item |
CN109836511A (en) * | 2019-04-03 | 2019-06-04 | 上海应用技术大学 | A method of extracting tremella polysaccharides from fermentation liquid |
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