CN111226003B - Pocket sewing template, automatic sewing equipment and method for manufacturing tool pocket - Google Patents

Pocket sewing template, automatic sewing equipment and method for manufacturing tool pocket Download PDF

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Publication number
CN111226003B
CN111226003B CN201880035766.XA CN201880035766A CN111226003B CN 111226003 B CN111226003 B CN 111226003B CN 201880035766 A CN201880035766 A CN 201880035766A CN 111226003 B CN111226003 B CN 111226003B
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sewing
plate
pocket
tooling
cut piece
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CN201880035766.XA
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CN111226003A (en
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H·弗莱格
K·曼纽尔
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Pfaff Industriesysteme und Maschinen GmbH
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Pfaff Industriesysteme und Maschinen GmbH
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B21/00Sewing machines with devices for automatically controlling movement of work-carrier relative to stitch-forming mechanism in order to obtain particular configuration of seam, e.g. programme-controlled for sewing collars, for attaching pockets
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B33/00Devices incorporated in sewing machines for supplying or removing the work
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B35/00Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B39/00Workpiece carriers

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Abstract

In a sewing template for an automatic sewing machine (1) for sewing a cut piece onto a clothing base fabric or other sewable base fabric, intended to be applied when manufacturing a placed clothing frock pocket by sewing the cut piece together with the clothing base fabric, the pocket sewing template comprising a plate (33) adapted to rest against the cut piece and to press down the cut piece during sewing, the plate (33) being further provided with a circumferential edge region and a groove (32) in the plate as a pre-set sewing needle path on the cut piece, wherein the plate (33) has at least one notch arranged at a certain position of the plate and adapted such that a part of the cut piece is not pressed down during pressing down, the degree of automation of manufacturing and the accuracy of manufacturing can be improved according to the invention in the following way: the plate is provided with at least one accommodation (36, 37, 41, 42) for accommodating the upright corner regions of the cut pieces, and with both sides of the plate (33) abutting to the planar portions of the accommodation (36, 37, 41, 42) for pressing down the portion of at least one hem of the tool folding area. An automatic sewing machine and method for making pockets of tools to be placed on the base fabric of clothes or handbags.

Description

Pocket sewing template, automatic sewing equipment and method for manufacturing tool pocket
Technical Field
The invention relates to a pocket sewing template for an automatic sewing machine for sewing a cut piece onto a clothing base fabric or other sewable base fabric, for application when manufacturing a placed clothing frock pocket by sewing together the cut piece and the clothing base fabric, comprising a plate adapted to rest against the cut piece and to press down the cut piece during sewing, the plate being provided with a circumferential edge region and a groove in the plate acting as a pre-set sewing needle path on the cut piece, wherein the plate has at least one notch arranged at a certain position of the plate and adapted such that a part of the cut piece is not pressed down during pressing down.
Background
The so-called tool pockets are problematic in particular when they are produced automatically on items of clothing. The tooling pockets are generally rectangular or square in shape and are provided with a bellows fold on both side edges into the pocket, which can be used to make the pocket. The receiving volume of such a pocket may be increased due to the stretchability. In the industrial production of clothing, it is common to prefabricate the cut piece of the pocket along with the tooling creases and sew this piece of clothing to make the pocket. Automated sewing of pockets with bellows-like tooling folds on both side edges is therefore particularly difficult and complicated, since the cut piece has to be sewn to the garment base fabric in the folded-over (folded) state of the edge region, but this cut piece is covered by an upper layer of the material part of the tooling folds.
In order to fix these pre-cut panels automatically, they are usually first tensioned into a shape approximately corresponding to the shape of the panels in the stitched condition to be achieved. The cut piece is then folded over in its edge region, i.e. this edge region is folded inwards, on all sides up to the subsequent pocket attachment side, so that the cut edge of the cut piece is covered. In this state, the cut piece in a tensioned state is laid flat on the clothing base fabric and sent to a sewing machine of a sewing apparatus. In one previously known solution of the inventor, the upper layer of the tool fold area of the material section during sewing is then pushed aside by means of a feeder. For this purpose, rectangular recesses are provided in the sewing template, which extend parallel to the two lateral edges over almost the entire length of these lateral edges. The boundary wall of the recess likewise runs parallel to the bottom edge of the pocket perpendicular to the two side edges and thus likewise perpendicular to the bottom edge of the stitching template. The recess must be relatively large because the upper layer of the tooling crimp region of the material portion during sewing must be pushed aside over its entire length. Wherein the two upper layers of the tooling crimp area are pushed in sequence and the sewing machine must be placed in two positions on the sewing template in order to sew the entire U-shaped seam. This solution is also relatively complex due to the need for a feeder.
The inventors have also disclosed a solution for sewing an L-shaped tooling area for a pocket. In this solution, the areas of the side edges and the bottom edge that are to be sewn together with the base fabric of the material are already brought into the bending position and held in this position before sewing and before laying the seam panel flat when tensioning is carried out by hand with the aid of the clamping elements. The stitching template then presses these areas down as the tensioning member is withdrawn from the panel. However, this solution has the disadvantage that it is not possible to sew pockets with multi-sided tooling folds, the volume of such pockets being limited. Furthermore, this solution may be disadvantageous in that there is a tension applied to the area to be sewn during the sewing process, and therefore this area may be moved away from its nominal position. Finally, it may cause the panel under the sewing template to shift from its nominal position on the base fabric of the material, which may cause defects in the seams that need to be made between the panel and the base fabric.
DE 10 2009 042 703 A1 discloses a further method for producing a tool pocket. In this method, the cut pieces in the template of stitching built up as hollow bodies are inflated with blown air so as to lift the fold areas of the tooling of the upper layer, so that the areas of the cut pieces that need to be sewn along the U-shaped grooves of the template of stitching can be contacted by the sewing needles. Due to the blowing in of air, it is likewise necessary to incorporate venting notches in the wall portions of the hollow body which extend obliquely upwards from the cut pieces in order to prevent air stagnation in the hollow body. A possible disadvantage of this solution is that the suture template has a complex shape, including a U-shaped encircling planar portion of the groove for the suture needle and the hollow body connected thereto, which contains the degassing recess into which the oblique wall is inserted, which can only be produced with relatively great expenditure. The need for pressurized air for blowing into hollow shapes and the equipment required for this may also need to be improved.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above, it is an object of the invention to provide a device and a method for producing a tool pocket with the highest possible degree of production automation, which method also has the highest possible production accuracy.
According to the invention, the solution of the invention to achieve the above-mentioned object with a pocket sewing template of the type mentioned at the beginning is that the plate is provided with at least one accommodation for accommodating the standing corner regions of the cut pieces, and that both sides of the plate (sewing template) are provided adjacent to the planar portion of the accommodation for pressing down the portion of at least one hem of the tool folding area. The at least one receptacle should preferably be open over its entire area.
Furthermore, the solution of the invention to achieve the above object is a method and an automatic sewing device according to claims 8 and 11.
In view of this, according to the invention, a pocket sewing template for application in an automatic sewing apparatus is constructed in such a way as to have members for pressing down, during the sewing process, regions of the tooling creases on two mutually adjoining upper side edges of the tooling creases in a curled or rolled state, on which sewing should be performed to fix the cut pieces to the base fabric. Whereas according to the invention the corner regions of these two edge regions of the cut pieces are not pressed down. However, according to the knowledge obtained within the scope of the invention, this at least one corner region should be as free as possible from the loads exerted by the stitching template and likewise free from other forces acting on it from the outside, in particular advantageously free from the action of pressurized air. The respective corner region should therefore be able, by means of a corresponding structural design of the plate of the pocket stitch template, to enable the erection of the respective corner region, which is formed by pressing down the upper part of the mutually adjoining beads of the tool fold, to be erected and erected in as load-free a manner as possible by means of the plate. To this end, according to the invention, at least one receptacle is provided, which may also be referred to as a receptacle element, in which respective corner regions of the upper part of the tooling folds of the two contacting side edges of the pocket to be sewn are provided during sewing. The open receiving element is preferably arranged on the plate element in such a way that the corner regions of the cut pieces or the standing tool folds can be arranged as free from forced guidance as possible and stand in the receiving space. In this way the lower region of the tooling folds lying on the base fabric has as little tendency as possible to be extracted from its preset nominal position for the sewing process. Therefore, the present invention can further improve the manufacturing accuracy and the manufacturing safety.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the at least one receiving element can be designed as a recess of the plate and be arranged in a corner region of at least one plane of the plate, wherein the at least one recess has two boundary walls of the recess which extend from the corner region and which extend in a manner which is not parallel to the side edges of the corner region of the plate. The pocket stitch template should preferably be constructed as a generally planar plate as a whole. In order to be able to stand up the respective corner regions of the tool folds as free of load as possible in accordance with the pressing down of the folded upper tool layer, the shape and size of the respective receiving portion is preferably designed in accordance with the shape and size of the respective self-adjusting standing corner regions of the tool folds. Such at least one, preferably completely open recess in the plate element therefore effectively achieves the object of the invention as a possible embodiment, although it can also be produced with relatively little effort in a plate element, preferably planar overall.
The size of the corresponding recess for the corner region of the tooling fold should advantageously match the desired geometry of the upstanding corner region. Thus, each of the two boundary walls should preferably have a length which corresponds at most to half the length of the two side edges of the corner region to the upper side edge of the plate member corresponding to the opening of the pocket. The boundary wall of the at least one recess for at least one corner region of the cut segment is preferably of a significantly smaller length, for example less than a quarter, particularly preferably less than a fifth, of the side length of the adjoining side edge or length portion of the tooling fold.
By means of the preferably funnel-shaped design of the at least one recess, on the one hand a shape which matches well with the standing corner region can be achieved, and on the other hand the two adjoining length sections of the tool fold can be pressed down up to the corner region boundary. The preferred funnel-shaped design of the recess therefore contributes primarily to increased manufacturing accuracy and operational reliability. The side walls of the recess can be inclined in particular in the narrowest region of the funnel shape, so that the shape of the recess follows the shape of the corner region particularly well. The funnel shape is advantageously arranged and oriented such that, within the U-shape of the recess, the tip of the funnel shape is close to the corner of the U-shape of the recess, and the preferably symmetrical funnel shape expands from this corner in the direction of the interior of the plate element.
By means of a further preferred embodiment of the invention, in which at least one recess for a corner region of a cut piece communicates with a second recess of a plate, preferably of at least substantially rectangular design, the respective corner region of the tooling fold can stand upright particularly well corresponding to the force or stress course in the material of the tooling fold, so that the respective corner region of the tooling fold can be as free of load as possible, so that the tendency of the lower part of the tooling fold to be sewn to be pulled out of its nominal position before or during the sewing process is kept at a very low level. Furthermore, this makes it possible to keep the push-down members for holding the cut pieces arranged below the sewing template free from interference by the sewing template.
The second recess, which is preferably likewise completely open, of the respective receiving element preferably has a much larger area than the first recess, which is preferably trapezoidal. Thus, in an alternative description of a preferred embodiment of the at least one housing element, this housing element has a recess portion which remains substantially rectangular. Wherein the two boundary walls of this notch portion extend at least substantially parallel to one of the corners of the preferably U-shaped groove in the plate member. The corner region, i.e. preferably in the region of the transition from the U-shaped limb of the groove to the other limb of the U, is designed as a further recess section of the receiving element. This further, significantly smaller recess is preferably funnel-shaped, tapering from the rectangular recess part towards the corner end of the U-shape. The end or tip of the funnel shape is preferably arranged directly opposite the corresponding corner of the U-shape formed by the three legs of the groove.
With the aid of the invention, it is possible, firstly, to produce pockets on items of clothing or other sewable base fabrics with little effort in a largely automated sewing process, said pockets (up to the pocket opening side) having in each case one tool fold on several sides. This type of pocket is particularly popular because it has a larger volume than a tooling pleat on only two sides. Such pockets are particularly difficult to manufacture in an automated manner. Thus, in particular in the case of rectangular pockets, as is customary in tooling pockets, it is preferably possible to provide at least two receiving portions (receiving elements) arranged in different corner regions of the plate member for each of the upright corner regions of the panel member, as well as a planar portion of the plate member adjoining the respective receiving portion (receiving element) on both sides, for the two sides at the end of the base of the U-shape, i.e. on the side opposite the pocket opening side, in order to press down a respective one of the hem portions of the tooling fold region. By means of these measures, a multi-sided tool fold (up to the pocket opening side) can be formed in the sewn pocket, which pocket is nevertheless produced in an automated manner with high process stability and with little effort. With this preferred embodiment of the invention, it is possible in particular to secure the cut pieces to the base fabric in a continuous sewing process by completing the U-shaped groove of the panel with the needle of the sewing machine, thus making the pocket in general.
The invention also relates to a method according to claim 11. The method is suitable for manufacturing the tool pocket on the base fabric of clothes or a handbag. In this method, the cut piece is provided with tool folds on at least two edge regions of the cut piece, tensioned in an insertion station of an automatic sewing device and sunk onto a material or other textile or plastic substrate, a sewing template with a groove for a needle path is arranged on the cut piece, and a seam for fixing the cut piece on the substrate is produced by means of a sewing machine and a needle of the sewing machine moving in the groove. According to the invention, in this method, the cut piece is provided with tool folds arranged substantially on three lateral edge regions oriented in a U-shape relative to one another, wherein the cut piece is arranged in an insertion station in such a way that all three tool folds are fixed in the crimped state and a pocket sewing template is laid flat on the cut piece, which pocket sewing template is provided with a substantially U-shaped recess, preferably a straight running temple as a needle path, and in the corner regions of the U there is in each case one receptacle (receptacle element) for one of the corner regions of the crimped tool folds coming into contact, whereby the corner regions are arranged in an upright position without being pressed down during the weaving process so as to project from preferably two receptacles.
Another preferred embodiment relates to an automatic sewing machine equipped with the pocket sewing template of the present invention.
Drawings
Other preferred embodiments of the invention are described in the claims, the description and the drawings.
The invention will be elucidated in detail on the basis of an embodiment which is shown purely schematically in the drawing, in which:
FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a preferred embodiment of an automatic sewing device of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a preferred embodiment of a pocket sheet for an insertion station of an automated sewing apparatus of the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a punch for use in the hemming process;
FIG. 4 is a preferred embodiment of the suture template of the present invention.
Detailed Description
One possible preferred embodiment of the invention has an automatic sewing device 1 shown in fig. 1, which is provided with an embedding station 2, in which the prefabricated cut pieces of the placed tool pockets are tensioned and hemmed and laid flat onto the base fabric of the garment, for example the material part of the trousers to be manufactured, which is also embedded in the embedding station. The cut piece can in particular be prepared and prepared in a known manner on the three side edges in each case by a tool fold on a further sewing device or manually by means of a sewing machine. Furthermore, the preferred automatic sewing device 1 of the invention is also provided with a conveyor 3 which can be used to transfer the cut pieces prepared in the above-described manner towards the sewing machine 4 of the automatic sewing device. The conveyor 3 can be moved back and forth between the insertion station 2 and the sewing machine 4. The sewing machine 4 may be, for example, a conventional double chain stitch sewing machine or a chain stitch sewing machine, which is provided with a material conveying device 5 movable in an X-Y plane. This enables relative movement in the X-Y plane by means of the material feed device 5 between the needle 7 of the sewing machine 4 and the sewing material to sew the base fabric together with the cut pieces for the tool pockets placed. The preferred embodiment of the automatic sewing device 1 can also be provided with a common support plate 6 of the insertion station 2 and of the automatic sewing device 1, which has a surface that is as smooth as possible, so that the material substrate on this surface can be moved by means of the transport device 3 from the insertion station 2 towards the sewing machine 4 of the automatic sewing device.
The insertion station is provided with a pocket sheet 10 as shown in fig. 1 and 2, which can be fixed to the support of the insertion station 2 by means of a holder 11 of the pocket sheet 10. A generally rectangular planar sheet member 12 of the pocket sheet is surrounded by a generally U-shaped clip member 13 secured to the sheet member 12. The clip member 13 thus forms the bottom edge 15 and the two side edges 16, 17 of the pocket sheet 10.
The clamping part 13 also has two stop clamps 18, 19, 20, 21, respectively, which are arranged parallel to one another at a distance in the region of each lateral edge 16, 17. Wherein the length of the inner blocking clips 19, 20 is slightly larger than the outer blocking clips 18, 21. The blocking clips 18-21 are constructed such that the blocking clips 18-21 press elastically against the U-shaped edge portions of the clip member 13. Wherein a respective one of the two outer blocking clips 18, 21 presses against a respective side edge 16a, 17a of the U-shaped edge portion, while the two inner blocking clips 19, 20 press against the bottom edge 15a of the U-shaped edge portion. Between one outer and one inner blocking clip 16, 19 respectively; 20. between 21 there are also arranged blocking springs 23, 24, respectively, which are shorter than these blocking clips. The blocking springs 23, 24 are resiliently pressed against the sheet member 12.
With the automatic sewing device 1, the cut pieces are arranged with their bottom sides, i.e. with their pocket insides, on the sheet member 12 and on the U-shaped edges of the clamping member 13. For this purpose, cut pieces are arranged on the sheet member 12 at the blocking clips 18-21. The panel thus rests with its pocket inside against the sheet element 12 and the edge, while its edge region projects both over the bottom 15a and over the side edges 16a, 17a of the U-shape. The blocking clips 18-21 and the blocking springs 23, 24 rest against the outer side of the cut pieces. The cut piece hits with its pocket opening edge the support 25 blocking the springs 18-21. The upper layer of the tool folds approximately at the level of the two side edges 16a, 17a and the bottom edge 15 of the U-shape can be folded up or folded upwards by the operator around the respective tool fold, so that the upper layer of the two lateral tool folds, which is turned over by approximately 180 °, is held over its entire length by one of the outer blocking springs 18, 21. The upper layer of the tooling pleats may be crimped at 180 ° around the tooling creases along the bottom edge 15 and manually fed under the corner regions of the inner stop springs 19, 20 and retained by these inner stop springs.
In this state, the material projections of the cut pieces projecting over the side edges 16, 17 and the bottom edge 15 can be folded in a known manner by means of a feeder towards the receiving portion of the pocket sheet 10 below the bottom side of the pocket sheet 10 and of the punch 26. The pocket sheet 10 may then be lowered onto and pressed against a base fabric of material pre-positioned on the support plate 6 of the automated sewing device. The base material of the material is placed beforehand in such a way that the cut pieces tensioned onto the pocket sheet 10 are above the position of the base material of the material, where the placed tool pockets should be sewn to the base material of the material.
Subsequently, the sewing template 30 shown in fig. 4 is lowered onto the pocket sheet 10 at a predetermined position so that the cut pieces are between the pocket sheet 10 and the sewing template 30. This allows the pocket sheet 10 to be drawn out of the pocket opening side 31 of the cut piece and subsequently the sewing template 30, together with the material base and the cut piece pressed by it against the support plate 6, to be pushed into its sewing position in the sewing station of the automatic sewing device 1 by means of the conveyor 3 of the automatic sewing device 1. Subsequently, the preferably deflectable sewing machine 4 can be deflected into its sewing position and the sewing process can be started.
Since the cut pieces are arranged on the pocket sheet 10 in the manner described above and the stitching template 30 adopts this arrangement, the U-shaped grooves 32 are in the edge regions of the respective lower layers of the respective tooling folds of the two side and bottom edges of the cut pieces and in the flat panel members 33 of the stitching template on the edge regions. The respective lower layer of the tool folds is thereby preferably completely or at least approximately completely enclosed by the bottom side of the plate 33 and is pressed against the material base fabric during the sewing process only by this bottom side. The two corner regions of the tool fold in the region of the end of the bottom edge 15, on which the side edge regions of the tool fold (in the region of the side edges 16a, 17 a) strike the bottom edge region of the tool fold (in the region of the bottom edge 15 a), are not pressed down by the stitching template 30, but rather extend out of the plate 33, stand upright and can be contacted from above, from the two funnel-shaped open recesses 36, 37 thereof. The upright position of the two corner regions results from the crimping and pressing down of the upper layers of the two side and bottom edge regions of the tooling fold itself. The funnel-shaped opening of the respective recess 36, 37 preferably extends at least substantially along a centre line 38, 39 of the angle formed by the bottom edge 32b and the respective side edge 32a, 32c of the U-shaped groove 32. The funnel-shaped recesses 36, 37, which are closed off in the narrowest position with respect to the corner regions of the U, can be arranged close to, but at a distance from, the corresponding corners of the groove 32 for the needle and are provided with radii or rounded portions. The funnel-shaped opening angle of the recesses 36, 37 can preferably be selected from an angle range of 35 ° to 50 °, preferably at most 45 °. The angular range of the opening angle of the funnel shape can also have other values depending on the respective case, and optionally also extend asymmetrically, but asymmetrically, relative to the center line. In an embodiment, the funnel-shaped interface walls 36a, 36b;37a, 37b have an opening angle of about 45. In principle and independently of the preferred embodiment of the invention, the geometry and size of the recesses 36, 37 should be selected such that the respective corner regions of the two tool folds in contact with one another are arranged in one of the recesses 36, 37, can stand freely and stand upright, although the turned-up upper layer of the tool fold is already pressed down as close as possible to the corner regions.
No further openings or recesses are provided on the two sides of the funnel shape or its boundary wall, so that the plate 33 is pressed here against the upper layer of the crimped tool folds and presses these tool folds down. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, however, the corresponding funnel shape communicates in the region of its greatest width with the other substantially rectangular recesses 41, 42 of the plate 33. The side edges of this rectangular recess 41, 42 can run at least substantially parallel to the adjacent part of the groove 32 for the needle. This rectangular recess 41, 42 can be provided primarily so that the end regions of the blocking springs 18-21 are not loaded by the plate 33 and the removal of the pocket sheet 10 is simplified. For the same reason, two recesses 43, 44 can also be provided in the region of the pocket opening 31, which serve to avoid the pressure exerted by the plate 33 on the blocking springs 23, 24 and to simplify the aforementioned output of the pocket sheet 10 inserted into the station 2.
In order to sew together the base material, which is in the sewing position and surrounded by the sewing template 30, and the cut pieces, and thus to produce the placed tool pocket, together with the tool folds on all edges of the pocket up to the pocket opening, a fabric seam is produced starting from one end 32d of the U-shape of the groove 32 in the region of the pocket opening. Thereby, the sewing template 30 together with the material base and the cut pieces are moved with this end 32d of the groove 32 to below the sewing needle, and the sewing machine 4 starts to make a fabric seam by the arrangement of the sewing needle 7 in the groove 32. By means of the sewing material feed device, a feed is provided for the sewing template 30 according to the U-shaped course of the groove 32, and a fabric seam is produced by means of a sewing machine once and in one piece along the entire groove 32. Wherein the needles travel through the motion of the suture template 30 through opposing feed paths extending from one of the ends 32d, 32e of the U-shape to the other end 32d, 32e of the U-shape. As at the beginning and the beginning of the U-shaped groove or the relative feed path of the needle 7 in the groove 32, it is optionally also possible to produce a catch in the corner region of the groove 32.
After the fabric along the entire run of the U-shaped groove is sewn, the stitch template 30 may be removed. In the case of a pocket which also has to be provided with a closing flap, this closing flap can be sewn on. Otherwise, a tooling pocket with multi-sided tooling pleats is made.
List of reference numerals
1 automatic sewing device 27
2 embedding station 28
3 conveying device 29
4 sewing machine 30 pocket sewing template
5 Material conveying device 31 pocket opening side
6 support plate 32U-shaped groove
7 the side of the U-shape of the needle 32a
Bottom edge of 8 32b U-shape
9 32c U-shaped side
10 pocket sheet 32d U-shaped end
11 holder 32e U-shaped end
12 sheet member 33 plate member
13 clip 36 funnel-shaped recess
14 36a boundary wall
15 bottom edge 36b boundary wall
15a bottom edge 37 funnel-shaped recess
16 side edge 37a boundary wall
16a side 37b boundary wall
17 side edge 38 centre line
17a side 39 centerline
18 blocking other recesses of the clamp 41
19 blocking clip 42 other recesses
20 blocking clip 43 notch
21 blocking clip 44 recess
22
23 blocking spring
24 stop spring
25 bearing part
26 punch

Claims (10)

1. A tooling pocket sewing template for an automatic sewing device for sewing a cut piece onto a garment base fabric or other sewable base fabric, intended to be applied when manufacturing a placed garment tooling pocket by sewing said cut piece together with said garment base fabric, said tooling pocket sewing template comprising a plate adapted to rest on said cut piece and press down said cut piece during sewing, said plate being further provided with a surrounding edge area and a groove in said plate acting as a pre-set sewing needle path on the cut piece, wherein said plate has at least one notch arranged at a certain position of said plate and adapted to leave a portion of said cut piece from being pressed down during pressing down,
it is characterized in that the preparation method is characterized in that,
the plate is provided with at least one accommodating element for accommodating the vertical corner regions of the cut pieces, wherein the accommodating element is arranged in the plane part of the plate so as to press down the edge curling part of the tool folding area;
the at least one receiving element is designed as a recess of the plate which is plane overall and is arranged in a corner region of at least one plane of the plate, wherein the at least one recess has two boundary walls of the recess which extend from the corner region and which extend in a non-parallel manner with respect to the side edges of the corner region of the plate; and is
The at least one receiving element is arranged in the corner region of the U-shaped recess of the plate and in the U-shape of the plate.
2. The tooling pocket sewing template of claim 1, wherein each of the two interface walls has a length corresponding to at most half of the length of the two side edges of the corner region to the upper side edge of the panel corresponding to the pocket opening.
3. The tooling pocket sewing template of any one of claims 1-2, wherein the recess has a funnel-shaped profile.
4. The tooling pocket sewing template of any one of claims 1-2, wherein the at least one notch is in communication with a second notch of the plate in a rectangular design.
5. A tooling pocket sewing template according to any of claims 1-2, characterized in that at least two of the two different upright corner regions of the cut pieces are receiving elements arranged in different corner regions of the plate, and the planar portion of the plate adjoins the respective receiving portion on both sides, so as to press down a respective one of the hem portions of the tooling fold region.
6. Automatic sewing equipment for manufacturing tooling pockets equipped with a sewing machine and with an embedding station for arranging tooling pocket cut pieces above and on a clothing base cloth, wherein the embedding station has tensioning members for tensioning the cut pieces for the tooling pockets provided with one tooling pleat respectively with at least two mutually adjoining side edges, wherein the automatic sewing equipment has a tooling pocket sewing template provided with grooves for the implementation of a relative movement of a sewing needle along the grooves, characterized by a tooling pocket sewing template according to any one or more of claims 1 to 5.
7. Automatic sewing machine according to claim 6, characterized by an insertion station provided with a hold-down member by which the upper layer of the tooling folds of the cut piece on the three side edge regions with tooling folds arranged in a U-shaped opposition can be held down in the crimping position.
8. Automatic sewing machine according to claim 6 or 7, characterized by a blocking spring for the tooling creases arranged on both side regions of the panel and by at least one blocking clip for the tooling creases in the bottom edge region of the panel.
9. A method for producing a placed tool pocket on a base fabric of a piece of clothing or a handbag, in which method a tool fold is provided for a cut piece on at least two edge regions thereof, the cut piece is tensioned in an insertion station of an automatic sewing device and sunk onto a material or other textile or plastic base fabric, a sewing template with at least one groove for the path of a sewing needle of a sewing machine is arranged on the cut piece and a seam for fixing the cut piece on the base fabric is produced by means of a sewing machine and a sewing needle of the sewing machine moving in the groove, characterized in that,
the cutting piece is provided with tool folds which are arranged substantially on three lateral edge regions oriented in a U-shape relative to one another, the cutting piece being arranged in the insertion station in such a way that all three tool folds are fixed in the crimped state and a tool pocket sewing template is laid flat on the cutting piece, the tool pocket sewing template being provided with a substantially U-shaped recess as a sewing path and having in each case one receiving element in a corner region of the U-shape for receiving and arranging one of the corner regions of the crimped tool folds in contact, whereby the corner regions are arranged in an upright position which is not pressed down during the weaving and sewing process.
10. A method according to claim 9, wherein the U-shaped seams for fixing the cut pieces are produced by a relative movement between a needle arranged in the U-shaped groove and the U-shaped groove, wherein the needle produces the U-shaped seams by the relative movement in a single seam pre-forming process.
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WO2018206145A1 (en) 2018-11-15

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