CN111067834A

CN111067834A - Skin care compositions

Info

Publication number: CN111067834A
Application number: CN202010022003.0A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 李睿; A·阿斯塔里那; M·R·罗德里格斯; L·T·劳林二世
Original assignee: Procter and Gamble Co
Current assignee: Procter and Gamble Co
Priority date: 2019-01-10
Filing date: 2020-01-09
Publication date: 2020-04-28

Abstract

A skin care composition comprising an effective amount of carob bean (Ceratonia siliqua) extract, vitamin B3 and retinyl ester provides a synergistic anti-inflammatory effect.

Description

Skin care compositions

Technical Field

Skin care compositions for topical application.

Background

Prostaglandin E2(PGE2) inhibition is a well-known biomarker for anti-inflammatory. In turn, those ingredients with anti-inflammatory properties may provide desirable effects in skin care applications such as anti-aging and skin tone benefits. There is a continuing need to identify ingredients or combinations of ingredients that exhibit PGE2 inhibition that are suitable for skin care applications.

Disclosure of Invention

The present invention is based in part on the following surprising findings of a combination of carob bean (carob) extract, retinyl ester, and niacinamide for a synergistic effect of PGE2 inhibition. Accordingly, one aspect of the present invention provides a skin care composition comprising: extract of carob bean (Ceratonia siliqua); retinyl ester; and a vitamin B3 compound. Another aspect provides a method of treating skin comprising the step of applying a skin care composition according to any preceding claim.

A potential advantage in the compositions described herein is increased conversion of endogenous and exogenous retinoids. In turn, retinoids have been well documented to deliver significant skin benefits (anti-aging, skin tone, etc.). Accordingly, one aspect of the present invention provides a method of increasing the efficacy of endogenous and exogenous retinoids in skin tissue, said method comprising the step of applying a skin care composition to the skin.

Detailed Description

I. Composition comprising a metal oxide and a metal oxide

The present invention relates to compositions and more particularly to compositions for application to the surface of the skin comprising cosmetic compositions. The compositions may be in a wide variety of product forms including, but not limited to, solutions, suspensions, lotions, creams, gels, lotions, stick products, pencil products, sprays, aerosols, ointments, liquid washes and solid sticks, shampoos and hair conditioners, ointments, foams, powders, mousses, shaving creams, wipes, dipsticks, concealers, electronic powder concealers, wound dressings and adhesive bandages, hydrogels, film forming products, facial and skin masks (with or without insoluble pieces), cosmetics such as foundation foundations, eye liners, and eye shadows, and the like. The composition form may be in accordance with the particular dermatologically acceptable carrier selected (if present in the composition).

Carob bean extract

The skin care composition comprises a carob bean (Ceratonia siliqua) extract. The carob seed extract may be, for example, a carob fruit extract, a carob seed extract, a carob leaf extract, or combinations thereofAnd (4) combining. In one non-limiting example, carob fruit extract (INCI name: carob (Ceratonia siliqua) fruit extract; CAS number: 84961-45-5) is made from oblong, non-fleshy, bean-shaped pods grown on carob trees belonging to the family Leguminosae, the Papilionaceae. Without being bound by theory, the carob is rich in galactomannan oligomers, which can be used to provide bioactive substances. The carob bean extract may include other suitable materials, for example, water, thickeners, humectants, solvents, solubilizing agents, and the like. Carob bean extract suitable for use herein is produced by Silab S.A. (France) under the trade name Glyco-Repair^TMPX is commercially produced. This particular extract product contained approximately 94% water, 5% carob fruit extract and 1% other materials. The carob bean extract may be included in the skin care compositions herein in an amount of from 0.0001% to 15%, from 0.0002% to 10%, from 0.001% to 9%, from 0.025% to 8%, from 0.05% to 7%, from 0.05% to 6%, or even from 0.1% to 5%, or from 0.5% to 3% by weight of the total composition.

Vitamin B3

The skin care compositions herein comprise a vitamin B3 compound. As used herein, "vitamin B3 compound" refers to a compound having the formula:

wherein R is-CONH₂(i.e., nicotinamide), -COOH (i.e., nicotinic acid), or-CH₂OH (i.e., nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the foregoing. Vitamin B3 may be included in the skin care compositions herein in an amount of from 0.0001% to 10%, from 0.0002% to 8%, from 0.001% to 7%, from 0.025% to 6%, from 0.01% to 5%, from 0.015% to 3%, or even from 0.07% to 1% by weight of the total composition.

Retinyl esters

The skin care compositions herein comprise a retinyl ester. Non-limiting examples of retinyl esters include retinyl propionate, retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate, retinyl ester, and retinyl linoleate. The preferred retinyl ester is retinol propionate. The propionate form is less irritating to some people and therefore higher levels can generally be used. Further, the propionate form can be more stable over time than some other forms, and thus the skin care composition as a whole can have better shelf-life stability, color change, and the like. The skin care composition may comprise from 0.001% to 10%, preferably from 0.01% to 5%, more preferably from 0.05% to 2%, or from 0.1% to 1%, by weight of the skin care composition, of a retinyl ester.

V. skin tone modulators

Optionally, the skin care composition may further comprise a skin tone modulator in the composition. Skin tone modulators may be included to further improve overall skin tone. When present, the present compositions comprise up to 50%, 40%, 30%, 20%, 10%, 5%, or 3% by weight of the composition of a skin tone modulator. When present, the present compositions comprise at least 0.001%, 0.01%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.5%, or 1%, by weight of the composition, of a skin tone modulator. Suitable ranges include any combination of lower and upper limits, including from 0.1% to 50% by weight of the composition; 0.2% to 20%; or a suitable range of 1% to 10% of a skin tone modulator. Suitable skin tone modulators include, but are not limited to, sugar amines, vitamin B3 compounds, arbutin, deoxyarbutin, L, 3-dihydroxy-4-alkylbenzenes (such as hexylresorcinol, sucrose dilaurate, bakuchiol (4- [ (lE,3S) -3-vinyl-3, 7-dimethyl-1, 6-octadiene ] phenol or monoterpene phenol), pyronin (available from Biotech Marine, France), millet seed extract, octadecanedioic acid, cinnamic acid, ferulic acid, mustard flower extract, methylnicotinamide, oil-soluble licorice extract, folic acid, undecylenic acid (i.e., undecylenic acid), zinc undecylenate, thiamine (vitamin B1) and its hydrochloride, L-tryptophan, sunflower (sunflower) and grape (grape tree) leaf extract, carnosine (i.e., carnosine (drigosine)), (e, Methyl gentisate, 1, 2-hexanediol and 1, 2-octanediol (i.e. the combination sold as Symdiol 68 by Symrise AG, Germany), inositol, undecylenoyl phenylalanine (i.e. sold under the name SEPIWHITE by Seppic, France), kojic acid, hexamidine compounds, salicylic acid, sugar amines, hexamidine compounds, salicylic acid, 1, 3-dihydroxy-4-alkylbenzene such as hexylresorcinol.

Anti-inflammatory agents

Optionally, the compositions may further comprise an anti-inflammatory agent which may be used to improve the appearance of hyperpigmentation resulting from skin inflammation, and more particularly transient inflammatory events of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation including, but not limited to, acne lesions, hair in-growth, scratching, insect bites, surfactant damage, allergens and short-term uv exposure the inflammation-induced hyperpigmentation (including post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) may be treated by incorporating into the compositions of the invention an anti-inflammatory agent, when present, the compositions of the invention comprise up to 20%, 10%, 5%, 3%, or 1% of an anti-inflammatory agent by weight of the composition the compositions of the invention comprise, when present, at least 0.001%, 0.01%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.5%, or 1% of an anti-inflammatory agent by weight of the composition a suitable range including any of the lower and upper limits of a suitable anti-inflammatory agent includes, but not limited to, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents (NSAIDS) including, but not limited to ibuprofen, naproxen, flufenamic acid, fenamic acid, a suitable range including any of the lower and upper limit of the extracts of glycyrrhiza, especially the plant extracts such as glycyrrhiza extract (rubicin), glycyrrhiza extract (rubi) and glycyrrhiza extract (especially from glycyrrhiza extract, glycyrrhiza extract (preferably glycyrrhiza extract).

VII. sunscreen active substances

Optionally, the compositions of the subject invention may further comprise one or more sunscreen actives (or sunscreens) and/or ultraviolet light absorbers. As used herein, "sunscreen active" generally includes sunscreen activityA substance, a sunscreen, and/or an ultraviolet absorber. Sunscreen actives include both sunscreens and physical sunblocks. The sunscreen actives may be organic or inorganic. A particularly suitable sunscreen active is 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate (optionally PARSOL)^TMMCX commercially available), 4' -tert-butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (available as PARSOL)^TM1789 commercially available), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid, behenyl trioleate, 2-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, ethyl-4- (bis (hydroxypropyl)) aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3, 3-diphenylacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl-salicylate, glyceryl p-aminobenzoate, 3, 5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate, menthyl anthranilate, p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid or aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-p-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, 2- (p-dimethylaminophenyl) -5-sulfonic acid benzoxazole, sodium benzoate, potassium benzoate, sodium, Octocrylene, zinc oxide, benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, titanium dioxide, and mixtures thereof.

In one example, the composition may comprise from 1% to 20%, alternatively from 2% to 10%, by weight of the composition, of a sunscreen active. The exact amount will vary depending on the sunscreen active selected and the desired Sun Protection Factor (SPF), which is within the purview of one skilled in the art.

A dermatologically acceptable carrier

The compositions of the present invention may further comprise a dermatologically acceptable carrier (which may be referred to as "carrier") for the composition. As used herein, the phrase "dermatologically acceptable carrier" means that the carrier is suitable for topical application to keratinous tissue, has good aesthetic properties, is compatible with the active in the composition, and does not pose any unreasonable safety or toxicity concerns. In one embodiment, the carrier is present at a level of from 50% to 99%, from 60% to 98%, from 70% to 98%, or from 80% to 95% by weight of the composition.

The carrier may be in various forms. Non-limiting examples include simple solutions (e.g., water, organic solvent, or oil based), emulsions, and solid forms (e.g., gels, sticks, flowable solids, or amorphous materials). In certain embodiments, the dermatologically acceptable carrier is in the form of an emulsion. Emulsions can generally be classified as having a continuous aqueous phase (e.g., oil-in-water and water-in-oil-in-water) or a continuous oil phase (e.g., water-in-oil and oil-in-water-in-oil). The oil phase of the present invention may comprise silicone oils, non-silicone oils (such as hydrocarbon oils, esters, ethers, and the like), and mixtures thereof.

The aqueous phase typically comprises water. However, in other embodiments, the aqueous phase may comprise components other than water, including, but not limited to, water-soluble moisturizers, conditioners, antimicrobials, humectants, and/or other water-soluble skin care actives. In one embodiment, the non-aqueous component of the composition includes a humectant, such as glycerin and/or other polyols. However, it should be recognized that the composition may be substantially (i.e., less than 1% by weight water) or completely anhydrous.

The appropriate carrier is selected to give the desired product form. In addition, the solubility or dispersibility of the components (e.g., extract, sunscreen active, additional components) may determine the form and characteristics of the carrier. In one embodiment, oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions are preferred.

The emulsion may further comprise an emulsifier. The composition can comprise any suitable percentage of emulsifier to sufficiently emulsify the carrier. Suitable weight ranges include from about 0.1% to about 10%, or from about 0.2% to about 5%, by weight of the composition, of the emulsifier. The emulsifier may be nonionic, anionic or cationic. Suitable emulsions can have a wide range of viscosities, depending on the desired product form. The carrier may also comprise a thickening agent to provide a composition with suitable viscosity and rheological characteristics, as is well known in the art.

IX. method of treatment

Various methods of treatment, administration, modulation, or amelioration can utilize the aforementioned compositions. The identification of the aged skin area can be performed on any skin surface of the body. The skin surfaces of most concern are often those that are not normally covered by clothing, such as facial skin surfaces, hand and arm skin surfaces, foot and leg skin surfaces, and neck and chest skin surfaces (e.g., thong over the back). In particular, identification of aged skin regions may be performed on facial skin surfaces including forehead, perioral, chin, periorbital, nose and/or cheek skin surfaces.

The method may include the step of applying the composition to previously identified areas of aged skin or areas where it is desired to prevent the appearance of aged skin. There are many regimens for administering the composition. The composition may be administered at least once daily, twice daily, or more frequently daily during the treatment period. When administered twice daily, the first administration should be separated from the second administration by at least 1 hour to about 12 hours. Typically, the composition may be applied in the morning and/or in the evening just before sleep.

Ideally, the treatment period is long enough to provide an improvement in the appearance of aged skin. The treatment cycle may be at least about 1 week, and in some embodiments, the treatment cycle may last for about 4 weeks, 8 weeks, or 12 weeks. In certain embodiments, the treatment cycle will extend for up to months (i.e., 3-12 months) or years. In one embodiment, the composition is administered at least once daily for a treatment period of at least about 4 weeks, 8 weeks, or 12 weeks. In one embodiment, the composition is administered twice daily for a treatment period of at least about 4 weeks, 8 weeks, or 12 weeks.

The step of applying the composition may be accomplished by topical application. With respect to the administration of the composition, the terms "topical", "local", "topically" mean that the composition is delivered to a target area (e.g., wrinkles around the eye) while minimizing delivery to the skin surface that does not require treatment. The composition may be applied and gently rubbed into the area of aged skin. The form of the composition or dermatologically acceptable carrier should be selected to facilitate topical application. While certain embodiments of the present invention contemplate topical application of the composition to the senile plaque, it is understood that the compositions of the present invention may be more generally or broadly applied to one or more skin surfaces. In some embodiments, the composition may be delivered by a variety of administration devices suitable for topical and comprehensive application. Such applicators may include droppers, applicator sticks, swabs, or any other suitable device. The applicator can be configured to readily apply the composition to signs of aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles, and allow for a dosage of the composition of between 1uL/cm2 to 50uL/cm2 or between 1uL/cm2 to 5uL/cm 2. In another example, the composition is applied simultaneously (i.e., over a period of less than 30 minutes, or more typically less than 5 minutes) to one or more signs of aging, and more typically to one or more facial skin surfaces.

While some of the methods described herein contemplate the application of the compositions of the present invention with an applicator, it is to be understood that an applicator is not necessary and that the compositions of the present invention may also be applied directly by using one of the user's fingers or in other conventional manners. One suitable method of improving the appearance of skin comprises the step of topically applying to the surface of the skin a composition comprising an effective amount of carob bean extract, vitamin B3, and a retinyl ester, wherein the composition is applied for a period of time sufficient to improve the appearance of the skin.

Data of X

Human skin is exposed to solar Ultraviolet (UV) radiation daily. The ultraviolet-induced inflammatory response of the skin leads to premature skin aging (photoaging). Prostaglandin E2(PGE2) is an important inflammatory mediator produced by epidermal keratinocytes of the skin after uv exposure. Increased PGE2 synthesis is associated with skin inflammation and results in redness, swelling, and pain of the skin, which are indicators of skin damage due to excessive uv exposure.

The following method was used to assess the anti-inflammatory effect of the active substances by measuring the production of PGE2 in keratinocytes. Epidermal keratinocytes were cultured until they reached-80% confluence. Niacinamide, retinol propionate, and carob bean extract were added to keratinocytes at the indicated levels, either as single actives or in combination. After 24 hours, cells were exposed to UVB exposure. The treated cells were further cultured overnight and usedPhase time resolved fluorescence (HTRF) technology system (manfacturer)

) The supernatant was harvested for PGE2 quantification. Using Cell timer Glo system

The ATP of the cells is measured. PGE2 release was normalized to ATP. The amount of PGE2 measured at the time of substance addition was compared to the baseline where no chemical was added (medium only).

Table 1 below shows the effect of different test conditions on anti-inflammatory effects determined using the inflammation mediator prostaglandin E2(PGE2) disclosed herein. Comparing examples 2-4 with control 1, each of niacinamide, retinol propionate, and carob bean extract was detected to have a significant PGE2 inhibitory effect. Comparing example 5 with examples 2-4, it was detected that the combination of niacinamide, retinol propionate, and carob bean extract had significantly better PGE2 inhibitory effect than either of the three actives alone, thereby exhibiting a synergistic effect.

TABLE 1

Examples of skin care compositions comprising effective amounts of carob bean extract, vitamin B3, and retinyl esters are provided herein in table 2.

TABLE 2

Another potential advantage in the compositions described herein is that the conversion of endogenous retinoids and exogenous retinoids is increased, then, retinoids have been well demonstrated to deliver significant skin benefits (anti-aging, skin color, etc.) the following method is used to assess cellular retinoid responses from different actives by measuring the generation of fluorescence in RAR α reporter cells RAR α reporter (fluorescent) -HEK293 cell line was used to develop a live cell-based screening model to identify retinoid metabolism promoters, measuring the expression of key genes responsible for retinoid metabolism by quantitative polymerase chain reaction lecithin retinol acyltransferase (phosphatidylcholine-retinol O-acyltransferase), diacylglycerol O-acyltransferase 1/2, Aldo-Keto reductase family 1, member B10, cytochrome P450 family 26 subfamily B member 1 is expressed in HEK293 cell line, the cell line contains a firefly luciferase gene under the control of retinoic acid response elements.

Culturing RAR α reporter gene cells until they reach 80% confluence adding nicotinamide, retinol propionate, and carob bean extract single active or combination thereof to the reporter gene cells at indicated levels after 24 hours of incubation, Bio-Glo^TM(Promega) was added to reporter cells to measure fluorescence. The fluorescence measured with the addition of material was compared to the baseline without the addition of chemical.

Table 3 below shows that the combination of niacinamide and carob bean extract can promote cellular endogenous retinoid and exogenous retinoid (retinol propionate) metabolism/response.

TABLE 3

The dimensions and values disclosed herein are not to be understood as being strictly limited to the exact numerical values recited. Rather, unless otherwise specified, each such dimension is intended to mean both the recited value and a functionally equivalent range surrounding that value. For example, a dimension disclosed as "40 mm" is intended to mean "about 40 mm".

Each document cited herein, including any cross referenced or related patent or patent application and any patent application or patent to which this application claims priority or its benefits, is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety unless expressly excluded or otherwise limited. The citation of any document is not an admission that it is prior art with any disclosure of the invention or the claims herein or that it alone, or in combination with any one or more of the references, teaches, suggests or discloses any such invention. Further, to the extent that any meaning or definition of a term in this document conflicts with any meaning or definition of the same term in a document incorporated by reference, the meaning or definition assigned to that term in this document shall govern.

While particular embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is therefore intended to cover in the appended claims all such changes and modifications that are within the scope of this invention.

Claims

1. A skin care composition comprising:

(a) extract of carob bean (Ceratonia siliqua);

(b) retinyl ester; and

(c) vitamin B3 compound.

2. The skin care composition of claim 1, wherein the carob seed extract comprises from 0.0001% to 15%, preferably from 0.025% to 8%, more preferably from 0.05% to 7%, still more preferably from 0.1% to 5%, by weight of the skin care composition.

3. The skin care composition according to any preceding claims, wherein the vitamin B3 comprises from 0.0001% to 10%, preferably from 0.025% to 6%, more preferably from 0.015% to 3% by weight of the skin care composition.

4. The skin care composition of any preceding claim, wherein the retinyl ester comprises from 0.001% to 10%, preferably from 0.01% to 5%, more preferably from 0.05% to 2%, by weight of the skin care composition.

5. The skin care composition of any preceding claim, wherein the retinyl ester is selected from the group consisting of: retinol propionate, retinol acetate, retinol palmitate, retinol retinoic acid ester, retinol linoleate, and combinations thereof; preferably wherein said retinyl ester comprises retinol propionate.

6. A method of treating skin comprising the step of applying a skin care composition according to any preceding claim.

7. A method of inhibiting the release of PGE2 in skin tissue, the method comprising the step of applying a skin care composition to the skin, wherein the skin care composition is selected from claims 1 to 5.

8. A method of increasing the efficacy of endogenous and exogenous retinoids in skin tissue, said method comprising the step of applying a skin care composition to the skin, wherein said skin care composition is selected from claims 1 to 5.