CN111021061B - After-finishing process of hyaluronic acid real silk fabric - Google Patents
After-finishing process of hyaluronic acid real silk fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN111021061B CN111021061B CN201911348006.7A CN201911348006A CN111021061B CN 111021061 B CN111021061 B CN 111021061B CN 201911348006 A CN201911348006 A CN 201911348006A CN 111021061 B CN111021061 B CN 111021061B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
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- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/01—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
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- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
- D06M13/224—Esters of carboxylic acids; Esters of carbonic acid
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- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/01—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
- D06M15/15—Proteins or derivatives thereof
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- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
- D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M15/564—Polyureas, polyurethanes or other polymers having ureide or urethane links; Precondensation products forming them
- D06M15/568—Reaction products of isocyanates with polyethers
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- D06M23/00—Treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, characterised by the process
- D06M23/12—Processes in which the treating agent is incorporated in microcapsules
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- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
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Abstract
An after-finishing process of a hyaluronic acid real silk fabric belongs to the technical field of real silk after-finishing. The method comprises the following steps: 1) Drying and rolling the real silk fabric, and then padding the real silk fabric with working solution; the working solution comprises a washable finishing agent, a hyaluronic acid finishing agent and water, wherein the bath ratio of the washable finishing agent is 18-25g/L, and the bath ratio of the hyaluronic acid finishing agent is 36-75g/L; the washing-resistant finishing agent and the hyaluronic acid finishing agent are mixed according to the mass ratio of 1:2 to 3; 2) Drying the padded real silk fabric at 120-130 ℃, and tentering and setting to obtain the finished product; the real silk fabric obtained by the after-finishing process of the hyaluronic acid real silk fabric has excellent washability, moisture absorption performance and moisture desorption performance, and keeps the unique color light and hand feeling of the real silk.
Description
Technical Field
An after-finishing process of a hyaluronic acid real silk fabric belongs to the technical field of real silk after-finishing.
Background
The silk fabric is a fabric woven by silk fiber yarns or a fabric formed by interweaving the silk fiber yarns and other fiber yarns. The silk fiber is mainly composed of animal protein, is rich in 18 amino acids necessary for human bodies, has good air permeability and excellent hygroscopicity, is called the second skin of the human body in the reputation of fiber empress, and is widely applied to the fields of clothes, silk towels and bedding.
Hyaluronic acid is one of the most hydrophilic molecules in nature, has a plurality of benefits to human bodies, can improve the nutrition metabolism of skin, makes the skin tender and smooth, removes wrinkles, increases elasticity, prevents aging, is a good transdermal absorption enhancer while preserving moisture, and is called as a 'natural humectant'. Due to the good compatibility of hyaluronic acid, hyaluronic acid can be added into almost any cosmetic, and is widely used in cosmetics such as cream, emulsion, lotion, essence, facial cleanser, bath lotion, hair shampoo, hair conditioner, mousse, lipstick and the like at present. Hyaluronic acid is found in most cells of the human body, but is mainly present in skin tissue at higher concentrations, with almost 50% of hyaluronic acid present in skin tissue in the human body. Hyaluronic acid helps skin to draw a large amount of water, keeps skin smooth and elastic, and keeps skin young and healthy due to the large amount of hyaluronic acid. However, with the increase of people's age and the influence of factors such as nutrition, sunlight and environment, the skin's ability to produce hyaluronic acid is gradually reduced, so the content of hyaluronic acid in the skin is gradually reduced, causing the skin to lose water and wrinkle and lose elasticity, causing the aging of the epidermis.
The existing after-finishing process has the following defects:
firstly, the fabric obtained by the existing finishing process has unsatisfactory moisture retention performance, unsatisfactory moisture absorption performance and moisture desorption performance, and poor moisture retention and skin care effects, so that propaganda is inconsistent with reality.
Secondly, the washability of the fabric obtained by the existing finishing process is not ideal. The hyaluronic acid silk fabric is required to have the effects of moisturizing and skin care and is required to be contacted with the skin, and the fabric contacted with the skin needs to be washed regularly in order to keep sanitation; the hyaluronic acid real silk fabric obtained by the existing finishing process is not ideal in washability, the fabric with high hyaluronic acid content can be obtained after finishing, but after the fabric is purchased and washed by a customer, hyaluronic acid in the fabric is rapidly lost, and the skin care effect is lost. At present, the existing hyaluronic acid fabric is washed for 15 times at most, and the fabric still contains hyaluronic acid, but actually, after the existing hyaluronic acid fabric is washed for 5 times, the content of residual hyaluronic acid in the fabric is less than 20%, and when the fabric is washed for 15 times, the content of hyaluronic acid is extremely low, and the fabric does not have the moisturizing and skin-care effects.
Thirdly, the addition of a hyaluronic acid finishing agent and the addition of a preservative and a defoaming agent in the existing hyaluronic acid finishing process easily causes allergy due to direct contact of the auxiliaries and skin, and silk fibers belong to animal protein.
Disclosure of Invention
The technical problem to be solved by the invention is as follows: the defects of the prior art are overcome, and the after-finishing process of the hyaluronic acid real silk fabric is provided.
The technical scheme adopted by the invention for solving the technical problems is as follows: the after-finishing process of the hyaluronic acid real silk fabric comprises the following steps:
1) Drying and rolling the real silk fabric, and then padding the real silk fabric with working solution; the pH value of the working solution is 4 to 4.5, the working solution comprises weak acid, a washable finishing agent, a hyaluronic acid finishing agent and water, the bath ratio of the washable finishing agent is 18 to 25g/L, and the bath ratio of the hyaluronic acid finishing agent is 36 to 75g/L; the washing-resistant finishing agent and the hyaluronic acid finishing agent are mixed according to the mass ratio of 1:2 to 3;
2) And (3) drying the real silk fabric subjected to padding at 120-140 ℃, and tentering and setting to obtain the finished product.
The washable finishing agent and the hyaluronic acid finishing agent in the step 1) are mixed according to the mass ratio of 1:2.4 to 2.6.
The working solution in the step 1) further comprises a fibroin finishing agent 18 to 45g/L, and the mass ratio of the washable finishing agent to the hyaluronic acid finishing agent to the fibroin finishing agent is 1:2 to 3:1 to 1.8.
The working solution in the step 1) further comprises a silk fibroin finishing agent 21-35g/L, and the mass ratio of the washable finishing agent to the hyaluronic acid finishing agent to the silk fibroin finishing agent is 1:2.4 to 2.6:1.2 to 1.4.
The weak acid is acetic acid or citric acid.
The padding working solution in the step 1) is specifically operated as follows: the speed of the process is 20 to 25m/min, and the temperature of the working solution is 20 to 30 ℃ by adopting a one-dip-one-roll mode.
The temperature of the tentering and setting in the step 2) is 120-140 ℃, and the vehicle speed is 30-35m/min.
The washable finishing agent in the step 1) is a finishing agent TASTEX BAYPRET NANO-PU.
The hyaluronic acid finishing agent in the step 1) is a hyaluronic acid skin care finishing agent TASTEX HYALU 04.
The silk fibroin finishing agent is a silk fibroin skin care finishing agent TASTEX SSU 04.
The description for step 1) is as follows:
the real silk fabric obtained in the step 1) is subjected to the processes of dyeing, soaping and washing, so that the influence of dyeing and soaping processes on the content of hyaluronic acid on the real silk fabric is avoided. Preferably, the apparatus used in step 1) is a finisher.
The applicant dries and rolls the real silk fabric, which can help to reduce the humidity of the real silk fabric and improve the rolling residual rate when padding the working solution; if the water content of the fabric is too high before padding, the hyaluronic acid on the real silk fabric after padding is easy to be unevenly distributed; preferably, the drying temperature in the step 1) is 110-120 ℃.
The rolling residual rate of the padding in the step 1) is 40-100%. Preferably, the padding residual ratio in the step 1) is 60 to 100%, and the high padding residual ratio is beneficial to improving the content of the hyaluronic acid on the real silk fabric. The percent reduction means: the mass of the working solution which can be absorbed by every 100g of the fabric accounts for 100g of the fabric. The calculation formula is: the percent of padding is = (fabric weight after padding-fabric weight before padding)/fabric weight before padding x 100%. The residual ratio is influenced by the material, weaving texture and thickness of the real silk fabric.
The type of the real silk fabric used in the step 1) is a fabric woven by real silk yarns or a fabric formed by interweaving the real silk yarns and cellulose fiber yarns. Preferably, the fabric woven by the real silk yarns is satin, silk and brocade fabric; the fabric formed by interweaving the real silk yarns and the cellulose fiber yarns is a real silk yarn-cotton yarn interweaved fabric or a real silk yarn-tencel yarn interweaved fabric; the fabric woven by the real silk yarns and the fabric interwoven by the real silk yarns and the cellulose fiber yarns are relatively thick, can obtain higher ginning allowance rate, and is suitable for manufacturing clothes and bedding articles.
The method comprises the following steps that 1) a one-dipping-one-rolling mode is adopted, namely the fabric is dipped and rolled once in a groove for containing working solution, and the vehicle speed is 20-25m/min, so that the working efficiency can be effectively improved, the temperature of the working solution is 20-30 ℃, the working solution is dipped and rolled at low vehicle speed, the working solution can be promoted to be uniformly soaked on the silk fabric, and the content of hyaluronic acid on the silk fabric is uniformly distributed.
The bath ratio of the washable finishing agent is 18-25g/L, and the bath ratio of the hyaluronic acid finishing agent is 36-75g/L. The working solution with the concentration can ensure high content of hyaluronic acid and keep unique soft luster and silky hand feeling of the real silk fabric.
The washable finishing agent has the functions of forming a film on the surface of the silk fiber, protecting the silk fiber, and serving as an adhesion bridge between the silk fiber and the hyaluronic acid finishing agent and between hyaluronic acid and the microcapsule. If the addition amount of the washable finishing agent is too small, the adhesion to the hyaluronic acid finishing agent is reduced, and the washing times of the real silk fabric are reduced; if the washable finishing agent is added too much, although the washability is improved, the external film forming of silk fibers is too thick, the luster and the color light of the silk fabric are poor, the hand feeling is hardened and hardened, the wearability is reduced, and particularly the appearance of soft silk fabric such as satin is obvious. The research of the applicant confirms that: the washing-resistant finishing agent and the hyaluronic acid finishing agent are mixed according to the mass ratio of 1:2 to 3, the washing fastness is optimal under the proportion, and the finished silk fabric has no obvious change in color, soft hand feeling and color, especially silk, satin and brocade silk fabrics rich in luster and gorgeous color, and the luster, hand feeling and color aesthetic feeling of the fabric are not damaged by adopting the proportion.
Preferably, the finishing agent TASTEX BAYPRET NANO-PU is a polyether polyurethane polymer which can be automatically crosslinked, is a NANO dispersion liquid with the particle diameter of less than 100nm, can permeate into the fabric, forms a layer of film on the surface of the fiber and among the fibers, and endows the fabric with softness and hyaluronic acid finishing washability. The hyaluronic acid is successfully attached to the silk, and the washability of the fabric is enhanced.
Preferably, the hyaluronic acid finishing agent is hyaluronic acid skin-care finishing agent TASTEX HYALU 04 produced by TANATEX, is a microcapsule finishing agent containing hyaluronic acid, deep sea fish oil and undecylenic acid monoglyceride, and can enable the microcapsule containing hyaluronic acid to be adhered to fibers, break the microcapsule in the friction between the fabric and the skin and slowly release hyaluronic acid.
Preferably, the silk fibroin finishing agent is a silk fibroin skin care finishing agent TASTEX SSU 04 produced by TANATEX, the finishing agent contains silk fibroin polypeptide, deep sea fish oil and undecylenic acid monoglyceride, the finishing agent has a good moisturizing effect, and the ratio of the hyaluronic acid finishing agent silk to the protein finishing agent is 2 to 3: the proportion of 1 to 1.8 is combined, so that the moisture absorption of the fabric can be obviously improved, and the synergistic effect is achieved in the aspect of improving the moisture absorption.
Firstly, in actual wearing, because the macromolecular silk fibroin which is densely arranged in the silk fiber and has tens of thousands of molecular weights can not fall off due to friction with skin, the existing silk fabric which is not finished can not be worn to protect the skin with the silk fibroin. The fabric finished by the process disclosed by the invention can release micromolecule silk protein polypeptide which is easy to be absorbed by skin when being worn due to the addition of the silk protein skin-care finishing agent TASTEX SSU 04, so that the fabric has good skin-care effects of moistening and moisturizing. Secondly, the affinity of the fibroin skin-care finishing agent TASTEX SSU 04 and silk fiber is excellent, the soft hand feeling of the real silk fabric can be given after finishing, and the problem of rough hand feeling of the finished fabric can be improved.
The description for step 2) is as follows:
the silk fabric after padding is dried at a high temperature of 120-140 ℃, so that the washable finishing agent and the hyaluronic acid finishing agent can be firmly attached to the silk fiber, and the washable frequency is improved; preferably, the drying temperature in the step 2) is 125 to 135 ℃.
The tentering setting temperature in the step 2) is 120-140 ℃, and the vehicle speed is 30-35m/min; the tentering setting is to stretch the silk fiber, so that in order to avoid influence of the tentering setting process on the washing fastness of the hyaluronic acid, the applicant adopts high-temperature tentering setting, and the washing fastness finishing agent and the hyaluronic acid finishing agent are attached to the surface of the fiber after stretching setting through high temperature, so that the attachment of the washing fastness finishing agent and the hyaluronic acid finishing agent can be improved again through the high temperature during tentering setting. Preferably, the tenter setting temperature in the step 2) is 125 ℃ to 130 ℃. Before sale, the real silk fabric obtained in the step 2) is not washed with water, so that the washability of the fabric is not influenced. Preferably, the equipment used in step 2) is a tenter setting machine.
Compared with the prior art, the finishing process of the hyaluronic acid real silk fabric and the preparation method thereof have the beneficial effects that:
1. the fabric obtained by the finishing process has good moisture absorption performance and moisture desorption performance, and has good moisture retention and skin care effects. Firstly, the applicant adds a hyaluronic acid finishing agent in the formula, and the hyaluronic acid finishing agent has a microcapsule structure, can slowly and durably release hyaluronic acid, and has a good skin care effect. Secondly, the applicant finds in research that after the silk protein finishing agent and the hyaluronic acid finishing agent are combined, the synergistic effect can be achieved, and the finished fabric has good moisture absorption and moisture desorption performances.
2. The hyaluronic acid real silk fabric finishing process has the advantages that the obtained real silk fabric is good in washing fastness and can resist washing for more than 50 times. Firstly, the finishing agent BAYPRET NANO-PU has good permeability and adhesiveness, and can effectively adhere hyaluronic acid to silk fibers; and the finishing agent BAYPRET NANO-PU can be used as an adhesive between hyaluronic acid finishing agents, and effectively slows down the falling-off rate of hyaluronic acid in washing. Secondly, the finishing agent BAYPRET NANO-PU has good intermiscibility with the hyaluronic acid finishing agent, does not generate precipitation after co-bathing, and can save water for finishing. And thirdly, drying at high temperature in the step 2), so that the washable finishing agent and the hyaluronic acid finishing agent are closely attached to the surface of the silk fiber, and the washable frequency is prolonged. When the washing times of the fabric finished by the process of the invention reach 50 times, the fabric still has high content of hyaluronic acid, still can play a role in moisturizing and skin care, and is suitable for making clothes and bedclothes which are in contact with the skin; the fabric finished by the process can still achieve the moisturizing and skin-care effects within 2 years according to the frequency of washing for 1 to 2 times per week.
3. The finishing process of the hyaluronic acid silk fabric does not damage the fabric, and the obtained silk fabric can still keep the unique luster and soft hand feeling of silk. Firstly, the finishing agent BAYPRET NANO-PU has good film forming property and can form a film on the surface of the silk fiber, so that the glossiness and the softness of the silk fiber can be effectively protected. Secondly, the finishing agent BAYPRET NANO-PU is a high-end finishing agent of NANO-scale dispersion and self-crosslinking polyether polyurethane type, no auxiliary agents such as preservatives and antifoaming agents are needed to be added, the finishing agent is more environment-friendly, and the real silk fabric obtained by finishing can be contacted with the skin of a consumer more securely without worrying about allergy and other damage to the skin.
4. The process of the invention does not add preservative and antifoaming agent irritant auxiliary agent, and the fabric has small irritation to skin and is not easy to cause allergy.
Detailed Description
Examples 1 to 9 are specific examples of the finishing process of the hyaluronic acid real silk fabric, wherein examples 1 and 7 are the best modes.
The equipment used in the step 1) is a finishing machine which is conventional commercial equipment, and the working solution is placed in a liquid tank of the finishing machine.
The equipment used in the step 2) is a tenter setting machine.
Auxiliaries used in examples and comparative examples: the washable finish is a finish manufactured by TANATEX BAYPRET NANO-PU. The hyaluronic acid finishing agent is hyaluronic acid skin care finishing agent TASTEX HYALU 04 produced by TANATEX corporation. The silk protein finishing agent is a silk protein skin care finishing agent TASTEX SSU 04 produced by TANATEX corporation.
Example 1
The fabric of the embodiment is as follows: the crepe satin plain is pure silk plain, the gram weight is 84.3 g/square meter, and the crepe satin plain is off-white.
The after-finishing process comprises the following steps:
1) Drying and rolling a real silk fabric at 114 to 116 ℃, and then padding a working solution with a rolling residual rate of 70%, wherein the padding working solution adopts a one-padding one-rolling mode, the vehicle speed is 20 to 25m/min, and the temperature of the working solution is 25 to 27 ℃;
the pH value of the working solution is 4, the working solution comprises acetic acid, a washable finishing agent, a hyaluronic acid finishing agent and water, the bath ratio of the washable finishing agent is 20g/L, and the bath ratio of the hyaluronic acid finishing agent is 50g/L; wherein the washable finishing agent and the hyaluronic acid finishing agent are mixed according to the mass ratio of 1:2.5 adding;
2) Drying the padded real silk fabric at 125-128 ℃; and then, tentering and shaping the real silk fabric at 125-130 ℃, wherein the speed is 30-35m/min, so as to obtain the silk fabric.
Example 2
The fabric of the embodiment is as follows: crepe satin plain silk with a gram weight of 91.6 g/square meter and iron gray.
The after-finishing process comprises the following steps:
1) Drying and rolling the silk fabric at 112-114 ℃, then padding a working solution with a rolling residual rate of 75%, wherein the padding working solution adopts a one-padding-one-padding mode, the speed is 20-25m/min, and the temperature of the working solution is 20-23 ℃;
the pH value of the working solution is 4.3, the working solution comprises acetic acid, a washable finishing agent, a hyaluronic acid finishing agent and water, the bath ratio of the washable finishing agent is 18g/L, and the bath ratio of the hyaluronic acid finishing agent is 43.2g/L; wherein the washable finishing agent and the hyaluronic acid finishing agent are mixed according to the mass ratio of 1:2.4 adding;
2) Drying the padded real silk fabric at 128 to 130 ℃; and then, tentering and shaping the real silk fabric at 130-135 ℃, wherein the speed is 30-35m/min, and the silk fabric is obtained.
Example 3
The fabric of the embodiment is plain crepe satin silk with the gram weight of 95.6 g/square meter and beige.
The after-finishing process comprises the following steps:
1) Drying and rolling the silk fabric at 110-112 ℃, then padding working liquid with a residual rolling rate of 77%, wherein the padding working liquid adopts a one-padding-one-rolling mode, the speed is 20-25m/min, and the temperature of the working liquid is 27-30 ℃;
the pH value of the working solution is 4.1, the working solution comprises acetic acid, a washable finishing agent, a hyaluronic acid finishing agent and water, the bath ratio of the washable finishing agent is 22g/L, and the bath ratio of the hyaluronic acid finishing agent is 57.2g/L; wherein the washable finishing agent and the hyaluronic acid finishing agent are mixed according to the mass ratio of 1:2.6 adding;
2) Drying the real silk fabric subjected to padding at 126-128 ℃; and then, tentering and shaping the real silk fabric at 130-135 ℃, wherein the speed is 30-35m/min, and the silk fabric is obtained.
Example 4
The fabric of the embodiment is real silk mulberry satin, jacquard, the gram weight of 131.7 g/square meter and iron gray.
The after-finishing process comprises the following steps:
1) Drying and rolling the silk fabric at 118-120 ℃, then padding a working solution with a rolling residual rate of 90%, wherein the padding working solution adopts a one-padding-one-rolling mode, the speed is 20-25m/min, and the temperature of the working solution is 25-27 ℃;
the pH value of the working solution is 4.5, the working solution comprises citric acid, a washable finishing agent, a hyaluronic acid finishing agent and water, the bath ratio of the washable finishing agent is 18g/L, and the bath ratio of the hyaluronic acid finishing agent is 36g/L; wherein the washable finishing agent and the hyaluronic acid finishing agent are mixed according to the mass ratio of 1:2, adding;
2) Drying the padded real silk fabric at 120-123 ℃; and then, tentering and shaping the real silk fabric at 125-135 ℃, wherein the speed is 30-35m/min, and the silk fabric is obtained.
Example 5
The fabric of the embodiment is real silk mulberry satin, plain weave, the gram weight of 118.5 g/square meter and light blue.
The after-finishing process comprises the following steps:
1) Drying and rolling the silk fabric at 116-118 ℃, then padding a working solution with a rolling residual rate of 88%, wherein the padding working solution adopts a one-padding-one-padding mode, the speed is 20-25m/min, and the temperature of the working solution is 20-30 ℃;
the pH value of the working solution is 4.2, the working solution comprises citric acid, a washable finishing agent, a hyaluronic acid finishing agent and water, the bath ratio of the washable finishing agent is 25g/L, and the bath ratio of the hyaluronic acid finishing agent is 75g/L (the weight ratio of the washable finishing agent to the hyaluronic acid finishing agent is 1: 3);
2) Drying the silk fabric subjected to padding at the temperature of 123-125 ℃; and then, tentering and setting the silk fabric at 125-135 ℃, wherein the speed is 30-35m/min, so as to obtain the silk fabric.
Example 6
The real silk fabric and the process of the embodiment are the same as those of the embodiment 1, and the difference is that:
step 1), the working solution also comprises a silk fibroin finishing agent;
the pH value of the working solution is 4, the working solution comprises acetic acid, a washable finishing agent, a hyaluronic acid finishing agent and water, the bath ratio of the washable finishing agent is 20g/L, the bath ratio of the hyaluronic acid finishing agent is 50g/L, and the bath ratio of the silk protein finishing agent is 24g/L (the mass ratio of the washable finishing agent to the hyaluronic acid finishing agent to the silk protein finishing agent is 1.
Example 7
The fabric and the process of the embodiment are the same as those of the embodiment 1, and the difference is that:
step 1), the working solution also comprises a silk fibroin finishing agent;
the pH value of the working solution is 4, the working solution comprises acetic acid, a washable finishing agent, a hyaluronic acid finishing agent and water, the bath ratio of the washable finishing agent is 20g/L, the bath ratio of the hyaluronic acid finishing agent is 50g/L, and the bath ratio of the silk protein finishing agent is 28g/L (the mass ratio of the washable finishing agent to the hyaluronic acid finishing agent to the silk protein finishing agent is 1.
Example 8
The fabric and the process of the embodiment are the same as those of the embodiment 4, and the difference is that:
step 1), the working solution also comprises a silk fibroin finishing agent;
the pH value of the working solution is 4.5, the working solution comprises citric acid, a washable finishing agent, a hyaluronic acid finishing agent and water, the bath ratio of the washable finishing agent is 18g/L, the bath ratio of the hyaluronic acid finishing agent is 36g/L, and the mass ratio of the silk protein finishing agent is 32.4g/L (the mass ratio of the washable finishing agent to the hyaluronic acid finishing agent to the silk protein finishing agent is 1.
Example 9
The real silk fabric and the process of the embodiment are the same as those of the embodiment 5, and the difference is that:
step 1), the working solution also comprises a silk fibroin finishing agent;
the pH value of the working solution is 4.2, the working solution comprises citric acid, a washing-resistant finishing agent, a hyaluronic acid finishing agent and water, the bath ratio of the washing-resistant finishing agent is 25g/L, the bath ratio of the hyaluronic acid finishing agent is 75g/L, and the mass ratio of the silk protein finishing agent is 25g/L (1.
Comparative example 1
The fabric and process of this comparative example are the same as example 1 except that: step 1) no washable finish was added.
Comparative example 2
The fabric and process of this comparative example are the same as example 1 except that: the bath ratio of the washable finishing agent in the working solution used in the step 1) is 10g/L, and the bath ratio of the hyaluronic acid finishing agent is 50g/L.
Comparative example 3
The fabric and process of this comparative example are the same as example 1 except that: the bath ratio of the washable finishing agent in the working solution used in the step 1) is 35g/L, and the bath ratio of the hyaluronic acid finishing agent is 50g/L.
Comparative example 4
The fabric and the process of the comparative example are the same as those of example 1, and the differences are as follows: in the step 2), the drying temperature is 100 to 105 ℃, and the tentering setting temperature is 100 to 105 ℃.
Comparative example 5
The fabric and process of this comparative example are the same as example 7 except that:
the pH value of the working solution used in the step 1) is 4, the working solution comprises acetic acid, a washable finishing agent, a hyaluronic acid finishing agent and water, the bath ratio of the washable finishing agent is 20g/L, the bath ratio of the hyaluronic acid finishing agent is 50g/L, and the bath ratio of the silk protein finishing agent is 50g/L (the mass ratio of the washable finishing agent to the hyaluronic acid finishing agent to the silk protein finishing agent is 1:2.5: 2.5).
Comparative example 6
The fabric and process of this comparative example are the same as example 7 except that:
the pH value of the working solution used in the step 1) is 4, the working solution comprises acetic acid, a washable finishing agent, a hyaluronic acid finishing agent and water, the bath ratio of the washable finishing agent is 20g/L, the bath ratio of the hyaluronic acid finishing agent is 50g/L, and the bath ratio of the silk protein finishing agent is 10g/L (the mass ratio of the washable finishing agent to the hyaluronic acid finishing agent to the silk protein finishing agent is 1:2.5: 0.5).
Performance testing
1. Basic performance test of fabric
And simulating a factory goods inspection process, and inspecting the fabric by adopting a method of manually inspecting goods by a goods inspector.
The goods inspection method comprises the following steps:
a) Reserving the original silk fabric which is not processed in the step 1) -2) by a goods inspector as a comparison cloth sample, and carrying out comparison inspection on the comparison cloth sample and the finished fabric; the gloss refers to left and right alternate visual inspection, and the unique soft light reflection is compared; the color light refers to the left and right alternate visual inspection and contrast of color deviation degree; the softness refers to the softness degree of the fabric which is touched by hands and is compared with the softness degree of the fabric alternately from side to side;
b) Randomly checking each roll of cloth for 20 times, taking the area of 30 multiplied by 30cm as a unit check area for each check, comparing and checking the differences of material gloss, soft hand feeling and chromatic light between the fabric and the untreated original silk fabric in the unit check area, taking an average value of the grading result, and recording the average value into a table 1; the higher the score data is, the better the fabric performance is, and the scoring standard is as follows:
1 minute-the luster, soft hand feeling or color light are obviously inferior to those of the original silk fabric, which has obvious difference influencing sales, and basically presents two products;
2 min, namely the luster, soft hand feeling or color light are not as same as the original silk fabric, and the difference is easy to distinguish and needs to be reduced;
3 minutes, namely the luster, soft hand feeling or color light are slightly inferior to those of the original real silk fabric, and the difference is recognized carefully without reducing the grade;
4 minutes-the luster, soft hand feeling or color light is slightly different from the original real silk fabric, and the like is not needed.
TABLE 1 basic performance test of the fabrics in examples 1 to 9
TABLE 2 basic performance test of fabrics in comparative examples 1 to 4
2. Moisture absorption and moisture desorption test
The fabrics before and after finishing in the examples and the fabrics before and after finishing in the comparative examples were subjected to moisture absorption and moisture release tests, respectively.
The moisture absorption condition is that the temperature is 23.1 ℃ and the relative humidity is 95 percent; the humidity releasing condition is that the temperature is 23.0 ℃, and the relative humidity is 20%; for the fabrics finished in the examples and the comparative examples, the moisture content is recorded once every 15 minutes (min), and the total moisture content is measured for 120 min; for the face fabric without the finish of the examples and comparative examples, only the water content at 120min, i.e., M2, was tested. The results are reported in the following table.
Wherein, the delta percent is the relative change percentage of the moisture content difference of the fabric after 120min moisture absorption (or moisture release). The larger the delta% value is, the more obvious the change of the moisture absorption (or moisture release) of the fabric by the real finishing process is proved, and the better the finishing effect is.
The calculation formula Δ% = (M1-M2)/M2 × 100%;
m1 is the fabric finished by the embodiment or the comparative example, and the moisture content is 120min after moisture absorption (or moisture release) treatment;
m2 is the fabric which is not finished by the examples or the comparative examples, and the moisture content is 120min after moisture absorption (or moisture release) treatment.
TABLE 3 moisture absorption test of fabrics in examples 1 to 9 and comparative examples 1 to 4
TABLE 4 moisture release test of fabrics in examples 1 to 9 and comparative examples 1 to 4
As can be seen from the table above:
in the examples 1, 6 to 7 and the comparative examples 5 to 6, the used fabrics and the process are the same, and the added hyaluronic acid finishing agent is the same in dosage. Compared with the examples 6 to 7, the silk fibroin finishing agent used in the comparative example 5 has higher hygroscopicity and moisture desorption, but the application finds that the fabric in the comparative example 5 has the problems of yellowing and larger color light deviation, and proves that the addition amount of the silk fibroin finishing agent is limited, and the problem of easy yellowing exists when the light color fabric is excessively finished. Comparative example 6 the amount of the silk fibroin finishing agent used was less than that of example 1, and comparative example 6 was less effective than example 1, although it was able to improve moisture absorption and moisture desorption.
The silk protein finishing agent is added in each of examples 6 to 7 and comparative examples 5 to 6, wherein the hygroscopicity and the moisture release of the examples 6 to 7 are obviously improved, and the fact that the hyaluronic acid finishing agent and the silk protein finishing agent are added simultaneously is proved to have a synergistic effect on improvement of the hygroscopicity and the moisture release of the fabric.
3. Simulated home laundering test
The experiment is to simulate the household washing mode after the purchase of a customer, carry out the washing experiment and test the washing resistance times of the hyaluronic acid component contained in the fabric. Reference standard GBT 8629-2017 textile test household washing and drying procedure.
The laboratory instruments and detergents used:
and (3) washing agent: the product is produced in a constant manner, and the silver silk, hair silk and silk detergent is a commercially available product with the specification of 300 ml/bottle;
rinsing equipment: XQS120-BZ866 of a Haier pulsator washing machine;
ultraviolet-visible spectrophotometer (UV-VIS): shanghai Yuan analysis Instrument Co., ltd is a UV-8000A type double-beam ultraviolet visible spectrophotometer.
Each washing step was as follows:
1) Cutting the real silk fabric into cloth samples of 20 multiplied by 20cm, and counting 30 blocks; pouring the detergent into water, and preparing washing liquor according to the concentration of 5 ml/L;
2) And (3) washing process: soaking the cloth sample in the same washing liquid, and stirring and rinsing for 5 minutes; taking out the cloth sample, adding clean water for rinsing, rinsing and stirring for 5 minutes each time, and rinsing for three times after water is changed for rinsing each time; taking out the cloth sample, putting the cloth sample into a clothes drying basket, and spreading and drying the cloth sample in the dark at room temperature;
3) Repeating the washing process in the step 2), and finally obtaining cloth samples (3 cloth samples are reserved for each washing time) which are rinsed for 5 times, 10 times, 15 times, 20 times, 25 times, 30 times, 35 times, 40 times, 45 times and 50 times respectively;
4) Drying, crushing, grinding and sieving the cloth sample to prepare powder samples (3 parts of each powder sample for washing times), and detecting the content (mg/kg) of hyaluronic acid in each powder sample for washing times by adopting an ultraviolet-visible spectrophotometer; the powder samples were tested 3 times for each number of washes and the average value was reported in table 5. And when the content of the hyaluronic acid of the sample with the current washing times is lower than 20mg/kg, the hyaluronic acid basically has no moisturizing and skin-care effects, and the detection of the subsequent washing times cloth sample is stopped.
TABLE 5 number of washing resistance tests
TABLE 6 number of washing-resistant tests
As can be seen from the above table:
the fabrics finished in examples 1 to 9 have no obvious change in gloss and shade compared with the fabrics before finishing, and keep soft hand feeling before finishing. The fabrics in the examples 1 to 9 still have high content of hyaluronic acid when the washing times reach 50 times, and still can achieve the moisturizing and skin-care effects.
Comparative example 1 no washfastness finish was added, the number of washfastness times being significantly lower than example 1; comparative example 2 the bath ratio of the washable finishing agent is less than that of example 1, and although the gloss, the hand feeling and the color light of the obtained silk fabric are not greatly different from those of example 1, the washing times are obviously lower than that of example 1; comparative example 3 the dosage proportion of the washable finishing agent is larger than that of example 1, the bath ratio exceeds the protection range of the invention, the obtained silk fabric has better washability than that of example 1, but the gloss and color expression of the silk fabric is not ideal, the hand feeling is unsmooth, and the silk fabric is slightly hardened, which proves that when the dosage of the washable finishing agent is too much, the washability is improved, but the improvement range is not large, and the wearability of the silk fabric is also influenced; comparative example 4 the drying temperature in step 2) is obviously lower than that in example 1, the gloss, hand feeling and color light of the obtained fabric are not obviously different and are slightly lower than those in example 1, but do not need to be reduced; the number of launderings of the real silk face fabric obtained in comparative example 4 is significantly lower than that of example 1, which the applicant believes is due to the fact that the high temperature drying adopted in step 2) of example 1 causes the launder-resistant finish and the hyaluronic acid finish to be more closely attached to the silk fibers, thereby enhancing the launderability of the face fabric of example 1. The fabric obtained by adding the silk protein finishing agent with higher content in the comparative example 5 and adding the silk protein finishing agent with lower content in the comparative example 6 has slightly better washing fastness than the fabric obtained in the example 1, which proves that the washing fastness of hyaluronic acid is not influenced by the addition of the silk protein finishing agent, and even the washing fastness of hyaluronic acid is slightly improved.
While the invention has been described with reference to a preferred embodiment, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various changes may be made and equivalents may be substituted for elements thereof without departing from the scope of the invention. However, any simple modification, equivalent change and modification of the above embodiments according to the technical spirit of the present invention may be made without departing from the technical spirit of the present invention.
Claims (4)
1. The after-finishing process of the hyaluronic acid real silk fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps of:
1) Drying and rolling the real silk fabric, and then padding the real silk fabric with working solution; the pH value of the working solution is 4 to 4.5, the working solution comprises weak acid, washable finishing agent, hyaluronic acid finishing agent and water, the bath ratio of the washable finishing agent is 18 to 25g/L, and the bath ratio of the hyaluronic acid finishing agent is 36 to 75g/L; the washing-resistant finishing agent and the hyaluronic acid finishing agent are mixed according to the mass ratio of 1:2 to 3;
2) Drying the silk fabric subjected to padding at 120-140 ℃, and tentering and setting to obtain the silk fabric;
the working solution in the step 1) further comprises 18-45g/L of silk protein finishing agent, and the mass ratio of the washable finishing agent to the hyaluronic acid finishing agent to the silk protein finishing agent is 1:2 to 3:1 to 1.8;
the temperature of the tentering and setting in the step 2) is 120-140 ℃, and the vehicle speed is 30-35m/min;
the washable finishing agent in the step 1) is a finishing agent TASTEX BAYPRET NANO-PU;
the hyaluronic acid finishing agent in the step 1) is a hyaluronic acid skin care finishing agent TASTEX HYALU 04;
the silk fibroin finishing agent is a silk fibroin skin care finishing agent TASTEX SSU 04.
2. The after-finishing process of the hyaluronic acid real silk fabric according to claim 1, which is characterized in that: the working solution in the step 1) further comprises a silk fibroin finishing agent 21-35g/L, and the mass ratio of the washable finishing agent to the hyaluronic acid finishing agent to the silk fibroin finishing agent is 1:2.4 to 2.6:1.2 to 1.4.
3. The after-finishing process of the hyaluronic acid real silk fabric according to claim 1, which is characterized in that: the weak acid is acetic acid or citric acid.
4. The after-finishing process of the hyaluronic acid real silk fabric according to claim 1, which is characterized in that: the padding working solution in the step 1) is specifically operated as follows: the speed of the process is 20 to 25m/min, and the temperature of the working solution is 20 to 30 ℃ by adopting a one-dip-one-roll mode.
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