CN1109740A - 用有效量的活性物质来治疗混合皮肤 - Google Patents
用有效量的活性物质来治疗混合皮肤 Download PDFInfo
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- CN1109740A CN1109740A CN94116453A CN94116453A CN1109740A CN 1109740 A CN1109740 A CN 1109740A CN 94116453 A CN94116453 A CN 94116453A CN 94116453 A CN94116453 A CN 94116453A CN 1109740 A CN1109740 A CN 1109740A
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- Prior art keywords
- lipase
- oil
- skin
- softening
- activity
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Abstract
在合适的化妆品基质中,用有效量的、同时具有
软化和脂肪酶抑制活性的一种物质,或者将有效量
的、只具有软化作用而无脂肪酶抑制活性的一种物质
和另一种无软化作用但却有脂肪酶抑制活性的物质
结合起来使用,来治疗混合皮肤。
Description
本发明涉及用有效量的活性物质来治疗混合皮肤。
在美容学上,“混合皮肤”是指人们脸上的皮肤具有双重特性,也就是说有一部分为油性区另一部分为干燥区。
这种双重特性本质上是由于皮脂腺的分布引起的。前额、鼻子和下巴代表了油性区,在这些区域,每平方厘米皮肤有900个皮脂腺。面颊代表了干燥区,每平方米仅有400个皮脂腺。
摆动在化妆品研究人员面前的难题是:如何改善皮肤总体美观性,以开发出一种适应皮肤的干燥和油性部分的产品。
已知最新的治疗混合皮肤的产品是Biotherm的BIOPURR和Jeanne Gatineau的MODERACTIVER。这些产品的基本作用是吸收多余的皮脂,因此更多地是特异地作用于油性区。但与混合皮肤有关的问题并没有被以上所提到的产品解决。
已知皮肤表面的皮脂是一些脂类的混合物,它们是由两种渠道合成的:皮脂腺和表皮。
这些脂类的功能从作为简单的增塑剂,一直到可作为控制水份保留和接收特性、局部使用物质的通透性差异的表皮屏障以及角质层粘附和脱屑。
3%的表面脂类是由表皮分泌的,与此同时,97%是由皮脂腺分泌的。
另外,一个人的昼夜节律、年龄以及性别都影响皮脂腺的分泌水平。
因此,在13岁至20岁之间,皮脂腺的分泌水平增至3倍,然后逐渐降低。
具有正常皮肤的妇女,其皮脂腺的皮脂分泌量是0.75至1微克/平方厘米/分钟,而对于一个有混合皮肤的妇女来说,其油性区皮脂分泌量比正常水平增加了50%,而干燥区皮脂分泌量则急剧下降。
同样,对于男性来说,正常皮肤的皮脂分泌量是1至1.5微克/平方厘米/分钟,而对于拥有混合皮肤的男性来说,其油性区皮脂分泌量比正常水平增加了65%,而干燥区皮脂分泌量则大为减少。
事实上,皮脂,一种由皮脂腺分泌的液体物质,是皮肤表面脂类的主要来源。
皮脂由31%的甘油三酯、5%的甘油二酯、24%的游离脂肪酸、15%的鲨烯以及25%的蜡组成。
因此,两方面的情况形成了混合皮肤的特性。
对于干燥区来说,甘油三酯的分泌大为减少,在最严重的干燥病情况下,甘油三酯的分泌甚至倾向于停止。
对于油性区来说,甘油三酯的分泌大量增加。不幸的是,这些甘油三酯并不会保持在它们的原有状态,而是浓酶的作用下,逐渐降解为甘油二酯和甘油单酯,最后形成游离脂肪酸。正是游离脂肪酸带来了众多混合皮肤的紊乱和缺陷(光亮和油腻的外表,皮肤表面常常感到不适,皮肤容易发生炎症反应)。
这些酶,我们称之为脂肪酶,主要是由皮肤菌丛产生的。这些菌丛有:初油酸菌粉刺(Propionibacterium acnes),表面葡萄球菌(Staphylococcus epidermidis),初油酸菌颗粒(Propionibacterium granulosum)。
由于目前还缺乏限制皮脂产量和调节激素机制的有效方法,本发明的作者通过同时作用于油性区和干燥区的方法来寻求解决混合皮肤的问题。
因此,本发明的主题是:用有效量的、同时具有软化和抑制脂肪酶活性的一种物质,或者将有效量的,有软化作用但无脂肪酶抑制活性的一种物质和另一种无软化作用却有脂肪酶抑制活性的物质结合起来使用,从美容学的角度来治疗混合皮肤。
软化作用这个名词在这里是指一种物持具有以下的有益活性:重建皮肤表面脂类保护层,让表皮保持其充分的柔软和弹性,以及重建脂膜。
具有软化作用的物质通常是脂肪酸酯,如脂肪酸甘油三酯、脂肪醇,以及脂肪酸和脂肪醇的酯类。
在具有脂肪酶抑制活性的软化物质中,可以提到的有:Limnanthes alba(或shambzila)oil、Jessenia bataua(或Hunguraghua)oil、大豆油的非皂化部分,以及牛油树脂。其它没有提到的物质显然也可能有相同的活性。
在没有脂肪酶抑制活性的软化物质中,可以提到的有:橄榄油、十四酸异丙酯、甜杏仁油和可可酸己乙酯(hexyl ethyl cocoate)。通常情况下,植物油都可以使用。
在不具有软化作用,但却有脂肪酶抑制活性的物质中,可以提到的有:大豆蛋白水解产物、小麦蛋白水解产物、铜或者锌乙酸盐。同样,其它没有提到的物质也可以使用。所有这些物质对从事这种工艺的熟练人员来说都是非常熟悉,它们的纯品可以在市场上容易地获得。
具有双重活性的物质,以及具有单一活性、在同一组合物中结合使用的物质,如以上所提到的那些,都进行了验证。Shambrila oil对治疗混合皮肤特别有效。在化妆行业上,精炼的Shambrila oil由于其具有丝质感、软化作用和滋润作用而特别受到欢迎。Shambrila oil是从Limnakthes alba的种子中提取出一的,这种种子具有独特的性质:在其成熟的时候,含有大量的由长链(C20-C22)脂肪酸构成的甘油三酯。这种油含有96%的、超过20个碳的长链脂肪酸,其中18%是多聚不饱和脂肪酸。
检测化妆品组合物中脂酶抑制活性物质所需剂量的方法是通过使用一个简单的装置来进行的。橄榄油和水的混合物的pH值和温度保持不变,此外加入一种与皮肤菌丛脂肪酶性质相当的一种酶,然后置于一个水浴中。
组成基质的混合物是通过混合12毫升橄榄油、15毫升叠氮化钠(0.1%水溶液)、7.5毫升蒸馏水、3毫升待测物质、以及3毫升Tris缓冲液,以使溶液的pH值为8而制成的。然后加入3毫升5%的根霉菌脂肪酶水溶液。
随后,作出能够比较各种脂肪酶抑制物质以及测定它们在反应基质中表现活性所需浓度的曲线。
具有脂肪酶抑制性质的活性物质通过作用于酶的活性位点而抑制酶的活性,表现为硬酯酸阻碍。
在本发明的组合物中抗脂肪酶物质的有效浓度测定为:
Limnanthes alba oil 0.5至1.5%
Jessenia bataua 0.5至15%
牛油树脂 1至10%
大豆非皂化物质 0.2至5%
大豆蛋白水解物 0.2至6%
小麦蛋白水解物 0.2至6%
乙酸铜 0.002至0.01%
将在使用该产品前和使用两周后,通过测定皮肤皮脂水平以验证脂酶抑制剂的活性和软化作用,活性物质按重量百分比制成清洁乳剂、洗剂和乳膏进行试验,在这些实验中,根据本发明,使用了下面的组合物:
清洁乳剂:
甘油 5.0%
聚丙烯酰胺凝胶 2.0%
Limnanthes oil 1.0%
Ethyl hexyl cocoate 1.0%
Cyclomethicone 2.0%
氢化蓖麻油(40EO) 1.0%
香料 0.2%
防腐剂 0.6%
水 qs 100
洗面剂:
甘油 5.0%
聚丙烯酰胺凝胶 1.7%
Cyclomethicone 2.0%
Limnanthes oil 0.5%
矿物油 2.5%
香料 0.3%
防腐剂 0.5%
水 qs100
乳膏:
硬酯酸(40EO) 2.5%
棕榈酸己基乙基酯 4.0%
二辛酸丙二醇酯 4.00%
十八烷醇 2.5%
Limnanthes oil 3.0%
二山俞酸乙二醇酯 3.00%
Cyclomethicone 3.00%
Polymethiconol 2.0%
氢化大豆油 3.5%
防腐剂 0.5%
水 qs 100
甘油 5.0%
聚丙烯酰胺凝胶 3.0%
香料 0.3%
图1、2、3显示了脸上各个部分皮脂水平的变化(皮脂是用一个皮脂测定仪测定的,单位是自定的)。图1表示的是一个有混合皮肤的人面颊皮脂水平的变化情况。图2表示的是一个有混合皮肤的人鼻部皮脂水平的变化情况。图3表示的是一个有混合皮肤的人下巴皮脂水平的变化情况。
在每一个图中,曲线1表示的是使用不含本发明活性物质的相关组合物的情况,曲线2代表使用清洁乳剂、洗面剂和乳膏两周后的情况(包括实施检测的那一天)。
图1、2、3的结果
图1表明:当本发明的组合物使用到面颊上后,皮肤水平起初比较高,然后进一步增加,最后稳定在一个足够对皮肤的干燥部分发挥软化作用的水平上。与此相反,对照实验表明皮脂水平开始非常低,而6小时后则非常高。
图2表明当本发明的组合物使用到鼻部后,皮脂水平稳定在一个低的范围内。另外的参考实验表明皮脂水平急剧升高。
图3表明:本发明的组合物使用到下巴,4小时之后,皮脂水平急剧下降。与之相反参考实验一表明4小时之后,皮脂水平倾向于增加。
因此,这些结果表明:根据本发明制成的组合物可以使干燥部分(面颊)的皮脂明显增加,而油性部分(鼻、下巴)的皮脂明显减少。
另外,本发明的美容组合物,在油性区具有抑制脂酶的活性,而用于干燥区则具有润滑作用。
以乳膏的制作为例,将油相和水相分别加热到80至85℃,搅拌,然后,将油相加到水相中,剧烈搅拌。让混合物冷却,同时缓慢地搅拌。当混合物的温度接近30℃时,加入香料。
以下的实施例不是限制性的。活性物质的量是由实施的种类以及所选择的组分来决定的。治疗的效果取决于两个方面:抗脂肪酶活性和软化作用,根据不使组合物外观上看太油腻、没有刺激作用,对治疗混合皮肤有效来决定有效量。
配方实施例
保护性乳膏:
Limnanthes oil 12%
鲸蜡醇 2.0%
UVB屏蔽(screening)剂 2.0%
UVA屏蔽剂 1.2%
聚氧乙烯月桂醇 2.5%
脱水山梨醇硬脂酸酯 2.5%
聚氧乙烯脱水山梨醇硬脂酸酯 1.0%
乙二胺四乙酸四钠盐(EDTA) 0.1%
聚羧乙烯(Carbopol) 0.35%
氢氧化钠 0.10%
香料 0.2%
防腐剂 0.4%
水 qs 100
清液:
橄榄油 9.0%
Ethyl hexyl cocoate 9.00%
Cyclomethicone 1.5%
乙酸维生素E 0.05%
蔗糖硬脂酸酯 4.0%
蔗糖二硬脂酸酯 1.5%
氢化蓖麻油(40EO) 0.8%
黄原胶 0.2%
防腐剂 0.5%
尿素 3.0%
香料 0.3%
水解小麦蛋白 6%
水 qs 100
洗面剂:
甜杏仁油 7.5%
Cyclomethicone 4.0%
二甲聚硅氧烷 5.0%
丁二醇 6.0%
乙酸铜 0.004%
防腐剂 0.4%
香料 0.3%
水 qs 100
治疗乳膏:
聚异丁烯6-8 5.0%
微晶石蜡 1.5%
甘油硬脂酸酯 3.0%
脱水山梨醇棕榈酸酯(20EO) 1.0%
牛油树脂 6.0%
非皂化大豆物质 6.0%
丁化羟基茴香醚(BHA) 0.05%
防腐剂 0.5%
丙二醇 3.0%
香料 0.4%
水 qs 100
Claims (7)
1、从美学角度治疗混合皮肤的方法,其包括:对皮肤使用含有具有脂肪酶抑制活性的软化物质的化妆品组合物,或者使用含有有效量的对脂肪酶没有作用的软化物质和对脂肪酶有抑制作用,但没有软化作用的物质的化妆品组合物。
2、根据权利要求1,同时有软化和脂肪酶抑制性质的物质是从Limnanthes alba油、Jessenia bataua油、大豆油的非皂化部分以及牛油树脂中选择出来的。
3、根据权利要求1,有软化作用和脂肪酶抑制性质的活性物质是Limnathes alba油。
4、根据权利要求1,对脂肪酶没有作用的软化物质是脂肪酸甘油三酯。
5、根据权利要求1,对脂肪酶没有作用的软化物质是从橄榄油、甜杏仁油、十四酸异丙酯和ethyl hexyl cocoate中选择出的。
6、根据权利权利,有脂肪酶抑制活性,但无软化和用的物质是从大豆蛋白水解物,小麦蛋白水解物、乙酸铜和乙酸锌中选择出的。
7、根据权利要求1,组合物的形式是乳膏、清液或者洗面剂。
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FR9311240A FR2710264B1 (fr) | 1993-09-21 | 1993-09-21 | Utilisation pour le traitement des peaux mixtes d'une quantité efficace de substances actives. |
FR9311240 | 1993-09-21 |
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AU2013327415A1 (en) * | 2012-10-01 | 2015-05-07 | Natura Cosmeticos S.A. | Plant lipid composition for modulating functions of keratinous materials, method for modulating said functions and use of said plant lipids |
US20140350106A1 (en) * | 2013-05-22 | 2014-11-27 | Professional Compounding Centers Of America | Urea Silicone Gel for Scars and Hydration Treatment and Method of Using Same |
AR107195A1 (es) | 2015-12-28 | 2018-03-28 | Natura Cosmeticos Sa | Composición lípida vegetal para promover el crecimiento del cabello, método para promover el crecimiento del cabello y uso de dichos lípidos vegetales |
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Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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FR2041594A5 (zh) * | 1969-04-30 | 1971-01-29 | Expanscience | |
GB1513865A (en) * | 1974-10-07 | 1978-06-14 | Procter & Gamble Ltd | Liquid detergent-containing compositions |
FR2305172A1 (fr) * | 1975-03-26 | 1976-10-22 | Cassenne Lab Sa | Nouvelles compositions cosmetiques |
FR2405068A1 (fr) * | 1977-10-10 | 1979-05-04 | Sauba Lab | Composition pharmaceutique destinee au traitement du dessechement cutane |
DE3018114A1 (de) * | 1980-05-12 | 1981-11-19 | Henkel Kgaa | Hautpflegemittel |
US4556560A (en) * | 1983-01-24 | 1985-12-03 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Methods for the treatment and prophylaxis of diaper rash and diaper dermatitis |
US4621075A (en) * | 1984-11-28 | 1986-11-04 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Gel-form topical antibiotic compositions |
NZ223558A (en) * | 1987-02-18 | 1990-04-26 | Milor Scient Ltd | Acne treatment composition |
US4946832A (en) * | 1987-03-13 | 1990-08-07 | R.I.T.A. Corporation | Cosmetic base composition with therapeutic properties |
JP2568422B2 (ja) * | 1988-01-29 | 1997-01-08 | 日清製油株式会社 | 化粧料 |
FR2644063B1 (fr) * | 1989-03-13 | 1991-06-14 | Fabre Pierre Cosmetique | Compositions dermatologiques et cosmetologiques a base d'alcoylcarboxamide et de sel de zinc utiles dans le traitement de la dermite seborrheique et/ou des troubles de la seborrhee |
US5256649A (en) * | 1989-05-23 | 1993-10-26 | Elf Sanofi | Cosmetic composition against aging of the skin |
FR2648347B1 (fr) * | 1989-06-15 | 1994-04-29 | Sederma Sa | Preparations cosmetiques possedant des proprietes adoucissantes |
FR2651125B1 (fr) * | 1989-08-23 | 1992-10-02 | Roussel Uclaf | Compositions pharmaceutiques de type "pates a l'eau". |
ATE112156T1 (de) * | 1989-10-27 | 1994-10-15 | Richardson Vicks Inc | Lichtschutzmittel mit verbesserter aktivität. |
FR2692480B1 (fr) * | 1992-06-22 | 1995-12-08 | Technico Flor Sa | Nouvelles compositions cosmetiques ou alimentaires renfermant du copaiba. |
FR2706299B1 (fr) * | 1993-06-10 | 1995-09-01 | Oreal | Emulsion cosmétique ou dermatologique huile-dans-eau contenant une composition auto-émulsionnable à base d'un alcool gras et d'un alkylpolyoside et un co-émulsionnant. |
-
1993
- 1993-09-21 FR FR9311240A patent/FR2710264B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
1994
- 1994-09-02 ES ES94401958T patent/ES2141208T3/es not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1994-09-02 AT AT94401958T patent/ATE186834T1/de not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1994-09-02 EP EP94401958A patent/EP0643960B1/fr not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1994-09-02 DE DE69421778T patent/DE69421778T2/de not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1994-09-02 PT PT94401958T patent/PT643960E/pt unknown
- 1994-09-19 CA CA002132369A patent/CA2132369C/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1994-09-20 BR BR9403783A patent/BR9403783A/pt not_active Application Discontinuation
- 1994-09-21 JP JP6226248A patent/JPH07196469A/ja active Pending
- 1994-09-21 CN CN94116453A patent/CN1109740A/zh active Pending
- 1994-09-22 KR KR1019940023901A patent/KR950007833A/ko not_active Application Discontinuation
-
1996
- 1996-01-29 US US08/593,480 patent/US5741496A/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
2000
- 2000-02-16 GR GR20000400371T patent/GR3032673T3/el unknown
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
PT643960E (pt) | 2000-04-28 |
CA2132369C (en) | 1998-10-13 |
BR9403783A (pt) | 1995-05-23 |
DE69421778T2 (de) | 2000-06-21 |
FR2710264B1 (fr) | 1995-12-08 |
CA2132369A1 (en) | 1995-03-22 |
EP0643960B1 (fr) | 1999-11-24 |
ATE186834T1 (de) | 1999-12-15 |
EP0643960A1 (fr) | 1995-03-22 |
DE69421778D1 (de) | 1999-12-30 |
ES2141208T3 (es) | 2000-03-16 |
GR3032673T3 (en) | 2000-06-30 |
US5741496A (en) | 1998-04-21 |
FR2710264A1 (fr) | 1995-03-31 |
KR950007833A (ko) | 1995-04-15 |
JPH07196469A (ja) | 1995-08-01 |
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