CN110760973B - Method for presetting elongation of twill fabric and method for manufacturing twill fabric with set elongation - Google Patents
Method for presetting elongation of twill fabric and method for manufacturing twill fabric with set elongation Download PDFInfo
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- CN110760973B CN110760973B CN201911000997.XA CN201911000997A CN110760973B CN 110760973 B CN110760973 B CN 110760973B CN 201911000997 A CN201911000997 A CN 201911000997A CN 110760973 B CN110760973 B CN 110760973B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/002—With diagonal warps or wefts
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- G—PHYSICS
- G06—COMPUTING; CALCULATING OR COUNTING
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- G06F17/00—Digital computing or data processing equipment or methods, specially adapted for specific functions
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- G06F17/12—Simultaneous equations, e.g. systems of linear equations
Abstract
The method for presetting the extensibility of the twill fabric comprises the steps of prefetching the warp yarn radius and the weft yarn radius of the fabric to be tested, and forming the elastic coefficients of three adjacent warp yarns of the fabric; the number of warp yarns in the weft unit length and the number of weft yarns in the warp unit length; the warp length and the weft length, and the warp breaking strength; and calculating to obtain the radial extensibility of the twill fabric to be detected. A twill fabric manufacturing method for setting warp-wise extensibility comprises the steps of obtaining warp yarns and weft yarns for manufacturing twill fabrics, obtaining the warp yarn radius, the weft yarn radius and the breaking strength of the warp yarns, obtaining the elastic coefficients of three adjacent warp yarns in a weave unit, calculating a plurality of groups of alternative solutions, setting the stress exertion coefficient of the warp yarns in the twill fabrics, trial-manufacturing the twill fabrics according to the alternative solutions, and manufacturing the twill fabrics according to related physical quantity parameters when the extensibility of the trial-manufactured fabrics meets the extensibility error range required to be manufactured. The method is favorable for guiding the material selection and the structural design of the twill fabric according to the required fabric extensibility.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of fabric weaving, in particular to a method for presetting the extensibility of twill fabric and a method for manufacturing the twill fabric with the extensibility set.
Background
In athletic competitions such as swimming and athletics, the performance of a competitive game worn by a player can significantly affect the ability of the player to perform. It is therefore desirable to determine the properties of the fabric from multiple angles or to guide the practice of the production by constructing predictive models of the properties of the fabric to reduce the cost of the test. For example, chinese patent document CN103439188B published in 7/15/2015 describes a method for predicting the tear resistance of a composite plain woven fabric, which theoretically derives a formula for predicting the tear resistance of an infinite composite woven fabric at any crack length, and facilitates the determination of a structure load allowable value of the composite plain woven fabric.
Fabrics are classified into knitted fabrics and woven fabrics according to the weaving manner. Knitted fabrics are fabrics formed by knitting yarns into loops with a knitting needle and interlooping the loops, and are classified into weft knitting and warp knitting. Woven fabric (also called shuttle fabric) refers to a fabric formed by weaving warp yarns and weft yarns according to a certain rule on a weaving machine. The woven fabric has the advantages of stable structure, rich appearance, comprehensive serviceability, good stiffness and smoothness and the like.
With the change of consumption concept, people do not pay more attention to the appearance of the clothes, the comfort of the clothes when the clothes are worn is more and more paid more and more attention to, and especially, the requirements on the aspects of heat retention, moisture permeability, heat dissipation and tensile property of the clothes fabric are higher and higher. In athletic competition, the stretch performance of the game player at the articulated and non-articulated points can significantly affect the performance of the player. Although knitted fabrics have much better stretch ability than woven fabrics, they do not have as good abrasion resistance, wash resistance, and durability as woven fabrics. However, the stretchability of woven fabrics, particularly plain woven fabrics, which have a relatively simple fabric structure, is very unpredictable and determinable with respect to the controllability of warmth retention, moisture permeation, and heat dissipation. Therefore, there is a need to improve the elongation properties of woven fabrics and to predict the elongation properties of woven fabrics.
Chinese patent document CN108152153A published in 2018, 6 and 22 describes a method for constructing a woven fabric elongation prediction model based on a least square method, which mainly includes the following steps: (1) selecting a woven fabric sample woven by yarns with the same weaving tissue and different types; (2) testing yarns in different samplesPerformance index of (2); (3) testing the performance index of the woven fabric of the sample; (4) establishing a multiple linear equation by using a least square method, and performing multiple linear regression analysis on the data obtained by the test to obtain the coefficient a of each variable1、a2、a3And a constant term b, namely obtaining the prediction model. The technical route adopted by the technical scheme is an empirical fitting method.
Currently, theoretical analytical models relating to fabric construction are: peirce bending thread model, Peirce elastic thread model, Kemp's "racetrack" yarn section model, Hamilton's general model, b. Wherein, fig. 1 shows the bending thread model of Peirce of plain weave fabric, in which, P is the plane axial line force direction of the fabric, theta is the included angle (also called weaving angle) between the warp and the fabric axial line, r1Is the weft yarn radius (the change of the weft yarn radius after the fabric is stressed is delta r1)，r2Is the warp radius, P0Is the tension of the warp yarn section, P0The component n in the axial direction of the warp is P0n，P0The component force in the vertical direction t of the warp is P0tDelta L is the length change of the warp yarn section after being tensioned, and delta X is the change of the center distance of the weft yarn after the fabric is stressed; in this model, Peirce assumes that the fabric is made up of homogeneous yarns of circular cross-section, inextensible, incompressible, and freely flexible and that the bending stiffness of the yarns is so small as to be negligible.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a method for presetting the extensibility of twill fabric and a method for manufacturing the twill fabric with the extensibility set so as to preset the extensibility of the twill fabric from a new technical route.
In daily life, people's conventional thinking thinks that: the tensile properties of the fabric can be expressed by measuring the elongation under force of the fabric. However, in this logic, there is no distinction made as to whether the fabric undergoes an irreversible structural deformation in its structure when subjected to an applied elongation. In the invention, extensibility refers to a performance index when the fabric structure and performance are not changed after the fabric is stressed, extended and naturally recovered on the premise that the structure of the fabric is not damaged by stretching. In other words, extensibility characterizes the ability of a fabric to stretch under low load. Factors affecting the elongation ability of the woven fabric are: the performance of the yarn (yarn elasticity, twist, linear density and the like), the fabric texture and the weaving process (fabric texture, weaving tension, sizing condition and the like), the uneven stress of a stress unit in the stress process of the fabric, the friction among the yarns, the bending rigidity of the yarns and the like.
In previous studies, scholars generally consider cross-sectional portions of warp and weft interlacing as point contacts. Even though some scholars establish the section contact model in order to make the established model more intuitive and closer to the fact, the contact position of the warp and weft yarns is still considered as a straight line for analysis when the yarns are subjected to stress analysis. The assumption is that the structural morphology in the fabric is analyzed more clearly, and meanwhile, the calculation is simplified greatly, but the processing has larger errors and inaccurate results.
In the present invention, the following conditions are used as the basis for the analytical study: the friction force among the yarns is static friction force, and the yarns are stressed symmetrically by the weave structure of the fabric, so that when the fabric is subjected to stretching force, the intersection points of the warp yarns and the weft yarns of the fabric do not generate relative displacement; the diameter of warp and weft yarns in the fabric is not changed in the stretching process; and thirdly, an ideal elastic model of the yarns is adopted, namely, the fact that the weft yarns and the warp yarns are ideal elastomers when the fabric is stretched in the warp direction is assumed.
The warp yarn section in the fabric structure unit can be divided into two parts under stress, wherein one part is an attaching arc section of warp yarns and weft yarns at two ends, and the other part is a straight line section of the warp yarns. Referring to the theoretical model of Peirce in FIG. 1, in FIG. 2, P is the plane axis of the fabric, and θj0Is the angle between the warp and the fabric axis (also known as the weaving angle), rjIs the warp radius, rwThe weft yarn radius, the fabric axis vertical distance is rj+rw. Because the stress deformation of the yarn includes plastic deformation, creep deformation and the like, the elastic recovery rates of different yarns are different, and the deformation is unpredictable, so an ideal elastic model needs to be used. In FIG. 3, in one unit structure, Tj1For the tension of warp 1, Tj2For the tension of warp 2, Tj3For warp 3 to receiveStretching force. In fig. 4, in the measurement of the extensibility of the twill fabric, due to the assumption of the above-mentioned first, second and third, the warp yarns will be extended and deformed under the action of the external force of the tensile force of the fabric, and the warp yarns will be elastically extended and moved to the double-dot chain line in the figure by using one of the weft yarns as a reference object, so that the attached arcs of the warp yarns and the weft yarns are shortened, the end points of the attached arcs are upwardly transferred, the weaving angle is reduced, and further the intersection points of the warp yarns and the fabric axis are displaced, at this time, the intersection points B of the warp yarns and the fabric axis will be respectively displaced to B, the end points of the attached arcs of the warp yarns and the weft yarns are displaced from a point to a point, the displacement Bb is the physical quantity related to the extensibility pointed by the invention, and the deformation of the unit.
In order to solve the technical problems, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
a method for presetting the warp extensibility of twill fabric is designed, which comprises the following steps:
pre-fetching warp radius r of a fabric to be testedjWeft radius rwCoefficient of elasticity k of warp 1 constituting the fabricj1Coefficient of elasticity k of warp yarns 2 constituting the fabricj2Coefficient of elasticity k of warp yarns 3 constituting the fabricj3(ii) a Obtaining the number P of warp yarns in the unit length of weft direction of the fabric to be measuredjNumber of weft yarns P in unit length in warp directionw(ii) a Obtaining the warp length X of the fabric to be measuredjAnd length X of weftwWarp break strength T of the fabric to be testedjD；
Then the radial extensibility DeltaL of the twill fabric to be testedjThe following equation is used:
in the system of equations, rjIs the warp radius, rwIs the weft radius, PjThe number of warp threads per unit length in the weft direction of the fabric, PwThe number of weft yarns per unit length in the warp direction of the fabric, XjIs the warp direction length of the fabric, XwIs the weft length of the fabric, kj1To formCoefficient of elasticity, k, of warp yarn 1 of twill fabricj2For the elastic coefficient, k, of the warp yarns 2 constituting the twill fabricj3Is the elastic coefficient of the warp yarn 3 constituting the twill fabric, and the adjacent three warp yarns of the warp yarn 1, the warp yarn 2 and the warp yarn 3 in the weave unit of the twill fabric, thetaj0Is the warp-wise weaving angle theta of twill fabric in a natural statej1Stretching the warp-wise weave angle, T, of the post-twill fabric for tensile forces in fabric extensibility measurementsjDIs the warp breaking strength of the fabric, yjDIs the stress coefficient of the warp yarns in twill fabric, yjD≤30％。
Preferably, y jD5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25% or 30% of the total amount of the composition.
Designs a method for setting the warp extensibility to be delta LjThe method for manufacturing the twill fabric comprises the following steps:
obtaining warp yarns and weft yarns for manufacturing twill fabrics, and obtaining the radius r of the warp yarnsjWeft radius rwBreaking strength T 'of warp yarn'jDWherein, the elasticity coefficient k of the warp yarn 1 is obtained by three adjacent warp yarns of the warp yarn 1, the warp yarn 2 and the warp yarn 3 in the weave unit of the twill fabricj1The elastic coefficient k of the warp 2j2The elastic coefficient k of the warp 3j3，
Substituting the above physical quantities into a set of modes:
in the system of equations, rjIs the warp radius, rwIs the weft yarn radius, T'jDIs the breaking strength of the warp yarn, y'jDThe stress of warp yarns in twill fabric is expressed by coefficient PjThe number of warp threads per unit length in the weft direction of the fabric, PwThe number of weft yarns per unit length in the warp direction of the fabric, XjIs the warp direction length of the fabric, XwIs the weft length of the fabric, kj1For the elastic coefficient, k, of the warp 1 constituting the twill fabricj2For the elastic coefficient, k, of the warp yarns 2 constituting the twill fabricj3To form twillWarp yarn 3 of the fabric has an elastic coefficient, and warp yarn 1, warp yarn 2 and warp yarn 3 are adjacent three warp yarns in the weave unit of the twill fabric, thetaj0Is the warp-wise weaving angle theta of twill fabric in a natural statej1Stretching the warp-wise weave angle of the post-twill fabric for tension in fabric extensibility measurements;
obtaining multiple groups of alternative solutions after calculation
Wherein, thetaj0Is the warp-wise weaving angle, P, of the twill fabric in a natural statewThe number of weft yarns in the unit length of the warp direction of the twill fabric is PjThe number of warp threads in unit length in weft direction of the fabric, XjIs the warp direction length of the fabric, XwIs the weft length of the fabric, y'jDIs the stress coefficient of warp yarn in twill fabric, and y'jD∈[5％,15％]；
The stress exertion coefficient y 'of the warp yarn in the twill fabric is set'jDTrial-producing twill fabrics according to an alternative solution, wherein the twill fabric has a warp direction length of XjThe weft length of the fabric is XwMeasuring the machine direction extensibility DeltaL 'of the test fabric'jWhen Δ L'jAnd when the error range of the warp extensibility required to be manufactured is met, the twill fabric can be manufactured according to the relevant physical quantity parameters.
A method for designing the weft extensibility of twill fabric comprises the following steps:
selecting the warp radius r of the fabric to be wovenjWeft radius rwCoefficient of elasticity k of weft yarn 1 constituting the fabricw1Coefficient of elasticity k of weft yarn 2 constituting the fabricw2Coefficient of elasticity k of weft yarn 3 constituting the fabricw3(ii) a Warp number P in unit length of weft direction of fabric to be madejNumber of weft yarns P in unit length in warp directionw(ii) a Warp direction length X of the fabric to be producedjAnd length X of weftwWeft breaking strength T of the fabric to be producedwD；
The weft extensibility DeltaL of the fabric to be producedwThe following equation is used:
in the system of equations, rjIs the warp radius, rwIs the weft radius, TwFor the weft breaking strength of the fabric, pjThe number of warp threads per unit length in the weft direction of the fabric, pwThe number of weft yarns per unit length in the warp direction of the fabric, XjIs the warp direction length of the fabric, XwIs the weft length of the fabric, kw1For the modulus of elasticity, k, of the weft yarns 1 constituting the fabricw2For the modulus of elasticity, k, of the weft yarns 2 constituting the fabricw3To form the elastic modulus of weft yarn 3 of the fabric, and three adjacent weft yarns, θ, of weft yarns 1, 2 and 3 in the weave unit of the twill fabricw0The weft weaving angle theta of the twill fabric in a natural statew1The weft weaving angle, T, of the twill fabric after the fabric is stressed and stretchedwDIs the weft breaking strength of the fabric, ywDIs the coefficient of force of the weft in the twill fabric, ywD≤30％。
Preferably, y wD5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25% or 30% of the total amount of the composition.
Designs a method for setting latitudinal extensibility to be Delta LwThe method for manufacturing the twill fabric comprises the following steps:
selecting warp yarns and weft yarns for manufacturing twill fabric to enable the warp yarns and the weft yarns to have a warp yarn radius rjWeft radius rwBreaking tenacity T 'of weft yarn'wDWherein, the elasticity coefficient k of the weft yarn 1 is obtained by the adjacent three weft yarns of the weft yarn 1, the weft yarn 2 and the weft yarn 3 in the weave unit of the twill fabricw1The modulus of elasticity k of weft yarn 2w2The modulus of elasticity k of weft yarn 3w3Substituting the above physical quantities into the mode groups
Obtaining multiple groups of alternative solutions after calculation
Wherein, thetaw0The weft weaving angle P of the twill fabric in a natural statewThe number of weft yarns in the unit length of the warp direction of the twill fabric is PjThe number of warp threads in unit length in weft direction of the fabric, XjIs the warp direction length of the fabric, XwIs the weft length, T, of the fabricwApplying the maximum tension capable of naturally recovering the original shape to the weft direction of the twill fabric; wherein, Tw＝y′wDT′wD，T′wDIs the breaking strength of weft yarn, y'wDY 'is the stress coefficient of weft yarn in twill fabric'wD∈[5％,15％]；
The stress exertion coefficient y 'of the weft yarn in the twill fabric is set'wDTrial-producing twill fabrics according to an alternative solution, wherein the twill fabric has a warp direction length of XjThe weft length of the fabric is XwWeft extensibility DeltaL 'of the test twill fabric was measured'wWhen Δ L'wAnd when the weft extensibility error range required to be manufactured is met, the twill fabric can be manufactured according to the relevant physical quantity parameters.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the main beneficial technical effects that:
the method for measuring the elongation of the twill fabric is provided, and the elongation of the twill fabric is obtained from the angle of a theoretical model; the method is favorable for guiding the raw material selection and the structural design of the twill fabric according to the required fabric extensibility, and reduces a large amount of trial and error cost.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a structural analysis diagram of a bending threading model of Peirce of a plain weave fabric in the prior art.
FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of the structural units of a two-over-one-under twill fabric in the natural state of the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a model analysis diagram of two upper and lower twill fabric construction units in the natural state of the present invention;
fig. 4 is a model analysis diagram of a twill fabric two over one under tensile stress T in the case of measuring extensibility in the present invention, in which,the point O represents the center of the cross section of the weft yarn, the line segment Bb represents the elongation before and after warp yarn deformation, the intersection point of the warp yarn axis and the fabric axis moves from B to B leftwards, the point corresponding to the tangent point of the warp yarn edge on the warp yarn axis is changed from A to a, and the weaving angle is changed from thetaj0Becomes thetaj1。
FIG. 5 is a graph of the force-elongation curve at 30cN for one warp yarn of the sample.
FIG. 6 is a graph of the force-elongation curve at 60cN for one warp yarn of the sample.
FIG. 7 is a graph of the force-elongation curve at 90cN for one warp yarn of the sample.
FIG. 8 is a graph of the force-elongation curve at 50cN for the two warp yarns of the sample.
FIG. 9 is a graph of the force-elongation curve for the two warp yarns of the sample at 90 cN.
FIG. 10 is a force-elongation curve at 130cN for the two warp yarns of the sample.
FIG. 11 is a graph of the force-elongation curve at 50cN for the three warp yarns of the sample.
FIG. 12 is a graph of the force-elongation curve for the three warp yarns of the sample at 70 cN.
Figure 13 is the force-elongation curve for the sample three warp yarns at 90 cN.
Detailed Description
The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention in detail and should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention in any way.
In the following formula, the angle is expressed in the radian system.
The invention principle is as follows:
the extensibility Δ L of the twill fabric is defined as the elongation of the space between two adjacent co-directional yarns in a structural unit when the twill fabric is subjected to a maximum tensile force T capable of naturally recovering. The elongation of the interval between two adjacent weft yarns corresponds to the warp direction elongation Delta L of twill fabricjThe elongation of the distance between two adjacent warp yarns corresponds to the weft elongation Delta L of twill fabricw。
Definition, in twill fabrics, rjIs the warp radius, kj1Being elastic systems of warp threads 1Number, kj2Is the modulus of elasticity, k, of the warp 2j3Is the elastic coefficient, T ', of warp yarn 3'jDIs the breaking strength of the warp yarn, y'jDThe coefficient of stress of warp in the fabric is expressed as rwIs the weft radius, XwIs the weft length of the fabric, PjThe number of warp threads in unit length in weft direction of the fabric, XjIs the warp direction length of the fabric, PwThe number of weft yarns per unit length in the warp direction of the fabric, thetaj0Is the warp-wise weaving angle of the fabric in the natural state, thetaj1The warp-wise weave angle of the fabric after stretching for tension in the fabric extensibility determination,
TjDis the warp breaking strength of twill fabric, yjDIs the stress coefficient of the warp yarns in twill fabric, yjD≤30％。
Referring to fig. 2, before the twill fabric is not stretched, in one weave unit, the length of warp yarn 1 is 4BC +2OB, the length of warp yarn 2 is 4BC +2OB, and the length of warp yarn 3 is 4BC +2OB, i.e., the lengths of warp yarn 1, warp yarn 2, and warp yarn 3 are equal. For the warp yarn section between warp yarns 2 and 3, there is a geometric equation before the warp yarns are not drawn
Applying the maximum tension T capable of naturally recovering to the original shape in the warp direction of the twill fabricj＝yjDTjDOr, alternatively, Tj＝y′jDT′jDAccordingly, correspondingly, under the action of the maximum tensile force capable of naturally restoring the twill fabric, in the weave unit of the twill fabric, the force applied to the whole of the warp yarns 1, 2 and 3 is
Based on the assumed condition (i), in order to maintain the internal mechanical balance of the twill fabric, three adjacent warp yarns of the twill fabric should be extended synchronously, that is, the extension of the warp yarns 1, 2 and 3The long amount is equal, and the weave structure of the twill fabric enables the twill fabric weave unit to bear stretching force in the warp direction inside the weave unit
Are respectively dispersed to warp 1, warp 2 and warp 3.
Referring to fig. 3, after the weave units of the twill fabric are stretched, the stretching force applied to the warp yarn 1 segment is set to be Tj1The stretching force borne by the 2 segments of the warp is Tj2The stretching force borne by 3 sections of warp is Tj3Then, in the weave unit of the twill fabric
For warp yarn 1, there is an equation
For warp yarn 2, there is an equation
For warp yarn 3, there is an equation
Equations (5), (6), (7), (8), (9), and (10) construct a system of equations:
in a similar manner, defined, in twill fabrics, rjIs the warp radius, kw1Is the modulus of elasticity, k, of weft yarn 1w2Is the modulus of elasticity, k, of weft yarn 2w3Is the elastic coefficient of weft yarn 3, T'wDIs the breaking strength of weft yarn, y'wDThe coefficient of stress of weft yarn in the fabric is expressed as rwIs the weft radius, XwIs the weft length of the fabric, PjThe number of warp threads in unit length in weft direction of the fabric, XjIs the warp direction length of the fabric, PwThe number of weft yarns per unit length in the warp direction of the fabric, thetaw0The weft weaving angle theta of the twill fabric in a natural statew1The weft weaving angle of the twill fabric after stretching for the tensile force in the fabric extensibility measurement,
TwDis the weft breaking strength of twill fabric, ywDIs the coefficient of force of the weft in the twill fabric, ywD≤30％。
Applying maximum tension T capable of naturally recovering to original shape in weft direction of twill fabricw＝ywDTwDOr, alternatively, Tw＝y′wDT′wDAccordingly, correspondingly, under the action of the maximum tensile force capable of naturally recovering the original state of the twill fabric, in the weave unit of the twill fabric, the force applied to the whole of the weft yarns 1, 2 and 3 is
Based on the assumed condition (i), in order to keep the internal mechanical balance of the twill fabric, three adjacent weft yarns of the twill fabric are extended synchronously, that is, the extension amounts of the weft yarns 1, 2 and 3 are also equal, and the weave structure of the twill fabric enables the twill fabric weave unit to be subjected to tensile force in the warp direction inside the weave unit
Are respectively dispersed in weft yarn 1, weft yarn 2 and weft yarn 3.
The following system of equations exists:
example 1: a method for measuring the warp direction extensibility of twill fabric comprises the following steps:
obtaining the warp radius r of the fabric to be measuredjWeft radius rw(ii) a The specific method is to measure the warp yarn density N of the fabric to be measuredtjWeft yarn density Ntw(unit tex), and the warp bulk weight coefficient in the standard state, deltajAnd the weft volume weight coefficient deltaw(unit mg/mm)3) Radius of warp
Radius of weft
Measuring the warp-wise length X of the fabric to be measuredjAnd length X of weftw(unit cm) and obtaining the number P of warp yarns in each 1cm weft length direction of the fabric to be detectedjNumber of weft yarns P per 1cm of longitudinal length directionw(unit root); the specific method is to take a standard sample of 5cm multiplied by 5cm, at the moment, the warp length XjIs 5cm and the weft length XwAt 5cm, the number M of warp yarns of the standard sample is countedjNumber of weft yarns MwThen, then
Referring to fig. 2-3, a maximum tensile force T capable of naturally recovering is applied in the warp direction of the twill fabric to be testedj(unit cN). In general, the warp breaking strength T of the twill fabric to be measured is measuredjDThen T isj＝yjDTjD；yjDIs the stress coefficient of the warp yarns in twill fabric, yjDLess than or equal to 30 percent. According to need, yjDCan be 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25% or30％。
Substituting the parameters into an equation set (11) to obtain the radial extensibility delta L of the twill fabric to be measuredj。
Example 2: the principle of the method for measuring the weft extensibility of the twill fabric is the same as that in the embodiment 1, and the method comprises the following steps:
obtaining the warp radius r of the fabric to be measuredjWeft radius rw；
Measuring the warp-wise length X of the fabric to be measuredjAnd length X of weftw(unit cm) and obtaining the number P of warp yarns in each 1cm weft length direction of the fabric to be detectedjNumber of weft yarns P per 1cm of longitudinal length directionw(unit root/cm);
applying maximum tension T capable of naturally recovering to original shape in weft direction of twill fabric to be testedw(unit cN). In general, the weft breaking strength T of the twill to be measured is measuredwDThen T isw＝ywDTwD；ywDIs the coefficient of force of the weft in the twill fabric, ywDLess than or equal to 30 percent. According to need, ywDMay be 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25% or 30%.
Substituting the parameters into an equation set (12) to obtain the weft stretchability Delta L of the twill fabric to be testedw。
Experimental example 1:
three twill woven fabrics were selected as experimental materials. The specification parameters of the three experimental samples are shown in table 1.
TABLE 1 basic specification parameters of the test specimens
According to the textile industry standard FZ/T01093-2008, the length of the warp and weft in the extended state under the condition of pre-tension and holding is measured by utilizing a Y331N type yarn twisting machine, the weight of the warp and weft is respectively measured under the condition specified by the standard, and the linear density of the warp and weft is calculated according to the length of the removed warp and weft in the extended state and the weight of the removed warp and weft.
TABLE 2 sample warp and weft yarn Density
The sigma values for the commonly used yarns are shown in table 3.
TABLE 3 Sigma values of commonly used yarns
According to Table 3, for sample one, the sigma value of sample two was selected to be 0.85 (mg/mm)3) For the sample, the sigma value was selected to be 0.9 (mg/mm)3) The warp and weft diameters of the three samples can be calculated as shown in table 4.
TABLE 4 warp and weft diameters of three samples
The yarn was tested for tensile failure according to textile industry standard FZ/T01024 with the parameters set forth in Table 5.
TABLE 5 setting of various parameters for tensile testing of yarns
The average of the yarn tensile break test results in the fabric are shown in table 6.
TABLE 6 yarn breakage test results
And (4) carrying out the yarn removing at different places of the fabric, and removing a plurality of warp yarns. The elastic elongation of the yarns is reduced as much as possible in the yarn removing process, the yarns are prevented from untwisting, the elasticity of the yarns is prevented from being influenced, when elasticity experiment parameters are set, the stretching speed of the warp yarns is set to be slow as much as possible, the stretching dead time is long, the yarns are fully stretched, and the stretching speed is set to be not lower than 60 s. And setting a constant load gradient within thirty percent of breaking strength, performing three gradient experiments to obtain the elastic elongation of the yarns, and averaging to obtain all elastic parameters of the warp yarns in the fabric. The yarn was tested for elasticity according to the textile industry elasticity standard, with the parameters set forth in table 7.
TABLE 7 setting of various parameters of warp elasticity test
And carrying out a gradient constant-load elongation test according to the breaking strength measured by each sample, wherein the constant load is less than thirty percent of the breaking strength. The three constant load elongation gradients are shown in table 8.
TABLE 8 constant load elongation experiment load gradiometer
The yarn was subjected to constant load elongation according to industry standards and set gradient loads and various experimental parameters, and the experimental results of sample one are shown in table 9.
TABLE 9 test sample elasticity at constant load
The data of the constant load elongation elasticity test of the warp yarns in sample two are shown in Table 10.
TABLE 10 constant load elasticity test data for sample two
The elasticity test data for the warp yarns in sample three under constant load are shown in Table 11.
TABLE 11 elastic modulus test data for sample three
As can be seen from tables 9 to 11, in the constant load elongation of each sample warp yarn, the elastic recovery rate of the warp yarn in stretching has relatively good consistency and has a certain increasing trend, which indicates that the warp yarn does not have large yarn damage in the constant load elongation process; the measured elongation CV%, elongation CV% and elastic recovery CV% of the yarn were within the allowable range of the experimental error. In different load gradients of the same sample, the measured elongation has certain incremental property, and the elongation of the same yarn also has better incremental property, which shows that the force and the yarn elongation have certain linear relation.
As can be seen from fig. 5 to 13, curve 1 shows the relationship between the strength and the elongation during the constant load elongation of the warp yarns in the twill woven fabric, the constant load stretching speed of the pre-applied yarn is very slow, the yarn elongation is uniformly increased when the strength is continuously increased, and it can be considered that the yarn elongation and the strength exhibit a certain linear relationship during the constant load stretching process. Similarly, it can be seen that curve 2 represents the relationship between force and elongation during the stretch elastic recovery process of the warp, but it can be seen from the figure that the elastic recovery rate of the cotton is slightly lower, and it can also be seen that curve 2 and curve 1 show better consistency, so that the warp can be considered to have a certain elastic stretch recovery capability when stretched within the above-mentioned predetermined load gradient.
According to the obtained yarn elasticity experimental data and the analysis of the data, a certain linear relation exists between the elastic elongation and the force in the stretching of the warp yarns in the fabric, so that the warp yarns can be elastically deformed under the low-load stretching of the fabric. The ideal elastic coefficient is calculated as follows:
the analysis of the measured elongation of each sample test data shows that the gradient one is influenced by experimental errors, for example, the weaving shrinkage of the yarn is not completely eliminated after the yarn is clamped in a pre-tensioning manner or the yarn has already been subjected to certain elongation and untwisting in the yarn removing process, the measured elongation of the first gradient is taken as a basis to be calculated in the calculating process, two ideal elastic coefficients are calculated by using the measured elongation difference values of the first gradient, the second gradient and the third gradient, and then the two calculated ideal elastic coefficients are averaged. The calculation formula is as follows:
in the formula: f1、F2、F3-constant load values for three gradients, N;
Δl1、Δl2、Δl3-three gradient yarns are measured for elongation, mm;
k-tensile elongation of the yarn at a force of 1cN, mm/cN.
Ideal modulus of elasticity of sample one:
ideal modulus of elasticity for sample two:
ideal modulus of elasticity for sample three:
TABLE 12 Ideal modulus of elasticity for the three samples
Verification example 1:
and taking a fourth sample for the experimental confirmation of the establishment of the mathematical model, and carrying out performance test on the fourth sample. The basic specification parameters of sample four are shown in table 13.
TABLE 13 basic specification parameters for sample four
The tensile break data of the yarn are shown in Table 14, based on the method for testing the elasticity of the yarn under a constant load.
TABLE 14 tensile four-yarn breaking test data
The yarn was subjected to constant load elongation according to table 15, and three gradients were selected, 30cN, 50cN, and 70cN, respectively, so that the constant load elasticity data for the warp yarns in sample four are shown in table 15.
TABLE 15 Experimental data for four warp yarns at constant load elongation
According to the data measured by the table and the calculation formula of the ideal elastic coefficient, the ideal elastic coefficient can be obtained as follows:
according to the calculation formula of the linear density of the yarns and the diameters of the warps and the wefts, the diameters of the warps and the wefts can be obtained as follows:
according to the method of the fabric constant load elongation test, the tensile breaking test data of the fabric can be obtained as shown in table 15.
TABLE 16 tensile rupture test data for four fabrics
According to the experimental data tested in table 16, the fabric is subjected to gradient constant load elongation, three gradients are selected, namely 100N, 150N and 200N, and then the experimental data of the fabric constant load elongation are shown in table 17.
TABLE 17 elongation at constant load test data for fabrics
And respectively carrying out experimental verification on the established mathematical model according to the test data of the sample four, calculating the theoretical value of the model, and carrying out comparative analysis on the theoretical value and the experimental measured value.
And (3) carrying in relevant parameters tested by the sample four by an analytic model established based on the geometric structure, carrying out theoretical calculation of the model, and comparing the theoretical value of the elongation of the fabric under the constant load with the actual test value in the table 18.
TABLE 18 correlation of actual and theoretical values of elongation at constant load of a Fabric
For the analytic model established by the geometric structure, the correlation degree of the theoretical value and the actual test value of the fabric under the constant load gradient can be seen as follows: the correlation degree of the theoretical value and the actual value of the same sample under different low-load gradients is reduced along with the increase of the load, and the correlation degree is larger when the load is smaller. Because the linear relationship of the above-assumed yarn strength elongation will change with increasing load. The model theoretical value of the sample is smaller than the experimental measured value of the fabric when viewed as a whole. The reason is that the thickness of the fabric changes during the stretching process, and the diameters of the warp yarns and the weft yarns are reduced, so that the weaving angle theta of the fabric is reduced, the transverse elongation is caused, the total elongation is increased, and the measured value is larger.
Example 3: a method of predetermining the warp direction extensibility of a twill fabric comprising the steps of:
pre-taking warp radius r of the fabric to be producedjWeft radius rwCoefficient of elasticity k of warp 1 constituting the fabricj1Coefficient of elasticity k of warp yarns 2 constituting the fabricj2Coefficient of elasticity k of warp yarns 3 constituting the fabricj3(ii) a Pre-fetching warp yarn number P in weft unit length of fabric to be madejNumber of weft yarns P in unit length in warp directionw(ii) a Pre-fetching of warp length X of fabric to be producedjAnd length X of weftwWarp break strength T of the fabric to be producedjD；
The warp extensibility DeltaL of the twill fabric to be madejThe following equation is used:
in the system of equations, rjIs the warp radius, rwIs the weft radius, PjThe number of warp threads per unit length in the weft direction of the fabric, PwThe number of weft yarns per unit length in the warp direction of the fabric, XjIs the warp direction length of the fabric, XwIs the weft length of the fabric, kj1For the elastic coefficient, k, of the warp 1 constituting the twill fabricj2For the elastic coefficient, k, of the warp yarns 2 constituting the twill fabricj3Is the elastic coefficient of the warp yarn 3 constituting the twill fabric, and the adjacent three warp yarns of the warp yarn 1, the warp yarn 2 and the warp yarn 3 in the weave unit of the twill fabric, thetaj0Is fromWarp-wise weaving angle theta of twill fabric in the statej1For the warp-wise weaving angle, T, of the twill fabric after the fabric is stressed and stretchedjDIs the warp breaking strength of the fabric, yjDIs the stress coefficient of the warp yarns in twill fabric, yjD≤30％。
Preferably, y jD5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25% or 30% of the total amount of the composition.
Example 4: setting warp extensibility to be delta LjThe method for manufacturing the twill fabric comprises the following steps:
obtaining warp yarns and weft yarns for manufacturing twill fabrics, and measuring the radius r of the warp yarnsjWeft radius rwBreaking strength T 'of warp yarn'jDWherein, the elasticity coefficient k of the warp yarn 1 is obtained by three adjacent warp yarns of the warp yarn 1, the warp yarn 2 and the warp yarn 3 in the weave unit of the twill fabricj1The elastic coefficient k of the warp 2j2The elastic coefficient k of the warp 3j3Substituting the above physical quantities into the mode group (11),
obtaining multiple groups of alternative solutions after calculation
Wherein, thetaj0Is the warp-wise weaving angle, P, of the twill fabric in a natural statewThe number of weft yarns in the unit length of the warp direction of the twill fabric is PjThe number of warp threads in unit length in weft direction of the fabric, XjIs the warp direction length of the fabric, XwIs the weft length, T, of the fabricjApplying the maximum tensile force capable of naturally recovering the original shape to the warp direction of the twill fabric; wherein, Tj＝y′jDT′jD，T′jDIs the breaking strength of the warp yarn, y'jDIs the stress coefficient of warp yarn in twill fabric, and y'jD∈[5％,15％]；
The stress exertion coefficient y 'of the warp yarn in the twill fabric is set'jDTrial-producing twill fabrics according to an alternative solution, wherein the twill fabric has a warp direction length of XjThe weft length of the fabric is XwThe fabric is generally selected to have a warp length Xj5cm, the weft length of the fabricDegree XwAt 5cm, the machine direction extensibility of the test fabric Δ L 'was measured'jWhen Δ L'jAnd when the error range of the warp extensibility required to be made is met (namely, the requirement is met), the twill fabric can be manufactured according to the relevant physical quantity parameters.
Example 5: a method of predetermining the weft extensibility of a twill fabric comprising the steps of:
pre-taking warp radius r of the fabric to be producedjWeft radius rwCoefficient of elasticity k of weft yarn 1 constituting the fabricw1Coefficient of elasticity k of weft yarn 2 constituting the fabricw2Coefficient of elasticity k of weft yarn 3 constituting the fabricw3(ii) a Pre-fetching warp yarn number P in weft unit length of fabric to be madejNumber of weft yarns P in unit length in warp directionw(ii) a Pre-fetching of warp length X of fabric to be producedjAnd length X of weftwWeft breaking strength T of the fabric to be producedwD；
The weft extensibility DeltaL of the fabric to be producedwThe following equation is used:
in the system of equations, rjIs the warp radius, rwIs the weft radius, TwFor the weft breaking strength of the fabric, pjThe number of warp threads per unit length in the weft direction of the fabric, pwThe number of weft yarns per unit length in the warp direction of the fabric, XjIs the warp direction length of the fabric, XwIs the weft length of the fabric, kw1For the modulus of elasticity, k, of the weft yarns 1 constituting the fabricw2For the modulus of elasticity, k, of the weft yarns 2 constituting the fabricw3To form the elastic modulus of weft yarn 3 of the fabric, and three adjacent weft yarns, θ, of weft yarns 1, 2 and 3 in the weave unit of the twill fabricw0The weft weaving angle theta of the twill fabric in a natural statew1The weft weaving angle, T, of the twill fabric after the fabric is stressed and stretchedwDIs the weft breaking strength of the fabric, ywDIs the coefficient of force of the weft in the twill fabric, ywD≤30％。
Preferably, y wD5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25% or 30% of the total amount of the composition.
Example 6: setting warp extensibility to be delta LwThe method for manufacturing the twill fabric comprises the following steps:
obtaining warp yarns and weft yarns for manufacturing twill fabrics, and measuring the radius r of the warp yarnsjWeft radius rwBreaking tenacity T 'of weft yarn'wDWherein, the elasticity coefficient k of the weft yarn 1 is obtained by the adjacent three weft yarns of the weft yarn 1, the weft yarn 2 and the weft yarn 3 in the weave unit of the twill fabricw1The modulus of elasticity k of weft yarn 2w2The modulus of elasticity k of weft yarn 3w3Substituting the physical quantities into a mode group (12),
obtaining multiple groups of alternative solutions after calculation
Wherein, thetaw0The weft weaving angle P of the twill fabric in a natural statewThe number of weft yarns in the unit length of the warp direction of the twill fabric is PjThe number of warp threads in unit length in weft direction of the fabric, XjIs the warp direction length of the fabric, XwIs the weft length, T, of the fabricwApplying the maximum tension capable of naturally recovering the original shape to the weft direction of the twill fabric; wherein, Tw＝y′wDT′wD，T′wDIs the breaking strength of weft yarn, y'wDIs the stress exertion coefficient of weft yarn in twill fabric, y'wD∈[5％,15％]；
The stress exertion coefficient y 'of the weft yarn in the twill fabric is set'wDTrial-producing twill fabrics according to an alternative solution, wherein the twill fabric has a warp direction length of XjThe weft length of the fabric is XwThe fabric is generally selected to have a warp length XjIs 5cm, and the weft length of the fabric is XwAt 5cm, the weft extensibility of the test twill fabric,. DELTA.L'wWhen Δ L'wWhen the error range of the latitudinal extensibility is in accordance with the required manufacture (namely, the requirement is met), the device can be manufactured according to the relevant physical quantity parametersTwill fabrics.
While the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the drawings and the embodiments, those skilled in the art will understand that various specific parameters in the above embodiments can be changed without departing from the spirit of the present invention, and a plurality of specific embodiments are formed, which are common variation ranges of the present invention, and will not be described in detail herein.
Claims (6)
1. A method of predetermining the warp direction extensibility of a twill fabric comprising the steps of:
pre-taking warp radius r of the fabric to be producedjWeft radius rwCoefficient of elasticity k of warp 1 constituting the fabricj1Coefficient of elasticity k of warp yarns 2 constituting the fabricj2Coefficient of elasticity k of warp yarns 3 constituting the fabricj3(ii) a Pre-fetching warp yarn number P in weft unit length of fabric to be madejNumber of weft yarns P in unit length in warp directionw(ii) a Pre-fetching of warp length X of fabric to be producedjAnd length X of weftwWarp break strength T of the fabric to be producedjD；
The warp extensibility DeltaL of the twill fabric to be madejThe following equation is used:
in the system of equations, rjIs the warp radius, rwIs the weft radius, PjThe number of warp threads per unit length in the weft direction of the fabric, PwThe number of weft yarns per unit length in the warp direction of the fabric, XjIs the warp direction length of the fabric, XwIs the weft length of the fabric, kj1For the elastic coefficient, k, of the warp 1 constituting the twill fabricj2For the elastic coefficient, k, of the warp yarns 2 constituting the twill fabricj3Three adjacent warp yarns, T, of warp yarn 1, warp yarn 2 and warp yarn 3 in the weave unit of the twill fabric, which is the elastic coefficient of warp yarn 3 constituting the twill fabricj1The tensile force applied to the 1 section of the warp yarn,Tj2is the tension force applied to 2 sections of warp yarns, Tj3Is the tension force applied to the warp 3 sections, thetaj0Is the warp-wise weaving angle theta of twill fabric in a natural statej1For the warp-wise weaving angle, T, of the twill fabric after the fabric is stressed and stretchedjDIs the warp breaking strength of the fabric, yjDIs the stress coefficient of the warp yarns in twill fabric, yjD≤30％。
2. A method of predetermining the warp extensibility of a twill fabric as in claim 1 wherein yjD5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25% or 30% of the total amount of the composition.
3. Setting warp extensibility to be delta LjThe method for manufacturing the twill fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps of:
pre-fetching warp and weft yarns for making twill fabrics, pre-fetching warp yarn radius rjWeft radius rwBreaking strength T 'of warp yarn'jDWherein, the elasticity coefficient k of the warp yarn 1 is obtained by three adjacent warp yarns of the warp yarn 1, the warp yarn 2 and the warp yarn 3 in the weave unit of the twill fabricj1The elastic coefficient k of the warp 2j2The elastic coefficient k of the warp 3j3，
Substituting the above physical quantities into a set of modes:
in the system of equations, rjIs the warp radius, rwIs the weft yarn radius, T'jDIs the breaking strength of the warp yarn, y'jDThe stress of warp yarns in twill fabric is expressed by coefficient PjThe number of warp threads per unit length in the weft direction of the fabric, PwThe number of weft yarns per unit length in the warp direction of the fabric, XjIs the warp direction length of the fabric, XwIs the weft length of the fabric, kj1For the elastic coefficient, k, of the warp 1 constituting the twill fabricj2For the elastic coefficient, k, of the warp yarns 2 constituting the twill fabricj3Three adjacent warp yarns, T, of warp yarn 1, warp yarn 2 and warp yarn 3 in the weave unit of the twill fabric, which is the elastic coefficient of warp yarn 3 constituting the twill fabricj1Is the tension force applied to 1 section of warp yarn, Tj2Is the tension force applied to 2 sections of warp yarns, Tj3Is the tension force applied to the warp 3 sections, thetaj0Is the warp-wise weaving angle theta of twill fabric in a natural statej1The warp-wise weaving angle of the twill fabric after the fabric is stressed and stretched;
obtaining multiple groups of alternative solutions after calculation
Wherein, thetaj0Is the warp-wise weaving angle, P, of the twill fabric in a natural statewThe number of weft yarns in the unit length of the warp direction of the twill fabric is PjThe number of warp threads in unit length in weft direction of the fabric, XjIs the warp direction length of the fabric, XwIs the weft length of the fabric, y'jDIs the stress coefficient of warp yarn in twill fabric, and y'jD∈[5％,15％]；
The stress exertion coefficient y 'of the warp yarn in the twill fabric is set'jDTrial-producing twill fabrics according to an alternative solution, wherein the twill fabric has a warp direction length of XjThe weft length of the fabric is XwMeasuring the machine direction extensibility DeltaL 'of the test fabric'jWhen Δ L'jAnd when the error range of the warp extensibility required to be manufactured is met, the twill fabric can be manufactured according to the relevant physical quantity parameters.
4. A method of predetermining the weft extensibility of a twill fabric comprising the steps of:
pre-taking warp radius r of the fabric to be producedjWeft radius rwCoefficient of elasticity k of weft yarn 1 constituting the fabricw1Coefficient of elasticity k of weft yarn 2 constituting the fabricw2Coefficient of elasticity k of weft yarn 3 constituting the fabricw3(ii) a Pre-fetching warp yarn number P in weft unit length of fabric to be madejNumber of weft yarns P in unit length in warp directionw(ii) a Pre-fetching of warp length X of fabric to be producedjAnd length X of weftwWeft breaking strength T of the fabric to be producedwD；
The weft extensibility DeltaL of the fabric to be producedwThe following equation is used:
in the system of equations, rjIs the warp radius, rwIs the weft radius, pjThe number of warp threads per unit length in the weft direction of the fabric, pwThe number of weft yarns per unit length in the warp direction of the fabric, XjIs the warp direction length of the fabric, XwIs the weft length of the fabric, kw1For the modulus of elasticity, k, of the weft yarns 1 constituting the fabricw2For the modulus of elasticity, k, of the weft yarns 2 constituting the fabricw3Three adjacent weft yarns, T, in the weave unit of the twill fabric for the coefficient of elasticity of weft yarn 3 that makes up the fabric, weft yarn 1, weft yarn 2, and weft yarn 3w1Tensile force, T, applied to weft 1w2Tensile force, T, applied to weft 2w3The tension, θ, to which the weft-yarn 3 is subjectedw0The weft weaving angle theta of the twill fabric in a natural statew1The weft weaving angle, T, of the twill fabric after the fabric is stressed and stretchedwDIs the weft breaking strength of the fabric, ywDIs the coefficient of force of the weft in the twill fabric, ywD≤30％。
5. A method for predetermining the weft extensibility of a twill fabric as in claim 4 wherein ywD5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25% or 30% of the total amount of the composition.
6. Set latitudinal extensibility to be Delta LwThe method for manufacturing the twill fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps of:
pre-fetching of warp and weft yarns for making twill fabrics, the warp radius rjWeft radius rwBreaking tenacity T 'of weft yarn'wDWherein weft yarns 1, 2 and 3 are in twill fabricThree adjacent weft yarns in the weave unit, weft yarn 1, have a coefficient of elasticity kw1The modulus of elasticity k of weft yarn 2w2The modulus of elasticity k of weft yarn 3w3Substituting the above physical quantities into a mode group:
obtaining multiple groups of alternative solutions after calculation
Wherein, thetaw0The weft weaving angle theta of the twill fabric in a natural statew1The weft weaving angle, P, of the twill fabric after the fabric is stressed and stretchedwThe number of weft yarns in the unit length of the warp direction of the twill fabric is PjThe number of warp threads in unit length in weft direction of the fabric, XjIs the warp direction length of the fabric, XwIs the weft length, T, of the fabricw1Tensile force, T, applied to weft 1w2Tensile force, T, applied to weft 2w3Tensile force, T, applied to 3 weft threadswApplying the maximum tension capable of naturally recovering the original shape to the weft direction of the twill fabric; wherein, Tw＝y′wDT′wD，T′wDIs the breaking strength of weft yarn, y'wDY 'is the stress coefficient of weft yarn in twill fabric'wD∈[5％,15％]；
The stress exertion coefficient y 'of the weft yarn in the twill fabric is set'wDTrial-producing twill fabrics according to an alternative solution, wherein the twill fabric has a warp direction length of XjThe weft length of the fabric is XwWeft extensibility DeltaL 'of the test twill fabric was measured'wWhen Δ L'wAnd when the weft extensibility error range required to be manufactured is met, the twill fabric can be manufactured according to the relevant physical quantity parameters.
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