CN110685064A - Warp-knitted single-sided wool-like fabric and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Warp-knitted single-sided wool-like fabric and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN110685064A CN110685064A CN201911069891.5A CN201911069891A CN110685064A CN 110685064 A CN110685064 A CN 110685064A CN 201911069891 A CN201911069891 A CN 201911069891A CN 110685064 A CN110685064 A CN 110685064A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/02—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features
- D04B21/04—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features characterised by thread material
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/06—Patterned fabrics or articles
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
- D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
Abstract
The invention discloses a warp-knitted single-sided wool-like fabric and a preparation method thereof, and belongs to the field of textiles. The invention is characterized in that a first guide bar penetrates two polyester half-side velvet color yarns on a tricot machine of a tricot section, a warp-stitch effect is formed on the front face of the process by the warp-stitch structure, a sesame-dot effect is formed on the front face of the process by the warp-stitch structure, and corresponding pattern effects are formed by the yarns of two different colors penetrated by the first guide bar; the back two guide bars are fully penetrated by the terylene low stretch yarn to respectively run the warp flat textures of the three needles and the two needles, so that the cloth cover has good dimensional stability and extensibility in the longitudinal direction and the transverse direction, and the appearance effect of the imitated single-face woolen cloth is similar to that of the single-face woolen cloth sold in the market.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a warp-knitted single-sided wool-like fabric and a preparation method thereof, and belongs to the field of textiles.
Background
The woolen fabric mainly refers to various mixed fabrics of all wool and wool. The woolen fabric has the characteristics of crease resistance, wear resistance, soft hand feeling, elegance, stiffness, high elasticity and strong heat retention, and is deeply loved by consumers. However, most of the existing knitted woolen fabrics are weft-knitted structures, and the size stability of the fabrics in the wearing and using process is poor due to the coil structures of the weft-knitted fabrics, and the performance such as easy coil shedding is poor.
Along with economic development, the living standard of people is higher and higher, and the requirements of people on the garment fabric are higher and higher, so that higher requirements on the diversification of the fabric are provided. The garment material is required to have excellent style and hand feeling, and also to have better appearance and performance. In recent 30 years, with the rapid development of knitting technology, the stability of the warp knitting loop structure provides possibility for improving the performance of the original woolen fabric. Compared with weft knitting technology, the warp knitting fabric not only has unique style and hand feeling; and the elasticity in the longitudinal and transverse directions is excellent; the fabric has good dimensional stability and is not easy to deform; is not easy to fall apart and has better anti-snagging property.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a warp-knitted single-sided wool fabric and a preparation process of the fabric, the method is simple in process and low in cost, and compared with the existing weft-knitted wool fabric in the market, the warp-knitted single-sided wool fabric has better dimensional stability and anti-raveling performance.
In order to achieve the purpose, the principle of the invention is that a first guide bar penetrates two kinds of polyester half-side velvet color yarns on a tricot machine of the tricot section and runs through a warp forging tissue or a warp flat tissue, the warp forging tissue forms a herringbone effect on the front face of the process, the warp flat tissue forms a sesame point effect on the front face of the process, and two kinds of yarns with different colors penetrated by the first guide bar form corresponding pattern effects; the back two guide bars are fully penetrated by the terylene low stretch yarn to respectively run the warp flat tissues of three needles and two needles, so that the cloth surface has good dimensional stability and extensibility in the longitudinal and transverse directions; the technical front is used as the garment front of the fabric.
The invention aims to provide a preparation method of a warp-knitted single-sided wool-like fabric, which comprises the following steps:
1) selecting materials: two terylene half velvet fancy color yarns A and B and terylene low stretch yarn DTY are adopted as raw materials;
2) warping: warping the terylene half-edge velvet fancy color yarns and the terylene yarns on a computer copying warping machine according to the width and the density of the yarns according to the number of heads calculated according to the process of each guide bar;
3) weaving: weaving by adopting a warp knitting machine to obtain blank cloth with the effect of imitating single-sided woolen cloth;
4) and (3) after finishing: washing, shaping and cooling the woven grey cloth to obtain the warp-knitted single-sided wool-like fabric;
wherein, the single comb weave structure matching and threading mode during warping and weaving is as follows:
herringbone lines: GB1 comb: 1-0/1-2/2-3/3-4/4-5/4-3/3-2/2-1//, 2 A2B;
GB2 comb: 1-0/2-3//, full penetration;
GB3 comb: 1-2/1-0//, full penetration;
or
Sesame seed points: GB1 comb: 1-0/1-2//, 1 A1B;
GB2 comb: 1-0/2-3//, fully penetrating polyester low stretch yarn;
GB3 comb: 1-2/1-0//, full-penetration polyester low stretch yarn.
In one embodiment of the invention, the GB1 comb is 20S-50S polyester half-side fancy yarns A and B; the GB2 comb and the GB3 comb are 50D-100D terylene DTY.
In one embodiment of the invention, the ratio of the terylene half velvet fancy color yarns A to B is 30 to 68 percent, and the ratio of the terylene low stretch yarn is 32 to 70 percent; the mass percentage of the terylene half flannel fancy dyed yarns A and B is 1: 1.
in one embodiment of the invention, the GB1 is terylene half-side velvet fancy color yarns A and B, the GB2 comb and the GB3 comb are terylene DTY, a first guide bar is used for penetrating two terylene half-side velvet color yarns to run through a forged tissue or a warp flat tissue, the forged tissue forms a herringbone effect on the front face of the process, the warp flat tissue forms a sesame point effect on the front face of the process, and two yarns with different colors penetrated by the first guide bar form corresponding pattern effects; the back two guide bars are fully penetrated by the terylene low stretch yarn to respectively run the warp flat tissues of three needles and two needles, so that the cloth surface has good dimensional stability and extensibility in the longitudinal and transverse directions; the technical front is used as the garment front of the fabric.
In one embodiment of the invention, the method further comprises detecting and packaging.
In one embodiment of the present invention, the temperature of the drying in the step (4) is 150 to 200 ℃.
In one embodiment of the invention, the warp knitting machine is a tricot warp knitting machine.
The second purpose of the invention is to provide the warp-knitted imitated single-sided woolen fabric prepared by the method.
In one embodiment of the invention, the finished warp-knitted single-sided wool fabric product has a square meter grammage of 146-327 g/m2。
The invention also provides a garment and a home textile containing the warp-knitted single-sided wool-like fabric.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
1) the fabric of the invention has moderate bidirectional extensibility and gram weight: the back two guide bars are used for running two needles and three needles for warp flattening, so that the fabric surface has extensibility in the longitudinal direction and the transverse direction, and the gram weight of a finished product can be controlled to be 327g/m2The following;
2) the dimensional stability of the invention is better than that of weft-knitted fabric: the wales of the warp knitting structure are connected through the extension lines, the sinking arc connection is different from that of the weft knitting structure, and the sinking arc length of the weft knitting structure is not released when the warp knitting structure is stretched by a transverse external force, so the dimensional stability of the warp knitting fabric is superior to that of the weft knitting fabric;
3) the invention can imitate the appearance effect similar to single-side woolen cloth: the front guide bar is used for penetrating two kinds of polyester half-side velvet color yarns to run through a warp forging structure or a warp flat structure, the warp forging structure forms a herringbone effect on the front face of the process, and the warp flat structure forms a sesame point effect on the front face of the process;
4) the invention has plump hand feeling and good heat retention property: because half fine hair yarn of dacron weaves through the warp knitting, the cloth cover has the outward appearance fine hair effect similar to woolen cloth, and the two-way extensibility of imitative single face woolen cloth surface fabric of warp knitting is soft comfortable, and the warmth retention is good, and the coil is difficult for coming off.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a motion diagram of herringbone texture lapping of warp-knitted imitated single-sided woolen fabric.
FIG. 2 is a movement diagram of the sesame point texture lapping of the warp-knitted single-sided woolen cloth.
FIG. 3 is a picture of the warp-knitted single-sided wool-like fabric prepared by the method.
Fig. 4 is a picture of a commercial weft-knitted single-sided woolen fabric.
Fig. 5 is a picture of a commercial woven single-sided woolen fabric.
Detailed Description
In order to make the invention more comprehensible, preferred embodiments are described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings. It should be understood that these examples are for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. Furthermore, it should be understood that various changes and modifications can be made by those skilled in the art after reading the present disclosure, and equivalents fall within the scope of the invention defined by the appended claims.
1. Dimensional stability test method: the shrinkage of the fabric was tested according to the commonly used test standards GB/T8628-2001 preparation, marking and measurement of samples for determining dimensional changes of fabrics and GB/T8629-2001 household washing and drying procedure for textile experiments.
2. Flexibility test method: according to American standard AATCC 66, a corresponding hand feeling style index is calculated by adopting a testing principle of a Phabrometer fabric hand feeling evaluation system. Taking a group of pure cotton fabrics as reference samples, calculating the relative hand feeling value of the samples relative to the pure cotton fabrics, wherein the softness of the pure cotton fabrics is marked as 0, and the higher the softness is, the better the softness is.
3. The test method of the heat retention property comprises the following steps: the warm-keeping rate of the fabric is tested by adopting an SFJJ-606PC type fabric heat-insulating property tester according to the standard GB/T11048-1989, namely a textile heat-insulating property test method.
Example 1
The warp-knitted single-sided wool-like fabric comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 17.0% of 50s terylene half-edge fancy color yarn A, 17.0% of 50s terylene half-edge fancy color yarn B and 66.0% of 50D terylene, wherein the front two terylene half-edge fancy color yarns of the fabric wear satin weave to form a herringbone effect of the single-sided wool fabric.
The preparation process of the fabric comprises the following steps: comprises the steps of selecting and matching a single-comb tissue structure, preparing, warping, weaving and shaping.
1) Selecting materials: selecting 20-50 s terylene half-edge velvet fancy color yarns A and B, and selecting 50-100D terylene DTY;
2) warping: temperature and humidity at the warping site: the temperature is 25 +/-1 ℃, the relative humidity is 65 +/-5%, the high and stable temperature and humidity are beneficial to the surface softness and the anti-static generation of the polyester half-pile colored yarns, the yarns are prevented from being entangled with each other, the warp knitting product production is facilitated, and the warping process parameters of the polyester half-pile colored yarns and the polyester low stretch yarn are shown in the table 1.
3) Weaving
Machine parameters:
model: tricot machine HKS3
Machine number: 28 to 32 needles/25.4 mm
Breadth: 472.44mm (186 inch)
Warp knitting organization structure:
example 1 (yarn laying movement figure see fig. 1):
GB1 comb: 1-0/1-2/2-3/3-4/4-5/4-3/3-2/2-1//, 2 A2B;
GB2 comb: 1-0/2-3//, fully penetrating polyester low stretch yarn;
GB3 comb: 1-2/1-0//, fully penetrating polyester low stretch yarn;
raw materials and a threading mode:
GB1 comb: 20s-50s terylene half-edge fancy color yarns A and B,
GB2 comb and GB3 comb: 50D-100D terylene low stretch yarn DTY;
inputting the digital number of the tissue lapping, the let-off amount, the drawing density and the like into a computer display screen of a control cabinet, storing, loading a computer file and starting the machine.
And (4) obtaining grey cloth after weaving, weighing, bagging and warehousing the blank, wherein the length of the cloth is 100 meters.
4) And (3) after finishing: after washing, shaping by using a shaper, wherein the temperature of an oven is 150-200 ℃, and the required width and gram weight of the cloth are controlled; and then cooling, checking, weighing, packaging and warehousing finished products.
Through the process, the warp knitting wool herringbone effect fabric and the warp knitting wool sesame dot effect fabric can be obtained.
The data ranges given in the above process parameters are all data ranges obtained through specific practices, and all data ranges have certain feasibility, and the warp knitting process list parameters are shown in table 2. The quality of the warp-knitted single-sided wool-like fabric obtained by the preparation method is detected, and the result is shown in table 4.
TABLE 1 warping process parameters for polyester half-pile dyed yarn and polyester low-stretch yarn
| Raw materials | Model of the device | Linear velocity | Number of warping | Warping tension |
| 20s-50s terylene half-edge velvet fancy color yarn | GE118 | 300m/min | 600 root of Chinese yam | 15cN |
| 50D-100D terylene low stretch yarn DTY | GE118 | 600m/min | 600 root of Chinese yam | 18cN |
TABLE 2 warp-knitted technical sheet 1
Example 2
The warp-knitted single-sided wool-like fabric comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 28.0% of 20s polyester half-side woolen fancy color yarn A, 28.0% of 20s polyester half-side woolen fancy color yarn B and 44.0% of 100D polyester, wherein the front surface of the fabric is provided with satin weave weaves of the two polyester half-side woolen color yarns to form the sesame dot effect of the single-sided wool-like fabric.
The preparation process of the fabric comprises the following steps: comprises the steps of selecting and matching a single-comb tissue structure, preparing, warping, weaving and shaping.
1) Selecting materials: selecting 20-50 s terylene half-edge velvet fancy color yarns A and B, and selecting 50-100D terylene DTY;
2) warping: temperature and humidity at the warping site: the temperature is 25 +/-1 ℃, the relative humidity is 65 +/-5%, the high and stable temperature and humidity are beneficial to the surface softness and the anti-static generation of the polyester half-pile colored yarns, the yarns are prevented from being entangled with each other, the warp knitting product production is facilitated, and the warping process parameters of the polyester half-pile colored yarns and the polyester low stretch yarn are shown in the table 1.
3) Weaving
Machine parameters:
model: tricot machine HKS3
Machine number: 28 to 32 needles/25.4 mm
Breadth: 472.44mm (186 inch)
Warp knitting organization structure:
GB1 comb: 1-0/1-2//, 1 A1B;
GB2 comb: 1-0/2-3//, fully penetrating polyester low stretch yarn;
GB3 comb: 1-2/1-0//, fully penetrating polyester low stretch yarn;
raw materials and a threading mode:
GB1 comb: 20s-50s terylene half-edge fancy color yarns A and B,
GB2 comb and GB3 comb: 50D-100D terylene low stretch yarn DTY;
inputting the digital number of the tissue lapping, the let-off amount, the drawing density and the like into a computer display screen of a control cabinet, storing, loading a computer file and starting the machine.
And (4) obtaining grey cloth after weaving, weighing, bagging and warehousing the blank, wherein the length of the cloth is 100 meters.
4) And (3) after finishing: after washing, shaping by using a shaper, wherein the temperature of an oven is 150-200 ℃, and the required width and gram weight of the cloth are controlled; and then cooling, checking, weighing, packaging and warehousing finished products.
Through the process, the warp knitting wool herringbone effect fabric and the warp knitting wool sesame dot effect fabric can be obtained.
The data ranges given in the above process parameters are all data ranges obtained through specific practices, and all data ranges have certain feasibility, and the warp knitting process list parameters are shown in table 3. The quality of the warp-knitted single-sided wool-like fabric obtained by the preparation method is detected, and the result is shown in table 4.
The fabrics of examples 1 and 2 have moderate two-way extensibility and gram weight: the back two guide bars are used for running two needles and three needles for warp flattening, so that the fabric surface has extensibility in the longitudinal direction and the transverse direction, and the gram weight of a finished product can be controlled to be 327g/m2The following;
comparative example 1
The appearance picture of the commercial weft-knitted single-sided woolen fabric is shown in figure 4, and the performance test is shown in table 4.
Comparative example 2
The traditional woven single-sided woolen fabric is sourced from Shaoxing wetting textile Limited, the appearance picture of the traditional woven single-sided woolen fabric is shown in a figure 5, and the performance test is shown in a table 4.
TABLE 3 warp-knitted technical sheet 2
Table 4 quality test of warp-knitted single-sided woolen cloth
As can be seen from table 4, the dimensional stability of the present invention is better than that of weft-knitted fabrics: the wales of the warp knitting structure are connected through the extension lines, the sinker loop connection is different from that of the weft knitting structure, and the sinker loop length of the warp knitting structure is not released when the warp knitting structure is stretched by transverse external force, so that the dimensional stability of the warp knitting fabric is superior to that of the weft knitting fabric. The invention has plump hand feeling and good heat retention property: because half fine hair yarn of dacron weaves through the warp knitting, the cloth cover has the outward appearance fine hair effect similar to woolen cloth, and the two-way extensibility of imitative single face woolen cloth surface fabric of warp knitting is soft comfortable, and the warmth retention is good, and the coil is difficult for coming off.
As can be seen from FIGS. 3 to 5, the invention can imitate the appearance effect similar to single-sided woolen cloth: the front guide bar is used for penetrating two kinds of polyester half-side velvet color yarns to run through a warp forging structure or a warp flat structure, the warp forging structure forms a herringbone pattern effect on the front face of the process, and the warp flat structure forms a sesame point effect on the front face of the process.
Although the present invention has been described with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood that various changes and modifications can be made therein by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined in the appended claims.
Claims (10)
1. A preparation method of a warp-knitted single-sided wool fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps:
1) selecting materials: two terylene half velvet fancy color yarns A and B and terylene low stretch yarn DTY are adopted as raw materials;
2) warping: warping the terylene half-edge velvet fancy color yarns and the terylene yarns on a computer copying warping machine according to the width and the density of the yarns according to the number of heads calculated according to the process of each guide bar;
3) weaving: weaving by adopting a warp knitting machine to obtain blank cloth with the effect of imitating single-sided woolen cloth;
4) and (3) after finishing: washing, shaping and cooling the woven grey cloth to obtain the warp-knitted single-sided wool-like fabric;
wherein, the single comb weave structure matching and threading mode during warping and weaving is as follows:
herringbone lines: GB1 comb: 1-0/1-2/2-3/3-4/4-5/4-3/3-2/2-1//, 2 A2B;
GB2 comb: 1-0/2-3//, full penetration;
GB3 comb: 1-2/1-0//, full penetration;
or
Sesame seed points: GB1 comb: 1-0/1-2//, 1 A1B;
GB2 comb: 1-0/2-3//, fully penetrating polyester low stretch yarn;
GB3 comb: 1-2/1-0//, full-penetration polyester low stretch yarn.
2. The preparation method of the warp-knitted imitated single-sided woolen fabric according to claim 1, wherein GB1 is terylene half-side velvet fancy color yarns A and B, GB2 and GB3 are terylene DTY, a first guide bar is used for penetrating two terylene half-side velvet color yarns, a warp forging tissue or a warp flat tissue is used, the warp forging tissue forms a herringbone effect on the technical front face, the warp flat tissue forms a sesame dot effect on the technical front face, and two yarns of different colors penetrated by the first guide bar form corresponding pattern effects; the back two guide bars are fully penetrated by the terylene low stretch yarn to respectively run the warp flat tissues of three needles and two needles, so that the cloth surface has good dimensional stability and extensibility in the longitudinal and transverse directions; the technical front is used as the garment front of the fabric.
3. The preparation method of the warp-knitted single-sided wool-like fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein GB1 combs are 20S-50S polyester half-side fancy dyed yarns A and B; the GB2 comb and the GB3 comb are 50D-100D terylene DTY.
4. The preparation method of the warp-knitted imitated single-sided woolen fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the ratio of the terylene half-side velvet flower-type colored yarns A and B is 30-68%, and the ratio of the terylene low stretch yarn is 32-70%; the mass percentage of the terylene half flannel fancy dyed yarns A and B is 1: 1.
5. the method for preparing the warp-knitted imitated single-sided woolen fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the method further comprises detection and packaging.
6. The preparation method of the warp-knitted imitated single-sided wool fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the drying temperature in the step (4) is 150 to 200 ℃.
7. The method for preparing the warp-knitted single-sided wool-like fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the warp knitting machine is a tricot knitting machine.
8. The warp-knitted single-sided wool fabric prepared by the preparation method of the warp-knitted single-sided wool fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 7.
9. The warp-knitted single-sided wool fabric as claimed in claim 8, wherein the finished product of the warp-knitted single-sided wool fabric has a square meter grammage of 146-327 g/m2。
10. Clothing or home textile comprising the warp-knitted single-sided wool-like fabric according to claim 8 or 9.
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Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN111910334A (en) * | 2020-08-12 | 2020-11-10 | 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 | Fabric warp let-off and threading method |
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| EP1947225B1 (en) * | 2007-01-05 | 2009-05-20 | Carvico S.p.A. | Method for manufacturing a non-run elastic fabric |
| CN104695126A (en) * | 2015-03-10 | 2015-06-10 | 上海泉欣纺织品有限公司 | Herringbone jacquard cloth weaving process |
| CN108315866A (en) * | 2018-02-07 | 2018-07-24 | 江阴市傅博纺织有限公司 | Warp knit sesame point jacquard weave thermal fabric and its manufacturing process |
| CN108716057A (en) * | 2018-05-29 | 2018-10-30 | 江阴市傅博纺织有限公司 | A kind of warp knit elasticity chevron thermal fabric and its production method |
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2019
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| GB2265913A (en) * | 1992-04-10 | 1993-10-13 | Courtaulds Textiles | Warp knitted fabric |
| EP1947225B1 (en) * | 2007-01-05 | 2009-05-20 | Carvico S.p.A. | Method for manufacturing a non-run elastic fabric |
| CN101348969A (en) * | 2008-07-23 | 2009-01-21 | 江苏金太阳卧室用品有限公司 | Chenille fabric and method for manufacturing the same |
| CN104695126A (en) * | 2015-03-10 | 2015-06-10 | 上海泉欣纺织品有限公司 | Herringbone jacquard cloth weaving process |
| CN108315866A (en) * | 2018-02-07 | 2018-07-24 | 江阴市傅博纺织有限公司 | Warp knit sesame point jacquard weave thermal fabric and its manufacturing process |
| CN108716057A (en) * | 2018-05-29 | 2018-10-30 | 江阴市傅博纺织有限公司 | A kind of warp knit elasticity chevron thermal fabric and its production method |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN111910334A (en) * | 2020-08-12 | 2020-11-10 | 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 | Fabric warp let-off and threading method |
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