CN110685054B - Copper ammonia silk crepe cloth fabric and production process thereof - Google Patents
Copper ammonia silk crepe cloth fabric and production process thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN110685054B CN110685054B CN201911052142.1A CN201911052142A CN110685054B CN 110685054 B CN110685054 B CN 110685054B CN 201911052142 A CN201911052142 A CN 201911052142A CN 110685054 B CN110685054 B CN 110685054B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/567—Shapes or effects upon shrinkage
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
- D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
Abstract
The invention discloses a copper ammonia crepe cloth fabric and a production process thereof: the method comprises the following steps: the warp yarn is selected from twisted copper ammonia silk and all cotton yarn, the weft yarn is selected from highly twisted all cotton yarn, and the copper ammonia silk crepe fabric with a special style is obtained through spooling, yarn finishing, drafting, manufacturing and after finishing. Compared with the prior art, the fabric produced by the method is low in cost, has soft touch, luster and similar quality to the copper ammonia silk, is superior to the copper ammonia silk in strength and wear resistance, far surpasses real silk products in strength and size stability, is creped to form a unique style, and can be popularized in the field of high-grade fabrics.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of spinning, in particular to an ammonia silk crepe cloth fabric and a production process thereof.
Background
The cuprammonium rayon is a naturally degradable environment-friendly regenerated fiber which is prepared by treating pure natural plant fibers with cuprammonium rayon solution, has good dyeing property and moisture absorption and air permeability, but has poor stability, and the woven fabric has short service life and is not easy to popularize. At present, fabrics with copper ammonia silk components in the market are mostly formed by compounding and spinning copper ammonia silk and other yarns. However, the fabric which only singly exerts the performance of the cuprammonium rayon yarn is far from meeting the requirements of modern consumers pursuing individuation.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the problems, the invention provides a production process of the copper ammonia silk crepe fabric, which not only maintains the advantages of the copper ammonia silk, but also has the performance of stable size and high elasticity of terylene, and in addition, the fabric far exceeds natural silk in the aspects of luster and hand feeling. In addition, the invention also provides the fabric prepared by the method.
In order to achieve the above purpose, the technical scheme of the invention is as follows:
a production process of a copper ammonia silk crepe fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: the method comprises the following steps:
(1) preparation of raw materials:
preparing warp threads: copper ammonia yarn and all cotton yarn are compounded into silk and twisted normally;
weft preparation: all cotton yarn, highly twisted. (ii) a
(2) Spooling:
selecting a low-speed winder for winding;
(3) yarn finishing:
warping the warp yarn in batches, winding the warp yarn into a sizing shaft, wherein the warping speed is 250-580 m/min; the warped yarn is padded with pulp through a pulp tank, the temperature is 85-95 ℃, and the sizing rate is 6-8%; and drying in a drying room at the temperature of 105-: 30% of PVA205 and 70% of modified starch; the solid content is 9 percent, and the viscosity is 8-9S;
(4) drafting:
according to a fabric drafting method and a reed entering mode, yarns are sequentially penetrated into heddles and reeds;
(5) weaving:
controlling the temperature of a weaving room at 70-80 ℃, weaving the threaded yarns, and weaving the yarns into the copper ammonia wire crepe fabric according to the technological parameters of the fabric drafting texture and the machine weft density.
(6) And (3) after finishing: through the working procedures of boiling, washing, desizing, rinsing, dehydrating, drying and shaping;
in the water washing, boiling and washing are carried out in water with the temperature of 98-100 ℃, weft yarns shrink, and the fabric is in a wicker crepe shape;
in the desizing, enzyme and phosphoric acid detergent are adopted for desizing, and the temperature is controlled between 60 ℃ and 70 ℃;
in rinsing, the water is used for cleaning again;
dewatering, namely removing water on the cloth as much as possible to facilitate the subsequent drying process, and adding a softening agent into the water to improve the hand feeling and improve the overall effect of the cloth cover;
during drying, the mixture is placed in a vertical dryer, the temperature is controlled to be between 40 and 50 ℃, and the air pressure is controlled to be between 2 and 3 kilograms;
in the shaping process, the shaping process is finished in a drying room according to the required finished product width, and the shaping process needs to be carried out under the high-temperature condition, and the temperature is controlled to be 190-200 ℃.
Preferably, the copper ammonia yarn is copper ammonia double-fiber composite yarn; the brand is japan binba.
Preferably, the all cotton yarn is carded yarn.
Preferably, the twisting direction of the warp is S-shaped, and the weft is Z-shaped.
A copper ammonia silk crepe cloth fabric is prepared by the production process.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
1. the warp adopts two cuprammonium rayon single fibers for compounding, the cuprammonium rayon single fiber is about 1.89dex and is less than 1/2 of a common fiber, and cuprammonium rayon multifilaments with the same specification contain more cuprammonium rayon single fibers and have stronger diffuse reflection on light, so that the fabric of the invention has better luster and more gorgeous color after dyeing.
2. The warp is formed by twisting cuprammonium multifilament and face yarn with strong toughness, so that the wear resistance of the whole fabric is enhanced, the service life of the fabric is greatly prolonged, and the cuprammonium multifilament fabric prepared by the method is easy to popularize in the market.
3. The invention adopts the cotton yarn as the weft, has cheap materials, is easy to obtain in the market, reduces the production cost of the whole finished product, and can better exert the natural cellulose performance of the cotton.
4. In the washing process, the weft direction is strongly contracted inwards to form willow-leaf-shaped crepe, the overall style of the fabric is unique, the fabric is individual and fashionable, and the fabric can be used in the field of high-grade fabrics.
Detailed Description
The invention will be further elucidated on the basis of specific examples:
example 1:
the production process of the cuprammonium crepe fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparation of raw materials:
preparing warp threads: two 2dex copper ammonia silk composite yarns and 40S carded yarns are taken and are commonly twisted by S, and the twisting coefficient is 370 composite yarns.
Weft preparation: 40s carded yarn, highly z-twisted, with a twist multiplier of 680.
(2) Spooling:
selecting a low-speed winder for winding;
(3) yarn finishing:
warping the warp yarn in batches, winding the warp yarn into a sizing shaft, wherein the warping speed is 250-580 m/min; the warped yarn is padded with pulp through a pulp tank, the temperature is 85-95 ℃, and the sizing rate is 6-8%; and drying the mixture in a drying room at the temperature of 105-: 30% of PVA205 and 70% of modified starch; the solid content is 9 percent, and the viscosity is 8-9S;
(4) drafting:
according to a fabric drafting method and a reed entering mode, yarns are sequentially penetrated into heddles and reeds;
(5) weaving:
controlling the temperature of a weaving room at 70-80 ℃, weaving the threaded yarns, and weaving the yarns into the copper ammonia wire crepe fabric according to the technological parameters of the fabric drafting texture and the machine filling density;
(6) and (3) after finishing: through the working procedures of boiling, washing, desizing, rinsing, dehydrating, drying and shaping;
in the water washing, boiling and washing are carried out in water with the temperature of 98-100 ℃, weft yarns shrink, and the fabric is in a wicker crepe shape;
in the desizing, enzyme and phosphoric acid detergent are adopted for desizing, and the temperature is controlled between 60 ℃ and 70 ℃;
in rinsing, the water is used for cleaning again;
dewatering, namely removing water on the cloth as much as possible to facilitate the subsequent drying process, and adding a softening agent into the water to improve the hand feeling and improve the overall effect of the cloth cover;
during drying, the mixture is placed in a vertical dryer, the temperature is controlled to be between 40 and 50 ℃, and the air pressure is controlled to be between 2 and 3 kilograms;
in the shaping process, the shaping process is finished in a drying room according to the required finished product width, and the shaping process needs to be carried out under the high-temperature condition, and the temperature is controlled to be 190-200 ℃.
Example 2, a production process of a cuprammonium crepe fabric, comprising the following steps:
(1) preparation of raw materials:
preparing warp threads: two 2dex copper ammonia silk composite yarns and 30S carded yarns are taken and are commonly twisted by S, and the twisting coefficient is 370 composite yarns.
Weft preparation: 40s carded yarn, highly z-twisted, with a twist multiplier of 690.
(2) Spooling:
selecting a low-speed winder for winding;
(3) yarn finishing:
warping the warp yarn in batches, winding the warp yarn into a sizing shaft, wherein the warping speed is 250-580 m/min; the warped yarn is padded with pulp through a pulp tank, the temperature is 85-95 ℃, and the sizing rate is 6-8%; and drying in a drying room at the temperature of 105-: 30% of PVA205 and 70% of modified starch; the solid content is 9 percent, and the viscosity is 8-9S;
(4) drafting:
according to a fabric drafting method and a reed entering mode, yarns are sequentially penetrated into heddles and reeds;
(5) weaving:
controlling the temperature of a weaving room at 70-80 ℃, weaving the threaded yarns, and weaving the yarns into the copper ammonia wire crepe fabric according to the technological parameters of the fabric drafting texture and the machine filling density;
(6) and (3) after finishing: through the working procedures of boiling, washing, desizing, rinsing, dehydrating, drying and shaping;
in the water washing, boiling and washing are carried out in water with the temperature of 98-100 ℃, weft yarns shrink, and the fabric is in a wicker crepe shape;
in the desizing, enzyme and phosphoric acid detergent are adopted for desizing, and the temperature is controlled between 60 ℃ and 70 ℃;
in rinsing, the water is used for cleaning again;
dewatering, namely removing water on the cloth as much as possible to facilitate the subsequent drying process, and adding a softening agent into the water to improve the hand feeling and improve the overall effect of the cloth cover;
during drying, the mixture is placed in a vertical dryer, the temperature is controlled to be between 40 and 50 ℃, and the air pressure is controlled to be between 2 and 3 kilograms;
in the shaping process, the shaping process is finished in a drying room according to the required finished product width, and the shaping process needs to be carried out under the high-temperature condition, and the temperature is controlled to be 190-200 ℃.
The physical properties of the fabric obtained from the above examples are specified in the following table:
TABLE 1 comparison of fiber Properties
| Linear density/dex | Elongation at break% | Retention rate/% | Air permeability/(mm. s-1) | Moisture permeability/(g.m)2.d)-1 | |
| Example 1 | 1.24 | 16.7 | 12.10 | 1545 | 5689 |
| Example 2 | 1.25 | 17.5 | 12.10 | 1571 | 5675 |
| Copper ammonia wire | 1.19 | 7.9 | 8.20 | 1452 | 5771 |
The table shows that the breaking strength and the air permeability of the fabric are superior to those of the existing copper ammonia silk fabric, the breaking resistance of the fabric is far higher than that of the copper ammonia silk, and the transmittance of the fabric is almost the same as that of the copper ammonia silk.
According to the invention, the copper ammonia yarn and the cotton yarn are woven, so that the fabric which has the characteristics of the copper ammonia yarn and the cotton yarn, keeps the high moisture absorption, heat preservation and fracture resistance of the cotton yarn and has the soft and comfortable hand feeling of the copper ammonia yarn through a specific weaving mode is provided. The fabric also has a special crepe effect, can be used for high-grade ready-made clothes, and is personalized and fashionable.
The cotton planting is wide in China, and the materials are easy to obtain. The fabric made by mixing and spinning the cuprammonium rayon and the cotton has the wearability superior to the cuprammonium rayon and forms a unique style, the non-chemically treated cotton occupies the great amount of raw materials, the cost is greatly reduced, and the enterprise burden is lightened.
The above embodiments are only preferred embodiments of the present invention, and are not intended to limit the technical solutions of the present invention, so long as the technical solutions can be realized on the basis of the above embodiments without creative efforts, which should be considered to fall within the protection scope of the patent of the present invention.
Claims (2)
1. A production process of a copper ammonia silk crepe fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: the method comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing raw materials:
preparing warp yarns: copper ammonia yarn and all cotton yarn are compounded into silk and twisted normally;
preparing weft yarns: all cotton yarn, highly twisted;
(2) spooling:
selecting a low-speed winder for winding;
(3) yarn finishing:
warping the warp yarn in batches, winding the warp yarn into a sizing shaft, wherein the warping speed is 250-580 m/min; the warped warp yarn is padded with slurry through a slurry tank, the temperature is 85-95 ℃, and the sizing rate is 6-8%; and drying in a drying room at the temperature of 105-: 30% of PVA205 and 70% of modified starch; the solid content is 9 percent, and the viscosity is 8-9S;
(4) drafting:
according to a fabric drafting method and a reed entering mode, yarns are sequentially penetrated into heddles and reeds;
(5) weaving:
controlling the temperature of a weaving room at 70-80 ℃, weaving the threaded yarns, and weaving the yarns into the copper ammonia wire crepe fabric according to the technological parameters of the fabric drafting texture and the machine filling density;
(6) and (3) after finishing: through the working procedures of boiling, washing, desizing, rinsing, dehydrating, drying and shaping;
in the water washing, boiling and water washing are carried out in water with the temperature of 98-100 ℃, weft yarns shrink, and the fabric is in a wicker crepe shape;
in the desizing, enzyme and phosphoric acid detergent are adopted for desizing, and the temperature is controlled between 60 ℃ and 70 ℃;
in the rinsing, the water is used for cleaning again;
in the dehydration, water on the cloth is removed as much as possible so as to facilitate the subsequent drying process, and soft water is added into the water
The agent improves the hand feeling and improves the overall effect of the cloth cover;
during the drying, the mixture is placed in a vertical dryer, the temperature is controlled to be between 40 and 50 ℃, and the air pressure is controlled to be between 2 and 3 kilograms;
in the shaping, the shaping process is finished in a drying room according to the required finished product width, and the shaping is carried out at high temperature
The temperature is controlled between 190 ℃ and 200 ℃;
the copper ammonia yarn is copper ammonia silk double-fiber multifilament yarn; the single fiber of the cuprammonium rayon is 2dex, and the brand is Nipponba;
the all cotton yarn is carded yarn;
the twisting direction of the warp yarns is S-shaped, and the weft yarns are Z-shaped.
2. A cuprammonium crepe fabric produced by the process of claim 1.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201911052142.1A CN110685054B (en) | 2019-10-31 | 2019-10-31 | Copper ammonia silk crepe cloth fabric and production process thereof |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN201911052142.1A CN110685054B (en) | 2019-10-31 | 2019-10-31 | Copper ammonia silk crepe cloth fabric and production process thereof |
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| CN110685054B true CN110685054B (en) | 2022-05-03 |
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Citations (7)
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|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2006214024A (en) * | 2005-02-02 | 2006-08-17 | Majiipureshion:Kk | Composite cloth having pleat and method for producing the same |
| CN101532199A (en) * | 2009-04-09 | 2009-09-16 | 上海丝绸集团股份有限公司 | Mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon yarn interwoven fabric and weaving method thereof |
| CN104047093A (en) * | 2013-03-11 | 2014-09-17 | 盐城悦弘织造有限公司 | Pure copper ammonia fiber high-density imitated silk jacquard plus material and preparing method of pure copper ammonia fiber high-density imitated silk jacquard plus material |
| CN106012211A (en) * | 2016-07-25 | 2016-10-12 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | Production technology of warp and weft two-way cotton-spandex color-woven crepe fabric |
| CN108060492A (en) * | 2017-11-24 | 2018-05-22 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | A kind of production technology of cuprammonium spun silk twill fabric |
| CN109281038A (en) * | 2018-11-02 | 2019-01-29 | 天津天纺投资控股有限公司 | Cotton cuprammonium is washed different through heavy twist fabric and its processing technology |
| CN110184713A (en) * | 2019-06-20 | 2019-08-30 | 南通悦业纺织有限公司 | The different production technology and its stripped crepe that stripped crepe is knitted through different latitude color |
-
2019
- 2019-10-31 CN CN201911052142.1A patent/CN110685054B/en active Active
Patent Citations (7)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2006214024A (en) * | 2005-02-02 | 2006-08-17 | Majiipureshion:Kk | Composite cloth having pleat and method for producing the same |
| CN101532199A (en) * | 2009-04-09 | 2009-09-16 | 上海丝绸集团股份有限公司 | Mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon yarn interwoven fabric and weaving method thereof |
| CN104047093A (en) * | 2013-03-11 | 2014-09-17 | 盐城悦弘织造有限公司 | Pure copper ammonia fiber high-density imitated silk jacquard plus material and preparing method of pure copper ammonia fiber high-density imitated silk jacquard plus material |
| CN106012211A (en) * | 2016-07-25 | 2016-10-12 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | Production technology of warp and weft two-way cotton-spandex color-woven crepe fabric |
| CN108060492A (en) * | 2017-11-24 | 2018-05-22 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | A kind of production technology of cuprammonium spun silk twill fabric |
| CN109281038A (en) * | 2018-11-02 | 2019-01-29 | 天津天纺投资控股有限公司 | Cotton cuprammonium is washed different through heavy twist fabric and its processing technology |
| CN110184713A (en) * | 2019-06-20 | 2019-08-30 | 南通悦业纺织有限公司 | The different production technology and its stripped crepe that stripped crepe is knitted through different latitude color |
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