CN110215413B

CN110215413B - Eye and lip cleansing gel cosmetic with double gel systems and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN110215413B
Application number: CN201810069528.2A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 黄源城; 邓建明; 刘泽云
Original assignee: Guangzhou Huashi Cosmetics Technology Co ltd
Current assignee: Guangzhou Huashi Cosmetics Technology Co ltd
Priority date: 2018-03-02
Filing date: 2018-03-02
Publication date: 2023-04-28
Anticipated expiration: 2038-03-02
Also published as: CN110215413A

Abstract

The invention discloses a double-gel system eye-lip makeup-removing gel cosmetic and a preparation method thereof, wherein the eye-lip makeup-removing gel cosmetic comprises the following raw materials in percentage: 14-25% of isododecane; 0.5 to 2.5 percent of isostearyl alcohol; 0.25 to 2.0 percent of butanediol cocoate; ethyl cellulose 0.02-0.2%; 1-5% of isohexadecane; 40.3 to 79.73 percent of water; 1-5% of skin-moistening grease; 3 to 15 percent of humectant and 0.5 to 5 percent of auxiliary additive. The invention uses double gel formula technology to make water phase and oil phase coexist in the same system stably without surfactant to form a double gel, the double gel is a dispersion of oil phase dispersed in water phase, and is prepared by specific oil, water phase and other combination, which has stability comparable to emulsion system, especially suitable for cleansing products, and the invention does not contain emulsifying agent, has good cleansing effect, is mild, is not stimulated, is easy to clean and has fresh skin feel.

Description

Eye and lip cleansing gel cosmetic with double gel systems and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of makeup removing cosmetics, in particular to a double-gel-system eye-lip makeup removing gel cosmetic and a preparation method thereof.

Background

The common makeup removing products in the market comprise makeup removing oil or makeup removing cream, makeup removing water, makeup removing emulsion, makeup removing wet tissue, eye lip makeup removing liquid and the like, and are mainly divided into the following three types of oil, water and emulsion according to the formula system and the characteristics: 1. the cleansing oil or cleansing cream has no surfactant, and the cleansing pigment which is difficult to remove by water is dissolved by using the oil-soluble principle, so that the cleansing oil or cleansing cream can not only dissolve cosmetics, but also deeply clean pores, is suitable for cleansing cosmetics, and has the defects of greasiness and difficult cleaning; 2. the cleansing water does not contain oil, and the cleansing pigment and grease are cleaned by adding the surfactant, so that the cleansing water has the advantages of safety, mildness, small skin irritation and suitability for cleansing large areas, and the cleansing water has the defects of incomplete cleansing, surfactant-containing property and unsuitability for the skin of lips; 3. the cleansing gel or cleansing cream has the advantages that the cleansing gel or cleansing cream is provided with oil and water, cleansing oil and surfactant components are utilized to remove cleansing cream, cleansing force is slightly lower than cleansing oil, the cleansing cream has the advantages of combining the characteristics of oil and water, the cleansing cream has the disadvantages of only removing cleansing cream and containing relatively irritating large surfactant components, and the cleansing cream is more irritating to skin, sensitive skin, dry skin, eye and lip skin or skin with wounds. Thus, the product dosage form determines the product characteristics, and currently, it is not possible for one dosage form to have most of the advantages at the same time.

In summary, most of the makeup removal products currently on the market are all-oil system, water-in-oil (W/O) type or water-in-water type, and oil-in-water (O/W) type products. The general full-oil system or water-in-oil (W/O) product has good cleansing effect, water resistance and sweat resistance, but has the problems of 'oily and thick' skin feel, difficult cleaning and the like; while water-based or oil-in-water (O/W) based products have a better refreshing feel, they have poor make-up removal. It is difficult to achieve the refreshing cleansing product which meets the cleansing effect. In addition, emulsifiers are used regardless of the water-in-oil (W/O) or oil-in-water (O/W) formulation. It is known that surfactants (emulsifiers) cause irritation and dehydration problems when used on sensitive skin, however, in oil-water systems, the addition of hydrophilic and lipophilic components is necessary. The usual and unique approach is: the emulsion is prepared by adopting the surfactant, but the surfactant can interfere with the natural balance of skin, and is more obvious after long-term use.

Thus, a good make-up removal product should meet the following requirements at the same time: the cleansing effect is good, the cleansing effect is fresh and not greasy, the skin feel is pleasant, the cleansing effect is mild and not stimulated, and obviously, the above-mentioned several formulations cannot meet the requirements.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to solve the defects of the prior art and provide the eye and lip cleansing gel cosmetic with a double gel system and the preparation method thereof.

In order to achieve the purpose, the invention designs the eye-lip makeup-removing gel cosmetic with a double gel system, which comprises the following raw materials in percentage: 14-25% of isododecane; 0.5 to 2.5 percent of isostearyl alcohol; 0.25 to 2.0 percent of butanediol cocoate; ethyl cellulose 0.02-0.2%; 1-5% of isohexadecane; 40.3 to 79.73 percent of water; 1-5% of skin-moistening grease; 3 to 15 percent of humectant and 0.5 to 5 percent of auxiliary additive.

The eye-lip cleansing gel cosmetic comprises the following raw materials in percentage: 20-25% of isododecane; 1 to 2.5 percent of isostearyl alcohol; 1 to 2.0 percent of butanediol cocoate; ethyl cellulose 0.1-0.2%; 3-5% of isohexadecane; 2-5% of skin-moistening grease; 5-15% of humectant, 1-4% of auxiliary material additive and the balance of water.

The auxiliary material additive is acrylic acid (esters)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer 0.25%; EDTA disodium 0.05%; 0.05% of an ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer; arginine 0.2%; 0.6% of preservative; tocopherol 0.8%, the emollient oil is sweet almond (PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS) oil 0.1%; 3.0% of squalane; 0.35% of citron (CITRUS MEDICA LIMONUM) fruit oil, wherein the humectant is glycerin 3.0%; 3.0% of methyl propylene glycol; 6.0% sorbitol; sodium hyaluronate 0.02%.

The glycerol is replaced with silicone.

The auxiliary material additive also comprises liquid paraffin.

The invention also discloses a preparation method of the eye lip cleansing gel cosmetic with the double gel system, which specifically comprises the following steps:

step one: firstly, isostearyl alcohol, butanediol cocoate and ethyl cellulose are mixed well for standby;

step two: adding isododecane, isohexadecane and skin-moistening oil into a blending container, stirring to dissolve completely, and adding the mixed solution in the step one to prepare oil phase gel;

step three: adding the chelating agent in the water, the humectant and the auxiliary material additive into a proper blending container, stirring and dissolving, adding the thickening agent in the auxiliary material additive, uniformly dispersing, and preparing aqueous phase gel;

step four: slowly adding the oil phase gel into the water phase under shearing; adding neutralizing agent and antioxidant in adjuvant additive, thickening, stirring or homogenizing, adding essence, stirring or homogenizing, and concocting.

Further, in the preparation of the double gel of the oil phase gel and the aqueous phase gel in the above steps, the hydrogel and the oil phase containing the double gel stabilizer are prepared in advance, and the oil phase is added to the aqueous phase under shearing, and if other non-liquid components exist at normal temperature, heating is necessary.

The invention provides a double gel system eye and lip cleansing gel cosmetic and a preparation method thereof, which uses a double gel technology, simultaneously has two phases of oil and water, consists of specific oil phase and water, dissolves makeup pigments which are difficult to remove by water by utilizing cleansing grease (isododecane and isohexadecane) and an oil-soluble oil principle, and an oil-water phase of the cosmetic is stabilized by a unique stabilizer (isostearyl alcohol, butanediol cocoate and ethylcellulose) without a surfactant, has stability comparable with that of an emulsifying system, and integrates the advantages of various dosage forms. Because of the characteristics of the formulation and no addition of surfactant, the preparation is especially suitable for removing makeup from the eyes and lips; in addition, because the double gel has the characteristic of very easy spreading, when removing makeup, the oil phase released by the double gel can be quickly dissolved to remove the makeup, thereby removing the pigment, compared with the traditional emulsification system, the more excellent makeup removing effect is achieved, and the greasy feeling of the full-oil system is not existed! The product developed by the aim can meet the comprehensive requirements of good cleansing power, freshness, no greasiness, mildness, no irritation, easy cleaning, pleasant skin feel, easy application and the like of the cleansing product, and is the ideal choice of the cleansing product.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a table showing the makeup removing effect of the present invention against the makeup removing effect of other products on the market;

fig. 2 is a graph showing the effects of the present invention before, during and after makeup removal.

Detailed Description

The invention is further illustrated below with reference to examples.

Example 1:

the eye-lip makeup-removing gel cosmetic with the double gel systems provided by the embodiment comprises the following raw materials in percentage: 14-25% of isododecane; 0.5 to 2.5 percent of isostearyl alcohol; 0.25 to 2.0 percent of butanediol cocoate; ethyl cellulose 0.02-0.2%; 1-5% of isohexadecane; 40.3 to 79.73 percent of water; 1-5% of skin-moistening grease; 3 to 15 percent of humectant and 0.5 to 5 percent of auxiliary additive.

In the embodiment, the auxiliary material additive is acrylic acid (ester) or C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer 0.25%; EDTA disodium 0.05%; 0.05% of an ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer; arginine 0.2%; 0.6% of preservative; tocopherol 0.8%, the emollient oil is sweet almond (PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS) oil 0.1%; 3.0% of squalane; 0.35% of citron (CITRUS MEDICA LIMONUM) fruit oil, wherein the humectant is glycerin 3.0%; 3.0% of methyl propylene glycol; 6.0% sorbitol; sodium hyaluronate 0.02% and isododecane 21%; isostearyl alcohol 1.3%; 0.83% of butanediol cocoate; ethyl cellulose 0.055%; isocetyl 2% and the balance of water.

The embodiment also discloses a preparation method of the eye-lip cleansing gel cosmetic with the double gel system, which specifically comprises the following steps:

step two: adding isododecane, isohexadecane, oleum Pruni Amurensis (PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS) and squalane into a proper container, stirring to dissolve completely, adding the above mixed solution and fructus Citri (CITRUS MEDICA LIMONUM) fruit oil, stirring uniformly, and making into oil phase gel;

step three: adding water, acrylic acid (esters) and C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer into a proper container, stirring and mixing uniformly, adding EDTA disodium, glycerol, methyl propylene glycol, sorbitol and sodium hyaluronate, stirring and mixing uniformly, adding arginine for neutralization, stirring uniformly, and preparing aqueous phase gel;

step four: under the condition of shearing, adding the oil phase gel into the water phase gel, stirring and homogenizing uniformly, then adding the ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer and the tocopherol to thicken and stir uniformly, adding the preservative, stirring uniformly, finishing the blending, detecting and discharging.

Example 2:

the eye-lip makeup-removing gel cosmetic with the double gel systems provided by the embodiment comprises the following raw materials in percentage: 20-25% of isododecane; 1 to 2.5 percent of isostearyl alcohol; 1 to 2.0 percent of butanediol cocoate; ethyl cellulose 0.1-0.2%; 3-5% of isohexadecane; 2-5% of skin-moistening grease; 5-15% of humectant, 1-4% of auxiliary material additive and the balance of water.

In the embodiment, the auxiliary material additive is acrylic acid (ester) or C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer 0.3%; disodium EDTA 1%; 0.1% of an ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer; arginine 0.3%; 0.8% of preservative; 0.5% of tocopherol, and the skin-moistening oil is 0.2% of sweet almond (PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS) oil; 3.5% of squalane; 0.4% of citron (CITRUS MEDICA LIMONUM) fruit oil, wherein the humectant is glycerin 4.0%; 2.0% of methyl propylene glycol; sorbitol 8.0%; sodium hyaluronate 0.05% and isododecane 22%; isostearyl alcohol 1.5%; 1.5% of butanediol cocoate; ethyl cellulose 0.15%; 3% isohexadecane and the balance of water.

The embodiment also discloses a preparation method of the eye-lip cleansing gel cosmetic with the double gel system, which is characterized in that: the method specifically comprises the following steps:

Example 3:

the eye-lip makeup-removing gel cosmetic with the double gel systems provided by the embodiment comprises the following raw materials in percentage: isododecane 14%; isostearyl alcohol 0.5%; 0.25% of butanediol cocoate; ethyl cellulose 0.02%; 1% of isohexadecane; 2% of skin-moistening grease; 10% of humectant, 4% of auxiliary material additive and the balance of water;

in the embodiment, the auxiliary material additive is acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, EDTA disodium, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, essence, preservative and tocopherol; the skin-moistening oil is sweet almond (PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS) oil, squalane and citron (CITRUS MEDICA LIMONUM) fruit oil; the humectant is silicone, methyl propylene glycol, sorbitol.

step two: adding isododecane, isohexadecane, sweet almond (PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS) oil, squalane and citron (CITRUS MEDICA LIMONUM) fruit oil into a blending container, stirring to dissolve completely, adding the mixed solution in the first step, and making into oil phase gel;

step three: adding water, acrylic acid (ester) and C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer into a proper container, stirring and mixing uniformly, adding EDTA disodium, silicone, methyl propylene glycol and sorbitol, stirring and mixing uniformly, adding arginine for neutralization, stirring uniformly, and preparing aqueous phase gel;

Example 4:

the eye-lip makeup-removing gel cosmetic with the double gel systems provided by the embodiment comprises the following raw materials in percentage: 25% of isododecane; isostearyl alcohol 2.5%; 2.0% of butanediol cocoate; ethyl cellulose 0.2%; isohexadecane 5%; skin-moistening grease 5%; 15% of humectant, 4% of auxiliary additive and the balance of water.

In the embodiment, the auxiliary material additive is acrylic acid (ester) or C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer 0.5%; disodium EDTA 1%; 0.2% of an ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer; arginine 0.5%; 0.8% of preservative; 0.5% of tocopherol; 0.5% of liquid paraffin, wherein the skin-moistening oil is 1% of sweet almond (PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS) oil; 3.5% of squalane; 0.5% of citron (CITRUS MEDICA LIMONUM) fruit oil, wherein the humectant is glycerin 5.0%; 2.5% of methyl propylene glycol; 6.0% sorbitol; sodium hyaluronate 1.5%.

In the case of preparing a double gel of an oil phase gel and an aqueous phase gel in the above-described steps in this embodiment, hydrogels and an oil phase containing a double gel stabilizer are prepared in advance, and the oil phase is added to the aqueous phase under shearing, and thus it is necessary to melt paraffin wax into liquid paraffin wax by heating due to the presence of paraffin wax.

Example 5:

the eye-lip makeup-removing gel cosmetic with the double gel systems provided by the embodiment comprises the following raw materials in percentage: isododecane 20%; isostearyl alcohol 1.8%; 0.5% of butanediol cocoate; ethyl cellulose 0.05%; 3% of isohexadecane; 2% of skin-moistening grease; 8% of humectant, 4% of auxiliary material additive and the balance of water;

in the embodiment, the auxiliary material additive is acrylic acid (ester) or C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer 0.5%; EDTA disodium 0.2%; 0.2% of an ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer; arginine 0.5%; 1.2% of preservative; 0.3% of tocopherol; 1.5% of liquid paraffin, wherein the skin-moistening grease is 0.2% of sweet almond (PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS) oil; 1.3% of squalane; 0.3% of citron (CITRUS MEDICA LIMONUM) fruit oil, wherein the humectant is glycerin 4.0%; 2.0% of methyl propylene glycol; sorbitol 1.5%; sodium hyaluronate 0.5%.

Application of the above examples to make-up removal products:

1. the makeup and the makeup removal are a pair of twin sisters, such as a shadow shape, the double gel does not contain a surfactant and has good spreadability, and the oil phase quickly released by the double gel can quickly dissolve the makeup to be removed during the makeup removal, so that the pigment is removed, and compared with a traditional emulsification system, the makeup removal effect is more excellent!

2. The preparation process of the double gel comprises the following steps:

in order to prepare the double gel, the hydrogel and the oil phase containing the double gel stabilizer are prepared in advance, the oil phase is added into the water phase under the condition of shearing, and a cold preparation process can be adopted, if other non-liquid components (such as wax, solid grease and the like) exist at normal temperature, heating is needed.

1) The dual gel system is different from the emulsion system: in an emulsion system, the oil/water phase interface is stabilized by surfactant molecules having surface activity, which can cause small particle size dispersed droplets to be generated and the dispersed droplets to be stabilized for a specific period of time.

2) In a dual gel system, no surfactant is required to stabilize the system, and its oil-water two-phase stabilization is achieved by two mechanisms:

(1) ethyl cellulose: there is an oil-water two-phase interface to stabilize the violent repulsion between the liquid drops, and the surface prevents them from aggregating and flocculating.

(2) Hydrogel and oil gel: the hardness of the dispersed particles formed by the double gel also reduces the tendency of the dispersion to flocculate.

3) The cleansing oil is directly used for achieving the cleansing function, an emulsifying agent is not needed to be added, the product is made to have an emulsion type by utilizing the double gel technology, the characteristics of the emulsion type product without the emulsifying agent are reflected, an ideal cleansing product is developed, and meanwhile, the advantages of cleansing oil, cleansing water and cleansing milk are combined, so that good effects of easiness in cleansing, freshness, no greasiness, pleasant skin feel, mildness, no irritation and the like are achieved.

3. Gel control:

how to determine whether a dual gel system is formulated: under an optical microscope, fine and uniform dispersed particles, a uniformly bright white appearance, and no surface imperfections should be seen.

In the following experiments, it was demonstrated that the dual gel system eye-lip make-up removal gel was superior to make-up removal products of other systems-!

a) The double gel system is compared with the traditional emulsifying system, the whole oil formula and the water agent formula:

1) Makeup removal effect test results (see fig. 1):

the results show that: the cleansing effect of the cleansing gel for eyes and lips of the double gel system is best-! The advantages over conventional emulsions are more ≡!

b) Cleansing effect, refreshing feel, and application feel trial evaluation (see fig. 2):

1) Make-up removal effect legend: the effect of the double gel system eye and lip cleansing gel on lipstick is compared with that of the traditional common cleansing cream.

Note that: the left side is the double gel system eye lip cleansing gel, and the right side is the common cleansing emulsion.

The test results show that: the cleansing gel for eyes and lips of the double gel system has more thorough cleansing effect on lipstick than the traditional common cleansing emulsion.

2) Test example:

the skin-cleansing effect, the refreshing feeling and the smearing feeling were tested on the skin of the hand by using the double gel system eye-lip cleansing gel prepared in example 1 and the common cleansing milk smeared around the eyes for testing the irritation, and when in use, the cleansing milk was gently massaged and then uniformly coated on the hand, and the skin feeling was evaluated after about 2 minutes. An equal weight of makeup removing cream is used each time.

The dual gel system eye-lip makeup-removing gel and the general makeup-removing emulsion prepared in example 1 were evaluated by 10 panelists according to the following (a) 5-level evaluation criteria: (1) irritation, (2) makeup removal effect, (3) refreshing feel, (4) smearing feel (easy to smear). The judgment was made by using the average score of the sample obtained by the evaluation criterion of 5 grades according to the following criterion of (b) 4 grades.

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For the dual gel system eye-lip cleansing gel prepared in example 1,

the test of (a) 5-level evaluation standard shows that:

the fraction of irritation was: 0.1, 0, 1, 0, 1;

the scores of the makeup removing effect are respectively as follows: 5. 5, 4, 5;

the fraction of the refreshing feeling is respectively as follows: 4. 5, 4, 5;

the scores of the smearing feeling are respectively as follows: 5. 4, 5, 4, 5, 4;

according to the (b) 4-level judgment standard test, the following steps are found:

the fraction of irritation was 0.4, respectively, and the results were excellent;

the average score of the cleansing effect is 4.8, and the effect is excellent;

the average score of the refreshing feeling is 4.4, and the effect is excellent;

the average score of the smear feeling was 4.6, and the effect was excellent.

For the common makeup remover emulsion,

the test of (a) 5-level evaluation standard shows that:

the fraction of irritation was: 3. 4, 3, 4, 3;

the scores of the makeup removing effect are respectively as follows: 3. 4, 3, 4, 3;

the fraction of the refreshing feeling is respectively as follows: 3. 3, 4, 3;

the scores of the smearing feeling are respectively as follows: 2. 2, 3, 2, 3;

the fraction of irritation was 3.7, respectively, with poor results;

the average score of the cleansing effect is 3.7, and the effect is good;

the average score of the refreshing feeling is 3.2, and the effect is good;

the average score of the smearing feeling is 2.4, and the effect is general;

conclusion: therefore, the irritation, the makeup removing effect, the refreshing feeling and the smearing feeling of the double-gel system eye and lip makeup removing gel are far better than those of the common makeup removing emulsion prepared by adopting the emulsifier.

Claims

1. An eye and lip cleansing gel cosmetic with a double gel system is characterized in that: the eye-lip cleansing gel cosmetic comprises the following raw materials in percentage: 14-25% of isododecane; 0.5 to 2.5 percent of isostearyl alcohol; 0.25 to 2.0 percent of butanediol cocoate; ethyl cellulose 0.02-0.2%; 1-5% of isohexadecane; 40.3 to 79.73 percent of water; also comprises skin-moistening oil; a humectant and an adjuvant additive;

the auxiliary material additive is acrylic acid (esters)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer 0.25%; EDTA disodium 0.05%; 0.05% of an ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer; arginine 0.2%; 0.6% of preservative; tocopherol 0.8%, the emollient oil is sweet almond (PRUNUS AMYGDALUSDULCIS) oil 0.1%; 3.0% of squalane; 0.35% of citron (CITRUSMEDICA LIMONUM) fruit oil, wherein the humectant is glycerin 3.0%; 3.0% of methyl propylene glycol; 6.0% sorbitol; sodium hyaluronate 0.02%.

2. The eye-lip cleansing gel cosmetic of claim 1, wherein: the glycerol is replaced with silicone.

3. The eye-lip cleansing gel cosmetic of claim 1, wherein: the auxiliary material additive also comprises liquid paraffin.