CN110087627B - Composition comprising at least two anionic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants and at least one antidandruff agent - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular the hair, comprising at least two anionic surfactants, at least one nonionic surfactant, at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one antidandruff agent. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular for washing and/or conditioning the hair, using such a composition, and also to the use of said composition.

Description

Composition comprising at least two anionic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants and at least one antidandruff agent

The present invention relates to a composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least two different anionic surfactants, at least one nonionic surfactant, at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one antidandruff agent. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres using such a composition and also to the use of said composition.

In order to prevent the formation of dandruff, a number of hair compositions containing one or more antidandruff agents have been proposed in the prior art.

However, these antidandruff hair compositions are not necessarily entirely satisfactory and can be further improved, in particular in terms of depositing antidandruff agents onto keratin fibres and the scalp in order to have optimal efficacy.

Furthermore, the antidandruff hair compositions of the prior art are often not entirely satisfactory in terms of foaming power and/or cosmetic properties (generally expected for compositions for washing keratin fibres).

Therefore, there is a real need to develop antidandruff compositions for hair intended for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, which are capable of giving the hair improved cosmetic properties after one or more applications, without leaving the whole hair frizzy or thin, while at the same time maintaining good washing power, in particular good foamability (rapid generation of good quality rich foam) and satisfactory working quality (ease of application of the composition on the hair, in particular on wet hair, and good rinsability).

This object is achieved by the present invention, one subject of which is in particular a cosmetic composition, preferably a hair composition, intended in particular for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising:

(i) One or more anionic surfactants selected from polyoxyalkylenated hydrocarbyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof;

(ii) One or more anionic surfactants other than the polyoxyalkylenated hydrocarbyl (amido) ether carboxylic acid anionic surfactant (i);

(iii) One or more nonionic surfactants;

(iv) One or more amphoteric surfactants; and

(v) One or more antidandruff agents.

The compositions according to the invention were found to have satisfactory foaming capacity. It allows the production of a rich, rapidly-generated foam that is easily smeared on keratin fibres and is easily removed upon rinsing.

Some users of shampoos, in particular antidandruff shampoos, may have more or less sensitized hair, i.e. hair that is damaged or embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents, such as light and bad weather, and/or by the action of mechanical or chemical treatments, such as wiping, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent waving and/or relaxing. The composition according to the invention thus also makes it possible to improve the cosmetic properties imparted to keratin fibres, in particular the hair, preferably sensitized hair. In particular, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to improve the disentangling, the suppleness and also the feel of the hair without an accumulating effect.

Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention are less aggressive, since their long-term application to the hair fibres causes little damage, in particular in connection with the gradual removal of the lipids or proteins contained in or on the surface of said fibres.

Furthermore, the composition according to the invention allows a good deposition of the antidandruff agent on the keratin fibres and thus makes it possible to obtain an improved antidandruff activity.

Furthermore, the composition according to the invention can impart cosmetic properties to a hair wash resistant agent.

The compositions according to the invention also have the advantage of being storage stable at both room temperature (20 ℃ to 25 ℃) and 45 ℃, in particular with respect to their visual aspect and/or their viscosity.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "stable" refers to compositions which show no change in appearance, color, odor, pH or viscosity after storage for two months.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is non-pigmented.

According to the invention, the term "non-colouring composition" means a composition which does not contain any keratin fibre dyes such as direct dyes or oxidation dye precursors (bases and/or couplers). If they are present, their content does not exceed 0.005% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Specifically, at such levels, only the composition will be colored, i.e., no coloring effect will be observed on the keratin fibers.

Hereinafter and unless otherwise specified, the limits of the range of values are included in the range, in particular in the expressions "between … …" and "in the range from … … to … …".

Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in the present specification is equivalent to and can be replaced by the expression "one or more".

Anionic surfactants

As mentioned above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant (i) of the polyoxyalkylenated hydrocarbyl (amido) ether carboxylic acid type and at least one anionic surfactant (ii) other than said anionic surfactant(s) (i).

Thus, for the purposes of the present invention, a cosmetic composition comprises at least two different anionic surfactants.

The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant that contains only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.

In this specification, a substance is referred to as "anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized to a negatively charged species, under conditions in which the composition of the invention is used (e.g., medium or pH) and does not include any cationic charge.

Polyoxyalkylenated hydrocarbyl (amido) ether carboxylic acid (i)

The compositions of the invention contain at least one anionic surfactant selected from polyoxyalkylenated hydrocarbyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, especially those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxides and especially ethylene oxide groups.

The polyoxyalkylenated hydrocarbyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids which may be used are preferably selected from those having the formula (1):

R ₁ -(OC ₂ H ₄ ) _n -OCH ₂ COOA (1)

wherein:

r1 represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl group, a hydrocarbyl (C8-C9) phenyl group, a group R2CONH-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, wherein R2 denotes a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl group;

preferably, R1 is a C8-C20 and preferably C8-C18 hydrocarbyl group,

n is an integer or decimal (average) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10,

-A indicates H, ammonium, na, K, li, mg, ca, or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.

It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of the formula (1), in particular mixtures of compounds containing different radicals R1.

Particularly preferred polyoxyalkylenated hydrocarbyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids are those having the formula (1) wherein:

r1 denotes a C12-C14 hydrocarbon radical, a cocoyl radical, an oleyl radical, a nonylphenyl radical or an octylphenyl radical,

a represents a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

-n ranges from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.

Even more preferably, a compound having formula (1) is used, wherein R1 indicates a C12 hydrocarbyl group, a indicates a hydrogen or sodium atom and n is in the range of 2 to 10.

Preference is given to using polyoxyalkylenated (C) ₆ -C ₂₄ ) Hydrocarbyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, polyoxyalkylenated (C) ₆ -C ₂₄ ) Hydrocarbyl amido ether carboxylic acids, particularly those containing 2 to 15 alkylene oxide groups, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

Where the anionic surfactant is in the form of a salt, the salt may be selected from alkali metal salts (such as sodium or potassium salts), ammonium salts, amine salts (particularly amino alcohol salts) and alkaline earth metal salts (such as magnesium salts).

Examples of amino alcohol salts which may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane salts.

Preferably, alkali or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are used.

Among the commercial products that may be preferably used are the following products sold by KAO corporation under the following names:

NP 70(R ₁ = nonylphenyl, n =7,A = H)

NP 40(R ₁ = nonylphenyl, n =4, a = h)

OP 40(R ₁ = octylphenyl, n =4, a = h)

OP 80(R ₁ = octyl phenyl, n =8, a = h)

OP 190(R ₁ = octylphenyl, n =19, a = h)

RLM 38(R ₁ ＝(C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ ) Hydrocarbyl radical, n =4，A＝H)

RLM 38NV(R ₁ ＝(C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ ) Hydrocarbyl, n =4, a = na)

RLM 45CA(R ₁ ＝(C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ ) Hydrocarbyl radical, n =4.5, A = H)

RLM 45NV(R ₁ ＝(C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ ) Hydrocarbyl, n =4.5, a = na)

RLM 100(R ₁ ＝(C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ ) Hydrocarbyl, n =10, a = h)

RLM 100NV(R ₁ ＝(C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ ) Hydrocarbyl, n =10, a = na)

RLM 130(R ₁ ＝(C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ ) Hydrocarbyl radical, n =13, A = H)

RLM 160NV(R ₁ ＝(C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ ) Hydrocarbyl, n =16,A = Na)

Or sold by the company Sandoz (Sandoz) under the following names:

sandopan DTC-acid (R) ₁ ＝(C ₁₃ ) Hydrocarbyl radical, n =6, A = H)

Sandopan DTC(R ₁ ＝(C ₁₃ ) Hydrocarbyl, n =6, a = na)

Sandopan LS 24(R ₁ ＝(C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ ) Hydrocarbyl, n =12, a = na)

Sandopan JA 36(R ₁ ＝(C ₁₃ ) Hydrocarbyl, n =18, a = h),

and more particularly products sold under the names:

RLM 45 (INCI: laureth-5-carboxylic acid)

RLM 100

RLM 38。

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises said one or more polyoxyalkylenated hydrocarbyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids and/or salts thereof in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, better still from 3% to 20% by weight and preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional anionic surfactant (ii)

As mentioned above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one further anionic surfactant other than the above-mentioned polyoxyalkylenated hydrocarbyl (amido) ether carboxylic acid and/or salt thereof (i).

Preferably, said further anionic surfactant (ii) used in the composition according to the invention is selected from anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate and/or carboxylate groups, and/or mixtures thereof, preferably sulfate groups.

The anionic surfactant (ii) may be oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated. The total average number of Ethylene Oxide (EO) and/or Propylene Oxide (PO) groups may then be in the range of 1 to 50 and especially 1 to 10.

Thus, carboxylic acid anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate functional group.

They may be selected from the following compounds: acyl glycinate, acyl lactate, acyl sarcosinate, acyl glutamate; hydrocarbyl-D-galactosyluronic acid; and also salts of these compounds;

the hydrocarbon and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

C6-C24 hydrocarbyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids can also be used, such as C6-C24 hydrocarbyl polyglycoside-citrate, C6-C24 hydrocarbyl polyglycoside-tartrate, and C6-C24 hydrocarbyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinate, and salts thereof.

Preferably, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

-acylglutamates, in particular C6-C24 or even C12-C20 acylglutamates, such as stearoylglutamate, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;

-acyl sarcosinates, in particular C6-C24 or even C12-C20 acyl sarcosinates, such as palmitoyl sarcosinate, and in particular sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate;

acyl lactylates, in particular acyl lactylates of C12-C28 or even C14-C24, such as behenyl lactylate, and in particular sodium behenyl lactate;

-C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 acyl glycinates;

in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or aminoalcohol salts.

Sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used include at least one sulfonate functional group.

They may be selected from the following compounds: alkyl sulfonates, alkyl amide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl amide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, N-acyl taurates, acyl isethionates; alkyl sulfolaurate salts; and also salts of these compounds;

the hydrocarbyl group of these compounds comprises from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; wherein the aryl group preferably indicates a phenyl or benzyl group;

these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Preferably, the sulfonate anionic surfactant is selected from:

-C ₆ -C ₂₄ and in particular C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ Alkyl sulfosuccinates, in particular lauryl sulfosuccinate;

-C ₆ -C ₂₄ and in particular C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ Alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

- (C6-C24) acyl isethionates and preferably (C12-C18) acyl isethionates;

in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or aminoalcohol salts.

The anionic surfactants of the sulfate salts that can be used include at least one sulfate functional group.

They may be selected from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkyl aryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and salts of these compounds;

the hydrocarbyl group of these compounds comprises from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; wherein the aryl group preferably indicates a phenyl or benzyl group;

these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Preferably, the sulphate anionic surfactant is selected, alone or as a mixture, from:

alkyl sulfates, in particular C6-C24 or even C12-C20 alkyl sulfates,

-alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C6-C24 or even C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or aminoalcohol salts.

When the anionic surfactant is in the form of a salt, the salt may be selected from alkali metal salts (such as sodium or potassium salts), ammonium salts, amine salts (particularly amino alcohol salts) and alkaline earth metal salts (such as magnesium or calcium salts).

Examples of amino alcohol salts which may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane salts.

Preferably, alkali or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are used.

Preferably, the additional anionic surfactant (ii) is selected, alone or as a mixture, from:

-C ₆ -C ₂₄ and in particular C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ An alkyl sulfate;

-C ₆ -C ₂₄ and in particular C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ Alkyl ether sulfates; preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

-C ₆ -C ₂₄ and in particular C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ Alkyl sulfosuccinates, in particular lauryl sulfosuccinate;

-C ₆ -C ₂₄ and in particular C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ Alkyl ethersA sulfosuccinate salt;

- (C6-C24) acyl isethionates and preferably (C12-C18) acyl isethionates;

-C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 acyl sarcosinates; particularly palmitoyl sarcosinate;

-C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 acyl glutamates;

-C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 acyl glycinates;

in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or aminoalcohol salts.

Among the anionic surfactants (ii), it is preferred to use one or more sulfate anionic surfactants.

Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) (ii) is/are in the form of a salt, and in particular an alkali metal salt, especially a sodium salt, an ammonium salt, an amine salt, including an amino alcohol salt, and/or a magnesium salt. These salts preferably contain 2 to 5 ethylene oxide groups.

The anionic surfactant (ii) is preferably selected from (C8-C14) alkyl sulfates and/or (C8-C14) alkyl ether sulfates, more preferably (C12-C14) alkyl sulfates and/or (C12-C14) alkyl ether sulfates, still more preferably lauryl (ether) sulfate.

For example of sodium, triethanolamine, magnesium or ammonium vinylated with 1 to 10mol of ethylene oxide ₁₂ -C ₁₄ ) Of alkyl sulfates and/or of sodium, ammonium or magnesium (C) ₁₂ -C ₁₄ ) Alkyl ether sulfates are more preferably used.

Still more preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) (ii) are chosen from sodium, ammonium or magnesium (C) vinylated with 2.2mol of ethylene oxide ₁₂ -C ₁₄ ) Alkyl ether sulfates, such as those sold under the name Texapon N702 by the company Corning (Cognis).

The anionic surfactant(s) (ii) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 3.5% to 18% by weight and better still from 4% to 15% by weight, even better still from 4.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the total content of anionic surfactants (i) and (ii) in the composition according to the invention is from 0.1% to 35% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight and preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Nonionic surfactant (iii)

The composition comprises one or more nonionic surfactants selected from the group consisting of:

(a) Oxyethylenated alcohols comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8 to C40 hydrocarbyl chain and comprising from 1 to 100mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40mol of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains;

(b) Non-ionic surfactants of the hydrocarbyl (poly) glycoside type, in particular represented by the general formula: R1O- (R2O) t- (G) v

Wherein:

-R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or a hydrocarbylphenyl group, the linear or branched hydrocarbyl group of which comprises from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

-R2 represents an alkylene group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

-G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

-t denotes a value in the range of 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4,

-v indicates a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; and/or

(c) Polyethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, preferably containing from 2 to 40mol of ethylene oxide and comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 to C40, preferably C10-C28, alkyl chain (fatty acid);

(d) Fatty acid esters of sucrose, preferably comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C8 to C40 hydrocarbyl chain, preferably a C10-C28 hydrocarbyl chain (fatty acid), such as sucrose cocoate and sucrose palmitate; and/or

(e) Polyglycerolated fatty esters, the number of glycerol groups being in the range from 2 to 30 and comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C8 to C40 alkyl chain, preferably a C10-C28 alkyl chain (fatty acid), such as polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-6-dicaprate.

Preferably, these hydrocarbyl (poly) glycoside surfactants are compounds having the above formula, wherein:

-R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

-R2 represents an alkylene group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

-t indicates a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,

-G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, may range from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2.

The glycosidic linkages between the saccharide units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the hydrocarbyl (poly) glycoside surfactant is a hydrocarbyl (poly) glucoside surfactant. Most particularly preferred is C ₈ /C ₁₆ Hydrocarbyl (poly) glucosides 1,4 and in particular decyl glucoside and octanoyl/decanoyl glucoside.

Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the company Cognis (Cognis) to

(600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or

(818, 1200, and 2000); by SEPPIC corporation as Oramix CG 110 and

the product sold under the name NS 10;a product sold under the name Lutensol GD 70 by basf or under the name AG10 LK by Chem Y.

Preferably, C is used ₈ /C ₁₆ Hydrocarbyl (poly) glycosides 1,4, especially in 53% aqueous solution, such as by corning incorporated by reference

818UP those sold.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is selected, alone or as a mixture, from:

saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated C ₈ To C ₄₀ In particular C ₈ -C ₂₀ And also preferably C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ A fatty alcohol comprising from 1 to 100mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 or even from 3 to 20mol of ethylene oxide; in particular lauryl alcohol containing 4mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: laureth-4) and lauryl alcohol containing 12mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: laureth-12); and

- (C6-C24 hydrocarbyl) (poly) glycoside, and more particularly (C8-C18 hydrocarbyl) (poly) glycoside.

Still better, the nonionic surfactant is preferably chosen from those comprising at least one C ₈ -C ₂₀ And also better C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ Hydrocarbon-chain oxyethylenated alcohols comprising from 2 to 50 and in particular from 3 to 20mol of ethylene oxide.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least two nonionic surfactants, preferably chosen from surfactants comprising at least one C ₈ -C ₂₀ And also better C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ An oxyethylenated alcohol of a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 2 to 50 and in particular from 3 to 20mol of ethylene oxide.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 2% to 15% by weight, in particular ranging from 3% to 10% by weight and better still ranging from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Amphoteric surfactant (iv)

As mentioned above, the composition comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants, which are preferably present in a total content greater than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, the one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants. They may in particular be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, wherein the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, such as a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

Mention may in particular be made of (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkyl betaine, (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkyl sulfobetaines, (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkylamide group (C) ₃ -C ₈ ) Alkyl betaines and (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkylamide group (C) ₆ -C ₈ ) An alkyl sulfobetaine.

Among the secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, which can be used as defined above, there can also be mentioned compounds having the following corresponding structures (II) and (III):

R _a -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N ⁺ (R _b )(R _c )-CH ₂ COO ^- ,M ⁺ ,X ^- (II)

wherein:

-R _a denotes an acid R derived from the acids preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil _a C of COOH ₁₀ To C ₃₀ Alkyl or alkenyl, or heptyl, nonyl or undecyl;

-R _b represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and is

-R _c Represents a carboxymethyl group;

-M ⁺ denotes a cationic counter-balance derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal such as sodiumIons, ammonium ions or ions derived from organic amines; and is

-X ^- Denotes an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as a counterion selected from among halides, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, (C) ₁ -C ₄ ) Alkyl sulfate radical, (C) ₁ -C ₄ ) Alkyl sulfonate or (C) ₁ -C ₄ ) Anionic counterions to alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or alternatively, M ⁺ And X ^- Is absent;

R _a' -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N(B)(B') (III)

wherein:

-B represents a group-CH ₂ CH ₂ OX'；

-B' represents a group- (CH) ₂ ) _z Y', wherein z =1 or 2;

-X' represents a group-CH ₂ COOH、-CH ₂ -COOZ’、-CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH or-CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;

-Y 'represents a group-COOH, -COOZ' or-CH ₂ -CH(OH)SO ₃ H or a group CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ -Z'；

-Z' represents a cationic counterion produced by an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion produced by an organic amine;

-R _a’ denotes the acid R preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolysed linseed oil _a’ C of-COOH ₁₀ To C ₃₀ Alkyl or alkenyl, or hydrocarbon radicals, especially C ₁₇ Group, and isomeric forms thereof, or unsaturated C ₁₇ A group.

These compounds were classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5 th edition 1993, under the names of disodium cocoyl amphodiacetate, disodium lauroyl amphodiacetate, disodium decanoyl amphodiacetate, disodium octanoyl amphodiacetate, disodium cocoyl amphodipropionate, disodium lauroyl amphodipropionate, disodium decanoyl amphodipropionate, disodium octanoyl amphodipropionate, disodium lauroyl amphodipropionate and cocoyl amphodipropionate.

By way of example, mention may be made of the trade name Rhodia (Rhodia) manufactured by Rhodia

Cocoyl amphodiacetate sold by C2M Concentrate.

Compounds having formula (IV) may also be used:

R _a” -NHCH(Y”)-(CH ₂ ) _n CONH(CH ₂ ) _n' -N(R _d )(R _e ) (IV)

wherein:

-Y 'represents a group-COOH, -COOZ' or-CH ₂ -CH(OH)SO ₃ H or a group CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ -Z”；

-R _d And R _e Independently of one another represent C ₁ To C ₄ An alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group;

-Z "represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

-R _a” denotes the acid R preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolysed linseed oil _a” C of-COOH ₁₀ To C ₃₀ An alkyl or alkenyl group;

n and n' independently of one another denote an integer in the range from 1 to 3.

Among the compounds of formula (II), mention may be made of the compounds classified under the name diethylaminopropyl coco-asparagine sodium in the CTFA dictionary and sold under the name Chimexane HB by the company chemann (Chimex).

These compounds may be used alone or as a mixture.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, use is preferably made of (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkyl betaines such as cocoyl betaine, (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkylamide group (C) ₃ -C ₈ ) Alkyl betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof, and compounds having formula (IV) such as diethylaminopropylLauryl aminosuccinamic acid sodium salt (INCI name: diethylaminopropyl coco asparagine sodium salt).

Preferably, these amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkylamide group (C) ₃ -C ₈ ) Alkyl betaines, such as cocamidopropyl betaine.

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3.5% to 15% by weight and better still from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Antidandruff agent

Antidandruff agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention are preferably selected from:

1) Pyrithione salts, especially calcium, magnesium, barium, strontium, zinc, cadmium, tin and zirconium salts. The zinc salt of pyrithione is particularly preferred.

The zinc salt of pyrithione is in particular sold under the name Omadine zinc by the azithromycin Personal Care company (Arch Personal Care) or zinc pyrithione.

2) Especially 1-hydroxy-2-pyrrolidone derivatives represented by the following formula:

wherein:

-R9 represents an alkyl group having 1 to 17 carbon atoms, an alkenyl group having 2 to 17 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group having 5 to 8 carbon atoms, a bicycloalkyl group having 7 to 9 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl (-alkyl) group, an aryl group, an aralkyl group having an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, an arylalkenyl group having an alkenyl group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, an aryloxyalkyl group or an arylmercaptoalkyl group having an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a furanylalkenyl group having an alkenyl group or a furanyl group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, an alkoxy group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a nitro group, a cyano group or a halogen atom; preferably, R9 represents an alkyl group having 1 to 17 carbon atoms, an alkenyl group having 2 to 17 carbon atoms, or an alkoxy group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

-R10 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, a C2-C4 alkenyl group, a halogen atom, a phenyl group, a benzyl group; preferably, R10 denotes a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or a C2-C4 alkenyl group;

x represents an organic base, an alkali or alkaline earth metal ion or an ammonium ion.

Among the compounds included in this formula, mention may be made of examples including 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-2-pyridone, 1-hydroxy-6-methyl-2-pyridone, 1-hydroxy-4,6-dimethyl-2-pyridone, 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimethylpentyl) -2-pyridone, 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-cyclohexyl-2-pyridone, 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (methylcyclohexyl) -2-pyridone, 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2-bicyclo [2,2,1] heptyl) -2-pyridone, 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (4-methylphenyl) -2-pyridone, 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- [1- (4-nitrophenoxy) butyl ] -2-pyridone, 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (4-cyanophenoxymethyl) -2-pyridone, 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (4-methylphenoxy) -2-pyridone, and 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- [1- (4-nitrophenoxy) butyl ] -2-pyridone, and bromobenzyl-one.

These compounds may be used in the form of salts with organic or inorganic bases.

Examples of organic bases are especially low molecular weight alkanolamines, such as ethanolamine, diethanolamine, N-ethylethanolamine, triethanolamine, diethylaminoethanol and 2-amino-2-methylpropanediol; non-volatile bases such as ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, cyclohexylamine, benzylamine and N-methylpiperazine; quaternary ammonium hydroxides, such as trimethylbenzyl hydroxide; guanidines and derivatives thereof, and in particular alkyl derivatives thereof.

Examples of inorganic bases are especially salts of alkali metals (e.g. sodium or potassium); salts of alkaline earth metals (such as magnesium or calcium); an ammonium salt; salts of divalent, trivalent or tetravalent cationic metals, such as zinc, aluminum or zirconium.

Alkanolamines, ethylenediamine and inorganic bases (e.g., alkali metal salts) are preferred.

Particularly preferred compounds are those wherein R10 denotes methyl and R9 denotes CH3-C (CH 3)2-CH2-CH (CH 3) -CH 2-group, and X + denotes H3N ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ A compound of OH.

This compound is sold, for example, by the firm Hoechst (Hoechst) under the name Octopirox (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimethylpentyl) -2-pyridone, monoethanolamine salt) (INCI name: piroctone Olamine (Piroctone Olamine)).

3) 2,2' -dithiobis (pyridine N-oxide) having the formula:

these compounds may be incorporated into the composition in the form of inorganic salts. An example of an inorganic salt is magnesium sulfate.

4) Trihalogenated carbonyldiamines, in particular of the formula:

wherein Z represents a halogen atom (e.g., chlorine) or a C1-C4 trihaloalkyl group (e.g., CF 3).

5) Triclosan represented by the formula:

6) Azole compounds, such as climbazole, ketoconazole, clotrimazole, econazole, isoconazole and miconazole.

7) Selenium sulphide, in particular those of formula SxSe8-x, wherein x is in the range of 1 to 7.

8) An extract of one or more non-photosynthetic, non-spore-forming (non-fruiting) filamentous bacteria.

The bacterial extract which may be used according to the invention will preferably be selected from the group of non-photosynthetic, non-sporulating filamentous bacteria as defined according to the classification of Bergey's Manual of systematic Bacteriology, volume 3, section 23,9th edition 1989[ Boger's Manual of systematic Bacteriology, vol.3, section 23,9th edition 1989 ].

Among the bacteria that can be used, mention is more particularly made of bacteria belonging to the order beggaratoriales (beggiatales), and in particular to bacteria belonging to the genus beggaratoa (Beggiotoa), such as the respective strains of beggaratorias albus (Beggiotoa alba). Atrophaeus albus (b.alba) corresponds, by definition, to the top names of bergeotoa arachnoid, b.gigantea, b.leptomoformis, b.minima, and b.mirabilis of Bergey's manual,8th edition [ bojie's manual,8th edition ]. Furthermore, bacteria belonging to the Vitreoscilla genus (Vitreoscilla) can be mentioned, which are known to be very close to Bei Ri Atlantic bacteria and are often very difficult to distinguish from each other. The bacteria just defined, as well as several bacteria already described therein, are generally of aquatic habitats and can be found in spring water sources in particular.

Among the bacteria that can be used, mention may be made, for example, of the species Bei Shijun Vitrooscilla (Vitroscilla beggiatides) (ATCC 43181) and Beggiatoa alba (Beggiatoa alba) (ATCC 33555), and preferably, extracts of Vitrooscilla filiformis (Vitroscilla filiformis) (in particular strain ATCC 15551), metabolites thereof and fractions thereof.

Furthermore, it is known that culturing non-photosynthetic, non-spore-forming filamentous bacteria is relatively difficult, as is the production of pure cultures. Preferably, the culture described in patent application WO 94/02158 is used.

The term "extract of a non-photosynthetic, non-spore-forming filamentous bacterium" means not only a culture supernatant but also an extract of a biomass obtained after culturing the bacterium, an envelope or an envelope part or a biomass obtained by treating the biomass.

For the preparation of the extract according to the invention, the bacteria may be cultured and then separated from the obtained biomass, for example by filtration, centrifugation, coagulation and/or freeze-drying.

In particular, the extracts that can be used can be prepared according to the process described in patent application WO-A-93/00741. Therefore, after cultivation, the bacteria were concentrated by centrifugation. The biomass obtained is autoclaved. This biomass may be freeze-dried to constitute a so-called freeze-dried extract. Any lyophilization method known to those skilled in the art may be used to prepare this extract.

The supernatant portion of the biomass may also be filtered in a sterile vessel to remove particles from the suspension.

The terms "envelope" and "envelope portion" refer herein to the bacterial wall and possibly the underlying membrane.

9) Antifungal polymers, such as amphotericin B or nystatin.

10 Other antidandruff agents are sulfur, cadmium sulfide, allantoin, coal or wood tar and derivatives thereof in their various forms, in particular juniper oil, salicylic acid, undecylenic acid, fumaric acid; ellagic acid, its ethers, ellagic acid salts, and its ethers; ellagic acid tannins and allylamines (e.g., terbinafine).

Zinc pyrithione, (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimethylpentyl) -2-pyridone) and salts thereof, ellagic acid and salts thereof, and selenium sulfide are particularly preferred.

Preferably, the antidandruff agent is soluble in the composition of the invention at a temperature of 25 ℃ and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

Even more preferably, it is soluble in water at a concentration greater than or equal to 0.2% at a temperature of 25 ℃ and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

Antidandruff agent (v) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cationic polymers

The cosmetic composition may also comprise one or more cationic polymers preferably having a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 4 milliequivalents per gram (meq./g).

The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charge per unit mass of the polymer under conditions in which it is fully ionized. If the structure of the polymer (i.e., the structure of the monomers making up the polymer and their molar or weight proportions) is known, the cationic charge density can be determined by calculation. The cationic charge density can also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" denotes any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

Cationic polymers which may be used preferably have a molecular weight of about 500 to 5X 10 ⁶ And preferably about 10 ³ And 3X 10 ⁶ Weight average molar mass (Mw) between.

Among these cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of:

(1) A homopolymer or copolymer derived from an ester or amide of acrylic or methacrylic acid and comprising at least one of the units having the formula:

wherein:

-R ₃ may be the same or different and denotes a hydrogen atom or CH ₃ A group;

-a, which may be identical or different, represents a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyhydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

-R ₄ 、R ₅ and R ₆ Which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

-R ₁ and R ₂ Which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl or ethyl radical;

x represents an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as a methylsulfate anion or a halide ion such as chloride or bromide.

The copolymer of family (1) may also comprise one or more units derived from comonomers, which may be selected from the families: acrylamide, methacrylamide, diacetoneacrylamide, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower (C1-C4) hydrocarbon radicals, acrylic or methacrylic esters, vinyllactams, such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:

copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with dimethyl halides, such as the products sold under the name Hercofloc by the Hercules company (Hercules),

copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the product sold under the name Bina Quat P100 by Ciba-Jiay (Ciba Geigy),

copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the firm Hercules,

-vinylpyrrolidone/dihydrocarbylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, quaternized or not, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for example Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as copolymers 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in french patents 2 077 and 2 393 573;

dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,

-vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymer, such as the one sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by the company ISP;

quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers, such as those sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP,

preferably, methacryloxy groups(C ₁ -C ₄ ) Hydrocarbyl tri (C) ₁ -C ₄ ) A crosslinked polymer of a hydrocarbyl ammonium salt, such as a polymer obtained by: homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or copolymerization of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, which homopolymerization or copolymerization is followed by crosslinking with ethylenically unsaturated compounds, especially methylenebisacrylamide. A crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil can be used more particularly. This dispersion is known by the name Ciba

Sold by SC 92. Crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl ammonium chloride homopolymers containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in liquid esters may also be used. These dispersions are known by the Ciba company

SC 95 and

sold by SC 96.

(2) Cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic cellulose and cationic galactomannan gums. Among these cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers and cationic galactomannan gums.

Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR 1 492 597, and polymers sold by the company ericchol under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) may be mentioned. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary amines of hydroxyethyl cellulose that have been reacted with epoxides substituted with trimethylammonium groups.

Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers are described in particular in U.S. Pat. No. 4 131 576 and mention may be made, for example, of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose or hydroxypropyl cellulose, grafted, in particular, with methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salts. Commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L200 and Celquat H100 by the National Starch company (National Starch).

Cationic galactomannan gums are more particularly described in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307, and guar gums containing cationic trihydrocarbyl ammonium groups may be mentioned. For example, guar modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (e.g., chloride) is used. Such products are sold in particular by the company Rhodia under the names Jaguar C13S, jaguar C15, jaguar C17 and Jaguar C162.

(3) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent hydrocarbylene or hydrocarbylene groups containing straight or branched chains optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulphur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings; and also oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers.

(4) Water-soluble polyaminoamides, in particular prepared by polycondensation of acidic compounds with polyamines; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked with epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, unsaturated dianhydrides, diunsaturated derivatives, bishalohols, bis-azetidinium, bis-haloacyldiamines, bis-hydrocarbyl halides, or alternatively with oligomers resulting from the reaction of difunctional compounds reactive with bishalohydrins, bis-azetidinium, bis-haloacyldiamines, bis-hydrocarbyl halides, epihalohydrins, diepoxides, or diunsaturated derivatives; the cross-linking agent is used in a proportion ranging from 0.025 to 0.35mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides may be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, they may be quaternized.

(5) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylenepolyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with bifunctional reagents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminoalkylenedialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/dimethylaminopropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold by the company Sandoz under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8.

(6) A polymer obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is preferably between 0.8; the resulting polyaminoamide is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine groups of the polyaminoamide preferably between 0.5 and 1.8. Polymers of this type are sold in particular by the company Hercosett 57 or, in addition, by the company Hercules under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 in the case of adipic acid/glycidyl/diethylenetriamine copolymers.

(7) Cyclized polymers of alkyldiallylamines or dialkyldiallylammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers containing as main component of the chain units corresponding to the formulae (I) or (II):

wherein

-k and t equal 0 or 1, the sum k + t equal 1;

-R ₁₂ indicates a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;

-R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ Independently of one another denote C ₁ -C ₆ Alkyl radical, C ₁ -C ₅ Hydroxyalkyl radical, C ₁ -C ₄ An amidoalkyl group; or alternatively, R ₁₀ And R ₁₁ Can be used forTogether with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached represent a heterocyclyl group, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; r ₁₀ And R ₁₁ Independently of one another preferably represents C ₁ -C ₄ An alkyl group;

-Y ^- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, or phosphate.

Mention may be made more particularly of homopolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chlorides) such as those sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco (Nalco) and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chlorides) and of acrylamide, in particular those sold under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7 SPR.

(8) A quaternary diammonium polymer comprising repeating units having the formula:

wherein:

-R ₁₃ 、R ₁₄ 、R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ May be the same or different and represents an aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or arylaliphatic radical comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or C ₁ -C ₁₂ A hydroxyalkyl aliphatic group, a hydroxy alkyl aliphatic group,

or in addition R ₁₃ 、R ₁₄ 、R ₁₅ And R ₁₆ Together or separately from the nitrogen atom to which they are attached to form a heterocyclic ring optionally containing a second non-nitrogen heteroatom;

or in addition R ₁₃ 、R ₁₄ 、R ₁₅ And R ₁₆ Is represented by a nitrile, an ester, an acyl, an amide or-CO-O-R ₁₇ -D or-CO-NH-R ₁₇ Straight-chain or branched C substituted by a group D ₁ -C ₆ Alkyl radical, wherein R ₁₇ Is alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

-A ₁ and B ₁ Denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, divalent polymethylene radical comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may contain linkages to the main chain or interpositioning thereofOne or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, hydrocarbylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups of the chain, and

-X ^- denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid;

it is understood that A ₁ 、R ₁₃ And R ₁₅ May form a piperazine ring with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached;

furthermore, if A ₁ Represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydrocarbylene radical, B ₁ May also represent a group (CH) ₂ )n-CO-D-OC-(CH ₂ ) p-, wherein n and p, which may be the same or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D represents:

a) A diol residue having the formula-O-Z-O-, wherein Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbyl group, or a group corresponding to one of the formulae: - (CH) ₂ CH ₂ O)x-CH ₂ CH ₂ -and- [ CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )O]y-CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ ) -, where x and y represent integers from 1 to 4 (representing a determined and unique degree of polymerization); or any number from 1 to 4 (representing the average degree of polymerization);

b) A bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative;

c) A bis-primary diamine residue of the formula-NH-Y-NH-, wherein Y represents a linear or branched hydrocarbyl group, or an additional divalent group-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -S-S-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -；

d) A ureylene group having the formula-NH-CO-NH-.

Preferably, X ^- Is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100 000.

Mention may be made more particularly of polymers constituted by recurring units corresponding to the formula:

wherein R is ₁ 、R ₂ 、R ₃ And R ₄ Which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X ^- Are anions derived from inorganic or organic acids.

Particularly preferred compounds of the formula (IV) are those in which R is ₁ 、R ₂ 、R ₃ And R ₄ Represents methyl and n =3, p =6 and X = Cl, which is called, according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature, hyamine chloride (Hexadimethrine chloride).

(9) A polyquaternary polymer comprising units having the formula (V):

wherein:

-R ₁₈ 、R ₁₉ 、R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ Which may be the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, beta-hydroxyethyl, beta-hydroxypropyl or-CH group ₂ CH ₂ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) A pOH group, wherein p is equal to 0 or an integer from 1 to 6, with the proviso that R ₁₈ 、R ₁₉ 、R ₂₀ And R ₂₁ Does not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom at the same time,

-r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,

q is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 34,

-X ^- denotes an anion, such as a halide,

-A represents a divalent dihalide group or preferably-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -。

Examples which may be mentioned include the products sold by the company Miranol (Miranol)

A 15、

AD1、

AZ1 and

175。

(10) Tetrapolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, for example under the name BASF by the company BASF

FC 905, FC 550, and FC 370.

(11) Polyamines, e.g. sold by Cognis

H, referred to by the name polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.

(12) A polymer comprising in its structure:

(a) One or more units corresponding to the following formula (A):

(b) Optionally, one or more units corresponding to the following formula (B):

in other words, these polymers may be chosen in particular from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising in their structure: from 5 to 100mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferably from 10 to 100mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).

These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in an acidic or basic medium.

The weight average molecular weight of the polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1000, and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000g/mol.

Polymers comprising units having formula (a) and optionally units having formula (B) are sold in particular by the company basf under the name Lupamin, such as, for example and in a non-limiting manner, the products provided under the names Lupamin 9095, lupamin 5095, lupamin 1095, lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.

Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the present invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates; polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines; a polymer comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units; condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin; ji Juya ureido and chitin derivatives.

Preferably, the cationic polymer is selected from those belonging to families (1), (2), (7) and (10) above.

Among the above cationic polymers, cationic polymers which can be preferably used are: cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic cellulose and cationic galactomannan gums, and in particular quaternary cellulose ether derivatives (such as the products sold by the company Emamegao under the name JR 400), cationically cyclized polymers, in particular dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymers or copolymers (sold by the company Narco under the names Merquat 100, merquat 550 and Merquat S), quaternary ammonium polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxy (C1-C4) alkyltri (C1-C4) alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

The total content of cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight.

Amphoteric polymers

The cosmetic composition may also comprise one or more amphoteric polymers.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "amphoteric polymer" denotes any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer which contains cationic groups and/or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups and also anionic groups and/or groups which can be ionized into anionic groups.

The amphoteric polymer may preferably be selected from the following amphoteric polymers comprising a repetition of:

(i) One or more units derived from a (meth) acrylamide-type monomer,

(ii) One or more units derived from a (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-type monomer, and

(iii) One or more units derived from a (meth) acrylic acid monomer.

Preferably, the units derived from the (meth) acrylamide-type monomer are units having the following structure (Ia):

wherein R is ₁ Represents H or CH ₃ And R is ₂ Selected from amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino, dodecylamino and-NH-CH ₂ An OH group.

Preferably, the amphiphilic polymer comprises only one repeat of the unit having formula (Ia).

Units derived from (meth) acrylamide-type monomers having the formula (Ia) wherein R is particularly preferred ₁ Represents H and R ₂ Is amino (NH) ₂ ). It corresponds to the acrylamide monomer itself.

Preferably, the units derived from monomers of the (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type are units having the following structure (IIa):

wherein:

-R ₃ represents H or CH ₃ ，

-R ₄ Represents a group (CH) ₂ ) k, wherein k is an integer ranging from 1 to 6 and preferably from 2 to 4;

-R ₅ 、R ₆ and R ₇ May be the same or different and represents C ₁ -C ₄ An alkyl group, a carboxyl group,

-Y ^- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, or phosphate.

Preferably, the amphoteric polymer comprises only one repeat of a unit having formula (IIa).

Among these units of formula (IIa) derived from monomers of the (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, the preferred units are those derived from methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomers in which R is ₃ Represents methyl, k is 3,R ₅ 、R ₆ And R ₇ Represents a methyl group, and Y ^- Represents a chloride anion.

Preferably, the units derived from the (meth) acrylic acid type monomers are units having formula (IIIa):

wherein R is ₈ Represents H or CH ₃ And R is ₉ Represents a hydroxyl group or-NH-C (CH) ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ -SO ₃ And (4) an H group.

Preferred units of formula (IIIa) correspond to acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomers.

Preferably, the units derived from (meth) acrylic acid type monomers having formula (IIIa) are units derived from acrylic acid, wherein R ₈ Represents a hydrogen atom and R ₉ Represents a hydroxyl group.

The acid monomers of the (meth) acrylic acid type may be non-neutral or partially or totally neutralized by an organic or inorganic base.

Preferably, the amphiphilic polymer comprises only one repeat of a unit having formula (IIIa).

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymers of this type comprise at least 30mol% of units derived from monomers of the (meth) acrylamide type (i). Preferably, they comprise from 30 to 70mol% and more preferably from 40 to 60mol% of units derived from a (meth) acrylamide type monomer.

The content of units (ii) derived from monomers of the (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type can advantageously be from 10 to 60mol% and preferably from 20 to 55mol%.

The content of units (iii) derived from (meth) acrylic acid type acidic monomers may advantageously be from 1 to 20mol% and preferably from 5 to 15mol%.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer of this type comprises:

from 30 to 70mol% and more preferably from 40 to 60mol% of units (i) derived from a monomer of the (meth) acrylamide type,

from 10 to 60mol% and preferably from 20 to 55mol%

Units derived from a monomer of the (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii), and

from 1 to 20mol% and preferably from 5 to 15mol% of units (iii) derived from monomers of the (meth) acrylic type.

This type of amphoteric polymer may also contain additional units other than those derived from the (meth) acrylamide-type monomer, the (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-type monomer, and the (meth) acrylic-type monomer, as described above.

However, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer is composed exclusively of units derived from monomers of the (meth) acrylamide type (i), (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii), and (meth) acrylic acid type (iii).

Mention may be made, as examples of particularly preferred amphoteric polymers, of acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers. These polymers are listed in the CTFA dictionary (INCI) under the name "polyquaternium 53". Corresponding products are sold in particular by the Nalco company under the names Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR.

As another type of amphoteric polymer that can be used, there may also be mentioned copolymers based on (meth) acrylic acid and a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as a copolymer of (meth) acrylic acid and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride. An example which may be mentioned is Merquat 280 sold by Nalcok.

The amphoteric polymer(s) may generally be present in the composition according to the invention in a total amount of from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and more particularly from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises:

-one or more anionic surfactants (I) selected from polyoxyalkylenated hydrocarbyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, preferably having formula (I) as defined above;

-one or more anionic surfactants (ii) selected, for example, from sodium, triethanolamine, magnesium or ammonium (C12-C14) alkyl sulfates and/or sodium, ammonium or magnesium (C12-C14) alkyl ether sulfates oxyethylenated with 1 to 10mol of ethylene oxide;

-a total content of at least 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more nonionic surfactants selected, alone or as a mixture, from:

-saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyethylenated fatty alcohols comprising at least one C8 to C40, especially C8 to C20 and better still C10 to C18 hydrocarbyl chain and from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more especially from 2 to 40, or even from 3 to 20, moles of ethylene oxide, and lauryl alcohol containing 12 moles of ethylene oxide; and

- (C6-C24 hydrocarbyl) (poly) glycoside, and more particularly (C8-C18 hydrocarbyl) (poly) glycoside;

-one or more amphoteric surfactants in a total content of at least 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, said amphoteric surfactants comprising one or more surfactants chosen from (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkyl betaines, (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkyl sulfobetaines, (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkylamide group (C) ₃ -C ₈ ) Alkyl betaines and (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkylamide group (C) ₆ -C ₈ ) A surfactant of an alkyl sulfobetaine;

-one or more direct dyes, preferably selected from anionic direct dyes, alone or as a mixture;

-optionally, one or more cationic polymers preferably having a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 4meq/g, preferably chosen from dialkyldiallylammonium halide homopolymers; and

optionally, one or more amphoteric polymers, preferably consisting solely of units derived from monomers of the (i) acrylamide type, (ii) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and (iii) acrylic (meth) type.

The composition according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents selected from: c ₁ -C ₄ Alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a total water content ranging from 20% to 95% by weight, preferably from 30% to 90% by weight, preferably from 50% to 85% by weight and better still from 65% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the composition according to the invention is generally in the range from 3 to 9, preferably from 3 to 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6 and better still from 4 to 5.5.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more standard additives well known in the art, such as natural or synthetic thickeners or viscosity modifiers; c ₁₂ -C ₃₀ A fatty alcohol; a ceramide; c ₁₂ -C ₃₂ Fatty esters such as isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl stearate; mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils; vitamins or provitamins; a non-ionic or anionic polymer; a pH stabilizer, a preservative; a dye; spice: agent for preventing alopecia, and anti-seborrhea agent (anti-seborrhoeic agent).

The skilled person will take care to select the optional additives and their amounts so that they do not compromise the properties of the composition of the invention.

These additives are generally present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention can be used as shampoos for washing and conditioning the hair; in this case, the shampoo is preferably applied to the wet hair in an amount effective to wash the wet hair; the foam produced by massaging or rubbing by hand can then be removed by rinsing with water after an optional dwell time, which operation can be repeated one or more times.

Method and use according to the invention

Another subject of the invention relates to a method for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said fibres of a composition as defined above, optionally followed by a leave-on time and/or rinsing and/or drying.

The composition may be applied to wet or dry hair, and preferably to wet or damp hair.

According to one embodiment, the method comprises applying an effective amount of the composition according to the invention to the keratin fibres, optionally massaging the fibres, optionally leaving the composition resting on the fibres and rinsing.

The residence time of the composition on the keratin fibres may be between a few seconds and 15 minutes and preferably between 30 seconds and 5 minutes. The composition is typically rinsed off with water.

An optional step of drying the keratin fibers may be performed.

The invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention as described previously for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention, but are not limiting in nature.

Examples of the invention

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as percentages by weight of Active Material (AM).

The composition according to the invention can be used as an antidandruff shampoo.

1g of the composition was applied to 2.5g of natural hair tresses, and the tresses were then rinsed and dried. The tresses thus treated were found to have good conditioning properties, in particular a soft and smooth feel; the hair is easily disentangled, especially on wet hair.

Claims (15)

1. Cosmetic composition for keratin fibres, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

(i) From 3% to 10% by weight of one or more anionic surfactants selected from polyoxyalkylenated alkylether carboxylic acids of formula (1) and salts thereof:

wherein:

-R ₁ represents a C8-C18 hydrocarbon group,

-n is an integer or decimal in the range of 2 to 10,

-a indicates H, ammonium, na, K, li, mg or Ca;

(ii) 3.5% -18% by weight of one or more anionic surfactants selected from C ₈ -C ₁₄ Alkyl sulfates and C ₈ -C ₁₄ Alkyl ether sulfates;

(iii) 3-10% by weight of one or more nonionic surfactants selected from the group consisting of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyethylenated C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ A fatty alcohol, said alcohol comprising from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide;

(iv) 3.5% -15% by weight of one or more amphoteric surfactants selected from (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkyl betaines and (C) ₈ -C ₂₀ ) Alkylamide group (C) ₃ -C ₈ ) An alkyl betaine; and

(v) 0.1 wt% to 5 wt% of one or more antidandruff agents selected from compounds represented by the formula:

wherein:

-R9 represents an alkyl group having 1 to 17 carbon atoms, an alkenyl group having 2 to 17 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group having 5 to 8 carbon atoms, a bicycloalkyl group having 7 to 9 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl (-alkyl) group, an aryl group, an aralkyl group having an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, an arylalkenyl group having an alkenyl group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, an aryloxyalkyl group or an arylmercaptoalkyl group having an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a furanylalkenyl group having an alkenyl group or a furanyl group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, an alkoxy group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a nitro group, a cyano group or a halogen atom;

-R10 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, a C2-C4 alkenyl group, a halogen atom, a phenyl group or a benzyl group;

x represents an organic base, an alkali or alkaline earth metal ion or an ammonium ion.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyoxyalkylenated hydrocarbyl ether carboxylic acid is selected from those having formula (1):

wherein:

-R ₁ indicating a C12-C14 hydrocarbyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl group,

a denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

-n is in the range of 2 to 10.

3. The composition according to claim 1, comprising the one or more polyoxyalkylenated hydrocarbyl ether carboxylic acids and/or salts thereof in a total amount ranging from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the anionic surfactant (ii) is selected from C12-C14 alkyl sulphates and C12-C14 alkyl ether sulphates, alone or as a mixture.

5. A composition according to any one of claims 1-3, comprising the one or more anionic surfactants (ii) in a total content ranging from 4% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the non-ionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting ofSaturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ A fatty alcohol, said alcohol comprising from 3 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1-3, comprising a total content of said non-ionic surfactant ranging from 4% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1-3, comprising a total content of said amphoteric surfactant ranging from 4% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. A composition according to any one of claims 1-3, wherein the antidandruff agent is selected from 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimethylpentyl) -2-pyridone and salts thereof.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1-3, comprising a total content of said antidandruff agent ranging from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition of any one of claims 1-3, further comprising one or more cationic polymers.

12. The composition of any one of claims 1-3, further comprising one or more amphoteric polymers.

13. The composition of any one of claims 1-3, comprising water.

14. A non-therapeutic method for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, comprising the application to the fibres of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 13, followed by an optional dwell time and/or rinsing and/or drying.

15. Non-therapeutic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres.