CN109567294A - A kind of sewing of elastic force lining and method of cutting out - Google Patents

A kind of sewing of elastic force lining and method of cutting out Download PDF

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Publication number
CN109567294A
CN109567294A CN201910076730.2A CN201910076730A CN109567294A CN 109567294 A CN109567294 A CN 109567294A CN 201910076730 A CN201910076730 A CN 201910076730A CN 109567294 A CN109567294 A CN 109567294A
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China
Prior art keywords
cut
parts
fabric
sewing
elastic force
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Pending
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CN201910076730.2A
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
沈应琴
翟国斌
郑红生
刘军
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ZHEJIANG JODOLL GARMENTS Co Ltd
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ZHEJIANG JODOLL GARMENTS Co Ltd
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Priority to CN201910076730.2A priority Critical patent/CN109567294A/en
Publication of CN109567294A publication Critical patent/CN109567294A/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H42/00Multi-step production lines for making clothes

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

The present invention relates to clothing technology fields, and the invention discloses a kind of sewing of elastic force lining and method of cutting out, including paving cloth, cutting, sewing and its rear processing step.The present invention can be good at solving to occur during cut-parts size careless mistake and improve the aesthetics of ready-made clothes, and operating procedure and points for attention are detailed.

Description

A kind of sewing of elastic force lining and method of cutting out
Technical field
The present invention relates to the sewing of clothing technology field more particularly to a kind of elastic force lining and method of cutting out.
Background technique
Elastic force lining uses newest high resiliency polymer fiber for raw material, cooperates the spray formula loom of import to weave, bullet Property foot, fastness is strong, and resilience is preferable, allows and possesses elasticity as traditional tatting lining mystery, and cloth cover is fine and smooth soft, smooth, touches skin Feel, through overflow dyeing antistatic process, has more consolidated the Optimality of product, it is capable of expansion and contraction, feel more comfortable.
Elastic force lining in the prior art usually will appear the deviation of size, to lead during cutting with sewing Cause the appearance of ready-made clothes that expected effect is not achieved, and step is not simply rigorous, therefore is unfavorable for promoting.
Summary of the invention
The invention proposes a kind of sewing of elastic force lining and method of cutting out, to solve mentioned above in the background art ask Topic.
The invention proposes a kind of sewing of elastic force lining and method of cutting out, include the following steps:
S1, paving cloth: each layer of fabric is uniformly paved, does not allow fabric occur when paving, there is showing for fold on table top As the situation that is irregular, stretching tension and pine excessively between fabric being avoided the occurrence of, for direction during stone Property elastic force lining should also keep the consistency in fabric direction, need the needle point of the tuck of tuck positioning stone to want sharp, hang Needle should not be excessively thick, needle position when will outside cut-parts line 0.3-0.8cm;
The calculating of S2, size: material needs to measure fabric before being cut over there, and with pencil on the surface of fabric Carry out marking;
Specific step is as follows for S3, cut-parts:
(1), it bounces back naturally: being to open fabric to be cut out, be placed in the environment of gravity-flow ventilation and shrink 18-22 hours;
(2), route: under the premise of guaranteeing cut-parts quality, knife smoothly gone out from feed and conveniently reasonably selected, feed route is not Along will affect push broach quality with working efficiency, when push broach, should meet three first after three;
(3), the cutter track of cut-parts is clear: cutting edge wants straight, round and smooth, and there can be no notch and sawtooth;
(4), guarantee that cut-parts are accurate when cut-parts, the lines on each side of cut-parts should be consistent with template, guarantee that cut-parts meet left and right It is symmetrical to require;
(5), it is accurate to be positioned to when opening the edge of a knife, and the width of clip is maintained at 1-3MM, when multilayer is cut, guarantees each layer The equivalent width of fabric clip;
S4, specific step is as follows for sewing:
M1, deburring: by the blank fabric after cut-parts, chalk flash is removed, referring to the size deburring of template, pays attention to net plate and hair plates Differentiation;
M2, routing fourth: sewing label is made in cut-parts with white cotton, in sewing with using yarn identical with cut-parts color Line is sewed;
M3, suture: cutting off seam is saved, and width is in 0.2-0.4MM, the annular skill of handling needles blind stitching of the province that cuts off seam, according to the size of province, Garment piece front is opposite, and according to suture doubling in province, the alignment of province position upper and lower level eye knife, You Shenggen is seized to point is saved, and is being saved at point The end of a thread 1-3CM is stayed, is cut short after knotting;
M4, it saves seam and sits ironing or separated ironing, when ironing is placed on sutural lamina on cloth steamed bun, burns three-dimensional sense, avoids cutting out There is fold in the front of piece;
S5, post-processing: checking whether ironing-tables are clean before big scald, and steam reaches standard value, holds flatiron without tail water spilling side Can ironing, front edge is put smooth straight suitable, and cut-parts surface, which does not allow to have, scalds bright, watermark and branding, after the completion of ironing, It need to air-dry 2-3 hours.
Preferably, before carrying out S1 step, need first to check the money marked on the bra materials and design drawing taken Number whether it is consistent, whether fabric is complete, and found the abnormal situation should discuss jointly solution in time with designer and plate teacher's query status Certainly scheme.
Preferably, when occurring during carrying out S3 to not being with a batch of identical second of cutting of fabric progress, Reform shrinkage test;
Preferably, it carries out to mark using taper hole during S3, in case the appearance for influencing ready-made clothes is answered when being crossed It is crossed repeatedly when on fabric, finally carries out checking that whether smooth scribing line is straight suitable.
Preferably, diligent sharpening sheet is wanted in the cutting push broach that uses during carrying out S3, occur the edge of a knife go out it is indent and convex existing As when should timely replace, otherwise will appear the inaccurate problem of speed skate and the edge of a knife.
Preferably, it after the completion of S3, carries out testing piece, checks the specification of cut-parts, the size dimension of upper and lower cut-parts checks The case where whether there is or not wrong number and the no marking edges of a knife, in advance replaces faulty materials.
Preferably, during S3 is carried out, the waste material cut is cleaned up in time, keeps the clean and tidy of environment.
Preferably, (2) in S3 occur three first after three specifically: first cross feed, afterwards directly to operating on, over elder generation Mouthful, after open inner mouth, first open small pieces, after open sheet, to ensure that the quality of cut-parts has been improved efficiency.
A kind of sewing of elastic force lining proposed by the present invention and method of cutting out, beneficial effect are the sewing of the elastic force lining With method of cutting out, step is detailed, and points for attention enumerate out, consequently facilitating the viewing of producer, while this method energy The problem of dimensional discrepancy occurred during enough effective solution clothings, effectively raise the aesthetics of ready-made clothes.
Specific embodiment
It is next combined with specific embodiments below that the present invention will be further described.
Embodiment 1
A kind of sewing of elastic force lining and method of cutting out, include the following steps:
S1, paving cloth: each layer of fabric is uniformly paved, does not allow fabric occur when paving, there is showing for fold on table top As the situation that is irregular, stretching tension and pine excessively between fabric being avoided the occurrence of, for direction during stone Property elastic force lining should also keep the consistency in fabric direction, need the needle point of the tuck of tuck positioning stone to want sharp, hang Needle should not be excessively thick, and needle will need first to check the bra materials taken before carrying out S1 step by 0.3cm outside cut-parts line when positioning Whether be consistent with the money number marked on design drawing, whether fabric complete, found the abnormal situation should in time with designer and Plate teacher's query status, discusses solution jointly;
The calculating of S2, size: material needs to measure fabric before being cut over there, and with pencil on the surface of fabric Carry out marking;
Specific step is as follows for S3, cut-parts:
(1), it bounces back naturally: being to open fabric to be cut out, be placed in the environment of gravity-flow ventilation and shrink 18 hours;
(2), route: under the premise of guaranteeing cut-parts quality, knife smoothly gone out from feed and conveniently reasonably selected, feed route is not Along will affect push broach quality with working efficiency, when push broach, should meet three first after three, first cross feed, afterwards directly to operating on, over elder generation Mouthful, after open inner mouth, first open small pieces, after open sheet, to ensure that the quality of cut-parts has been improved efficiency;
(3), the cutter track of cut-parts is clear: cutting edge wants straight, round and smooth, and there can be no notch and sawtooth;
(4), guarantee that cut-parts are accurate when cut-parts, the lines on each side of cut-parts should be consistent with template, guarantee that cut-parts meet left and right It is symmetrical to require;
(5), it is accurate to be positioned to when opening the edge of a knife, and the width of clip is maintained at 1MM, when multilayer is cut, guarantees each layer of face Expect the equivalent width of clip;
When occurring during carrying out S3 to not being with a batch of identical second of cutting of fabric progress, shrinkage survey is reformed Examination, must not be marked using taper hole, in case influencing the appearance of ready-made clothes should be crossed repeatedly when being crossed on fabric, It finally carries out checking that whether smooth scribing line is straight suitable, diligent sharpening sheet is wanted in the cutting push broach used in the process, goes out to have there is the edge of a knife It should timely be replaced when the phenomenon of bumps, otherwise will appear the problem that speed skate and the edge of a knife are not allowed, needed during cut-parts It carries out testing piece, checks the specification of cut-parts, the size dimension of upper and lower cut-parts, the case where checking for wrong number and the no marking edge of a knife, Faulty materials are replaced in advance, clean up the waste material cut in time, keep the clean and tidy of environment,
S4, specific step is as follows for sewing:
M1, deburring: by the blank fabric after cut-parts, chalk flash is removed, referring to the size deburring of template, pays attention to net plate and hair plates Differentiation;
M2, routing fourth: sewing label is made in cut-parts with white cotton, in sewing with using yarn identical with cut-parts color Line is sewed;
M3, suture: cutting off seam is saved, and width is in 0.2MM, the annular skill of handling needles blind stitching of province's seam cut off, according to the size of province, by clothing Piece front is opposite, and according to suture doubling in province, the alignment of province position upper and lower level eye knife, You Shenggen is seized to point is saved, and stays line at point saving Head 1CM, cuts short after knotting;
M4, it saves seam and sits ironing or separated ironing, when ironing is placed on sutural lamina on cloth steamed bun, burns three-dimensional sense, avoids cutting out There is fold in the front of piece;
S5, post-processing: checking whether ironing-tables are clean before big scald, and steam reaches standard value, holds flatiron without tail water spilling side Can ironing, front edge is put smooth straight suitable, and cut-parts surface, which does not allow to have, scalds bright, watermark and branding, after the completion of ironing, It need to air-dry 2 hours.
Embodiment 2
A kind of sewing of elastic force lining and method of cutting out, include the following steps:
S1, paving cloth: each layer of fabric is uniformly paved, does not allow fabric occur when paving, there is showing for fold on table top As the situation that is irregular, stretching tension and pine excessively between fabric being avoided the occurrence of, for direction during stone Property elastic force lining should also keep the consistency in fabric direction, need the needle point of the tuck of tuck positioning stone to want sharp, hang Needle should not be excessively thick, and needle will need first to check the bra materials taken before carrying out S1 step by 0.6cm outside cut-parts line when positioning Whether be consistent with the money number marked on design drawing, whether fabric complete, found the abnormal situation should in time with designer and Plate teacher's query status, discusses solution jointly;
The calculating of S2, size: material needs to measure fabric before being cut over there, and with pencil on the surface of fabric Carry out marking;
Specific step is as follows for S3, cut-parts:
(1), it bounces back naturally: being to open fabric to be cut out, be placed in the environment of gravity-flow ventilation and shrink 20 hours;
(2), route: under the premise of guaranteeing cut-parts quality, knife smoothly gone out from feed and conveniently reasonably selected, feed route is not Along will affect push broach quality with working efficiency, when push broach, should meet three first after three, first cross feed, afterwards directly to operating on, over elder generation Mouthful, after open inner mouth, first open small pieces, after open sheet, to ensure that the quality of cut-parts has been improved efficiency;
(3), the cutter track of cut-parts is clear: cutting edge wants straight, round and smooth, and there can be no notch and sawtooth;
(4), guarantee that cut-parts are accurate when cut-parts, the lines on each side of cut-parts should be consistent with template, guarantee that cut-parts meet left and right It is symmetrical to require;
(5), it is accurate to be positioned to when opening the edge of a knife, and the width of clip is maintained at 2MM, when multilayer is cut, guarantees each layer of face Expect the equivalent width of clip;
When occurring during carrying out S3 to not being with a batch of identical second of cutting of fabric progress, shrinkage survey is reformed Examination, must not be marked using taper hole, in case influencing the appearance of ready-made clothes should be crossed repeatedly when being crossed on fabric, It finally carries out checking that whether smooth scribing line is straight suitable, diligent sharpening sheet is wanted in the cutting push broach used in the process, goes out to have there is the edge of a knife It should timely be replaced when the phenomenon of bumps, otherwise will appear the problem that speed skate and the edge of a knife are not allowed, needed during cut-parts It carries out testing piece, checks the specification of cut-parts, the size dimension of upper and lower cut-parts, the case where checking for wrong number and the no marking edge of a knife, Faulty materials are replaced in advance, clean up the waste material cut in time, keep the clean and tidy of environment,
S4, specific step is as follows for sewing:
M1, deburring: by the blank fabric after cut-parts, chalk flash is removed, referring to the size deburring of template, pays attention to net plate and hair plates Differentiation;
M2, routing fourth: sewing label is made in cut-parts with white cotton, in sewing with using yarn identical with cut-parts color Line is sewed;
M3, suture: cutting off seam is saved, and width is in 0.3MM, the annular skill of handling needles blind stitching of province's seam cut off, according to the size of province, by clothing Piece front is opposite, and according to suture doubling in province, the alignment of province position upper and lower level eye knife, You Shenggen is seized to point is saved, and stays line at point saving Head 2CM, cuts short after knotting;
M4, it saves seam and sits ironing or separated ironing, when ironing is placed on sutural lamina on cloth steamed bun, burns three-dimensional sense, avoids cutting out There is fold in the front of piece;
S5, post-processing: checking whether ironing-tables are clean before big scald, and steam reaches standard value, holds flatiron without tail water spilling side Can ironing, front edge is put smooth straight suitable, and cut-parts surface, which does not allow to have, scalds bright, watermark and branding, after the completion of ironing, It need to air-dry 2.5 hours.
Embodiment 3
A kind of sewing of elastic force lining and method of cutting out, include the following steps:
S1, paving cloth: each layer of fabric is uniformly paved, does not allow fabric occur when paving, there is showing for fold on table top As the situation that is irregular, stretching tension and pine excessively between fabric being avoided the occurrence of, for direction during stone Property elastic force lining should also keep the consistency in fabric direction, need the needle point of the tuck of tuck positioning stone to want sharp, hang Needle should not be excessively thick, and needle will need first to check the bra materials taken before carrying out S1 step by 0.8cm outside cut-parts line when positioning Whether be consistent with the money number marked on design drawing, whether fabric complete, found the abnormal situation should in time with designer and Plate teacher's query status, discusses solution jointly;
The calculating of S2, size: material needs to measure fabric before being cut over there, and with pencil on the surface of fabric Carry out marking;
Specific step is as follows for S3, cut-parts:
(1), it bounces back naturally: being to open fabric to be cut out, be placed in the environment of gravity-flow ventilation and shrink 22 hours;
(2), route: under the premise of guaranteeing cut-parts quality, knife smoothly gone out from feed and conveniently reasonably selected, feed route is not Along will affect push broach quality with working efficiency, when push broach, should meet three first after three, first cross feed, afterwards directly to operating on, over elder generation Mouthful, after open inner mouth, first open small pieces, after open sheet, to ensure that the quality of cut-parts has been improved efficiency;
(3), the cutter track of cut-parts is clear: cutting edge wants straight, round and smooth, and there can be no notch and sawtooth;
(4), guarantee that cut-parts are accurate when cut-parts, the lines on each side of cut-parts should be consistent with template, guarantee that cut-parts meet left and right It is symmetrical to require;
(5), it is accurate to be positioned to when opening the edge of a knife, and the width of clip is maintained at 3MM, when multilayer is cut, guarantees each layer of face Expect the equivalent width of clip;
When occurring during carrying out S3 to not being with a batch of identical second of cutting of fabric progress, shrinkage survey is reformed Examination, must not be marked using taper hole, in case influencing the appearance of ready-made clothes should be crossed repeatedly when being crossed on fabric, It finally carries out checking that whether smooth scribing line is straight suitable, diligent sharpening sheet is wanted in the cutting push broach used in the process, goes out to have there is the edge of a knife It should timely be replaced when the phenomenon of bumps, otherwise will appear the problem that speed skate and the edge of a knife are not allowed, needed during cut-parts It carries out testing piece, checks the specification of cut-parts, the size dimension of upper and lower cut-parts, the case where checking for wrong number and the no marking edge of a knife, Faulty materials are replaced in advance, clean up the waste material cut in time, keep the clean and tidy of environment,
S4, specific step is as follows for sewing:
M1, deburring: by the blank fabric after cut-parts, chalk flash is removed, referring to the size deburring of template, pays attention to net plate and hair plates Differentiation;
M2, routing fourth: sewing label is made in cut-parts with white cotton, in sewing with using yarn identical with cut-parts color Line is sewed;
M3, suture: cutting off seam is saved, and width is in 0.4MM, the annular skill of handling needles blind stitching of province's seam cut off, according to the size of province, by clothing Piece front is opposite, and according to suture doubling in province, the alignment of province position upper and lower level eye knife, You Shenggen is seized to point is saved, and stays line at point saving Head 3CM, cuts short after knotting;
M4, it saves seam and sits ironing or separated ironing, when ironing is placed on sutural lamina on cloth steamed bun, burns three-dimensional sense, avoids cutting out There is fold in the front of piece;
S5, post-processing: checking whether ironing-tables are clean before big scald, and steam reaches standard value, holds flatiron without tail water spilling side Can ironing, front edge is put smooth straight suitable, and cut-parts surface, which does not allow to have, scalds bright, watermark and branding, after the completion of ironing, It need to air-dry 3 hours.
The foregoing is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, but scope of protection of the present invention is not limited thereto, Anyone skilled in the art in the technical scope disclosed by the present invention, according to the technique and scheme of the present invention and its Inventive concept is subject to equivalent substitution or change, should be covered by the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims (8)

1. sewing and the method for cutting out of a kind of elastic force lining, which comprises the steps of:
S1, paving cloth: each layer of fabric is uniformly paved, does not allow fabric occur when paving, there is showing for fold on table top As the situation that is irregular, stretching tension and pine excessively between fabric being avoided the occurrence of, for direction during stone Property elastic force lining should also keep the consistency in fabric direction, need the needle point of the tuck of tuck positioning stone to want sharp, hang Needle should not be excessively thick, needle position when will outside cut-parts line 0.3-0.8cm;
The calculating of S2, size: material needs to measure fabric before being cut over there, and with pencil on the surface of fabric Carry out marking;
Specific step is as follows for S3, cut-parts:
(1), it bounces back naturally: being to open fabric to be cut out, be placed in the environment of gravity-flow ventilation and shrink 18-22 hours;
(2), route: under the premise of guaranteeing cut-parts quality, knife smoothly gone out from feed and conveniently reasonably selected, feed route is not Along will affect push broach quality with working efficiency, when push broach, should meet three first after three;
(3), the cutter track of cut-parts is clear: cutting edge wants straight, round and smooth, and there can be no notch and sawtooth;
(4), guarantee that cut-parts are accurate when cut-parts, the lines on each side of cut-parts should be consistent with template, guarantee that cut-parts meet left and right It is symmetrical to require;
(5), it is accurate to be positioned to when opening the edge of a knife, and the width of clip is maintained at 1-3MM, when multilayer is cut, guarantees each layer The equivalent width of fabric clip;
S4, specific step is as follows for sewing:
M1, deburring: by the blank fabric after cut-parts, chalk flash is removed, referring to the size deburring of template, pays attention to net plate and hair plates Differentiation;
M2, routing fourth: sewing label is made in cut-parts with white cotton, in sewing with using yarn identical with cut-parts color Line is sewed;
M3, suture: cutting off seam is saved, and width is in 0.2-0.4MM, the annular skill of handling needles blind stitching of the province that cuts off seam, according to the size of province, Garment piece front is opposite, and according to suture doubling in province, the alignment of province position upper and lower level eye knife, You Shenggen is seized to point is saved, and is being saved at point The end of a thread 1-3CM is stayed, is cut short after knotting;
M4, it saves seam and sits ironing or separated ironing, when ironing is placed on sutural lamina on cloth steamed bun, burns three-dimensional sense, avoids cutting out There is fold in the front of piece;
S5, post-processing: checking whether ironing-tables are clean before big scald, and steam reaches standard value, holds flatiron without tail water spilling side Can ironing, front edge is put smooth straight suitable, and cut-parts surface, which does not allow to have, scalds bright, watermark and branding, after the completion of ironing, It need to air-dry 2-3 hours.
2. sewing and the method for cutting out of a kind of elastic force lining according to claim 1, which is characterized in that carrying out S1 step Before, need first to check whether the money number marked on the bra materials and design drawing taken is consistent, whether fabric is complete, discovery Abnormal conditions should discuss jointly solution in time with designer and plate teacher's query status.
3. sewing and the method for cutting out of a kind of elastic force lining according to claim 1, which is characterized in that in the mistake for carrying out S3 When occurring in journey to not being with a batch of identical second of cutting of fabric progress, shrinkage test is reformed.
4. sewing and the method for cutting out of a kind of elastic force lining according to claim 1, which is characterized in that carry out the process of S3 In must not be marked using taper hole, in order to avoid influence ready-made clothes appearance should be crossed repeatedly on fabric when being crossed, It finally carries out checking that whether smooth scribing line is straight suitable.
5. sewing and the method for cutting out of a kind of elastic force lining according to claim 1, which is characterized in that carry out the process of S3 Used in cutting push broach want diligent sharpening sheet, should timely replace when the edge of a knife occur and going out indent and convex phenomenon, otherwise can go out The problem that existing speed skate and the edge of a knife are not allowed.
6. sewing and the method for cutting out of a kind of elastic force lining according to claim 1, which is characterized in that after the completion of S3, It carries out testing piece, checks the specification of cut-parts, the size dimension of upper and lower cut-parts checks for the feelings of wrong number and the no marking edge of a knife Condition in advance replaces faulty materials.
7. sewing and the method for cutting out of a kind of elastic force lining according to claim 1, which is characterized in that in the mistake that S3 is carried out Cheng Zhong cleans up the waste material cut in time, keeps the clean and tidy of environment.
8. sewing and the method for cutting out of a kind of elastic force lining according to claim 1, which is characterized in that (2) in S3 Three occurred are first after three specifically: first cross feed, afterwards directly to operating on, mouth over elder generation, after open inner mouth, first open small pieces, after open it is big Piece, to ensure that the quality of cut-parts has been improved efficiency.
CN201910076730.2A 2019-01-27 2019-01-27 A kind of sewing of elastic force lining and method of cutting out Pending CN109567294A (en)

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Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN1481220A (en) * 2001-02-01 2004-03-10 金顺善 Interlining for suit and method for making suit by using same
CN108813769A (en) * 2018-07-02 2018-11-16 浙江百先得服饰有限公司 A kind of suit sleeve is cut and sewing tech

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN1481220A (en) * 2001-02-01 2004-03-10 金顺善 Interlining for suit and method for making suit by using same
CN108813769A (en) * 2018-07-02 2018-11-16 浙江百先得服饰有限公司 A kind of suit sleeve is cut and sewing tech

Non-Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
包昌法: "《服装量裁缝烫技艺图解手册》", 31 March 1995, 中国纺织出版社 *
孙玉钗等主编: "《服装生产管理教程》", 31 May 2013, 东华大学出版社 *
李述田编: "《服装裁剪技术》", 31 May 1984, 山东科学技术出版社 *
蒋晓文: "《服装生产流程与管理技术》", 30 September 2003, 东华大学出版社 *

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Application publication date: 20190405