CN109487409A

CN109487409A - Weave vamp

Info

Publication number: CN109487409A
Application number: CN201811060535.2A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 安德鲁·伊普; 汤姆·奥海尔; 托马斯·亨伍德
Original assignee: Adidas AG
Current assignee: Adidas AG
Priority date: 2017-09-12
Filing date: 2018-09-12
Publication date: 2019-03-19
Anticipated expiration: 2038-09-12
Also published as: EP3453791A1; US20240016258A1; EP3453791B1; JP2019051306A; JP6717900B2; DE102017216026B4; CN109487409B; US20190075888A1; DE102017216026A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a kind of vamps, and it includes woven portions, and wherein the woven portion includes multiple warp thread；Multiple weft yarns；At least one sewing yarn, wherein the sewing yarn is, by being movable into and out the open reed gap of at least one of reed by the sewing yarn substantially along weft direction lateral displacement and by the sewing yarn, to carry out integral weaving into fabric during method for weaving.

Description

Weave vamp

1. technical field

The present invention relates to a kind of vamps, and it includes the sewing yarns and its production method of woven portion and integral weaving.

2. the prior art

Braiding provides big flexibility by changing local yarn content and braiding structure, to be used for different hardness and bullet The vamp of property.So the vamp of braiding enables to the foot of wearer to be more bonded and comfortable.But for harsh application examples If running, play soccer or many other sports for, the braided fabric needs additional enhancing, such as from band The enhancing of son followed by platform or external cage type system, which increase the complexity of production method and costs.For this reason, it weaves Material is a kind of alternative selection for such application, this is because they have lighter weight and higher than braided fabric Tensile strength.

Unfortunately, conventional woven technology cannot provide and weave identical flexibility to be used for engineered fabric.For For the weaving material produced on conventional textile loom, which be can be mainly by alternate warp thread and weft yarn come engineering Change.The limitation of the technology as caused by the consistency problem of different materials on warp thread beam is more serious than weaving.It is another it is important limitation be It based on any engineering for introducing different warp thread or weft yarn is carried out in a manner of Strict linear.So for example only can be with Realize enhancing using stronger yarn along warp thread (0 °) or weft yarn (90 °) direction, and so weaving material along basic Upper +/- 45 ° of " skew direction " in warp thread direction is often unstable.

So the mechanical performance of textile depends on the interaction of warp thread and weft yarn, and knits in conventional weaving The stability of object depends on the summation of warp thread and weft yarn CONTACT WITH FRICTION.This relationship limit the stability of certain open architectures with And between Traditional project region achievable difference range because typically, most of region on single textile will With similar density and shared warp thread.

It is known that other yarn can introduce, such as drawn by embroidering after weaving in the second procedure of processing Enter.But this method needs other processing and is therefore time-consuming.In addition, the precision and reproducibility of other yarn is added It is the natural limitation in this method.

It is also known that conventional woven technology such as such as jacquard loom can be used for forming complicated figure on Woven fabric Case.But these technologies are technical complexity, produce refuse yarn in envers, and significantly increase the area weight of fabric Amount.

So the invention solves a problem be that a kind of woven portion of light weight is provided for vamp, to be harsh It using enough stability is provided, can be produced in a manner of simple, accurate and reproducible, and can be than routine Woven fabric more flexible mode is engineered.The invention solves another problem is that increase the Woven fabric edge for vamp Differ markedly from warp thread and weft direction direction stability.

US2014/0173932 discloses a kind of vamp, is to be formed as substantially flat woven article, has Different functional areas and it is integrated into sealed item therein.The sealed item can be generally introduced to provide function together with weaving vamp Characteristic is different from through those characteristics provided by weaving vamp.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a kind of vamps, and it makes use of woven portions, and there is the step by integrating to knit Make specific engineering region caused by method.

3. summary of the invention

The present invention relates to a kind of vamps, and it includes woven portions, and wherein the woven portion includes: multiple warp thread；Multiple latitudes Yarn；At least one sewing yarn, wherein the sewing yarn be during method for weaving, by by the sewing yarn substantially along weft yarn Direction lateral displacement and the sewing yarn is movable into and out the open reed gap of at least one of reed, carrys out integral weaving at knitting Object.

The woven portion can be only the component of vamp, for example, flap perhaps foxing or it may be constructed substantially Upper entire vamp.This vamp usually can be light weight and durable.The vamp can be engineered that there is desired performance to want It asks, is related to for example stretching, durability, supportive, tactile etc..The performance in specific region can be by method for weaving process In, at least one sewing yarn is locally introduced to be engineered, without obviously increasing vamp weight.

The displacement of the sewing yarn is on the direction for being arranged essentially parallel to weft yarn, and effect is between weft yarn and sewing yarn Two subsequent intertwined points can be occurred with diagonally to each other.The sewing yarn is separated with warp thread, and single or as group It is controlled by pinprick.The sewing yarn loader can between weave cycle transverse shifting.Movement for material pin is " nonopiate ", it means that sewing yarn can change direction, that is, change it and warp thread and weft direction angulation.It is electronics for material pin Control is controlled via mechanical cam or dobbies system.Displacement mechanism provides enough lateral displacements to cover An at least half width for vamp is typical high to 10cm.Because the sewing yarn is added in weaving process, the side Method complexity compared with two-step method (wherein sewing yarn is that craft in the second step or machine introduce) reduces.It is knitted routinely In making, the reed is near top, and the yarn cannot be free to exit the reed by horizontal or vertical movement.At this In invention, open reed is needed, wherein the reed has opening at top, and sewing yarn can remove the reed and in steel herein Different horizontal side positions reenters in reed.

Likely in some regions of vamp, for the sewing yarn linear, warp thread direction is mobile.

Compared with two-step method, which can be arranged in a manner of more accurate and reproducible.Because needle is without introducing the seam It threads yarn, therefore is also not likely to the risk of damage warp thread or weft yarn (it can be damaged in the second step comprising embroidering method It is bad).

The present invention allows to design and customize vamp in development phase fully digitalization, allows to create the stage in this early stage true Determine mechanical performance, designs, size and fitness.

In conventional woven technology, the refuse yarn that introducing complicated pattern will lead at the Woven fabric back side is knitted with therefore increase The average areal weight of object.It causes when being using routine techniques the reason of this, localization pattern only can be by mobile by yarn It is generated to those of fabric top position, herein it assumes that assuming wherein not in specified whole length or width It can be seen that those of show and hide the yarn in envers on position.Invention prevents the refuse yarns of envers, because The sewing yarn pattern that allows to localize is introduced into textile, without hiding fabric wherein it is assumed that sightless those are illegal The yarn at the middle textile back side.As a result, the average areal weight of Woven fabric can be reduced, vamp performance is thus improved.It is noted that Be in the present invention, the area weight of fabric can also be engineered than conventional method more specifically locally change (comprising In the region of sewing yarn, area weight can be higher than the region of not sewing yarn), therefore allow to enhance region engineering to fabric Some parts in, while other parts are remained into more light weight.

The stretch modulus of the sewing yarn can be greater than the stretch modulus of warp thread and/or weft yarn.By the way that elastic material is used for Warp thread and/or weft yarn and less it will be used for sewing yarn by elastic material, the vamp can have good and comfortable conformability, but It is still to provide required support in the region (this is attributed in the presence of less elastic sewing yarn) for wherein needing to increase support It is horizontal.

The sewing yarn may include fusible component.The sewing yarn can coat or completely include low-temperature melt, typical Melting temperature be 40 DEG C -200 DEG C.It, can be with the fixed structure of local prominent, example by melting the fusible component Tathagata prevents dismantling during further processing or when shoes are threadbare.Specifically, using including fusible component Yarn can have additional hardness, be by introducing sewing yarn throughout in whole region, rather than only along the sewing Yarn.The step of fusible component described in melting, can be carried out in the form of 2D, such as be carried out with Support frame thermal fixation, or with 3D form carries out, or when vamp is arranged in Shi Jinhang on shoe tree.This has the advantage that, that is, the vamp is obtained corresponding to mold Or the shape of upper of a shoe geometry.

It is also possible that melting yarn is introduced into woven portion outside the interface of normal 2D vamp.So when 2D vamp exists When processing makes it 3D form on shoe tree, these extra melting yarns can be used for closing the vamp around shoe tree.

The sewing yarn can be located at the indsole region of shoes.Typically, which needs increased support level, example Such as running or playing soccer.So the sewing yarn positioned at the indsole region of vamp can be conducive to required support level, Weight without excessively increasing vamp.

The sewing yarn can be located at least one eyelet 2cm.The circumocular region of shoes is in shoes routine use It experienced increased wear and tear.So this can be increased by introducing at least one sewing yarn in eyelet peripheral region Local support needed for a region, the weight without obviously increasing vamp.

The sewing yarn can be located at followed by platform around.Followed by the region around platform needed in shoes routine use it is additional Support.So by followed by platform peripheral region introduce at least one sewing yarn, part needed for this region can be increased branch Support, the weight without obviously increasing vamp.

The sewing yarn can be located in the sole region of vamp.When forming the shoes comprising midsole and vamp, shoes The sole region in face is in the interface between midsole and vamp.At least one sewing yarn is introduced to the sole region of vamp In be functional because it, which increases stability in this region and reduces vamp, is detached from midsole or at this The risk of point tearing.

Specifically, it is combined with fusible component is used, which can partly or completely melt, such as come Promote to be formed by strength combination between midsole and vamp.Such as the midsole can be football plate, it includes thermoplastics Property polyurethane, and the fusible component in the sewing yarn include thermoplastic polyurethane.So between midsole and vamp Especially strong combination will be formed, without using any other binder.Midsole is connected with vamp may include nothing It needs to contact, for example activates at least part of the first connection surface by infra-red radiation by providing thermal energy, and pass through combination Midsole is connect by the connection surface of midsole and vamp with vamp.This method is sometimes referred to as infrared welding.

The woven portion may include at least the first and second sewing yarns, and wherein second sewing yarn is substantially parallel It is introduced in first sewing yarn.Both first or second sewing yarn or first and second sewing yarn can have this The performance of " at least one sewing yarn " described in text.It is in this context, substantially parallel to indicate parallel in +/- 10 degree, To allow manufacturing defect.In many cases, including single sewing yarn can be inadequate.This is arranged essentially parallel to by introducing Second sewing yarn of the first sewing yarn, by second sewing yarn enhance introduce the first sewing yarn effect and therefore can be real Now bigger hardness amount.

At least one sewing yarn can between at least two different intertwined points with warp thread or weft yarn at 30 ° of -60 ° of angles Degree.It is most stable of that conventional woven fabric, which is along warp thread (0 °) or weft yarn (90 °) direction,.Weaving material substantially along It is often on to +/- 45 ° of warp thread direction of " skew directions " unstable.If the sewing yarn be with warp thread direction at 30 °- What 60 ° of angles were added, then the mechanical performance in this angle arrangement reflects the performance of sewing yarn.So such as by using Strong sewing yarn can increase supportive, and it reduce work as mechanical stress or power relative to about 30 ° -60 ° of warp thread direction Angle in the presence of strain.Such woven portion can also be engineered, be by the sewing yarn " sealed ", and Only there is very small elasticity in specific direction or region.In addition, by arranging the sewing yarn with such angle, it should Sewing yarn can improve the stickiness and aesthetics aspect of vamp in accordance with the natural profile of vamp.

Two intertwined points can be located in the indsole region of vamp.As disclosed herein, when the sewing yarn with When warp thread or weft yarn are at 30 ° -60 ° of angle, additional support can be engineered to resist the distortion on this direction.Vamp Indsole region often experienced big stress and power during body movement on a certain range of direction.So often excellent Choosing is to provide additional support in the indsole region of vamp, especially along the often most weak direction of fabric.

Two intertwined points can be located at least one eyelet 2cm.The circumocular region of shoes is living in body The big stress and power in certain orientation range has been often subjected in dynamic.It is preferable that by by sewing yarn with relative to The angle that warp thread or weft yarn are 30 ° -60 ° introduces, to be engineered the additional support of eyelet peripheral region.

The vamp can further include enhancing region, it includes: at least one sewing yarn of a. along a first direction；b. Then the sewing yarn becomes second direction, with first direction at least 30 degree of angle；C. then the sewing yarn becomes third Direction, with second direction at least 30 degree of angle；With the d. sewing yarn then become fourth direction, with first direction at Angle less than 30 degree.In other words, which includes at least one sewing yarn, starts along a first direction and returns at it In accordance with serpentine path before returning around first direction.Advantageous effect is that the specific area for wherein needing additional support can be enhanced Domain, without introducing different types of yarn.Such enhancing region is impossible in conventional woven.

At least one sewing yarn can be frenulum yarn, and wherein frenulum yarn extends beyond the edge of the woven portion, and And configuration can move in the woven portion.The frenulum yarn can be item and/or belt.

The advantages of introducing sewing yarn (it is configured to frenulum yarn) is the speed of production that can obviously increase vamp, because In the manufacture of conventional shoes, the step of vamp frenulum is still manual and therefore time-consuming and expensive.Introducing sewing yarn, (it is is With yarn) another advantage be that can form obvious more purification and effective strapping system.

The frenulum yarn can configure to be moveable in woven portion, for example, by with relatively small number purpose with The points of warp thread and weft yarns is realized.The frenulum yarn can come selected from stronger material such as high-tenacity polyester or nylon It prevents from tearing.The frenulum yarn can provide extend beyond the edge of woven portion for example by by frenulum yarns interwoven at Piece, then from wherein cutting the woven portion, but the frenulum yarn extends beyond the edge of woven portion in piece.

The frenulum yarn can change direction in break-resistance region, have the function similar with frenulum eyelet.It is anti-broken Split plot domain can be used any method known in the art and be formed, and may include tear-resistant yarn such as high-tenacity polyester or Nylon.By this method, which can be used for adjusting the stickiness of vamp, and without the wind for tearing the vamp in those regions Danger, will be the largest here by the pulling force on the be applied to vamp of frenulum yarn.

There may be two or more frenulum yarns to replace only one frenulum yarn.By this method, it is easier to set Strapping system is counted, because two or more frenulum yarns can be connection.

At least one frenulum yarn may include fusible component.The fusible component can be activated by heat, so that Obtaining the frenulum yarn can be fixedly attached on warp thread and weft yarn in the desired end of frenulum yarn.Selectively or in addition, Two frenulum yarns can be by being fixedly secured to one another in the fusible component of selected connection point activation.

At least one sewing yarn and/or a weft yarn and/or a warp thread are soluble in solvent.By this method, may be used To generate gap in woven portion, that is, such region provides improved air permeability and flexibility.In conventional woven It is infeasible for generating these gaps, because warp thread and weft yarn will close any gap along sliding over each other.Here, this is solvable Solution yarn maintains the spatial joint clearance with insoluble yarn in weaving process.After weaving, this can dissolve yarn dissolution, and generate Gap.This method may include woven portion being fixed before dissolving dissolvable yarn, such as pass through and melt selected melting Yarn improves the stability in gap.The dissolvable yarn can dissolve before vamp connecting upper or it can be connected in vamp It is dissolved after upper of a shoe.Dissolving the dissolvable yarn can carry out before shoes sale or after sale, that is, it is also possible that transferring to Consumer can dissolve yarn to decide whether to dissolve this.

The dissolution that can dissolve yarn can carry out increasing dissolvable yarn in a solvent molten in 70 DEG C -100 DEG C of temperature Xie Du.

The solvent can be water.Water is nontoxic and the use of safe or even large-scale use is also such.Water dissolvable Yarn may include poly- (vinyl alcohol), have the advantages that nontoxic and high-dissolvability in water.

But many combinations that can dissolve yarn and solvent are suitable.Only importantly the dissolvable yarn dissolves in molten In agent.The solvent can be ionic liquid or organic solvent, this depends on the material that can dissolve yarn.Such as selectively, should Dissolvable yarn may include polycaprolactone, and solvent suitable for it will be the mixed of chloroform perhaps methylene chloride or the two Close object.Selectively, this can dissolve yarn and can be made of nylon, and solvent suitable for it will be acetic acid.

The warp thread and/or weft yarn may include the elastomer that volume fraction is at least 0.1%.It is preferred that the warp thread and/or Weft yarn includes volume fraction 0.1-30%, and the more preferable warp thread and/or weft yarn include volume fraction 0.5-20%.It is big by introducing The elastomer of volume fraction, vamp can be bonded the foot of wearer very much, and the vamp can be light weight and dress Comfortably.Specifically, there is intrinsic stretching and amount of elasticity by the base fabric that warp thread and weft yarn are formed, at least one side Upwardly-deformed and strain from height to 20% restores.Those skilled in the art will recognize that this value be apparently higher than conventional weaving or Person's braided fabric typically experienced irreversible damage in about 4% or higher strain.But pass through warp thread The base fabric formed with weft yarn can also not have intrinsic elasticity.

The quality of the base fabric (it includes warp thread and weft yarn, but not including that sewing yarn) of the woven portion can be 15-700 grams/m, more preferable 50-350 grams/m.Light weight fabric improves the performance and snugness of fit of vamp.It should Comprising warp thread and weft yarn, but not including that quality/unit area (also referred to as area weight) of the woven portion of sewing yarn can be with Such as get off measurement: cutting next part is free of the fabric of sewing yarn, the part for weighing described and by measured weight (or matter Amount) it is standardized by cutting away the area of part.Certainly, similar program allows to measure the face of the also fabric portions comprising sewing yarn Product weight.

The stretch modulus of at least one sewing yarn can be at least 3GPa.Stretch modulus is that at least sewing yarn of 3GPa is advantageous Preferred support level in the region for wherein needing additional support during body movement, without excess compression wearer's Foot (this will deteriorate snugness of fit).

At least one sewing yarn may include high-tenacity polyester.High-tenacity polyester is light weight and long life material, has low bullet Property, the region of the additional support of needs particularly suitable for vamp.

At least one sewing yarn may include polyamide material.Polyamide material is special light weight and especially durable, tool There is low elasticity, is suitable for the region that vamp needs additional support.

The sewing yarn may include carbon fiber.Carbon fibre material is special light weight and especially durable, has low elasticity, The region of additional support is needed suitable for vamp.

It is for example nice and cool or warm that the sewing yarn can provide unique benefit, they can be electric conductivity, such as with In security purpose, they can provide expansion for vamp and increase performance.

Multiple sewing yarns can be introduced at least one sewing yarn end/cm along the density of weft direction.It has been found that in order to The performance of part engineering vamp, the density of the sewing yarn are not required to be high.It is preferred that this density be at least one sewing yarn end/ Cm is along weft direction.This more preferable density is at least two sewing yarn end/cm along weft direction.In this density, drawn The hardness for the woven portion stretched is obviously increased when 20%-30% is strained.The sewing yarn can be largely integrated on big width Or it is integrated on narrow width in a small amount.

The weaving may include at least two sewing axis.The sewing axis is provided by the physical direction of gearshift, Its lateral displacement for being conducive to sewing yarn.For align uniaxial, the displacement of the sewing yarn is preferably being arranged essentially parallel to weft yarn Direction.But sewing axis can be parallel to weft yarn perhaps warp thread direction or it can be not parallel to weft yarn or warp thread side To.The second sewing axis, which can be parallel to the first sewing axis or it, can be not parallel to the first sewing axis.Use the second sewing Axis allows for more complicated sewing pattern to be introduced into woven portion, and with an improved the degree that woven portion performance can be engineered.

The invention further relates to a kind of method of woven portion for manufacturing vamp, it includes: multiple warp thread and are provided more A weft yarn；Interweave multiple weft yarn and multiple warp thread；At least one sewing yarn is provided, warp thread setting is arranged essentially parallel to；With By being movable into and out substantially along the weft direction lateral displacement sewing yarn and by the sewing yarn during method for weaving At least one of reed opens reed gap, the next while sewing yarn that interweaves.

This vamp usually can be light weight and durable.The vamp can be engineered have desired performance requirement, It is related to for example stretching, durability, supportive, tactile etc..The performance in specific region can pass through office during method for weaving The weight that portion introduces at least one sewing yarn to be engineered, without obviously increasing vamp.

The displacement of the sewing yarn be carry out in the direction for being arranged essentially parallel to weft yarn so that weft yarn and sewing yarn it Between two subsequent intertwined points between diagonally to each other can occur.The sewing yarn be separated with warp thread, and it is single or It is controlled in groups by pinprick.The sewing yarn loader can between weave cycle transverse shifting.Movement for material pin is " non-just Hand over ", it means that sewing yarn can change direction, that is, change it and warp thread and weft direction angulation.It is electricity for material pin Son control is controlled via mechanical cam or dobbies system.Displacement mechanism provides enough lateral displacements to cover An at least half width for lid vamp is typical high to 10cm.Because the sewing yarn is added in weaving process, described Method complexity compared with two-step method (wherein sewing yarn is that craft in the second step or machine introduce) reduces.In routine In weaving, the reed is near top, and the yarn cannot be free to exit the reed by horizontal or vertical movement.? In present invention, it is desirable to open reed, wherein the reed has opening at top, herein sewing yarn can remove the reed and Different horizontal side positions reenters in reed.

In conventional woven technology, the refuse yarn that introducing complicated pattern will lead at the Woven fabric back side is knitted with therefore increase The average areal weight of object.It causes when being using routine techniques the reason of this, localization pattern only can be by mobile by yarn It is generated to those of fabric top position, herein it assumes that assuming wherein not in specified whole length or width It can be seen that those of show and hide the yarn in envers on position.Method of the invention prevents the useless of envers Yarn, because the sewing yarn allows to localize, pattern is introduced into textile, without hiding fabric wherein it is assumed that sightless The yarn at those illegal middle textile back sides.As a result, the average areal weight of Woven fabric can be reduced, vamp is thus improved Energy.It should be noted that the area weight of fabric can also be engineered than conventional method more specifically using method of the invention Part changes (in the region comprising sewing yarn, area weight can be higher than the region of not sewing yarn), therefore allows to enhance Region engineering remains more light weight into some parts of fabric, while by other parts.

The method of the present invention another benefit is that the sewing yarn can be used for crimping the edge of woven sheet prevent abrasion consider to be worth doing.? Weaving come after forming woven portion, via it is conventional cut or be cut by laser manually or automatically cut one of the woven sheet Point.Then the shoes are formed via connecting upper and finishing process.For production vamp, for example using weaving material Major obstacle in petinet type Woven fabric first is that the material described in disposal process is dismantled.This method allows Weaving structure is opened, for example melts yarn without glued or binder to prevent dismantling in disposal process.

Reed may include at least two groups reed gap, cover wherein first group of reed gap is at least partly inserted into inclined-plane Lid, and wherein second group of reed gap is not inserted into inclined-plane covering.A problem using open reed is that sewing yarn can inserted Enter the top that reed gap is adhered to reed gap in the process.Insertion inclined-plane can be used to prevent in this, which is led Enter target reed gap and stops adjacent reed gap.

The sewing yarn can be located in the indsole region of shoes.Typically, which needs increased support level, Such as running or playing soccer.So the sewing yarn in the indsole region of vamp can be conducive to required support Level, the weight without excessively increasing vamp.

The sewing yarn can be located at the sole region of vamp.When forming the shoes comprising midsole and vamp, vamp Sole region be in interface between midsole and vamp.It is by the sole region that at least one sewing yarn introduces vamp It is functional, it is detached from midsole because it increases the stability in this region and reduces vamp or is torn in this point The risk split.

This method, which may include, provides at least the first and second sewing yarns, and wherein second sewing yarn is substantially parallel to What the first sewing yarn interweaved.Both first or second sewing yarn or first and second sewing yarn can have this paper institute The performance of " at least one sewing yarn " stated.In this context, substantially parallel to indicate parallel in +/- 10 degree, to permit Perhaps manufacturing defect.In many cases, including single sewing yarn can be inadequate.By introduce be arranged essentially parallel to this first Second sewing yarn of sewing yarn is enhanced the effect for introducing the first sewing yarn by second sewing yarn and therefore may be implemented more Big hardness amount.

Two intertwined points can be located at the indsole region of vamp.As disclosed herein, when the sewing yarn and warp When yarn or weft yarn are at 30 ° -60 ° of angle, additional support can be engineered to resist the distortion on this direction.In vamp Bottom region often experienced big stress and power during body movement on a certain range of direction.So often preferably Be to provide additional support in the indsole region of vamp, especially along the often most weak direction of fabric.

This method can further include to form enhancing region, it includes: a. sews along a first direction, and at least one is stitched It threads yarn；B. the sewing yarn deflecting is at second direction, with first direction at least 30 degree of angle；C. the sewing yarn deflecting is at Three directions, with second direction at least 30 degree of angle；With the d. sewing yarn deflecting at fourth direction, with first direction at Angle less than 30 degree.In other words, which includes at least one sewing yarn, starts along a first direction and returns at it In accordance with serpentine path before returning around first direction.Advantageous effect is that the specific area for wherein needing additional support can be enhanced Domain, without introducing different types of yarn.Such enhancing region is impossible in conventional woven.

This method, which can further include, configures at least one sewing yarn as frenulum yarn, it includes: extension at least one A sewing yarn is more than the edge of woven portion and is configured to move in woven portion by the sewing yarn.The frenulum yarn It can be item and/or belt.

The advantages of being introduced into sewing yarn (its frenulum yarn being configured in woven portion) is the life that can obviously increase vamp Speed is produced, because the step of vamp frenulum is still manual and therefore time-consuming and expensive in the manufacture of conventional shoes.It introduces Another advantage of sewing yarn (it is frenulum yarn) is can to form obvious more purification and effective strapping system.

The frenulum yarn can interweave, so that it changes direction in break-resistance region, have and frenulum eyelet class As function.Break-resistance region can be used any method known in the art and be formed, and may include tear-resistant yarn for example High-tenacity polyester or nylon.By this method, which can be used for adjusting the stickiness of vamp, and without those areas of tearing The risk of vamp in domain will be the largest here by the pulling force on the be applied to vamp of frenulum yarn.

At least one frenulum yarn may include fusible component, and the method can further include melting this can Molten component, so that the frenulum yarn can be fixedly attached on warp thread and weft yarn in the desired end of frenulum yarn.It is optional Select ground or in addition, two frenulum yarns can by the fusible component of selected connection point activation come the company of being fixed to one another It connects.

There is provided multiple warp thread and weft yarn and at least one sewing yarn may include and provide at least one sewing yarn and/or one A weft yarn and/or a warp thread, are soluble in solvent, and this can dissolve warp thread, weft yarn and/or sewing yarn dissolution In a solvent.In this way, it is possible to generate gap in woven portion, that is, such region provides improved air permeability And flexibility.It is infeasible that these gaps are generated in conventional woven, because warp thread and weft yarn will be closed along sliding over each other Close any gap.Here, this can dissolve yarn and maintains the spatial joint clearance with insoluble yarn in weaving process.After weaving, This can dissolve yarn dissolution, and generate gap.This method may include fixing woven portion, example before dissolving dissolvable yarn Such as the stability in gap is improved by melting selected melting yarn.This can dissolve yarn can be molten before vamp connecting upper It solves or it can be dissolved after vamp connecting upper.Dissolving the dissolvable yarn can be before shoes sale or after sale It carries out, that is, it is also possible that transferring to consumer to decide whether to dissolve this and can dissolve yarn.

At least one sewing yarn may include carbon fiber.Carbon fibre material is special light weight and especially durable, is had low Elasticity is suitable for the region that vamp needs additional support.

4. Detailed description of the invention

The present invention will be more fully described with reference to following attached drawing.These figures show that:

Fig. 1: a kind of diagram of exemplary fabric manufacture equipment can be used in the context of the invention；

Fig. 2: a kind of diagram of exemplary Weaving-machine can be used in the context of the invention；

Fig. 3 A, B: the woven portion of exemplary enhancing according to the present invention；

Fig. 4: exemplary woven portion according to the present invention has enhancing region and dissolvable yarn；

Fig. 5 A, B: the exemplary woven sheet according to the present invention for vamp, it includes the sewing for containing fusible component Yarn；With

Fig. 6 A-C: exemplary woven sheet according to the present invention and woven portion, it includes frenulum yarns.

5. specific embodiment

Fig. 1 shows a kind of fabric manufacture equipment 10 of exemplary implementation scheme according to the method for the present invention, is suitable for production and knits Piece 20 is made, the woven portion for vamp can be cut by it.First group of warp thread 11a is raised by reed 18.Contain needle The aligning guide 13 of eye 14 allows two sewing yarns 15 to increase or decline along essentially perpendicular direction 16.The needle can enter Reed gap 19 is opened in reed with leaving.When weft yarn (Fig. 1 is not shown) is when weft yarn insert port is inserted into, fabric manufacture equipment 10 is therefore Allow while weaving sewing yarn described in weft yarn and warp thread and sewing.Will be apparent to persons skilled in the art can also be only There are single aligning guide 13, single sewing yarn 15 is provided, or may exist several aligning guides, is arranged in containing several In the group of a sewing yarn 15.It is only necessary to there are at least one sewing yarns 15 by the present invention.

Because sewing yarn 15 is added in weaving process, the method and two-step method (wherein sewing yarn be Craft or machine introduce in second step) compared to reduced complexity.In conventional woven, reed 18 is at top It is closed, and the yarn cannot be free to exit reed by horizontal or vertical movement.For the present invention, open steel is needed Reed, wherein the reed has opening 19 at top, and sewing yarn 15 can remove reed and the Bu Tong horizontal side in reed herein Position reenters.

Likely in some regions of vamp, sewing yarn 15 is with linear, warp thread direction operation.

Compared with two-step method, which can be arranged in a manner of more accurate and reproducible.Because needle should without introducing Sewing yarn, thus also be not likely to damage warp thread or weft yarn risk (its can in the second step comprising embroidering method quilt Damage).

In conventional woven technology, the refuse yarn that introducing complicated pattern will lead at the Woven fabric back side is knitted with therefore increase The average areal weight of object.It causes when being using routine techniques the reason of this, localization pattern only can be by mobile by yarn It is generated to those of fabric top position, herein it assumes that assuming wherein not in specified whole length or width It can be seen that those of show and hide the yarn in envers on position.Method of the invention prevents the useless of envers Yarn, because the sewing yarn allows to localize, pattern is introduced into textile, without hiding fabric wherein it is assumed that sightless The yarn at those illegal middle textile back sides.As a result, the average areal weight of Woven fabric can be reduced, vamp is thus improved Energy.It should be noted that in the methods of the invention, the area weight of fabric can also be engineered office more specifically than conventional method Portion changes (in the region comprising sewing yarn, area weight can be higher than the region of not sewing yarn), therefore allows enhancement region Domain engineering remains more light weight into some parts of fabric, while by other parts.

The stretch modulus of sewing yarn 15 can be greater than the stretch modulus of warp thread 11a and 11b and/or weft yarn.By will be elastic Material is for warp thread and/or weft yarn and less will be used for sewing yarn 15 by elastic material, and the vamp comprising woven portion has good With comfortable conformability, but the region (this is attributed in the presence of less elastic sewing yarn 15) for wherein needing to increase support still So provide required support level.

Displacement mechanism (referring to fig. 2) allows aligning guide 13 substantially along 17 lateral displacement of weft direction.So weft yarn Two subsequent intertwined points between sewing yarn diagonally to each other can occur.Conventional woven fabric is along warp thread (0 °) or latitude Yarn (90 °) direction is most stable of.Weaving material is often on substantially along 45 ° of skew direction +/- to warp thread direction Unstable.The mechanicalness if sewing yarn is to be added with warp thread direction at 30 ° of -60 ° of angles, in this angle arrangement The performance of sewing yarn can be reflected.So such as by using strong sewing yarn, supportive can be increased, it reduce work as machine Tool stress or power are with the strain in the presence of the angle relative to about 30 ° -60 ° of warp thread direction.Fabric manufacture equipment 10 is so allow Such woven portion is produced, it is more obvious than conventional woven fabric more stable along skew direction.It can also be engineered such Woven portion, be by the sewing yarn " sealed ", and in specific direction or region only have very small bullet Property.In addition, the sewing yarn can improve shoes in accordance with the natural profile of vamp by arranging the sewing yarn with such angle The stickiness and aesthetics aspect in face.

Warp thread 11a, 11b and/or weft yarn include the elastomer that volume fraction is at least 0.5%.By introducing large volume The elastomer of score, the vamp comprising woven portion can be bonded the foot of wearer very much, and the vamp is light weight With it is comfortable and easy to wear.Specifically, there is intrinsic stretching and amount of elasticity by the base fabric that warp thread and weft yarn are formed, at least One side is upwardly-deformed and restores from height to 20% strain.It is conventional that those skilled in the art will recognize that this value is apparently higher than Weaving perhaps braided fabric its typically experienced irreversible damage in about 4% or higher strain.

The base fabric (it includes warp thread 11a, 11b and weft yarn, but not including that sewing yarn 15) of the woven portion Quality is 15-700 grams/m.Light weight woven portion improves the performance and snugness of fit of vamp.

The stretch modulus of sewing yarn 15 is at least 3GPa.Stretch modulus is that the sewing yarn 15 of at least 3GPa is conducive to body work Preferred support level in the region of additional support is wherein needed during dynamic, without foot (this of excess compression wearer Snugness of fit will be deteriorated).

Sewing yarn 15 may include high-tenacity polyester, polyamide and/or carbon fiber.Likely some sewing yarns include this One of a little materials and some other sewing yarns another kind that contains these materials.It is also possible that a sewing yarn includes two kinds Or the composition of these whole materials.These materials are special light weights and especially durable, have low elasticity, are suitable for weaving The region of the partial additional support of needs.

Sewing yarn 15 is introduced at least one sewing yarn end/cm along the density of weft direction.It has been found that for local work The performance of journey woven portion, the density of the sewing yarn are not required to be high.It is preferred that this density is at least one sewing yarn end/cm Along weft direction.This more preferable density is at least two sewing yarn end/cm along weft direction.In this density, stretched Woven portion hardness 20%-30% strain when obviously increase.The sewing yarn can largely be integrated on big width or Person is integrated into a small amount on narrow width.

Some or all of sewing yarn 15 may include fusible component (not shown).The sewing yarn can coat or Person completely includes low-temperature melt, and typical melting temperature is 40 DEG C -200 DEG C.By melting the fusible component, Ke Yiju The structure is permanently fixed in portion, such as to prevent dismantling during further processing or when shoes are threadbare.

Fig. 2 shows a kind of exemplary Weaving-machine 21 according to the method for the present invention, is suitable for production woven sheet 20, from thereon Woven portion can be cut for vamp.Yarn packaging is stored on spool 22, is used for warp thread, weft yarn and/or sewing yarn.Alignment machine Structure 13 provides sewing yarn 15.Displacement mechanism 23 is conducive to aligning guide 13 along the direction for being arranged essentially parallel to weft direction 17 Lateral displacement.Typically, displacement mechanism 23 allows the high lateral displacement for arriving 10cm.The movement of this range is enough to cover vamp One half width is engineered the region of woven portion.It is also possible that displacement mechanism 23 allows larger range of lateral displacement.Position Telephone-moving structure 23 further allows to impregnate to move along essentially perpendicular direction 16 to be inserted into and remove aligning guide 13, to enter and Leave open reed gap 19.

Fig. 3 A shows a kind of woven sheet 20a for woven portion 34 of exemplary implementation scheme, and it includes the first kind Two sewing yarn 15a of type.Sewing yarn 15a is located at a part of woven sheet 20a, and cutting is formed the indsole for being used for vamp The woven portion 34 in region.Woven sheet 20a also includes to cut away region 32, will not form a part of the woven portion of vamp. Typically, indsole region needs increased support level, such as running or playing soccer.So positioned at the indsole of vamp Sewing yarn in region can be conducive to required support level, the weight without obviously increasing vamp.

Sewing yarn 15a is between several different intertwined points with the direction 35 of warp thread at 30 ° -60 ° of angle.Conventional woven It is most stable of that fabric, which is along warp thread (0 °) or weft yarn (90 °) direction,.Weaving material substantially along arrive warp thread direction It is often on +/- 45 ° of " skew direction " unstable.If the sewing yarn is to be added with warp thread direction at 30 ° of -60 ° of angles , then the mechanical performance in this angle arrangement reflects the performance of sewing yarn.So such as by using strong sewing yarn, Supportive can be increased, it reduce work as mechanical stress or power to exist relative to about 30 ° -60 ° of warp thread direction of angle When strain.Such woven portion can also be engineered, be by the sewing yarn " sealed ", and in specific direction or Only there is very small elasticity in person region.In addition, by arranging the sewing yarn with such angle, which can be with The stickiness and aesthetics aspect of vamp are improved in accordance with the natural profile of vamp.

These intertwined points are located in region as woven portion 34, will be located in the indsole region of vamp.As this Disclosed in text, when the angle of the sewing yarn and warp thread or weft yarn at 30 ° -60 °, additional support can be engineered to resist this Distortion on a direction.The indsole region of vamp often experienced on a certain range of direction during body movement big Stress and power.So it is often preferred that additional support is provided in the indsole region of vamp, especially along the warp of fabric Often most weak direction.

Fig. 3 B shows a kind of woven sheet 20b of exemplary implementation scheme, is used for woven portion 34, it includes the first kind Two sewing yarn 15a and Second Type two sewing yarn 15b.The sewing yarn 15a of the first kind be located at woven portion 34 this In the part of sample, it will be located in the indsole region of vamp.Woven sheet 20b also includes to cut away region 32, will not form vamp Woven portion a part.

The sewing yarn 15b of Second Type is close to several eyelets 33 and in place of 2cm.The circumocular region of shoes is in shoes It experienced increased wear and tear in routine use.So passing through the sewing for introducing Second Type in eyelet peripheral region Yarn 15b, local support needed for this region can be increased, the weight without obviously increasing vamp.The sewing yarn of the first kind The composition and/or stretch modulus of 15a can be different from the sewing yarn 15b of Second Type.Such as preferably have stone The very high stretch modulus for (not needing elasticity here) around the sewing yarn 15b and eyelet of Second Type, and the first kind Sewing yarn 15a can be bigger elasticity and have lower stretch modulus to allow certain flexibility degree in indsole region.

Sewing yarn 15a and 15b is between several different intertwined points with warp thread direction 35 at 30 ° -60 ° of angle.This mesh Be to increase supportive, when mechanical stress or power in the presence of the angle relative to about 30 ° -60 ° of warp thread direction to reduce Strain.These stress are frequently present in the region around indsole region and eyelet 33 in body movement.

Woven sheet 20a and 20b include enhancing region 36, are sewed along a first direction at least one sewing yarn it includes: a. 15；B. then deflecting is at second direction for the sewing yarn 15, with first direction at least 30 degree of angle；C. the sewing yarn 15 is right Deflecting is at third direction afterwards, with second direction at least 30 degree of angle；With the d. sewing yarn 15 and then deflecting at four directions To with first direction at the angle less than 30 degree.In other words, which includes at least one sewing yarn 15, edge First direction start and it return first direction around before in accordance with serpentine path.Advantageous effect is to can be enhanced wherein The specific region for needing additional support, without introducing different types of yarn.Such enhancing region is in conventional woven In be impossible.

Fig. 4 shows a kind of woven sheet 20c of exemplary implementation scheme, is used for woven portion 34, it includes four kinds of differences Several the sewing yarn 15a, 15b, 15c, 15d of type.Sewing yarn 15a, 15b, 15c, 15d are located at part as woven portion 34 In, it will be located in the indsole region of vamp.Woven sheet 20c also includes to cut away region 32, will not form the one of woven portion Part.The composition and/or stretch modulus of a type of sewing yarn can be different from another type of sewing yarn.

Woven sheet 20c includes enhancing region 36, is sewed along a first direction at least one sewing yarn 15 it includes: a.；b. Then deflecting is at second direction for the sewing yarn 15, with first direction at least 30 degree of angle；C. then the sewing yarn 15 becomes To at third direction, with second direction at least 30 degree of angle；With the d. sewing yarn 15 then deflecting at fourth direction, With first direction at the angle less than 30 degree.In other words, which includes at least one sewing yarn 15, along first Direction starts and before it is returned around first direction in accordance with serpentine path.Advantageous effect be can be enhanced wherein need it is attached The specific region of the support added, without introducing different types of yarn.Such enhancing region is not in conventional woven It is possible.

Woven sheet 20c includes two sewing yarns 41 dissolved in solvent.In this way, it is possible to be generated in woven portion Gap, that is, such region provides improved air permeability and flexibility.Generated in conventional woven these gaps be can not Capable, because warp thread and weft yarn will close any gap along sliding over each other.Here, this can dissolve yarn 41 in weaving process Maintain the spatial joint clearance with insoluble yarn.After weaving, this can dissolve yarn dissolution, and generate gap.This method can Fixed woven portion before can dissolve yarn is dissolved to be included in, such as improves the steady of gap by melting selected melting yarn It is qualitative.The dissolvable yarn can dissolve before vamp connecting upper or it can be dissolved after vamp connecting upper.It is molten Solving the dissolvable yarn can carry out before shoes sale or after sale, that is, it is also possible that transferring to consumer to determine to be The no dissolution dissolvable yarn.

Although two sewing yarns can dissolve in a solvent in this embodiment, it is to be appreciated that sewing yarn, warp thread and/or Weft yarn can dissolve in a solvent.There may be one kind or greater than a kind of dissolvable yarn.

The dissolution that can dissolve yarn 41 can be carried out in 70 DEG C -100 DEG C of temperature to increase dissolvable yarn 41 in a solvent Solubility.

In this embodiment, the solvent is water.Water is nontoxic and the use of safe or even large-scale use is also such as This.It includes poly- (vinyl alcohol) that exemplary water, which can dissolve yarn 41, has the advantages that nontoxic and high-dissolvability in water.

Woven sheet 20a shown in 3A, 3B, 4 figure, 20b, 20c can be for example using fabric manufacture equipment shown in FIG. 1 or Fig. 2 Shown in Weaving-machine produce.Then vamp by using conventional cutting or is cut by laser from woven sheet 20a, 20b, 20c Woven portion 34 is cut, is formed for either manually or automatically shoemaking.Then shoes are formed via connecting upper and finishing process. The enhancing step of reduction number can be used to produce in vamp according to the present invention.

Fig. 5 A shows a kind of woven sheet 20d of exemplary implementation scheme, and it includes sewing yarns 15, contains fusible group Point.Fig. 5 A shows the woven sheet with warp thread direction 17 and weft direction 35.Woven sheet 20d shows a kind of exemplary implementation Scheme introduces sewing yarn to enhance the indsole region of vamp.

Fig. 5 B shows a kind of woven sheet 20e of exemplary implementation scheme, and it includes sewing yarns 15, contains fusible group Point.Fig. 5 B shows the woven sheet with warp thread direction 17 and weft direction 35.Woven sheet 20e shows a kind of exemplary implementation Scheme, introduce sewing yarn to enhance vamp followed by platform region.

Woven sheet 20d and 20e include at least the one 15 and the 2nd 15 sewing yarn, and wherein second sewing yarn 15 is substantially It is parallel to the introducing of the first sewing yarn 15.One 15 or the 2nd 15 sewing yarn or the one 15 and the 2nd 15 sewing yarn two Person can have the performance of " at least one sewing yarn " 15 as described herein.In this context, substantially parallel to indicate It is parallel in +/- 10 degree, to allow manufacturing defect.In many cases, including single sewing yarn can be inadequate.Pass through introducing It is arranged essentially parallel to the second sewing yarn of first sewing yarn, the effect for introducing the first sewing yarn is enhanced by second sewing yarn Fruit and therefore it may be implemented bigger hardness amount.

Sewing yarn 15 can coat or completely include low-temperature melt, and typical melting temperature is 40 DEG C -200 DEG C.Pass through The melting fusible component can fix the structure with local prominent, such as to prevent during further processing Or dismantling when shoes are threadbare.Specifically, it can have additional hardness using the yarn comprising fusible component, be logical Cross introducing sewing yarn and throughout in whole region, rather than only along the sewing yarn 15.The melting fusible component Step can be carried out in the form of 2D, such as be carried out with Support frame thermal fixation, perhaps carry out or work as vamp to arrange in the form of 3D The Shi Jinhang on shoe tree.This has the advantage that, that is, the vamp obtains the shape corresponding to mold or upper of a shoe geometry.

It is also possible that by melting yarn 15 (that is, knitting for a part of vamp will be become outside the interface of normal 2D vamp Make except part) it is introduced into woven sheet.So these are extra when 2D vamp is processed on shoe tree and makes it 3D form Melting yarn 15 can be used for closing the vamp around shoe tree.

Woven sheet 20d and 20e include enhancing region 36, are sewed along a first direction at least one sewing yarn it includes: a. 15；B. then deflecting is at second direction for the sewing yarn 15, with first direction at least 30 degree of angle；C. the sewing yarn 15 is right Deflecting is at third direction afterwards, with second direction at least 30 degree of angle；With the d. sewing yarn 15 and then deflecting at four directions To with first direction at the angle less than 30 degree.In other words, which includes at least one sewing yarn 15, edge First direction start and it return first direction around before in accordance with serpentine path.Advantageous effect is to can be enhanced wherein The specific region for needing additional support, without introducing different types of yarn.Such enhancing region is in conventional woven In be impossible.

Woven sheet 20d and 20e shown in Fig. 5 A and 5B can be for example using shown in fabric manufacture equipment shown in FIG. 1 or Fig. 2 Weaving-machine produce.Then vamp is cut from woven sheet 20d, 20e by using conventional cutting or laser cutting and is weaved Part is formed for either manually or automatically shoemaking.Then shoes are formed via connecting upper and finishing process.According to the present invention Vamp can be used and reduce the enhancing step of number and produce.

Fig. 6 A-C shows the exemplary woven sheet 20f for vamp according to the present invention, g and woven portion 34.

Fig. 6 A shows a kind of exemplary woven sheet 20f, and it includes the woven portions 34 with boundary, is somebody's turn to do in the boundary Woven portion is cut by shown in solid.The exemplary woven portion includes two sewing yarns 61a, b, is frenulum yarn, Wherein frenulum yarn 61a, b extend beyond the edge of woven portion 34, and configure to be removable in woven portion 34 's.Frenulum yarn 61a and 61b can be item and/or belt.

The advantages of introducing sewing yarn 61a, b (it is configured to frenulum yarn) is the speed of production that can obviously increase vamp, Because the step of vamp frenulum is still manual and therefore time-consuming and expensive in the manufacture of conventional shoes.Introduce sewing yarn Another advantage of 61a, b (it is frenulum yarn) are can to form obvious more purification and effective strapping system.

Frenulum yarn 61a, b configuration in woven portion to be moveable, by with relatively small number point of destination It realizes, at this point, the warp thread and weft yarns of frenulum yarn 61a, b and basis of formation fabric 62.The exemplary frenulum yarn Line 61a, b are selected from stronger material such as high-tenacity polyester or nylon to prevent from tearing.Frenulum yarn 61a, b, which is provided, to be come such as Under extend beyond the edge of woven portion 34: by the way that frenulum yarn 61a, b interweave 20f in blocks, then knit from wherein cutting this Part 34 is made, but the frenulum yarn 61a, b extend beyond the edge of woven portion 34 in piece 20f.In this embodiment, it is Band yarn 61a, b is straight line between two subsequent woven portions.64 are put in exemplary " relaxation ", frenulum yarn is not connected to To base fabric 62.At illustrative fixed point 63, frenulum yarn 61a, b are connected in base fabric 62.Therefore frenulum yarn Line 61a, b can easily be removed from base fabric 62 by only and a single point dismantles them, such as pass through cutting.

In this embodiment, there are two frenulum yarns 61a and 61b.The advantages of tool is there are two frenulum yarn be it more It is easy to produce strapping system, because two frenulum yarns can connect.However, it is possible to the frenulum yarn of existence anduniquess, Huo Zheke It is greater than two frenulum yarns to exist.

In this embodiment, frenulum yarn 61a and 61b includes fusible component, and the method is further wrapped Containing melt the fusible component so that frenulum yarn can at the desired endpoint 65 of frenulum yarn 61a and 61b the company of fixation It is connected to warp thread and weft yarn.In addition, in this embodiment, two frenulum yarns 61a and 61b are by selected tie point 65 activate the fusible components to be fixedly secured to one another.But only one frenulum yarn may include fusible component Perhaps it may include fusible component without frenulum yarn and the frenulum yarn or frenulum yarn can be closed by any other Suitable device is connected to each other or is connected in base fabric.

Fig. 6 B shows similar woven sheet 20g, for producing woven portion 34, it includes two frenulum yarn 61a and 61b.Frenulum yarn 61a, b provide the edge for extend beyond woven portion 34 as follows: by the way that frenulum yarn 61a, b to be woven into Piece 20g, then from wherein cutting the woven portion 34, but the frenulum yarn 61a, b extend beyond woven portion 34 in piece 20f Edge.In this embodiment, (it is cut from woven sheet 20g in two subsequent woven portions by frenulum yarn 61a, b ) between be not straight line.This allows to more efficiently use the space between subsequent woven portion.In exemplary " relaxation " point 64, frenulum yarn is not connected to base fabric 62.At illustrative fixed point 63, frenulum yarn 61a, b are connected to basis and knit On object 62.Therefore frenulum yarn 61a, b can easily be removed from base fabric 62 by only and a single point dismantles them It goes, such as passes through cutting.

In this embodiment, frenulum yarn 61a includes fusible component, and frenulum yarn 61b does not include, and the party Method further includes the fusible component in melting frenulum yarn 61a, so that frenulum yarn 61a can be in frenulum yarn 61a It is fixedly attached on warp thread and weft yarn at desired endpoint 65.Melting of the fusible component of frenulum yarn 61a at endpoint 65 Also carry out so that two frenulum yarn 61a and 61b and activating fusible component at selected tie point 65 each other It is fixedly connected.

Fig. 6 C shows the example of a part of the woven portion 34 comprising two frenulum yarns 61a and 61b.In this reality It applies in example, frenulum yarn 61a and 61b changes direction in break-resistance region 66 (it has the function similar with eyelet).It is anti-broken Split plot domain 66 includes tear-resistant yarn such as high-tenacity polyester or nylon, and any technology shape known in the art can be used At.By this method, frenulum yarn 61a and 61b can be used for adjusting the stickiness of vamp, and without the shoes torn in those regions The risk in face will be the largest here by the pulling force on the be applied to vamp of frenulum yarn 61a and 61b.

Woven sheet 20f and 20g shown in Fig. 6 A and 6B can be for example using shown in fabric manufacture equipment shown in FIG. 1 or Fig. 2 Weaving-machine produce.Then vamp by using conventional cutting or is cut by laser from woven sheet 20f, the upper cutting drawing 6A- of 20g Woven portion 34 shown in C are formed for either manually or automatically shoemaking.Shoes are then via connecting upper and finishing process shape At.

Woven portion 34 can be a part of vamp, for example, such as flap perhaps foxing or it can form base Whole vamp in sheet.

Appended drawing reference:

10: fabric manufacture equipment

11a: the warp thread of rising

11b: the warp thread of decline

12: weft yarn insertion point

13: aligning guide

14: pinprick

15: sewing yarn

16: vertical direction

17: weft direction

18: reed

19: open reed gap

20: woven sheet

21: Weaving-machine

22: spool

23: gearshift

32: cutting away region

33: eyelet

34: woven portion

35: warp thread direction

36: enhancing region

41: can dissolve yarn

61: frenulum yarn

62: base fabric

63: fixed point

64: relaxation point

65: tie point

66: break-resistance region

Claims

1. vamp, it includes woven portions, wherein the woven portion includes:

A. more a warp thread；

B. more a weft yarns；

C. at least one sewing yarn (15), wherein the sewing yarn (15) is during method for weaving, by by the sewing yarn (15) it is movable into and out in reed (18) at least substantially along weft direction (17) lateral displacement and by the sewing yarn (15) One open reed gap (19), carrys out integral weaving into fabric.

2. according to the vamp of preceding claims, wherein the stretch modulus of the sewing yarn (15) is greater than the warp thread and/or weft yarn Stretch modulus.

3. wherein the sewing yarn (15) includes fusible component according to the vamp of one of preceding claims.

4. wherein the sewing yarn (15) is located in the indsole region of shoes according to the vamp of one of preceding claims.

5. wherein the sewing yarn (15) is located in the 2cm of at least one eyelet according to the vamp of one of preceding claims.

6. wherein the sewing yarn (15) is located in the sole region of vamp according to the vamp of one of preceding claims.

7. wherein the woven portion includes that at least first (15) and second (15) are sewed according to the vamp of one of preceding claims Yarn, wherein second sewing yarn (15) is substantially parallel to first sewing yarn (15) introducing.

8. wherein at least one sewing yarn (15) is at least two different intertwined points according to the vamp of one of preceding claims Between with warp thread or weft yarn at 30 ° -60 ° of angle.

9. according to the vamp of preceding claims, wherein described two intertwined points are located in the indsole region of vamp.

10. according to the vamp of claim 8 or 9, wherein described two intertwined points are located in the 2cm of at least one eyelet.

11. wherein the woven portion further includes enhancing region (36), packet according to the vamp of one of preceding claims Contain:

A. at least one sewing yarn (15) along a first direction；

B. the sewing yarn (15) then becomes second direction, with first direction at least 30 degree of angle；

C. the sewing yarn (15) then becomes third direction, with second direction at least 30 degree of angle；With

D. the sewing yarn (15) then becomes fourth direction, with first direction at the angle less than 30 degree.

12. wherein at least one sewing yarn is frenulum yarn (61) according to the vamp of one of preceding claims, extend beyond The edge of woven portion and configuration to move in the woven portion.

13. according to the vamp of one of preceding claims, wherein at least one sewing yarn (41) and/or a weft yarn and/or one A warp thread can dissolve in a solvent.

14. wherein the solvent is water according to the vamp of preceding claims.

15. it is at least 0.1% that wherein the warp thread and/or weft yarn, which include volume fraction, according to the vamp of one of preceding claims Elastomer.

16. according to the vamp of one of preceding claims, the wherein base fabric (62) of woven portion (34), it includes warp thread and Weft yarn, but not including that sewing yarn (15), the quality of the base fabric are 15-700 grams/m.

17. the stretch modulus of wherein at least one sewing yarn (15) is at least 3GPa according to the vamp of one of preceding claims.

18. wherein at least one sewing yarn (15) includes high-tenacity polyester according to the vamp of one of preceding claims.

19. wherein at least one sewing yarn (15) includes polyamide material according to the vamp of one of preceding claims.

20. wherein at least one sewing yarn (15) includes carbon fiber according to the vamp of one of preceding claims.

21. plurality of sewing yarn (15) is along weft direction (17) at least 1 according to the vamp of one of preceding claims A sewing yarn end/centimetre density introduce.

22. wherein the weaving contains at least two sewing axis according to the vamp of one of preceding claims.

23. the method for manufacturing the woven portion of vamp, it includes:

A., multiple warp thread and multiple weft yarns are provided；

B. interweave multiple weft yarn and multiple warp thread；

C., at least one sewing yarn (15) is provided, warp thread is arranged essentially parallel to；With

D. during method for weaving, by by the sewing yarn (15) substantially along weft direction (17) lateral displacement and should Sewing yarn (15) is movable into and out at least one of reed (18) and opens reed gap (19), the next while sewing yarn that interweaves (15)。

24. wherein the reed (18) includes at least two groups reed gap (19), wherein first according to the method for preceding claims Group reed gap (19) is at least partly inserted into inclined-plane covering, and wherein second group of reed gap (19) is not inserted into inclined-plane Covering.

25. wherein the stretch modulus of the sewing yarn (15) is greater than warp thread and/or latitude according to the method for one of claim 23 or 24 The stretch modulus of yarn.

26. wherein the sewing yarn includes fusible component according to the method for one of claim 23-25.

27. wherein the sewing yarn (15) is located in the indsole region of vamp according to the method for one of claim 23-26.

28. wherein the sewing yarn (15) is located in the 2cm of at least one eyelet according to the method for one of claim 23-27.

29. wherein the sewing yarn (15) is located in the sole region of vamp according to the method for one of claim 23-28.

30. wherein this method includes to provide at least the first and second sewing yarns according to the method for one of claim 23-29 (15), and wherein second sewing yarn (15) is arranged essentially parallel to first sewing yarn (15) intertexture.

31. wherein at least one sewing yarn (15) is at least two different friendships according to the method for one of claim 23-30 It knits between a little, interweaves with warp thread or weft yarn at 30 ° -60 ° of angle.

32. according to the method for preceding claims, wherein two intertwined points are located in the indsole region of shoes.

33. according to the method for claim 31 or 32, wherein described two intertwined points are located in the 2cm of at least one eyelet.

34. wherein this method further includes to form enhancing region (36), packet according to the method for one of claim 23-33 Contain:

A. it sews along a first direction at least one sewing yarn (15)；

B. the direction of the sewing yarn (15) becomes second direction, with first direction at least 30 degree of angle；

C. the direction of the sewing yarn (15) becomes third direction, with second direction at least 30 degree of angle；With

D. the direction of the sewing yarn (15) becomes fourth direction, with first direction at the angle less than 30 degree.

35. further including according to the method for one of claim 23-34 and configuring frenulum yarn at least one sewing yarn (61), include: at least one sewing yarn being extended into the edge more than woven portion, and the sewing yarn is configured to weave It is moved in part.

36. according to the method for one of claim 23-35, wherein providing multiple warp thread and weft yarn and at least one sewing yarn packet It may be dissolved at least one sewing yarn (41) in solvent and/or a weft yarn and/or a warp thread containing providing, and this is solvable Solve warp thread, weft yarn and/or sewing yarn (41) dissolution in a solvent.

37. wherein the solvent is water according to the method for claim 36.

38. it is at least 0.1% that wherein the warp thread and/or weft yarn, which include volume fraction, according to the method for one of claim 23-37 Elastomer.

39. wherein the quality of the base fabric (62) of woven portion (34) is 15- according to the method for one of claim 23-38 700 grams/m, which includes warp thread and weft yarn, but not including that sewing yarn (15).

40. the stretch modulus of wherein at least one sewing yarn (15) is at least according to the method for one of claim 23-39 3GPa。

41. wherein at least one sewing yarn (15) includes high-tenacity polyester according to the method for one of claim 23-40.

42. wherein at least one sewing yarn (15) includes polyamide material according to the method for one of claim 23-41.

43. wherein at least one sewing yarn (15) includes carbon fiber according to the method for one of claim 23-42.

44. plurality of sewing yarn (15) is along weft direction (17) at least according to the method for one of claim 23-43 1 sewing yarn end/centimetre density introduce.

45. wherein the weaving contains at least two sewing axis according to the method for one of claim 23-44.