CN109423753A - 一种弹力面料的编织方法 - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种弹力面料的编织方法，包括如下步骤：(1)原料选择；(2)纺纱；(3)编织；(4)后整理。本发明本发明一种弹力面料的编织方法，思路新颖，设计独特，操作简便，容易实现，其采用具有优异弹性性能的氨纶纤维和腈纶纤维为弹性原料，以特定的工艺条件编织正双面夹层布结构，并将耐碱性差的氨纶纤维作为中间层，不仅提高了面料的弹性和服用性能，同时又赋予其良好耐用性和耐久性，有助于提高面料的使用寿命，市场前景广阔。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及面料编织技术领域，特别是涉及一种弹力面料的编织方法。
背景技术
随着人们生活水平的不断提高，人们对服装性能的要求不断提高。制作服装的面料本身的特性将很大程度上决定服装的品质。从衣着舒适、活动自如和人体曲线美等因素考虑，制作诸如内衣、运动服等服装面料，其需要弹力好的面料制作。现有的弹力面料大多由针织的方法制备而成，其弹性效果不好，特别是在长期使用后，会失去原来的弹性，使人穿着不便。
发明内容
本发明主要解决的技术问题是提供一种弹力面料的编织方法，能够解决现有方法制备的弹力面料存在的上述问题。
为解决上述技术问题，本发明采用的一个技术方案是：提供一种弹力面料的编织方法，包括如下步骤：
(1)原料选择：选择涤纶纤维、锦纶纤维、氨纶纤维和腈纶纤维作为弹力面料的原料；
(2)纺纱：包括梳毛、并条、粗纱、细纱、络筒、并线、倍捻和蒸纱工序其中，涤纶纤维和腈纶纤维混纺为第一纱线，锦纶纤维和氨纶纤维混纺为第二纱线；
(3)编织：在双面针织大圆机上，采用固定的织针排列、三角排列和穿纱方式将步骤(2)中的第一纱线和第二纱线编织成锦氨夹层布弹性面料；
(4)后整理：将步骤(3)中的坯布经初定形、开纤、水洗、开幅烘干和定型制备成成品弹力面料。
在本发明一个较佳实施例中，所述步骤(1)中，所述涤纶纤维的细度为2.78～2.97dtex，平均长度为55mm；所述锦纶纤维的细度为2.18～2.56dtex，平均长度为45mm；所述氨纶纤维的细度为1.71～1.93dtex，平均长度为40mm；所述腈纶纤维的细度为1.89～2.03dtex，平均长度为35mm。
在本发明一个较佳实施例中，所述步骤(2)中，所述第一纱线的规格为7.8tex/38f，涤纶纤维和腈纶纤维的混纺比例为1∶1，所述第二纱线的规格为7.8tex/38f，锦纶纤维和氨纶纤维的混纺比例为2∶1。
在本发明一个较佳实施例中，所述步骤(3)中，所述双面针织大圆机的规格为：4针道双面机，26针/25.4mm，路数90F，筒径780mm，总针数2898针。
在本发明一个较佳实施例中，所述步骤(3)中，所述织针排列为针盘织针的排序为AB、针筒织针的排序为AABB；所述三角排列为6F一个循环；所述穿纱方式为第1、4F穿入所述第一纱线，第2F、3F、5F、6F穿入所述第二纱线。
在本发明一个较佳实施例中，所述步骤(3)中，所述编织工艺为：穿纱张力为2～4cN；弯纱深度为2.35mm；织机转速为25r/min；第一纱线的线圈长度为25cm/100针，含量75％：第二纱线的线圈长度为18cm/100针，含量25％。
在本发明一个较佳实施例中，所述步骤(4)中，所述开纤的工艺条件为：烧碱含量3～4g/L，温度90～100℃，时间60～90min，开纤后的质量损失为5.8～6.4％。
在本发明一个较佳实施例中，所述弹力面料的规格为：双面夹层结构，克质量为245g/m2，幅宽为168cm。
本发明的有益效果是：本发明一种弹力面料的编织方法，思路新颖，设计独特，操作简便，容易实现，其采用具有优异弹性性能的氨纶纤维和腈纶纤维为弹性原料，以特定的工艺条件编织正双面夹层布结构，并将耐碱性差的氨纶纤维作为中间层，不仅提高了面料的弹性和服用性能，同时又赋予其良好耐用性和耐久性，有助于提高面料的使用寿命，市场前景广阔。
附图说明
图1是本发明一种弹力面料的编织方法的三角排列图；
附图中各部件的标记如下：∧.成圈三角，-.浮线三角，集圈三角。
具体实施方式
下面结合附图对本发明的较佳实施例进行详细阐述，以使本发明的优点和特征能更易于被本领域技术人员理解，从而对本发明的保护范围做出更为清楚明确的界定。
请参阅图1，本发明实施例包括：
实施例1
一种弹力面料的编织方法，具体步骤如下：
(1)原料选择：选择涤纶纤维、锦纶纤维、氨纶纤维和腈纶纤维作为弹力面料的原料；所述涤纶纤维的细度为2.78dtex，平均长度为55mm；所述锦纶纤维的细度为2.18dtex，平均长度为45mm；所述氨纶纤维的细度为1.71dtex，平均长度为40mm；所述腈纶纤维的细度为1.89dtex，平均长度为35mm；
(2)纺纱：包括梳毛、并条、粗纱、细纱、络筒、并线、倍捻和蒸纱工序其中，涤纶纤维和腈纶纤维以质量比1∶1混纺为第一纱线，锦纶纤维和氨纶纤维以质量比2∶1混纺为第二纱线；第一纱线的规格为7.8tex/38f，第二纱线的规格为7.8tex/38f；
(3)编织：在规格为26针/25.4mm，路数90F，筒径780mm，总针数2898针的4针道双面针织大圆机上，采用固定的织针排列、三角排列和穿纱方式将步骤(2)中的第一纱线和第二纱线编织成锦氨夹层布弹性面料；
其中，所述织针排列为针盘织针的排序为AB、针筒织针的排序为AABB；所述三角排列为6F一个循环；所述穿纱方式为第1、4F穿入所述第一纱线，第2F、3F、5F、6F穿入所述第二纱线；
具体编织工艺为：穿纱张力为2cN；弯纱深度为2.35mm；织机转速为25r/min；第一纱线的线圈长度为25cm/100针，含量75％：第二纱线的线圈长度为18cm/100针，含量25％。
(4)后整理：将步骤(3)中的坯布经初定形、开纤、水洗、开幅烘干和定型制备成成品弹力面料，其中，所述开纤的工艺条件为：烧碱含量3g/L，温度100℃，时间60min，开纤后的质量损失为5.8％。
实施例2
一种弹力面料的编织方法，具体步骤如下：
(1)原料选择：选择涤纶纤维、锦纶纤维、氨纶纤维和腈纶纤维作为弹力面料的原料；所述涤纶纤维的细度为2.97dtex，平均长度为55mm；所述锦纶纤维的细度为2.56dtex，平均长度为45mm；所述氨纶纤维的细度为1.93dtex，平均长度为40mm；所述腈纶纤维的细度为2.03dtex，平均长度为35mm。
(2)纺纱：包括梳毛、并条、粗纱、细纱、络筒、并线、倍捻和蒸纱工序其中，涤纶纤维和腈纶纤维以质量比1∶1混纺为第一纱线，锦纶纤维和氨纶纤维以质量比2∶1混纺为第二纱线；第一纱线的规格为7.8tex/38f，第二纱线的规格为7.8tex/38f；
(3)编织：在规格为26针/25.4mm，路数90F，筒径780mm，总针数2898针的4针道双面针织大圆机上，采用固定的织针排列、三角排列和穿纱方式将步骤(2)中的第一纱线和第二纱线编织成锦氨夹层布弹性面料；
其中，所述织针排列为针盘织针的排序为AB、针筒织针的排序为AABB；所述三角排列为6F一个循环；所述穿纱方式为第1、4F穿入所述第一纱线，第2F、3F、5F、6F穿入所述第二纱线；
具体编织工艺为：穿纱张力为4cN；弯纱深度为2.35mm；织机转速为25r/min；第一纱线的线圈长度为25cm/100针，含量75％：第二纱线的线圈长度为18cm/100针，含量25％。
(4)后整理：将步骤(3)中的坯布经初定形、开纤、水洗、开幅烘干和定型制备成成品弹力面料，其中，所述开纤的工艺条件为：烧碱含量4g/L，温度90℃，时间90min，开纤后的质量损失为6.4％。
由上述方法编织而成的成品弹力面料的规格为：双面夹层结构，克质量为245g/m2，幅宽为168cm。
氨纶纤维和腈纶纤维均具有优异的弹性性能，其中，腈纶纤维还具有良好的强力，将这两种纤维分别与涤纶纤维和锦纶纤维混纺，可有效提高编织面料的弹性性能。
以上所述仅为本发明的实施例，并非因此限制本发明的专利范围，凡是利用本发明说明书及附图内容所作的等效结构或等效流程变换，或直接或间接运用在其他相关的技术领域，均同理包括在本发明的专利保护范围内。
Claims (8)
1.一种弹力面料的编织方法，其特征在于，包括如下步骤：
(1)原料选择：选择涤纶纤维、锦纶纤维、氨纶纤维和腈纶纤维作为弹力面料的原料；
(2)纺纱：包括梳毛、并条、粗纱、细纱、络筒、并线、倍捻和蒸纱工序其中，涤纶纤维和腈纶纤维混纺为第一纱线，锦纶纤维和氨纶纤维混纺为第二纱线；
(3)编织：在双面针织大圆机上，采用固定的织针排列、三角排列和穿纱方式将步骤(2)中的第一纱线和第二纱线编织成锦氨夹层布弹性面料；
(4)后整理：将步骤(3)中的坯布经初定形、开纤、水洗、开幅烘干和定型制备成成品弹力面料。
2.根据权利要求1所述的弹力面料的编织方法，其特征在于，所述步骤(1)中，所述涤纶纤维的细度为2.78～2.97dtex，平均长度为55mm；所述锦纶纤维的细度为2.18～2.56dtex，平均长度为45mm；所述氨纶纤维的细度为1.71～1.93dtex，平均长度为40mm；所述腈纶纤维的细度为1.89～2.03dtex，平均长度为35mm。
3.根据权利要求1所述的弹力面料的编织方法，其特征在于，所述步骤(2)中，所述第一纱线的规格为7.8tex/38f，涤纶纤维和腈纶纤维的混纺比例为1∶1，所述第二纱线的规格为7.8tex/38f，锦纶纤维和氨纶纤维的混纺比例为2∶1。
4.根据权利要求1所述的弹力面料的编织方法，其特征在于，所述步骤(3)中，所述双面针织大圆机的规格为：4针道双面机，26针/25.4mm，路数90F，筒径780mm，总针数2898针。
5.根据权利要求1所述的弹力面料的编织方法，其特征在于，所述步骤(3)中，所述织针排列为针盘织针的排序为AB、针筒织针的排序为AABB；所述三角排列为6F一个循环；所述穿纱方式为第1、4F穿入所述第一纱线，第2F、3F、5F、6F穿入所述第二纱线。
6.根据权利要求1所述的弹力面料的编织方法，其特征在于，所述步骤(3)中，所述编织工艺为：穿纱张力为2～4cN；弯纱深度为2.35mm；织机转速为25r/min；第一纱线的线圈长度为25cm/100针，含量75％：第二纱线的线圈长度为18cm/100针，含量25％。
7.根据权利要求1所述的弹力面料的编织方法，其特征在于，所述步骤(4)中，所述开纤的工艺条件为：烧碱含量3～4g/L，温度90～100℃，时间60～90min，开纤后的质量损失为5.8～6.4％。
8.根据权利要求1至7之一所述的弹力面料的编织方法，其特征在于，所述弹力面料的规格为：双面夹层结构，克质量为245g/m2，幅宽为168cm。
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| CN110923939A (zh) * | 2019-12-09 | 2020-03-27 | 浙江省长兴丝绸有限公司 | 一种弹力面料的经编针织工艺 |
| CN113123008A (zh) * | 2021-04-15 | 2021-07-16 | 宁波吾焱服饰科技有限公司 | 一种混纺高弹环保双面布的生产工艺 |
| CN113684598A (zh) * | 2021-08-18 | 2021-11-23 | 广东德润纺织有限公司 | 一种纬编瑜伽裤面料及其制备方法 |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN110923939A (zh) * | 2019-12-09 | 2020-03-27 | 浙江省长兴丝绸有限公司 | 一种弹力面料的经编针织工艺 |
| CN113123008A (zh) * | 2021-04-15 | 2021-07-16 | 宁波吾焱服饰科技有限公司 | 一种混纺高弹环保双面布的生产工艺 |
| CN113684598A (zh) * | 2021-08-18 | 2021-11-23 | 广东德润纺织有限公司 | 一种纬编瑜伽裤面料及其制备方法 |
| CN113684598B (zh) * | 2021-08-18 | 2022-08-02 | 广东德润纺织有限公司 | 一种纬编瑜伽裤面料及其制备方法 |
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