CN109385728B - Textile fabric design with environment moisture response capability and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Textile fabric design with environment moisture response capability and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN109385728B
CN109385728B CN201710686062.6A CN201710686062A CN109385728B CN 109385728 B CN109385728 B CN 109385728B CN 201710686062 A CN201710686062 A CN 201710686062A CN 109385728 B CN109385728 B CN 109385728B
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fabric
yarn
yarns
textured
moisture
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CN109385728A (en
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胡军岩
陈长荣
孙华叶
昝涛
丁晓峰
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Best Pacific Textile Ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/49Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads textured; curled; crimped
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D03D15/225Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based artificial, e.g. viscose
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/567Shapes or effects upon shrinkage
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/10Open-work fabrics
    • D04B21/12Open-work fabrics characterised by thread material

Abstract

The invention relates to design and application of an environment-responsive functional fabric. The fabric can intelligently adjust the air permeability and the moisture permeability of the fabric according to the difference of the sweat accumulation on the surface of the skin of a wearer in different exercise states. The fabric is inspired by the fact that the opening and closing degree of air holes on leaves in the nature can be automatically adjusted according to the amount of moisture in the environment and the demand of the air holes on the leaves per se for the moisture so as to adjust the evaporation capacity of the moisture per se, and the fabric comprises (1) longitudinal textured yarns; (2) a crosswise textured yarn; (3) a base structure yarn. The longitudinal deformation yarn is stressed or the longitudinal length of the longitudinal deformation yarn is elongated after moisture absorption; the transverse diameter of the transverse textured yarn becomes thicker obviously after moisture absorption; the base structure yarns have less variation in fiber geometry upon moisture absorption. The design method enables the produced fabric to automatically increase the porosity among the yarns of the fabric along with the increase of the amount of sweat on the surface of the skin, and reduce the contact area of the fabric and the skin so as to improve the air and water vapor permeability and the contact comfort of the fabric. The evaporation of sweat on the skin surface is enhanced as much as possible, so that the relative temperature of the microclimate environment between clothes is reduced, and the heat dissipation capability of the fabric is enhanced. Under the condition of low exercise amount, the air holes are closed, the porosity of the fabric is reduced to reduce the air permeability and the moisture permeability, and compared with the fabric in the sweating state, the warm keeping capacity of the fabric can be improved.

Description

Textile fabric design with environment moisture response capability and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of textiles, in particular to a design and a preparation method of a textile flexible fabric which is directly contacted with human skin, intelligently adjusts the air permeability of the fabric according to the difference of sweat volumes on the surface of the skin under the condition of different exercise amounts, and improves the comfortable feeling of the contact between the fabric and the skin.
Background
With the continuous improvement of living standard of people, various requirements are correspondingly generated on the fabric of the clothes, and how to improve the wearing comfort of the fabric becomes one of the research hotspots in the textile field. The functional fabric with the heat and humidity adjusting function is more important for research on improving the comfort of working and sportswear clothes. Through the search of patents, the inventor can clearly see that the fabrics with the functions related to heat conduction and moisture conduction have a plurality of prior inventions.
Particularly, most consumers and researchers have recognized that in the exercise process, along with the increase of the metabolism rate of the human body, the core body temperature of the human body rises, and the physiological mechanism of sweating is triggered to realize the heat dissipation of the human body and realize the heat balance. On the other hand, sweat on the surface of the skin often gives uncomfortable feeling to the wearer, so that a large number of patent reports exist at present for designing and preparing the fabric with the functional characteristics of moisture absorption, quick drying, one-way moisture transmission and the like from multiple aspects of material selection, fabric structure design, after finishing and the like. For example: in patent application CN 106012538A, "manufacturing method of moisture-absorbing and quick-drying unidirectional moisture-conducting double-layer fabric" reports that a double-layer fabric gray fabric is woven by using cationic polyester yarns and polyester filaments, and then the double-layer fabric gray fabric is processed by using a modified refining agent LS01 to obtain the moisture-absorbing and quick-drying unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric. The patent application CN 105725319A "moisture absorption quick-drying knitted jean shirt fabric" is composed of a modified polyester staple fiber Porel moisture absorption quick-drying fiber with a capillary waist circular inner cavity structure, cotton blended colored yarn and spandex yarn, and has the characteristics of good moisture absorption quick-drying effect, soft and light hand feeling, very similar appearance effect to woven jean fabric, and fabric elasticity superior to that of the woven jean fabric. In patent application CN 106283368A, "an antibacterial, deodorant, moisture-absorbing and quick-drying knitted fabric" production process adopts a nano-scale silver-based antibacterial substance to provide excellent antibacterial and deodorant functions, and utilizes the section of an improved groove-shaped fiber to bring remarkable moisture-absorbing and quick-drying effects, and pure silver components in the fiber can kill various common germs harmful to human bodies in a short time and remove sweat odor; patent CN 205741455U "a moisture-permeable quick-drying moisture-absorbing heating fabric", the fabric includes: the front layer is made of nylon and terylene blended yarns for coating the spandex, the reverse layer is made of moisture absorption and heating terylene yarns, the moisture absorption and heating terylene yarns are connected with the front layer yarns in a tucking mode and are in a 1:2 twill structure, and moisture absorption and quick drying auxiliaries are coated on the surfaces of the front layer and the reverse layer. The functions of moisture absorption, heat generation, moisture permeability and quick drying are realized; other, for example, patent application CN 105088802 a, "a dyed fabric moisture absorption and quick drying finishing process", provides a dyed fabric moisture absorption and quick drying finishing process, and the finishing process is as follows: the colored woven fabric is immersed in the moisture absorption quick-drying finishing agent, wherein the moisture absorption quick-drying finishing agent consists of a surfactant and polyether amino modified silicone oil, the rolling and baking process method is adopted, the horizontal wicking and diffusivity of the finished fabric are improved by 260%, and the moisture conductivity, the hand feeling and the elasticity are good; the patent application CN 103276601A, "a dyeing and finishing process of moisture-absorbing and quick-drying fabric", adopts the process flows of grey cloth pre-shaping → pretreatment of deoiling and desizing → dyeing → reduction cleaning → defiberizing finishing → moisture-absorbing and quick-drying finishing → shaping, not only can maintain the moisture-absorbing and sweat-releasing function of the fabric, but also can maintain the hydrophobic and quick-drying function, and can meet the requirements of moisture absorption and quick drying of the fabric. The moisture absorption and quick drying functions are realized from the aspect of after-finishing.
The functional fabric plays the function permanently no matter the fabric absorbs moisture and dries quickly or conducts moisture in one direction. Of course, in the case of human perspiration, the above function is to help the wearer quickly drain water to the outer surface of the fabric for comfort. However, this function often leads to increased skin dryness, particularly in the case of elderly or women who are relatively dry in winter climates, since the garment is not worn during the entire period of sweating. Severe causes of scaly skin and itching, premature skin aging or cracking. Therefore, the design of new functional fabrics or garments in the world has started to focus on regulating the emission of body moisture during the wearing process. As US20140000004A1, "Article of Apparel with Variable Air permeability" reports that increasing the amount of Air permeability in the hyperhidrosis regions of the human body by garment design achieves different moisture permeability in different regions. US 20080057809a1 "Temperature and motion responsive small textile" is coated with a hydrogel coating on the surface of a fabric that exhibits expansion or contraction in response to changes in relative humidity or exposure to liquid perspiration to alter the overall thermal and moisture conductive ability of the fabric. A research paper (motion-responsive films of cellulose stearate polyesters displaying reversible shape transitions, Sci Rep.2015August 05; 5:12390.) published in the journal of science in 2015 reports a film that can be rolled and stretched with changes in humidity.
Meanwhile, people pay more attention to the innovation of intelligent materials which are stimulated by the change of environmental conditions to generate corresponding reactions. For example, US20130344761a1, and US 8389100B2 both report that different materials or fibers encounter an increase in humidity at ambient humidity, and the curling or stretching of the fibers is achieved by the compounding of the bicomponent material; chinese patent application 201610058509.0 also reports a humidity sensitive stretchable polyaniline conductive fiber and a preparation method thereof, wherein a conductive layer formed by protonic acid doped polyaniline is uniformly coated on cotton yarns in spandex threads, so that the conductive fiber is sensitive to humidity, and the conductivity of the conductive fiber obviously changes with humidity. Chinese patent CN 1844553 a, an environment responsive intelligent textile fabric and a preparation method thereof report that a textile fabric which is subjected to argon microwave low-temperature plasma initiation treatment and generates free radicals on the surface is added into a binary monomer solution of 2-acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and N-isopropylacrylamide containing an N, N' -methylenebisacrylamide crosslinking agent to perform a graft polymerization reaction, so that the generated binary intelligent gel is grafted on fiber macromolecules of the textile fabric. The textile fabric is not different from common fabrics in a dry state at ordinary times, but gel on the fabric absorbs water and swells when meeting water to block pores among fabric fibers, so that the water permeability and the air permeability of the fabric are reduced, external water can be prevented from permeating into the fabric lining, and internal heat can be prevented from diffusing outwards, therefore, the textile fabric can be used for manufacturing military immersion-resistant clothes, heat-storage temperature-regulating special clothes, heat-insulation protective clothes and the like. The preparation method of the modified polyester filamentous structure capable of absorbing moisture and extending in Chinese patent CN102041578B reports that the water absorption elongation of the modified polyester filamentous structure is 10% -50% under the condition of 35 ℃ and 95% humidity.
As can be seen from the description of the above-mentioned comparison documents, the prior art achieves specific technical effects by purposely changing the chemical composition and structure of the raw material fiber, so that the fiber yarn is changed along with the change of the external environment. These approaches inevitably increase the design difficulty and reduce the design flexibility, increasing the production cost.
The invention defines a novel functional fabric, which utilizes the known characteristics of the prior raw yarn and adopts a novel design on a textile weave structure, so that the produced fabric can change the physical characteristics of the fabric along with the stimulation of environment change (such as temperature, humidity and the like). Therefore, the fabric can realize the effect of keeping warm by normal ventilation amount under the condition of no sweating, and the existence of sweat can change the geometric dimensions of yarns in different directions under the condition of sweating, thereby increasing the through gaps of the fabric to achieve the effect of enhancing cooling and heat dissipation or dampness. Through patent retrieval, the report that different moisture-conducting functions are realized without changing the amount of the human body surface sweat by utilizing the design of an intelligent material structure fabric organizational structure is not reported at present.
Disclosure of Invention
The technical problem to be solved by the invention is to provide a principle and a design method of a textile fabric with intelligent air permeability and moisture permeability adjustment capability aiming at the defects in the prior art. Thereby contributing to improving the wearing comfort of the garment.
The design method of the invention is based on the characteristics of textile materials and the weave structure design of the fabric, and creatively ensures that the produced flexible fabric not only has soft and smooth skin contact comfort of modern fabric, but also can automatically increase the porosity among the fabric yarns along with the increase of the sweat amount on the surface of the skin to improve the permeability of the fabric air and the water vapor, reduce the accumulation of the sweat on the surface of the skin as much as possible, and simultaneously enhance the heat dissipation capacity of the fabric. Under the condition of low exercise amount, the pores are closed as much as possible, the porosity of the fabric is reduced to reduce the air permeability and the moisture permeability, and the heat retention capability of the fabric can be further improved compared with the fabric in the sweat state.
Through analysis of the material properties, the present inventors have found that many commercially available materials are characterized by different hygroscopic deformation, such as viscose: a synthetic fibre is prepared from cellulose extracted from wood and Chinese ligusticum through spinning to obtain spinning solution, and wet spinning. Its advantages are high hydroscopicity, high expansion after hydroscopicity, and 50% diameter increase; silk has strong hygroscopicity. The moisture regain of the mulberry silk can reach 8-9%. The tussah silk reaches more than 10 percent, the moisture absorption can reach 35 percent when reaching saturation, and the dissipation speed is high. After moisture absorption the fibers expanded and the diameter increased 65% (https:// www.bianhua8.com/articule/35332). The VENTCOL yarn developed by Mitsubishi Chemical, Japan, can change from crimp to unbend after moisture absorption to reduce the diameter of the yarn and increase the length (http:// mrtx. co. jp/en/sozai/VENTCOOL. html.).
The realization method comprises the following steps:
materials are prepared, all materials having specific requirements such as hygroscopic swelling or/and hygroscopic elongation or/and elastic deformation properties, and the weave structure of the fabric also having specific rules of arrangement. The fabric at least comprises three yarns with different changes of the physical and geometrical properties of the fibers after moisture absorption, and the yarns are respectively named as (1) longitudinal textured yarns; (2) a crosswise textured yarn; (3) a base structure yarn. The transverse diameter of the longitudinal textured yarn becomes thin after stress or moisture absorption, and the longitudinal length is elongated; after moisture absorption, the transverse diameter of the transverse textured yarn becomes thicker obviously, and the longitudinal length of the transverse textured yarn becomes shorter or unchanged; the base structure yarns have less variation in fiber geometry upon moisture absorption.
For woven fabrics:
a. the warp (weft) of the woven fabric comprises at least 2% of the machine direction textured yarns. The yarn has the characteristics of water absorption elongation or force elongation. The longitudinal elongation capability is at least greater than 2%. And the preferable usage amount of the yarn is more than 50 percent and can reach 100 percent.
b. The weft (warp) of the woven fabric can adopt the transverse textured yarn in cooperation with the weft. The selection of the cross-direction textured yarn may be selected based on the official moisture regain of the yarn material, which in the present invention requires a fiber official moisture regain of > 3%, preferably > 7%.
c. The warp or weft yarns of the woven fabric may also be selected from different base structure yarns according to different functional designs. The requirement of the base structure yarn is that, in addition to the required function, it is particularly required in the present invention that the cross direction swell deformation after moisture absorption is <1%, and therefore the official moisture regain of the fiber is < 13%, preferably < 7%.
The design on weft-knitted fabrics has the following characteristics:
a. the first path or the continuous N paths adopt transverse textured yarns. The choice can be made according to the official moisture regain of the yarn material, which in the present invention requires a official moisture regain of the fibres of > 3%, preferably > 7%.
b. In a) above, one or more consecutive N lengthwise-textured yarns are arranged immediately after the yarn. Its longitudinal elongation change capacity is at least greater than 2%. And the preferable usage amount of the yarn is more than 50 percent and can reach 100 percent.
c. One or N consecutive third yarns, basic structure fibers, are arranged behind the yarns in b) above. The yarn is selected such that it has a cross direction swell deformation after moisture absorption of <1% and therefore requires a official moisture regain of the fiber of < 13%, preferably < 7%.
The double-sided fabric of the above inventive principle is also included in the warp knit fabric and has the following features:
a. firstly, longitudinal textured yarns are selected and placed in GB1 or other comb joints to adopt a certain yarn laying structure, and the yarn threading method adopts a full-threading method or any empty-threading method. The longitudinal elongation capability is at least greater than 2%. And the preferable usage amount of the yarn is more than 50 percent and can reach 100 percent.
b. The crosswise textured yarn is placed in GB2 or other comb joints and adopts a certain yarn laying structure, and the yarn threading method adopts a full-through method or any empty-through method. The choice can be made according to the official moisture regain of the yarn material, which in the present invention requires a official moisture regain of the fibres of > 3%, preferably > 7%.
c. The basic structure yarn is placed in GB3 or other comb joints to adopt a certain yarn laying structure, and the yarn threading method adopts full threading or any empty threading method. The yarn is selected such that it has a cross direction swell deformation after moisture absorption of <1% and therefore requires a official moisture regain of the fiber of < 13%, preferably < 7%.
The above inventive principles are also included in double-sided fabrics.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic representation of the basic elements and variations of an example of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is the basic theory of the present invention: calculating the length of the common tangent line in the two circles;
FIG. 3 is a model of calculating the length of the tangent of the circle according to the basic theory of the present invention;
FIG. 4 is a model of a basic woven fabric computing unit according to the present invention;
FIG. 5 is a twill woven fabric calculation example;
FIG. 6 is a schematic of an exemplary base unit and variation of the present invention;
FIG. 7 is a schematic diagram of a basic unit and a variation of a warp knitting top view example of the present invention; and
FIG. 8 is a schematic diagram of the basic unit and the deformation of the warp knitted side example of the present invention.
The invention will be further explained with reference to the drawings and examples:
from fig. 1, we can clearly show the principle of the present invention. Woven fabrics are known in the art as continuous flexible cellular materials consisting of warp and weft yarns in a certain weave pattern. The heat and moisture transfer characteristics of the fabric play a key role in the aspect of human body heat comfort in the process of wearing, and the heat preservation and heat dissipation effects of the garment need to be balanced according to different movement states (metabolic rates) of a wearer. Dynamic equilibrium in a wide range corresponding to various environments and human body motion states is one of the major concerns of researchers, particularly how to achieve moisture equilibrium on the skin surface. The air permeability of the fabric is one of the key indicators and is closely related to the structure of the fabric, depending on the space between the yarns. The larger the void, the better the breathability and the worse the warmth. In view of the above considerations, the basic cell of fig. 1(a) shows the fabric in a condition of non-dominant perspiration, with only J2 of the warp yarns (J1, J2, J3) having hygroscopic swelling, while J1 is the base structure yarn, and J3 is the base structure yarn or the elastic yarn; the weft yarns (W1, W2, W3) are fabrics W1, W3 which are basic structure yarns whose yarn geometry remains substantially unchanged after perspiration on exercise, and W2 is a machine direction textured yarn which is significantly attenuated and elongated after moisture absorption. The structural characteristics of the fabric will therefore result in two variations:
1. the voids between the yarns increase significantly, which results in increased air permeability;
2. the base structure yarns and the longitudinal and transverse textured yarns exist in the fabric simultaneously, so that the fabric can be partially deformed after moisture absorption in the thickness direction and the length and width directions simultaneously, and the original flat fabric surface is fluctuated and uneven. Thereby effectively reducing the contact area of the fabric and the skin when the fabric sweats.
The basic geometrical principle that the fabric yarns increase the void in the fabric structure after becoming thicker or longer after moisture absorption can be used for verification. Figures 2 and 3 show possible configurations of the yarns in the woven fabric, respectively.
The basic theory of the present invention is shown in FIG. 2, which is a calculation model of the length of the common tangent line in two circles. The calculation of the envelope of the circle and the length of the common tangent has been discussed in detail in the geometry, and the detailed explanation and discussion are not made here, but the corresponding calculation results are simply listed. The length of the internal common tangent P1P2 to the two circles (C1 as the center of the first circle, R1 as the radius; C2 as the center of the second circle, R2 as the radius; distance d between the two centers) can be converted into the calculation of the triangle C1C 2C. Thus, the following formula can be obtained
Figure GDA0003168502500000061
Cos a=(R1+R2)/d
∠a+∠b=90
Figure GDA0003168502500000062
The calculation of the common tangent P1P2 outside the two circles by the same method can also obtain the following formula
Sin a=(R2-R1)/d
Figure GDA0003168502500000063
∠a+∠b=90
Figure GDA0003168502500000064
It can be obtained that the length of the common tangent line of both the inner circle and the outer circle can be calculated, and by combining the change of the fabric in the thickness direction with the demonstration of fig. 1(b), the fabric designed by the method of the invention can achieve the increase of the air permeability (the increase of the opening space) of the fabric under the condition of absorbing moisture.
Detailed Description
Example one
The invention provides a fabric yarn which can open a structure after absorbing moisture to increase the ventilation area, reduce the flatness of the surface of the fabric and improve the wearing comfort after sweating by utilizing the difference of moisture absorption reaction of different materials (yarns) after absorbing moisture.
Fig. 4 is a schematic diagram of the present example. This is a typical plain weave structure. In this unit:
● warp C1 is basic structure yarn, the selected material is common terylene (100% terylene yarn, 40S, folded yarn: 1, Zhejiang province Zhu Chi city civil textile Co., Ltd.) and the moisture regain is 1.5%;
● C2 is a hygroscopic transversely textured yarn, the material selected is viscose (component and content: 100% viscose, count: 40s, ply: 1, commercial line of Dalangeyou male textiles, Dongguan). The moisture regain is about 12%. Viscose fibres according to the encyclopedia description of Baidu (http:// baike. baidu. com/item/% E7% B2% 98% E8% 83% B6% E7% BA% A4% E7% BB% B4) have good moisture absorption and a moisture regain of around 13% under normal atmospheric conditions. After moisture absorption, the material is obviously expanded, and the diameter can be increased by 50 percent.
● C3 is identical to C1
● weft yarn is prepared by mixing VENTCOOL with ordinary terylene 1: weft in order 1 (VENTCOL, MITSUBISHI RAYON Japan, http:// mrtx. co. jp/en/sozai/VENTCOOL. html); the ordinary polyester yarn parameters were consistent with the C1 yarn.
FIG. 4 is a basic shuttle fabric calculation unit model of the present invention from FIG. 4 showing that when the fabric absorbs moisture, the C2 yarn diameter changes from R3 to R2, while the diameters of the base structure yarns C1, and C3 do not change. Meanwhile, the longitudinal deformation yarn of the weft adopts the moisture absorption elongation yarn, so that the diameter of the longitudinal deformation yarn is reduced, and the length of the longitudinal deformation yarn is increased. According to the theoretical introduction part of the invention, the gaps among the yarns of the fabric are increased, and the air permeability is improved; while the presence of the base structure yarn, due to its relatively low moisture regain, has little change in geometry. Thus also causing unevenness of the fabric surface. Meanwhile, due to the existence of the basic structure yarns, after the longitudinal deformation yarns are elongated, the external force acting on the fabric is almost born by the basic structure yarns, so that the problem of low wet strength of the viscose fabric is also improved.
Example two
On the basis of the first example, the following twill structure can be constructed. In this construction the warp yarn is added with a piece of C4, the material of which has the same properties as C1. The design of the weft yarns and the arrangement of the weft insertion sequence are the same as in the first embodiment. The main change is a plain weave structure as in example one, where the yarns are woven in a one-over-one-under, and in a two-over-one-under twill weave structure. From fig. 5, it can be obtained that after the fabric absorbs moisture, the thickness of the crosswise textured yarn increases to drive the longitudinal textured yarn to rise, the thickness of the fabric at the position of the crosswise textured yarn also increases correspondingly to drive the gap between the longitudinal textured yarn and the adjacent yarn, and the thinning of the longitudinal textured yarn in the process of elongation further strengthens the trend of increasing the gap. Thus, FIG. 5 clearly reveals that the fabric design method of the present invention can be implemented on a variety of fabric structures, while those skilled in the art can implement a variety of different combinations of structures and materials in light of the principles of the present invention.
FIG. 5 twill woven fabric calculation example
Example three weft knitted single face Fabric
(a) Plain weave fabric an exemplary base unit (b) of the present invention is a schematic view of the change of the base unit after moisture absorption
FIG. 6 illustrates an exemplary basic cell and deformation scheme of the present invention
Figure 6 is one of the constructions and yarn combinations that may be weft knitted, again using the principles of the present invention. The heat and moisture transfer characteristics of the fabric play a key role in the aspect of human body heat comfort in the process of wearing, and the heat preservation and heat dissipation effects of the garment need to be balanced according to different movement states (metabolic rates) of a wearer.
The basic cell of figure 6(a) shows the fabric in a condition of non-overt perspiration with L1 black (warp knit identically represented) as the cd textured yarn, L2 gray (warp knit identically represented) as the md textured yarn, and L3 white (warp knit identically represented) as the base structure yarn. (b) When the fabric is longitudinally textured after sweating by exercise, the fabric becomes significantly thinner and longer after absorbing moisture, such as H' > H. The L3 base structure yarn substantially retains its original shape, thereby ensuring that the fabric remains relatively stable after perspiration from exercise. The structural characteristics of the fabric will therefore result in three variations:
1. the machine direction textured yarns become elongated after moisture absorption as seen in the top view of the fabric of figure 6. Because of the stability of the geometrical dimensions of the base structure yarns, the size of the loop can be kept constant, while the length of the loop column is equal to H' > H. The area of the coil is also increased and the area of the heat dissipation vent provided is correspondingly increased.
2. After sweating, the cross-sectional diameter of the transversely deformed yarn is increased in the cross-sectional direction, as in the tatting principle. The cross-sectional area of the fabric is increased due to the fact that the moisture absorption diameter of the transverse deformation yarn is increased, and the air holes provided by the fabric after sweating are increased.
3. The base structure yarns and the longitudinal and transverse textured yarns exist in the fabric simultaneously, so that the fabric can be partially deformed after moisture absorption in the thickness direction and the length and width directions simultaneously, and the original flat fabric surface is fluctuated and uneven. Thereby effectively reducing the contact area of the fabric and the skin when the fabric sweats.
Regarding the ability of the textile yarns to increase the voids in the textile structure after moisture absorption thickening or lengthening we can use the basic geometrical principles to verify, the calculation principles and methods refer to fig. 3
The double-faced fabric and the fabric with the changed weave thereof according to the above invention principle are also included
Example four-warp knit
FIG. 7 is a schematic diagram showing a warp knitted top view of an exemplary base unit of the present invention, (a) a plain woven fabric, (b) a change of the base unit after moisture absorption of the exemplary base unit of the present invention
(a) Plain weave fabric an exemplary base unit (b) of the present invention is a schematic view of the change of the base unit after moisture absorption
Fig. 7 and 8 are views of one of the constructions and yarn combinations in a warp knit, again utilizing the principles of the present invention. The heat and moisture transfer characteristics of the fabric play a key role in the aspect of human body heat comfort in the process of wearing, and the heat preservation and heat dissipation effects of the garment need to be balanced according to different movement states (metabolic rates) of a wearer.
The basic cell of fig. 7(a) shows the fabric in a non-overt sweat condition with the black being the crosswise yams, the gray being the lengthwise yams, and the white being the base structure yams. (b) When the fabric is longitudinally textured after sweating by exercise, the fabric becomes significantly thinner and longer after absorbing moisture, such as H' > H. The basic structure yarn basically keeps the original shape, so that the fabric still has strong stability after sweating in sports, and the longitudinal coil density is basically not changed. The structural characteristics of the fabric will therefore result in three variations:
1. the machine direction textured yarns become elongated after moisture absorption as seen in the top view of the fabric of figure 7. Because of the dimensional stability of the base structure yarn, the size of the loops can be kept constant, i.e., equivalent to D ═ D ', while the elongation lines are the elongation of the machine direction textured yarns due to moisture absorption, i.e., equivalent to H' > H. The area of the coil is also increased and the area of the heat dissipation vent provided is correspondingly increased.
2. After sweat is generated after movement, the cross section of the transversely deformed yarn in the cross section direction is enlarged like the weaving principle when the fabric is seen from the side view of the fabric in the figure 8. The transverse height of the fabric is increased due to the fact that the moisture absorption diameter of the transverse textured yarn is increased, the extension line is lengthened due to the longitudinal textured yarn, and the distance H' > H between two wales is large. The cross-sectional area becomes larger according to the calculation of the geometric principle, so that the air holes provided by the fabric after sweating become larger.
3. The base structure yarns and the longitudinal and transverse textured yarns exist in the fabric simultaneously, so that the fabric can be partially deformed after moisture absorption in the thickness direction and the length and width directions simultaneously, and the original flat fabric surface is fluctuated and uneven. Thereby effectively reducing the contact area of the fabric and the skin when the fabric sweats.
Regarding the ability of the textile yarns to increase the voids in the textile structure after moisture absorption thickening or lengthening we can use the basic geometrical principles to verify, the calculation principles and methods refer to fig. 3.
The warp-knitted double-sided fabric according to the above inventive principle is also included.
The flexible fabric of the invention, wherein the lengthwise textured yarn is warp yarn, at least accounts for 5% of the warp yarn, and has a lengthwise elongation after absorbing water of more than 2%.
The flexible fabric of the invention, wherein the longitudinal deformation yarn is weft yarn, at least accounts for 5 percent of the weft yarn, and the longitudinal elongation after water absorption is more than 2 percent.
The flexible fabric of the invention, wherein the crosswise textured yarns are weft yarns, account for 50% of the weft yarns, and have a moisture regain of greater than 3%.
The flexible fabric of the invention, wherein the crosswise textured yarns are warp yarns, account for at most 50% of the warp yarns, and have a moisture regain of greater than 3%.

Claims (8)

1. A flexible fabric comprising three yarns: (1) a lengthwise textured yarn; (2) a crosswise textured yarn; (3) a base structure yarn, wherein the longitudinal textured yarn, after moisture absorption, has a reduced transverse diameter and an extended longitudinal length; the transverse diameter of the transverse textured yarn becomes thicker obviously after moisture absorption, and the longitudinal length of the transverse textured yarn becomes shorter or unchanged; the geometric properties of the fibers of the base structure yarns do not change significantly after moisture absorption, thereby also causing unevenness of the fabric surface, wherein the lengthwise textured yarns are warp yarns and the crosswise textured yarns are weft yarns, or the lengthwise textured yarns are weft yarns and the crosswise textured yarns are warp yarns.
2. The flexible fabric of claim 1, wherein the machine direction textured yarn is warp yarn and comprises at least 5% of the warp yarn and has a machine direction elongation after moisture absorption of greater than 2%.
3. The flexible fabric of claim 1, wherein the lengthwise textured yarns are weft yarns that comprise at least 5% of the weft yarns and have a machine direction elongation after moisture absorption of greater than 2%.
4. The flexible fabric of claim 1, wherein the crosswise yams are shutes and comprise 50% of the shutes, and the moisture regain is greater than 3%.
5. The flexible fabric of claim 1, wherein the crosswise textured yarns are warp yarns and comprise up to 50% of the warp yarns, and have a moisture regain of greater than 3%.
6. A flexible fabric according to claim 1 which is a single or double face fabric woven.
7. A method for manufacturing a flexible fabric capable of adjusting the air permeability of the fabric according to the accumulated sweat on the surface of the skin of a wearer under different exercise states, which comprises the following steps:
a. firstly, longitudinal textured yarns are selected, the transverse diameter of the longitudinal textured yarns becomes thin after moisture absorption, the longitudinal length of the longitudinal textured yarns is elongated, the longitudinal textured yarns are placed in GB1 or other comb joints to adopt a certain yarn laying structure, and a full-through method or any empty-through method is adopted in a yarn threading method; the longitudinal elongation deformation capability is more than 2 percent; the adopted amount of the yarn is more than 50% and less than or equal to 100%;
b. the transverse diameter of the transverse textured yarn becomes thicker obviously after moisture absorption, and the longitudinal length of the transverse textured yarn becomes shorter or unchanged; the transverse textured yarn is placed in GB2 or other comb joints and adopts a certain yarn laying structure, and the yarn threading method adopts a full threading method or any empty threading method; selecting the transverse textured yarns according to the official moisture regain of yarn materials, wherein the official moisture regain is more than 3% or more than 7%;
c. the geometric characteristics of the fibers of the base structure yarn are not obviously changed after the base structure yarn absorbs moisture, so that the surface of the fabric is uneven; the basic structure yarn is placed in GB3 or other comb joints and adopts a certain yarn laying structure, and the yarn threading method adopts a full threading method or any empty threading method; after moisture absorption, the transverse expansion deformation is less than 1 percent, and the official moisture regain is less than 13 percent.
8. The method of claim 7, wherein the flexible fabric is a single-sided fabric or a double-sided fabric.
CN201710686062.6A 2017-08-11 2017-08-11 Textile fabric design with environment moisture response capability and preparation method thereof Active CN109385728B (en)

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