CN109310619A - Anhydrous composition with not viscous sense - Google Patents

Anhydrous composition with not viscous sense Download PDF

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Publication number
CN109310619A
CN109310619A CN201680080174.0A CN201680080174A CN109310619A CN 109310619 A CN109310619 A CN 109310619A CN 201680080174 A CN201680080174 A CN 201680080174A CN 109310619 A CN109310619 A CN 109310619A
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CN
China
Prior art keywords
weight
composition
oil
ester
acid
Prior art date
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Application number
CN201680080174.0A
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
谈静娴
徐振
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Publication of CN109310619A publication Critical patent/CN109310619A/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31Hydrocarbons
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31Anhydrous
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43Pigments; Dyes

Abstract

Anhydrous composition is provided, it includes: at least one oil selected from the ester containing at least 18 carbon atoms of a.;B. at least one pasty compound;C. the ester of at least one dextrin and fatty acid;With at least one non-emulsified organopolysiloxane elastomers of d..

Description

Anhydrous composition with not viscous sense
Technical field
The present invention relates generally to the anhydrous compositions being applied in target substrate.The present invention relates more specifically to be applied to mesh Anhydrous composition with improved not viscous sense when marking on substrate, especially keratin material.
Background of invention
For meet skin and lip conditioning and/or makeup needs, nursing and/or change of the production for skin and/or lip The composition of adornment.Particularly, consumer seeks that there is good lip to improve, such as moisturizing, gloss;Good adornment effect, such as in mouth Uniform durable color effect on lip, and be easy to use, the lip of smearing, good result (pay-off) is easy such as on lip Nursing and cosmetic product.
It has made efforts to realize this demand.Be known as lip nursing and/or makeup prepare product, as lip gloss, lip oil or Other types of liquid anhydrous composition.For example, as it is known that oil is applied in combination with dextrin ester, as Parleam and other oil are matched Lip gloss processed.
Although such product is liked due to its excellent conditioning effect to lip by consumer, but still sends out It is existing unsatisfactory.Consumer has found that its is tacky and therefore uncomfortable on lip after application.
The inventors discovered that can solve the problem, but the lip gloss too liquid with light viscosity oil by using light viscosity oil Shape, therefore its use quality for influencing product.When being applied on lip, the composition layer of smearing is too thick, so that the composition It reveals or is exuded to outside lip region.
In addition, the product may be unstable due to low viscosity when there are colorant.
Therefore, it is necessary to prepare the combination when being applied on keratin material, especially lip with improved not viscous sense Object.
Meanwhile it needing to prepare the such composition as described above with enough viscosity.
Enough viscosity as disclosed above can be improved using quality, such as effect and smearing.
Further, it is necessary to prepare with property mentioned above and through when stable composition.Particularly, when there are pigment When, need to prepare through when stable composition as disclosed above.
Summary of the invention
The inventors discovered that by preparing comprising at least one specific ester oil, at least one pasty compound, at least one dextrin With the ester of fatty acid and the composition of at least one non-emulsified organopolysiloxane elastomers, above-listed problem can solve.
Specifically, the present invention relates to a kind of anhydrous composition, it includes:
A) at least one oil selected from the ester containing at least 18 carbon atoms of;
B) at least one pasty compound;
C) ester of at least one dextrin and fatty acid;With
D) at least one non-emulsified organopolysiloxane elastomers of.
For the purpose of the present invention, term " anhydrous composition " refers to containing the total weight relative to the composition less than 2 weights Measure %, the preferably less than composition of the water of 0.5 weight %.If appropriate, water a small amount of in this way may be by the water containing residual quantity The ingredient of the composition provides, and unintentionally provides.
Preferably, " keratin material " according to the present invention is skin and lip." skin " means all body skins, packet Include scalp.The keratin material is it is also preferable that lip.
It can be measured by any method known to those skilled in the art in particular according to following conventional methods of the invention The viscosity of composition.Therefore, it is possible to use being furnished with 180 viscosimeter of Rheomat of the 200 rpm rotor rotated at 25 DEG C It measures.Those skilled in the art can be selected from rotor M1, M2, M3 and M4 for measuring viscosity based on their common sense Rotor, the measurement can be implemented.
Therefore using being furnished with the ProRheo R180 viscosity of the 200 rpm rotor M3 rotated from Prorheo company Meter measures the viscosity of composition according to the present invention at 25 DEG C.
Preferably, using the above method, the viscosity of composition of the invention is 35 UD to 80 UD(deviation metrics (Deviation Units)).
According to the application, and " through when stablize " refer to that the composition store 2 months at 25 to 45 DEG C after do not show outside Sight, the variation of color, smell or viscosity.
Detailed description of the invention
A) one or more oil of the ester containing at least 18 carbon atoms
Composition of the invention includes at least one oil selected from the ester containing at least 18 carbon atoms.
" oil " refer to be under room temperature (25 DEG C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa or 760 mmHg) liquid oil.
Ester oil of the invention can be comprising the monoesters of at least 18 carbon atoms, diester, three esters, four esters, polyester or it is mixed Close object.
Ester oil for use in the present invention can for example selected from:
It include at least 18 carbon atoms, the monoesters particularly containing 18 to 40 carbon atoms, the especially monoesters of formula (I)
R1COOR2 (I)
Wherein:
R1Saturation or unsaturation, linear chain or branched chain or aromatic fatty acids residue comprising 4 to 40 carbon atoms are represented,
R2The chain based on hydrocarbon containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms is represented, branch is especially,
Condition is group R1And R2Carbon atom summation be greater than or equal to 18.
Such monoesters, such as cetearyl tristearin alcohol ester (Purcellin oil), isononyl isononanoate, benzene can be mentioned Formic acid C12To C15Arrcostab, palmitinic acid 2- ethylhexyl, Elefac I 205, stearic acid 2- octyldodecyl Ester, erucic acid 2- octyldodecyl, isostearyl isostearate ester, benzoic acid C12-C15Arrcostab such as benzoic acid 2- octyl ten It is dialkyl ester, the caprylate of alcohol or polyalcohol, decylate or ricinoleate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, hard Resin acid butyl ester, lauric acid hexyl ester, palmitinic acid 2- ethylhexyl, lauric acid 2- hexyl last of the ten Heavenly stems ester, palmitinic acid 2- octyl last of the ten Heavenly stems ester or Pork and beans Cool acid 2- octyldodecyl.
Preferably, in formula (I) R1COOR2(I) in,
R1The linear chain or branched chain fatty acid residue comprising 4 to 40 carbon atoms is represented,
R2The chain based on hydrocarbon containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms is represented, branch is especially,
R1And R2So that group R1And R2Carbon atom summation be greater than or equal to 18.
Even more particularly, which includes 18 to 40 carbon atoms in total.
Comprising at least 18 carbon atoms in total, special includes 18 to 60 carbon atoms, particularly 18 to 50 carbon atoms Diester.
The diester of dicarboxylic acids and monohydric alcohol especially can be used, preferably such as two isooctadecanol ester (such as Lubrizol of malic acid What company sold can be with trade name SchercemolThe product that DISM ester obtains) or monocarboxylic diol diesters, such as two heptan Sour neopentyl glycol ester, two sad propylene glycol esters, two isononanoic acid binaryglycol esters or -2 diisopstearate of polyglycereol are (especially such as The compound that Akzo company is sold with trade name Dermol DGDIS);
Total carbon number at least 18 carbon atoms, particularly with the hydroxylating monoesters and diester of 18 to 70 carbon atoms.
It is hard that such as polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, lactic acid isooctadecanol ester, octyl hydroxystearate, hydroxyl can be mentioned Resin acid octyldodecyl or tristerin;
Containing at least 18 carbon atoms in total, at least 35 carbon atoms are preferably comprised, particularly include 35 to 70 carbon atoms Three esters.
Such three ester can be mentioned, such as three esters of tricarboxylic acids, such as three isooctadecanol ester of citric acid or inclined benzene front three Sour three last of the ten Heavenly stems esters or three ester of monocarboxylic glycol, such as three isostearate of polyglycereol -2;
Contain at least 18 carbon atoms, preferably comprises at least 35 carbon atoms, the four of further preferably 35 to 70 carbon atoms Ester.
Such four ester be for example, four ester of monocarboxylic pentaerythrite or polyglycereol, such as four pelargonate of pentaerythrite, Pentaerythritol tetraoctyl stearate, four isononoate of pentaerythrite, glycerol three (2- decyl) four decylates, polyglycereol -2 four are different hard Resin acid ester or pentaerythrite four (2- decyl) four decylates;
What the condensation by unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and glycol comprising at least 18 carbon atoms obtained Polyester, as described in patent application FR 0 853 634 those, especially such as dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol;
Biosynthis can be especially mentioned in this respect to run after fame (INCI: two, polymer of sale with Viscoplast 14436H Linoleic acid/butanediol copolymer) or polyalcohol and dimer diacid and its ester copolymer, such as Hailucent ISDA;
The ester and polyester of dimer diol and monocarboxylic acid or dicarboxylic acids, it includes at least 18 carbon atoms, such as glycol dimerization The ester and dimer diol of object and fatty acid and the ester of dicarboxylic acids dimer, especially can be by being especially derived from especially C8To C34, Especially C12To C22, especially C16To C20, more particularly C18Unsaturated fatty acid dimerization dicarboxylic acids dimer obtain, such as The ester of two sub- oily diacid and two sub- oily dimer diols, such as Nippon Fine Chemical company is with trade name Lusplan DD-DA5®And DD-DA7®Those of sell;
It is esterified the polyester generated by aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by aliphatic dicarboxylic acid by least one hydroxy carboxylic acid's triglycerides, It is optionally unsaturated, includes at least 18 carbon atoms.For example, Zenitech is run after fame the succinic acid of sale and different with Zenigloss Stearic acid castor oil;
Or their mixture.
Ester oil of the invention is preferably selected from total comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, especially includes 18 to 60 carbon atoms, more The diester of special 18 to 50 carbon atoms.
Two isooctadecanol ester of malic acid is more preferably used in the present invention.
One or more ester oils are preferably with 0.5 weight % of the total weight relative to the composition to 45 weight %, preferably 5 weights % is measured to 40 weight %, the amount of more preferable 10 weight % to 35 weight % are present in composition of the invention.
B) one or more pasty compounds
Composition of the invention includes at least one pasty compound.
Term " pasty compound " be understood to mean within the meaning of the present invention with reversible solid-liquid state change, Aeolotropic crystal arrangement is shown in solid-state and in 23 DEG C of the at a temperature of lipophilic fatty comprising liquid portion and solid portion Compound.
In other words, the melting point onset of the paste fat matter can be less than 23 DEG C.The paste chemical combination measured at 23 DEG C The liquid fraction of object can be 9 to 97 weight % of the pasty compound.At 23 DEG C, this liquid fraction is preferably 15 to 85 Weight %, more preferable 40 to 85 weight %.
Within the meaning of the present invention, fusing point corresponds to the pass the heat analysis as described in standard ISO 11357-3:1999 (DSC) temperature for the most endothermic peak observed.Can be used differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) (DSC), such as TA Instruments with The fusing point of the calorimeter measurement pasty compound of " MDSC 2920 " sale of running after fame.
Process of measurement is as follows:
5 milligrams of pasty compound samples being placed in crucible are imposed with 10 DEG C/min of rates of heat addition from -20 DEG C to 100 DEG C It heats up for the first time, is then cooled to -20 DEG C from 100 DEG C with 10 DEG C/min of cooling rate, finally impose and heated with 5 DEG C/min Second heating of the rate from -20 DEG C to 100 DEG C.In second of temperature-rise period, as temperature function measurement sky crucible with The variation of the difference for the power that crucible comprising pasty compound sample absorbs.The fusing point of the pasty compound is and indicates to absorb function The corresponding temperature value of the summit for the curve that rate difference varies with temperature.
Liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 DEG C is equal to the fusion enthalpy consumed at 23 DEG C and is somebody's turn to do The ratio of the fusion enthalpy of paste fat matter.
The fusion enthalpy of the paste fat matter is the enthalpy that the substance is consumed from solid state into liquid state.Paste fat matter is at it All-mass is " solid-state " when being solid crystallization way.Pasty compound is " liquid " when its all-mass is liquid form.
The fusion enthalpy of the pasty compound be equal to use differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) (DSC), as TA Instruments with MDSC 2920 run after fame sale calorimeter according to standard ISO 11357-3:1999 with 5 or 10 DEG C/min heating obtain heat The area under a curve of spectrogram.
The fusion enthalpy of the pasty compound is to make the pasty compound from the amount of energy needed for solid state into liquid state.Its with J/g is indicated.
The fusion enthalpy consumed at 23 DEG C is that the sample is to become that it shows at 23 DEG C from solid-state by liquid portion The amount of energy absorbed with state that solid portion is constituted.
The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 DEG C is preferably 30 to 100 weight % of the pasty compound, Preferably 50 to 100 weight % of the pasty compound, more preferably 60 to 100 weight % of the pasty compound.When at 32 DEG C Under the liquid fraction of the pasty compound that measures when being equal to 100%, the outlet temperature of the fusion range of the pasty compound is less than Or it is equal to 32 DEG C.
The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 DEG C is equal to the fusion enthalpy and the paste consumed at 32 DEG C The ratio of the fusion enthalpy of compound.The fusing consumed at 32 DEG C is calculated in a manner of identical with the fusion enthalpy consumed at 23 DEG C Enthalpy.
The pasty compound is advantageously selected from alone or combined following compounds:
Lanolin and its derivative;
The entitled vaseline of vaseline, especially INCI (petrolatum) and by Calumet Specialty company with Ultima White PET USP runs after fame the product of sale,
Polyol ethers, the ether and its mixture, season penta of ether, fatty alcohol and sugar selected from pentaerythrite and polyalkylene glycol Four it is pure and mild include 5 ethylene oxy units (5 OE) polyethylene glycol ether (CTFA: PEG-5 pentaerythrite ether), comprising 5 The polypropylene glycol pentaerythrite ether (CTFA: PEG-5 pentaerythrite ether) and its mixture of propylidene oxygen (5 OP) unit, more especially It is Vevy company with Lanolide run after fame sale PEG-5 pentaerythrite ether, PPG-5 pentaerythrite ether and soybean oil mixing Object, in the mixture, the weight ratio of ingredient are 46/46/8:46% PEG-5 pentaerythrite ether, 46% PPG-5 pentaerythrite ether With 8% soybean oil;
Polymerization or non-polymeric silicone compounds,
Polymerization or non-polymeric fluorochemical,
Polyvinyl, especially:
Olefin homo and copolymer,
Hydrogenated diene homopolymer and copolymer,
Preferably comprise C8-C30The linear or branched oligomers, homopolymer and copolymer of (methyl) alkyl acrylate of alkyl,
Contain C8-C30Oligomer, homopolymer and the copolymer of the vinyl esters of alkyl, such as contain C8-C30The vinyl of alkyl Ester homopolymer, if polyvinyl laurate (especially being run after fame sale by Chimex company with Mexomer PP) and Alzo are with trade (brand) name The propionic acid peanut alcohol ester that Waxenol 801 is sold;
Contain C8-C30Oligomer, homopolymer and the copolymer of the vinyl ethers of alkyl;
By one or more C2-C100, preferably C2-C50The fat-soluble polyethers that polyethersization between glycol generates.
Particularly preferred fat-soluble polyethers is ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide and C6-C30The copolymer of long-chain alkylene oxide, More preferably making the weight ratio of the copolymer ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide and alkylene oxide is 5:95 to 70:30.This kind of In, mention long-chain alkylene oxide especially with the copolymer of the average molecular weight with 1000 to 10 000 of block arrangement, such as gather Ethylene oxide/poly- dodecanediol block copolymer, the dodecanediol sold such as Akzo Nobel with trade (brand) name Elfacos ST9 The ether of (22 moles) and polyethylene glycol (45 OE).
Ester is especially selected from:
The condensation product of the ester of glycerin oligomer, especially double glyceride, especially adipic acid and glycerol, wherein the one of the glycerol A little hydroxyls are reacted with the fatty acid such as mixture of stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12- hydroxy stearic acid, excellent Double more acyl group adipate ester -2 of-two glycerol that choosing such as Cremer Oleo company is sold with trade (brand) name Softisan 649,
Contain C8-C30The vinyl ester homopolymer of alkyl, as polyvinyl laurate (especially by Chimex company with Mexomer PP runs after fame sale) and the propionic acid peanut alcohol ester sold with trade (brand) name Waxenol 801 of Alzo,
Phytosterin ester,
Fatty acid triglycercide and its derivative, such as fatty acid, especially C10-C18And the partly or completely fat of perhydrogenating Acid triglycerides, as Sasol company with Softisan 100 run after fame sale those of,
Pentaerythritol ester,
By linear chain or branched chain C4-C50Dicarboxylic acids or polycarboxylic acid and C2-C50The non-friendship that polycondensation between glycol or polyalcohol generates Join polyester,
By the aliphatic (acid) ester for the ester that aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acids ester is generated by aliphatic carboxylic acid esterification.
Preferably, which includes 4 to 30, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms.It is preferably selected from caproic acid, enanthic acid, pungent Acid, 2 ethyl hexanoic acid, n-nonanoic acid, capric acid, hendecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecane Acid, hexyldecanoic acid, Heptadecanoic acide, octadecanoid acid, isostearic acid, nonadecylic acid, arachic acid, different arachidic acid, octyldodecyl Acid, heneicosanoic acid and behenic acid and its mixture.The aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branch.The aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acids ester has Sharply derived from containing 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 34 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 28 carbon atoms and 1 to 20 Hydroxyl, preferably 1 to 10 hydroxyl, the hydroxylation of aliphatic carboxylic acid of preferably 1 to 6 hydroxyl.The aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acids ester is selected from:
The partial ester or full ester of the monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acid of zero saturated straight chain;
The partial ester or full ester of zero unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acid;
The partial ester or full ester of the zero monohydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acid of saturation;
The partial ester or full ester of the zero polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acid of saturation;
Zero C reacted with monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid2To C16The partial ester of aliphatic polyol Or full ester,
Zero and their mixture.
The ester of dimer diol and diacid dimer, if appropriate, one or more free alcohols or sour official at them It can be esterified in group with acid or alcohol groups, especially dimerization dilinoleic acid ester;Such ester especially can be selected from that there is following INCI to order The ester of name: the sub- oleyl alcohol dimerization dilinoleic acid ester (Plandool G) of double-behenyl base/iso stearyl/phytosterol dimerization two, plant Sterol/iso stearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl base dimerization dilinoleic acid ester (Plandool H or Plandool S) and its Mixture,
Mango grease, if AarhusKarlshamn company is run after fame the product of sale with Lipex 203,
Oil with hydrogenated soybean, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, hydrogenated vegetable oil mixture, such as hydrogenated soybean, coconut, palm fibre The mixture of palmitic acid and vegetable seed vegetable oil, such as Aarhuskarlshamn company is with Akogel®Run after fame the mixture (INCI of sale Name: hydrogenated vegetable oil),
The product of the entitled Butyrospermum parkii Butter of shea butter rouge, especially INCI, such as Aarhuskarlshamn company is with Sheasoft®It runs after fame the product of sale,
With their mixture.
The pasty compound is preferably polymer, is based especially on the polymer of hydrocarbon.
In the pasty compound, vaseline, the sub- oil of double-behenyl base/iso stearyl/phytosterol dimerization two are preferably selected Base, the more acyl group adipate esters -2 of double-two glycerol, rilanit special dimerization dilinoleic acid ester, such as Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo The Risocast DA-L and rilanit special isostearate of sale, such as the Salacos HCIS that Nisshin Oil is sold (V-L), or mixtures thereof mango grease, shea butter rouge.
The product that the entitled vaseline of vaseline, especially INCI can more preferably be mentioned, such as Calumet Specialty company With Ultima White PET USP run after fame sale those of.
Advantageously, one or more pasty compounds are with the 5 weight % to 40 weight % of the total weight relative to the composition, It is preferred that the amount of 10 weight % to 30 weight % are present in composition of the invention.
C) one or more dextrin esters
According to the present invention, the composition includes at least one dextrin ester, preferably dextrin and saturation or unsaturated, linear chain or branched chain rouge Fat acid, preferably C12To C24The ester of fatty acid.
The example for the fatty acid that can be mentioned is lauric acid, myristic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitinic acid, palmitoleic acid, 16 Carbon enoic acid (sapienic acid), stearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, vaccenic acid, linoleic acid, linoelaidic Acid, arachidic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid, docosahexaenoic acid or lignoceric acid.
The fatty acid is preferably saturation.
The dextrin ester is preferably dextrin and saturation C14-C18The ester of fatty acid.
The dextrin ester of dextrin myristinate, such as CHIBA FLOUR MILLING company can be mentioned with Rheopearl MKL2®Run after fame it is commercialized those, dextrin palmitate, if CHIBA FLOUR MILLING company is with Rheopearl KL2® Run after fame it is commercialized those, or mixtures thereof.
More preferably use dextrin myristinate.
Composition according to the present invention preferably comprises the 0.1 weight % of total weight to 10 weight % relative to the composition, It is preferred that dextrin ester content of the 1 weight % to 5 weight %.
D) one or more non-emulsified organopolysiloxane elastomers
Composition of the invention includes at least one non-emulsified organopolysiloxane elastomers.
Non-emulsified organopolysiloxane elastomers of the invention are free from hydrophilic chain, such as polyoxyalkylene or multiglycerolifying unit Organopolysiloxane elastomers.
Term " organopolysiloxane elastomers " refers to the soft of the consistency with viscoplasticity, especially sponge or flexible ball The deformable organopolysiloxane of property.Its elasticity modulus makes this material deformation resistant and has limited draftability and shrinkage. This material can restore its original-shape after the stretch.
This organopolysiloxane is preferably crosslinking.This elastomer is preferably non-annularity.
It therefore, can be by the diorganopolysiloxanecompositions of the hydrogen being bonded on silicon containing at least one and containing being bonded on silicon Ethylenically unsaturated group crosslinking addition reaction of the diorganopolysiloxanecompositions especially in the presence of platinum catalyst;Or by containing It the diorganopolysiloxanecompositions of hydroxyl end groups and is bonded to containing at least one outstanding between the diorganopolysiloxanecompositions of the hydrogen on silicon Its dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction in the presence of organotin;Or pass through diorganopolysiloxanecompositions and hydrolyzable containing hydroxyl end groups The crosslinking condensation of organopolysilane reacts;Or the heat by organopolysiloxane especially in the presence of organic peroxide catalyst Crosslinking;Or by the way that by high-energy radiation, as the organopolysiloxane of gamma-rays, ultraviolet light or electron beam is crosslinked acquisition, this is non-emulsified Organopolysiloxane elastomers.
It is preferred that the diorganopolysiloxanecompositions and (B) by (A) hydrogen being respectively bonded on silicon containing at least two contain At least two are bonded to the diorganopolysiloxanecompositions of the ethylenically unsaturated group on silicon especially in the presence of (C) platinum catalyst Crosslinking addition reaction obtains the organopolysiloxane elastomers.
Especially by the dimethyl polysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end group and trimethyl can be contained Reaction of the methylhydrogenpolysi,oxane of siloxy end group in the presence of platinum catalyst obtains the organopolysiloxane elastomers.
Compound (A) is the basic compound for being used to form organopolysiloxane elastomers, and by compound (A) and is changed The addition reaction of object (B) in the presence of catalyst (C) is closed to be crosslinked.
Compound (A) is bonded to the organic of the hydrogen atom on different silicon atoms especially in each molecule containing at least two Polysiloxanes.
Compound (A) can have any molecular structure, especially straight or branched structure or cyclic structure.
Compound (A) can have the viscosity at 25 DEG C of 1 to 50 000 centistoke, with especially with compound (B) it is miscible.
The organic group being bonded on the silicon atom of compound (A) can be alkyl, as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, Octyl;Substituted alkyl, such as 2- phenylethyl, 2- phenyl propyl or 3,3,3- trifluoro propyls;Aryl, such as phenyl, tolyl, two Tolyl;Substituted aryl, such as phenylethyl;Group with substituted monovalence based on hydrocarbon, such as epoxy group, carboxylate or mercapto Base.
Compound (A) therefore can be selected from the methylhydrogenpolysi,oxane containing trimethyl siloxy end-groups, contain front three The dimethyl siloxane-methyl hydrogen siloxane copolymer and dimethyl siloxane-methyl hydrogen siloxane of base siloxy end group Cyclocopolymer.
Compound (B) is advantageously containing at least two low-carbon alkenyls (such as C2-C4) diorganopolysiloxanecompositions;This is low Carbene base can be selected from vinyl, allyl and acrylic.These low-carbon alkenyls can be located at any of the organopolysiloxane molecules Position, but it is preferably placed at the end of the organopolysiloxane molecules.Organopolysiloxane (B) can have branch, straight chain, ring-type or Network structure, but linear chain structure is preferred.Compound (B) can have the viscosity from liquid to colloidal state.Compound (B) is preferred to be had Have to the viscosity of 100 centistokes few at 25 DEG C.
In addition to above-mentioned alkenyl, the other organic groups on silicon atom being bonded in compound (B) can be alkyl, such as first Base, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl;Substituted alkyl, such as 2- phenylethyl, 2- phenyl propyl or 3,3,3- trifluoro propyls;Virtue Base, such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl;Substituted aryl, such as phenylethyl;Group with substituted monovalence based on hydrocarbon, such as Epoxy group, carboxylate or sulfydryl.
Organopolysiloxane (B) can be selected from methylvinyl-polysiloxane, methyl vinyl silicone-dimethyl siloxane Copolymer, contains dimethyl ethenyl monosilane at the dimethyl polysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end group The dimethyl siloxane-methyl phenylsiloxane copolymer of oxygroup end group contains dimethylvinylsiloxy end group Dimethyl siloxane-diphenyl siloxane-methyl vinyl silicone copolymer, two containing trimethyl siloxy end-groups Methylsiloxane-methyl vinyl silicone copolymer, the dimethyl siloxane-methyl containing trimethyl siloxy end-groups Phenyl siloxane-methyl vinyl silicone copolymer, the methyl (3,3,3- containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end group Trifluoro propyl) polysiloxanes and the dimethyl siloxane-methyl (3,3,3- tri- containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end group Fluoropropyl) silicone copolymers.
Especially by the dimethyl polysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end group and trimethyl can be contained Reaction of the methylhydrogenpolysi,oxane of siloxy end group in the presence of platinum catalyst obtains the organopolysiloxane elastomers.
Advantageously, per molecule is bonded on silicon atom in the per molecule ethylenic group number and compound (A) in compound (B) The summation of number of hydrogen atoms be at least 5.
Compound (A) is advantageously so that the total amount and compound of the hydrogen atom being bonded on silicon atom in compound (A) (B) amount addition of the molecular proportion in 1.5/1 to 20/1 range between the total amount of all ethylenically unsaturated groups.
Compound (C) is the catalyst and especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-alkene complex, chlorine for the cross-linking reaction Platinic acid-alkenyl siloxane compound, chloroplatinic acid-diketone compound, platinum black and the platinum on carrier.
Catalyst (C) is preferably with 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight of total amount of every 1000 parts by weight compound (A) and (B), preferably The amount addition based on pure platinum of 1 to 100 parts by weight.
The non-emulsified organopolysiloxane elastomers can be spherical or nonspherical particle form.The organopolysiloxane Elastomer is preferably selected from Dimethicone Crosspolymer, vinyl dimethicone cross polymer, poly- diformazan Radical siloxane/vinyl dimethicone cross polymer and its mixture.
The available non-emulsified elastomer of spherical shape includes such as Dow Corning company with DC 9040, DC 9041, DC 9509, DC 9505 run after fame sale those of.
Can also mention Shin-Etsu company with KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 run after fame sale those of;The Gransil of Gransil RPS company from Grant Industries SR 5CYC Gel, 10 Gel and Gransil SR DC556 Gel of Gransil SR DMF;From General Electric 1229-02-167,1229-02-168 and SFE 839 of company.
Advantageous fat of the invention mutually may include that at least one of the delivering (convey) at least one oil is organic poly- Silicone elastomer.In this respect, the organopolysiloxane elastomers by the elastomer mixed at least one oil preferably to be had The gel form delivering that machine polysiloxanes is formed.In these gels, organopolysiloxane elastomers can be spherical or aspheric The form of shape particle.
According to a specific embodiment, elastomer can be used as to be used with the mixture of cyclic silicone oils.One for can mentioning Example is the mixing of six siloxanes of cross-lined organic polyorganosiloxane/cyclopentasiloxane mixture or cross-lined organic polyorganosiloxane/ring Object, such as Gransil RPS D5 or Gransil RPS D6 or the Dow Corning from Grant Industries company The EL-9240 silicone elastomer blend of company.
In another embodiment, the oil to be mixed to form gel with organopolysiloxane elastomers is at 25 DEG C Molecular weight is 1 to 350cst, especially 2 to 100cst, preferably 2 to 10cst linear silicone oils (dimethyl siloxane).It can root According to ASTM D-445 criterion silicon oil viscosity.
As the example for the organopolysiloxane elastomers of the invention mixed with linear silicone oils, can mention following With reference to:
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone cross-linked polymer (and) dimethyl silicone polymer, such as Shin The commodity KSG-6 and KSG-16 that Etsu is sold;
Dimethyl silicone polymer (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, the commodity sold such as Dow Corning DC9041;
Dimethyl silicone polymer (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as Dow from Dow Corning company Corning EL-9240 silicone elastomer blend;With their mixture;
Or their mixture.
In a preferred embodiment, which mutually includes the non-emulsified organopolysiloxane of at least one gel form Elastomer, wherein Dimethicone Crosspolymer with have 1 to 100cst at 25 DEG C, especially at 25 DEG C 1 to The linear silicone oils of the viscosity of 10cst mix, the entitled dimethyl silicone polymer of especially INCI (and) dimethyl silicone polymer crosslinking That of polymer.
Advantageously, composition according to the present invention is with the 0.1 weight % to 5 weight % of the total weight relative to the composition, It is preferred that the solid content of 0.2 weight % to 3 weight % includes at least one organopolysiloxane elastomers, alone or as mixing Object.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a kind of nursing and/or change for keratin material The anhydrous composition of adornment, it includes:
A) at least one oil selected from the diester comprising 18 to 50 carbon atoms of 10 weight % of to 35 weight %;
B) at least one pasty compound of 10 weight % of to 30 weight %;
C) at least one dextrin of 1 weight % of to 5 weight % and saturation or unsaturated, linear chain or branched chain C12To C24Fatty acid Ester;With
D) the non-emulsified organopolysiloxane elastomers of at least one of 0.2 weight % of to 3 weight % are selected from and have at 25 DEG C Lower 1 to 100cst, the dimethyl silicone polymer crosslinking of the linear silicone oils mixing of 1 to 10cst viscosity is poly- especially at 25 DEG C Close object.
E) one or more additional oils
According to a preferred embodiment, composition of the invention further includes at least one oil, is different from as public above Open it is oily a).
Advantageously, when it is present, the oil is with the 1 weight % to 60 weight %, preferably 5 weights of the total weight relative to the composition The amount of amount % to 50 weight % are present in composition of the invention.
One or more oil can be selected from or mixtures thereof volatile oil, fixed oil.
Term " fixed oil " refers to the oil stayed on skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.More specifically Ground, fixed oil have strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm2The evaporation rate of/min.
In order to measure this evaporation rate, the mixture of 15 grams of oil or oil to be tested is placed in 7 centimetres of diameter of crystallization In ware, which is placed to temperature is adjusted at 25 DEG C and humidity regulation is big at about 0.3 cubic metre of 50% relative humidity On balance in room.Allow liquid freely to evaporate, do not stir, while by being vertically arranged in containing the described oily or described mixture Fan (Papst-Motoren, 8550 N of label, with 2700 rpm rotation) above crystallising dish provides ventilation, blade direction knot Brilliant ware, 20 centimetres away from crystallising dish bottom.Periodic measurement stays in the quality of the oil in crystallising dish.Evaporation rate is with per unit area (square centimeter) and the milligram number of the oil of (minute) evaporation indicates per unit time.
Term " volatile oil " refers to can steam when with skin or lip contact in less than 1 hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure Any non-aqueous medium of hair.Volatile oil is the cosmetics volatile oil for being at room temperature liquid.More specifically, volatile oil has 0.01 to 200 mg/cm2The evaporation rate of/min, including boundary.
The oil can be or mixtures thereof silicone oil, fluorocarbon oil, oil based on hydrocarbon.
For the purpose of the present invention, term " silicone oil " refers to comprising at least one silicon atom, especially at least a Si-O group Oil.
Term " fluorocarbon oil " refers to the oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
Term " oil based on hydrocarbon " refers to the oil for mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atom.
The oil can include optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and/or phosphorus atoms, such as in the form of hydroxyl or acid groups.
The oil can be selected from or mixtures thereof polar oil, non-polar oil.
For the purpose of the present invention, term " polar oil " refers to that its solubility parameter δ a at 25 DEG C is not 0 (J/cm3)1/2 Oil.
For the purpose of the present invention, term " non-polar oil " refers to that its solubility parameter δ a at 25 DEG C is equal to 0 (J/cm3)1/2 Oil.
In the article of C.M. Hansen: " The three dimensional solubility parameters ", J. the solubility parameter in Hansen three-dimensional solubility space is described in Paint Technol. 39,105 (1967) Definition and calculating.
According to this space Hansen:
The London dispersion force that-δ D characterization is formed derived from the dipole induced during molecular collision;
- δ p is characterized between Debye interaction force and induced dipole and permanent dipole between permanent dipole Keesom interaction force;
- δ h characterizes specific interaction force (such as hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/receptor);And
- δ a passes through equation: δ a=(δ p2+δ h2)½Measurement.
Parameter δ p, δ h, δ D and δ a are with (J/cm3)½It indicates.
Volatile oil for use in the present invention is volatile base for example containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms in the oil of hydrocarbon, especially Branch C8-C16Alkane (also referred to as isoparaffin), such as Permethyl 99A (also referred to as 2,2,4,4,6- five methylheptanes), isodecyl Alkane, isohexadecane and for example, with trade name Isopar®Or Permethyl®The oil of sale;Volatile silicone oils, such as volatility line Property or cyclic silicone oils, especially have≤8 centistokes (8 × 10-6 m2/ s) viscosity, and especially contain 2 to 10 silicon atoms, Especially those of 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicone optionally include alkyl or alkoxy containing 1 to 10 carbon atom.As Volatile silicone oils for use in the present invention can especially mention dimethyl silicone polymer, prestox ring four that viscosity is 5 and 6 cSt Siloxanes, decamethylcyclopentaandoxane, ten diformazan basic rings, six siloxanes, seven methylhexyl trisiloxanes, seven Methyl Octyls, three silicon Oxygen alkane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane and ten dimethyl, five siloxanes and its mixing Object;Also volatile fluoro oils can be used, such as Nonafluoromethoxybutcompositions or trifluoromethyl-cyclopentane and its mixture.
Also the mixture of oil mentioned above can be used.
Composition of the invention can further include at least one fixed oil.
Advantageously, which is polarity and/or the nonpolar non-volatile oil based on hydrocarbon.
The non-volatile polar oil based on hydrocarbon can be selected from following oil and its mixture:
- C10-C26Alcohol, preferred monohydric alcohol;
More particularly, the C10-C26Alcohol is saturation or unsaturated, branch or non-branched, and includes 10 to 26 carbon atoms.
The C10-C26Alcohol is preferably fatty alcohol, the preferably branch when it includes at least 16 carbon atoms.
As the example of fatty alcohol that can be used according to the invention, can mention synthesis source or natural straight chain or Branched fatty alcohol, such as the alcohol derived from vegetable material (coconut, palm kernel, palm etc.) or animal material (tallow etc.).
Needless to say, other long-chain alcohols also can be used, such as ether alcohol or " Guerbet " alcohol.
Finally, certain more or less long-chain fractions (long fractions) of natural alcohol, example also can be used Such as lauric alcohol (C12To C16) or tallow alcohol (C16To C18) or glycol or cholesterine type compound.
It is preferable to use include 10 to 24 carbon atoms, the fatty alcohol of more preferable 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
As the particular instance of the fatty alcohol preferably used, laruyl alcohol, isooctadecanol, oleyl alcohol, 2- fourth can be especially mentioned Base octanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol, 2- hexyl decyl alcohol, different cetanol and octyldodecanol and its mixture.
An advantageous embodiment according to the present invention, which is selected from octyldodecanol, if BASF AG is with commodity Name Eutanol G®The product of sale.
- C2-C8Monocarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and C2-C8Optional hydroxylating monoesters, diester or three esters of alcohol
Particularly:
* C2-C8Carboxylic acid and C2-C8The optional hydroxylating monoesters of alcohol,
* C2-C8Dicarboxylic acids and C2-C8The optional hydroxylating diester of alcohol, as diisopropyl adipate, adipic acid 2- diethyl oneself Ester, dibutyl adipate, two isooctadecanol ester of adipic acid or succinic acid 2- ethylhexyl,
* C2-C8Tricarboxylic acids and C2-C8Three ester of optional hydroxylating of alcohol, such as citrate, such as trioctyl lemon acid, citric acid three Ethyl ester, tributyl 2-acetylcitrate or tributyl citrate,
- C2-C8Polyalcohol and one or more C2-C8The ester of carboxylic acid, such as the diol diesters of monoacid, such as two enanthic acid neopentyl glycols Three ester of glycol of ester or monoacid, such as glyceryl triacetate.
It is based onThe vegetable oil of hydrocarbon, such as fatty acid triglycercide (it is liquid at room temperature), in particular contain at least seven Carbon atom, the even more fatty acid particularly with 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as enanthic acid or Trivent OCG or SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS SEED OIL;It is special Saturation triglycerides can not be mentioned, as caprylic/capric triglyceride and its mixture, such as Cognis are with Myritol 318 The product that name is sold, or 70/30 DUB MCT7030 of Triglycerides C8C10 from Stearinerie Dubois, Triheptin, tricaprylin and C18-36Acid glycerol three ester, as St é arineries Dubois is with Dub TGI 24 Those of name sale and unsaturated triglyceride, such as castor oil, olive oil, extra large sandalwood oil or Ba Kasi oil;
- Vinyl pyrrolidone/1- hexadecene copolymer, such as ISP company is also referred to as Ganex with Antaron V-216( V216 it) runs after fame the product (g/mol of MW=7300) of sale;
- C12-C26Fatty acid, preferably C12-C22Fatty acid, preferred unsaturated, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid and its mixed Close object;
- Dialkyl carbonate, this 2 alkyl chains may be identical or different, if Cognis is with Cetiol CC®It runs after fame the carbon of sale Dioctyl phthalate;
- Or their mixture
Preferably, the polar oil according to the present invention based on hydrocarbon is selected from C10-C26Alcohol, based on the vegetable oil of hydrocarbon or its mixing Object.
It is highly preferred that the polar oil of the invention based on hydrocarbon is selected from C12-C22Alcohol, fatty acid triglycercide, in particular contain Or mixtures thereof the fatty acid of at least seven carbon atom,.
Even further preferably, the non-volatile polar oil based on hydrocarbon is pungent selected from laruyl alcohol, isooctadecanol, oleyl alcohol, 2- butyl Alcohol, 2- undecylpentadecanol, 2- hexyl decyl alcohol, different cetanol, octyldodecanol, enanthic acid or Trivent OCG or lotus Lotus bar oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, triheptin, tricaprylin and C18-36Acid glycerol three ester, unsaturated glycerol Three esters, such as or mixtures thereof castor oil, olive oil, extra large sandalwood oil, Ba Kasi oil.
According to a preferred embodiment, composition of the invention includes octyldodecanol, caprylic/capric triglyceride Or mixtures thereof as the non-volatile polar oil based on hydrocarbon.
Due to the non-volatile nonpolar oil based on hydrocarbon be it is nonpolar, the compound be free of therewith one or more oxygen, Nitrogen-atoms.
The non-volatile non-polar oil is more preferably the non-volatile non-polar oil based on hydrocarbon.
The non-volatile non-polar oil based on hydrocarbon preferably can be selected from the linear chain or branched chain hydrocarbon of mineral or synthesis source, such as:
Atoleine or derivatives thereof,
Saualane,
Isoeicosane,
Liquid petrolatum,
Naphtalene oil,
Polybutene, the Indopol H-100(molal weight or the g/mol of MW=965 sold or manufactured such as Ineos company), The g/mol of Indopol H-300(MW=1340) and the g/mol of Indopol H-1500(MW=2160),
Parleam, the Parleam sold such as Nippon Oil Fats company®, Amoco company sell or manufacture Panalane H-300 E(MW=1340 g/mol), Synteal company sell or manufacture Viseal 20000(MW= 6000 g/mol) and Witco company sells or Rewopal PIB 1000(MW=1000 g/mol of manufacture),
Decene/butylene copolymer, polybutene/polyisobutene co-polymer, especially Indopol L-14,
Poly decene and Nexbase 2004, such as: the Puresyn 10(MW that Mobil Chemicals company sells or manufactures= 723 g/mol) and the g/mol of Puresyn 150(MW=9200),
And their mixture.
Preferably, fixed oil of the invention is polybutene.
Preferably, composition of the invention is further included selected from the non-volatile polar oil based on hydrocarbon, non-volatile based on hydrocarbon Or mixtures thereof non-polar oil at least one fixed oil.
It is highly preferred that the fixed oil being further contained in the composition can be selected from C10-C26 alcohol, the plant based on hydrocarbon Or mixtures thereof oil, saualane, polybutene.
F) additive
In one particular embodiment, composition according to the present invention further includes at least oneization selected from lipophilic solvent Close object.
Composition according to the present invention also may include common any additive in involved field, such as selected from colorant (colouring agents), natural gum, anion, cation, both sexes or nonionic surfactant, silicone surfactant, Resin, thickener, filler, dispersing agent, antioxidant, essential oil, preservative, fragrance, neutralizer, fungicide, UV sun-screening agent, makeup Activating agent is savored, such as vitamin, moisturizer, emollient or collagen protective agent, coloring agent (colorants) and its mixture.
Preferably, when composition of the invention is used for keratin material, especially lip makeup, in group of the invention It closes and uses colorant in object.
The colorant can be selected from fat-soluble or non-fat-soluble, organic or inorganic colorant, and the material with optical effect Material and its mixture.
For the purpose of the present invention, term " colorant " refers to it is coloured can generate when enough prepare in the composition The compound of optical effect.
Composition of the invention preferably can further include at least one coloring selected from or mixtures thereof pigment, nacre Agent.
Term " pigment " is understood to refer to insoluble in liquid organic phase and is intended to by the composition and/or with the combination White or coloured, inorganic (mineral) or organic filler of the coloring of deposit made of object and/or opacification.
The pigment can be selected from coloring earth, organic pigment and composite pigment (the i.e. face based on mineral and/or organic material Material).
The pigment can be selected from solid color pigments, color lake and the pigment with optical effect, such as goniochromatism (goniochromat Ic) pigment.
Coloring earthCan be selected from metal oxide pigment, chromium oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow, red), titanium dioxide, Zinc oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, hydrated chromium, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, barba hispanica, metal powder such as aluminium powder and copper powder and Its mixture.
Organic color lakeIt is the organic pigment formed by the dyestuff for being attached to substrate.
The color lake of also referred to as organic pigment can be selected from llowing group of materials and its mixture:
Alkermes,
Azo dyes, anthraquinone dye, indigoid dye, xanthene dye, pyrene dyestuff, quinoline dye, kiton colors or fluorane The organic pigment of dyestuff.
The organic pigment that can especially mention is those of following denotations: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5、D&C Green No. 6、D&C Orange No. 4、D&C Orange No. 5、D&C Orange No. 10、D&C Orange No. 11、D&C Red No. 6、D&C Red No. 7、D&C Red No. 17、D&C Red No. 21、D&C Red No. 22、D&C Red No. 27、D&C Red No. 28、D&C Red No. 30、D&C Red No. 31、D&C Red No. 33、D&C Red No. 34、D&C Red No. 36、D&C Violet No. 2、D&C Yellow No. 7、D&C Yellow No. 8、D&C Yellow No. 10、D&C Yellow No. 11、FD&C Blue No. 1,FD&C Green No. 3,FD&C Red No. 40,FD&C Yellow No. 5,FD&C Yellow No. 6;
Organic color lake can be acid dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmenthane or fluoran dyes Insoluble sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminium, zirconium, strontium or titanium salt, these dyestuffs may include at least one carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid group.
Organic color lake can also be supported on organic carrier, such as rosin or aluminum benzoate.
In organic color lake, can especially those of following denotations be mentioned: 2 aluminum lake of D&C Red No., D&C Red No. 3 aluminum lakes, 4 aluminum lake of D&C Red No., 6 aluminum lake of D&C Red No., the 6 barium color lake D&C Red No., D&C Red No. 6 barium/strontium color lake, the 6 strontium color lake D&C Red No., the 6 potassium color lake D&C Red No., 7 aluminum lake of D&C Red No., D& The 7 barium color lake C Red No., the 7 calcium color lake D&C Red No., 7 calcium of D&C Red No./strontium color lake, 7 zirconium of D&C Red No. Color lake, the 8 sodium color lake D&C Red No., 9 aluminum lake of D&C Red No., the 9 barium color lake D&C Red No., D&C Red No. 9 barium/strontium color lake, the 9 zirconium color lake D&C Red No., the 10 sodium color lake D&C Red No., 19 aluminum lake of D&C Red No., D&C The 19 barium color lake Red No., the 19 zirconium color lake D&C Red No., 21 aluminum lake of D&C Red No., 21 zirconium color of D&C Red No. Shallow lake, 22 aluminum lake of D&C Red No., 27 aluminum lake of D&C Red No., 27 aluminium of D&C Red No./titanium/zirconium color lake, D&C The 27 barium color lake Red No., the 27 calcium color lake D&C Red No., the 27 zirconium color lake D&C Red No., 28 aluminium color of D&C Red No. Shallow lake, 30 color lake D&C Red No., the 31 calcium color lake D&C Red No., 33 aluminum lake of D&C Red No., D&C Red No. 34 calcium color lakes, 36 color lake D&C Red No., 40 aluminum lake of D&C Red No., 1 aluminum lake of D&C Blue No., D&C 3 aluminum lake of Green No., 4 aluminum lake of D&C Orange No., 5 aluminum lake of D&C Orange No., D&C Orange No. 5 zirconium color lakes, 10 aluminum lake of D&C Orange No., the 17 barium color lake D&C Orange No., D&C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum lake, the 5 zirconium color lake D&C Yellow No., 6 aluminum lake of D&C Yellow No., the 7 zirconium color lake D&C Yellow No., 10 aluminum lake of D&C Yellow No., 1 aluminum lake of FD&C Blue No., 4 aluminum lake of FD&C Red No., FD&C Red No. 6 aluminum lake of 40 aluminum lakes, 5 aluminum lake of FD&C Yellow No. and FD&C Yellow No..
Can also mention lipid-soluble dye, for example, tonyred, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, beta carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow.
At publication " International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook ", 1997 editions, the 371st to 386 and page 524 to 528, " The Cosmetic, Toiletries and Fragrance Association " is published to be mentioned and above-cited each toner in (its content is incorporated by present patent application through this) Corresponding chemical substance.
The pigment can also have been subjected to hydrophobic treatment.
Water repellent agent can be selected from silicone, such as polymethyl siloxane, dimethyl silicone polymer, alkoxy silane and perfluor alkane Base silane;Fatty acid, such as stearic acid;Metallic soap, such as two aluminium myristates, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamic acid, perfluoroalkyl phosphorus Acid esters, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazane, polyhexafluoropropylene oxide, gathering comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether group Silicone oxygen alkane and amino acid;N- acylamino acid or its salt;Lecithin, three iso stearyl titanate esters (isopropyl of isopropyl Triisostearyl titanate) and its mixture.
N- acylamino acid may include the acyl group containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2- ethyl hexyl, caproyl, the moon Osmanthus acyl group, myristoyl, palmityl, stearyl or cocoyl.The salt of these compounds can be aluminium, magnesium, calcium, Zirconium, zinc, sodium or sylvite.Amino acid can be such as lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
The term " alkyl " mentioned in above compound particularly relates to preferably comprise 5 to 16 containing 1 to 30 carbon atom The alkyl of carbon atom.
The pigment of hydrophobic treatment is particularly described in patent application EP-A-1 086 683.
For present patent application, term " nacre " refers to the colored particle of any shape, may or may not be rainbow Color, especially generated in their shell by certain mollusks, or synthesis, and imitated via optical interference with color Fruit.
The nacreous example that can be mentioned includes pearlescent pigment, as the odenite of iron oxide-coated, bismuth oxychloride are coated with Mica, chromium oxide coating odenite, specifically for the above-mentioned type organic dyestuff coating odenite and be based on bismuth oxychloride Pearlescent pigment.
They are also possible to be superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxide and/or toner on its surface Mica particle.
The nacre can particularly have yellow, pink colour, red, bronze colour, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery or color Pool.
According to a further preferred embodiment, composition of the invention includes at least one pigment.
Preferably, when it is present, colorant is excellent with the weight of 0.01 weight % to 5 % of the total weight relative to the composition The amount for selecting 0.1 weight % to 3 weight % is present in the composition.
The property quality and quantity of additive present in composition according to the present invention is adjusted thus not influence required cosmetics Property and its stability are the routine operation items of those skilled in the art.
Composition according to the present invention can be prepared in a usual manner.
G) galenic form (Galenic form)
Composition of the invention is suitable as skin nursing, makeup or cosmetic treatments product.More particularly, composition of the invention It is cosmetic product, such as lip gloss, lip oil form.
Composition of the invention is liquid.
Composition of the invention is anhydrous as defined above.
H) method and purposes
According to an embodiment, the present invention relates to a kind of for handling the non-treatment method of keratin material comprising incite somebody to action this The composition of invention is applied to the step on keratin material.
Present invention is preferably related to the nursing of skin, especially lip and/or cosmetic methods comprising by combination of the invention Object is applied to the step on skin, especially lip.
According to another embodiment, the present invention relates to compositions of the invention in keratin material, especially skin, more special It is not the purposes in the nursing and/or makeup of lip.
The following example is provided as non-limiting example of the invention.Percentage is weight percentage.
Embodiment
Formulation embodiment
Prepare following formulation of the invention and contrast preparation:
Contrast preparation 1 ' is in containing the silicone dimethyl silicone polymer cross-linked polymeric for becoming known for reducing sticky sense The formulation 1 of the invention of object.
Contrast preparation 2 ' is in without the formulation of the invention such as claimed pasty compound in the present invention 2。
All formulations all use two isooctadecanol ester QS to 100 of malic acid.
Formulation is prepared according to the following steps:
The mixed phase A at 25 DEG C is until uniformly;
Phase A is heated to 85 DEG C, and phase B is added in phase A, mixing is until uniformly;
The mixture is cooled to 25 DEG C, phase C is added in the mixture and is mixed until uniformly.
Assess embodiment
Carry out the present invention and the non-stick of contrast preparation, viscosity, stability and the assessment using quality.
It is assessed by instrument and reviewer non-stick.
The instrument non-stick of the present invention and contrast preparation is carried out by the movement of lip of the simulation containing the formulation Test.
Specifically, using applicator respectively in two panels by Beaulax, sell 5 centimetres of diameter of company of Co., Ltd. Biological skin on uniformly apply 20 milligrams of formulations 1 and contrast preparation 1 ' of the invention.By they it is placed adjacent one another It exists side by side and is separated using Diastron MTT170 device together, to test the drag for separating this two panels biological skin.
As the result is shown it is the value of Peak_Load (N), is in the whole process in set rate (as point/second (points per second)) under maximum drag force between this two panels biological skin.It is that unit measurement is drawn with newton (N) Power.The value of higher Peak_Load (N) represents the more sticky sense of the formulation.
Then 6 reviewers apply on their lip respectively as the formulation of the invention of lip oil product and right Than formulation, and the score of sticky sense is provided by reviewer respectively:
2.5 to 3 (including endpoints): not gluing completely after the application, very salubrious and comfortable feeling;
1.5 to 2.5 (including endpoints): it does not stick to after the application micro- viscous but acceptable;
Lower than 1.5 (including endpoints): it is sticky after the application, it is uncomfortable.
Of the invention match is assessed at 25 DEG C with 180 viscosimeter of Rheomat of the 200 rpm rotor rotated using being furnished with The viscosity of object processed and contrast preparation.Rotor used in the test is rotor M3.
Then by formulation of the invention 25 to 45 DEG C at a temperature of store 2 months, to assess stability.
6 reviewers assess this hair and using these formulations respectively as lip oil product on the lip at them The use quality of bright formulation and contrast preparation, and provide by reviewer the comment about effect and smear.
As a result as follows:
It observes, compared with contrast preparation 1 ', formulation 1 of the invention is although contain more two isooctadecanols of malic acid Ester (it is more more viscous than the dimethyl silicone polymer in silicone elastomer), but there is the drag for reducing by 7%, this is after the application Man who is evaluated person clearly perceives.Contrast preparation 1 ' shows sticky sense after being applied on lip, this is reviewer's not phase It hopes.
In addition, compared with contrast preparation 2 ', formulation 2 of the invention described in reviewer on lip according to showing Preferably not viscous sense, while keeping enough viscosity.On the other hand, contrast preparation 2 ' is shown undesirable due to low viscosity Use quality.
In short, formulation 1 and 2 of the invention with comparison 1 ' and 2 ' compared with improved viscosity non-stick, enough with And it is good use quality.
Finally it is observed that formulation 1 and 2 of the invention all through when stablize.

Claims (15)

1. anhydrous composition, it includes:
A) at least one oil selected from the ester containing at least 18 carbon atoms of;
B) at least one pasty compound;
C) ester of at least one dextrin and fatty acid;With
D) at least one non-emulsified organopolysiloxane elastomers of.
2. the composition of claim 1, wherein the oil is selected from monoesters, diester, hydroxylating monoesters, hydroxylating diester, three esters, four Ester, polyester, dimer diol and the unitary carboxylic obtained by the condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and glycol The polyester of ester, dimer diol and the monocarboxylic acid or dicarboxylic acids of acid or dicarboxylic acids, it includes at least 18 carbon atoms, comprising extremely The diester of few 18 carbon atoms, by least one hydroxy carboxylic acid's triglycerides by aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by aliphatic dicarboxylic ester Or mixtures thereof change the polyester generated, all these all includes at least 18 carbon atoms,;The oil is preferably selected from comprising at least 18 The diester of a carbon atom;The oil is more preferably selected from the diester comprising 18 to 60 carbon atoms, even more preferably includes 18 to 50 The diester of a carbon atom.
3. the composition of claims 1 or 2, wherein the oil is two isooctadecanol ester of malic acid.
4. the composition of any one of preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the oil is a) with the total weight relative to the composition 0.5 weight % to 45 weight %, preferably 5 weight % are present in described group to 40 weight %, the amount of more preferable 10 weight % to 35 weight % It closes in object.
5. the composition of any one of preceding claims 1 to 4, wherein the pasty compound be selected from lanolin and its derivative, Vaseline, polymerization or non-polymeric silicone compounds, polymerization or non-polymeric fluorochemical, polyvinyl, by one or more C2-C100, preferably C2-C50Or mixtures thereof fat-soluble polyethers that polyethersization between glycol generates, ester;It is preferably selected from vaseline, mine Rouge, double-behenyl base/iso stearyl/phytosterol dimerization two sub- oil base, the more acyl group adipate esters -2 of double-two glycerol, hydrogenated castor Oily dimerization dilinoleic acid ester, rilanit special isostearate, mango grease, shea butter rouge, or mixtures thereof;More preferably choosing From vaseline.
6. the composition of any one of preceding claims 1 to 5, wherein the pasty compound is relative to the total of the composition The 5 weight % to 40 weight % of weight, the amount of preferably 10 weight % to 30 weight % are present in the composition.
7. the composition of any one of preceding claims 1 to 6, wherein the dextrin ester is selected from dextrin and saturation or unsaturated, straight Chain or branch C12To C24Or mixtures thereof the ester of fatty acid,;It is preferably selected from dextrin and saturation C14-C18The ester of fatty acid or it is mixed Close object;It is more preferably selected from or mixtures thereof dextrin myristinate, dextrin palmitate.
8. the composition of any one of preceding claims 1 to 7, wherein the dextrin ester is with the total weight relative to the composition 0.1 weight % to 10 weight %, the amount of preferably 1 weight % to 5 weight % is present in the composition.
9. the composition of any one of preceding claims 1 to 8, wherein the non-emulsified organopolysiloxane elastomers are by containing At least one, which is bonded to the diorganopolysiloxanecompositions of the hydrogen on silicon and two containing the ethylenically unsaturated group being bonded on silicon, has Crosslinking addition reaction of the machine polysiloxanes especially in the presence of platinum catalyst;Or pass through the organic poly- silicon oxygen of two containing hydroxyl end groups Alkane and the dehydrogenation especially in the presence of organotin being bonded to containing at least one between the diorganopolysiloxanecompositions of the hydrogen on silicon Crosslinking condensation reaction;Or it is anti-by the crosslinking condensation of the diorganopolysiloxanecompositions containing hydroxyl end groups and hydrolyzable organopolysilane It answers;Or the heat cross-linking by organopolysiloxane especially in the presence of organic peroxide catalyst;Or by by high energy spoke It penetrates, as the crosslinking of the organopolysiloxane of gamma-rays, ultraviolet light or electron beam obtains.
10. the composition of any one of preceding claims 1 to 9, wherein the non-emulsified organopolysiloxane elastomers pass through (A) The diorganopolysiloxanecompositions and (B) for the hydrogen being respectively bonded on silicon containing at least two are bonded on silicon containing at least two Crosslinking addition reaction of the diorganopolysiloxanecompositions of ethylenically unsaturated group especially in the presence of (C) platinum catalyst obtains;It is preferred that By the dimethyl polysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end group and contain trimethyl siloxy end-groups Reaction of methylhydrogenpolysi,oxane in the presence of platinum catalyst obtain.
11. the composition of any one of preceding claims 1 to 10 gathers wherein the non-emulsified organopolysiloxane elastomers are selected from Dimethicone crosspolymers, vinyl dimethicone cross polymer, dimethyl silicone polymer/vinyl are poly- Dimethicone crosspolymers and its mixture;It is preferably delivered at least one oil;Non-emulsified organic poly- silicon Oxygen alkane elastomer, which is more preferably selected from, has the poly dimethyl silicon delivered in the linear silicone oils of 1 to 10cst viscosity at 25 DEG C Oxygen alkane cross-linked polymer.
12. the composition of any one of preceding claims 1 to 11, wherein the non-emulsified organopolysiloxane elastomers are with opposite In the 0.1 weight % to 5 weight % of the total weight of the composition, the amount of preferably 0.2 weight % to 3 weight % are present in the combination In object.
13. the composition of any one of preceding claims 1 to 12 further includes at least one oil different from oil a), Selected from polarity or nonpolar non-volatile or mixtures thereof the oil based on hydrocarbon;It is preferably selected from C10-C26Alcohol, preferably monohydric alcohol are based on Or mixtures thereof the vegetable oil of hydrocarbon, saualane, polybutene;Be more preferably selected from octyldodecanol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, Squalene, polybutene, or mixtures thereof.
14. the composition of any one of preceding claims 1 to 13, further includes selected from or mixtures thereof pigment, nacre; It is preferably selected from least one colorant of pigment.
15. the anhydrous composition of nursing and/or makeup for keratin material, it includes:
A) at least one oil selected from the diester comprising 18 to 50 carbon atoms of 10 weight % of to 35 weight %;
B) at least one pasty compound of 10 weight % of to 30 weight %;
C) at least one dextrin of 1 weight % of to 5 weight % and saturation or unsaturated, linear chain or branched chain C12To C24Fatty acid Ester;With
D) the non-emulsified organopolysiloxane elastomers of at least one of 0.2 weight % of to 3 weight % are selected from and have at 25 DEG C Lower 1 to 100cst, the dimethyl silicone polymer crosslinking of the linear silicone oils mixing of 1 to 10cst viscosity is poly- especially at 25 DEG C Close object.
CN201680080174.0A 2016-01-27 2016-01-27 Anhydrous composition with not viscous sense Pending CN109310619A (en)

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WO2009074963A2 (en) * 2007-12-13 2009-06-18 L'oreal Cosmetic composition comprising macadamia oil and a wax
CN101951874A (en) * 2007-12-20 2011-01-19 莱雅公司 Cosmetic product, its purposes and the cosmetic test kit that contains described product
CN102421409A (en) * 2009-05-06 2012-04-18 欧莱雅 Cosmetic assembly for making up and/or caring for keratin materials
WO2013190704A1 (en) * 2012-06-21 2013-12-27 L'oreal Liquid cosmetic composition comprising a non-volatile hydrocarbonated oil, a non-volatile dimethicone oil and a dextrin ester
CN104379217A (en) * 2012-06-21 2015-02-25 莱雅公司 Liquid cosmetic composition comprising an oil, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles and a wax with a melting point of greater than 60 DEG C
CN104394832A (en) * 2012-06-21 2015-03-04 莱雅公司 Cosmetic composition comprising an oil, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles and a hydrocarbon-based resin

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JP6285196B2 (en) * 2013-02-13 2018-02-28 株式会社コーセー Oily makeup cosmetics
JP5851060B1 (en) * 2015-02-25 2016-02-03 株式会社ノエビア Oily cosmetics

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5266321A (en) * 1988-03-31 1993-11-30 Kobayashi Kose Co., Ltd. Oily make-up cosmetic comprising oil base and silicone gel composition
WO2009074963A2 (en) * 2007-12-13 2009-06-18 L'oreal Cosmetic composition comprising macadamia oil and a wax
CN101951874A (en) * 2007-12-20 2011-01-19 莱雅公司 Cosmetic product, its purposes and the cosmetic test kit that contains described product
CN102421409A (en) * 2009-05-06 2012-04-18 欧莱雅 Cosmetic assembly for making up and/or caring for keratin materials
WO2013190704A1 (en) * 2012-06-21 2013-12-27 L'oreal Liquid cosmetic composition comprising a non-volatile hydrocarbonated oil, a non-volatile dimethicone oil and a dextrin ester
CN104379217A (en) * 2012-06-21 2015-02-25 莱雅公司 Liquid cosmetic composition comprising an oil, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles and a wax with a melting point of greater than 60 DEG C
CN104394832A (en) * 2012-06-21 2015-03-04 莱雅公司 Cosmetic composition comprising an oil, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles and a hydrocarbon-based resin

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