CN108149480B - Orange-petal polyester-nylon composite fiber fabric suede dyeing and finishing process and fiber opening agent thereof - Google Patents
Orange-petal polyester-nylon composite fiber fabric suede dyeing and finishing process and fiber opening agent thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN108149480B CN108149480B CN201711432912.6A CN201711432912A CN108149480B CN 108149480 B CN108149480 B CN 108149480B CN 201711432912 A CN201711432912 A CN 201711432912A CN 108149480 B CN108149480 B CN 108149480B
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- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 82
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- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 63
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- 238000007730 finishing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 18
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 39
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- 238000004140 cleaning Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetic acid Chemical compound CC(O)=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
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- JVBXVOWTABLYPX-UHFFFAOYSA-L sodium dithionite Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]S(=O)S([O-])=O JVBXVOWTABLYPX-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 6
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- JOXIMZWYDAKGHI-UHFFFAOYSA-N toluene-4-sulfonic acid Chemical compound CC1=CC=C(S(O)(=O)=O)C=C1 JOXIMZWYDAKGHI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 238000001179 sorption measurement Methods 0.000 description 7
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- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-Propenoic acid Natural products OC(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
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- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 description 4
- MWPLVEDNUUSJAV-UHFFFAOYSA-N anthracene Chemical compound C1=CC=CC2=CC3=CC=CC=C3C=C21 MWPLVEDNUUSJAV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 description 4
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- 230000000536 complexating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
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- 229940028356 diethylene glycol monobutyl ether Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000009477 glass transition Effects 0.000 description 1
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- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 231100000989 no adverse effect Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- JCGNDDUYTRNOFT-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxolane-2,4-dione Chemical compound O=C1COC(=O)C1 JCGNDDUYTRNOFT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/244—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing sulfur or phosphorus
- D06M13/248—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing sulfur or phosphorus with compounds containing sulfur
- D06M13/256—Sulfonated compounds esters thereof, e.g. sultones
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/38—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table
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- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
- D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M15/263—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated carboxylic acids; Salts or esters thereof
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/0032—Determining dye recipes and dyeing parameters; Colour matching or monitoring
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- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/16—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using dispersed, e.g. acetate, dyestuffs
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
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- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
- D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
- D06P3/8214—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing ester and amide groups
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- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M2101/32—Polyesters
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- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M2101/34—Polyamides
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
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Abstract
The invention relates to the field of dyeing and finishing in textile industry, and discloses a orange-peel type polyester-nylon composite fiber fabric suede dyeing and finishing process and a fiber opening agent thereof, which comprise the following steps: (1) open width refining; (2) pre-shrinking-primary opening (3) opening with an opening agent; (4) presetting; (5) dyeing; (6) and (6) shaping. The invention has the following advantages and effects: the design of the formula of the fiber opening agent and the two-step fiber opening process thereof are beneficial to full fiber opening of the fiber, and the contradiction between fluffy feeling and strength damage is better balanced; compared with the traditional polyester sea-island silk imitated velvet fabric, the invention can omit the step of velvet grinding, has simple process flow and obviously improves the soaping fastness and the rubbing fastness.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of dyeing and finishing in the textile industry, in particular to a orange-peel type polyester-nylon composite fiber fabric suede dyeing and finishing process and a fiber opening agent thereof.
Background
The superfine fiber is one of the varieties with the highest technical content in the differential chemical fiber, has excellent characteristics which are not possessed by common fibers, has small diameter, large specific surface area, low bending rigidity and particularly soft hand feeling, and can be used for producing high-grade soft suede textiles. However, due to the limitation of spinneret processing technology, it is difficult to refine the fiber by changing the size of the spinning hole, and in order to obtain the ultra-fine denier fiber, the composite fiber is produced by the composite spinning technology, and then the ultra-fine fiber is obtained by the fiber opening process.
The composite fiber is mainly classified into a peel-off type and an island-in-sea type. The orange peel type fiber is the most important one of the peel type composite fibers, and is a composite fiber made by two mutually incompatible polymers with completely different chemical structures through a composite spinning method and arranged in an orange peel shape in a cross section. The composite fiber can be subjected to fiber opening treatment by a certain method, and different components are stripped to prepare superfine fiber.
The orange petal type polyester-nylon composite fiber has the advantages that due to the difference of the structures and the components of the two components, the adhesive force between the composite interfaces is weak, and when the orange petal type polyester-nylon composite fiber meets the action of external force and chemical reagents in the post-processing process, the shrinkage generates difference and the cracking occurs. The factors influencing the adhesion and the peeling of the two components of the polyester-nylon composite fiber mainly comprise: the performance of the two polymers, spinning conditions, the cross-sectional shape, the texture of the yarn and the fabric, the desizing degree of the fabric and the like.
The existing fiber opening method mainly comprises a heat treatment method, a mechanical processing method and a chemical method. At present, the opening of various composite fibers in a dye factory is usually realized by a chemical opening method, the chemical opening method is divided into an acid treatment method, an alkali treatment method and an organic solvent method, and the alkali reduction method is generally adopted in the alkali reduction opening treatment of the polyester-nylon composite superfine fibers, namely, the polyester-nylon composite superfine fibers are arranged in alkali liquor, so that the polyester-nylon composite filaments are hydrolyzed under the comprehensive action of liquid alkali, temperature, time and an accelerant, and the polyester and the nylon are cracked into single superfine fibers. Meanwhile, with the continuous increase of the concentration, the temperature and the time of caustic soda, the fiber opening is more and more sufficient, the fineness of the superfine fiber is thinned, the number of monofilaments is increased, the thickness of the fabric is increased, the hand feeling is soft, and the water absorption capacity, the solvent absorption capacity, the decontamination capability and the wiping effect all reach the best state. However, the larger the fiber opening is, the larger the alkali loss is, the more the ultrafine fiber is continuously hydrolyzed and becomes finer, so that the strength of the monofilament becomes smaller, the fiber stiffness, i.e., the breaking strength of the fiber is reduced, the fabric thickness and the gram weight are also reduced, the fabric structure is loose, the winding resilience and the flatness of the fabric are reduced, the strength is also reduced, the fabric is very easy to careless and lose the use value, and the full fiber opening and the effective balance of the fabric strength and the fabric thickness cannot be realized.
The superfine polyester-nylon composite fiber has the dyeing performance such as level dyeing property, color fastness and the like which are greatly different from those of the conventional fiber due to the special structure and the superfine fiber diameter, 1. the reduction effect on the fastness is obviously higher than that of the conventional fiber, the main reasons are that ① fiber has large specific surface area, strong adsorption capacity on dye, is easy to form multi-layer overlapped adsorption on the surface of the fiber, the binding force is weak, the dye is easy to fall off, ②, due to the existence of the components of the nylon fiber, the disperse dye dyes nylon, the color fastness after dyeing is poor, under the soaping test condition, part of the dye in the dyed fiber is easy to migrate from the interior of the fiber to the surface of the fiber to cause poor color fastness, ③ dye thermal migration influence is not easy to be dyed uniformly, ① polyester-nylon composite filament has fine fiber, large specific surface area, the adsorption speed of the fiber on the dye is easy to cause uneven adsorption, ② fiber is easy to cause uneven adsorption, after chemical and mechanical fiber opening, the surface of the fiber is rough, the adsorption amount of the fiber is more coarse than that the fiber, the adsorption speed of the fiber is easy to be absorbed by the dye, the surface of the dye is easy to be absorbed by the chemical and the dye, the dye is not easy to be absorbed by the wet dye, the surface of the polyester-dyed fiber, the polyester composite filament is easy to be subjected to the chemical and to be subjected to the chemical and to the wet dyeing of the wet dyeing, the dyeing of the fiber, the dyeing of the.
In the actual production process of the market, in order to obtain the hand feeling style of the imitation velvet, such as the imitation suede or the imitation peach skin, the chemical composite fiber is subjected to full opening treatment and then is subjected to a sanding process to prepare the imitation velvet style of the superfine denier fiber, and the fabric generally has some typical process problems in the subsequent dyeing and finishing processes. For example, (1) dyeing light color under acid condition, the disperse dye is easy to dye flower; (2) poor deep dyeing property, such as dark dyeing; (3) particularly poor in color fastness, such as a polyester sea-island silk suede, the rubbing fastness is usually only 1 to 2 grades; (4) fabric strength is severely damaged or fabric weight loss is excessive. These common problems can not be solved effectively, especially the color fastness problem, and the wearability and the application range of the fabric are greatly influenced. In addition, composite fiber suede or polyester peach-like velvet in the market inevitably needs to be subjected to a sanding process, some knitted warp-knitted fabrics need to be subjected to napping and shearing, the process flow is prolonged, the production cost is greatly improved, and the uniformity during subsequent dyeing and the strength of the fabric are influenced after the sanding process.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a orange-peel polyester-nylon composite fiber fabric suede dyeing and finishing process and a fiber opening agent thereof, which can better balance the contradiction between fiber strength and velvet feeling by fully opening fibers in two steps, and simultaneously avoid a suede step; during dyeing, disperse dye is used for alkaline dyeing, and through reasonable selection of the auxiliary agent, the uniform color register of the two phases of the polyester and nylon can be realized, various fastness indexes and the hand feeling style of the fabric can be improved, and meanwhile, the polyamide dyeing process by using acid dye is omitted.
The technical purpose of the invention is realized by the following technical scheme: a orange-peel type polyester-nylon composite fiber fabric velvet-like dyeing and finishing process comprises the following steps:
(1) open width refining
Washing and refining the polyester-nylon composite gray cloth by using an open width washing machine;
(2) preshrinking-preliminary splitting
Sequentially adding water, a Mizhongbao, the washed and refined polyester-nylon composite cloth, an alkali decrement accelerant, an oligomer remover and liquid alkali into a machine cylinder of a dyeing machine for pre-shrinking and primary splitting, and neutralizing and cleaning with acetic acid after the primary splitting is finished;
(3) opening agent for opening
Sequentially adding water, Mizhongbao, a scouring agent and a fiber opening agent into a cylinder of a dyeing machine, further opening the polyester-nylon composite fabric subjected to alkali primary opening, and cleaning with water after opening;
(4) booking
Presetting on a setting machine;
(5) dyeing process
Sequentially adding water, a Mizhongbao, an alkaline dyeing stabilizer, a chinlon leveling agent and a disperse dye into a machine cylinder of a dyeing machine, and dyeing the pre-shaped polyester-nylon composite fabric; carrying out reduction cleaning after dyeing is finished;
(6) shaping
And (5) shaping the dyed polyester-nylon composite fiber fabric.
By adopting the technical scheme, the fiber strength and the velvet feeling can be better balanced through two-step full fiber opening, and meanwhile, the velvet grinding process is omitted. The opening of the opening agent is beneficial to fully opening the composite fiber into superfine fiber, and the integral style of the fabric cannot be obtained only by the alkali opening in the first step.
During dyeing, proper disperse dye is screened for alkaline dyeing, the addition of the auxiliary agent can realize uniform color register of the two phases of the polyester and nylon, improve various fastness indexes and the hand feeling style of the fabric, and simultaneously avoid the polyamide dyeing process by using acid dye.
By the process, an excellent double-sided velvet style can be obtained, various indexes of the color fastness are all above grade 3, the fabric can replace a composite fiber suede nap or peach skin nap style fabric, and the fabric has a wide market prospect.
The invention is further set that in the step (2), water, Mizhongbao and washed and refined polyester-nylon composite cloth are sequentially added into a machine cylinder of a dyeing machine, the operation is carried out for 5 minutes, then alkali decrement accelerant and liquid alkali are sequentially added, the temperature is increased to 100 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min, the temperature is kept for 30 minutes, and the temperature is reduced to 60 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min to discharge liquid; firstly, feeding clean water, heating to 80 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min, preserving heat for 10 minutes, cooling to 60 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min, and discharging liquid; feeding clean water for the second time, heating to 60 ℃, preserving the heat for 10 minutes, and discharging the liquid; the concentration of the liquid alkali is 15g/L, the concentration of the liquid alkali in the bath is 1g/L, the concentration of the alkali weight reduction promoter is 2g/L, the concentration of the oligomer remover is 1g/L, and the bath ratio of the working solution is 1: 10, 3-4 tons of water.
By adopting the technical scheme, the temperature is raised and then lowered when the washed and refined polyester-nylon composite fabric is subjected to alkali primary opening, so that the full opening of alkali is effectively ensured, the thickness of the fabric is increased, the fabric is soft in hand feeling, and the water absorption capacity, the solvent absorption performance, the dirt-removing capacity and the wiping effect reach the optimal states; the alkali fiber opening effect is prevented from being influenced by washing with clean water twice, and the temperature is increased and then reduced, and meanwhile, redundant alkali decrement promoter, oligomer remover and liquid alkali can be washed away.
The invention is further set that after water is added into a cylinder of a dyeing machine in the step (3) and the bath is run for 5 minutes, scouring agent and fiber opening agent are sequentially added to further open the primarily opened polyester-nylon composite fabric, the temperature is raised to 100 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min, the temperature is raised to 110 ℃ at the speed of 1 ℃/min and is kept for 60 minutes, and the temperature is lowered to 60 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min to discharge liquid; feeding clean water for the third time, heating to 60 ℃, washing for 10 minutes, and discharging liquid; fourth, clear water is fed, and the mixture is washed for 10 minutes at the temperature of 45 ℃; the concentration of the treasure in the bath is 2g/L, the concentration of the scouring agent is 1g/L, and the concentration of the fiber opening agent is 3 g/L.
By adopting the technical scheme, when the splitting agent splits the polyester-nylon composite cloth split by alkali, the temperature is raised and then cooled firstly, so that the defect of insufficient splitting by alkali is avoided, and meanwhile, the strength loss of the terylene caused by excessive alkali decrement accelerant is avoided; through twice water washing, the temperature is raised firstly and then the temperature is lowered to avoid influencing the fiber opening effect of the fiber opening agent, and simultaneously, redundant fiber opening agent can be washed away.
The invention is further set that in the step (5), water is added into a cylinder of a dyeing machine, a Mizhongbao is operated for 5 minutes, then an alkaline dyeing stabilizer, a chinlon leveling agent and a disperse dye are sequentially added to dye the pre-shaped polyester-nylon composite cloth, the temperature is raised to 110 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min and is kept for 20 minutes, the temperature is raised to 128 ℃ at the speed of 1 ℃/min and is kept for 60 minutes, and the temperature is lowered to 60 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min and is discharged; fifth, clear water is fed, and the mixture is washed for 10 minutes at the temperature of 60 ℃ for discharging; adding clear water for the sixth time, adding liquid alkali, heating to 70 ℃, adding sodium hydrosulfite, heating to 90 ℃, keeping the temperature for 20 minutes, cooling to 60 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min, and discharging the liquid; and (4) feeding clean water for the seventh time, washing for 10 minutes at the temperature of 60 ℃ and discharging the liquor. The concentration of the treasure in the bath is 2g/L, the concentration of the alkaline dyeing stabilizer is 1g/L, the concentration of the nylon leveling agent is 3g/L, the concentration of the liquid alkali is 3g/L, and the concentration of the sodium hydrosulfite is 2 g/L.
Water and bath agent are sequentially added into a machine cylinder of the dyeing machine, alkali-resistant disperse dye is selected for alkali dyeing by adopting the technical scheme, the improvement of the dyeing fastness of the fabric is facilitated, the fabric is more smooth, the alkali condition and the chinlon leveling agent are selected for use, and the two means are used for uniformly dyeing the polyester and the chinlon.
When the terylene is dyed in alkaline, the pH value of the dye bath can be stably kept between 8 and 9, and the pH change is small. The alkaline dyeing stabilizer contains the components of the terylene leveling agent, has no adverse effect on the dye, has little change of chromatic light and wide application range of the dye. The alkaline dyeing stabilizer can effectively remove oligomers in a dye bath, and can prevent the recontamination of cloth surfaces and the pollution of dyeing cylinder bodies.
After dyeing is finished, the fabric is subjected to reduction cleaning, the flooding of the fabric is cleaned, and various color fastness of the fabric is improved.
The invention is further arranged that the fiber opening agent in the step (3) is composed of the following components in percentage by mass:
by adopting the technical scheme, the two components in the polyester-nylon composite fiber have different swelling ratios to p-toluenesulfonic acid, the interface generates internal stress, the adhesive force of the interface is reduced, and the two components can be peeled off; the p-toluenesulfonic acid has certain affinity to terylene, is easy to diffuse into an amorphous area of the composite fiber, acts on an interface between polyester and polyamide fibers, and can continuously permeate into new gaps along with the process of fiber opening to promote the cracking separation of the fibers; the acrylic acid provides acidity and has excellent dispersing performance, the polyester oligomer can be effectively dispersed, and the existence of the acrylic acid is beneficial to improving the fiber opening rate; the organic solvent is a micromolecular swelling agent, can quickly permeate into the fiber to reduce the glass transition temperature of the fiber, and utilizes various swelling agents to open the fiber.
The invention further provides that the organic solvent is isopropyl alcohol and/or diethylene glycol butyl ether. By adopting the technical scheme, the isopropanol and the diethylene glycol monobutyl ether have obvious anisotropic action on the nylon, so that the axial size of the nylon fiber is greatly changed, and a shearing force is generated to separate two components, thereby having a certain effect; two different solvents are compounded to play a role in synergy.
The polymerization degree of the high-molecular polyacrylic acid is 4000-6000.
By adopting the technical scheme, the polymerization degree of the acrylic acid determines the performance of the product, and different substances such as a color fixing agent, slurry and the like can be formed by different molecular weights. Through research, the molecular weight of the high molecular polyacrylic acid is 4000-6000, and the high molecular polyacrylic acid has good complexing dispersibility, can remove or disperse the terylene oligomer, and is beneficial to synergistically improving the fiber opening effect.
In conclusion, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
1. through a two-step fiber opening process which is complementary with alkali fiber opening, the contradiction between strength damage and velvet feeling can be balanced, and the strength is slightly influenced. The arrangement of the fiber opening agent helps the composite fiber to be fully opened into superfine fiber, and the integral style of the fabric cannot be obtained only by alkali fiber opening in the first step.
When dyeing, proper disperse dyes and auxiliaries are selected, and an alkaline dyeing process is combined, so that an acid dyeing process of chinlon can be omitted, the dyeing process flow is shortened, two phases are ensured to be level, the fastness can be improved, and the fabric is softer in hand feeling.
By the process, an excellent double-sided velvet style can be obtained, various indexes of the color fastness are all above grade 3, the fabric can replace a composite fiber suede nap or peach skin nap style fabric, and the fabric has a wide market prospect.
2. Two components in the polyester-nylon composite fiber have different swelling ratios to p-toluenesulfonic acid, internal stress is generated on an interface, the adhesive force of the interface is reduced, and the two components can be peeled off.
The p-toluenesulfonic acid has certain affinity to terylene, is easy to diffuse into an amorphous area of the composite fiber, acts on an interface between polyester and polyamide fibers, and can continuously permeate into new gaps along with the process of fiber opening to promote the cracking separation of the fiber.
The acrylic acid provides acidity and has excellent dispersing performance, the polyester oligomer can be effectively dispersed, and the existence of the acrylic acid is beneficial to improving the fiber opening rate.
The organic solvent has obvious anisotropic effect on the nylon, causes great change of the axial size of the nylon fiber, generates shearing force to separate two components, and has certain effect.
Detailed Description
Example 1
A orange-peel type polyester-nylon composite fiber fabric velvet-like dyeing and finishing process comprises the following steps:
(1) open width refining
Washing and refining the polyester-nylon composite gray cloth by using an open width washing machine, wherein the temperatures of six washing tanks are 55 ℃, 65 ℃, 80 ℃, 95 ℃, 80 ℃ and 40 ℃ respectively.
(2) Preshrinking-preliminary splitting
Sequentially adding water, Mizhongbao and the washed and refined polyester-nylon composite cloth into a machine cylinder of a dyeing machine, running for 5 minutes, sequentially adding an alkali decrement accelerator, an oligomer remover and liquid alkali, heating to 100 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min, preserving heat for 30 minutes, cooling to 60 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min, and discharging liquid; firstly, feeding clean water, heating to 80 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min, preserving heat for 10 minutes, cooling to 60 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min, and discharging liquid; and (4) feeding clean water for the second time, heating to 60 ℃, preserving the heat for 10 minutes, and discharging the liquid.
The concentration of the liquid alkali is 15g/L, the concentration of the liquid alkali in the bath is 1g/L, the concentration of the alkali weight reduction promoter is 2g/L, the concentration of the oligomer remover is 1g/L, and the bath ratio of the working solution is 1: 10, 3-4 tons of water.
The oligomer remover model is CP, and the manufacturer is: shaoxing Haichiachen chemical Co., Ltd; or model Sokalan CP 9, manufacturer: pasteur, Germany.
The type of the treasure in the bath is 2016X of the quality improver in the bath, and the manufacturer is as follows: shaoxing Haichiachen chemical Co., Ltd; or the type is anti-wrinkle agent TF-208C in the bath, and the manufacturer is as follows: zhejiang province of chemical-chemical union, Ltd.
(3) Opening agent for opening
Adding water into a machine cylinder of a dyeing machine, operating for 5 minutes, then sequentially adding a scouring agent and a fiber opening agent to further open the primarily opened polyester-nylon composite fabric, heating to 100 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min, heating to 110 ℃ at the speed of 1 ℃/min, keeping the temperature for 60 minutes, and cooling to 60 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min to discharge liquid; feeding clean water for the third time, heating to 60 ℃, washing for 10 minutes, and discharging liquid; fourth, clear water is fed, and the mixture is washed for 10 minutes at the temperature of 45 ℃ for liquid discharge; the concentration of the treasure in the bath is 2g/L, the concentration of the scouring agent is 1g/L, and the concentration of the fiber opening agent is 3 g/L.
The type of the scouring agent is Q-2C, and the manufacturer comprises: shaoxing Haichiachen chemical Co., Ltd; or the model is TF-188, and the manufacturer is: zhejiang province of chemical-chemical union, Ltd.
The type of the treasure in the bath is 2016X of the quality improver in the bath, and the manufacturer is as follows: shaoxing Haichiachen chemical Co., Ltd; or the type is anti-wrinkle agent TF-208C in the bath, and the manufacturer is as follows: zhejiang province of chemical-chemical union, Ltd.
The fiber opening agent comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
the polymerization degree of the high molecular polyacrylic acid is 4000-6000.
The opening agent of this example was prepared by stirring the above-mentioned components uniformly.
(4) Booking
And (5) shaping in a shaping machine, and controlling the width.
(5) Dyeing process
Adding water into a machine cylinder of a dyeing machine, operating a Mianbao for 5 minutes, then sequentially adding an alkaline dyeing stabilizer, a chinlon leveling agent and a disperse dye, dyeing the pre-shaped polyester-nylon composite fabric, heating to 110 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min, preserving heat for 20 minutes, heating to 128 ℃ at the speed of 1 ℃/min, preserving heat for 60 minutes, cooling to 60 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min, and discharging liquid; fifth, clear water is fed, and the mixture is washed for 10 minutes at the temperature of 60 ℃ for discharging; adding clear water for the sixth time, adding liquid alkali, heating to 70 ℃, adding sodium hydrosulfite, heating to 90 ℃, keeping the temperature for 20 minutes, cooling to 60 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min, and discharging the liquid; and (4) feeding clean water for the seventh time, washing for 10 minutes at the temperature of 60 ℃ and discharging the liquor.
The concentration of the dye in the bath is 2g/L, the concentration of the alkaline dye stabilizer is 1g/L, the concentration of the nylon leveling agent is 3g/L, the concentration of the liquid alkali is 3g/L, the concentration of the sodium hydrosulfite is 2g/L, and the dosage of the disperse dye is determined according to the dyeing depth requirement.
The disperse dyes are respectively 300% EX-SF deep blue, and the manufacturers are: zhejiang Longsheng group, Inc.; model 200% SE-GFL ruby, manufacturer: hangzhou Fulai anthracene extra fine chemical Co., Ltd; the model is 200% S-2R yellow, and the manufacturer is: hangzhou Fulai anthracene Extra fine chemical Co.
The type of the treasure in the bath is 2016X of the quality improver in the bath, and the manufacturer is as follows: shaoxing Haichiachen chemical Co., Ltd; or the type is anti-wrinkle agent TF-208C in the bath, and the manufacturer is as follows: zhejiang province of chemical-chemical union, Ltd.
The model of the alkaline dyeing stabilizer is AP-S, and the manufacturer comprises: shaoxing Haichiachen chemical Co., Ltd; or the manufacturer is Ningbo Huake textile auxiliary Co.
The model of the nylon leveling agent is 2007, and the manufacturer is: shaoxing Haichiachen chemical Co., Ltd; or MG-2200T, and the manufacturer is JUNZHOUZHOUMEIHUAYI CHEMICAL Co. (5) Shaping
And (5) shaping the dyed polyester-nylon composite fiber fabric.
Example 2
According to the polyester-nylon composite fiber fabric velvet dyeing and finishing process in the embodiment 1, the difference from the embodiment 1 lies in the composition of a fiber opening agent, and the fiber opening agent consists of the following components in percentage by mass:
example 3
According to the polyester-nylon composite fiber fabric velvet dyeing and finishing process in the embodiment 1, the difference from the embodiment 1 lies in the composition of a fiber opening agent, and the fiber opening agent consists of the following components in percentage by mass:
example 4
According to the polyester-nylon composite fiber fabric velvet dyeing and finishing process in the embodiment 1, the difference from the embodiment 1 lies in the composition of a fiber opening agent, and the fiber opening agent consists of the following components in percentage by mass:
(1) the comparison of the invention and alkali fiber opening experiments is shown in table 1:
table 1:
the experimental method comprises the following steps: and (5) testing the sample in a sample cylinder according to the process.
The first scheme is as follows: and (3) splitting the fiber once by adopting liquid caustic soda.
Scheme II: secondary splitting by adopting liquid caustic soda.
The third scheme is as follows: the first step adopts liquid alkali to open fiber, and the second step adopts fiber opening agent to open fiber.
From the table, it can be seen that the purpose of the non-sanding suede-like style can not be achieved by adopting the alkali one-step method for fiber opening, and the cloth surface has bright yarn reflection, and the fiber opening is insufficient. The alkali two-step method is adopted for fiber opening, and practice proves that the fiber opening is still insufficient, the capillary effect is not high, and the strength damage is large. According to the three-fiber-opening mode of the scheme, the fiber can be successfully opened, the sanding-free velvet is realized, the ideal velvet-imitating style is achieved, and the strength is reduced slightly.
(2) The ratio of the fabric prepared by the orange-petal polyester-nylon composite fiber according to the dyeing and finishing process to the similar style fabric in the market is shown in tables 2 and 3:
table 2:
table 3:
and (4) testing standard: (1) GB/T3920 and 2008 color fastness to rubbing ● experiments on ● textiles
(2) GB/T3921-2008 'color fastness to soaping' of textile color fastness
The polyester sea-island filament imitated velvet process sequentially comprises the following steps: grey cloth, napping, shearing, presetting, alkali decrement, dyeing, water squeezing, shaping, sanding and finishing and shaping.
Taking the market representative suede fabrics prepared by different processes with medium and dark colors as an example, as can be seen from tables 2 and 3, the friction fastness and soaping fastness of the polyester sea-island silk suede fabrics are generally low, which is a representative problem troubling the industry all the time, and the market does not solve the problem at present. As can be seen from tables 2 and 3, the prepared suede-like fabric has excellent fastness, greatly improved service performance and application range, can replace a plurality of suede-like fabrics in the market, and has very large market prospect.
The present embodiment is only for explaining the present invention, and it is not limited to the present invention, and those skilled in the art can make modifications of the present embodiment without inventive contribution as needed after reading the present specification, but all of them are protected by patent law within the scope of the claims of the present invention.
Claims (6)
1. A orange-peel type polyester-nylon composite fiber fabric velvet-like dyeing and finishing process is characterized by comprising the following steps:
(1) open width refining
Washing and refining the polyester-nylon composite gray cloth by using an open width washing machine;
(2) preshrinking-preliminary splitting
Sequentially adding water, a Mizhongbao, the washed and refined polyester-nylon composite cloth, an alkali decrement accelerant, an oligomer remover and liquid alkali into a machine cylinder of an overflow dyeing machine for pre-shrinking and primary splitting, and neutralizing and cleaning with acetic acid after the primary splitting is finished;
(3) opening agent for opening
Sequentially adding water, Mizhongbao, scouring agent and fiber opening agent into a machine cylinder of an overflow dyeing machine to further open the polyester-nylon composite fabric subjected to alkali primary opening, and cleaning with water after opening is finished;
the fiber opening agent comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
(4) booking
Presetting on a setting machine;
(5) dyeing process
Sequentially adding water, a Mizhongbao, an alkaline dyeing stabilizer, a chinlon leveling agent and a disperse dye into a machine cylinder of an overflow dyeing machine to dye the pre-shaped polyester-nylon composite fabric, and carrying out reduction cleaning after dyeing is finished;
(6) shaping
And (5) shaping the dyed polyester-nylon composite fiber fabric.
2. The orange-peel polyester-nylon composite fiber fabric velvet-like dyeing and finishing process according to claim 1, which is characterized in that: in the step (2), water, Mizhongbao and washed and refined polyester-nylon composite cloth are sequentially added into a machine cylinder of a dyeing machine, the operation is carried out for 5 minutes, then an alkali decrement accelerator, an oligomer remover and liquid alkali are sequentially added, the temperature is increased to 100 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min and is kept for 30 minutes, and the temperature is reduced to 60 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min to discharge liquid; firstly, feeding clean water, heating to 80 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min, preserving heat for 10 minutes, cooling to 60 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min, and discharging liquid; feeding clean water for the second time, heating to 60 ℃, preserving heat for 10 minutes and discharging liquid; the concentration of the liquid alkali is 15g/L, the concentration of the liquid alkali in the bath is 1g/L, the concentration of the alkali weight reduction promoter is 2g/L, the concentration of the oligomer remover is 1g/L, and the bath ratio of the working solution is 1: 10, 3-4 tons of water.
3. The orange-peel polyester-nylon composite fiber fabric velvet-like dyeing and finishing process according to claim 1, which is characterized in that: adding water into a cylinder of a dyeing machine in the step (3), running for 5 minutes, then sequentially adding a scouring agent and a fiber opening agent to further open the primarily opened polyester-nylon composite fabric, heating to 100 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min, heating to 110 ℃ at the speed of 1 ℃/min, keeping the temperature for 60 minutes, and cooling to 60 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min to discharge liquid; feeding clean water for the third time, heating to 60 ℃, washing for 10 minutes, and discharging liquid; fourth, clear water is fed, and the mixture is washed for 10 minutes at the temperature of 45 ℃ for liquid discharge; the concentration of the treasure in the bath is 2g/L, the concentration of the scouring agent is 1g/L, and the concentration of the fiber opening agent is 3 g/L.
4. The orange-peel polyester-nylon composite fiber fabric velvet-like dyeing and finishing process according to claim 1, which is characterized in that: in the step (5), water is added into a machine cylinder of a dyeing machine, a Mianbao is operated for 5 minutes, then an alkaline dyeing stabilizer, a chinlon leveling agent and a disperse dye are sequentially added, the pre-shaped polyester-nylon composite cloth is dyed, the temperature is raised to 110 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min and is kept for 20 minutes, the temperature is raised to 128 ℃ at the speed of 1 ℃/min and is kept for 60 minutes, and the temperature is lowered to 60 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min and is drained; fifth, clear water is fed, and the mixture is washed for 10 minutes at the temperature of 60 ℃ for discharging; adding clear water for the sixth time, adding liquid alkali, heating to 70 ℃, adding sodium hydrosulfite, heating to 90 ℃, keeping the temperature for 20 minutes, cooling to 60 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min, and discharging the liquid; water is fed for the seventh time, and the mixture is washed for 10 minutes at the temperature of 60 ℃ for discharging; the concentration of the treasure in the bath is 2g/L, the concentration of the alkaline dyeing stabilizer is 1g/L, the concentration of the nylon leveling agent is 3g/L, the concentration of the liquid alkali is 3g/L, and the concentration of the sodium hydrosulfite is 2 g/L.
5. The fiber opening agent for the orange-peel type polyester-nylon composite fiber fabric velvet-like dyeing and finishing process according to claim 1, which is characterized in that: the organic solvent is isopropanol and/or diethylene glycol butyl ether.
6. The fiber opening agent for the orange-peel type polyester-nylon composite fiber fabric velvet-like dyeing and finishing process according to claim 1, which is characterized in that: the polymerization degree of the high-molecular polyacrylic acid is 4000-6000.
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| CN113463408A (en) * | 2020-03-31 | 2021-10-01 | 上海鼎天时尚科技股份有限公司 | Dyeing and finishing method of polyester filament yarn velvet-like fabric |
| CN113882169B (en) * | 2021-10-26 | 2023-06-16 | 罗莱生活科技股份有限公司 | Sea-island type nano composite fiber fabric and dyeing and finishing process thereof |
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