Fabric layering printing and dyeing method
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of textile printing and dyeing, in particular to a fabric primary-secondary printing and dyeing method.
Background
With the development of economy and the improvement of the living standard of people, the functional requirements of the textile are not only limited to the requirement of wearing, but also have higher aesthetic requirements, and the color of the textile also provides a requirement, so that the textile is required to have unique color style and color style. In the industrial revolution process, the standardization of the restrictive colors leads to the industrial finished product colors with uniform quality, integrity and no defects, and the material living level of people is greatly improved. However, while following the concept of "people-oriented", product designers find that the love of consumers on the concept of "holding, unsound and encumbered" of the traditional handicraft is more and more obvious, the color closure must be broken by depending on a new color concept and an operation technique, and sporadic colors become necessary supplements for excessively stiff and hard expression of balanced and restricted colors in a modern color research system due to the characteristic advantages of freeness, openness, humanity and nature.
The accidental color creation mode decomposes the original perceptual experience process of color creation into a logic clear progressive stage, decomposes and explains each possible accidental condition or factor, points out the opportunity and degree control key point of accidental factor intervention, and has the following main points of guidance value to design practice: providing reference for improving scientific evaluation indexes of sporadic color works; scientifically and systematically exploring the possibility of accidental factor intervention color free hair growth; supporting the possibility of sporadic colors to produce creative results and innovative results in different application areas. The form of sporadic color phenomena is far from amorphous and its diffusion is far from terminating, so its research parent is open. In the future, numerous sporadic color works from different mothers of creations applying different methods of creations will still come up endlessly and in various forms.
The design of introducing the accidental color into the textile fabric is only one example of guiding the relevant application research by the basic achievement of the accidental color. On one hand, the textile fabric design is between artistic creation, process research and industrial design, and belongs to the application field closely related to accidental color. In evaluating multiple appearance form indexes of textile fabrics, color is very critical. Because people comprehensively sense the outside world through various organs including vision, touch, hearing, smell and the like, and the vision is taken as a main form, the vision easily generates sharper, quicker and more universal reaction to color change. Therefore, on the premise of utilizing limited structural change and slightly increasing material and process cost, the innovative textile fabric which has a multi-level color effect and is close to the fashion guide is designed by taking the accidental color design as a main direction, and the method is an approach with prominent commercial value. On the other hand, the textile and clothing industry is still the industry with the longest single industry chain and the most employment posts before Chinese mothers. The technical content and the design level of textile fabric products are practically improved, the industrial upgrading is promoted, the competitiveness of the whole industry in international trade interaction is improved, and the customs counting in the customs is of great significance. The textile fabric product not only needs to apply new materials and new technologies, but also has a novel and unique conception idea, can show differences and innovations in the aspects of color, pattern, surface structure and the like, and is the most promising way for exerting the labor force advantages of China and forming high-end and personalized textile products.
The research and development of printing and dyeing fabrics is always the key point of textile fabric design, and the technology is skillful and the appearance is various. Blue print cloth is an excellent representative of the traditional printing and dyeing type fabric in China. According to the records of historical materials, the process of the blue print cloth is popular in the Ming and Qing dynasties of the 12 th century of the Gongyuan, is widely used nationwide, has profound influence and is distributed to the present. From the similarity of appearance, it is credible that the blue print cloth is derived from the sandwich pattern. The jia vai is reserved in today's south of Zhejiang province, the production process is pure and single, and the survival condition loft is dangerous. Blue print cloth also faces a severe survival crisis, and technical innovation is imminent. The blue-printed cloth is a printed and dyed product with typical technological features of pattern engraving, missing printing and dyeing prevention and indigo dyeing, and features uniform ground colour, clear and bluish white contrast effect, fine and dense pattern and elegant style. However, for a long time, the blue print cloth is difficult to be blended into the changeable fashion trend of the modern textile fabric due to the lack of innovation breakthrough and single color, pattern and style; secondly, the blue printed cloth shows rough color appearance and plain original country style to prevent the blue printed cloth from improving quality grade; thirdly, the manual blue printing cloth process is subjected to batch imitation of modern mechanical printing and dyeing by using chemical dyes, and the cost price per se is higher, so that another obstacle of market popularization is formed. Therefore, the traditions of dye, process, pattern and material of the so-called fixed blue print cloth actually make the blue print cloth gradually depart from the popular market and tend to fall. Therefore, it is not easy to change the appearance of the blue-printed cloth. The traditional processing technology is recovered, and the traditional printing and dyeing technology is naturally preserved in a non-material culture way; but inherit and develop the method, which is a scientific thought that is not contradictory to parallel. Therefore, in each era, the design method has mainstream thought and innovation concept, and has powerful influence on designing various categories. Only by reasonably combining the tradition and innovation and giving up the standardization and industrialization mode and pursuing the regression of manual rhyme again on the premise of keeping the main style characteristics of the blue printed cloth, the traditional technology can keep the development vitality of the autohemopoiesis at the present time.
The traditional fabric printing and dyeing is generally carried out by adopting single-sided or single-layer fabric, the process is single, the product color is monotonous, the step effect is avoided, and the added value of the product is low, so that a new fabric printing and dyeing method is needed to be developed to endow the fabric with more added color values and improve the economic benefit of textile production.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the technical problems in the prior art, the invention provides the novel primary and secondary printing and dyeing method for the textile fabric, which has the advantages of rich dyeing colors, strong layering, step effect of colors and high added value of printing and dyeing textiles.
In order to realize the parent technology, the invention provides the following technical scheme:
a fabric layering printing and dyeing method comprises the following steps:
(1) weaving the fabric to be dyed, dividing the fabric to be dyed into a child fabric roll and a mother fabric roll, wherein the child fabric roll is provided with the child fabric, and the mother fabric roll is provided with the mother fabric; pretreating the mother fabric roll, and enhancing the dye uptake and dye liquor permeability of the mother fabric through pretreatment; then, the parent fabric is subjected to tentering and preshrinking drying processes through a setting machine in sequence, and the child fabric is subjected to tentering through the setting machine;
(2) simultaneously dyeing the child fabric roll and the mother fabric roll processed in the step (1), feeding the child fabric roll and the mother fabric roll into a dyeing device respectively through a child fabric feeding system and a mother fabric feeding system in parallel, wherein the mother fabric to be dyed unwound from the mother fabric roll is positioned above the child fabric to be dyed unwound from the child fabric roll, and a dyeing mechanism in the dyeing device is positioned above the mother fabric to be dyed;
(3) the fabric to be dyed is fed into the dyeing device vertically and parallelly, the fabric to be dyed and the fabric to be dyed are dyed simultaneously in the dyeing device, the dye discharged from a dyeing mechanism in the dyeing device firstly dyes the fabric to be dyed positioned above the fabric to be dyed, the fabric to be dyed is dyed thoroughly, the dye permeates through the fabric to be dyed to reach the fabric to be dyed below the fabric to be dyed, and the dye permeating out from the fabric to be dyed is used for dyeing the fabric to be dyed below the fabric to be dyed;
(4) the fabric to be dyed and the fabric to be dyed are simultaneously dyed to form a mother dyed fabric and a child dyed fabric, the mother dyed fabric and the child dyed fabric are extruded together through a compression roller, and redundant dye is extruded;
(5) the mother dyed fabric and the child dyed fabric are respectively reeled by a mother dyed fabric reeling system and a child dyed fabric reeling system, and the mother dyed fabric reeling system and the child dyed fabric reeling system are respectively matched with the mother fabric feeding system and the child fabric feeding system in the step (2); the female fabric feeding system and the female dyed fabric winding system are matched with each other to realize unwinding, feeding, winding and winding of the female fabric, and the male fabric feeding system and the female dyed fabric winding system are matched with each other to realize unwinding, feeding, winding and winding of the female fabric; the advancing directions of the child fabric and the mother fabric in the whole printing and dyeing process are always kept in parallel up and down;
(6) and respectively drying the mother dyed fabric and the child dyed fabric at low temperature, and properly rolling according to the product requirements.
Preferably, the tentering process of the mother fabric in the step (1) includes: tentering the tentered mother fabric through wet cloth of a setting machine, wherein the temperature of an oven of the setting machine is controlled to be 160-170 ℃, the speed of cloth is 40-50 m/min, tentering is carried out on the mother fabric after the mother fabric passes through a compression roller, and the width is controlled to be 100% -110% of the width of the wet cloth before tentering; the pre-shrinking and drying process of the mother fabric comprises the following specific steps: controlling the temperature of an oven in a pre-shrinking dryer to be 140-150 ℃, the speed of the cloth to be 30-40 m/min, the breadth of the cloth to be the breadth of wet cloth before stentering, and then blowing and drying the cloth by an air blower in the oven; the specific process of tentering of the setting machine for the sub-fabrics comprises the following steps: and (3) tentering the scutched sub-fabric through a setting machine, wherein the temperature of an oven of the setting machine is controlled to be 140-150 ℃, the speed of the cloth is 30-40 m/min, tentering is carried out on the sub-fabric after the sub-fabric passes through a compression roller, and the width is controlled to be 100% -120% of the wet width of the cloth before tentering.
Preferably, the step (1) of pretreating the mother fabric roll is to put the mother fabric into solutions with the concentrations of methyl salicylate, hydrogen peroxide, polyphenol oxidase, penetrant and sodium silicate of 10-15 g/L, 25-30 g/L, 1-2 g/L, 3-5 g/L and 9-10 g/L respectively for 20 min.
Preferably, the weaving in the step (1) is a weaving, knitting or non-weaving process.
Preferably, the dyeing mechanism of the dyeing device in the step (2) is spray dyeing or press roll dyeing.
Preferably, the female fabric feeding system, the female dyed fabric winding system, the child fabric feeding system and the child dyed fabric winding system are all driven by servo motors.
Preferably, the pressing roll in the step (4) is provided with a pressing force control device for controlling the pressing force for pressing the parent dyed fabric and the child dyed fabric so as to control the amount of the excess dye to be pressed.
Preferably, 5-25 wt% of reactive dye, 10-11 wt% of laurylamine polyoxyethylene ether, 2-3 wt% of titanium dioxide, 7-8 wt% of ethyl oxalate, 3-5 wt% of phenylpropanol, 1-3 wt% of anhydrous sodium sulphate, 2-15 wt% of paste, 10-11 wt% of dispersing agent, 1-2 wt% of defoaming agent and 1-2 wt% of water wetting agent are added into the dye in the step (3).
Preferably, the pretreatment solution further comprises a mixed solvent formed by compounding a first solvent and a second solvent, wherein the first solvent is one or a combination of more of acetone, cyclohexanone, ethyl acetate, ethylene glycol dimethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and propylene glycol methyl ether, and the second solvent is one or a combination of more of ethanol, acetone, diethylene glycol, isopropanol, isobutanol, acetonitrile and N, N-dimethylformamide; the ratio of the first solvent to the second solvent is 1:3-1: 5.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
the fabric printing and dyeing method of the invention simultaneously dyes the child fabric roll and the pretreated mother fabric roll which are fed into a dyeing system in parallel from top to bottom, feeds the child fabric roll and the mother fabric roll into a dyeing device in parallel through a child fabric feeding system and a mother fabric feeding system respectively, and the fabric to be dyed of the mother unwound from the mother fabric roll is positioned above the fabric to be dyed of the child unwound from the child fabric roll, the dyeing mechanism in the dyeing device is positioned above the fabric to be dyed of the mother, the fabric to be dyed of the mother and the fabric to be dyed of the child fed into the dyeing device are simultaneously dyed in the dyeing device in parallel up and down, the dye discharged from the dyeing mechanism in the dyeing device firstly dyes the fabric to be dyed of the mother positioned above, the fabric to be dyed of the mother is dyed thoroughly, and the dye permeates through the fabric to be dyed to reach the fabric to be dyed of the son below, and the dye permeating from the fabric to be dyed of the mother dyes the fabric to be dyed of the son below. Compared with the traditional printing and dyeing process, the method has the following advantages: firstly, two layers of fabrics are fed simultaneously for dyeing, dye firstly permeates a mother fabric positioned on the upper layer and then seeps and flows to a child fabric positioned on the lower layer for dyeing, the color patterns of the mother fabric and the child fabric are consistent, and the mother fabric and the child fabric are only different in color depth, namely, the two dyed fabrics can be matched for use, and when the dyed fabrics are used as ready-made clothes fabrics, the layering sense and the ladder sense of the colors of ready-made clothes can be improved; when the decorative fabric is used as a decorative fabric, the decorative fabric can also have very obvious steps and layering, has unique aesthetic effect, makes the decorative fabric more beautiful and improves the color added value of the fabric. Secondly, two fabrics are dyed at one time, the two fabrics are different only in depth, but the two fabrics are identical in color style, so that the dye is saved, the full use of the dye is promoted, and the waste is avoided. And thirdly, the two fabrics are sequentially printed, the production efficiency of printing and dyeing is also improved, the fabrics with two color patterns can be produced by one-time processing, the efficiency is high, and the color control of the products in the same batch is easier, so when the fabrics with different depths need to be printed and dyed, if the fabrics are printed and dyed for two times separately, errors are inevitably generated during dye blending, so that the depths are different during the two-time printing and dyeing, and the errors of the color tone are possible. Fourth, the master batch is first pre-treated to have better dye uptake and permeability, allowing the dye to penetrate through more easily.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be described in detail with reference to specific examples.
Example 1
A fabric layering printing and dyeing method comprises the following steps:
(1) weaving the fabric to be dyed, dividing the fabric to be dyed into a child fabric roll and a mother fabric roll, wherein the child fabric roll is provided with the child fabric, and the mother fabric roll is provided with the mother fabric; pretreating the mother fabric roll, and enhancing the dye uptake and dye liquor permeability of the mother fabric through pretreatment; then, the parent fabric is subjected to tentering and preshrinking drying processes through a setting machine in sequence, and the child fabric is subjected to tentering through the setting machine;
(2) simultaneously dyeing the child fabric roll and the mother fabric roll processed in the step (1), feeding the child fabric roll and the mother fabric roll into a dyeing device respectively through a child fabric feeding system and a mother fabric feeding system in parallel, wherein the mother fabric to be dyed unwound from the mother fabric roll is positioned above the child fabric to be dyed unwound from the child fabric roll, and a dyeing mechanism in the dyeing device is positioned above the mother fabric to be dyed;
(3) the fabric to be dyed is fed into the dyeing device vertically and parallelly, the fabric to be dyed and the fabric to be dyed are dyed simultaneously in the dyeing device, the dye discharged from a dyeing mechanism in the dyeing device firstly dyes the fabric to be dyed positioned above the fabric to be dyed, the fabric to be dyed is dyed thoroughly, the dye permeates through the fabric to be dyed to reach the fabric to be dyed below the fabric to be dyed, and the dye permeating out from the fabric to be dyed is used for dyeing the fabric to be dyed below the fabric to be dyed;
(4) the fabric to be dyed and the fabric to be dyed are simultaneously dyed to form a mother dyed fabric and a child dyed fabric, the mother dyed fabric and the child dyed fabric are extruded together through a compression roller, and redundant dye is extruded;
(5) the mother dyed fabric and the child dyed fabric are respectively reeled by a mother dyed fabric reeling system and a child dyed fabric reeling system, and the mother dyed fabric reeling system and the child dyed fabric reeling system are respectively matched with the mother fabric feeding system and the child fabric feeding system in the step (2); the female fabric feeding system and the female dyed fabric winding system are matched with each other to realize unwinding, feeding, winding and winding of the female fabric, and the male fabric feeding system and the female dyed fabric winding system are matched with each other to realize unwinding, feeding, winding and winding of the female fabric; the advancing directions of the child fabric and the mother fabric in the whole printing and dyeing process are always kept in parallel up and down;
(6) and respectively drying the mother dyed fabric and the child dyed fabric at low temperature, and properly rolling according to the product requirements.
Firstly, performing pretreatment on the fabric, wherein the specific process of the tentering process of the mother fabric in the step (1) is as follows: tentering the tentered mother fabric through wet cloth of a setting machine, wherein the temperature of an oven of the setting machine is controlled to be 160 ℃, the speed of cloth is 40m/min, tentering is carried out on the mother fabric after the mother fabric passes through a compression roller, and the width of the cloth is controlled to be 100% of that of the wet cloth before tentering; the pre-shrinking and drying process of the mother fabric comprises the following specific steps: controlling the temperature of an oven in a pre-shrinking dryer to be 140 ℃, the speed of the cloth to be 30m/min, the breadth of the cloth to be the breadth of wet cloth before stentering, and then blowing and drying the cloth by an air blower in the oven; the specific process of tentering of the setting machine for the sub-fabrics comprises the following steps: tentering the opened sub-fabric by a setting machine, wherein the temperature of an oven of the setting machine is controlled at 140 ℃, the speed of the cloth is controlled at 30m/min, tentering is carried out after the sub-fabric passes through a compression roller, and the width is controlled to be 100 percent of the wet width of the cloth before tentering.
The step (1) of pretreating the mother fabric roll is to put the mother fabric into solutions with the concentrations of methyl salicylate, hydrogen peroxide, polyphenol oxidase, penetrant and sodium silicate of 10 g/L, 25 g/L, 1 g/L, 3 g/L and 9 g/L for 20 min.
The present invention is not particularly limited with respect to the type of fabric, and the weaving in the step (1) is a weaving, knitting or non-weaving process.
The present invention is also not particularly limited with respect to the type of the printing and dyeing process, and the dyeing mechanism of the dyeing apparatus in the step (2) is spray dyeing or roll dyeing.
In order to ensure that the feeding and the coiling of the child fabric and the mother fabric are independent, the mother fabric feeding system, the mother dyed fabric coiling system, the child fabric feeding system and the child dyed fabric coiling system are all driven by servo motors.
In order to control the tension and the printing and dyeing depth in the whole processing process, the compression roller in the step (4) is provided with a compression force control device for controlling the compression force for extruding the parent dyed fabric and the child dyed fabric so as to control the amount of the redundant dye extruded.
Adding 5 wt% of reactive dye, 10 wt% of laurylamine polyoxyethylene ether, 2 wt% of titanium dioxide, 7 wt% of ethyl oxalate, 3 wt% of phenylpropanol, 1 wt% of anhydrous sodium sulphate, 2 wt% of paste, 10 wt% of dispersing agent, 1 wt% of defoaming agent and 1 wt% of water wetting agent into the dye in the step (3).
The pretreatment solution also comprises a mixed solvent formed by compounding a first solvent and a second solvent, wherein the first solvent is one or a combination of more of acetone, cyclohexanone, ethyl acetate, ethylene glycol dimethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and propylene glycol methyl ether, and the second solvent is one or a combination of more of ethanol, acetone, diethylene glycol, isopropanol, isobutanol, acetonitrile and N, N-dimethylformamide; the ratio of the first solvent to the second solvent is 1: 3.
Example 2
A fabric layering printing and dyeing method comprises the following steps:
(1) weaving the fabric to be dyed, dividing the fabric to be dyed into a child fabric roll and a mother fabric roll, wherein the child fabric roll is provided with the child fabric, and the mother fabric roll is provided with the mother fabric; pretreating the mother fabric roll, and enhancing the dye uptake and dye liquor permeability of the mother fabric through pretreatment; then, the parent fabric is subjected to tentering and preshrinking drying processes through a setting machine in sequence, and the child fabric is subjected to tentering through the setting machine;
(2) simultaneously dyeing the child fabric roll and the mother fabric roll processed in the step (1), feeding the child fabric roll and the mother fabric roll into a dyeing device respectively through a child fabric feeding system and a mother fabric feeding system in parallel, wherein the mother fabric to be dyed unwound from the mother fabric roll is positioned above the child fabric to be dyed unwound from the child fabric roll, and a dyeing mechanism in the dyeing device is positioned above the mother fabric to be dyed;
(3) the fabric to be dyed is fed into the dyeing device vertically and parallelly, the fabric to be dyed and the fabric to be dyed are dyed simultaneously in the dyeing device, the dye discharged from a dyeing mechanism in the dyeing device firstly dyes the fabric to be dyed positioned above the fabric to be dyed, the fabric to be dyed is dyed thoroughly, the dye permeates through the fabric to be dyed to reach the fabric to be dyed below the fabric to be dyed, and the dye permeating out from the fabric to be dyed is used for dyeing the fabric to be dyed below the fabric to be dyed;
(4) the fabric to be dyed and the fabric to be dyed are simultaneously dyed to form a mother dyed fabric and a child dyed fabric, the mother dyed fabric and the child dyed fabric are extruded together through a compression roller, and redundant dye is extruded;
(5) the mother dyed fabric and the child dyed fabric are respectively reeled by a mother dyed fabric reeling system and a child dyed fabric reeling system, and the mother dyed fabric reeling system and the child dyed fabric reeling system are respectively matched with the mother fabric feeding system and the child fabric feeding system in the step (2); the female fabric feeding system and the female dyed fabric winding system are matched with each other to realize unwinding, feeding, winding and winding of the female fabric, and the male fabric feeding system and the female dyed fabric winding system are matched with each other to realize unwinding, feeding, winding and winding of the female fabric; the advancing directions of the child fabric and the mother fabric in the whole printing and dyeing process are always kept in parallel up and down;
(6) and respectively drying the mother dyed fabric and the child dyed fabric at low temperature, and properly rolling according to the product requirements.
Firstly, performing pretreatment on the fabric, wherein the specific process of the tentering process of the mother fabric in the step (1) is as follows: tentering the tentered mother fabric through wet cloth of a setting machine, wherein the temperature of an oven of the setting machine is controlled at 170 ℃, the speed of cloth is 50m/min, tentering is carried out on the mother fabric after the mother fabric passes through a compression roller, and the width of the cloth is controlled to be 110% of that of the wet cloth before tentering; the pre-shrinking and drying process of the mother fabric comprises the following specific steps: controlling the temperature of an oven in a pre-shrinking dryer to be 150 ℃, the speed of the cloth to be 40m/min, the breadth of the cloth to be the breadth of wet cloth before stentering, and then blowing and drying the cloth by an air blower in the oven; the specific process of tentering of the setting machine for the sub-fabrics comprises the following steps: and (3) tentering the scutched sub-fabrics by a setting machine, wherein the temperature of an oven of the setting machine is controlled to be 150 ℃, the speed of the cloth is controlled to be 40m/min, tentering is carried out on the sub-fabrics after the sub-fabrics pass through a compression roller, and the width is controlled to be 120% of the wet width of the cloth before tentering.
The step (1) of pretreating the mother fabric roll is to put the mother fabric into solutions with the concentrations of methyl salicylate, hydrogen peroxide, polyphenol oxidase, penetrant and sodium silicate of 15 g/L, 30 g/L, 2 g/L, 5 g/L and 10 g/L for 20 min.
The present invention is not particularly limited with respect to the type of fabric, and the weaving in the step (1) is a weaving, knitting or non-weaving process.
The present invention is also not particularly limited with respect to the type of the printing and dyeing process, and the dyeing mechanism of the dyeing apparatus in the step (2) is spray dyeing or roll dyeing.
In order to ensure that the feeding and the coiling of the child fabric and the mother fabric are independent, the mother fabric feeding system, the mother dyed fabric coiling system, the child fabric feeding system and the child dyed fabric coiling system are all driven by servo motors.
In order to control the tension and the printing and dyeing depth in the whole processing process, the compression roller in the step (4) is provided with a compression force control device for controlling the compression force for extruding the parent dyed fabric and the child dyed fabric so as to control the amount of the redundant dye extruded.
Adding 25 wt% of reactive dye, 11 wt% of laurylamine polyoxyethylene ether, 3 wt% of titanium dioxide, 8 wt% of ethyl oxalate, 5 wt% of phenylpropanol, 3 wt% of anhydrous sodium sulphate, 15 wt% of paste, 11 wt% of dispersing agent, 2 wt% of defoaming agent and 2 wt% of water wetting agent into the dye in the step (3).
The pretreatment solution also comprises a mixed solvent formed by compounding a first solvent and a second solvent, wherein the first solvent is one or a combination of more of acetone, cyclohexanone, ethyl acetate, ethylene glycol dimethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and propylene glycol methyl ether, and the second solvent is one or a combination of more of ethanol, acetone, diethylene glycol, isopropanol, isobutanol, acetonitrile and N, N-dimethylformamide; the ratio of the first solvent to the second solvent is 1: 5.
Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only used for illustrating the technical solutions of the present invention, and not for limiting the protection scope of the present invention, although the present invention is described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood by those skilled in the art that modifications or equivalent substitutions can be made on the technical solutions of the present invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solutions of the present invention.