CN106420489B - Plant composite sun-screening agent and preparation and application thereof - Google Patents

Plant composite sun-screening agent and preparation and application thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN106420489B
CN106420489B CN201611012698.4A CN201611012698A CN106420489B CN 106420489 B CN106420489 B CN 106420489B CN 201611012698 A CN201611012698 A CN 201611012698A CN 106420489 B CN106420489 B CN 106420489B
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extract
parts
plant composite
sunscreen
reduced pressure
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CN106420489A (en
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吴新星
余汉谋
姜兴涛
王晓莉
黄文烨
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Botton Spices Co ltd
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Dongguan Boton Flavors & Fragrances Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/78Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
    • A61K2800/782Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Biotechnology (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
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  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Medicines Containing Plant Substances (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a plant composite sunscreen agent and preparation and application thereof. The plant composite sunscreen agent disclosed by the invention is compounded by adopting the angelica keiskei koidz extract, the rosa roxburghii tratt extract and the mangosteen pericarp extract according to a certain proportion, can well absorb long-wave ultraviolet rays and medium-wave ultraviolet rays, and has a good sunscreen effect. In addition, the skin whitening cosmetic has good oxidation resistance, can remove free radicals generated by ultraviolet irradiation on human skin, has a certain tyrosinase activity inhibition rate, has a certain whitening effect, and has good cosmetic application potential.

Description

Plant composite sun-screening agent and preparation and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a plant composite sunscreen agent and preparation and application thereof.
Background
Ultraviolet light is a generic term for radiation in the electromagnetic spectrum having wavelengths from 100-400 nm. The ultraviolet rays can be divided into UVA (long-wave ultraviolet ray 320-400 nm), UVB (medium-wave ultraviolet ray 280-320 nm) and UVC (short-wave ultraviolet ray 200-280 nm) according to the wavelength. UVC cannot reach the earth surface due to the blocking of the ozone layer, but UVA and UVB can reach the earth surface through the atmospheric layer, and damage is caused to human skin. UVB can reach the dermis layer, and damage such as sunburn, erythema, blisters and the like can be caused to the skin; UBAs can penetrate the dermis, damage cellular DNA, collagen damage, accelerate skin aging, and even cause skin cancer.
With the deepened understanding of people on ultraviolet rays, the necessity of outdoor sun protection is clear. Currently, the sunscreen products on the market are full of scales, but the sunscreen agents used are physical sunscreen agents such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide ions, chemical sunscreen agents such as p-aminobenzoic acid and esters thereof, salicylate and derivatives thereof, benzophenone and derivatives thereof, and the like. In order to meet the market demand, cosmetic manufacturers need to increase the SPF value and PA grade of the product, and the dosage of the physical sunscreen agent and the chemical sunscreen agent is increased. However, the use of physical and chemical sunscreen agents in large amounts inevitably brings about side effects, such as clogging of pores due to the use of physical sunscreen agents in large amounts, poor photostability of some chemical sunscreen agents, and susceptibility to skin allergy. At present, research on plant sunscreens is promoted, and natural plant sunscreens not only can effectively absorb ultraviolet rays, but also have the effects of whitening, resisting bacteria, diminishing inflammation, resisting oxidation and the like, and have mild effect on skin, small irritation and high safety.
Angelica keiskei Koidzmi is a perennial herb belonging to the family Umbelliferae, and is native to the island of Kyoho, Japan, and is also called Kyoho. The angelica keiskei has strong vitality, can survive and grow continuously all the year round, has high growth speed, and can emerge new leaves in the tomorrow after picking the angelica keiskei today. In Japan, Da He Ben Cao, the leaf of Angelica keiskei has the effects of strengthening body, protecting health and prolonging life. The famous Chinese medicine Li Shizhen is called Bihai Dang Gui in Ben Cao gang mu. The Mingriye is known as 'health food in the 21 st century', and scientific researches show that the Mingriye not only contains various nutrient substances, but also is rich in rare flavone substances such as natural chalcone and the like. Chalcone is a compound containing a diphenyl propenone structure and derivatives thereof, and the compound has strong ultraviolet absorption in the range of 340-390nm of ultraviolet light. Chalcone is contained in higher amount in root, stem and leaf of Angelica keiskei Koidz, wherein the content of root is most abundant.
Rosa roxburghii Tratt is the fruit of filature flower of Rosa plants of Rosaceae. The rosa roxburghii tratt is a special wild plant resource in China, mainly focuses on Guizhou, Yunnan, Sichuan, Guangxi, Hubei and other places in China, wherein the Guizhou resource is the most abundant. Roxburgh rose is a natural plant used as both medicine and food, and its fruit flesh is crisp, sweet and sour, and is accepted in Ben Cao gang mu and Chinese medicine dictionary. The Rosa roxburghii fruit is a medicine and food dual-purpose fruit with effects of strengthening body constitution, preventing and treating diseases, and has effects of regulating organism immunity, delaying aging, resisting atherosclerosis and tumor, etc. The vitamin C content of the roxburgh rose fruit is more than 5 times of that of the kiwi fruit, and the roxburgh rose fruit is worthy of being named as the king of vitamin C. Similarly, the rosa roxburghii tratt fruit contains abundant flavonoid compounds with bioactive substances, and the average total flavone content of the rosa roxburghii tratt fruit is 6.80 mg/g, and the highest total flavone content is 8.00 mg/g.
Mangosteen (Garcinia mangostana L.) is the fruit of mangosteen belonging to the genus Garcinia of the family Guttiferae, also known as mangosteen and mangosteen, which is sour in sweet and abnormal in taste, and is known as "behind tropical fruits".
At present, the application of angelica keiskei, rosa roxburghii tratt, mangosteen pericarp and the like in the aspect of sun-screening agents is not seen.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to overcome the defects and shortcomings in the prior art, the invention aims to provide the plant composite sunscreen agent which can realize effective absorption of long-wave ultraviolet rays and medium-wave ultraviolet rays, has a good sunscreen effect, has a very good oxidation resistance, can remove free radicals generated by ultraviolet irradiation on human skin, has a certain tyrosinase activity inhibition rate, and has a certain whitening effect.
The invention also aims to provide a preparation method of the plant composite sun-screening agent, which has the advantages of simple steps, convenient operation and control, stable quality, high production efficiency and low production cost and can be used for large-scale industrial production.
The invention also aims to provide application of the plant composite sunscreen agent, and the plant composite sunscreen agent can be used for various sunscreen cosmetics.
The purpose of the invention is realized by the following technical scheme: a plant composite sunscreen agent is prepared by compounding Angelica keiskei Koidz extract, Rosa roxburghii extract and mangosteen pericarp extract.
The weight ratio of the angelica keiskei extract to the rosa roxburghii tratt extract to the mangosteen pericarp extract is (3-4): (2-4): (3-4).
The angelica keiskei koidzumi extract is obtained by drying and crushing angelica keiskei koidzumi, soaking in an organic solvent, extracting, filtering, decompressing, concentrating and extracting or purifying by resin.
The Rosa roxburghii extract is prepared by pulverizing Rosa roxburghii, soaking in organic solvent, extracting, filtering, concentrating under reduced pressure, and extracting or purifying with resin.
The mangosteen pericarp extract is obtained by drying and crushing mangosteen pericarp, soaking in an organic solvent, extracting, filtering, decompressing, concentrating, and extracting or purifying with resin.
The organic solvent is ethanol water solution, and the volume fraction of ethanol in the ethanol water solution is 50-80%.
The resin is AB-8 macroporous resin.
The angelica keiskei extract has strong absorption in the range of 400nm of ultraviolet light 340-; the rosa roxburghii tratt extract has strong absorption in the range of ultraviolet light 300-350 nm; the mangosteen pericarp extract has strong absorption in the range of ultraviolet light 280-300 nm.
The other purpose of the invention is realized by the following technical scheme: a preparation method of plant composite sunscreen comprises mixing Angelica keiskei Koidz extract, fructus Rosae Normalis extract and cortex Garciniae extract at a weight ratio of (3-4): (2-4): (3-4) mixing uniformly to obtain the plant composite sun-screening agent.
The invention also aims to realize the following technical scheme: an application of plant composite sunscreen in cosmetics is provided.
The invention has the beneficial effects that: the plant composite sunscreen agent disclosed by the invention is compounded by adopting the angelica keiskei koidz extract, the rosa roxburghii tratt extract and the mangosteen pericarp extract according to a certain proportion, can well absorb long-wave ultraviolet rays and medium-wave ultraviolet rays, and has a good sunscreen effect. In addition, the skin whitening cosmetic has good oxidation resistance, can remove free radicals generated by ultraviolet irradiation on human skin, has a certain tyrosinase activity inhibition rate, has a certain whitening effect, and has good cosmetic application potential.
The plant composite sunscreen agent can effectively remove free radicals and inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, can be used as an active ingredient to be added into cosmetics, and each active ingredient can provide one or more than one effect.
The preparation method has the advantages of simple steps, convenient operation and control, stable quality, high production efficiency and low production cost, and can be used for large-scale industrial production.
The plant composite sunscreen agent can be used for various sunscreen cosmetics, and different dosage can be added according to the type and the requirement of the preparation.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be further described with reference to the following examples for facilitating understanding of those skilled in the art, and the description of the embodiments is not intended to limit the present invention.
Example 1
Preparation method of plant composite sun-screening agent
Sun drying radix Artemisiae Argyi, pulverizing, adding 70% ethanol solution, ultrasonic extracting for 1 hr, filtering, concentrating under reduced pressure, adsorbing with AB-8 macroporous resin and eluting with organic solvent, and concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain folium Artemisiae Argyi extract.
Drying fructus Rosae Normalis in the sun, pulverizing, adding 80% ethanol solution, ultrasonic extracting for 1 hr, filtering, concentrating under reduced pressure, adsorbing with AB-8 macroporous resin and eluting with organic solvent, and concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain fructus Rosae Normalis extract.
Sun drying cortex Garciniae, pulverizing, adding 80% ethanol solution, ultrasonic treating for 30min, leaching overnight, filtering, concentrating under reduced pressure, dissolving the extract in water, extracting with ethyl acetate, and concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain cortex Garciniae extract.
Mixing the angelica keiskei koidzumi extract, the roxburgh rose extract and the mangosteen pericarp extract according to the mass ratio of 4:2:4 or 3:3:4 to prepare the plant composite sunscreen agent.
Example 2
Ultraviolet absorption test of plant composite sunscreen agent: preparing a sunscreen cream matrix, adding the prepared plant composite sunscreen agent into the sunscreen cream matrix according to the proportion of 10%, and measuring the SPF value and the PA critical wavelength of the plant composite sunscreen agent by a sun protection index tester SPF-290S.
The specific formula of the sunscreen cream is as follows (w/%): 6.0 parts of stearic acid, 6.0 parts of glycerol, 4.0 parts of cetyl alcohol, 3.0 parts of octyl palmitate, 2.0 parts of glyceryl stearate, 2.0 parts of lanolin, 1.0 part of polyethylene glycol (40) stearate, 1.0 part of polydimethylsiloxane, 2.0 parts of lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, 2.0 parts of olive oil, 0.5 part of acrylic copolymer, 1.5 parts of triethanolamine, 10 parts of plant composite sun-screening agent and 59 parts of deionized water.
Taking 3M adhesive tape as a bracket, and putting the sample at a ratio of 1mg/cm2The sunscreen cream is uniformly smeared on a tape, and the SPF value and the PA critical wavelength of the plant composite sunscreen are measured by taking a sunscreen cream matrix without the plant composite sunscreen, and the experimental result is shown in table 1.
TABLE 1 UV absorption of plant composite sunscreens
Sample (I) SPF value Critical wavelength of PA
4:2:4 7.8 352 nm
3:3:4 8.3 364 nm
As can be seen from Table 1, the plant composite sunscreen agent prepared by the invention has good absorption of long-wave ultraviolet rays and medium-wave ultraviolet rays.
Example 3
Antioxidant capacity test of the plant composite sunscreen:
1) FRAP method-Total Oxidation resistance test
The principle is as follows: the principle of the FRAP method for determining the total antioxidant capacity is that under the acidic condition, the antioxidant can reduce ferri-tripyridyltrizaine (Fe)3+TPTZ) produces Fe in blue2+TPTZ, followed by determination of blue Fe by absorbance2+TPTZ is the total antioxidant capacity of the sample.
The test method comprises the following steps: dissolving plant composite sunscreen agent in DMSO to prepare 1mM solution, reacting with FRAP reagent under acidic condition for 30min, measuring its absorbance at 597 nm, and taking 1mM Vc as positive control, with the experimental results shown in Table 2.
TABLE 2 FRAP method-Total Oxidation resistance test
Sample (I) FRAP value
1 mM Vc 1.59
4:2:4 6.72
3:3:4 6.56
As can be seen from Table 2, the plant composite sunscreen agent prepared by the invention has very good total oxidation resistance.
2) DPPH radical scavenging
The principle is as follows: the DPPH radical scavenging method is widely used for quantitatively determining the antioxidant capacity of biological samples and foods. According to the fact that DPPH free radicals have single electrons, a methanol solution of the DPPH free radicals is purple, and the DPPH free radicals have strong absorption at about 517 nm. When the free radical scavenger exists, the free radical scavenger is paired with a single electron of DPPH free radical to ensure that the absorption peak of the free radical at about 517nm gradually disappears, and then the scavenging capacity of the tested object on DPPH free radical can be evaluated through absorbance value measurement.
The test method comprises the following steps: the plant composite sunscreen agent is dissolved by methanol to prepare a 1mM solution, then a methanol solution of DPPH is added, the absorbance of the reaction system at 517nm is measured, and the experimental result is shown in Table 3.
TABLE 3 DPPH radical scavenging
Sample (I) DPPH clearance rate
1 mM Vc 83%
4:2:4 96%
3:3:4 97%
As can be seen from Table 3, the plant composite sunscreen agent prepared by the invention has very good free radical scavenging capability.
Example 4
The whitening effect test of the plant composite sunscreen agent comprises the following steps:
melanin exists in human skin and is a polymer formed by binding various indole compounds produced by reaction of tyrosine. Tyrosine is oxidized by tyrosinase and metabolized into dopa, which is further metabolized into dopaquinone, which is further converted and polymerized into melanin. Tyrosine is oxidatively metabolized to dopa, further dopaquinone is the rate-controlling stage of melanin synthesis, and therefore inhibition of melanin synthesis is the most important to control tyrosinase activity. The evaluation of the tyrosinase activity inhibition rate can effectively evaluate the whitening effect of the tested object.
The test method comprises the following steps: l-dopa is used as a substrate, tyrosinase is used for catalyzing reaction, a plant compound sunscreen agent is added, the promotion or inhibition effect of the plant compound sunscreen agent on the reaction is judged by measuring the light absorption value of a reaction system at 475 nm, 1mM Vc is used as a positive control, and the experimental result is shown in Table 4.
TABLE 4 tyrosinase activity inhibition
Sample (I) Inhibition rate of tyrosinase activity
1 mM Vc 94.8%
4:2:4 52.6%
3:3:4 58.4%
As can be seen from Table 4, the plant composite sunscreen agent prepared by the invention has very good tyrosinase activity inhibition rate and certain whitening effect.
Through the tests, the composition of the angelica keiskei extract, the rosa roxburghii tratt extract and the mangosteen pericarp extract according to a certain proportion can well absorb long-wave ultraviolet rays and medium-wave ultraviolet rays, and has a good sun-screening effect. In addition, the skin whitening cosmetic has good oxidation resistance, can remove free radicals generated by ultraviolet irradiation on human skin, has a certain tyrosinase activity inhibition rate, has a certain whitening effect, and has good cosmetic application potential.
The above-described embodiments are preferred implementations of the present invention, and the present invention may be implemented in other ways without departing from the spirit of the present invention.

Claims (4)

1. A preparation method of a plant composite sun-screening agent is characterized by comprising the following steps: mixing the angelica keiskei koidzumi extract, the roxburgh rose extract and the mangosteen pericarp extract according to the mass ratio of 4:2:4 or 3:3:4 to prepare a plant composite sunscreen agent;
the angelica keiskei extract is prepared by the following steps: sun drying radix Artemisiae Argyi, pulverizing, adding 70% ethanol solution, ultrasonic extracting for 1 hr, filtering, concentrating under reduced pressure, adsorbing with AB-8 macroporous resin and eluting with organic solvent, and concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain folium Artemisiae Argyi extract;
the roxburgh rose extract is prepared by the following steps: sun drying fructus Rosae Normalis, pulverizing, adding 80% ethanol solution, ultrasonic extracting for 1 hr, filtering, concentrating under reduced pressure, adsorbing with AB-8 macroporous resin and eluting with organic solvent, and concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain fructus Rosae Normalis extract;
the mangosteen pericarp extract is prepared by the following steps: sun drying cortex Garciniae, pulverizing, adding 80% ethanol solution, ultrasonic treating for 30min, leaching overnight, filtering, concentrating under reduced pressure, dissolving the extract in water, extracting with ethyl acetate, and concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain cortex Garciniae extract.
2. The method for preparing a plant composite sunscreen agent according to claim 1, wherein: the angelica keiskei extract has strong absorption in the range of 400nm of ultraviolet light 340-; the rosa roxburghii tratt extract has strong absorption in the range of ultraviolet light 300-350 nm; the mangosteen pericarp extract has strong absorption in the range of ultraviolet light 280-300 nm.
3. Use of a plant composite sunscreen according to any of claims 1 to 2 in cosmetics.
4. The use of a plant composite sunscreen according to claim 3 in cosmetics, wherein: the cosmetic is sunscreen cream which comprises the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 6.0 parts of stearic acid, 6.0 parts of glycerol, 4.0 parts of cetyl alcohol, 3.0 parts of octyl palmitate, 2.0 parts of glyceryl stearate, 2.0 parts of lanolin, 1.0 part of polyethylene glycol (40) stearate, 1.0 part of polydimethylsiloxane, 2.0 parts of lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, 2.0 parts of olive oil, 0.5 part of acrylic copolymer, 1.5 parts of triethanolamine, 10 parts of plant composite sun-screening agent and 59 parts of deionized water.
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CN109875926A (en) * 2017-12-06 2019-06-14 贵州四季常青药业有限公司 A kind of plant binchotan deep layer skin cleaning mask and preparation method thereof
CN114392214A (en) * 2021-12-24 2022-04-26 赤峰福纳康生物技术有限公司 Extraction method and application of mangosteen effective part

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CN103142663A (en) * 2013-03-20 2013-06-12 桂林师范高等专科学校 Method for extracting coumarins extract from angelica keiskei and product and application of extract
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JPS60209509A (en) * 1984-04-02 1985-10-22 Sansho Seiyaku Kk Whitening cosmetic
CN102365090A (en) * 2009-03-31 2012-02-29 罗蒂株式会社 Composition for treatment and/or prevention of dermatopathy
CN103142663A (en) * 2013-03-20 2013-06-12 桂林师范高等专科学校 Method for extracting coumarins extract from angelica keiskei and product and application of extract
CN104664527A (en) * 2015-03-07 2015-06-03 日照市诚德仁传媒有限公司 Composition with effects of preventing and resisting cancer, resisting radiation and eliminating heavy metals in bodies

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