CN106109268A - 一种美白精华晚霜及其制备方法 - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种美白精华晚霜及其制备方法。一种美白精华晚霜,包括以下主要组分:3‑o‑乙基抗坏血酸1~4%,木瓜蛋白酶1~4%,红没药醇0.1~0.4%,透明质酸钠0.005~0.015%,黄原胶0.1~0.4%。本发明制成的晚霜,具有美白、保湿、抗皱等功效。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及化妆品领域,尤其涉及一种美白精华晚霜及其制备方法。
背景技术
夜晚,是生理机能自律调护的休息阶段,这时候最需要的就是滋养肌肤,加速细胞的新陈代谢,修护肌肤白天受到的损害,补充营养,让肌肤变得更有弹性,更加细腻。所以晚霜应运而生,晚霜的活性成分较高,质地也比较滋润,并具有保湿、修护、美白、抗衰老、紧致、营养滋润六大功效。美容专家说,“睡美人”的说法绝对是正确的。白天,皮肤在恶劣的环境中进行新陈代谢,它最大的敌人就是阳光、脏空气、污染物对它的侵蚀。而晚上则不同了,根据皮肤学专家及皮肤病理学家们长期观察研究发现,晚上11点至凌晨5点是皮肤细胞生长和修复最旺盛的时候,这时候细胞分裂的速度比平时快8倍左右,因而对护肤、滋养品的吸收率特别高。
《一种保湿抗皱晚霜及其制备方法》(申请公布号CN105078840A),公开了一种保湿抗皱晚霜,利用多种中草药提取物实现了保湿抗皱的效果,但是并未提及其美白效果;《减少黑色素沉积的美白焕肤晚霜及其制备方法》(申请公布号CN104825379A),公开了一种美白焕肤晚霜,可以减少黑色素的沉积,无刺激、效果好,但其所用到的原料药较多,且制作工艺繁琐。针对上述问题,本发明公开了一种兼具美白保湿和抗皱功能的面霜,给肌肤更好的保养。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种具有美白保湿及抗皱美白精华晚霜。
本发明的另一目的是提供上述晚霜的制备方法。
本发明的晚霜,由以下质量百分比的物质组成:
C14-22醇/C12-20烷基葡糖苷1~5%,甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯1~5%,鲸蜡硬脂醇1~5%,聚二甲基硅氧烷1~5%,辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯2~6%,肉豆蔻酸异丙酯2~6%,月桂氮卓酮0.5~2%,角鲨烷1~4%,生育酚0.2~0.8%,透明质酸钠0.005~0.015%,黄原胶0.1~0.4%,甘油5~10%,丙二醇5~10%,聚丙烯酰胺/C13-14异链烷烃/月桂醇聚醚-70.1~0.3%,聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚二甲基硅氧烷醇0.5~1.5%,3-o-乙基抗坏血酸1~4%,木瓜蛋白酶1~4%,红没药醇0.1~0.4%,丙二醇/双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲/碘丙炔醇丁基氨甲酸酯0.1~0.4%,对羟基苯乙酮0.2~0.8%,1,2-己二醇0.1~0.5%,余量为去离子水。
上述晚霜的制备方法包括如下步骤:
1)将C14-22醇/C12-20烷基葡糖苷,甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯,鲸蜡硬脂醇,聚二甲基硅氧烷,辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯,肉豆蔻酸异丙酯,月桂氮卓酮,角鲨烷,生育酚混合作为A相投入油相锅加热至80度,搅拌溶解完全后保温待用;
2)将透明质酸钠,黄原胶,甘油,丙二醇,去离子水混合作为B相加入水相锅中加热至80度,搅拌溶解完全后保温待用;
3)将乳化锅预热至60-65度,搅拌速度45转/分钟,先将B相抽入,再将A相抽入,保温搅拌10分钟;均质3分钟;
4)乳化锅降温至55度后将C相加入,均质3分钟,真空保温15分钟。所述C相为聚丙烯酰胺/C13-14异链烷烃/月桂醇聚醚-7,聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚二甲基硅氧烷醇;
5)降温至45度依此加入D、E相,保温搅拌10分钟,搅拌速度35转/分钟,最后加入F相,保温10-20分钟。所述D相为3-o-乙基抗坏血酸,所述E相为木瓜蛋白酶,所述F相为红没药醇,丙二醇/双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲/碘丙炔醇丁基氨甲酸酯,对羟基苯乙酮,1,2-己二醇。
6)搅拌降温至40度出料。
下面对本发明中的主要功效成分进行介绍:
1)3-o-乙基抗坏血酸,别名维生素C乙基醚,是一种亲油的水溶性维生素C衍生物,容易穿透角质层进入真皮层,进入皮肤后易被生物酶分解而发挥维C的作用,从而提高其生物利用度。不仅如此,维生素C乙基醚相对普通的维生素C还显示出极高的稳定性。其通过抑制酪氨酸酶的Cu2+活性,可以阻断黑色素的形成;防止日光引起的皮肤炎症;改善皮肤色泽,促进胶原蛋白产生,增加皮肤弹性。
2)透明质酸钠,具有特殊的保水作用,份量高达其本身重量的100倍,是目前发现的自然界中保湿性最好的物质,被称为理想的天然保湿因子。它可以改善皮肤营养代谢,使皮肤柔嫩、光滑、去皱、增加弹性、防止衰老,在保湿的同时又是良好的透皮吸收促进剂。与其他营养成分配合使用,可以起到促进营养吸收的更理想效果。
3)木瓜蛋白酶,简称木瓜酶,又称为木瓜酵素。是利用未成熟的番木瓜果实中的乳汁,采用现代生物工程技术提炼而成的纯天然生物酶制品。它是一种含疏基肽链内切酶,具有蛋白酶和酯酶的活性,有较广泛的特异性,对动植物蛋白、多肽、酯、酰胺等有较强的水解能力,同时,还具有合成功能,能把蛋白水解物合成为类蛋白质。溶于水和甘油,水溶液无色或淡黄色,有时呈乳白色;几乎不溶于乙醇、氯仿和乙醚等有机溶剂。最适合PH值5.7(一般3~9.5皆可),在中性或偏酸性时亦有作用,等电点18.75;最适合温度55~60℃(一般10~85℃皆可),耐热性强,在90℃时也不会完全失活;受氧化剂抑制,还原性物质激活。将木瓜蛋白酶加入到含有蛋白质和油脂的化妆品中,具有独特的美白嫩肤、美颜保健、祛斑除污垢、促进血液循环、改善肌肤等功效,提高产品档次。
本发明的晚霜以木瓜蛋白酶、3-o-乙基抗坏血酸为主要功效成分,并与其他组份按照特定的比例复配形成晚霜,各功效组份中所含有的有效成分互补、协同、配合,得到了更合理高效的利用。使本晚霜具有以下有益效果:
具体的,一方面,3-o-乙基抗坏血酸穿透角质层进入真皮层,有效阻断黑色素形成,另一方面,木瓜蛋白酶作用于人体皮肤上的老化角质层,促使其退化、分解、去除,促进皮肤新陈代谢。达到很好的抗皱效果,同时,本晚霜中还包含可以修复肌肤损伤、补水保湿的透明质酸钠,可以补充肌底水分,有助于减缓皮肤络氨酸酶活性,生育酚可修复皮肤,使肌肤屏障功能健康,抵御外界对皮肤的伤害。通过以上各组分的共同作用,使本发明的晚霜在抑制黑色素形成、滋白肌肤的同时,还可以修复肌肤损伤,抗皱抗衰老。
具体实施方式
制备方法:
1)将C14-22醇/C12-20烷基葡糖苷,甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯,鲸蜡硬脂醇,聚二甲基硅氧烷,辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯,肉豆蔻酸异丙酯,月桂氮卓酮,角鲨烷,生育酚混合作为A相投入油相锅加热至80度,搅拌溶解完全后保温待用;
2)将透明质酸钠,黄原胶,甘油,丙二醇、去离子水混合作为B相加入水相锅中加热至80度,搅拌溶解完全后保温待用;
3)将乳化锅预热至60-65度,搅拌速度45转/分钟,先将B相抽入,再将A相抽入,保温搅拌10分钟;均质3分钟;
4)乳化锅降温至55度后将C相加入,均质3分钟,真空保温15分钟。所述C相为聚丙烯酰胺/C13-14异链烷烃/月桂醇聚醚-7,聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚二甲基硅氧烷醇;
5)降温至45度依此加入D、E相,保温搅拌10分钟,搅拌速度35转/分钟,最后加入F相,保温10-20分钟。所述D相为3-o-乙基抗坏血酸,所述E相为木瓜蛋白酶,所述F相为红没药醇,丙二醇/双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲/碘丙炔醇丁基氨甲酸酯,对羟基苯乙酮,1,2-己二醇。
6)搅拌降温至40度出料。
实施例1
C14-22醇/C12-20烷基葡糖苷1%,甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯1%,鲸蜡硬脂醇1%,聚二甲基硅氧烷1%,辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯2%,肉豆蔻酸异丙酯2%,月桂氮卓酮0.5%,角鲨烷1%,生育酚0.2%,透明质酸钠0.005%,黄原胶0.1%,甘油5%,丙二醇5%,聚丙烯酰胺/C13-14异链烷烃/月桂醇聚醚-70.1%,聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚二甲基硅氧烷醇0.5%,3-o-乙基抗坏血酸1%,木瓜蛋白酶1%,红没药醇0.1%,丙二醇/双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲/碘丙炔醇丁基氨甲酸酯0.1%,对羟基苯乙酮0.2%,1,2-己二醇0.1%,余量为去离子水。
实施例2
C14-22醇/C12-20烷基葡糖苷5%,甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯5%,鲸蜡硬脂醇5%,聚二甲基硅氧烷5%,辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯6%,肉豆蔻酸异丙酯6%,月桂氮卓酮2%,角鲨烷4%,生育酚0.8%,透明质酸钠0.015%,黄原胶0.4%,甘油10%,丙二醇10%,聚丙烯酰胺/C13-14异链烷烃/月桂醇聚醚-70.3%,聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚二甲基硅氧烷醇1.5%,3-o-乙基抗坏血酸4%,木瓜蛋白酶4%,红没药醇0.4%,丙二醇/双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲/碘丙炔醇丁基氨甲酸酯0.4%,对羟基苯乙酮0.8%,1,2-己二醇0.5%,余量为去离子水。
实施例3
C14-22醇/C12-20烷基葡糖苷2%,甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯2%,鲸蜡硬脂醇2%,聚二甲基硅氧烷2%,辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯4%,肉豆蔻酸异丙酯4%,月桂氮卓酮1%,角鲨烷2%,生育酚0.5%,透明质酸钠0.01%,黄原胶0.2%,甘油8%,丙二醇8%,聚丙烯酰胺/C13-14异链烷烃/月桂醇聚醚-70.2%,聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚二甲基硅氧烷醇1%,3-o-乙基抗坏血酸2%,木瓜蛋白酶2%,红没药醇0.2%,丙二醇/双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲/碘丙炔醇丁基氨甲酸酯0.2%,对羟基苯乙酮0.5%,1,2-己二醇0.2%,余量为去离子水。
对比例1
C14-22醇/C12-20烷基葡糖苷2%,甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯2%,鲸蜡硬脂醇2%,聚二甲基硅氧烷2%,辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯4%,肉豆蔻酸异丙酯4%,月桂氮卓酮1%,角鲨烷2%,生育酚0.5%,透明质酸钠0.01%,黄原胶0.2%,甘油8%,丙二醇8%,聚丙烯酰胺/C13-14异链烷烃/月桂醇聚醚-70.2%,聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚二甲基硅氧烷醇1%,木瓜蛋白酶2%,红没药醇0.2%,丙二醇/双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲/碘丙炔醇丁基氨甲酸酯0.2%,对羟基苯乙酮0.5%,1,2-己二醇0.2%,余量为去离子水。
对比例2
C14-22醇/C12-20烷基葡糖苷2%,甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯2%,鲸蜡硬脂醇2%,聚二甲基硅氧烷2%,辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯4%,肉豆蔻酸异丙酯4%,月桂氮卓酮1%,角鲨烷2%,生育酚0.5%,透明质酸钠0.01%,黄原胶0.2%,甘油8%,丙二醇8%,聚丙烯酰胺/C13-14异链烷烃/月桂醇聚醚-70.2%,聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚二甲基硅氧烷醇1%,3-o-乙基抗坏血酸2%,红没药醇0.2%,丙二醇/双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲/碘丙炔醇丁基氨甲酸酯0.2%,对羟基苯乙酮0.5%,1,2-己二醇0.2%,余量为去离子水。
实验过程:
1)补水保湿效果评价
根据化妆品成分吸湿、保湿性能的差异,不同的保湿剂分子对水分子的作用力不同,吸收水分和保持水分的能力不同。油份对水分有封闭作用,可防止水分的散失。吸湿作用力大的,对水分子结合力强,吸收和保持水分的量也比较大,封闭性好的,水分散失的也少。利用胶带模仿角质层、表皮等的生物材料,在胶带上涂布化妆品,模拟实际化妆品的应用状况。在恒温恒湿的条件下一定时间后,称量样品放置前后的质量差,求出样品量的损失,可以计算出保湿成分保湿的效果。通过对比,分析评价实施例1~3和对比例1~2制得的晚霜的补水保湿效果。
实验材料
7.5×7.5cm干净玻璃板若干块,3M胶布,50~500μl移液枪,分析天平,醋酸钾【KC2H3O2】饱和溶液相对湿度约60%,万分之一天平。
实验方法和测试步骤
(1)称量6块贴有3M胶布的玻璃板重量(M0),分别记录,3块为空白对照,3块为样品试验。
(2)用移液枪取200μl样品滴加于贴有3M胶布的玻璃板上,用分析天平称量该重量M1(精确到0.0001g),将样品涂匀,将玻璃板放入要求的恒定湿度的干燥器,重复3次。将其余3块空白对照玻璃板一起放入恒定湿度的干燥器中。
(3)在放置4h、8h后,取出玻璃板,称量该玻璃板重量(M2),测试其保湿率及相对湿度率,称量后马上放入恒定湿度的干燥器
(4)本试验的注意事项:涂抹样品时要尽量均匀,不能有样品遗留在涂抹器上。将样品取出称量及放入,一个干燥器控制在用15min之内,平均1块玻璃板用1min。控制时间是由于样品暴露于外环境其水分散失非常快,会严重影响测试结果。玻璃板取出后立即倒置在预先准备好的空白玻璃板上,称量时也倒置在天平内的容器
(5)保湿率计算公式:
保湿率=(M2–M0)/(M1–M0)×100%
M0:空板质量/g
M1:加样后玻璃板质量/g
M2:干燥器中放置若干小时后质量/g
测试了其在相对湿度为60%时4h及8h内保湿率。
实验结果
从表1中可以看出,实施例1~3保湿效果要明显优于对比例1~2,即本发明中3-o-乙基抗坏血酸和木瓜蛋白酶两种功效成分的复配协同使整个产品有着良好的保湿性能。
表1晚霜在RH60%的保湿率
t/h | 实1 | 实1 | 实1 | 对1 | 对2 |
4 | 31.23 | 34.43 | 36.75 | 24.02 | 22.21 |
8 | 30.85 | 34.54 | 36.18 | 25.59 | 21.56 |
2)美白抗皱效果测试
试用对象:每个实施例制备的晚霜试用对象为年龄25-35岁的女性100名。
使用方法:使用周期为2个月,每天晚上洁面后取适量均匀涂于面部,轻轻按摩至吸收。
使用效果数据见下表:
效果 | 实施例1 | 实施例2 | 实施例3 | 对比例1 | 对比例2 |
面部明显滋润 | 99 | 99 | 98 | 98 | 97 |
面部肌肤紧致,有弹性 | 96 | 97 | 94 | 85 | 15 |
暗沉减少、皮肤有光泽 | 95 | 94 | 89 | 26 | 94 |
无明显变化 | 1 | 2 | 1 | 2 | 1 |
试用后,均未发现刺激性及过敏现象。
从表中可知,实施例1~3制得的晚霜治疗效果明显高于对比例1~2制得的晚霜的治疗效果,对比例1的抗皱效果较好,而美白的表现则较差,对比例2的抗皱效果相比于实施例1~3要逊色不少。由此可知,3-o-乙基抗坏血酸的美白功能和木瓜蛋白酶的抗皱功能明显,只有在两种成分均有的情况下,所制得的晚霜才具有良好的美白保湿及抗皱效果。
以上所述实施例仅表达了本发明的几种实施方式,其描述较为具体和详细,但并不能因此而理解为对本发明专利范围的限制。应当指出的是,对于本领域的普通技术人员来说,在不脱离本发明构思的前提下,还可以做出若干变形和改进,这些都属于本发明的保护范围。
Claims (4)
1.一种美白精华晚霜,其特特征在于,所述美白精华晚霜由以下成分组成:C14-22醇/C12-20烷基葡糖苷1~5%,甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯1~5%,鲸蜡硬脂醇1~5%,聚二甲基硅氧烷1~5%,辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯2~6%,肉豆蔻酸异丙酯2~6%,月桂氮卓酮0.5~2%,角鲨烷1~4%,生育酚0.2~0.8%,透明质酸钠0.005~0.015%,黄原胶0.1~0.4%,甘油5~10%,丙二醇5~10%,聚丙烯酰胺/C13-14异链烷烃/月桂醇聚醚-70.1~0.3%,聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚二甲基硅氧烷醇0.5~1.5%,3-o-乙基抗坏血酸1~4%,木瓜蛋白酶1~4%,红没药醇0.1~0.4%,丙二醇/双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲/碘丙炔醇丁基氨甲酸酯0.02~0.05%,对羟基苯乙酮0.2~0.8%,1,2-己二醇0.1~0.5%,余量为去离子水。
2.根据权利要求1所述的美白精华晚霜,其特征在于,所述美白精华晚霜由以下成分组成:C14-22醇/C12-20烷基葡糖苷2~4%,甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯2~5%,鲸蜡硬脂醇3~4%,聚二甲基硅氧烷2~4%,辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯3~5%,肉豆蔻酸异丙酯3~5%,月桂氮卓酮0.8~1.5%,角鲨烷2~3%,生育酚0.3~0.6%,透明质酸钠0.008~0.012%,黄原胶0.2~0.3%,甘油6~9%,丙二醇6~9%,聚丙烯酰胺/C13-14异链烷烃/月桂醇聚醚-70.2~0.28%,聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚二甲基硅氧烷醇0.8~1.2%,3-o-乙基抗坏血酸2~3%,木瓜蛋白酶2~3%,红没药醇0.2~0.3%,丙二醇/双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲/碘丙炔醇丁基氨甲酸酯0.03~0.04%,对羟基苯乙酮0.4~0.6%,1,2-己二醇0.3~0.4%,余量为去离子水。
3.根据权利要求2所述的美白精华晚霜,其特征在于,所述美白精华晚霜由以下成分组成:C14-22醇/C12-20烷基葡糖苷2%,甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯2%,鲸蜡硬脂醇2%,聚二甲基硅氧烷2%,辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯4%,肉豆蔻酸异丙酯4%,月桂氮卓酮1%,角鲨烷2%,生育酚0.5%,透明质酸钠0.01%,黄原胶0.2%,甘油8%,丙二醇8%,聚丙烯酰胺/C13-14异链烷烃/月桂醇聚醚-70.2%,聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚二甲基硅氧烷醇1%,3-o-乙基抗坏血酸2%,木瓜蛋白酶2%,红没药醇0.2%,丙二醇/双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲/碘丙炔醇丁基氨甲酸酯0.03%,对羟基苯乙酮0.5%,1,2-己二醇0.2%,余量为去离子水。
4.权利要求1至3任一项所述的美白精华晚霜的制备方法,其特征在于包括如下步骤:
1)将C14-22醇/C12-20烷基葡糖苷,甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯,鲸蜡硬脂醇,聚二甲基硅氧烷,辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯,肉豆蔻酸异丙酯,月桂氮卓酮,角鲨烷,生育酚混合作为A相投入油相锅加热至80度,搅拌溶解完全后保温待用;
2)将透明质酸钠,黄原胶,甘油,丙二醇、去离子水混合作为B相加入水相锅中加热至80度,搅拌溶解完全后保温待用;
3)将乳化锅预热至60-65度,搅拌速度45转/分钟,先将B相抽入,再将A相抽入,保温搅拌10分钟;均质3分钟;
4)乳化锅降温至55度后将C相加入,均质3分钟,真空保温15分钟。所述C相为聚丙烯酰胺/C13-14异链烷烃/月桂醇聚醚-7,聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚二甲基硅氧烷醇;
5)降温至45度依此加入D、E相,保温搅拌10分钟,搅拌速度35转/分钟,最后加入F相,保温10-20分钟。所述D相为3-o-乙基抗坏血酸,所述E相为木瓜蛋白酶,所述F相为红没药醇,丙二醇/双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲/碘丙炔醇丁基氨甲酸酯,对羟基苯乙酮,1,2-己二醇。
6)搅拌降温至40度出料。
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