CN105476142B - Platemaking method of customized tailored suit - Google Patents
Platemaking method of customized tailored suit Download PDFInfo
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- CN105476142B CN105476142B CN201510813948.3A CN201510813948A CN105476142B CN 105476142 B CN105476142 B CN 105476142B CN 201510813948 A CN201510813948 A CN 201510813948A CN 105476142 B CN105476142 B CN 105476142B
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- masterplate
- human body
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
- A41H3/04—Making patterns by modelling on the human body
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Processing Or Creating Images (AREA)
- Display Devices Of Pinball Game Machines (AREA)
Abstract
Disclosed is a platemaking method of a customized tailored suit. The platemaking method includes: according to actual measured size of a human body, taking a standard grain line as a center to make a half front piece, a half rear piece, a half side piece, a half sleeve big piece and a half sleeve small piece of a standard template; taking the five templates of the standard template as a basis to determine an intersection point of a vertical central line between the outermost left side and the outermost right side of each template and a horizontal cross line of the upper two thirds and the lower one third of the outermost upper side and the outermost lower side of the corresponding template as a central point; making following correction according forward-inclining human bodies and backward-leaning human bodies, namely for the forward-inclining human bodies, taking the central point of each template as a center and the vertical central line as a straight line, under the premise of maintaining size of each template of the standard template unchanged, synchronously inclining forward by an inclination angle not larger than 13 degrees to form a template which is a clothes making template for human bodies with forward-inclining features; for human bodies with backward-leaning features.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of method for platemaking of customization zoarium Western-style clothes, belongs to Western-style clothes custom technology field.
Background technology
With the improvement of people's living standards, the demand of high-grade suit is increasing, requirement of the customer to its quality
More and more higher, during customization Western-style clothes, how to allow different statures and build customer, in particular for different shape
Customer to put on the Western-style clothes of zoarium be target that current Western-style clothes customization enterprise is pursued.
The stature and build of people is had nothing in common with each other, but they can be determined with throughput size, but even identical
Stature and build human body, because which is in the Western-style clothes that different forms put on same size size, can also produce not fit
Phenomenon, its reason are that common Western-style clothes customization is upright in form perpendicular to the ground in human body 1, and we can be referred to as
The vertical line perpendicular to ground claims by ankle point 2, hip point 3 and shoulder point 4 for the morphological characteristic of standardized human body, wherein people's body side surface
Be fibre line 5, as shown in Figure 1.
Normal plate-making is making after throughput body dimension：/ 2nd anters, 1/2nd rear panels, 1/2nd
Lateral plate, 1/2nd sleeve sheets and 1/2nd sleeve small pieces.But the human body of different statures and build is because of all ages and classes, different
Work and living environment, define different human figure features, or are also actual aspectual character, specifically include human body upper body
Two kinds of proclined and human body upper body layback type.
Fig. 2 show the human body of proclined aspectual character, what ankle point 2, the hip point 3 and shoulder point 4 of wherein human body were linked to be
Turn forward, the deviate silk of standard of straight line 6 engraves line 5, and at this moment, 1 relative morphological characteristic standard of human body occurs following change：Anterior contracting
The elongation of short, rear portion, cervical region reach, the reach of shoulder point；When one is worn according to the customized Western-style clothes of standard type, just
Overgrown situation occurs, particularly as be before western-style clothes it is oversize, behind arch after it is too short, can produce including cervical region and shoulder
Not fit phenomenon.
Fig. 3 show the human body of layback type aspectual character, what ankle point 2, the hip point 3 and shoulder point 4 of wherein human body were linked to be
Straight line 6 engraves line 5 to the silk of standard of swinging back, be rearwardly offset from, and at this time, human body relative standard figure occurs following change：It is anterior
Elongation, rear portion are shortened, and move after cervical region, move after shoulder point；When being through body by one according to the customized Western-style clothes of standardized human body's form
When upper, overgrown situation just occurred, particularly as be before western-style clothes it is too short, behind it is oversize, can produce including cervical region and shoulder
The not fit phenomenon of life.
The content of the invention
It is an object of the invention to overcome the shortcomings of that prior art is present, and provide a kind of main research from human figure
Set out, it is adaptable to which vast customization staff uses, and is easily understood, is easily mastered and implements, it is ensured that different human body actual form
Customer put on the western-style clothes of zoarium, meet various crowds to customizing the method for platemaking of the fit Western-style clothes of customization of Western-style clothes quality requirements.
The purpose of the present invention by following technical solution completing, a kind of method for platemaking of the fit Western-style clothes of customization, institute
The plate-making stated be according to human body actual amount size, centered on standard fibre line make standard edition 1/2nd anters, two
/ mono- rear panel, 1/2nd lateral plates, 1/2nd sleeve sheets and 1/2nd sleeve five pieces of masterplates of small pieces, described method for platemaking
Carry out in accordance with the following steps：
a）Based on five pieces of masterplates of the standard edition, first a central point is determined on 1/2nd anters, in this
Heart point is centered on the neck point of anter top to let droop straight line as vertical reference line, in the intersection point from more than bottom surface 1/4 1/3
Transverse horizontal line be horizontal datum, the intersection point be anter central point；
Then by the base of five pieces of masterplates in same level, with the horizontal datum determined on 1/2nd anters
On the basis of as respective horizontal datum, take central point on the respective waist international standard line of remaining four pieces of masterplate and make vertical line
Horizontal datum is intersected at, determines that joining is respective central point；
b）Following amendment is made respectively according to proclined human body and layback type human body：
One is, the human body of proclined feature, centered on the central point of every piece of masterplate, with vertical center line as straight line,
Under the premise of keeping every piece of masterplate size constancy of standard edition, the masterplate formed by the 9-15 ° of inclination angle that synchronously turns forward is
The clothing masterplate of proclined feature human body；
Two are, the human body of layback type feature, centered on the central point of every piece of masterplate, with vertical center line as straight line,
Under the premise of keeping every piece of masterplate size constancy of standard edition, synchronously tilt backwards the masterplate formed by a 10-15 ° of inclination angle and be
The clothing masterplate of layback type feature human body；
Leaned forward or swing back centrage and standardized human body with actual with human body at the wherein described inclination angle for tilting forward or backward
The angle that fibre line is formed is corresponding.
As preferred：Described step b）In, it is described to be repaiied as follows according to proclined human body and layback type human body respectively
Just：
The human body of proclined feature, centered on the central point of every piece of masterplate, with vertical center line as straight line, is keeping mark
Under the premise of every piece of masterplate size constancy of quasi- version, synchronously turn forward a 9-12 ° of inclination angle, and meets the level of maximum left and right
Displacement is less than 1.5cm, upper and lower maximum perpendicular drop in the masterplate formed less than 2.2cm, as proclined feature
The clothing masterplate of human body；
The human body of layback type feature, centered on the central point of every piece of masterplate, with vertical center line as straight line, is keeping mark
Under the premise of every piece of masterplate size constancy of quasi- version, a 9-12 ° of inclination angle is synchronously tilted backwards, and meets the level of maximum left and right
Displacement is less than 1.5cm, upper and lower maximum perpendicular drop in the masterplate formed less than 2.2cm, as layback type feature
The clothing masterplate of human body.
The present invention develops a kind of suitable vast customization western-style clothes producer and uses mainly from the research of human figure
The fit western-style clothes of customization method for platemaking, it has method simple, practical, it is adaptable to which vast customization staff uses, simply
It is understandable, be easily mastered and implement, it is ensured that the customer of different human body actual form puts on the western-style clothes of zoarium, various crowds are met to fixed
The features such as Western-style clothes quality requirements processed.
Description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is the schematic diagram of human body standard edition fibre line of the present invention.
Fig. 2 is the schematic diagram that proclined human body centrage of the present invention deviates fibre line.
Fig. 3 is the schematic diagram that layback type human body centrage of the present invention deviates fibre line.
Fig. 4 is five large stretch of masterplate shaping schematic view of western-style clothes of proclined human body of the present invention.
Fig. 5 is five large stretch of masterplate shaping schematic view of western-style clothes of layback type human body of the present invention.
Specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with accompanying drawing, the present invention will be described in detail：Fig. 4, shown in 5, a kind of customization of the present invention is fit
The method for platemaking of Western-style clothes, described plate-making are to make standard edition according to human body actual amount size, centered on standard fibre line 5
1/2nd anters 11,1/2nd rear panels 12, the sleeve of 1/2nd lateral plate 13,1/2nd large stretch of 14 and 1/2nd sleeves it is little
15 5 pieces of masterplates of piece, described method for platemaking are carried out in accordance with the following steps：
a）It is based on five pieces of masterplates of the standard edition, first to determine a central point 16 on 1/2nd anters 11,
The central point 16 is centered on anter top neck point 17 to let droop straight line for vertical center line 18, from more than bottom surface 1/
4 1/3 intersection point transverse horizontal line be horizontal datum 19, the intersection point be anter central point 16；
Then by the base of five pieces of masterplates on same level bottom surface, with the horizontal base determined on 1/2nd anters 11
As respective horizontal datum 19 on the basis of directrix 19, both sides phase is taken on the respective waist international standard line 20 of remaining four pieces of masterplate
Deng central point and make vertical center line 21 and intersect at respective horizontal datum 19, determine that joining is respective central point
16；
b）Following amendment is made respectively according to proclined human body and layback type human body：
One is, the human body of proclined feature, centered on the central point 16 of every piece of masterplate, with respective vertical center line 18,
21 is straight line, and under the premise of every piece of masterplate size constancy for keeping standard edition, synchronously turn forward a 9-15 ° of inclination alpha institute shape
Into masterplate be proclined feature human body clothing masterplate；
Two are, the human body of layback type feature, centered on the central point 16 of every piece of masterplate, with respective vertical center line 18,
21 is straight line, under the premise of every piece of masterplate size constancy for keeping standard edition, synchronously tilts backwards a 9-15 ° of angle of inclination beta institute shape
Into masterplate be layback type feature human body clothing masterplate；
The wherein described inclination alpha for tilting forward or backward, β are leaned forward or swing back centrage and standard people with actual with human body
The angle that body fibre line is formed is corresponding.
Shown in figure, step b of the present invention）In, it is described carried out according to proclined human body and layback type human body it is as follows
Amendment is：
The human body of proclined feature, centered on the central point 16 of every piece of masterplate, with vertical center line 18,21 as straight line,
Under the premise of every piece of masterplate size constancy for keeping standard edition, synchronously turn forward a 9-12 ° of inclination alpha, and meets maximum
The distance that moves horizontally of left and right is being less than the masterplate formed by 2.2cm less than 1.5cm, upper and lower maximum perpendicular drop, as
The clothing masterplate of proclined feature human body；
The human body of layback type feature, centered on the central point 16 of every piece of masterplate, with vertical center line 18,21 as straight line,
Under the premise of every piece of masterplate size constancy for keeping standard edition, a 9-12 ° of angle of inclination beta is synchronously tilted backwards, and meets maximum
The distance that moves horizontally of left and right is being less than the masterplate formed by 2.2cm less than 1.5cm, upper and lower maximum perpendicular drop, as
The clothing masterplate of layback type feature human body.
Fig. 4, the solid line in 5 are that standard is made a plate line, and dotted line is the actual plate-making line after movement.
Embodiment 1：A kind of method for platemaking of customization zoarium Western-style clothes of the present invention, described plate-making is according to human body reality
Size processed is measured on border, 1/2nd anters 11 of making standard edition, 12, two points of 1/2nd rear panel centered on standard fibre line 5
One of the sleeve of lateral plate 13,1/2nd large stretch of 14 and 1/2nd sleeve 15 5 pieces of masterplates of small pieces, described method for platemaking is according to as follows
Step is carried out：
a）It is based on five pieces of masterplates of the standard edition, first to determine a central point 16 on 1/2nd anters 11,
The central point 16 is centered on anter top neck point 17 to let droop straight line for vertical center line 18, from more than bottom surface 1/4
Intersection point transverse horizontal line be horizontal datum 19, the intersection point be anter central point 16；
Then by the base of five pieces of masterplates on same level bottom surface, with the horizontal base determined on 1/2nd anters 11
As respective horizontal datum 19 on the basis of directrix 19, both sides phase is taken on the respective waist international standard line 20 of remaining four pieces of masterplate
Deng central point and make vertical center line 21 and intersect at respective horizontal datum 19, determine that joining is respective central point
16；
b）Following amendment is made respectively according to proclined human body and layback type human body：
One is, the human body of proclined feature, centered on the central point 16 of every piece of masterplate, with respective vertical center line 18,
21 is straight line, under the premise of every piece of masterplate size constancy for keeping standard edition, synchronously turns forward what 9 ° of inclination alphas were formed
Masterplate is the clothing masterplate of proclined feature human body, and meet maximum left and right move horizontally distance less than 1.5cm, on
Lower maximum perpendicular drop is in the masterplate formed less than 2.2cm, as the clothing masterplate of proclined feature human body；
Two are, the human body of layback type feature, centered on the central point 16 of every piece of masterplate, with respective vertical center line 18,
21 is straight line, under the premise of every piece of masterplate size constancy for keeping standard edition, synchronously tilts backwards what 9 ° of angle of inclination beta were formed
Masterplate is the clothing masterplate of layback type feature human body, and meet maximum left and right move horizontally distance less than 1.5cm, on
Lower maximum perpendicular drop is in the masterplate formed less than 2.2cm, as the clothing masterplate of layback type feature human body.
Embodiment 2：The present embodiment is as different from Example 1：
Step a）In, central point 16 is centered on anter top neck point 17 to let droop straight line for vertical center line 18,
From more than bottom surface 1/3 intersection point transverse horizontal line be horizontal datum 19, the intersection point be anter central point 16；
Step b）In,
One is, the human body of proclined feature, centered on the central point 16 of every piece of masterplate, with respective vertical center line 18,
21 is straight line, and under the premise of every piece of masterplate size constancy for keeping standard edition, the 15 ° of inclination alphas that synchronously turn forward are formed
Masterplate be proclined feature human body clothing masterplate；
Two are, the human body of layback type feature, centered on the central point 16 of every piece of masterplate, with respective vertical center line 18,
21 is straight line, under the premise of every piece of masterplate size constancy for keeping standard edition, synchronously tilts backwards 15 ° of angle of inclination beta and is formed
Masterplate be layback type feature human body clothing masterplate；
Remaining content is identical with embodiment.
Embodiment 3：The present embodiment is as different from Example 1：
Step a）In, central point 16 is centered on anter top neck point 17 to let droop straight line for vertical center line 18,
From more than bottom surface 7/24 intersection point transverse horizontal line be horizontal datum 19, the intersection point be anter central point 16；
Step b）In,
One is, the human body of proclined feature, centered on the central point 16 of every piece of masterplate, with respective vertical center line 18,
21 is straight line, and under the premise of every piece of masterplate size constancy for keeping standard edition, the 11 ° of inclination alphas that synchronously turn forward are formed
Masterplate be proclined feature human body clothing masterplate；
Two are, the human body of layback type feature, centered on the central point 16 of every piece of masterplate, with respective vertical center line 18,
21 is straight line, under the premise of every piece of masterplate size constancy for keeping standard edition, synchronously tilts backwards 11 ° of angle of inclination beta and is formed
Masterplate be layback type feature human body clothing masterplate；
Remaining content is identical with embodiment.
Claims (2)
1. the method for platemaking of the fit Western-style clothes of a kind of customization, described plate-making is according to human body actual amount size, with standard fibre
/ 2nd anters of making standard edition, 1/2nd rear panels, 1/2nd lateral plates, 1/2nd sleeve sheets and two centered on line
/ mono- sleeve five pieces of masterplates of small pieces, it is characterised in that described method for platemaking is carried out in accordance with the following steps：
a）It is based on five pieces of masterplates of the standard edition, first to determine a central point, the central point on 1/2nd anters
It is centered on the neck point of anter top to let droop straight line as vertical reference line, it is horizontal in the intersection point from more than bottom surface 1/4 1/3
Horizontal line is horizontal datum, and the intersection point is the central point of anter；
Then, by the base of five pieces of masterplates in same level, the horizontal datum determined with 1/2nd anters is as base
Standard takes central point as respective horizontal datum, on the respective waist international standard line of remaining four pieces of masterplate and makees vertical line and intersects
In horizontal datum, determine that joining is respective central point；
b）Following amendment is made respectively according to proclined human body and layback type human body：
One is, the human body of proclined feature, centered on the central point of every piece of masterplate, with vertical center line as straight line, is keeping
Under the premise of every piece of masterplate size constancy of standard edition, the masterplate formed by the 9-15 ° of inclination angle that synchronously turns forward is and leans forward
The clothing masterplate of type feature human body；
Two are, the human body of layback type feature, centered on the central point of every piece of masterplate, with vertical center line as straight line, are keeping
Under the premise of every piece of masterplate size constancy of standard edition, the masterplate as layback formed by a 10-15 ° of inclination angle is synchronously tilted backwards
The clothing masterplate of type feature human body；
Leaned forward or swing back centrage and standardized human body's fibre with actual with human body at the wherein described inclination angle for tilting forward or backward
The angle that line is formed is corresponding.
2. the method for platemaking of the fit Western-style clothes of customization according to claim 1, it is characterised in that described step b）In, it is described
Following amendment is carried out according to proclined human body and layback type human body is：
The human body of proclined feature, centered on the central point of every piece of masterplate, with vertical center line as straight line, is keeping standard edition
Every piece of masterplate size constancy under the premise of, synchronously turn forward a 9-12 ° of inclination angle, and meets moving horizontally for maximum left and right
Distance is less than 1.5cm, upper and lower maximum perpendicular drop in the masterplate formed less than 2.2cm, as proclined feature human body
Clothing masterplate；
The human body of layback type feature, centered on the central point of every piece of masterplate, with vertical center line as straight line, is keeping standard edition
Every piece of masterplate size constancy under the premise of, synchronously tilt backwards a 9-12 ° of inclination angle, and meet moving horizontally for maximum left and right
Distance is less than 1.5cm, upper and lower maximum perpendicular drop in the masterplate formed less than 2.2cm, as layback type feature human body
Clothing masterplate.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201510813948.3A CN105476142B (en) | 2015-11-23 | 2015-11-23 | Platemaking method of customized tailored suit |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201510813948.3A CN105476142B (en) | 2015-11-23 | 2015-11-23 | Platemaking method of customized tailored suit |
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| CN105476142A CN105476142A (en) | 2016-04-13 |
| CN105476142B true CN105476142B (en) | 2017-03-22 |
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| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201510813948.3A Active CN105476142B (en) | 2015-11-23 | 2015-11-23 | Platemaking method of customized tailored suit |
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Families Citing this family (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN106820374B (en) * | 2017-04-11 | 2018-04-03 | 肖友烤 | Cover type three-dimensional cutting method |
| CN107224021A (en) * | 2017-05-15 | 2017-10-03 | 吴国英 | Hip is leaned forward using 3 line morphological transformations and three circle converter techniques, moved after shoulder point, the complex shape plate-making method of the circle back of the body |
| CN107028264A (en) * | 2017-05-15 | 2017-08-11 | 吴国英 | Line morphological transformation and three circle converter techniques are selected to thick body, milk chest, flat shoulder, big tripe complex shape method for platemaking using three |
| CN109527684B (en) * | 2018-12-28 | 2020-10-09 | 西京学院 | Drawing method for clothes armhole and sleeve |
| CN110693119B (en) * | 2019-09-23 | 2023-08-25 | 海宁紫衡服装设计有限公司 | Pattern making and sleeve matching method for raglan sleeve clothing |
Family Cites Families (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN85203341U (en) * | 1985-08-07 | 1986-06-04 | 欧宏骏 | Movable multiple size standard patterns for cutting out garments |
| CN1347672A (en) * | 2001-05-19 | 2002-05-08 | 王益正 | Clothing contour push-board process |
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| CN105476142A (en) | 2016-04-13 |
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