CN104903510A - Ring dyed polymer treated materials - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention discloses ring dyed polymer treated materials. Products and methods for ring dyeing a yarn and/or surface dyeing a fabric are provided. The product and method disclose the application of a dye binding composition including a urethane based polymer to a textile yarn, fabric, or garment. The dye binding composition is engineered so that the composition is positioned on or near the surface of the yarn, producing a ring dyed material. The dye binding composition can be colored with selective dyes that bind to the composition but generally do not have affinity for textile substrate. Garments created using the fabric can be abraded to remove surface polymer and color in different locations of the garment, creating an antiqued appearing garment. Dyes of different classifications can be used to produce novel performance and coloration effects in textile materials and garments. This process has been demonstrated on yarn (for a denim-like appearance), knitted and woven fabrics, and garments.

Description

The material of ring dyed polymers process

Background technology

As time goes on, by color application in textiles.Before dye industry is formed, employ the natural colorant obtained from plant and soil environment processed (earthen surrounding).All there is challenge in the depth problem of the fixing of dye, durability, light resistance, fastness and color.Become known along with dyestuff chemistry and design dyestuff and enrich with the synthetic method being attached to concrete fiber, under different mechanism, create dyestuff to be attached to various type of fibers.For cellulosic material, make reducing dye (vat dye) and reducing material solvable, and subsequently once dyestuff permeable fiber, fixing by being oxidized.Use equally and can link with water-soluble colorant once to enter the metallization mordant (metalized mordant) of dye precipitated in fiber when being applied to natural fabric.In order to utilize the solubility of the dye component for colored textiles, application naphthol dye, and with pairing alkali (companion base) in conjunction with time, in fibre substrate, cause-catch insoluble colouring agent.

Owing to having introduced in dyeing by filmogen (film forming material), therefore applying colouring agent to the new method of textiles by pad dyeing and printing process has become possibility.In this tint applications, usually by polymer adhesive and colouring agent mixing, apply together, and usually pigment color is stayed on the surface.The trial in the mixture of other colorant combination is caused usually fastness (COLOR FASTNESS, colorfastness) or fast light (light fastness, light fastness) performance issue of difference.

There is the multiple trial of production " ring dyeing (ring dyed) " yarn.The most usually and generally indigo dyeing to produce denim goods (denim).By by dye-impregnated be oxidizing to multiple steps on yarn, dyestuff only partial penetration is intrafascicular to yarn.Once before washing process and in process, made clothes and used chemistry and physical grinding device to process it, result " ring dyeing " produces shallow and dark ledge (light and dark highlight) at grinding point place.

Usually the applying of the pigment dye being mixed with adhesive can also be utilized to complete ring dyeing.The method has caused fabric to have comparatively skilled hand's sense (stiff handle) and edge rubbing properties energy (marginal rubfastness performance, fastness to rubbing performance); But, along with having lower T _gthe feature of value is the development of the acrylate copolymer chemistry of republicanism ter-polymers blend, has created softer and more durable polymer.Even under the development of improving SNR, there is challenge in color selecting and the firm performance of the shade degree of depth (depth of shade) Relative friction.By new polyethylene base alcohol emulsion system improve rubbing properties can effort obtained some improve (see, Schoots etc., U.S. Patent Application Publication No.: 2011/0009021 Al).

Summary of the invention

Following present the simplified summary of one or more embodiments of the present invention, to provide the basic comprehension of this kind of embodiment.The exhaustive overview of the embodiment of the not all consideration of this summary, and be not intended to the key or the important elements that identify all embodiments, the scope of any or all embodiment neither be described.Its unique object is leading as the more detailed description presented subsequently of some designs presenting one or more embodiments in simplified form.

In first, provide the dyestuff binding compositions (dye binding composition) for ring coloring material (ring dyed material), said composition comprises the carbamate base polymer (polyurethane polymer, urethane based polymer) of the percentage of solids had in the composition by weight between 0.5% to 50%.In some embodiments, the percentage of solids in composition is between 2.0% to 12.0%.In some embodiments, composition comprises cationic materials further.Again further in embodiment, cationic materials is selected from the group be made up of guanidine and carbamate.In further embodiment, composition comprises UV inhibitor further.In some embodiments, carbamate base polymer is dispersions of polyurethanes.

In second, provide the ring dyed yarn (ring dyed yarn) comprising at least one fiber and the dyestuff binding compositions for ring coloring material, composition comprises the carbamate base polymer of the percentage of solids had in the composition by weight between 0.5% to 50%.In some embodiments, yarn comprise be configured to optionally by be positioned at least part of surface of fiber dyestuff binding compositions dyeing at least one dyestuff.In further embodiment, at least some in dyestuff binding compositions is positioned at least part of surface of fiber.Again further in embodiment, fiber is selected from by the following group formed: cotton (cotton), hair (wool), silk (silk), hemp (fiber crops, hemp, hemp), flax (flax), polyester, artificial silk (rayon), acetate, nylon, spandex (spandex), alkene, polyethylene, polyethylene and polypropylene.

In the 3rd, fabric is provided, comprises fiber; For the dyestuff binding compositions of ring coloring material, said composition comprises the carbamate base polymer of the percentage of solids had in the composition by weight between 0.5% to 50%, wherein, at least some in dyestuff binding compositions is positioned at least part of surface of fiber; And at least one dyestuff, be configured to optionally by painted for the dyestuff binding compositions be positioned at least part of surface of fiber.In some embodiments, dyestuff binding compositions comprises the cationic materials being selected from the group be made up of guanidine and carbamate further.Again further in embodiment, at least one dyestuff can not directly by stock-dye.In some embodiments, fabric comprises denim goods (denim).In some embodiments, fiber comprises at least one in cotton fiber and synthetic fiber.

In the 4th, clothes (garment) are provided, comprise fibrous fabric; For the dyestuff binding compositions of ring coloring material, said composition comprises the carbamate base polymer of the percentage of solids had in the composition by weight between 0.5% to 50%, wherein, at least some in dyestuff binding compositions is positioned at least part of surface of fiber; And at least one dyestuff, be configured to the dyestuff binding compositions dyeing optionally will be positioned at least part of surface of fiber.In some embodiments, clothes comprise the first surface region comprising the dyestuff binding compositions using at least one dyeing, and not containing the second surface region of dyestuff binding compositions.

In the 5th, provide the method for producing ring dyeing or padding fiber, yarn (yarn), fabric or clothes, the method comprises: the dyestuff binding compositions being used for ring coloring material is applied at least one in fiber, yarn, fabric or clothes, and said composition comprises the carbamate base polymer of the percentage of solids had in the composition by weight between 0.5% to 50%; Add thermal fiber, yarn, fabric or clothes, with the surface causing dyestuff binding compositions to move to fiber, yarn (yarn), fabric or clothes; And at least one selective dye is applied at least one of fiber, yarn, fabric or clothes, wherein, selective dye is selected for dyestuff binding compositions.

In some embodiments, dyestuff binding compositions and selective dye are used simultaneously.In some embodiments, dyestuff binding compositions and selective dye are used in order.In further embodiment, the method comprises at least part of surface of grinding (abrade) clothes further, the at least some dyestuff binding compositions of at least one dyeing has been used with removing, there is to make clothes the first area of the fiber comprised containing the dyestuff binding compositions using at least one dyeing, and comprise the second area of the fiber not containing dyestuff binding compositions.In some embodiments, grind and carry out according to following at least one: sand papering; Use diatomite; And use float stone to clothes.Again further in embodiment, add hot dye binding compositions and use at least one in curing oven (curing oven), steam generator (steam cans) and heating flue (hot flue) to carry out.Again further in embodiment, roll steamings (pad steaming), jet dyeing, bobbing machine dyeing (jigger dyeing), line dyeing (beam dyeing), pad dyeing/drying/thermosol dyeing and at least one in printing on the dyeing of the thermosol on continuous dye scope or tenter frame (tenter frame), continuous knot dyeing (continuous pad)/steam zone or flash distillation ageing machine is used to use selective dye.

According to the discussion that following non-limiting detailed description of the present invention and accompanying drawing illustrate, to those skilled in the art, other aspects addressed by claim and feature will become apparent.

Accompanying drawing explanation

Now, with reference to the accompanying drawing that need not draw in proportion, be thus described embodiments of the present invention with general terms, and wherein:

Fig. 1 shows according to a kind of embodiment of the present disclosure under different dyes concentration, the schematic diagram that shade (shade) affects for Chemical activator.

Detailed description of the invention

Now, more fully describe embodiments of the present invention with reference to appended embodiment and figure, illustrated therein is more of the present invention and not all embodiments.In fact, the present invention can be embodied with multiple different form, and should be interpreted as being limited to the embodiment provided in this article; On the contrary, these embodiments are provided to make the disclosure can meet applicable legal requiremnt.Run through whole invention, identical label refers to similar elements.

In the conceived case, unless otherwise expressly stated, otherwise any term represented in the singular in this article means also to comprise plural form, and vice versa.Equally, as used in this article, even if also using phrase " one or more " in this article, but term " " and/or " one " should mean " one or more ".Also should be appreciated that when some embodiments by method or product description for comprising one or more elements time, method or element also can be made up of element disclosed herein, or are substantially made up of element disclosed herein.

Disclosed in this article, provide the dyestuff binding compositions for the preparation of ring dyed yarn and/or padding material.In one embodiment, prepared by padding material ring dyed yarn.In some embodiments, dyestuff binding compositions comprises and selects to be designed to provide minimum or maximum migration composition to be positioned at polymer in fiber surface or on fiber surface and/or additive according to molecular weight and monomer.Usually polymer is applied in aqueous medium, and can be prepared, to form polymer emulsion by the various of monomer in carbamate, guanidine, azetidine and vinyl halogen family.The solids by weight scope be added in textile substrate can from 0.5% to 50%; But usually expect the percentage from 2.0% to 12.0%.In addition, polymer has good film forming characteristics, has durability to wash conditions, has the ability combining the material that can provide the attraction of target dyestuff and durability, and/or can by the fixing of dye in its matrix.

In some embodiments, dyestuff binding compositions comprises and has the carbamate base polymer of scope from the molecular weight of 1,000g/mol to 400,000g/mol.In one embodiment, carbamate base polymer has the molecular weight of scope from 2,000g/mol to 200,000g/mol.Design carbamate base polymer is to attract and to retain selective dye; But, in some embodiments, other materials as discussed below can be added.In some embodiments, carbamate base polymer comprises dispersions of polyurethanes.As used in this article, term " dispersions of polyurethanes " describes the stabilized mixture of polyether polyols with reduced unsaturation in water.Polyether polyols with reduced unsaturation is characterized by their content of monomer usually, and generally includes the reaction of vulcabond and polyalcohol and chain extender most.Dispersions of polyurethanes can be the stable aqueous mixture of any known polyurethane.Usually, the polyurethane being applicable to aqueous polyurethane dispersion is the product of the following: (a) per molecule has the isocyanate compound of at least two isocyanates (--NCO) functional group; And (b) per molecule has at least two hydroxy functional groups and the scope polyalcohol from 250g/mol to 10,000g/mol molecular weight.

Exemplary polyols comprises the polyethers of hydroxyl or end-blocking, polyester, Merlon, polycaprolactone, polythiaether, polyether ester, polyolefin and polydiene.Suitable polyether polyol for the preparation of polyether-polyurethane and their dispersion comprises the polymerizate of cyclic oxide as oxirane, expoxy propane, oxolane or their mixture.The polyether polyol of usual discovery comprises polyoxyethylene (PEO) polyalcohol, polyoxy third rare (PPO) polyalcohol, polyoxytetramethylene (PTMO) polyalcohol, and obtains from the polyalcohol of cyclic oxide as the mixture of poly-(oxygen ethene-altogether-polypropylene) polyalcohol.The common molecular weight ranges of polyether polyol can from 250g/mol to 10,000g/mol.

Comprise hydroxy-end capped for the preparation of polyester-polyurethane and their the suitable polyester polyol of aqueous dispersion or comprise the product of the following of hydroxyl and the derivative of dicarboxylic acids or their formation ester: ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, 1-4, butanediol, furyl dimethyl carbinol, PTMEG or their mixture.The polyether-polyurethane of modification such as polyesteretherurethane and polyethercarbonate polyurethanes also can be the suitable polyurethane for the preparation of aqueous polyurethane dispersion.The polyether-polyurethane of these modifications can obtain by other polyester polyol or polycarbonate polyol being combined in polyether polyol in polyurethane manufacture process.Dispersions of polyurethanes as the component in the composition in dyestuff binding compositions is selected from polyether-polyurethane, polyester-polyurethane, polycarbonate polyurethane, polyesteretherurethane, polyether polycarbonate polyurethane, polycaprolactone polyurethane, hydrocarbon polyurethane, aliphatic polyurethane, aromatic urethane and their combination.

Dispersions of polyurethanes as used in this article comprises the emulsion of conventional polyether polyols with reduced unsaturation (such as wherein, utilize the interpolation of surfactant and the application of shearing by preformed polyether polyols with reduced unsaturation emulsification in water-bearing media), and comprise the stabilized mixture of self-dispersed polyether polyols with reduced unsaturation.These polyurethane dispersing liquids are not usually containing external surfactants, because the chemical part with surfactant sample characteristic to have infiltrated to polyether polyols with reduced unsaturation and has therefore been " self-emulsifying " or " from dispersion ".The representative example that can be incorporated into the inside emulsifying agent part of dispersions of polyurethanes useful in the present invention comprises ionic group (as sulphonic acid ester, carboxylic acid ester, quaternary amine); And nonionic emulsifier group (as polyethers).

In one embodiment, isocyanate-terminated polyurethane prepolymer is by isocyanates, polyalcohol, optional cahin extension agent, and the monomer that at least one contains hydrophilic radical is made to give faling apart property of aqueous prepolymer.Other polyisocyanate can be utilized subsequently in water to prepare this dispersions of polyurethanes by the polyurethane prepolymer of dispersed isocyanate end-blocking.In addition chain growth can be affected by adding cahin extension agent to aqueous dispersion.Depend on that the selection of the hydrophilic radical of use is to give polyether polyols with reduced unsaturation water-dispersible, additional reactions steps can be required and hydrophilic radical is converted into ionic species, and such as conversion carboxylic group becomes ion salt or amine becomes amine salt or cationic quaternary ammonium groups.

For with selective dye dyeing, the material of target dyestuff can be attracted in polymeric matrix can be incorporated into dyestuff binding compositions.In some embodiments, dyestuff binding compositions comprises cellulose esters, and this cellulose esters comprises cellulose acetate, cellulose propionate, cellulose butylate, and their combination.In other embodiments, dyestuff binding compositions comprises polymer and cellulose esters.In further embodiment, the total solid of dyestuff binding compositions is 50%, and wherein, the concentration of one or more cellulose esters is in 1.0% to 25% solids range and the concentration of polymer is 25%-49% solid.In some embodiments, these one or more cellulose esters comprise fine gtinding powder, and its particle size range is from 0.5 micron to 10 microns.In other embodiments, the fine gtinding powder of cellulose esters has scope from the particle diameter of 1 micron to 3 microns.In other embodiment, cellulose esters is added into dyestuff binding compositions in powder form.Emulsion in a concentrated form total solid can change between 10% to 60%, simultaneously the ratio of polymer and one or more cellulose esters be retained in total solid percentage 2% to 50% between.

In some embodiments, dyestuff binding compositions is applied to fiber, yarn, fabric, and clothes, and its concentration range is 0.5% to 50% solid; But having larger percent solids is larger cost and larger hardness.In one embodiment, fiber, yarn, fabric will be applied to, or the percent solids scope of clothes is between 2.0 to 12.0%.In further embodiment, fiber, yarn, fabric will be applied to, or the percent solids scope of clothes is between 3.0 to 10.0%.Designing dyestuff binding compositions (comprising the percentage of solid in the composition) especially makes polymer and/or selective dye migrate to surface for the production of ring dyed yarn and/or padding fabric to produce a kind of dyestuff binding compositions.

Yarn and fabric can be made up of the main body of any textile fabric, particularly natural fabric, it comprises cotton (cotton), hair (wool), silk (silk), hemp (hemp), flax or synthetic fiber (comprise polyester, artificial silk (rayon), acetic acid esters, acrylic compounds, nylon (aromatics and aliphatic series), modified acrylic fibre, spandex (Spandex), alkene comprises ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene, polyethylene, polypropylene etc., or the combination of two or more of these fibers).In some embodiments, yarn comprises by the 100% cotton fiber formed.In other embodiments, yarn comprises the cotton fiber blended with non-cotton fiber.In some embodiments, the blend of fiber is at least the cotton fiber of 50%.

In some embodiments, dyestuff binding compositions comprises UV inhibitor further to improve light fastness, as hindered amine as light stabilizer (HALS).Before application or at this polymer as a part for dye mixture or separately after solidification, light stabilizer can be added to polymeric blends.Two kinds of methods have demonstrated the validity improving light fastness.Several low and polymer substance from comprising Cytec, Clariant, Great Lakes, and is purchased in the company of Ciba/Huntsman.Exemplary UV inhibitor comprises high molecular weight material, and it can be incorporated in groove (bath) and will finally to migrate to the surface of film when thin polymer film is formed when drying.A kind of embodiment has coming from of about 4000 molecular weight chemical company before or after application, also can add these UV inhibitor to finally completing groove (finishing bath) with the surface of coated polymer.UV absorbing material is also available, and in benzotriazole family, it can play similar object by different mechanism and can obtain from Cytec typically.

In further embodiment, dyestuff binding compositions comprises cationic polymer, and this polymer infiltrates in carbamate matrix.Such embodiment can be used for the reactive dyeing utilizing ACID DYES or acidifying.Cationic polymer comprises guanidine and/or carbamate.In conjunction with guanidine and carbamate to form polymer film, can depend on that this film of percentage of the guanidine be incorporated in matrix is cationic.In some embodiments, dyestuff binding compositions comprises guanidine and the polymer based on carbamate.In further embodiment, the total solid percentage of dyestuff binding compositions is 50% solid, wherein, guanidine accounts for the 5%-45% solid of the total solid percentage of dyestuff binding compositions and the polymer based on carbamate accounts for 45% to 5% of the total solid percentage of dyestuff binding compositions.In one embodiment, the polymer based on carbamate exists with the percentage being greater than cationic substance in dyestuff binding compositions.In further embodiment, the polymer based on carbamate exists with the percentage or the percentage approximately equal with cationic substance (such as plus or minus 5%) that are less than cationic substance in dyestuff binding compositions.

In the application process of dyestuff binding compositions, processing conditions and chemical concentrations limit the degree of outward appearance and penetration dyeing or the ring dyeing generation obtained.When wherein penetration dyeing be expect time, slowly complete the drying or before the drying process of polymer, migration inhibitor infiltrated in mixture.When the fabric of the solid additive (add on) with same percentage compares, the shade (shade) that fabric slowly dry after dyeing causes is more shallow with the shade of the fabric of faster speed drying (shade) than after dyeing.Believe that this result is polymer direct result on a surface of a substrate.But the object of this technology is design dyestuff binding compositions, and it causes polymer and/or dye migration to the surface of material, forms ring dyed yarn and/or padding fabric.

Mixture to textile substrate to be applied usually by blended dyestuff binding compositions with there are 80 ° of water to the temperature range of 100 ° of Fahrenheits prepare.In one embodiment, after polymer adds, the pH of water/polymeric blends is not less than 6.0 and is not more than 8.0; But pH level slightly super going beyond the scope is proved to be harmless.If needed, migration inhibitor and UV inhibitor now can be added.In some embodiments, the polymer percent solids concentration range of this dyestuff binding compositions is from 1% to 25% solid.In one exemplary embodiment, the degree of depth according to feel and color is considered, dyestuff binding compositions has the percent solids concentration range at 2% to 12% solid.

This dyestuff binding compositions is prepared based on yarn, fabric or clothes hygroscopic capacity (wet pickup), in order to provide the percent solids additive (add on) of suitable target, between 2.0% and 12%.For the application of these chemical mixtures for cotton, depend on that pad rolls point pressure (pad nip pressure), the final vacuum process of fabric, groove viscosity, and/or the absorbability of filler (padded material), pad hygroscopic capacity generally will be changed to 220% from 45%.Percentage hygroscopic capacity is calculated as [(wet weight of the rear fabric of filling)-(filling the dry weight of front fabric)]/(filling the dry weight of front fabric) * 100.Such as, the hygroscopic capacity scope of great majority 100% COTTON FABRIC is from 85 to 100%, add with the solid reaching 3%, the groove concentration (the dye conjugates matter of 6% and 50% active solid material) of 3% solid and the hygroscopic capacity of 100% are added producing suitable solid.More low moisture adds application (being low to moderate 10%) has proved to use foaming technique; But, utilize the main body that more traditional Chemical activator technology has been finished the work.Use foaming technique, the horizontal general control of hygroscopic capacity is between 20 to 40%, and this depends in the amount of moisture required on refining fabric and the outward appearance of expectation.

Once dyestuff binding compositions has been applied in yarn or fabric, flatness and dry speed have determined the amount of the chemical substance migrating to fabric face.Fabric drying is faster, and polymer migration is larger to surface.The degree that the ring caused dyes by this impact application.For more in check, slower drying, can process fabric by pre-dryer before the drying and above solidify at stenter (tenter frame).For penetration dyeing (wishing minimum polymer migration wherein), fabric can be processed on stenter, make fabric be only part drying.This can pass through to reduce stenter regional temperature and the velocity interpolation increasing fabric.The moisture of fabric should control between 8 to 15%.Final drying and realizing in being solidificated in subsequently process.

For Dye Ring (ring-dye), more rapid draing is used for the polymer of dyestuff binding compositions to migrate to yarn or fabric face.This is by processing fabric or yarn at relatively high temperatures and being realized by (initial tenter pass) upper cure polymer at initial stenter.This drying also can move in the thermal source on surface at curing oven, steam generator, heating flue or other promotion water and polymer and complete.

When applied chemistry goods are to yarn, yarn can not rupture to make yarn be bonded together after the drying in the drying of the coated and polymer of dyestuff binding compositions.Dyestuff binding compositions can be applied to clean yarn, the yarn cleaned and bleach or yarn in a state of nature.Each condition provides different outward appearances, and wherein pristine fibre (raw yarn) provides maximum loop dyeing property.Under each condition, groove concentration is also different, this is because the absorbability of yarn for polymer/water mixture; But target solids adds scope from 2.0% to 12.0%, depends on the size of processed yarn.

There is many modes, wherein yarn can be coated.Method utilizes the process of dyestuff binding compositions by a yarn for pad, and this dyestuff binding compositions comprises the mixture of polymer, water and auxiliary agent.Groove temperature can tune between 65 ° and 190 °F; But most consistent results occurs in groove temperature when controlling between 80 ° and 100 °F.Dry can use forces air-oven, pre-dryer, thermosol oven, heating flue baking oven, microwave or steam generator or above-mentioned any combination to complete.Above arrange the yarn processed to process for future at loom beam (loom beam) or section beam (section beam).Consequent section beam (comprising the yarn of process) can combine with many other beam columns (beam), a certain size is made with the material (as starch or polyvinyl alcohol) easily removed, if or enough polymer are applied, at all without the need to size.By adopting the combination of these application technologies, (warp direction) uses the yarn of process in the warp direction, utilize original subsequently, cleaning, bleaching, or weft yarn (filling yarn) braided fabric of dyeing, the fabric of gained can be the dyeing of the polymer material of dye binding compositions by target.When using polymer material when expecting the outward appearance that ring dye, selects dyestuff not to be inclined to dyed cotton (at dyeing phase with in rinse stage) for them to cotton or cotton blend.In the further embodiment of chemicals to the application of yarn, the device that passes through by making yarn to spume allows chemicals and moisture will measure on fabric, and chemicals can be applied to yarn.This technology makes chemicals waste reach minimum and allow the specified level of the dyestuff conjugated polymer to yarn to be applied.

Weft yarn is selected the treatment step after determining.Great majority do not comprise stretch yarn (stretch yarn), as spandex (Spandex) for the denim in the male sex and boy's denim goods market.For female market, weft direction (filling direction) adopts stretch yarn usually.Exploitation and safeguard needed for tensile properties dyeing and refining (finishing) method must carefully control to prevent the elastic reaction of spandex or other stretching materials deteriorated.

Once fabric is woven, fabric will other be undyed as great majority, and greige fabric (greige fabric) occurs.Dyestuff can in the form of a fabric or clothes form application, depend on the dyestuff binding compositions of selection.Exemplary dyestuff comprises acid dye and for the polymer selective REACTIVE DYES comprising guanidine or other cationic substance, and for any dyestuff binding compositions DISPERSE DYES.The advantage dyeed in the form of a fabric be give with client before, color and the shade (shade) of fabric can be seen.In addition, fabric panel (fabric panel) can be prepared with washing to guarantee that the shade of fabric is at structure clothes with to wash before them be consistent with to form denim goods outward appearance clothes.This method allows to produce neatly multiple color, the denim goods outward appearance fabric of color depth and clothes and design colours retains (depending on selected polymer and the infiltration of material in processing procedure).

Have a lot of mode, wherein, this denim fabric obtained can be colored.In one embodiment, the polymer of dyestuff binding compositions is designed to accept the dyestuff selected.A kind of colouring method be application dyestuff on liner, this fabric dry, and heat this fabric to 390 ° between 425 °F minimum 30 seconds, this depends on the dyestuff of selection.In embodiments, dyestuff is designed with distil between those temperatures (being converted to gaseous state from solid state).Under gaseous state, be attached to dye selection polyether polyols with reduced unsaturation and/or cellulose acetate material in polymer substrate, and be usually not attached to the cellulose fibre of fabric.If suitably select dyestuff and use suitable wash conditions, ensuing flushing can remove the selective dye be not fixed in polymeric matrix usually effectively.Carefully must use the method, if drawing of fiber infiltrates in fabric, (reset) or degraded because spandex can reset at these elevated temperatures.

If needed, by the application of making the finishing agent (hand-builder) of lubricant (sewing lubricant) and water miscible improvement feel, this fabric is refined.These are usually applied to before drying on pad or on fabric and foam on stenter.Final process comprises advance contracting fabric and add even skew of weft (skew) on TWILL CLOTH line (twill line) direction.This prevent distortion stitch in finished garment (twisted leg), and guarantee that this fabric shrinkage factor when wet process is no more than 3%.Shrinkproof (sanforization) process before, for Cambodia's blend, fabric on warp or longitudinal direction shrinkage factor scope from 8% to 12%.

By color application to the another kind of method of the fabric processed be in pad incorporating selectively dyestuff and the steam treatment fabric time of 30 seconds to 3 minutes.Under these conditions according to dye selection and polymeric oxidizer, this polymer and cellulose acetate will dye usually.This steam treatment process may be used for stockinette, for it, by with the form dyed base of fabric instead of clothes.

For stockinette, subtractive process can comprise heat setting step with the width of stable fabric.The application of refining chemical can occur in this stage at (comprising UV stabilizing agent).Spandex in this application on weft direction or stretched polyester will have painted or become coloured tendency; Therefore it preferably has core and spins cotton spandex stretch yarn (core spun cotton spandex stretch yarn), instead of the polyester yarn comprising compound such as (pass through INVISTA ^tM) material or weft yarn (comprising poly-butylene terephthalate).Best result has been presented at core textile product (core spun product) upper (being made up of the cotton with spandex core).

The remarkable advantage of the method be it walk around need with in the scope of denim goods with rope form dyed yarn, starching (apply size), then takes time, energy and chemical resource to be to remove all sizes and some colors to produce finished garment.In addition, the weight range of the saturated selective dye required for shade (shade) is realized from 0.5 to 2.0%OWG, instead of for the indigo concentration of OWG of the higher 3-5% needed for denim goods.

By using dyestuff binding compositions in above-described method, in cold water, clothes can wash less time and use less chemicals according to outward appearance required after washing.During clothes wet process, the amylase of removing for removing starch, for the cellulase of fabric face of degrading, for removing hypochlorite bleaching or the potassium permanganate of color, and the accessory substance generated by these methods has been proved to be the ambient influnence (solid being derived from reduction produces and energy use) that can produce forward.In addition, the elimination of these chemicals and process at a lower temperature also cause currency to be saved.

An other option of dyestuff binding compositions is in wet treatment step, use selective dye to sew up DYED FABRICS after clothes.Such as, clothes is placed in rinsing maching, add water to produce 4:1 to 20:1 liquid and article ratio, pH acetic acid is adjusted to 4.0, and add OWG (weighing scales with the article) selective dye of 0.5% and 3%, machine is heated to 190 °F with the speed of 5 °F/minute, temperature keeps 60 minutes, groove declines, clothes warm water washing 5 minutes 2 times, adds softener, water extraction and clothes dry 40 clocks under 140 °F.Other method using selective dye in wet treatment step is possible.

Using polymer is to woven fabric and knit goods

How to apply this chemistry to produce new innovative product to meet the many popular and environmental demand in market, existing a large amount of discussions.Can dye in many ways at textile finishing factory (woven finishing plant), fabric.These include but not limited to: thermosol dyeing in continuous dyeing scope or stenter, pad dyeing steam (pad steaming), the dyeing of jet dyeing, bobbing machine, line dyeing, pad dyeing/drying/thermosol dyeing and printing on continuous knot dyeing (pad)/steam zone or flash distillation ageing machine.Fabric also can use high pressure steam generator to dye, and wherein superheated steam is for realizing the temperature close to 220 °F.This technique provides new design and sales opportunnities, it can generate uniqueness for fabric and clothes concept and fashion.The embodiment that presents in this article to solve on present market many intrinsic performance deficiencies in many products, and provides significant environmental benefit for present method.These designs many are provided below.Conventional method is as follows:

100% cotton or that polyester/cotton is blended fabric receives with greig (greige) form and carries out destarch, cleaning, bleaching, and/or mercerization finish and prepare to be used for dyeing.These processes can be implemented to provide absorption, stainable fabric.

The fabric of preparation utilizes the dyestuff binding compositions pad dyeing comprising polymer, to realize the polymer percent solids concentration between 0.5% to 10% solid.In one embodiment, polymer solids percent concentrations is between 2.0% to 7.5%, and calculates as mentioned above.

Fabric uses one or more methods to carry out drying, comprises pre-dryer, stenter, drying chamber, pressure air-oven, electric device, microwave energy or their combination.This drying steps will cause film to be formed.Being solidificated between 250 ° to 320 °F of polymer will produce.

Once polymer cure, dyestuff is by pad (pad)/roller (roll)/extract application.Depend on dye selection, for polyester dyestuff, by 212 ° to 219 °F lower steam treated 30 seconds to 3 minutes or dye at 380 ° to 425 °F lower thermosols and can implement the fixing of dye to polymer in 30 seconds to 45 seconds.Cationic substance is incorporated into the condition in polymer substrate, uses under lower than the pH level of 5.0 pad/the steam option of ACID DYES or optionally REACTIVE DYES to be impregnated in.

Can DYED FABRICS by other method; But, unless must carefully carry out avoiding the novel effect of the grinding clothing form of form of fabric to be wish.In this case, dye with dye injection.When weaving, this is the preferred method of tint applications, instead of in clothes mode.If use plastic flow to spray (soft flow jet) as Gaston County or other similar machine, utilize grinding dyeing knitted fabric (knit) of minimum in the form of a fabric.

For the effective especially a kind of other colouring method of this method be have bobbing machine dyeing (jigger dyeing).The advantage of bobbing machine dyeing is to utilize the dye liquor occurred during transmitting procedure to exchange by allowing dyestuff to be applied to fabric in batch from the side of machine to opposite side continuous rolling with repetition rolling fabric.The method allows heating dye liquid, keeps liquid and fabric ratio lower, and allows the uniformity that dyes, as long as no mixing too many excessive dyestuff in groove.Exist in polymeric matrix limited quantity can dye sites, thus restriction shade (shade) the degree of depth.For this application, dye selection is important in control shade.The effort of match selection dyestuff rate of strike on polymer (strike rate) is found, and indicates whether to control shade (shade) continuity from a collection of to next group.

In one embodiment, for the dyeing course that fabric does not carry out in the form of a fabric, wherein color will be employed with clothes form.

Pass through by softener tie dyeing (padding) on fabric now, while drying, tentering (framing) is to width, and shrinks by shrinkproof (sanforization) process removing residue the fabric can refining dyeing.

Once clothes is constructed, can then carries out wet process and therefore produce clothes, have grinding at the suture of clothes and in flat site at clothes, there is dark and shallow color.

Weaving before especially when mixture being applied to yarn the environment attribute of the method verified in whole process biodegradable material can reduce between 80% to 90%.In addition, water and energy use and can reduce between 50 and 70% to realize comparing the clothes of outward appearance after wet treatment step with clothes form.

Other application process of this technology and embodiment comprise the selection by subject polymer carbamate or carbamic acid ester admixture, carbamic acid ester admixture and dyestuff can be combined into single mixture and be applied to fabric substrate subsequently.This dyestuff has shown to be assembled with the carbamic acid ester admixture in solution and moves together with carbamate in dry run, and the fiber stayed below is unstained.When substrate is cotton or when compared with substrate, when dyestuff has larger affinity for polymeric blends, this is confirmed clearly.

In addition, the fabric adding fluorochemical generation has good fire resistance characteristic; But the treated substrate obtained is difficult to be dyeed by the continuous dyeing method of routine.Add dyestuff and successfully produce coloured, waterproofing agent, dyed base together with carbamic acid ester admixture and fluorochemical.This process successfully processes contraposition and meta-aramid, alkene, cotton, and the blend summarized above.

When these polymerization carbamates add UV inhibitor and be applied to photoactive substance such as or other para-aramid and or during other meta-aramid fiber, the durability being not only material improves, and this material can dye from the teeth outwards.

Multiple application and the carbamate be polymerized in drying steps and the application of mixture proved that shade (shade) degree of depth can strengthen and is up to 125% (when under loading at same polymer solid compared with single application time).

There is many versions in this method, it can cause unique fabric and clothes, and they have Performance Characteristics and/or the design interest of enhancing.Some are summarized in an embodiment.

Embodiment

embodiment #1 (the process of woven fabric)

By 8.2oz/yd ²3xl left hand TWILL CLOTH 100% COTTON FABRIC (there is greig (greige) structure of 108 warp thread (end)/inch × 56 weft yarn (pick)/inch) destarch, clean, bleaching and mercerization finish.Dyestuff binding compositions (by the combination of the solid polyurethane aqueous solution of 45% and the solid cellulose acetate of 5% obtain 50% total solids content) and the water preparation of solution containing 3% solid under 80 °F by adding 6%.The pressure being set in 40psi is utilized to utilize hard rubber roller and steel rider to pad (pad) this fabric by ironer (mangle).Fabric moisture amount is 88%, causes the solid of 2.6% to be added on fabric.Fabric is processed by 8 region combustion gas stenters (gas fired tenter) under utilizing each region to be arranged on 40 yards/minute under 380 °F.Completely fabric drying is solidified (outlet at stenter).

embodiment #1A(dyeing with the fabric of clothes formal layout)

False trouser legs (mock pant leg) are produced and wash as follows: the trouser legs of 2.0kg process are loaded on 35 pounds of Milnor sample machines.Add 30 premium on currency to machine and cause 15:1 liquid and article ratio.By the acetic acid adding 10ml, pH is adjusted to 4.0. lum Yellow 10G (0.8%OWG) and lum Red 4B-E (0.2%OWG) to be diluted in 160 °F of hot water of 1 liter and to stir and enters solution to disperse powder dye in 2 minutes.The while of interpolation in dyestuff to groove, clothes is stirred.Washing machine heats until reach 180 °F with the speed of 5 °F/minute.At dropping water, rinsing and the Ampak Softener Flekes applying 10ml, before cationic softener, this machine keeps 1 hour at this temperature.Fluorescent orange is produced and observes the only slight grinding confirmed by color minute differences at seam crossing.

Embodiment #1B (dyeing add abrasive material with the fabric of clothes formal layout)

The diatomite that 1.0Kg comes from embodiment #1A and 1.0Kg is added into 35lb Milnor machine, and when utilizing 20:1 liquid and article less than process 1 under 80 °F.Edge is only had to wear away at seam crossing.This clothing carries out rinsing, adds the float stone (punice stone) of 1kg and reprocessing 30 minutes.Excellent grinding is observed in seam and leg hems place.Fabric be grinding with crinosity, thus under 125 °F, utilize cellulase acidicenzym to wash clothes other 20 minutes.Utilize soda ash heating clothes to 160 °F to make enzyme deactivation, rinsing, and 125 °F and 4.5 pH under add other softening agent.Subsequently, extraction, drying, and check clothes.Fairly obvious in seam crossing grinding, softer in trouser legs feel, and can white cotton be clear that at the some place of highly grinding.Subsequently manual sand papering leg side and feathering (feathering) is possible wear Simulation.This result clearly proves the ring dyeing property provided by this dyestuff binding compositions and subsequent treatment.

The embodiment #1C dyeing of the fabric of form of fabric process (on pad dyeing (the pad)/steam zone)

By containing 10 grams per liters the dyestuff groove of Royal Blue CC processes the fabric (be 4.0 with second acid for adjusting pH) coming from embodiment #1 in the lab.

Under the steam-generator temperature of 218 °F, tie dyeing steam zone (pad steam range) provides the retention time of 50 seconds.Fabric, by rinsing, extracts, and dry (on hot head press (hot head press)).Obtain medium royalblue fabric (medium royal blue fabric).The trouser legs of 1.0kg are loaded in 80 pounds of Milnor sample washing machines.Water and the 3.0kg float stone of 75 liters add as abrasive material.This clothes processes 40 minutes under 80 °F, rinses, and utilizes the acidicenzym (SEYCOZYME of 1.2%OWG (weighing scale by clothes) ) Sydel Wooley & Company processes 20 minutes to remove the hair on surface under pH is 4.0 and 125 °F, as previously mentioned by acidicenzym sex change, rinsing twice, softens as described above, extracts, and under 140 °F dry 40 minutes.The trouser legs obtained are royalblue shades (shade) and are illustrated in seam crossing display abrasion by the disappearance of color in that region.The light resistance (light fastness, lightfastness) of test fabric, COLOR FASTNESS (colorfastness) and ozone fading.Washability (washfastness) (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists test method " AATCC " 612A) result shows some dyeing and does not almost dye on cotton and polyester fiber on nylon and acetate.Shade (shade) change is between 3.0 and 3.5 grades.

embodiment #1D(woven fabric of distillation printing and dyeing process)

Select the fabric coming from the process of embodiment #1.Utilize the color print transfer paper of low-yield DISPERSE DYES from four dot-matrix printer.Place the paper of printing on the surface of the fabric, heated steel roll is heated to 400 °F by paper and fabric sandwich.The design printed is transferred to the polymer on fabric face.Fabric circulates (utilizing 105 °F of water machine temperature to wash, dry under hot temperature degree) washing to obtain color reservation by five AATCC 135III Ai.Lose the color lower than 25%.Observe the grinding of some fabrics.

embodiment #2(process of fabric dyed in advance)

By 8.2oz/yd23xl left hand TWILL CLOTH 100% COTTON FABRIC (there is the greig structure of 108 warp thread/inch × 56 picks per inch) destarch, clean, bleaching, and mercerization finish.Use three dye activity dye combinations continuous dyeing fabrics to apricot.The bar this fabric being cut into 1 yard 12 inches is used for laboratory treatment.

Had by interpolation under 80 °F and come from 0.5% of chemical company dyestuff binding compositions (50% solid) with 6% of water prepares the solution containing 3% solid of having an appointment.Room padder (under being set in 40psi) carries out padding the fabric moisture rate that obtains (wet pickup) to the fabric of dyeing is by experiment 90%, and with pre-dryer and drying chamber drying.

By diluting 5 grams second acid for adjusting pH to 4.0 is utilized to prepare containing 5 grams per liters in Orange SG and 2.0 gram of DIANIXRed CC dyestuff to 1 liter orange SG and 02.0 grams per liter the dyestuff groove of Red CC.Dyestuff pads (pad) causes hydroscopicity close to 100% on fabric.At 212 °F of lower steam treatment fabrics after 40 seconds, the washing of the fabric of dyeing and drying complete this process.The surface of fabric is only had to be coloured to Chestnut.When fabric is cut or when tearing, the center of obvious fabric is still apricot.

Fabric pieces of cloth (fabric swatch) are assembled into the miniature trouser legs (miniature pant leg) of the seam feature with 5 pocket jean structures (5pocket jean construction).The Chestnut of 1.0kg and white cowboy's denim goods ballasting clothing (bull denim ballast garment) of 4.0kg are loaded in 80 pounds of Milnor sample washing machines.75 premium on currency and 2.5kg float stone add as abrasive material.Clothes is processed 1 hour under 80 °F, rinsing twice, as described above softening, extract and under 140 °F dry 40 minutes.Gained clothes has apricot, shows by seam and a little in the flat site of false trouser legs (mock pant leg), the clothes of the old-fashioned outward appearance caused.

Embodiment #3 (yarn dyeing is to manufacture blue and coloured denim)

Select 8/1 coarse spin ring spinning (rough spun ring spun yarn) for the treatment of.Clean and bleach the yarn of 1.0kg, and the yarn of 1.0kg is used as spinning (spun).Under 80 °F, use aforementioned urethane polymer and water to prepare mixture (comprising the dyestuff binding compositions comprising 3% solid).Use single warp sizing application apparatus (single end size application apparatus), solution is padded on every one thread.What clean is 120% with the hydroscopicity of the yarn of bleaching, causes the solid additive of 3.6%.The hydroscopicity of untreated yarn is 90%, causes the solid additive of 2.7%.Forced hot air oven drying two kinds of samples are passed through 3 minutes with 100 ms/min at 90 DEG C.All sense of touch is smooth for these two kinds of yarns.

Cross in 3 × 1 left hand twill weave structures have 32 warp thread/inch 4.5/1 100% cotton chain (warp) on weft direction (filling direction) by the yarn weft weaving denim of insertion 50 and 58 weft yarn (pick)/inch process.Leaving this fabric width of loom is 59 inches.

Embodiment #3A (the denim dyeing in washing process)

Clothes are built without further processing.Be used in color evaluation at structure trouser legs and clothes, made by icon indicia half-twist the yarn processed be positioned at the longitudinal direction of trouser legs.Before structure clothes, fabric is heated 3 minutes to guarantee that polymer fully solidifies at 325 °F.

The trouser legs of 5.0kg are loaded the Milnor sample washing machine into 80 pounds.Add 75 premium on currency (15:1) and use 15ml acetic acid that pH is adjusted to 4.0.Before being added to washing machine, by 100g's in the water of 160 °F of Blue UN-SE (2.0%OWG) pre-dilution to 1.0 liter.With 5 °F per minute by temperature raise until reach 180 °F.Keep after 1 hour at 180 °F, turned letter water and by twice rinsing by clothes 120 °F of rinsings 5 minutes.Add 50 grams of Ampak Softener Flekes with softening clothes.Take out clothes and 160 °F of dryings 50 minutes.Finished product trouser legs have the jean sample outward appearance having grinding, are characterized by and wherein exist less at seam region, pocket and waistband place or do not have coloured region.Dyestuff is not by the stock-dye under untreated cotton weft yarn or polymer substrate.

Embodiment #3B (dyeing denim with multiple color)

Except dying blue coarse jean color, repeat embodiment #3A, the dye combinations in use table 1 dyes orange, redness, fluorescein, and green:

Table 1

For the production of the dye formulation of coloured jean

Embodiment #3C (dye denim before structure clothes)

Adopt the fabric from embodiment #3 and cut into 12 inch band of 59 inches long at width.By by 20 grams blue UN-SE is diluted in the water of 1 liter 120 °F and prepares dye cell.By the acetic acid adding 1.0 grams, pH is adjusted to 4.0.Fabric by dye solution tie dyeing and 212 °F of steam treatment 40 seconds, by case (box) rinsing under 160 °F, and dry in pressure air-oven.By identical fabric by identical as mentioned above dye cell tie dyeing, dry in pre-dryers and drying chamber, and be heated to 400 °F and continue 30 seconds.Build false trouser legs (mock pant leg) and in 35 pounds of Milnor washing machines, wash 60 minute to strengthen grinding at 80 °F with the non-ionic surface active agent of 1g/l and the float stone of circle.Groove is declined, again pours into, add softening agent, be heated to 120 °F and continue 5 minutes, extract and drying.The false trouser legs obtained have the jean sample outward appearance of the negligible dyeing grinding and have untreated cotton fiber at seam crossing.

Embodiment #4 (dyestuff being applied to the fiber being difficult to dye)

By comprising the cut resistant gloves of the complex yarn structure of (ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene manufactured by DSM Dyneema LLC) and nylon.Clothes are weighed and prepare for the treatment of.This effort being difficult to the fiber dyeed of before dyeing all fails.

The solution of 3% solid is produced thus preparation vessel (bath) by the 80 °F of water dyestuff binding compositions comprising 50% solid carbamate solution of 300 grams being mixed to 5 liters.The clothes of 1kg to be immersed in groove and to soak 1 minute.Remove clothes, extract, and retain the carbamate solution of 40%.In combustion gas drier, (gas fired drier) dry clothes under 160 °F continue 30 minutes.The clothes of process are carried out drying as follows:

The water of 19 liters 80 °F and the clothes of 1kg process are added in the Milnor machine of 35 pounds.Before being added to groove, by 10 grams lum Yellow 10g (1%OWG) is added in the water of 200 grams 160 °F with dissolved powders dyestuff.Dilute the fluorescent pigment dyestuff (Trichromatic-Tricotex FL Yellow) of 80 grams with the water of 80 °F of 800ml and be added to groove.With 5 °F of speed per minute by mixture heating until reach 160 °F and keep 30 minutes at such a temperature.Groove is declined, with cold rinse clothes twice, and extracts clothes subsequently and under 140 °F dry 30 minutes.Clothes are fluorescein colors, and after 5 washing/drying circulations, show excellent color stability.

Embodiment #5

The 8.2oz/yd of the greig structure of 108 warp thread (end)/inch × 56 weft yarn (pick)/inch will be had ²3 × 1 left hand TWILL CLOTH 100% COTTON FABRIC destarch, washing, rinsing and mercerization finish.The solution of 4.1% solid is comprised by the dyestuff binding compositions be made up of urethane material and water (80 °F) preparation adding 6.9%.The ironer (mangle) of 20psi is set in the lab by the fabric tie dyeing of 12 of 10 linear yard inches wide by rolling point pressure.The pick up of fabric is 72%, causes the fabric solid of 3.0% to increase.By fabric is continued 2 minutes 5 seconds process fabrics by the pressure air-oven being set to 375 °F.With COLOR FASTNESS, light fastness, the dye durability of the multiple dyestuff of the fabric evaluation of this process.The hydroscopicity that dyestuff obtains about 75% is applied by contaminating and extrude excessive dyestuff from fabric.Under 218 °F with saturated vapor by fabric steam process 50 seconds.The fabric dyeed with the hot water of 165 °F and 0.01% surfactant rinsing is to remove excessive dyestuff.Dry fabric and evaluate fastness properties.The result of the multiple dyestuff evaluated has been shown in following table 2:

In order to the performance of evaluation test material, the grade of 1.0 to 5.0 is graded.The grade of 1.0 represents significant change color; 5.0 grades represent do not have change color.The grade of more than 3.5 is commonly referred to be good.For dyestuff listed above, multiple and be not suitable for this application.If only evaluate washability, there is the dyestuff of poor washability, as lum Red G may show as poor material standed for; But if the fluorescein of requirement, then this dyestuff can be uniquely available selection.For the dyestuff with poor light fastness, chemical addition agent can be bonded to polymeric blends with improving SNR.For the dyestuff with poor ozone fastness, after the wet-treating through this performance can be improved, material can be obtained.

Embodiment #5A-utilizes multiple technologies to dye

In order to evaluate the impact of staining technique on fastness properties, in laboratory by the fabric that three kinds of method process are treated, and evaluate COLOR FASTNESS characteristic:

The tie dyeing of colouring method 1:10g/l dyestuff, steam treatment, washing, and dry

The tie dyeing of colouring method 2:10g/l dyestuff, predrying, tank is dry, to dye 50 seconds, washing dry at 416 °F of lower thermosols.

Colouring method 3: on the fabric of same pieces 416 °F of lower colouring method 1 & thermosols dye 50 seconds, washing and dry).

COLOR FASTNESS result is shown in table 3

First pair of technology successfully produces acceptable dyeing.It seems that tie dyeing steam option provide best light fastness and wash durability results, may due to the minimized dyeing of untreated cotton and the dyestuff preventing fabric face too much.

The process of the cotton stockinette of embodiment #6-

Before dyeing, be there is by destarch, alkaline washing, rinsing and mercerization finish preparation the 7.8oz/yd of the finished construct of 109 warp thread/inch × 50 picks per inch ²3 × 1 left hand TWILL CLOTH 99/1 cotton/Spandex (Spandex) fabrics (comprising 20/1Ring Spum Warp and 10/1 open warp thread (open end)+14/1+70 Denier spandex weft yarn).By add acetic acid be adjusted to pH be 5.8 carbamic acid ester admixture (there is 4.1% solid) process fabric.The hydroscopicity of 72% causes the fabric solid of 3.0% to pick up (solid pickup).At fabric drying with before solidifying in drying chamber, humidity is reduced to about 45%.

Embodiment #6A

In tie dyeing steam zone, textile dyeing becomes multiple shade (shade).The work of laboratory mid-early stage shows that, under the chemicals applying level of 3.0%, most medium shade (shade) can be mated.A kind of color selected is Spiced Orange.This color formulas comprises:

Table 4

Spiced Orange dye formulation is applied with 75 yards of process fabrics per minute by the Kuster tie dyeing equipment (Kuster pad) of the hydroscopicity with record 75%.After processing 50 seconds by tight-binding system steam generator (tight laced steamer) at 216 °F, fixed dye.Considerably less excess dye is observed in washing process.Drying, refining and anti-shrinking (sanforize) are carried out to remove contraction to fabric.

The multiple physical property of detection fabric as described below and fastness properties parameter.Compared with after fine finishining, before fine finishining, washing fastness is better.Chemicals in fine finishining may be reason.Fabric is made clothes and wet-treating.After wet-treating, washing fastness improves, and shade (shade) only reduces by 15 to 20% (except seam crossings and manual grinding region).

table 5

Table 6

The wet-treating of embodiment #6B-Spiced Orange clothes

Be women's dress jean by fabric structure, cut into size 6.The increase of 4 groups of clothes, process to be made up of 3 clothes and the often group of the 1.0kg that weighs to evaluate washing methods to whole outward appearance and aesthstic impact.Washing methods comprises:

A) rinsing-clean 20 minutes with softening agent under 120 °F

B) 20 minutes enzymes wash-under 125 °F, clean 20 minutes with acidicenzym, the bating step of 10 minutes under the bating step of 120 °F subsequently

C) granite-wash+20 minutes enzymes of 20 minutes wash-clean 20 minutes at 100 °F of float stones with 2:1 and clothes ratio, then rinsing cleans 20 times with acidicenzym under 125 °F, 10 minutes subsequently bating step

D) granite-wash in 40 minutes+20 minutes enzymes wash-clean 40 minutes, then rinsing at 100 °F of float stones with 2:1 and clothes ratio, under 125 °F, clean 20 times with acidicenzym, 10 minutes subsequently bating step

Rinsing is softening fabrics feel effectively, and observes very little of not grinding.The color similarity of color and the clothes to be constructed by a garment dye yarn-dyed fabric.In multiple clothes, before washing, the leg portion of sand papering clothes in advance.In all cases, the region of these sand paperings seems more shallow and wears into white in the region of more serious sand papering, cotton outward appearance of being unstained.The clothes that enzyme is washed 20 minutes have shade reduction (shade drop) of about 10% and slightly grind at the bottom (bottom hem) of latasuture, strap lug and each leg.The region of sand papering is obviously more shallow than the region for non-sand papering.

Granite-wash is added the outward appearance this method providing grinding, usually see ring dyeing or padding fabric.Grinding after 40 minutes more greatly compared with the situation of 20 minutes, and two kinds of clothes have excellent grinding and can not cause any remarkable destruction to the integrality of clothes.Generally for the outward appearance obtaining comparable grinding in similar clothes, use classical staining technique, need the granite-wash more than twice and usually observe the physical damnification to clothes.

Before granite-wash, the region of the clothes of manual sand papering is almost white in the region of severe sand papering.Causing this color to be broken up is because between processing period, once in the solution, the dyestuff of selection can not repeated deposition on fabric.Finally, after processing, softening, dry clothes, after wet-treating, other Gao Guang (additional highlight) can easily be set up by manual sand papering.This ability is can be used for wet-treating device to add new dimension with the option of the designer finding new innovation clothes.

The yarn treatment of embodiment #7-100% cotton and ambient influnence

The cotton warp of the thick 20/1Ring Spun 100% (warp) be included on 4260 warp thread (end) is processed by the case (box) comprising the carbamic acid ester admixture be made up of 9% solid.Impregnated yarn and after removing excessive material with the compression roller being set to 45psi, the hydroscopicity recording 105% causes the solid of yarn 5% to increase.When wet, be separated each yarn, and 150 °F of dryings 50 seconds, be set to the vapor can of 275 °F subsequently to guarantee fabric drying and polymer substrate solidification.Under these conditions, in tank, do not observe steam, show before arrival tank, yarn bone dry.The yarn of process is wrapped on loom beam (loom beam), and weaves on Picanol air-jet loom.Fabric weaving is become to have 71 inches of per inch 60 warp thread and per inch 60 weft yarn to produce fabric by plain weave structure, and it, once dye, will produce stripe effect (chambray effect).Illustrate stripe effect by the plain weave structure being less than 6oz/yd2, wherein, only warp thread or longitudinal yarn are colored and weft yarn maintenance white.Striped (chambray) sees indigo usually, and wherein, warp thread dyes in bipseudoindoxyl dye scope.Painted striped is minimum because of dyestuff, the ability of matching color and relevant cost, usually unavailable.The striped produced by the present invention can pass through the fabric of washing and bleaching via common preparation method and prepare.Dissipate from the time of water drop contact fabric face to when it, the absorbance (absorbancy) of the fabric of preparation is less than 1 second.After preparation, process with the whiteness of untreated fabric not in difference.

The preparation of the warp of embodiment #7A-process and dyeing

The preparation of the yarn of embodiment #7A-process and dyeing

By applying to comprise the sodium hydroxide solution of 4% and the detergent compositions of EDTA type chelating agent (ethylenediamine tetra-acetic acid) and alkali stable surfactant system, at the fabric of continuous print bleaching scope washing from embodiment #7.By steam treatment fabric 10 minutes and rinsing completes washing process.Subsequently, before cleaning and drying, with the rinsing preparation laundering of textile fabrics 25 minutes comprising hydrogen peroxide, NaOH, organic stabilizer and chelating agent.Be important to note that dyestuff binding compositions disclosed herein allows washing and bleaching process occur unexpectedly, and the dyestuff quality of not loss material.Comparatively speaking, if with washing and bleaching preparations process, colouring method known in the art causes a large amount of losses of dyestuff on material.

Use by 7.0g/ liter the preparation that the Black CA-B that Navy CC and 2.0g/ rises forms, with having 75%WPU's fabric is dyed navy blue (navy color) at the steam zone of 75 yards/minute by tie dyeing equipment (pad).By fabric being continued 50 seconds fixed dyes by tight-binding system steam generator (tight laced steamer) under 216 °F and cleaning subsequently.The fabric produced by this experiment is the fabric with striped appearance and aesthetic beauty that use 100% cotton is produced.This is by selecting not dyed cotton thus the dyestuff of the coating on warp thread that only dyes realizes.Realized by violent washing the effort minimizing dyeing cotton after steam generator.Fastness properties and especially light fastness performance are the functions removing the validity of surface dye from the untreated cotton parts of blend.The initial light fastness recording this experiment according to AATCC 16-E after 20 hours is 1.5.On the sample of solid fabric process, identical dye formulations has the initial light fastness of 3.5.Depend on the amount that of short duration dyestuff retains, make between light fastness performance improvement to 2.5 to 3.0 with the other cleaning of special soap.Due to light fastness performance improvement, therefore overall washability is also improved.The fabric prepared in laboratory is dyed and is comprised following multiple color: yellow, orange, blue, purple, sepia, khaki (khakis), green, brown, plum (plum), and grey.

The importance of the method is:

1) a large amount of colors is possible

2) shade (shade) coupling can be completed fast

3) minimum of a value becomes less problem

4) laundering of textile fabrics still retains tone (hue)

5) significant ambient influnence

Embodiment #8-ambient influnence

Based on the wet-treating result of the fabric from embodiment #3 and #7, and based on for the production of washing the method well set up in the industry of lower indigo jean jean, respective ambient influnence can be determined.Comprise pre-wash, bleaching, yarn dyeing and ready-made clothes the condition of wet method processing be the part evaluated.For indigo jean, imagination wet method processing will comprise destarch, permanganate spray, bleaching, with neutral cellulase and grinding-material grinding, soften and dry.By the result in table #7, the impact of the present invention on the environment area of coverage (environmental footprint) of wet-treating is very significant.

Table 7

Table #7 is the present invention on the explanation of the impact of the biodegradable waste product that usual relevant to textiles, special and jean is correlated with.The processing of indigo jean clothes needs to remove the sizing agent (sizing material) being generally starch form usually.This only represents about 6% of the gross weight of jean.Amylase and cellulase, cellulose and dyestuff account for remaining percentage.The material major part that the fabric processed by carbamate removes carrys out the cellulose degradation that free cellulase promotes.Compared to normal process, this causes the minimizing of the biodegradable solid of about 80%.Do not use common oxidation material, as hypochlorite bleaching or potassium permanganate material can obtain the fabric of carbamate processing or the aesthetic characteristic of yarn.This eliminate in the method heavy metal as the needs of manganese.Finally, most wet-treating can complete with less rinsing at lower temperatures, cause time, the water of processing clothes, and energy reduces by 40 to 60% in conjunction with this technology.

The concentration of embodiment #9-chemicals, on the impact of the shade degree of depth with when needing higher dye absorber, realizes the method for shade

In developing process, seem restricted to the amount of dyestuff, namely urethane material can be bonded to surface matrix.Think that this level depends on the concentration of the carbamate solid being applied to fabric.Apply 3.0%, 5.0%, and the solid of 6.5% level shows the applying technology with the chemical mixture described in embodiment #5, and the degree of depth of solid to color of increase has very little of being no advantage.When dye strength is increased to 15 grams often liter from 5 grams often liter, work as evaluation during BLUE S-BG, for all 4 kinds of chemical horizontal applications, there is the linear effects (see Fig. 1) that color builds.When applying solid in the step in multiple applying/solidification, dye productivity under 5% solid double and under 6.5% solid increase by 250%.The color productive rate of this increase can realize darker color.

In FIG, for the lightest sample (swatch, pieces of cloth), the intensity settings of standard is 100%.All samples compare with the lightest sample.For all product dyed therebies manufactured by fabric (having single applying chemicals), dyestuff output is very linearly up to 15g/l and is increased to 15g/l from 5.0g/l, causes intensity to increase by 80%.

When second time by time apply other chemical solids time, there occurs two kinds of results, first dyestuff output slope along with dye strength increase (from 80% intensity increase) be changed to 140%.Secondly, for passing twice through the dyestuff output of applying 5.0% solid close to double, and for passing twice through the situation of applying 6.5% solid, the degree of depth of shade adds 2.5 times.

When needing the larger shade degree of depth, by the method processing fabric passed twice through.

Embodiment #10-after with float stone wet-treating, with specific yarn treatment fabric to obtain old-fashioned outward appearance (vintage appearance)

Be there is by destarch, washing, bleaching and the preparation of mercerization finish fabric the 10.8oz/yd of the greig structure of 80 warp thread (end)/inch × 46 weft yarn (pick)/inch and the finished construct (comprising Amsler Ring Spum 9.75 warp thread (warp yarn) and 10/1+70 Denier Spandex) of 93 warp thread (end)/inch and 48 weft yarns (pick)/inch ²the cotton spandex (Spandex) of 98/2.Before the yarn production technology introducing the precision of producing uneven yarn, the yarn that the Amsler technology that spins produces reflection inconsistency a large amount of in spinning at large spins.This Amsler technology that spins produces slubbing (slub) in the yarn.This fabric is as the process described in embodiment #5.DYED FABRICS-colouring method #1 as described in embodiment 5A passes through via dye formulations (by 10g/l blue S-BG forms) tie dyeing steam zone.The fabric of thorough cleaning, dry dyeing, and be configured to jean sample trouser legs.Under 90 °F, trouser legs 50 minutes are washed to evaluate the impact of the crude joint part of stone abutment joint and Amsler warp thread (warp yarn) with float stone in Washex 250lb machine.The trouser legs of the washing obtained show in the grinding of seam with the excellence in the thicker place of uneven warp thread (warp yarn).Can observe insignificant painted (when washing indigo jean, this problem is main concern) of the cotton yarn under grinding height point in the yarn.After drying, due to the abrasive action of float stone, some crinosity shape of the trouser legs of acquisition.Carry out some other manual sand paperings to show even larger contrast between slubbing and the surface of fabric.By leaving a seam of trouser legs to provide enough length to measure in parallel, the technology of improvement is used to extend to evaluate and increase.Except this changes, test the clothes of cleaning according to ASTM D-3107.Stretch (stretch) be 24% and increase (growth) be 5.2%.

With untreated yarn, what embodiment #11-combination processed thinks that jean and striped produce new fringing design (selvedge design).

Adopt 16 warp thread (end) of 20/1 of the yarn from embodiment #7 process and be combined with 12 warp thread of 20/1 yarn of the fabric from destarch, washing, bleaching and mercerization finish.The template (yarn processed with 6 be separated from each other about 0.5mm) of crossing 12 inches configures yarn, 6 untreated yarns subsequently, the yarns of 2 process subsequently, the yarns of 6 untreated yarns and 6 process, 28 one threads altogether.Wash, bleach and mercerization finish 16/1Ring Spun yarn with have 30 one thread per inch plain weave structure braiding.2 inches by hand needle knitting.Banded afterbody be stitched into guide fabric (leader fabric) and as describe in embodiment #5A-colouring method #1 by tie dyeing steam treatment.Dye formulations is by 7.0g/l's blue S-BG forms.The ribbon of 2 inches obtained is about 1.5 inches.When untreated warp thread (warp yarn) and white weft yarn (filling yarn) together time, obtain and there are two white ribbons of meticulous stainable bands.This clearly illustrates that when the suitable dyestuff continuous dyeing of fabric, may produce band.White yarn is observed some dyeing; But, process and show between untreated yarn and contrast clearly.

The process of embodiment #12-fire retardant fabric makes color be difficult to the fibre staining of dyeing

Before treatment, by 55/45Protex C modified acrylic fibre (modacrylic)/combed cotton (combed cotton) 6.9oz/yd ²plain woven fabric destarch, washing and bleaching.As the process fabric described in embodiment #5.With the tie dyeing steaming process described in embodiment #5A-colouring method #1, use appended preparation, DYED FABRICS is to produce bright fireman's red shade (bright firehouse red shade).

Table 8

The vertical flammability of test fabric.When test according to ASTM D-6413 at first and after washing for three times according to AATCC 135IV-Ai (120 °F with detergent), result shows that adding carbamate does not change after-flame (after flame) and char length (char length) characteristic.This is used to the identical washing methods assessing warp and the DIMENSIONAL STABILITY of weft direction.All be less than 4 inches in the char length of warp and weft direction, and the tail-off time is less than 0.5 second.As described in the present embodiment, process is applied to red shade (shade) is produced in success; But due to the color distinction of the matrix of process, color is more yellow than the cotton blend of protex C/.Before treatment, be golden yellow, and be Chinese red after treatment.Respectively based on the result of the dyeing of these materials, structure 50/40/10Protex C/ combed cotton/para-aramid, and be used for potential business application by dying identical red shade.

The polyacrylic process of embodiment #13-

There are 30 inches of 4.0oz/yd of 24 warp thread and 24 weft yarns ²plain weave braiding fabric (comprising 625 Denier polypropylene yarn), the carbamic acid ester admixture comprising 4.1% solid by tie dyeing by the ironer being set to 20psi processes.The hydroscopicity recording 60% causes the solid of matrix 2.5% to increase.In assignment baking box (dispatch oven), under 180 °F, drying and solidification fabric continue 5 minutes.As described in embodiment #5A-colouring method #1, textile dyeing is made to produce saturated gray scale shade (saturated Gray shade) with following preparation.

Table 9

Illustrative embodiments comprises:

Jean sample fabric and clothes comprise cotton or cotton/synthetic fiber, by application comprise carbamate, guanidine and vinyl halide family polymer and additive or there is no additive (it isolate dyestuff, wherein, combination of polymers preferably dyes compared with cellulose fibre) the dyestuff binding compositions of mixture produce.Combination of polymers preferably dyes and produces ring dyed yarn (it can grind with the form of clothes subsequently) compared with cellulose fibre.

In some embodiments of jean sample fabric and clothes, before with dyestuff (not being direct dyeing (substantive) for cellulosic material) braided fabric, therebetween or afterwards, dyed yarn or fabric.In this embodiment, dyestuff does not have the tendency with fibrin reaction or adhering fibre element.When dyestuff binding compositions is only made up of carbamate or mixes with cellulose esters wherein, optionally dyestuff, if diffuser dyestuff is preferred.Dyestuff binding compositions is by with producing carbamate that the guanidine of cationic polymer is combined and form when wherein, and the vinyl sulfone that also can make cotton dyeing or monochloro can be used for the acidity of hydrazine family or chemically-reactive dyes.In these blends polyester and cotton blended, use cationic polymer be preferred method.

In some embodiments of jean sample fabric and clothes, dyestuff binding compositions is with urethane emulsions polymer and cellulose powder acetic acid esters proportion 90:10 to 50:50, or the proportion 90:10 to 75:25 of urethane emulsions polymer and cellulose powder comprises the urethane emulsions polymer blended with cellulose powder acetic acid esters.This blend is contained in the aqueous solution containing 50% solid, and it is in application to yarn, fabric, or before clothes, dilutes further.

Fabric and clothes can with the forms of the form of yarn, fabric, or the form selective dye of clothes (it has preferred attraction for cellulose ethanoate and/or urethane polymer) dyeing.

In some embodiments, provide such method, at least one polymer is comprised (wherein via applying by the method, dyestuff binding compositions preferably dyes compared with cellulose fibre, produce the yarn of ring dyeing, it can grind with the form of clothes subsequently) dyestuff binding compositions, can producd fibers, yarn, fabric and clothes.

In some embodiments of the method, before with dyestuff (for cellulosic material not direct dyeing (substantive)) braided fabric, therebetween or afterwards, dyed yarn or fabric.When dyestuff binding compositions is made up of the carbamate mixed with cellulose esters wherein, preferred selective dye.Wherein dyestuff binding compositions by time producing carbamate that the guanidine of cationic polymer is combined and form when, the vinyl sulfone that also can make cotton dyeing or monochloro can be used for the acidity of hydrazine family or chemically-reactive dyes.In these blends polyester and cotton blended, use cationic polymer be preferred method.

In some embodiments, the method comprises by the cotton knitting or woven fabric of reactive sulphur, vat, naphthol dye dyeing that (weight is from 3 to 14oz/yd ²change) with pre-staining matrix.Described above subsequently, apply dyestuff binding compositions and use selective dye (it invests polymer substrate, but the dyed color under not painted or dyed polymers) that solidification dyestuff conjugated polymer color substrates is become different colors subsequently.The dyeing of polymer can complete with the form of the form of clothes or fabric.Can DYED FABRICS by vibrator (jigger), pad dyeing/drying/hot melt adhesive, pad dyeing/steam and/or jet dyeing.Thus method produce clothes with comprise float stone, sand, plastics abrading-ball etc. various abrasive materials wet-treating during grind, obtain the clothes at places such as seam, rear pocket, the bottoms with grinding, by producing its color allowing performance initial of tonal effect (tonal effect).

In further embodiment, the method comprises the dyestuff binding compositions comprising urethane polymer material is applied to fiber, yarn, fabric, or clothes, and it comprises the material being difficult to dye, and comprises polyphenyl formamide azoles (polybenzamidazole) (PBI), with their blend, film is provided on material surface that dyestuff binders can be attached to it.This dyestuff binding compositions can dye by selective dye and this polymer substrate can further with pigment and other colouring agents (it can be adhered to by the effect of acrylic acid with other conjugated polymer materials) dyeing.

Although described some illustrative embodiments and shown in the drawings, it should be understood that these embodiments be only exemplary and be not used to limit the present invention, and the present invention is not restricted to the specific structure that illustrates and describe and layout, because except list at above paragraph those except, other renewal, combination, omission, amendment and replacement various is all possible.

It should be appreciated by those skilled in the art that when not deviating from scope and spirit of the present invention, the embodiment just described can configure different amendments and change.Therefore, it should be understood that within the scope of the appended claims, the present invention can be put into practice instead of as specific description herein.

Claims (24)

1., for a dyestuff binding compositions for ring coloring material, described composition comprises the carbamate base polymer of the percentage of solids had in the composition by weight between 0.5% to 50%.

2. the dyestuff binding compositions for ring coloring material according to claim 1, wherein, the described percentage of solids in described composition is between 2.0% to 12.0%.

3., according to the dyestuff binding compositions for ring coloring material according to claim 1 or claim 2, described composition comprises cationic materials further.

4. the dyestuff binding compositions for ring coloring material according to claim 4, wherein, described cationic materials is selected from the group be made up of guanidine and carbamate.

5., according to the dyestuff binding compositions for ring coloring material according to claim 1 or claim 2, described composition comprises UV inhibitor further.

6. according to the dyestuff binding compositions for ring coloring material according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein, described carbamate base polymer is dispersions of polyurethanes.

7. a ring dyed yarn, comprises:

At least one fiber; And

For the dyestuff binding compositions of ring coloring material, described composition comprises the carbamate base polymer of the percentage of solids had in the composition by weight between 0.5% to 50%.

8. ring dyed yarn according to claim 7, comprises at least one dyestuff of described dyestuff binding compositions dyeing being configured to optionally will be positioned at least part of surface of described fiber further.

9. according to claim 7 or ring dyed yarn according to claim 8, wherein, at least some in described dyestuff binding compositions is positioned at least part of surface of described fiber.

10. according to claim 7 or ring dyed yarn according to claim 8, wherein, described fiber is selected from by the following group formed: cotton, hair, silk, hemp, flax, polyester, artificial silk, acetate, nylon, spandex, alkene, polyethylene, polyethylene and polypropylene.

11. 1 kinds of fabrics, comprise:

Fiber;

For the dyestuff binding compositions of ring coloring material, described composition comprises the carbamate base polymer of the percentage of solids had in the composition by weight between 0.5% to 50%, wherein, at least some in described dyestuff binding compositions is positioned at least part of surface of described fiber; And

At least one dyestuff, is configured to optionally by painted for the described dyestuff binding compositions be positioned at least part of surface of described fiber.

12. fabrics according to claim 11, wherein, described dyestuff binding compositions comprises the cationic materials being selected from the group be made up of guanidine and carbamate further.

13. according to claim 11 or fabric according to claim 12, and wherein, described at least one dyestuff can not directly by described stock-dye.

14. according to claim 11 or fabric according to claim 12, and wherein, described fabric comprises denim goods.

15. according to claim 11 or fabric according to claim 12, and wherein, described fiber comprises at least one in cotton fiber and synthetic fiber.

16. 1 kinds of clothes, comprise:

Fabric, comprises fiber;

For the dyestuff binding compositions of ring coloring material, described composition comprises the carbamate base polymer of the percentage of solids had in the composition by weight between 0.5% to 50%, wherein, at least some in described dyestuff binding compositions is positioned at least part of surface of described fiber; And

At least one dyestuff, is configured to optionally will be positioned at the described dyestuff binding compositions dyeing at least part of surface of described fiber.

17. clothes according to claim 16, wherein, described clothes comprise and comprising with the first surface region of the described dyestuff binding compositions of described at least one dyeing, and do not comprise the second surface region of described dyestuff binding compositions.

Produce ring dyeing or the method for padding fiber, yarn, fabric or clothes for 18. 1 kinds, described method comprises:

The dyestuff binding compositions being used for ring coloring material is applied at least one in described fiber, yarn, fabric or clothes, described composition comprises the carbamate base polymer of the percentage of solids had in the composition by weight between 0.5% to 50%;

Heat described fiber, yarn, fabric or clothes, move to the surface of described fiber, yarn, fabric or clothes to make described dyestuff binding compositions; And

At least one selective dye is applied to the described at least one of described fiber, yarn, fabric or clothes, wherein, described selective dye is optionally for described dyestuff binding compositions.

19. methods according to claim 18, wherein, use described dyestuff binding compositions and described selective dye simultaneously.

20. methods according to claim 18, wherein, sequentially use described dyestuff binding compositions and described selective dye.

21., according to claim 18, claim 19 or method according to claim 20, comprise further:

Grind at least part of surface of described clothes, dyestuff binding compositions described at least some having used at least one dyeing with removing, to make described clothes have to comprise containing with the first area of the fiber of the described dyestuff binding compositions of described at least one dyeing, and comprise the second area of the fiber not containing described dyestuff binding compositions.

22. methods according to claim 21, wherein, described grinding is carried out based on following at least one:

Sand papering;

Use diatomite; And

Use float stone to described clothes.

23. according to claim 18, claim 19 or method according to claim 20, wherein, heats described dyestuff binding compositions and is undertaken by using at least one in curing oven, steam generator and heating flue.

24. according to claim 18, claim 19 or method according to claim 20, wherein, at least one in the pad dyeing steam on the dyeing of the thermosol on continuous dye scope or tenter frame, continuous knot dyeing/steam zone or flash distillation ageing machine, jet dyeing, bobbing machine dyeing, line dyeing, pad dyeing/drying/thermosol dyeing and printing is used to use described selective dye.