CN104195749B - The method of sewing of high-grade fur clothing and special suture instrument thereof - Google Patents
The method of sewing of high-grade fur clothing and special suture instrument thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN104195749B CN104195749B CN201410370685.9A CN201410370685A CN104195749B CN 104195749 B CN104195749 B CN 104195749B CN 201410370685 A CN201410370685 A CN 201410370685A CN 104195749 B CN104195749 B CN 104195749B
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- annular compression
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a kind of method of sewing of high-grade fur clothing, comprise cutting, make step, assisted by a suture instrument when making, the annular compression ring that suture instrument adopts an energy to roll on fabric, under any place of annular compression ring is pressed in sewing-machine foot, and make sewing machine needle be close to the inside edge of annular compression ring, while sewing machine needle moves ahead along the inside edge of annular compression ring, sewing-machine foot forces annular compression ring rolls forward, thus the edge making sewing machine needle can be close to annular compression ring moves ahead always, the outer ledge meanwhile controlling annular compression ring aligns with a benchmark suture.By the rolling of annular compression ring on fabric, the edge making sewing machine needle be close to pressure ring moves ahead, the dead time of long distance operation can be reduced on the one hand, accelerate speed of production, greatly increase the output of turner, output can be increased to original 2-3 doubly, and the lines made on the other hand are more straight, attractive in appearance, meet the requirement of brand business.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of method of sewing of clothes, particularly the method for sewing of high-grade fur clothing and special suture instrument thereof.
Background technology
Fur clothing adopts the Animal Skin such as ox-hide, sheepskin, through the clothes that the leather of special process processing is made, winter is busy season of leather jacket, and especially in today of leather jacket Leisure orchards, fashion-orientation increasingly, it is more subject to liking of consumer and becomes the product of selling fast that water clothes sells.High-grade fur clothing, because its cortex is soft, it is superior to do manual work and fine work that is that become in clothes, such as adopts sheepskin, the special flexible of fur clothing that goat skin is made, and extensibility is large, and feel is as velvet.But how to make high-grade finished product fur clothing goods, industry urgent problem always.Cortex fabric selected by fur clothing its sliding compared with common fabric fabric is larger, when therefore making, difficulty is also larger, high-grade fur clothing requires that the lines made are straight when making, attractive in appearance, especially the fur clothing surface of fashion-orientation needs to press open-wire line, during pressure open-wire line, suture requires straight and can not take out stitches, between suture, the width at interval wants self-consistentency, can not be for a moment wide for a moment thin, this is higher to the requirement of sewer, basic one-shot forming, generally need skilled worker to be competent at, if accidentally stitch askew, or there is pin hole on surface, as done over again, can lose time on the one hand, the seam trace stayed owing to taking out stitches on the other hand have impact on the quality of fur clothing, thus cause cladding to change sheet, waste raw material, there is no in the industry the effective ways of head it off at present.
Summary of the invention
Technical problem to be solved by this invention provides a kind of method of sewing of high-grade fur clothing, effectively can solve that suture in prior art is not straight, the problem of the width inconsequent at interval between suture.
In order to solve the problems of the technologies described above, the following technical scheme of the present invention:
A kind of method of sewing of high-grade fur clothing, comprise cutting, make step, it is characterized in that: assisted by a suture instrument when making, the annular compression ring that suture instrument adopts an energy to roll on fabric, under any place of annular compression ring is pressed in sewing-machine foot, and make sewing machine needle be close to the inside edge of annular compression ring, while sewing machine needle moves ahead along the inside edge of annular compression ring, sewing-machine foot forces annular compression ring rolls forward, thus the edge making sewing machine needle can be close to annular compression ring moves ahead always, the outer ledge meanwhile controlling annular compression ring aligns with a benchmark suture.
The thickness D of described annular compression ring is 0.1 ~ 0.15 ㎝, and the diameter of annular compression ring is 25 ~ 35 ㎝.
Described annular compression ring adopts the flexible material of toughness to make.
During split parting position, first 1cm stitches split, then the split line that overlaps rolls over a side seam pressure 0.15cm seam.
The present invention also provides a kind of for the special suture instrument in high-grade fur clothing method of sewing, its feature is in being: this suture instrument is provided with the annular compression ring that mounting bracket and an energy roll on fabric, mounting bracket is positioned at the top of Sewing machines, mounting bracket is provided with slide rail and slide block, slide block can along slide rail slide anteroposterior, slide block is provided with connector, annular compression ring is connected with a stretch cord that can stretch by little suspension ring, annular compression ring is can flexible rotating with little suspension ring contact position, and stretch cord is connected with connector.
The present invention compared with prior art, there is following beneficial effect: by the rolling of annular compression ring on fabric, the edge making sewing machine needle be close to pressure ring moves ahead, the dead time of long distance operation can be reduced on the one hand, accelerate speed of production, greatly increase the output of turner, output can be increased to original 2-3 doubly, the lines made on the other hand are more straight, attractive in appearance, meet the requirement of brand business.Stretch cord directly can pull down operation when using, and length is free adjustment as required, and the used time does not lodge the selfer power of stretch cord, makes annular compression ring be retracted in above head of sewing machine, does not affect the normal production operation of parking stall, very convenient, convenient.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is the structural representation of special suture instrument;
Fig. 2 is special suture instrument using state figure;
Fig. 3 is split parting position schematic diagram;
Fig. 4 is fur clothing cuff position schematic diagram.
Detailed description of the invention
The following description and drawings illustrate specific embodiment of the invention scheme fully, to enable those skilled in the art to put into practice them.The scope of embodiment of the present invention comprises the gamut of claims, and all obtainable equivalent of claims.In this article, these embodiments of the present invention can be represented with term " invention " individually or always, this is only used to conveniently, and if in fact disclose the invention more than, be not the scope that automatically will limit this application is any single invention or inventive concept.
See Fig. 1, Fig. 2, the present invention relates to a kind of method of sewing of high-grade fur clothing and a kind of for the special suture instrument in this high-grade fur clothing method of sewing.
The method of sewing of the high-grade fur clothing of the present invention mainly comprises two large steps: cutting and make step.
One, cutting step:
1) skin is cut out: in order to meet the uniformity of fur clothing outward appearance, leather point should be noted in use towards epithelium tail down, vertical cutting, because horizontal cut-parts can affect the vertical sense of one integral piece clothes.The anter of clothes, rear panel, sleeve and other positions can carry out arranging cutting together, meanwhile, also to guarantee every sheet garment piece not unfilled corner, do not have inferior, garment piece can not bounce back after having cut out.Because leather is flexible, skin graft cut out lower after to again check with model, look at that whether size consistent, skin limit can not more than 0.3 centimetre with model limit difference size, and the oxter pine skin length of use can not more than 10 centimetres, wide can not more than 3 centimetres.When cutting, notice that the position of each segmentation will get position ready, in before these bit representations, rear in, the corresponding mark at side and each position, be also conveniently making below, make fur clothing symmetrical neat.Also to make mark just leading, in the face batching such as positive waistband, mix up in order to avoid link is below positive and negative.Every sheet garment piece is necessary
Clip is beaten at the corresponding site of every money garment piece.Also to carry out self-inspection after garment piece cuts out, look to be the few sheet of multi-disc.After self-inspection terminates, in order leather is stacked neatly, is smoothly placed in basket, deliver to below test sheet link.
2) sheet is tested: test sheet person and take the skin graft cut and test.Open garment piece, pave pendulum and carry out testing sheet to multiple sheet plate.First whether split anter, rear panel, sleeve sheet corresponding site surface texture, color, thickness degree be consistent, require that garment piece can not differ 0.3cm with multiple sheet board size, unfilled corner can not more than 0.2-0.3cm, oxter pine skin can not, 10cm wide more than 3cm long, check whether every sheet garment piece has clip, and and model correspondence.Note one integral piece clothes effect during inspection, the thickness degree of cladding wants consistent, and cladding texture is fine and glossy, no color differnece phenomenon, affects must changing of clothes whole structure.Check
Just expect, as just led, whether positive pkt. flap etc. make corresponding mark.
3) pressure lining: pressure lining presses the thin lining of one deck exactly on garment piece, and lining cloth is here ready in advance.According to the demand of each style, corresponding lining cloth is scalded at the different parts such as anter, rear panel, pocket, muffs, eckband of garment piece, open pressure lining machine, according to the feature of different cladding, pressure lining machine temperature is transferred to 1 DEG C---between 110 DEG C, maximum temperature must not more than 120 DEG C, and general time controling is in 7-10 second.Running speed controls between 4-5 shelves.Here first can test with leather point, then carry out pressure lining.
4) do lining: lining has cut by model, directly make.Lining can not reel off raw silk from cocoons, the phenomenon such as aberration, the seam position of the anter of lining, rear panel, sleeve is accurate, calm, straight, and needle gage wants uniformity.Will aim at contraposition clip when making, levels can not eat lining phenomenon.
Two, step is made:
1) piece 80# eedle, needle gage 10--11 pin/3cm, during pressure open-wire line, needle gage is wanted evenly, if any
Broken line, pin hole must heavily come.
Assisted by a suture instrument when making, this suture instrument is provided with the annular compression ring 2 that mounting bracket 1 and an energy roll on fabric, mounting bracket 1 is positioned at the top of Sewing machines, mounting bracket 1 is provided with slide rail 3 and slide block 4, slide block 4 can along slide rail 3 slide anteroposterior, and slide block 4 is provided with connector, and annular compression ring is connected with a stretch cord that can stretch 6 by little suspension ring 5, annular compression ring 2 is can flexible rotating with little suspension ring 5 contact position, and stretch cord 6 is connected with connector.Little suspension ring 5 have been provided with movable bayonet, when needing the annular compression ring changing different-thickness or width, only need open movable bayonet, convenient and swift.Directly operation can be pulled down when stretch cord 6 uses, length is free adjustment as required, the used time does not lodge the selfer power of stretch cord, annular compression ring is made to be retracted in above head of sewing machine, the thickness D of annular compression ring can determine according to the thickness of cladding, the thickness D of annular compression ring is generally 0.1 ~ 0.15 ㎝, and the width L of annular compression ring mainly determines according to the width at interval between suture during pressure open-wire line, and the diameter of annular compression ring is 25 ~ 35 ㎝.Annular compression ring adopts the flexible material of toughness to make.Such as: toughness paper material etc.
When making, the front and back position of annular compression ring 2 is regulated by slide block 4, to leave behind annular compression ring 2, under any place of annular compression ring 2 is pressed in sewing-machine foot, and make sewing machine needle 7 be close to the inside edge of annular compression ring, while sewing machine needle moves ahead along the inside edge of annular compression ring, sewing-machine foot forces annular compression ring rolls forward, thus the edge making sewing machine needle can be close to annular compression ring moves ahead always, the outer ledge meanwhile controlling annular compression ring aligns with a benchmark suture 7.Adopt the lines made in this way more straight, attractive in appearance, meet the requirement of brand business, greatly increase the output of turner, output can be increased to original 2-3 doubly.
2) as shown in Figure 3, split parting position pressure 0.15cm seam (not allowing disposable pressing), first 1cm stitches split, then the split line that overlaps rolls over a side seam pressure 0.15cm seam.
3) as shown in Figure 4, the cuff of fur clothing, the bottom not line ball (splitting many), cut open margin to seam location, seam place.
The sleeve of fur clothing is one sleeve, and front and rear panel is placed in the middle without cuing open seam, and flanging cannot be located and be needed line ball.
Also should be noted that when fur clothing is made following some:
1. corium is flexible, non-stretchable during split, front little shoulder, left front, eckband, muffs front palpus FUSIBLE INTERLINING bar, and what elasticity was larger can FUSIBLE INTERLINING bar location (or determining by concrete style).
2. surface has wiring position, can not weigh pin, and surface must not seen wiring phenomenon, and the end of a thread brings reverse side knotting into, and mercerizing thread needs reverse side knotting after heat tangent line head, prevents the end of a thread landing.
3. avoid after genuine leather fabric sewing taking out stitches or surface fracture, avoid cut, must sheet be changed if any disability.
4. when pressing each position, flatiron needs shield vertical crease, can not draw flatiron, in order to avoid fabric drawn distortion or destroy glossiness.
5. fur clothing inseam does not bind off, and cut-off rule position shield presses, and unavailable flatiron directly contacts cladding, reduces spray vapour or does not spray vapour flatiron (except special leather fabric).
6. a flatiron split position, flatiron presses adjacent regions as far as possible less, except surface out-of-flatness.
7. as style have sewing pkt. flap, paste pocket corner, order the stressed annex such as waist loop, bag lip time the pin bottom that rises and falls must join fabric one side glue by pad, avoid washing brokenly or pulling open.
Above detailed description of the invention is only the better of this creation and executes example, and not in order to limit this creation, any amendment made within all spirit in this creation and principle, equivalent replacement, improvement etc., within the protection domain that all should be included in this creation.
Claims (2)
1. one kind for the special suture instrument in high-grade fur clothing method of sewing, its feature is in being: this suture instrument is provided with the annular compression ring that mounting bracket and an energy roll on fabric, mounting bracket is positioned at the top of Sewing machines, mounting bracket is provided with slide rail and slide block, slide block can along slide rail slide anteroposterior, slide block is provided with connector, annular compression ring is connected with a stretch cord that can stretch by little suspension ring, annular compression ring is can flexible rotating with little suspension ring contact position, and stretch cord is connected with connector.
2. a kind of for the special suture instrument in high-grade fur clothing method of sewing as claimed in claim 1, its feature is in being: the thickness D of described annular compression ring is 0.1 ~ 0.15 ㎝, and the diameter of annular compression ring is 25 ~ 35 ㎝.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201410370685.9A CN104195749B (en) | 2014-07-31 | 2014-07-31 | The method of sewing of high-grade fur clothing and special suture instrument thereof |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201410370685.9A CN104195749B (en) | 2014-07-31 | 2014-07-31 | The method of sewing of high-grade fur clothing and special suture instrument thereof |
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| CN104195749A CN104195749A (en) | 2014-12-10 |
| CN104195749B true CN104195749B (en) | 2016-04-13 |
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| CN201410370685.9A Active CN104195749B (en) | 2014-07-31 | 2014-07-31 | The method of sewing of high-grade fur clothing and special suture instrument thereof |
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Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US4719864A (en) * | 1987-05-11 | 1988-01-19 | The Charles Stark Draper Laboratory, Inc. | Limp material seam joining apparatus with rotatable limp material feed assembly |
| US6123039A (en) * | 1999-12-07 | 2000-09-26 | Yugen Kaisha Niiken Kogyosho | Endless-belt type walking presser foot |
| CN1397673A (en) * | 2001-06-30 | 2003-02-19 | 大和缝纫机制造株式会社 | Cloth pressuring device of sewing machine |
| CN201598406U (en) * | 2009-11-30 | 2010-10-06 | 天津市应氏服饰有限公司 | Presser foot with automatic pressing strip |
-
2014
- 2014-07-31 CN CN201410370685.9A patent/CN104195749B/en active Active
Patent Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US4719864A (en) * | 1987-05-11 | 1988-01-19 | The Charles Stark Draper Laboratory, Inc. | Limp material seam joining apparatus with rotatable limp material feed assembly |
| US6123039A (en) * | 1999-12-07 | 2000-09-26 | Yugen Kaisha Niiken Kogyosho | Endless-belt type walking presser foot |
| CN1397673A (en) * | 2001-06-30 | 2003-02-19 | 大和缝纫机制造株式会社 | Cloth pressuring device of sewing machine |
| CN201598406U (en) * | 2009-11-30 | 2010-10-06 | 天津市应氏服饰有限公司 | Presser foot with automatic pressing strip |
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| Publication number | Publication date |
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| CN104195749A (en) | 2014-12-10 |
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Address after: Lhorong road Haining city Jiaxing city Zhejiang province 314400 No. 623 Applicant after: ZHEJIANG NUOZHI CO., LTD. Address before: Lhorong road Haining city Jiaxing city Zhejiang province 314400 No. 623 Applicant before: ZHEJIANG NUOZHI FINERY CO., LTD. |
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