CN104195749A - Sewing method of top-grade leather clothing and thread sewing tool special for top-grade leather clothing - Google Patents
Sewing method of top-grade leather clothing and thread sewing tool special for top-grade leather clothing Download PDFInfo
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- CN104195749A CN104195749A CN201410370685.9A CN201410370685A CN104195749A CN 104195749 A CN104195749 A CN 104195749A CN 201410370685 A CN201410370685 A CN 201410370685A CN 104195749 A CN104195749 A CN 104195749A
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- sewing
- compression ring
- annular compression
- pressing ring
- annular pressing
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Abstract
The invention relates to a sewing method of top-grade leather clothing. The sewing method comprises the steps of tailoring and sewing. In the sewing process, a thread sewing tool is used for assistance, an annular pressing ring capable of rolling on fabric is adopted in the thread sewing tool, any position of the annular pressing ring is pressed below a sewing machine presser foot, a sewing machine needle is made to be close to the inner edge of the annular pressing ring, the sewing machine needle advances along the inner edge of the annular pressing ring, meanwhile, the sewing machine presser foot enables the annular pressing ring to roll forwards, therefore, the sewing machine needle can be always close to the edge of the annular pressing ring to advance, and meanwhile the outer edge of the annular pressing ring is controlled to be aligned to a standard sewing thread. Due to the fact that the annular pressing ring rolls on the fabric, the sewing machine needle is close to the edge of the pressing ring to advance, and on the one hand, the dwell time of the long-distance operation can be reduced, the production speed is improved, the throughput of lathe workers is greatly improved, and the throughput can be improved to two to three times the original throughput; on the other hand, the sewn line is more straight and attractive, and meets the requirement of brand owners.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of method of sewing of clothes, particularly the method for sewing of high-grade fur clothing and special suture instrument thereof.
Background technology
Fur clothing is to adopt the Animal Skin such as ox-hide, sheepskin, the clothes of making through the leather of special process processing, be the busy season of leather jacket winter, and especially in leather jacket today of leisure, fashion-orientation increasingly, it is more subject to liking of consumer and becomes the product of selling fast that water clothes is sold.High-grade fur clothing is because of its cortex softness, the superior fine work becoming in clothes of doing manual work, and such as the special flexible of fur clothing that adopts sheepskin, goat skin to make, extensibility is large, and feel is as velvet.But how to make high-grade finished product fur clothing goods, industry urgent problem always.Cortex fabric with common fabric fabric compared with its sliding selected due to fur clothing is larger, therefore while making, difficulty is also larger, the lines that when high-grade fur clothing is made, requirement is made are straight, attractive in appearance, especially open-wire line need to be pressed in the fur clothing surface of fashion-orientation, while pressing open-wire line, suture requires straight and can not take out stitches, between suture, the width at interval is wanted self-consistentency, can not be for a moment wide for a moment thin, this has relatively high expectations to sewer's, basic one-shot forming, generally to need skilled worker to be competent at, if accidentally stitch askew, or there is pin hole on surface, as done over again, can lose time on the one hand, the seam trace staying owing to taking out stitches has on the other hand affected the quality of fur clothing, thereby cause cladding to change sheet, waste raw material, there is no in the industry at present the effective ways of head it off.
Summary of the invention
Technical problem to be solved by this invention provides a kind of method of sewing of high-grade fur clothing, can effectively solve that suture in prior art is not straight, the problem of the width inconsequent at interval between suture.
In order to solve the problems of the technologies described above, the following technical scheme of the present invention:
A kind of method of sewing of high-grade fur clothing, comprise cutting, make step, it is characterized in that: auxiliary by a suture instrument while making, suture instrument adopts an annular compression ring that energy rolls on fabric, any place of annular compression ring is pressed under sewing-machine foot, and make sewing machine needle be close to the inside edge of annular compression ring, when sewing machine needle moves ahead along the inside edge of annular compression ring, sewing-machine foot forces annular compression ring to roll forward, thereby the edge that makes sewing machine needle can always be close to annular compression ring moves ahead, the outer ledge of meanwhile controlling annular compression ring aligns with a benchmark suture.
The thickness D of described annular compression ring is 0.1～0.15 ㎝, and the diameter of annular compression ring is 25～35 ㎝.
Described annular compression ring adopts the flexible material of toughness to make.
When at amalgamation parting the position, the amalgamation of first 1cm seam, then the split line that overlaps is rolled over a side seam pressure 0.15cm seam.
The present invention also provides a kind of special suture instrument for high-grade fur clothing method of sewing, its feature is in being: this suture instrument is provided with mounting bracket and an annular compression ring that energy rolls on fabric, mounting bracket is positioned at the top of Sewing machines, mounting bracket is provided with slide rail and slide block, slide block can slide before and after slide rail, slide block is provided with connector, annular compression ring can be connected by flexible stretch cord with one by little suspension ring, annular compression ring is can flexible rotating with little suspension ring contact position, and stretch cord is connected with connector.
The present invention compared with prior art, there is following beneficial effect: the rolling by annular compression ring on fabric, the edge that makes sewing machine needle be close to pressure ring moves ahead, can reduce on the one hand the dead time of long distance operation, accelerated speed of production, improved widely the output of turner, output can be increased to original 2-3 doubly, the lines of making are on the other hand more straight, attractive in appearance, meet brand business's requirement.Stretch cord can directly pull down operation while use, and length is free adjustment as required, and the used time is not lodged self restoring force of stretch cord, and annular compression ring is retracted in above head of sewing machine, does not affect the normal production operation of parking stall, very convenient, convenient.
Brief description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is the structural representation of special suture instrument;
Fig. 2 is that special suture instrument uses state diagram;
Fig. 3 is amalgamation parting position schematic diagram;
Fig. 4 is fur clothing cuff position schematic diagram.
Detailed description of the invention
The following description and drawings illustrate specific embodiment of the invention scheme fully, to enable those skilled in the art to put into practice them.The scope of embodiment of the present invention comprises the gamut of claims, and all obtainable equivalent of claims.In this article, these embodiments of the present invention can be represented with term " invention " individually or always, this is only used to conveniently, and if in fact disclose the invention that exceedes, is not that the scope that will automatically limit this application is any single invention or inventive concept.
Referring to Fig. 1, Fig. 2, the present invention relates to a kind of method of sewing and a kind of special suture instrument for this top grade fur clothing method of sewing of high-grade fur clothing.
The method of sewing of the high-grade fur clothing of the present invention mainly comprises two large steps: cutting and make step.
One, cutting step:
1) cut out skin: in order to meet the uniformity of fur clothing outward appearance, should note in use leather point towards epithelium tail down, vertical cutting, because the laterally vertical sense of whole clothes of cut-parts meeting impact.Anter, rear panel, sleeve and other positions of clothes can arrange cutting together, meanwhile, also to guarantee every garment piece not unfilled corner, do not have inferiorly, garment piece can not bounce back after having cut out.Because leather is flexible, skin graft is cut out after lower and will again be checked with model, looks at that whether size is consistent, and skin limit differs size with model limit can not exceed 0.3 centimetre, and the oxter pine skin length of use can not exceed 10 centimetres, widely can not exceed 3 centimetres.In the time of cutting, notice that each position of cutting apart will get position ready, before these bit representations in, rear in, the corresponding mark at side and each position, be also for convenient making below, make fur clothing symmetrical neat.Also will be just leading, the face such as positive waistband makes mark on preparing burden, in order to avoid positive and negative the mixing up of link below.Every garment piece is necessary
Corresponding site at every money garment piece is beaten clip.After garment piece cuts out, also to carry out self-inspection, look to be the few sheet of multi-disc.After self-inspection finishes, in order leather is stacked neatly, smooth being placed in basket, deliver to below test sheet link.
2) test sheet: test sheet person and take the skin graft cutting and test.Open garment piece, pave pendulum and test sheet to multiple sheet plate.First whether amalgamation anter, rear panel, sleeve sheet corresponding site surface texture, color, thickness degree be consistent, require garment piece and multiple sheet board size can not differ 0.3cm, unfilled corner can not exceed 0.2-0.3cm, oxter pine skin can not exceed that 3cm is wide, 10cm long, check on every garment piece, whether there is clip, and and model correspondence.When inspection, note whole clothes effect, it is consistent that the thickness degree of cladding is wanted, and cladding texture is fine and glossy, and no color differnece phenomenon affects must changing of clothes whole structure.Check
Just expect, as whether just lead, positive pkt. flap etc. makes corresponding mark.
3) press lining: press lining on garment piece, to press the thin lining of one deck exactly, and the lining cloth is here ready in advance.According to the demand of each style, scald corresponding lining cloth at different parts such as the anter of garment piece, rear panel, pocket, muffs, eckbands, open and press lining machine, according to the feature of different claddings, pressure lining machine temperature is transferred to 1 DEG C---between 110 DEG C, maximum temperature must not exceed 120 DEG C, and the general time is controlled at 7-10 second.Running speed is controlled between 4-5 shelves.Here can first test with leather point, then press lining.
4) do lining: lining has cut by model, directly make.On lining, can not reel off raw silk from cocoons, the phenomenon such as aberration, the seam position of the anter of lining, rear panel, sleeve is accurate, calm, straight, needle gage is wanted uniformity.While making, will aim at contraposition clip, levels can not be eaten lining phenomenon.
Two, make step:
1) piece 80# eedle, needle gage 10--11 pin/3cm, while pressing open-wire line, needle gage is wanted evenly, if any
Broken line, pin hole must heavily be come.
Auxiliary by a suture instrument while making, this suture instrument is provided with mounting bracket 1 and an annular compression ring 2 that energy rolls on fabric, mounting bracket 1 is positioned at the top of Sewing machines, mounting bracket 1 is provided with slide rail 3 and slide block 4, slide block 4 can slide along slide rail 3 front and back, and slide block 4 is provided with connector, and the stretch cord 6 that annular compression ring can be flexible by little suspension ring 5 and is connected, annular compression ring 2 is can flexible rotatings with little suspension ring 5 contact positions, and stretch cord 6 is connected with connector.Little suspension ring 5 have been provided with movable bayonet, in the time need to changing the annular compression ring of different-thickness or width, only need open movable bayonet, convenient and swift.When using, stretch cord 6 can directly pull down operation, length is free adjustment as required, the used time is not lodged self restoring force of stretch cord, annular compression ring is retracted in above head of sewing machine, the thickness D of annular compression ring can determine according to the thickness of cladding, the thickness D of annular compression ring is generally 0.1～0.15 ㎝, and the width L of annular compression ring is mainly that the diameter of annular compression ring is 25～35 ㎝ according to pressing when open-wire line the width at interval between suture to determine.Annular compression ring adopts the flexible material of toughness to make.Such as: toughness paper material etc.
While making, regulate the front and back position of annular compression ring 2 by slide block 4, the annular compression ring 2 of leaving behind, any place of annular compression ring 2 is pressed under sewing-machine foot, and make sewing machine needle 7 be close to the inside edge of annular compression ring, when sewing machine needle moves ahead along the inside edge of annular compression ring, sewing-machine foot forces annular compression ring to roll forward, thereby the edge that makes sewing machine needle can be close to annular compression ring moves ahead always, the outer ledge of meanwhile controlling annular compression ring aligns with a benchmark suture 7.Adopt the lines of making in this way more straight, attractive in appearance, meet brand business's requirement, improved widely the output of turner, output can be increased to original 2-3 doubly.
2), as shown in Fig. 3,0.15cm seam (not allowing disposable pressing) is pressed at amalgamation parting position, the amalgamation of first 1cm seam, then the split line that overlaps is rolled over a side seam pressure 0.15cm seam.
3) as shown in Figure 4, the cuff of fur clothing, the bottom be line ball (cutting apart many) not, cuts open margin to seam location, seam place.
The sleeve of fur clothing is one sleeve, and front and back sheet is placed in the middle without cuing open seam, and flanging cannot be located needs line ball.
When fur clothing is made, also should be noted that following some:
1. corium is flexible, non-stretchable when amalgamation, front little shoulder, left front, eckband, the positive palpus of muffs FUSIBLE INTERLINING bar, and what elasticity was larger can FUSIBLE INTERLINING bar location (or determining by concrete style).
2. surface has wiring position, can not weigh pin, and surface must not seen wiring phenomenon, and the end of a thread is brought reverse side knotting into, and mercerizing thread needs reverse side knotting after heat tangent line head, prevents the end of a thread landing.
3. after corium fabric sewing, avoid taking out stitches or surface fracture, avoid cut, must change sheet if any disability.
4. while pressing each position, flatiron needs shield vertical crease, can not draw flatiron, in order to avoid fabric is drawn to distortion or destroys glossiness.
5. fur clothing inseam does not bind off, the flatiron of cut-off rule position shield, and unavailable flatiron directly contacts cladding, reduces spray vapour or does not spray vapour flatiron (except special leather fabric).
6. flatiron amalgamation position, flatiron presses adjacent regions as far as possible less, except surface out-of-flatness.
7. the pin bottom that rises and falls during as stressed annexes such as style has sewing pkt. flap, pastes pocket corner, orders waist loop, bag lips must be joined fabric one side glue by pad, avoids washing brokenly or pulling open.
Above detailed description of the invention is only the better example of executing of this creation, not in order to limit this creation, any amendment of making, is equal to replacement, improvement etc., within all should being included in the protection domain of this creation within all spirit in this creation and principle.
Claims (6)
1. the method for sewing of a high-grade fur clothing, comprise cutting, make step, it is characterized in that: auxiliary by a suture instrument while making, suture instrument adopts an annular compression ring that energy rolls on fabric, any place of annular compression ring is pressed under sewing-machine foot, and make sewing machine needle be close to the inside edge of annular compression ring, when sewing machine needle moves ahead along the inside edge of annular compression ring, sewing-machine foot forces annular compression ring to roll forward, thereby the edge that makes sewing machine needle can always be close to annular compression ring moves ahead, the outer ledge of meanwhile controlling annular compression ring aligns with a benchmark suture.
2. the method for sewing of a kind of high-grade fur clothing as claimed in claim 1, is characterized in that: the thickness D of described annular compression ring is 0.1～0.15 ㎝, and the diameter of annular compression ring is 25～35 ㎝.
3. the method for sewing of a kind of high-grade fur clothing as claimed in claim 1, is characterized in that: described annular compression ring adopts the flexible material of toughness to make.
4. the method for sewing of a kind of high-grade fur clothing as claimed in claim 1, is characterized in that: when at amalgamation parting the position, and the amalgamation of first 1cm seam, then the split line that overlaps is rolled over a side seam pressure 0.15cm seam.
5. the special suture instrument for high-grade fur clothing method of sewing, its feature is in being: this suture instrument is provided with mounting bracket and an annular compression ring that energy rolls on fabric, mounting bracket is positioned at the top of Sewing machines, mounting bracket is provided with slide rail and slide block, slide block can slide before and after slide rail, slide block is provided with connector, annular compression ring can be connected by flexible stretch cord with one by little suspension ring, annular compression ring is can flexible rotating with little suspension ring contact position, and stretch cord is connected with connector.
6. a kind of special suture instrument for high-grade fur clothing method of sewing as claimed in claim 4, its feature is in being: the thickness D of described annular compression ring is 0.1～0.15 ㎝, and the diameter of annular compression ring is 25～35 ㎝.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201410370685.9A CN104195749B (en) | 2014-07-31 | 2014-07-31 | The method of sewing of high-grade fur clothing and special suture instrument thereof |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201410370685.9A CN104195749B (en) | 2014-07-31 | 2014-07-31 | The method of sewing of high-grade fur clothing and special suture instrument thereof |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN104195749A true CN104195749A (en) | 2014-12-10 |
| CN104195749B CN104195749B (en) | 2016-04-13 |
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| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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| CN201410370685.9A Active CN104195749B (en) | 2014-07-31 | 2014-07-31 | The method of sewing of high-grade fur clothing and special suture instrument thereof |
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Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US4719864A (en) * | 1987-05-11 | 1988-01-19 | The Charles Stark Draper Laboratory, Inc. | Limp material seam joining apparatus with rotatable limp material feed assembly |
| US6123039A (en) * | 1999-12-07 | 2000-09-26 | Yugen Kaisha Niiken Kogyosho | Endless-belt type walking presser foot |
| CN1397673A (en) * | 2001-06-30 | 2003-02-19 | 大和缝纫机制造株式会社 | Cloth pressuring device of sewing machine |
| CN201598406U (en) * | 2009-11-30 | 2010-10-06 | 天津市应氏服饰有限公司 | Presser foot with automatic pressing strip |
-
2014
- 2014-07-31 CN CN201410370685.9A patent/CN104195749B/en active Active
Patent Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US4719864A (en) * | 1987-05-11 | 1988-01-19 | The Charles Stark Draper Laboratory, Inc. | Limp material seam joining apparatus with rotatable limp material feed assembly |
| US6123039A (en) * | 1999-12-07 | 2000-09-26 | Yugen Kaisha Niiken Kogyosho | Endless-belt type walking presser foot |
| CN1397673A (en) * | 2001-06-30 | 2003-02-19 | 大和缝纫机制造株式会社 | Cloth pressuring device of sewing machine |
| CN201598406U (en) * | 2009-11-30 | 2010-10-06 | 天津市应氏服饰有限公司 | Presser foot with automatic pressing strip |
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| Publication number | Publication date |
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| CN104195749B (en) | 2016-04-13 |
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Address after: Lhorong road Haining city Jiaxing city Zhejiang province 314400 No. 623 Applicant after: ZHEJIANG NUOZHI CO., LTD. Address before: Lhorong road Haining city Jiaxing city Zhejiang province 314400 No. 623 Applicant before: ZHEJIANG NUOZHI FINERY CO., LTD. |
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Free format text: CORRECT: APPLICANT; FROM: ZHEJIANG NUOZHI FINERY CO., LTD. TO: ZHEJIANG NUOZHI CO., LTD. |
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