CN102858194B - Stretch woven fabric and elastic trousers - Google Patents

Stretch woven fabric and elastic trousers Download PDF

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Publication number
CN102858194B
CN102858194B CN201180020969.XA CN201180020969A CN102858194B CN 102858194 B CN102858194 B CN 102858194B CN 201180020969 A CN201180020969 A CN 201180020969A CN 102858194 B CN102858194 B CN 102858194B
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CN
China
Prior art keywords
mentioned
yarn
region
elongation resistance
weft
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Expired - Fee Related
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CN201180020969.XA
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Chinese (zh)
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CN102858194A (en
Inventor
秋山和雄
原嬉代子
石井慎二
安藤智子
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Toray Industries Inc
Onward Holdings Co Ltd
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Toray Industries Inc
Onward Holdings Co Ltd
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Publication of CN102858194A publication Critical patent/CN102858194A/en
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Publication of CN102858194B publication Critical patent/CN102858194B/en
Expired - Fee Related legal-status Critical Current
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00Garments
    • A41D1/06Trousers
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D2400/00Functions or special features of garments
    • A41D2400/38Shaping the contour of the body or adjusting the figure
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00Wearing apparel

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

Provided are trousers having an effect of firming up the hips without using a special pressing procedure or a special backing cloth in the course of manufacturing the trousers, and a stretch woven fabric suitable for manufacturing trousers. Elastic trousers, which have elasticity at least in the transverse direction of the trousers, using, as the outer fabric, a stretch woven fabric of the weft double cloth style comprising an area (A) having a strong elongation resistance in the weft direction and an area (B) having a weaker elongation resistance in the weft direction than the strong elongation resistance in the weft direction of the area (A), characterized in that the elongation resistance in the transverse direction of the outer fabric in the femoral part of the back area (3) is stronger than the elongation strength in the transverse direction of the outer fabric in the hem part.

Description

Stockinette and there are the trousers of retractility
Technical field
The present invention relates to the stockinette of the trousers (underpants, slacks) can found out and carry stern and the making being especially applicable to such trousers etc.
Background technology
In the trousers in the past employing common patterns for cutting-out (pattern), as shown in Fig. 1 (a) and (c), in predecessor's sheet side, the residue of cloth (relaxing) is had in the part of the root of leg, there is the residue of cloth (relaxing) in rear body sheet side at the inferior portion of buttocks, there is the tendency producing gauffer.If especially produce gauffer at the inferior portion of buttocks, then can find out that buttocks falls.
Before the application applicant in patent No. 3851632 publication (patent document 1), propose and use special patterns for cutting-out to cut out, operate by utilizing flatiron and make the stretching, extension of rear body sheet dress material avoid producing the such trousers of gauffer at the inferior portion of buttocks, these trousers, in market sale, win the favorable judgment.
In addition, in the past, the trousers of the stockinette (usually, comprise polyurethane as expression composition, it is 2 ~ 5% that label etc. is expressed as polyurethane) being called as unidirectional elastic force or bidirectional elastic are employed in market sale.Although these trousers bodies are thin, because dress material stretches, so, even if it is also comfortable to stand or sit down.But, although these trousers are close to equably with health, because there is no bodily form calibration result, so the bodily form is shown in appearance by former state.Especially the shape of buttocks can be seen, if buttocks is sagging, then can go out from the appearance.
Therefore, when for women, mostly under the state of wearing girdle, wear such trousers.But, although the strong girdle hip-lifting effect of power of tying tight is large, narrow.On the other hand, be commonly referred to as in the girdle of plastotype girdle, although due to the power of tying tight weak, wearing feeling is good, hip-lifting effect is few.Further, also someone feels to wear girdle trouble every day.
Consider this point, propose and use elastic fabric etc. to make it to have the technology of girdle function at the lining cloth of trousers.Such as, open by patent No. 3509309 publication (patent document 2), patent No. 3605808 publication (patent document 3), patent No. 4356643 publication (patent document 4) etc.
Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication 11-189906 publication (patent document 5) proposes the technology of the clothes obtaining telescopicing performance excellence in sports, agricultural operation etc.According to this patent document 6, disclosing by making the transverse direction of dress material wide is the size larger than the height of trousers, makes parts different for the telescopic level of longitudinal direction arrange at transverse direction, cuts out at transverse direction, the telescopic level made near buttocks is large, the trousers that the telescopic level around trouser legs is little.
At first technical literature
Patent document
Patent document 1: patent No. 3851632 publication
Patent document 2: patent No. 3509309 publication
Patent document 3: patent No. 3605808 publication
Patent document 4: patent No. 4356643 publication
Patent document 5: Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication 11-189906 publication
In technology disclosed in patent document 1, in the making of trousers, be necessary the flatiron operation that the privileged site carrying out making rear body sheet dress material stretches.
In trousers such disclosed in patent document 2 ~ 4, be necessary to use the special lining cloth be combined with by elastic fabric etc., the making cost labour of trousers.
Trousers disclosed in patent document 5 do not use special patterns for cutting-out, special lining cloth.But trousers are extremely difficult to actual manufacture disclosed in patent document 5.Namely, when the dress material used is for fabric, part A ~ E that the telescopic level of longitudinal direction (warp thread direction) is different arranges at transverse direction (weft direction), but, because when manufacturing such fabric, tension force is applied to warp thread, so, even if telescopic level is different, also likely can weave.But in the state from grey cloth (fabric of former state of casting off) during the operations such as concise operation, dyeing process, fabric becomes crooked, sinuate state.This be due to, because substantially do not apply tension force to warp thread at concise operation, dyeing process etc., therefore, correspondingly produce at warp thread direction with the telescopic level of warp thread and shrink, left and right is not had to shrink equably (the part A ~ D of the left side of Fig. 1 of patent document 5 shrinks large, and the part E of right-hand part shrinks little) at the width of fabric, so, fabric does not have smooth, becomes bending state.
The present invention, to provide a kind of in the making of trousers, does not use and presses operation, special lining cloth especially, can find out carry stern trousers for the purpose of.
In addition, the present invention to provide a kind of stockinette being applicable to the making of such trousers etc., for the purpose of the stockinette that namely there is not the problem that fabric is such disclosed in patent document 5.
Summary of the invention
The present invention is by being that the weft backed cloth in region weak for the elongation resistance in the above-mentioned strong region of elongation resistance ratios of region strong for the elongation resistance comprising weft direction and weft direction is used for fabric, at least have retractility at the transverse direction of trousers trousers, it is characterized in that, the elongation resistance of the transverse direction at the position near the trouser legs of the above-mentioned fabric of elongation resistance ratios of the transverse direction at the position of the huckle in the rear body sheet of above-mentioned fabric has by force the trousers of retractility like this, reaches above-mentioned purpose.
In trousers of the present invention, preferably same with the position of the huckle in rear body sheet, the elongation resistance of the transverse direction at the position near the above-mentioned trouser legs of elongation resistance ratios of the position of huckle in predecessor's sheet of above-mentioned fabric or the transverse direction at the position of belly is strong.
Have again, the position that the elongation resistance of the transverse direction in preferred existence and rear body sheet or predecessor's sheet is strong is adjacent, the above-mentioned strong position of elongation resistance ratios with transverse direction is weak, and the position of the elongation resistance of the centre stronger than the elongation resistance of the transverse direction at the position near above-mentioned trouser legs.
In trousers of the present invention, the upper end at the position that the elongation resistance of the transverse direction preferably in body sheet is strong or there is middle elongation resistance the upper-end part of driving at position in the little crotch cross point of trousers or vertical crotch.
The preferably trousers with retractility of the present invention, in the front of the fabric for weft backed cloth, even the position that the elongation resistance of the transverse direction in trousers is different, also identical fabric yarn is adopted to design, at the back side of above-mentioned fabric, the position that the elongation resistance of the transverse direction in trousers is different, adopts different fabric yarns to design, the elastomeric yarn in weft yarn or to comprise the composite yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate different at the position that the elongation resistance of transverse direction is different with the ratio of other yarn.
In addition, the present invention is by is characterized in that, be weft yarn by elastomeric yarn or comprise the stockinette at least at weft direction with retractility that the composite yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate and other yarn form, this stockinette is weft backed cloth, and such stockinette that the weak region of the elongation resistance in the above-mentioned strong region of elongation resistance ratios of the region that the elongation resistance of weft direction is strong and weft direction is repeated at warp thread direction realizes above-mentioned purpose.
Stockinette of the present invention also can be in above-mentioned stockinette, and the elongation resistance arranging weft direction between the region that the elongation resistance in the above-mentioned strong region of elongation resistance ratios of the strong region of the elongation resistance of weft direction and weft direction is weak is the stockinette of the zone line of intensity between the elongation resistance in above-mentioned strong region and the elongation resistance in above-mentioned weak region.
Preferably in stockinette of the present invention, be circularly set mark by each decorative pattern of warp thread direction.In a decorative pattern circulation between this mark and mark, comprise an above-mentioned strong region and be configured in the weak region of two of its both sides, or also between two regions, comprise above-mentioned zone line.
Preferred above-mentioned mark is by changing any one mark in fabric tissue, the color of yarn and the fabric tissue of cloth edge.
Preferably in stockinette of the present invention, the fabric yarn design of the weft yarn in the front of weft backed cloth is all identical in above-mentioned each region, the fabric yarn design of the weft yarn at the back side is different because of above-mentioned each region, change elastomeric yarn or comprise the composite yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate and the ratio of other yarn, make the elongation resistance in above-mentioned each region different.
Invention effect
Because trousers of the present invention are the trousers at the transverse direction of trousers with retractility, so, even if wear the trousers of the size be close to health, also narrow sense can not be produced.And, if the trousers of the size that dress and health are close to, the elongation resistance (namely, relative to the resistance extended) of the transverse direction at the position of the huckle then in body sheet is strong compared with the elongation resistance of the transverse direction at the position near trouser legs, therefore, when for weak power, be difficult to extend, there is the effect of being tied tight by the rear side of the huckle of the people wearing trousers.And, same with when wearing girdle, if making upwards to lift compared with the buttocks position strong with the elongation resistance of the transverse direction of trousers wears trousers, then become the state carrying stern.In addition, in trousers of the present invention, because substantially do not produce gauffer at the inferior portion of buttocks, so, can not find out that buttocks is sagging.
Like this, according to the present invention, when the making of trousers, can not use and press operation especially, special lining cloth obtains finding out the trousers carrying stern.
If the elongation resistance of the transverse direction at the position of the huckle in predecessor's sheet of trousers is same with the position of the huckle in rear body sheet is strong elongation resistance, then the all-round of huckle can be tied tight, especially there is the lax such effect not going out interior leg from the appearance.
If the elongation resistance of the transverse direction at the position of the belly in predecessor's sheet of trousers is same with the position of the huckle in rear body sheet is strong elongation resistance, then belly can be tied tight.
In addition, when the difference of elongation resistance on strong position and weak position of transverse direction is large, if make two position direct neighbors, then exist to produce in adjacent regions bloat, the situation of gauffer, therefore, under these circumstances, by making to there is the position with middle elongation resistance between two positions, can eliminate bloat, gauffer.When difference is little, the position with middle elongation resistance also can not exist.
In trousers of the present invention, if the upper end at the strong position of the elongation resistance of the transverse direction in rear body sheet or there is middle elongation resistance the upper-end part of driving at position in the little crotch cross point of trousers or vertical crotch, then more there is hip-lifting effect.
According to the trousers with retractility of the present invention, in the front of the fabric as weft backed cloth, even if the position that the elongation resistance of the transverse direction in trousers is different, also identical fabric yarn is adopted to design, at the back side of above-mentioned fabric, the position that the elongation resistance of the transverse direction in trousers is different adopts different fabric yarns to design, the elastomeric yarn in weft yarn or containing the composite yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate and the ratio of other yarn in the different position difference of the elongation resistance of transverse direction.
Like this, according to the present invention, correspondingly change elastomeric yarn with elongation resistance or comprise the composite yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate and the ratio of other yarn.Because in elastomeric yarn or the composite yarn comprising polytrimethylene terephthalate and other yarn, dyeability is different, so, if use the yarn that these dyeabilities are different in weft yarn, then there is the situation becoming horizontal stripe to manifest because of color, extend the different position of resistance and become different tones, there is the situation becoming clearly decorative pattern because of color and manifest.But, in the present invention, because the dress material of use is made weft backed cloth, the respective fabric yarn changing the weft yarn at the weft yarn forming front and the formation back side individually designs, so, if will integrally not adopt the table side of face as trousers of the weft backed cloth of identical fabric yarn design by the impact of extending resistance, using from extend the dorsal part of the resistance face that correspondingly adopts different fabric yarns to design as trousers, then the outside of trousers is not by the impact of extending resistance, integrally become identical tone, its outward appearance can be made identical with common trousers.
Stockinette of the present invention is weft yarn by elastomeric yarn or comprises the stockinette at least at weft direction with retractility that the composite yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate and other yarn form, this stockinette is weft backed cloth, it is characterized in that, the stockinette that the weak region of the elongation resistance in the above-mentioned strong region of elongation resistance ratios of the region that the elongation resistance of weft direction is strong and weft direction is repeated at warp thread direction, can make the trousers with retractility of the present invention by this stockinette.
In stockinette of the present invention, when the elongation resistance being provided with weft direction between the region that the elongation resistance in the above-mentioned strong region of elongation resistance ratios of the strong region of the elongation resistance at weft direction and weft direction is weak is the zone line of intensity between the elongation resistance in above-mentioned strong region and the elongation resistance in the region also more weak than above-mentioned weak region, with regard to the elongation resistance of transverse direction, the difference of the elongation resistance in strong region and weak region can be increased.
Preferably in stockinette of the present invention, being circularly set mark by each decorative pattern of warp thread direction, by arranging mark on fabric, the setting-out of each parts of trousers can being carried out rightly.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 (a) is the front view of the state of the trousers worn in the past, Fig. 1 (b) is the front view of the state of having worn trousers of the present invention, Fig. 1 (c) is the side view of the state of the trousers worn in the past, and Fig. 1 (d) is the side view of the state of having worn trousers of the present invention.
Fig. 2 (a) is the top view in the front represented in an embodiment of stockinette of the present invention, and Fig. 2 (b) is the top view representing its back side.
Fig. 3 is the curve map of the elongation resistance of the weft direction represented in an embodiment of stockinette of the present invention.
Fig. 4 represents the top view of the parts setting-out of women's drawers of the embodiment as trousers of the present invention in the state of stockinette of the present invention.
The front view of the trousers of the present invention that Fig. 5 (a) is the parts shown in cutting Fig. 4 and is sewn into, Fig. 5 (b) is its rearview.In addition, in order to illustrate, the position strong to the elongation resistance of transverse direction and the position with middle elongation resistance are implemented oblique line and are represented, but do not occur being applied with the such decorative pattern of oblique line in table side.
Fig. 6 represents the top view using the state of the parts setting-out of the seven-tenths trousers of other embodiment as trousers of the present invention.
Fig. 7 represents the top view by the state of the parts setting-out of the seven-tenths trousers of the another embodiment of trousers of the present invention.
The front view of the trousers of the present invention that Fig. 8 (a) is the parts shown in cutting Fig. 7 and is sewn into, Fig. 8 (b) is its rearview.In addition, in order to illustrate, the position strong to the elongation resistance of transverse direction and the position with middle elongation resistance apply oblique line and represent, but table side does not occur being applied with the such decorative pattern of oblique line.
Detailed description of the invention
Below, in accordance with the embodiments illustrated, the present invention is explained.
Trousers of the present invention are the trousers at least at the transverse direction of trousers with retractility, and the weft backed cloth 1 of region B weak for the elongation resistance of region A strong for the elongation resistance ratios of region A strong for the elongation resistance comprising weft direction as shown in Figure 2 and weft direction is used for fabric and makes.
Trousers of the present invention are by making the rear body sheet 3(of fabric see Fig. 5) in huckle position transverse direction elongation resistance ratios trouser legs near the elongation resistance of transverse direction at position strong, and the trousers carrying stern can be found out.
Being weft backed cloths for making the stockinette 1 of trousers of the present invention, being weft yarn by elastomeric yarn or comprising the stockinette at least at weft direction with retractility that the composite yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate and other yarn form.
In Fig. 2, if stockinette of the present invention 1 is weft backed cloth, then the fabric tissue at front and the back side is not specially limited, and can be three foundation weave, its alternative constructions such as plain weave, satin weave, twill-weave (twills, twill).
In addition, stockinette 1 of the present invention can be the unidirectional stockinette only at weft direction with retractility, also can be the bi-directional stretch fabrics at warp thread direction and this two direction of weft direction with retractility.
Although the elastomeric yarn used in the present invention also can be naked yarn elastomer former state being done resultant yarn, the wrap yarn of the elastomer preferably extended by other fibre-coated (covering yarn, embedding heart yarn twist yarn, composit false twisting yarn etc.).As elastomer, the spandex yarns such as optimization polyurethane class elastomer, polyesters elastomer.Also the IR fiber such as natural rubber, synthetic rubber yarn can be used.Other fiber of coated elastomer can be natural fiber, can be also synthetic fibers, and the covered fiber in covering yarn can be processing yarn of crispaturaing, and also can be not carry out the straight yarn processed of crispaturaing.
The composite yarn comprising polytrimethylene terephthalate used in the present invention be by the polymer be made up of polytrimethylene terephthalate is formed with by poly terephthalic acid polymer-bonded become the yarn that forms of the composite fibre of juxtaposition type or eccentric core-sheath-type.This yarn has potential manifesting property of crispaturaing, and is to have to be crispaturaed by heat treatment phenomenon, or from before heat treatment, manifest the yarn of the trickle ability of crispaturaing, and is yarn distinguishing with common false twist processing yarn.The composite yarn comprising polytrimethylene terephthalate has excellent elastic (extensibility) and elastic force restoration (extending restorative), is the yarn that especially elastic force restoration is large compared with common false twist processing yarn.
Preferably as elastomeric yarn, comprise polytrimethylene terephthalate composite yarn beyond other the yarn for weft yarn be the processing yarns of crispaturaing such as false twist processing yarn.
In the present invention, warp thread is not particularly limited raw material, and when making unidirectional stockinette, can be the yarn be made up of natural fibers such as cotton, hair, fiber crops, also can be processing yarn of crispaturaing.When for bi-directional stretch fabrics, as long as warp thread uses elastomeric yarn or comprises the composite yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate.
In an embodiment of the stockinette of the present invention 1 shown in Fig. 2, as shown in Fig. 2 (b), the region B having the elongation resistance of the strong region A of the elongation resistance ratios of the strong region A of the elongation resistance of weft direction, weft direction weak, the elongation resistance of weft direction are the zone line C of the intensity between the elongation resistance of strong region A and the elongation resistance of weak region B, at the both sides of strong region A configuration zone line C, these regions A, B, C repeat at warp thread direction.
Each decorative pattern repeated by these regions A, B, C is circularly set mark 2.Mark 2 is the parts for easily carrying out the setting-out of each parts of trousers rightly, can change the fabric tissue of fabric tissue, the color of yarn or cloth edge to make mark.
In addition, in the embodiment shown in Figure 2, there are three kinds of regions A, B, C, but as other embodiment, the elongation resistance of weft direction, when strong region and weak-strong test are not poor too much, also can not configure zone line.Otherwise, when weft direction elongation resistance strong region and weak-strong test difference large, also can configure multiple zone line C, C that the elongation resistance of weft direction is different ', C " (not shown).
As shown in Figure 2 (a) shows, in the face side of weft backed cloth 1 of the present invention, the design of the fabric yarn of weft yarn is all identical at each region A, B, C.On the other hand, in the rear side of weft backed cloth, the design of the fabric yarn of weft yarn is different because of each region A, B, C, makes the elongation resistance difference of the weft direction in each region A, B, C.
For making the elongation resistance of the weft direction in each region A, B, C different, there is following method.
When the yarn used by the weft yarn of the rear side as the double stockinette of latitude 1 comprises yarn raw material and rugosity makes two kinds, (a kind of is elastomeric yarn or the composite yarn comprising polytrimethylene terephthalate, in addition be other yarn), weft yarn in each region A, B, C, change elastomeric yarn or comprise the ratio of the composite yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate and other yarn, make the elongation resistance of the weft direction in each region A, B, C different.
The raw material and the rugosity that the yarn that the weft yarn of the rear side as the double stockinette 1 of latitude uses are comprised yarn make more than three kinds.Such as, extending resistance strong region A and weak region C, the elastomeric yarn that the rugosity (fiber number) of heart yarn is different is used.The elastomeric yarn that fiber number is large is large relative to the resistance extended.Also the ratio with other yarn can be changed in the lump.
The elongation resistance of the weft direction in each region A, B, C can with JIS L 1096(1999) 8.14 the assay method of percentage elongation of flexible fabric be benchmark investigation.Common percentage elongation based on JIS is applied with 14.7N(1.5Kg) load time percentage elongation, be with when this load, how much extend is the percentage elongation of problem.But, in the present invention, be the percentage elongation that is problem with the resistance (, extend difficulty) relative to elongation when having worn trousers.Around waist, (namely, waistline, buttocks) is the girth on the thickest position of the waist of human body, although the difference around waist under standing state and seated position is different because of the bodily form, and, at most namely 3 ~ 10cm.Namely, when having worn the trousers be close to health, the length that the dress material of trousers stretches at transverse direction mostly has been 3 ~ 10cm most in the position of buttocks line.
Therefore, for investigating the elongation resistance of weft direction of the present invention, respectively from each region A, B, C prepare the size of the long regulation of weft direction test film (such as, length 30cm, width 3cm), the constant speed of the self-tape deck of band is used to extend shape cupping machine etc., with the grasping interval specified (such as, 20cm), with constant speed tension test sheet, the length that mensuration is extended is the power (load) in certain position between 20mm ~ 50mm.Accordingly, known such as will with grasp interval 20cm make test film extend 40mm need how much power, namely, relative to extend resistance be how many.Like this, if the measured value of the test film of more each region A, B, C, then the known order becoming A> region, region C> region B.
Fig. 3 represents each region A, B, C preparation test film (length 30cm, width 3cm) from an embodiment of stockinette of the present invention, grasping is made to be spaced apart 20cm, with the speed tensile test film of 30 ± 2cm/min, determine the figure of the curve map of the elongation resistance of weft direction.Longitudinal axis newton (N) represents tensile force (representing as test force in Fig. 3), and transverse axis mm represents the length (in Fig. 3, representing as stroke) of elongation.
In the stockinette of this embodiment, carry out following such fabric yarn and design.Warp thread is the covering yarn of polyester false twist processing yarn of 167dtex of having reeled at the heart yarn of the polyurethane of 44dtex.Namely, same with warp thread the weft yarn of the table side of backed cloth is all identical at region A, B, C, is the covering yarn of polyester false twist processing yarn of 167dtex of having reeled at the heart yarn of the polyurethane of 44dtex.The weft yarn of the dorsal part of backed cloth uses and comprises the composite yarn of the polytrimethylene terephthalate of 167dtex and the polyester false twist processing yarn these two kinds as the 84dtex of other yarn.Fitty(Off イ Star テ イ in each region A, B, C) and the ratio of false twist processing yarn be 20:1 at the region A that the elongation resistance of weft direction is strong, being 1:20 at the region B that the elongation resistance of weft direction is weak, is 5:5 at zone line C.
In Fig. 3, the line that symbol a represents represents the extended length of region A that elongation resistance is strong and the relation of tensile force, the line that symbol b represents represents and extends the weak extended length of region B of resistance and the relation of tensile force, and the line that symbol c represents represents and extends the resistance extended length of zone line C between and the relation of tensile force.Such as, at the position that extended length (stroke) is 42mm, in strong region A and weak region B, in the case of the embodiment, there is the difference of the elongation resistance of about 3N.
Fig. 4 has represented in stockinette setting-out of the present invention the top view as the state of the parts of women's drawers of an embodiment of trousers of the present invention.
The width of the stockinette of this embodiment is 118cm, the length (length of warp thread direction) of one decorative pattern circulation is 121cm, in a decorative pattern circulation, there is the weak region B of zone line C and 23cm of strong region A, 4cm of zone line C, 23cm of weak-strong test B, 4cm of 67cm, it is repeated.In addition, in the present invention, the width of stockinette, the length of these each regions A, B, C are not limited to situation about illustrating in this embodiment.
In the diagram, in order to represent the position of each region A, B, C, same with Fig. 2 (b) oblique line being applied to region A and C, representing the state of setting-out, but, when actual setting-out, in any one of the front of fabric or the back side.
In the fig. 4 embodiment, represent the state of the parts of the trousers of the in-leg 88cm of setting-out two people amount in three decorative patterns circulations, body sheet 3 and left and right Liang Zu predecessor's sheet 4 behind two groups, configuration left and right, in the gap of rear body sheet 3 and predecessor's sheet 4, the configuration of blank position pocket, waistband etc.In this embodiment, as shown in Figure 4, extending the strong region A of resistance at rear body sheet 3 and predecessor's sheet 4 is the position being positioned at huckle by setting-out.The upper-end part of driving of the strong region A of rear body sheet 3 is in little crotch cross point (namely, the seat suture 31 of rear body sheet 3 and femoribus internus line 32, the front crotch suture 41 of predecessor's sheet 4 and femoribus internus line 42 point of reporting to the leadship after accomplishing a task, seam is at the position of reporting to the leadship after accomplishing a task, crotch crosswise ground of trousers).In addition, also can stagger from little crotch cross point to vertical crotch side or crotch side in the upper end of strong region A.When strong region A staggers to crotch side, the upper-end part of driving of preferred zone line C is in little crotch cross point or vertical crotch.
In patterns for cutting-out shown in Fig. 4, the height direction (length direction) of trousers is warp thread directions of fabric 1, and the transverse direction of trousers is weft directions of fabric 1.The trousers made by the patterns for cutting-out shown in Fig. 4 represent at Fig. 5, have worn its state representation at Fig. 1 (b) and (d).In Figure 5, in order to illustrate, the position A that the elongation resistance of transverse direction the is strong and position C with middle elongation resistance applies oblique line and represents, but table side is not applied with the such decorative pattern of oblique line.Because as shown in Fig. 5 (a) and Fig. 5 (b), the position A that the elongation resistance of transverse direction is strong is configured in the position of huckle in predecessor's sheet 4 and rear body sheet 3 of trousers, so, as shown in Fig. 1 (b) and (d), the effect that these trousers play hip-lifting effect and tied tight by femoribus internus.
Fig. 6 represents the stockinette that use is identical with aforesaid stockinette, the state of the parts of the seven-tenths trousers (referring to that trouser legs are cut off the trousers of such shape on the way) of the in-leg 56cm of setting-out three people amount in four decorative patterns circulations.Body sheet 3 and three groups, left and right predecessor's sheet 4 behind three groups, configuration left and right, in the gap of rear body sheet 3 and predecessor's sheet 4, the configuration of blank position pocket, waistband etc.The seven-tenths trousers of this embodiment are same with the embodiment shown in Fig. 4, and extending the strong region A of resistance at rear body sheet 3 and predecessor's sheet 4 is the position being positioned at huckle by setting-out.
Fig. 7 is same with Fig. 6, use the stockinette identical with aforesaid stockinette, other embodiment of the state of the parts of the seven-tenths trousers of the in-leg 56cm of setting-out three people amount in four decorative patterns circulations, body sheet 3 and three groups, left and right predecessor's sheet 4 behind three groups, configuration left and right, in the gap of rear body sheet 3 and predecessor's sheet 4, the configuration of blank position pocket, waistband.In this embodiment, extending the strong region A of resistance at rear body sheet 3 is the position being positioned at huckle by setting-out, is the position being positioned at belly at predecessor's sheet 4 by setting-out.
The seven-tenths trousers made by patterns for cutting-out shown in Fig. 7 are represented at Fig. 8 (in addition, same with Fig. 5, in order to illustrate, the position A that the elongation resistance of transverse direction is strong and the position C applying oblique line with middle elongation resistance represent).As shown in Figure 8, in the trousers of this embodiment, not only there is hip-lifting effect, because there is the strong position A of the elongation resistance of transverse direction at belly, so, also have by wearing trousers, the effect that belly is tied tight.
In trousers of the present invention, the position A that the elongation resistance of the transverse direction in rear body sheet 3 and predecessor's sheet 4 is strong is not limited to illustrated embodiment.Such as, in rear body sheet 3, the position A that the elongation resistance of transverse direction is strong also can be configured in the top from the huckle of the below slightly of little crotch cross point to vertical crotch, in addition, in predecessor's sheet 4, the position A that the elongation resistance of transverse direction is strong also can be configured in the position of knee.When strong position A is configured in the position of knee, even if repeat the bending stretching, extension of knee under the state of wearing trousers, the state that the position being also difficult to the knee becoming trousers bloats, the state that so-called knee shows.
In addition, in the present invention, the length of the length of the width of stockinette, a decorative pattern circulation and each region A, B, C is not limited to for the embodiment illustrated by Fig. 4, if change the length etc. of the width of stockinette, a decorative pattern circulation, or the length of trousers made by changing, then change the state of setting-out thereupon.
Symbol description
1: stockinette; 2: mark; 3: rear body sheet; 4: predecessor's sheet; A: the region that the elongation resistance of weft direction is strong; B: the region that the elongation resistance of weft direction is weak; C: the elongation resistance of weft direction is middle region; A: represent the line extending the strong extended length of region A of resistance and the relation of tensile force; B: represent the line extending the weak extended length of region B of resistance and the relation of tensile force: c: represent and extend the line that resistance is the extended length of zone line C between the two and the relation of tensile force.

Claims (10)

1. one kind has the trousers of retractility, it is the trousers fabric weft backed cloth in region weak for the elongation resistance in the above-mentioned strong region of elongation resistance ratios of region strong for the elongation resistance comprising weft direction and weft direction for the transverse direction at least at trousers with retractility, it is characterized in that, the elongation resistance of the transverse direction at the position near the trouser legs of the above-mentioned fabric of elongation resistance ratios of the transverse direction at the position of the huckle in the rear body sheet of above-mentioned fabric is strong, in the front of the fabric as above-mentioned weft backed cloth, even the position that the elongation resistance of the transverse direction in trousers is different, also identical fabric yarn is adopted to design, at the back side of above-mentioned fabric, the position that the elongation resistance of the transverse direction in trousers is different, different fabric yarns is adopted to design, elastomeric yarn in weft yarn or to comprise the composite yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate and the ratio of other yarn different at the position that the elongation resistance of transverse direction is different.
2. there are the trousers of retractility as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that, same with the position of the huckle in above-mentioned rear body sheet, the elongation resistance of the transverse direction at the position near the above-mentioned trouser legs of elongation resistance ratios of the transverse direction at the position of the huckle in predecessor's sheet of above-mentioned fabric is strong.
3. there are the trousers of retractility as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that, same with the position of the huckle in above-mentioned rear body sheet, the elongation resistance of the transverse direction at the position near the above-mentioned trouser legs of elongation resistance ratios of the transverse direction at the position of the belly in predecessor's sheet of above-mentioned fabric is strong.
4. the trousers with retractility as described in any one in claims 1 to 3, it is characterized in that, there is the position strong with the elongation resistance of the transverse direction in above-mentioned rear body sheet or predecessor's sheet adjacent, the above-mentioned strong position of elongation resistance ratios with transverse direction is weak, and the position of the elongation resistance of the centre stronger than the elongation resistance of the transverse direction at the position near above-mentioned trouser legs.
5. the trousers with retractility as described in any one in claims 1 to 3, it is characterized in that, the upper end at the position that the elongation resistance of the transverse direction in above-mentioned rear body sheet is strong or there is middle elongation resistance the upper-end part of driving at position in the little crotch cross point of trousers or vertical crotch.
6. a stockinette, it is characterized in that, be weft yarn by elastomeric yarn or comprise the stockinette at least at weft direction with retractility that the composite yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate and other yarn form, this stockinette is weft backed cloth, the region that the elongation resistance in the above-mentioned strong region of elongation resistance ratios of the region that the elongation resistance of weft direction is strong and weft direction is weak is repeated at warp thread direction, in above-mentioned weft backed cloth, the fabric yarn design of the weft yarn in front is all identical in above-mentioned each region, the above-mentioned each region of fabric yarn design consideration of the weft yarn at the back side and different, change elastomeric yarn or comprise the composite yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate and the ratio of other yarn, make the elongation resistance in above-mentioned each region different.
7. a stockinette, it is characterized in that, be weft yarn by elastomeric yarn or comprise the stockinette at least at weft direction with retractility that the composite yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate and other yarn form, this stockinette is weft backed cloth, the region strong by the elongation resistance of weft direction, the region that the elongation resistance in the above-mentioned strong region of elongation resistance ratios of weft direction is weak, the elongation resistance of weft direction is the intensity between the elongation resistance in above-mentioned strong region and the elongation resistance in above-mentioned weak region, and the zone line between above-mentioned strong region and above-mentioned weak region is formed, above-mentioned strong region, above-mentioned zone line and above-mentioned weak region are repeated at warp thread direction, in above-mentioned weft backed cloth, the fabric yarn design of the weft yarn in front is all identical in above-mentioned each region, the above-mentioned each region of fabric yarn design consideration of the weft yarn at the back side and different, change elastomeric yarn or comprise the composite yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate and the ratio of other yarn, make the elongation resistance in above-mentioned each region different.
8. stockinette as claimed in claim 6, is characterized in that, be circularly set mark by each decorative pattern of warp thread direction, in the decorative pattern circulation between this mark and mark, there is an above-mentioned strong region and the above-mentioned weak region being configured in its both sides.
9. stockinette as claimed in claim 7, it is characterized in that, mark is circularly set by each decorative pattern of warp thread direction, in a decorative pattern circulation between this mark and mark, the zone line that there is an above-mentioned strong region, be configured in the above-mentioned weak region of its both sides and be configured between above-mentioned strong region and above-mentioned weak region.
10. stockinette as claimed in claim 8 or 9, is characterized in that, above-mentioned mark is formed by any one the mark changed in fabric tissue, the color of yarn and the fabric tissue of cloth edge.
CN201180020969.XA 2010-04-26 2011-04-18 Stretch woven fabric and elastic trousers Expired - Fee Related CN102858194B (en)

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