CN102858194A - Stretch woven fabric and elastic trousers - Google Patents

Stretch woven fabric and elastic trousers Download PDF

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Publication number
CN102858194A
CN102858194A CN201180020969XA CN201180020969A CN102858194A CN 102858194 A CN102858194 A CN 102858194A CN 201180020969X A CN201180020969X A CN 201180020969XA CN 201180020969 A CN201180020969 A CN 201180020969A CN 102858194 A CN102858194 A CN 102858194A
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CN
China
Prior art keywords
mentioned
elongation resistance
yarn
zone
trousers
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CN201180020969XA
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CN102858194B (en
Inventor
秋山和雄
原嬉代子
石井慎二
安藤智子
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Toray Industries Inc
Onward Holdings Co Ltd
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Toray Industries Inc
Onward Holdings Co Ltd
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Publication of CN102858194A publication Critical patent/CN102858194A/en
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Publication of CN102858194B publication Critical patent/CN102858194B/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00Garments
    • A41D1/06Trousers
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D2400/00Functions or special features of garments
    • A41D2400/38Shaping the contour of the body or adjusting the figure
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00Wearing apparel

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

Provided are trousers having an effect of firming up the hips without using a special pressing procedure or a special backing cloth in the course of manufacturing the trousers, and a stretch woven fabric suitable for manufacturing trousers. Elastic trousers, which have elasticity at least in the transverse direction of the trousers, using, as the outer fabric, a stretch woven fabric of the weft double cloth style comprising an area (A) having a strong elongation resistance in the weft direction and an area (B) having a weaker elongation resistance in the weft direction than the strong elongation resistance in the weft direction of the area (A), characterized in that the elongation resistance in the transverse direction of the outer fabric in the femoral part of the back area (3) is stronger than the elongation strength in the transverse direction of the outer fabric in the hem part.

Description

Stockinette and the trousers with retractility
Technical field
The stockinette that the present invention relates to find out the trousers (underpants, slacks) of carrying stern and especially be fit to the making of such trousers etc.
Background technology
In the trousers in the past that used common patterns for cutting-out (pattern), such as Fig. 1 (a) and (c), in predecessor's sheet side, the residue (relaxing) that cloth is arranged in the part of the root of leg, the residue (relaxing) of cloth is arranged in rear body sheet side part below buttocks, have the tendency that produces gauffer.If especially part produces gauffer below buttocks, can find out that then buttocks falls.
The application applicant is in the past in No. 3851632 communique of patent (patent documentation 1), proposed to use special patterns for cutting-out to cut out, by utilizing the flatiron operation to make rear body sheet dress material stretch to avoid below buttocks, partly to produce the such trousers of gauffer, these trousers win the favorable judgment in market sale.
In addition, in the past, used the trousers of the stockinette that is called as unidirectional elastic force or bidirectional elastic (usually, form as expression and to comprise polyurethane, being expressed as polyurethane at label etc. is 2~5%) in market sale.Although these trousers bodies are thin, because dress material is flexible, so, even it is also comfortable to stand or sit down.But, although these trousers be close to equably with health,, because there is not bodily form calibration result, so the bodily form is shown in appearance by former state.Especially the shape of buttocks can be seen, if buttocks is sagging, then can go out from the appearance.
Therefore, in the situation that be the women, mostly under the state of having worn girdle, wear such trousers.But, although the strong girdle hip-lifting effect of the power of tying tight is large,, narrow.On the other hand, be commonly referred to as in the girdle of plastotype girdle, although because a little less than the power of tying tight, wearing feeling is good,, hip-lifting effect is few.Have, also someone feels to wear the girdle trouble every day again.
Consider this point, proposed to use elastic fabric etc. to make it to have the technology of girdle function at the lining cloth of trousers.For example, open by No. 3509309 communique of patent (patent documentation 2), No. 3605808 communique of patent (patent documentation 3), No. 4356643 communique of patent (patent documentation 4) etc.
Japanese kokai publication hei 11-189906 communique (patent documentation 5) has proposed to obtain the technology of the clothes of telescopicing performance excellence in sports, farming industry etc.According to this patent documentation 6, disclosing by making the horizontal wide of dress material is the size larger than the height of trousers, and the part that the telescopic level of longitudinal direction is different is arranged at transverse direction, cuts out at transverse direction, make near the telescopic level of buttocks large, the little trousers of telescopic level around the trouser legs.
Technical literature formerly
Patent documentation
Patent documentation 1: No. 3851632 communique of patent
Patent documentation 2: No. 3509309 communique of patent
Patent documentation 3: No. 3605808 communique of patent
Patent documentation 4: No. 4356643 communique of patent
Patent documentation 5: Japanese kokai publication hei 11-189906 communique
In patent documentation 1 disclosed technology, in the making of trousers, the flatiron operation that is necessary to make the privileged site of rear body sheet dress material to stretch.
In patent documentation 2~4 disclosed such trousers, be necessary to use the special lining cloth that elastic fabric etc. has been made up, the making cost labour of trousers.
Patent documentation 5 disclosed trousers do not use special patterns for cutting-out, special lining cloth.But patent documentation 5 disclosed trousers extremely are difficult to Practical manufacturing.Namely, in the situation of the dress material that uses as fabric, the different part A of the telescopic level of longitudinal direction (warp thread direction)~E arranges at transverse direction (weft direction), but, because when making such fabric, apply tension force to warp thread, so, even telescopic level is different, also might be able to weave.But, from the state of grey cloth (fabric of the former state of casting off) during the operations such as concise operation, dyeing process, fabric becomes crooked, sinuate state.This be because, because substantially do not apply tension force to warp thread at concise operation, dyeing process etc., therefore, correspondingly produce contraction at warp thread direction with the telescopic level of warp thread, about having, do not shrink equably the width of fabric (the part A of the left side of Fig. 1 of patent documentation 5~D shrinks large, and the part E of right-hand part shrinks little), so, fabric does not have smooth, becomes crooked state.
The present invention does not use special flatiron operation, special lining cloth to provide a kind of in the making of trousers, can find out that the trousers of carrying stern are purpose.
In addition, the present invention is to provide a kind of stockinette that is fit to the making of such trousers etc., and namely not having the stockinette of the such problem of patent documentation 5 disclosed fabrics is purpose.
Summary of the invention
The present invention by be the weft backed cloth in the zone a little less than the elongation resistance in the above-mentioned strong zone of the elongation resistance ratios of the strong zone of the elongation resistance that will comprise weft direction and weft direction be used for fabric, have trousers of retractility at the transverse direction of trousers at least, it is characterized in that, the trousers that near the elongation resistance of the transverse direction at the position the trouser legs of the above-mentioned fabric of elongation resistance ratios of the transverse direction at the position of the huckle in the rear body sheet of above-mentioned fabric has by force retractility are like this reached above-mentioned purpose.
In trousers of the present invention, preferably with rear body sheet in the position of huckle same, near the elongation resistance of the transverse direction at the position the above-mentioned trouser legs of elongation resistance ratios of the transverse direction at the position of the huckle in predecessor's sheet of above-mentioned fabric or the position of belly is strong.
Have again, the position that the elongation resistance of the transverse direction in preferred existence and rear body sheet or the predecessor's sheet is strong is adjacent, have a little less than the above-mentioned strong position of elongation resistance ratios of transverse direction, and the position of the elongation resistance of the centre stronger than near the elongation resistance of the transverse direction at the position the above-mentioned trouser legs.
In trousers of the present invention, preferred after the strong position of the elongation resistance of transverse direction in the body sheet the upper end or have in the middle of the upper-end part of driving at position of elongation resistance in the little crotch cross point of trousers or found crotch.
Preferred trousers with retractility of the present invention, in the front that is the fabric of weft backed cloth, even the different position of elongation resistance of the transverse direction in trousers, also adopt identical fabric to design with yarn, the back side at above-mentioned fabric, the different position of elongation resistance of the transverse direction in trousers adopts different fabrics to design with yarn, the elastomeric yarn in the weft yarn or to comprise the composite yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate different at the different position of the elongation resistance of transverse direction with the ratio of other yarn.
In addition, the present invention is by is characterized in that, be weft yarn by elastomeric yarn or comprise the composite yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate and the stockinette that has at least retractility at weft direction that other yarn consists of, this stockinette is weft backed cloth, and above-mentioned purpose is realized at such stockinette that warp thread direction repeats in the weak zone of the elongation resistance in the above-mentioned strong zone of the zone that the elongation resistance of weft direction is strong and the elongation resistance ratios of weft direction.
Stockinette of the present invention also can be in above-mentioned stockinette, is the stockinette of the zone line of the intensity between the elongation resistance in the elongation resistance in above-mentioned strong zone and above-mentioned weak zone at the elongation resistance that weft direction is set between the zone a little less than the elongation resistance in the above-mentioned strong zone of the elongation resistance ratios of the strong zone of the elongation resistance of weft direction and weft direction.
Preferably in stockinette of the present invention, by each decorative pattern circulation of warp thread direction mark is set.In the circulation of a decorative pattern between this mark and mark, the zone a little less than comprising an above-mentioned strong zone and being configured in two of its both sides, or also between two zones, comprise above-mentioned zone line.
Preferred above-mentioned mark is to form by any one the mark in the fabric tissue of the color that changes fabric tissue, yarn and selvedge section.
Preferably in stockinette of the present invention, the fabric of the weft yarn in the front of weft backed cloth is all identical in above-mentioned each zone with the yarn design, the fabric of the weft yarn at the back side is different because of above-mentioned each zone with the yarn design, change elastomeric yarn or comprise the ratio of composite yarn and other the yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate, make the elongation resistance in above-mentioned each zone different.
The invention effect
Because trousers of the present invention are the trousers that have retractility at the transverse direction of trousers, so, even the trousers of the size that dress and health are close to can not produce narrow sense yet.And, if the trousers of the size that dress and health are close to, near the elongation resistance of the transverse direction at the position the elongation resistance of the transverse direction at the position of the huckle then in the body sheet (namely, with respect to the resistance that extends) and the trouser legs is compared by force, therefore, when being weak power, be difficult to elongation, have the effect that the rear side of huckle of having worn the people of trousers is tied tight.And, same when wearing girdle, wear trousers if make the strong position of buttocks and the elongation resistance of the transverse direction of trousers compare upwards to lift, then become carry stern state.In addition, in trousers of the present invention, because part does not produce gauffer substantially below buttocks, so, can not find out that buttocks is sagging.
Like this, according to the present invention, can when the making of trousers, not use special flatiron operation, special lining cloth to obtain to find out the trousers of carrying stern.
If the position of the huckle in the elongation resistance of the transverse direction at the position of the huckle in predecessor's sheet of trousers and the rear body sheet is strong elongation resistance equally, then the all-round of huckle can be tied tight, especially have the lax such effect that does not go out from the appearance interior leg.
If the position of the huckle in the elongation resistance of the transverse direction at the position of the belly in predecessor's sheet of trousers and the rear body sheet is strong elongation resistance equally, then belly can be tied tight.
In addition, at the elongation resistance of transverse direction in the large situation of the difference on strong position and the weak position, if make two position direct neighbors, then exist produce in adjacent regions bloat, the situation of gauffer, therefore, under these circumstances, bloat by making between two positions position that has the elongation resistance in the middle of having, can eliminating, gauffer.In the situation that poor little, the position of the elongation resistance in the middle of having can not exist yet.
In trousers of the present invention, if the upper end at the strong position of the elongation resistance of the transverse direction in the rear body sheet or have in the middle of the upper-end part of driving at position of elongation resistance in the little crotch cross point of trousers or found crotch, then more have hip-lifting effect.
According to the trousers with retractility of the present invention, in the front as the fabric of weft backed cloth, even the different position of elongation resistance of the transverse direction in trousers, also adopt identical fabric to design with yarn, the back side at above-mentioned fabric, the different position of the elongation resistance of the transverse direction in trousers adopts different fabrics to design with yarn, the elastomeric yarn in the weft yarn or contain the composite yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate and the ratio of other yarn in the different position difference of the elongation resistance of transverse direction.
Like this, according to the present invention, correspondingly change elastomeric yarn or comprise the composite yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate and the ratio of other yarn with the elongation resistance.Because elastomeric yarn or comprise the composite yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate and other yarn in, dyeability is different, so, if in weft yarn, use the different yarn of these dyeabilities, then exist because of color and become the situation that horizontal stripe manifests, elongation resistance different position becomes different tones, and existing because of color becomes the situation that decorative pattern clearly manifests.But, in the present invention, because the dress material that uses is made weft backed cloth, the fabric separately that changes individually the weft yarn that consists of positive weft yarn and the formation back side designs with yarn, so, integrally adopted identical fabric with the face of the weft backed cloth of the yarn design table side as trousers if will not extend the impact of resistance, to correspondingly adopt different fabrics with the face of the yarn design dorsal part as trousers from the elongation resistance, then the impact of resistance is not extended in the outside of trousers, integrally become identical tone, can make its outward appearance identical with common trousers.
Stockinette of the present invention is weft yarn by elastomeric yarn or comprises the composite yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate and the stockinette that has at least retractility at weft direction that other yarn consists of, this stockinette is weft backed cloth, it is characterized in that, the stockinette that repeat at warp thread direction in the weak zone of the elongation resistance in the above-mentioned strong zone of the zone that the elongation resistance of weft direction is strong and the elongation resistance ratios of weft direction can be made the trousers with retractility of the present invention by this stockinette.
In stockinette of the present invention, when the elongation resistance that is provided with weft direction between the zone a little less than the elongation resistance in the above-mentioned strong zone of the elongation resistance ratios of the strong zone of the elongation resistance of weft direction and weft direction is the elongation resistance in above-mentioned strong zone and than above-mentioned weak zone also during the zone line of the intensity between the elongation resistance in weak zone, with regard to the elongation resistance of transverse direction, can increase elongation resistance poor in strong zone and weak zone.
Preferably in stockinette of the present invention, by each decorative pattern circulation of warp thread direction mark is set, by at fabric mark being set, can carry out rightly the setting-out of each parts of trousers.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 (a) is the front view of having worn the state of trousers in the past, Fig. 1 (b) is the front view of having worn the state of trousers of the present invention, Fig. 1 (c) is the side view of having worn the state of trousers in the past, and Fig. 1 (d) is the side view of having worn the state of trousers of the present invention.
Fig. 2 (a) is the top view in front among the embodiment of expression stockinette of the present invention, and Fig. 2 (b) is the top view at its back side of expression.
Fig. 3 is the curve map of elongation resistance of the weft direction among the embodiment of expression stockinette of the present invention.
Fig. 4 is that expression will be as the women of an embodiment of trousers of the present invention with the parts setting-out of the drawers top view at the state of stockinette of the present invention.
Fig. 5 (a) is cutting parts shown in Figure 4 and the front view of the trousers of the present invention that are sewn into, and Fig. 5 (b) is its rearview.In addition, in order to illustrate, to the strong position of the elongation resistance of transverse direction and the position of the elongation resistance in the middle of having implement oblique line and represent, but in the table side the such decorative pattern of oblique line has not appearred applying.
Fig. 6 is that expression will be as the top view of the state of the parts setting-out of the seven-tenths trousers of other embodiment of trousers of the present invention.
Fig. 7 is that expression is with the top view of the state of the parts setting-out of the seven-tenths trousers of the another embodiment of trousers of the present invention.
Fig. 8 (a) is cutting parts shown in Figure 7 and the front view of the trousers of the present invention that are sewn into, and Fig. 8 (b) is its rearview.In addition, in order to illustrate, to the strong position of the elongation resistance of transverse direction and the position of the elongation resistance in the middle of having apply oblique line and represent, still, the such decorative pattern of oblique line has not appearred applying in the table side.
The specific embodiment
Below, in accordance with the embodiments illustrated, explain the present invention.
Trousers of the present invention are the trousers that have at least retractility at the transverse direction of trousers, and the weft backed cloth 1 of the regional B a little less than the elongation resistance of the regional A that the regional A that as shown in Figure 2 the elongation resistance that comprises weft direction is strong and the elongation resistance ratios of weft direction are strong is used for fabric and makes.
Trousers of the present invention are that rear body sheet 3(by making fabric is referring to Fig. 5) in the elongation resistance ratios trouser legs of transverse direction at position of huckle near the elongation resistance of transverse direction at position strong, and can find out the trousers of carrying stern.
The stockinette 1 that is used for making trousers of the present invention is weft backed cloth, is that weft yarn is by elastomeric yarn or comprise the composite yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate and the stockinette that has at least retractility at weft direction that other yarn consists of.
Among Fig. 2, if stockinette of the present invention 1 is weft backed cloth, then the fabric tissue at front and the back side is not specially limited, and can be three foundation weave, its alternative constructions such as plain weave, satin weave, twill-weave (twills, twill).
In addition, stockinette 1 of the present invention can be the unidirectional stockinette that only has retractility at weft direction, also can be the bi-directional stretch fabrics that has retractility in warp thread direction and this two direction of weft direction.
Although the elastomeric yarn that uses among the present invention also can be the naked yarn of the elastomer former state being done resultant yarn, the wrap yarn (covering yarn, embedding heart yarn and twist yarn, composit false twisting yarn etc.) of the elastomer that has preferably extended with other fibre-coated.As elastomer, the spandex yarns such as optimization polyurethane class elastomer, polyesters elastomer.Also can use the IR fiber yarns such as natural rubber, synthetic rubber.Other fiber that coats elastomer can be natural fiber, can be synthetic fibers also, and the covered fiber in the covering yarn can be the processing yarn of crispaturaing, and also can be the straight yarn of crispaturaing and processing.
The composite yarn that comprises polytrimethylene terephthalate that uses among the present invention is the yarn that is made of the polymer that will be made of polytrimethylene terephthalate and the polymer-bonded composite fibre that becomes juxtaposition type or eccentric core-sheath-type that is made of poly terephthalic acid.This yarn has potential the manifesting property of crispaturaing, and is to have by the heat treatment phenomenon to crispatura, or begins to manifest the yarn of the trickle ability of crispaturaing before the heat treatment, is and the distinguishing yarn of common false twist processing yarn.The composite yarn that comprises polytrimethylene terephthalate has excellent elastic force (extensibility) and elastic force restoration (extending restorative), is especially to compare the large yarn of elastic force restoration with common false twist processing yarn.
Preferably as elastomeric yarn, comprise that other the yarn that is used for weft yarn beyond the composite yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate is the processing yarns of crispaturaing such as false twist processing yarn.
Among the present invention, warp thread is not particularly limited raw material, in the situation that make unidirectional stockinette, can be the yarn that is made of natural fibers such as cotton, hair, fiber crops, also can be the processing yarn of crispaturaing.In the situation that be bi-directional stretch fabrics, need only the composite yarn that warp thread uses elastomeric yarn or comprises polytrimethylene terephthalate.
In an embodiment of stockinette of the present invention 1 shown in Figure 2, shown in Fig. 2 (b), the elongation resistance that the weak regional B of the elongation resistance of the strong regional A of the elongation resistance ratios of the strong regional A of the elongation resistance of weft direction, weft direction, weft direction are arranged is the zone line C of the intensity between the elongation resistance of the elongation resistance of strong regional A and weak regional B, at the both sides of strong regional A configuration zone line C, these regional A, B, C repeat at warp thread direction.
Each the decorative pattern circulation that repeats by these regional A, B, C arranges mark 2.Mark 2 is for the parts of the setting-out of each parts that easily carries out rightly trousers, can change the color of fabric tissue, yarn or the fabric tissue of selvedge section and make mark.
In addition, in the embodiment shown in Figure 2, have three kinds of regional A, B, C, still, at the embodiment as other, the elongation resistance of weft direction also can not configure zone line in the situation that strong zone and weak zone are too many not poor.Otherwise, in the situation that strong zone and weak area difference are large, also can configure different a plurality of zone line C, C ', the C of elongation resistance of weft direction at the elongation resistance of weft direction " and (not shown go out).
Shown in Fig. 2 (a), in the face side of weft backed cloth 1 of the present invention, the fabric of weft yarn is all identical at each regional A, B, C with the yarn design.Relative therewith, in the rear side of weft backed cloth, the fabric of weft yarn because each regional A, B, C are different, makes the elongation resistance of the weft direction among each regional A, B, the C different with the yarn design.
Different for the elongation resistance that makes the weft direction among each regional A, B, the C, following method is arranged.
Comprise that at the yarn that will use as the weft yarn of the rear side of latitude two-fold stockinette 1 yarn raw material and rugosity make that (a kind of is elastomeric yarn or the composite yarn that comprises polytrimethylene terephthalate in two kinds the situation, be other yarn in addition), weft yarn in each regional A, B, C, change elastomeric yarn or comprise the ratio of composite yarn and other the yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate, make the elongation resistance of the weft direction among each regional A, B, the C different.
The yarn that will use as the weft yarn of the rear side of latitude two-fold stockinette 1 comprises that the raw material of yarn and rugosity make more than three kinds.For example, extend the strong regional A of resistance and weak regional C, using the different elastomeric yarn of rugosity (fiber number) of heart yarn.The elastomeric yarn that fiber number is large is large with respect to the resistance of elongation.Also can change in the lump the ratio of yarn with other.
The elongation resistance of the weft direction among each regional A, B, the C can be take JIS L 1096(1999) the assay method of percentage elongation of 8.14 flexible fabric be the benchmark investigation.Common percentage elongation take JIS as the basis is to have applied 14.7N(1.5Kg) load the time percentage elongation, be with when this load, what are the percentage elongation of problem in elongation.But, in the present invention, be that the resistance (, elongation difficulty) take the elongation when having worn trousers is the percentage elongation of problem.(namely, waistline, buttocks) is the thickest locational girth of the waist of human body around the waist, although the difference around the waist under standing state and the state of sitting down is different because of the bodily form, and, 3~10cm at most namely.Namely, in the situation of having worn the trousers of being close to health, the dress material of trousers mostly is 3~10cm in the length that transverse direction stretches most in the position of buttocks line.
Therefore, for investigating the elongation resistance of weft direction of the present invention, at the test film of the size of the long regulation of weft direction (for example prepare from each regional A, B, C respectively, length 30cm, width 3cm), use is with the constant speed of self-tape deck elongation shape cupping machine etc., with the grasping interval of regulation (for example, 20cm), with constant speed tension test sheet, the length of measuring elongation is the power (load) in certain position between 20mm~50mm.Accordingly, for example to make test film elongation 40mm need how much power to grasp interval 20cm as can be known, namely, what are with respect to the resistance of elongation.Like this, if the measured value of the test film of each regional A, B, C relatively then becomes regional A as can be known〉regional C〉order of regional B.
Fig. 3 is that each regional A, B, the C of expression from an embodiment of stockinette of the present invention prepares test film (length 30cm, width 3cm), make to grasp and be spaced apart 20cm, with the speed tension test sheet of 30 ± 2cm/min, measured the figure of curve map of the elongation resistance of weft direction.The longitudinal axis is with newton (N) expression tensile force (representing as test force among Fig. 3), and transverse axis represents the length (among Fig. 3, representing as stroke) of extending with mm.
In the stockinette of this embodiment, carry out following such fabric and design with yarn.Warp thread is at the reeled covering yarn of polyester false twist processing yarn of 167dtex of the heart yarn of the polyurethane of 44dtex.The weft yarn of the table side of backed cloth is all identical at regional A, B, C, namely, same with warp thread, is at the reeled covering yarn of polyester false twist processing yarn of 167dtex of the heart yarn of the polyurethane of 44dtex.The weft yarn of the dorsal part of backed cloth uses the composite yarn of the polytrimethylene terephthalate that comprises 167dtex and as other these two kinds of the polyester false twist processing yarns of 84dtex of yarn.Fitty(Off イ Star テ イ among each regional A, B, the C) and the ratio of false twist processing yarn be 20:1 at the strong regional A of the elongation resistance of weft direction, the regional B a little less than the elongation resistance of weft direction is 1:20, is 5:5 at zone line C.
Among Fig. 3, the line that symbol a represents represents to extend the extended length of the strong regional A of resistance and the relation of tensile force, the line that symbol b represents represents to extend the extended length of the weak regional B of resistance and the relation of tensile force, and the line that symbol c represents represents to extend the extended length of zone line C of resistance between and the relation of tensile force.For example, be the position of 42mm in extended length (stroke), in strong regional A and weak regional B, in the situation that this embodiment, there be the poor of elongation resistance about 3N.
Fig. 4 has been illustrated in stockinette setting-out of the present invention as the women of an embodiment of the trousers of the present invention top view with the state of the parts of drawers.
The width of the stockinette of this embodiment is 118cm, the length (length of warp thread direction) of one decorative pattern circulation is 121cm, have the zone line C of strong regional A, 4cm of zone line C, 23cm of weak regional B, 4cm of 67cm and the weak regional B of 23cm in decorative pattern circulation, it is repeated.In addition, in the present invention, the length of the width of stockinette, these each regional A, B, C is not limited to situation about illustrating among this embodiment.
In Fig. 4, in order to represent the position of each regional A, B, C, equally regional A and C are applied oblique line with Fig. 2 (b), the expression setting-out state, still, in the situation that actual setting-out all can in the front of fabric or any of the back side.
In the embodiment of Fig. 4, the state of parts of trousers of in-leg 88cm of two people amounts that has been illustrated in setting-out in the three decorative patterns circulations, about configuration after two groups body sheet 3 and about two groups of predecessor's sheets 4, in the gap of rear body sheet 3 and predecessor's sheet 4, blank position configuration pocket, waistband etc.In this embodiment, as shown in Figure 4, the strong regional A of elongation resistance is the position that is positioned at huckle by setting-out at rear body sheet 3 and predecessor's sheet 4.The upper-end part of driving of the strong regional A of rear body sheet 3 in little crotch cross point (namely, seat suture 31 and femoribus internus line 32, the front crotch suture 41 of predecessor's sheet 4 and the point that femoribus internus line 42 is reported to the leadship after accomplishing a task of rear body sheet 3, seam the crotch crosswise of trousers the position of reporting to the leadship after accomplishing a task).In addition, also can stagger to vertical crotch side or crotch side from little crotch cross point in the upper end of strong regional A.In the situation that strong regional A staggers to crotch side, the upper-end part of driving of preferred zone line C is in little crotch cross point or found crotch.
In the patterns for cutting-out shown in Figure 4, the height direction (length direction) of trousers is warp thread directions of fabric 1, and the transverse direction of trousers is weft directions of fabric 1.The trousers of making by patterns for cutting-out shown in Figure 4 are illustrated in Fig. 5, and the STA representation of having worn it at Fig. 1 (b) and (d).In Fig. 5, in order to illustrate, the position A that the elongation resistance of transverse direction is strong and have in the middle of the position C of elongation resistance apply oblique line and represent, but the table side has not applied the such decorative pattern of oblique line.Because shown in Fig. 5 (a) and Fig. 5 (b), the strong position A of the elongation resistance of transverse direction is configured in the position of huckle in predecessor's sheet 4 of trousers and rear body sheet 3, so, such as Fig. 1 (b) and (d), this trousers performance hip-lifting effect and the effect that femoribus internus is tied tight.
Fig. 6 represents to use the stockinette identical with aforesaid stockinette, the state of the parts of the seven-tenths trousers (referring to that trouser legs are cut off the trousers of such shape on the way) of the in-leg 56cm of setting-out three people amount in the circulation of four decorative patterns.About configuration after three groups body sheet 3 and about three groups of predecessor's sheets 4, in the gap of rear body sheet 3 and predecessor's sheet 4, blank position configuration pocket, waistband etc.The seven-tenths trousers of this embodiment and embodiment shown in Figure 4 are same, and the strong regional A of elongation resistance is the position that is positioned at huckle by setting-out at rear body sheet 3 and predecessor's sheet 4.
Fig. 7 is same with Fig. 6, use the stockinette identical with aforesaid stockinette, in four decorative patterns circulations setting-out other embodiment of state of parts of seven-tenths trousers of in-leg 56cm of three people amounts, about configuration after three groups body sheet 3 and about three groups of predecessor's sheets 4, in the gap of rear body sheet 3 and predecessor's sheet 4, blank position configuration pocket, waistband.In this embodiment, the strong regional A of elongation resistance is the position that is positioned at huckle by setting-out at rear body sheet 3, is the position that is positioned at belly by setting-out at predecessor's sheet 4.
The seven-tenths trousers of making by patterns for cutting-out shown in Figure 7 be illustrated in Fig. 8 (in addition, same with Fig. 5, in order to illustrate, the position A that the elongation resistance of transverse direction is strong and have in the middle of the position C of elongation resistance apply oblique line and represent).As shown in Figure 8, in the trousers of this embodiment, not only have hip-lifting effect, because have the strong position A of elongation resistance of transverse direction at belly, so, also have by wearing trousers the effect that belly is tied tight.
In trousers of the present invention, the position A that the elongation resistance of the transverse direction in rear body sheet 3 and the predecessor's sheet 4 is strong is not limited to illustrated embodiment.For example, in rear body sheet 3, the position A that the elongation resistance of transverse direction is strong also can be configured in the top from the huckle of the slightly below of little crotch cross point to vertical crotch, in addition, in predecessor's sheet 4, the position A that the elongation resistance of transverse direction is strong also can be configured in the position of knee.In the situation at the position that strong position A is configured in knee, stretch even under the state of having worn trousers, repeat the bending of knee, also be difficult to become the state that the position of the knee of trousers bloats, the state that so-called knee shows.
In addition, in the present invention, the length of the length of the width of stockinette, decorative pattern circulation and each regional A, B, C is not limited to the illustrated embodiment for Fig. 4, if change the width of stockinette, the length of decorative pattern circulation etc., or change the length of the trousers of made, then change the state of setting-out thereupon.
Symbol description
1: stockinette; 2: mark; 3: rear body sheet; 4: predecessor's sheet; A: the strong zone of elongation resistance of weft direction; B: the zone that the elongation resistance of weft direction is weak; C: the elongation resistance of weft direction is middle zone; A: the line of the extended length of the regional A that expression elongation resistance is strong and the relation of tensile force; B: the line of the extended length of the regional B that expression elongation resistance is weak and the relation of tensile force: c: expression elongation resistance is the line of the relation of the extended length of zone line C between the two and tensile force.

Claims (12)

1. trousers with retractility, be the weft backed cloth in the zone that will comprise that the elongation resistance in the above-mentioned strong zone of the elongation resistance ratios of zone that the elongation resistance of weft direction is strong and weft direction is weak be used for fabric, have trousers of retractility at the transverse direction of trousers at least, it is characterized in that, near the elongation resistance of the transverse direction at the position the trouser legs of the above-mentioned fabric of elongation resistance ratios of the transverse direction at the position of the huckle in the rear body sheet of above-mentioned fabric is strong.
2. trousers with retractility as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that, same with the position of huckle in the above-mentioned rear body sheet, near the elongation resistance of the transverse direction at the position the above-mentioned trouser legs of elongation resistance ratios of the transverse direction at the position of the huckle in predecessor's sheet of above-mentioned fabric is strong.
3. trousers with retractility as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that, same with the position of huckle in the above-mentioned rear body sheet, near the elongation resistance of the transverse direction at the position the above-mentioned trouser legs of elongation resistance ratios of the transverse direction at the position of the belly in predecessor's sheet of above-mentioned fabric is strong.
4. such as each the described trousers with retractility in the claims 1 to 3, it is characterized in that, the position that the elongation resistance of the transverse direction in existence and above-mentioned rear body sheet or the predecessor's sheet is strong is adjacent, have a little less than the above-mentioned strong position of elongation resistance ratios of transverse direction, and the position of the elongation resistance of the centre stronger than near the elongation resistance of the transverse direction at the position the above-mentioned trouser legs.
5. such as each the described trousers with retractility in the claim 1 to 4, it is characterized in that, the upper end at the position that the elongation resistance of the transverse direction in the above-mentioned rear body sheet is strong or have in the middle of the upper-end part of driving at position of elongation resistance in the little crotch cross point of trousers or found crotch.
6. such as each the described trousers with retractility in the claim 1 to 5, it is characterized in that, in the front that is the fabric of above-mentioned weft backed cloth, even the different position of elongation resistance of the transverse direction in trousers, also adopt identical fabric to design with yarn, the back side at above-mentioned fabric, the different position of elongation resistance of the transverse direction in trousers, adopt different fabrics to design with yarn, the elastomeric yarn in the weft yarn or to comprise the composite yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate different at the different position of the elongation resistance of transverse direction with the ratio of other yarn.
7. stockinette, it is characterized in that, be weft yarn by elastomeric yarn or comprise the composite yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate and the stockinette that has at least retractility at weft direction that other yarn consists of, this stockinette is weft backed cloth, and repeat at warp thread direction in the weak zone of elongation resistance in the above-mentioned strong zone of the zone that the elongation resistance of weft direction is strong and the elongation resistance ratios of weft direction.
8. stockinette, it is characterized in that, be weft yarn by elastomeric yarn or comprise the composite yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate and the stockinette that has at least retractility at weft direction that other yarn consists of, this stockinette is weft backed cloth, by the strong zone of the elongation resistance of weft direction, the weak zone of elongation resistance in the above-mentioned strong zone of the elongation resistance ratios of weft direction, the elongation resistance of weft direction is the intensity between the elongation resistance in the elongation resistance in above-mentioned strong zone and above-mentioned weak zone, and the zone line between above-mentioned strong zone and above-mentioned weak zone consists of above-mentioned strong zone, repeat at warp thread direction in above-mentioned zone line and above-mentioned weak zone.
9. stockinette as claimed in claim 7 is characterized in that, by each decorative pattern circulation of warp thread direction mark is set, in the decorative pattern circulation between this mark and mark, and the zone a little less than having an above-mentioned strong zone and being configured in its both sides above-mentioned.
10. stockinette as claimed in claim 8, it is characterized in that, each decorative pattern circulation by warp thread direction arranges mark, in the circulation of a decorative pattern between this mark and mark, has an above-mentioned strong zone, be configured in the above-mentioned weak zone of its both sides and be configured in above-mentioned strong zone and above-mentioned a little less than the zone between zone line.
11. such as claim 9 or 10 described stockinettes, it is characterized in that, above-mentioned mark is to form by any one the mark in the fabric tissue of the color that changes fabric tissue, yarn and selvedge section.
12. such as each the described stockinette in the claim 7 to 11, it is characterized in that, in above-mentioned weft backed cloth, the fabric of positive weft yarn is all identical in above-mentioned each zone with the yarn design, the fabric of the weft yarn at the back side is different because of above-mentioned each zone with the yarn design, change elastomeric yarn or comprise the ratio of composite yarn and other the yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate, make the elongation resistance in above-mentioned each zone different.
CN201180020969.XA 2010-04-26 2011-04-18 Stretch woven fabric and elastic trousers Expired - Fee Related CN102858194B (en)

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