CN102534964B - Weaving method for filament wool-like plain cloth, filament wool-like plain cloth and reed - Google Patents
Weaving method for filament wool-like plain cloth, filament wool-like plain cloth and reed Download PDFInfo
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- CN102534964B CN102534964B CN201110460445.4A CN201110460445A CN102534964B CN 102534964 B CN102534964 B CN 102534964B CN 201110460445 A CN201110460445 A CN 201110460445A CN 102534964 B CN102534964 B CN 102534964B
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- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 claims description 24
- 241001580935 Aglossa pinguinalis Species 0.000 claims description 10
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- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 abstract description 3
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- VQLYBLABXAHUDN-UHFFFAOYSA-N bis(4-fluorophenyl)-methyl-(1,2,4-triazol-1-ylmethyl)silane;methyl n-(1h-benzimidazol-2-yl)carbamate Chemical compound C1=CC=C2NC(NC(=O)OC)=NC2=C1.C=1C=C(F)C=CC=1[Si](C=1C=CC(F)=CC=1)(C)CN1C=NC=N1 VQLYBLABXAHUDN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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Abstract
The invention provides a weaving method for filament wool-like plain cloth, the filament wool-like plain cloth and a drawing-in reed to overcome the following defects of the plain cloth in the prior art: the cloth has no pattern change, the specular phenomenon is serious, and bright spots can be formed on the cloth after the cloth is used for a certain time. The reed provided by the invention is a reed with space-varied dents; when the reed is adopted for weaving cloth, warp yarns as well as weft yarns are filaments of 40 to 70 D, the coefficient of the weaving difficulty of the cloth is greater than or equal to 0.9 and less than or equal to 1; and the number of warp yarns in every large dent space is equal to that of warp yarns in every small dent space. The plain cloth woven by adopting the weaving method is characterized in that tiny protrusions and recesses are distributed between any two adjacent stripes in the warp direction, and the punctiform protrusions and the recesses serve a diffuse reflection to light rays, so as to overcome the defects that the conventional plain cloth is highly reflective, bright spots are liable to be formed on the surface of the cloth, and the surface of the plain cloth feels smooth and hard.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to the tabby weaving method of a kind of long filament simulate wool, long filament simulate wool plain cloth and pass use reed.
Background technology
Novel brief fabric design is the pursuit that designers never stopped always.Since new century, the sportswear that youth, fashion, individual character show is more and more subject to youthful favor, individual character, fashion, flat in inspired, inspired and don't depart from simple.People's pursuit, exploitation with great concentration of designerss innovation, the perfection to creation type changes by processing type jointly to have realized Chinese fabric, and in this pursuit innovation, perfect, the market atmosphere that shows unique characteristics, unique innovative development seems particularly important.
In recent years, on market, the exploitation of eiderdown shell fabric differs from one another, but the base specification of fabric mostly adopts highly dense plain weave to reach the effect of anti-suede, or realizes anti-suede by coating, pad pasting, the method such as lined.In autumn and winter in 2010 feather dress fabric selection, designerss have selected the fabric of plain weave specification simultaneously.Because the advantage such as plain weave has close structure compared with its hetero-organization, cloth cover is smooth, gap is little, rear handling ease, anti-suede are effective, and plain cloth cloth cover is smooth, after the processing such as press polish or transparent adhesive tape coating cloth cover gloss evenly harmonious, mirror effect is good.That ready-made clothes has is wrinkle resistant, waterproof etc. is functional, has become at present international popular trend, and more domestic famous feather dress fabric producers purchase the high-tech plain weave basic organization fabric of not only ventilative, the wrinkle resistant but also environmental protection of waterproof in recent years one after another.Meanwhile, various rear arrangements processing also gives fabric and adds lustre and make it to have good serviceability, becomes the key factor that attracts consumer to buy.
Plain cloth, especially long filament plain cloth, its advantages, shortcoming is also obvious, and the first, cloth cover is smooth, there is no the variation of curve and tone, lacks cordiality and passion; The second, through after arrange after cloth cover minute surface phenomenon serious, light beam is concentrated, and belongs to mirror-reflection, aurora are serious, tone is not soft, takes a period of time can produce speck at cloth cover, gives the unclean sensation of people, easily makes cloth cover aobvious old; The 3rd, cloth cover is sliding, Boardy Feeling, and exterior quality is low.
Spacing between the existing dent that passes reed equates, by the difference of the warp thread quantity of wearing in each dent, adjust the density of warp thread, the shortcoming of this kind of reed is: the gap between each root dent all equates, after penetrating identical radical warp thread between dent, the distance that every warp thread is got is identical, be that on whole cloth cover, warp count is uniform relatively, when will obtain the warp thread of different densities on same width fabric, need between each dent, penetrate the yarn of different radicals, warp thread radical changes easily to be misdrawed, the fabric obtaining can only be seersucker fabric simultaneously, at cloth cover, form bubble, can not obtain simulate wool plain cloth.
Summary of the invention
The cloth cover that the object of the invention is to exist according to existing plain cloth does not have figuratum variation, cloth cover minute surface phenomenon is serious, taking a period of time can produce speck at cloth cover, easily cause cloth cover to show old defect, provide a kind of after taking cloth cover be difficult for to produce speck and have the tabby weaving method of long filament simulate wool of change in pattern, used passing reed when adopting the method woven long filament simulate wool plain cloth and weaving.
The object of the invention is to realize by following scheme:
A kind of reed, comprise slay and dent, on described slay, be staggeredly equipped with little spacing dent district and large spacing dent district, described dent is comprised of large spacing dent and little spacing dent, spacing between described little spacing dent equates, spacing between described large spacing dent equates, the little spacing dent district described in described little spacing dent is positioned at, and described large spacing dent is positioned at described large spacing dent district;
Described in each, the quantity of the large spacing dent in large spacing dent district equates, described in each, the quantity of the little spacing dent in little spacing dent district equates;
The quantity of the large spacing dent in the large spacing dent district described in each is unequal, and described in each, the quantity of the little spacing dent in little spacing dent district is unequal;
The density difference of the density of described little spacing dent and described large spacing dent is 6-10%;
The density difference of the density of described little spacing dent and described large spacing dent is 6.5-9%.
The tabby weaving method of a kind of long filament simulate wool, adopt one of the every described reed of claim 1-5 to weave, described warp thread is 40-70D long filament, described weft yarn is 40-70D long filament, the Weaving Difficulty Index of described fabric is more than or equal to 0.9 and is less than or equal to 1, described in each, between large spacing dent, equates with the warp thread quantity penetrating between little spacing dent described in each;
The dent density of described large spacing dent is 17-22 plumage/cm;
Described fabric heat treated, heat treated temperature is that the time of described heat treated is 30-45 second lower than 10 ℃-30 ℃ of the softening points of described long filament.
A kind of long filament simulate wool plain cloth, described fabric face has parallel protrusion warp-wise striped, between adjacent warp-wise striped, be distributed with small spot-like projections and depression, described fabric is provided with 3 He Dijingmi districts 4, high sley district, described high sley district 3 is crisscross arranged with described Di Jingmi district 4, the described weft yarn that is positioned at described high sley district is positioned at same plane, the high sley warp thread in described high sley district and described weft yarn interweave and form described warp-wise striped, be positioned at the mutual edge of adjacent weft in described Di Jingmi district perpendicular to rising and falling and be crisscross arranged up and down in the direction of fabric plane, the described low of described Di Jingmi district interweaves and forms described spot-like projections and depression through crammed yarn and the described weft yarn that is crisscross arranged of drifting along,
The density that is positioned at the high sley warp thread in described high sley district 3 is 6-10% with the difference that is positioned at the low density through crammed yarn in described Di Jingmi district 4.
Adopt the woven plain cloth of method of the present invention, its reed has little spacing dent and large spacing dent, so when penetrating identical radical warp thread between each dent, can obtain high sley warp thread and low through crammed yarn, the tension force of high sley warp thread is greater than the low tension force through crammed yarn, high sley warp thread and be lowly crisscross arranged through crammed yarn, while weaving, can form different tensile regions at fabric face, when fabric knitting degree-of-difficulty factor is 0.9-1, dent density difference is 6-10%, the fabric that to obtain through close difference be 6-10%, can through the corresponding fabric face of crammed yarn, form microspike and depression one by one low, at the corresponding fabric face of high sley warp thread, form warp-wise striped, adjacent two warp-wise stripeds are like two parallel rails, be distributed between two warp-wise stripeds with the low microspike forming through the corresponding weft yarn of crammed yarn, acquisition is distributed with the long filament simulate wool plain cloth of microspike and depression between adjacent two warp-wise stripeds, in the tabby low-density warp thread of this simulate wool region, adjacent two weft yarns rise and fall and are staggered each other, uneven.
Fabric of the present invention, owing to being distributed with warp-wise striped at fabric face, between this adjacent warp-wise striped, be distributed with spot-like projections, two adjacent warp-wise stripeds are as rail, the spot-like projections distributing therebetween and depression, as the pillow stone being scattered between rail, form the pattern effect of other tool style at cloth cover; The spot-like projections distributing between adjacent warp-wise striped produces diffuse reflection with depression to light, not only overcome existing plain cloth height reflective, at fabric face, easily form speck, sliding, the hard shortcoming of feel, and the tension force of Qi Shang Di Jingmi district fabric is little, adjacent weft is staggered up and down, makes fabric have wool fabric and the soft and moist feel of pile fabric; Article two, the spot-like projections distributing between warp-wise striped makes long filament plain weave wool-like fabric of the present invention have the style of jacquard fabric concurrently with depression, has improved the class of fabric.
Adopt the reed of structure of the present invention, owing to being staggeredly equipped with large spacing dent district and little spacing dent district on slay, the dent spacing in large spacing dent district is large, and the dent spacing in little spacing dent district is little, so can obtain the warp-wise striped of density when penetrating the warp thread of identical radical between dent; And wear not etc. when close warp thread because the warp thread quantity penetrating between dent equates, operating personnel are difficult for misdrawing.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is long filament simulate wool plain cloth high sley warp thread of the present invention and lowly through crammed yarn Distributed Implementation illustration, is intended to;
Fig. 2 is long filament simulate wool plain cloth embodiment longitudinal stripe effect schematic diagram of the present invention;
Fig. 3 is that fabric weft yarn of the present invention and warp thread are at high sley district arrangement mode schematic diagram;
Fig. 4 is fabric weft yarn of the present invention and warp thread Di Jingmi district arrangement mode schematic diagram;
Fig. 5 is that the present invention passes with reed example structure schematic diagram.
Description of reference numerals
1-warp thread 2-weft yarn 3-high sley district 4-Di Jingmi district 5-is low through the large spacing dent of the low dent density region of crammed yarn 6-high sley warp thread 7-high dent density region 8-11-slay 12-little spacing dent 13-
The specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with specific embodiment, the present invention is conducted further description.
As shown in Figure 1-2, long filament simulate wool plain cloth of the present invention, its Weaving Difficulty Index is 0.9-1, and surface presents parallel protrusion warp-wise striped, between adjacent warp-wise striped, is distributed with small spot-like projections and depression, this projection and depression are very little, with the naked eye be difficult for observing, but touch and be easy to feel with hand, this projection can be systematicness and distribute, also can be scrambling and distribute, this microspike makes fabric have woolen feel and outward appearance with depression.The present invention can be solid coloured cloth, can be also multicolour cloth, and when the color of warp thread and weft yarn is different, the spot-like projections of fabric face is obvious all the more.
Long filament simulate wool plain cloth of the present invention is weaved as follows: fabric substrate is mutually drifted along and is interwoven by warp thread 2 and weft yarn 1, two apparent surfaces that on matrix, two adjacent warp thread and weft yarn lay respectively at described cloth matrix.Warp thread 2 and weft yarn 1 can adopt the long filament at the 40-70 dawn of any material.Adopt passing of particular design of the present invention to use reed Woven fabric, this reed to be provided with high dent density region 7 and low dent density region 8, high dent density region 7 and low dent density region 8 are crisscross arranged on slay 11.The dent that is positioned at high dent density region is little spacing dent 12, and the dent that is positioned at low dent density region is large spacing dent 13.The spacing of little spacing dent 12 equates, the spacing of large spacing dent 13 equates, the large dent density of spacing dent 13 and the dent density difference of little spacing dent 12 are 6-10%, and fabric knitting degree-of-difficulty factor is more than or equal to 0.9 and be less than or equal to 1.Between each dent, penetrate equal amount warp thread, the fabric warp beam that obtains is like this corresponding has two density regions, 3 He Dijingmi districts 4, high sley district, 3 He Dijingmi districts 4, high sley district are crisscross arranged in warp beam, the warp thread that is positioned at high sley district 3 is high sley warp thread, the warp thread that is positioned at Di Jingmi district 4 is low through crammed yarn, and low through crammed yarn and high sley warp thread, through close difference, be 6%--10%.While weaving, according to the Weaving Difficulty Index of fabric, in conjunction with the thickness of warp thread and weft yarn, can obtain corresponding warp count and weft count.Preferably adopt same filling density, but be difficult to guarantee into weft density strict conformance when weaving, filling density also can change in the scope of ± 6.2-6.8%.In actual weaving, between each dent, generally penetrating warp thread number is 3.
Adopt the woven fabric of weaving method of the present invention, because the spacing of dent is not exclusively equal, there is the little spacing dent 12 and large spacing dent 13 that are crisscross arranged, the dent spacing of large spacing dent is greater than the dent spacing of little spacing dent, and the density difference of the two is 6-10%, and the Weaving Difficulty Index of fabric is 0.9-1, like this when penetrating between each dent after the warp thread of equal number, the corresponding high sley warp thread that density difference is 6-10% and low through crammed yarn that obtains, due in weaving process, different thread densities has different yarn tensions, the tension force of high sley warp thread is greater than the low tension force through crammed yarn, so when adjacent warp count is different, on gained fabric construction, can form different tensile regions, when weaving, the low yarn degree of crook through crammed yarn that tension force is less is less, compare and on the length direction with warp thread Di Jingmi district, high sley district warp thread, have certain length residue, simultaneously, weft yarn is understood mutual edge perpendicular to rising and falling up and down in the direction of fabric plane for balanced tension force reaches adjacent two weft yarns of constitutional balance.As shown in Figure 4, the extra length of warp thread is partly broken the arrangement mode of weft yarn, cause that weft yarn drifts along, adjacent weft is staggered up and down, to take unnecessary space, reach the equalization of strain in overall structure, outside Ci Dijingmi district weft yarn 2, spill warp thread 1 obvious, thereby weft yarn 2 forms microspike and depression one by one low through the corresponding fabric face of crammed yarn, and the convergent force of high sley warp thread is large, the weft yarn that interweaves is tight, as shown in Figure 3, weft yarn is almost positioned at same plane, expose not obvious, thereby form at the corresponding fabric face of high sley warp thread the warp-wise striped protruding, the warp-wise striped of adjacent two protrusions is like two parallel rails, be distributed between two warp-wise stripeds with low microspike and the depression forming through the corresponding weft yarn of crammed yarn, like the pillow stone being scattered between two rails, formed a kind of being scattered and rested the head on the long filament simulate wool plain cloth of stone shape projection and depression effect in the middle of adjacent two rail shape warp-wise lines.
The Weaving Difficulty Index E of fabric weighs the overall objective of difficulty of weaving size in fabric, it is calculated as follows:
E=【〈0.01371*(Dj
1/2+dw
1/2)〉/25.4】
2*Jm*Wm*2.54
2
Wherein: the red Buddhist nun's number of Dj-warp thread
The red Buddhist nun's number of Dw--weft yarn
Warp count on Jm-machine
Weft count on Wm-machine.
The Weaving Difficulty Index of fabric refers to fabric loom operation difficulty situation coefficient when weaving, and the large explanation fabric of coefficient is tight, and difficulty of weaving is large, and the bright fabric of coefficient novel is more sparse, and difficulty of weaving is little.
Through close difference, by following formula, calculate:
Density * 100% through close difference=(density of high sley warp thread-low density through crammed yarn)/high sley warp thread
Dent density difference is calculated by following formula:
Dent density * 100% of dent density difference=(the dent density of the dent density-little spacing dent of large spacing dent)/large spacing dent
By the woven fabric of the inventive method, do not need to process the long filament simulate wool plain cloth that can obtain being distributed with between warp-wise striped spot-like projections pattern through additional heat.
In order to obtain more obvious pattern effect, complete fabric is carried out to heat treated weaving, heating-up temperature is that heat treatment time is 30 seconds-45 seconds lower than 10 ℃-30 ℃ of the softening points of warp thread and weft yarn long filament used.Woven fabric is heat-treated, can increase high sley warp thread and low tension force difference through between crammed yarn, make pattern more obvious.Its reason is, when fabric is heat-treated, the thermal shrinkage force of the warp yarns bundle of differential tension after heating is different, the thermal shrinkage force that the size of its dimensional stability to heating in house is followed the larger yarn beam of thread density is larger, the less rule of thermal shrinkage force of the less yarn beam of density of yarn, fabric has expanded high sley warp thread and low convergent force difference through between crammed yarn after heating, high sley warp thread and the low length difference through crammed yarn have been strengthened, making has more staggered space with the low weft yarn interweaving through crammed yarn, form relatively more obvious spot-like projections and depression, simultaneously, the high sley warp thread weft yarn that interweaves is more tight, warp-wise striped is also relatively more obvious.In actual weaving process, due to post processings such as fabric all need to dye, while carrying out post processing, all can heat fabric, so fabric of the present invention does not need special heating treatment step conventionally, fabric is carried out adding man-hour as dyeing and finishing, can complete the heat treatment to fabric.
When the density difference of the density of little spacing dent and large spacing dent is 6.5-9%, striped and the projection of fabric are more obvious, have more woolen feel.
Better adopting the dent density of little spacing dent is 17-22 plumage/cm.The density of high sley warp thread is 40-80 root/CM.
Long filament simulate wool plain cloth mentality of designing of the present invention is original and different, simple in structure.The rail shape lines that its cloth cover presents and spot-like projections and depression, added certain vigor and intelligence to fabric, makes fabric have the variation characteristic that tabby characteristic presents again certain jacquard fabric, allows make widely known with honesty coexist.Being applicable to the clothes purposes such as eider down, open air, leisure, motion, is the pursuit that numerous young men particularly advocate the younger generation of fashion, and that its ready-made clothes has concurrently is functional, fashion and one, and the youth can people, original in style.
Embodiment 1
Finished product fabric width is the long filament simulate wool plain cloth of 151cm, 9 warp thread circulate as a structure, fabric knitting degree-of-difficulty factor is 0.952, warp-wise striped namely every group of corresponding fabric width of high sley warp thread is 0.04cm, and spot-like projections and the sunk part namely every group low width through the corresponding fabric of crammed yarn are 0.08cm.
Warp thread and weft yarn all adopt 40D chinlon filament, the total warp thread number of fabric is 11200, the wide 175.5cm of reed width, little spacing dent is 22 plumages/cm, large spacing dent is 20.5 plumages/cm, and the density of weft yarn is 48/cm, and between each dent, entering warp thread radical is 3/CM, on machine, the density of high sley warp thread is 66/CM, and the low density through crammed yarn is 61.5/CM.
Embodiment 2-3 parameter is shown in embodiment table, and all the other are with embodiment 1.
Embodiment 4
Fabric tightness is 0.994, and heat treated temperature is 160 ℃, and heat treatment time is 41 seconds.All the other are with embodiment 1.
Embodiment 5-9 parameter is shown in embodiment table, and all the other are with embodiment 4
Above-described is only preferred embodiment case of the present invention, and every embodiment that does not depart from technical solution of the present invention is the scope of patent protection of the present invention.
Embodiment table:
Above-described is only preferred embodiment case of the present utility model, and every case study on implementation that does not depart from technical solutions of the utility model content is the scope of patent protection of the present invention.
Claims (4)
1. the tabby weaving method of long filament simulate wool, it is characterized in that: adopt the reed of following structure to weave, on the slay of described reed, be staggeredly equipped with little spacing dent district and large spacing dent district, described dent is comprised of large spacing dent and little spacing dent, spacing between described little spacing dent equates, spacing between described large spacing dent equates, described little spacing dent is positioned at described little spacing dent district, described large spacing dent is positioned at described large spacing dent district, the warp thread adopting while weaving is 40-70D long filament, the weft yarn adopting is 40-70D long filament, the Weaving Difficulty Index of described fabric is more than or equal to 0.9 and is less than or equal to 1, described in each, between large spacing dent, equate with the warp thread quantity penetrating between little spacing dent described in each, the dent density of described large spacing dent is 17-22 plumage/cm, described fabric heat treated, heat treated temperature is lower than 10 ℃-30 ℃ of the softening points of described long filament, the time of described heat treated is 30-45 second.
2. the tabby weaving method of a kind of long filament simulate wool as claimed in claim 1, is characterized in that, described in each, the quantity of the large spacing dent in large spacing dent district equates, described in each, the quantity of the little spacing dent in little spacing dent district equates.
3. the tabby weaving method of a kind of long filament simulate wool as claimed in claim 1, is characterized in that, the quantity of the large spacing dent in the large spacing dent district described in each is unequal, and described in each, the quantity of the little spacing dent in little spacing dent district is unequal.
4. the tabby weaving method of a kind of long filament simulate wool as claimed in claim 1, is characterized in that, the density difference of the density of described little spacing dent and described large spacing dent is 6.5-9%.
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201410186757.4A CN103952834B (en) | 2011-12-31 | 2011-12-31 | A kind of plain cloth with rail shape lines |
| CN201110460445.4A CN102534964B (en) | 2011-12-31 | 2011-12-31 | Weaving method for filament wool-like plain cloth, filament wool-like plain cloth and reed |
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| CN201110460445.4A CN102534964B (en) | 2011-12-31 | 2011-12-31 | Weaving method for filament wool-like plain cloth, filament wool-like plain cloth and reed |
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| CN201410186757.4A Division CN103952834B (en) | 2011-12-31 | 2011-12-31 | A kind of plain cloth with rail shape lines |
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| CN201410186757.4A Active CN103952834B (en) | 2011-12-31 | 2011-12-31 | A kind of plain cloth with rail shape lines |
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| CN103952834A (en) | 2014-07-30 |
| CN102534964A (en) | 2012-07-04 |
| CN103952834B (en) | 2015-08-26 |
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