Background technology
Dyeing and finishing process is the operation that the textile industry power consumption is high, sewage discharge is higher, is denounced by society all the time.On the traditional understanding, for natural fabric, the acquisition of its color must obtain by dyeing and printing process again.
Traditional weaving operation is put upside down in the look spinning, painted link is mentioned before the spinning, after the process reform, can make the yarn that is formed by plurality of raw materials blending such as hair, fiber crops, hair, silk, chemical fibres, its advantage: the one, solved the poor problem of cylinder of piece dyeing finishing fully, look spins as long as color is determined, it is unlimited in batches to accomplish; The 2nd, look spins the colouring problem that has solved various different physical characteristic fabrics, and various fibers mix spinning, the effect that can produce performance complement, and look spins and has given fabric unlimited development space.
Because the look spinning is directly to the part stock-dye, the average accounting of coloured fibre is about 35%, therefore use the ratio of dyestuff and consumption of water also less, " first spin after stain " product traditional to the total environment damage ratio reduces more than 50%, meeting the requirements of the times of " low-carbon (LC) manufacturing ", is " water-saving and emission-reducing " product in the textile industry.
The prerequisite that the look spinning is produced is to obtain colored fibre.CN1073997A " hair flower loose stock dyeing method " and CN1266120A " the colored loose-stock dyeing and processing method of hair " disclose respectively a kind of production method of coloured wool fibre.Although utilize coloured wool fibre to carry out the processing of look spinning, can be than the pollution of traditional " spinning first after stain " minimizing to environment, but the technology that discloses in this patent still belongs to traditional colouring method, and bath raio 1:15 in the wool fibre refinery practice is warmed up to 100 ℃ of insulations 30 ~ 60 minutes; Bath raio 1:15 ~ 1:20 in the dyeing course is warmed up to 100 ℃ of insulations 60 minutes.Also will change water and clean up behind refinery practice and dyeing course, process 1 ton of wool fibre, the water yield that consumes in the whole process will be 50 tons ~ 100 tons, and the consumption of energy is also very large.
The look spinning belongs to trendy product, and the color of textiles is also along with the raising of consumers living and the level of consumption becomes more and more diversified.For textile enterprise, the production requirement of its product is " small lot, many kinds ".The product batch of some spinning enterprise even little of tens kilograms even several kilograms, and many kinds aspect, the variation of color is ever-changing.CNS colour system---the CNCS colour system that China Textile Information Center sets up, its CNCS fashion colour atla has just comprised 900 kinds of colors, general fabric or have the color kind of dyed yarn manufacturing enterprise all to reach thousands of kinds.
As the production line of the regenerated celulose fibre of upstream, its production line is high surpasses 100,000 ton/years production capacity, low also all at 50,000 ton/years, can not be connected between the requirement of the big scale production equipment of upstream and downstream " small lot, many kinds ".Examination is calculated with 50,000 ton/years production capacity, and production line production capacity hourly is 7000 kilograms, and look spins the batch of enterprise hair flower dyeing and only is 100 kilograms.Simultaneously, after a kind of colored fibre variety production of color finishes, change next kind, produce in the pipeline because mill base is attached to, need to know the impact of last consignment of time product, need at least one hour put glue and remove contamination.
This just means that regenerated cellulose enterprise can not connect and is less than 10 tons order, even connect order, its production cost also will be higher than conventional variety far away, and its wastage is very huge.Although this also is why domestic large-scale cellulose fibre manufacturing enterprise has developed colored fibre, can't move towards market.
The object of the invention is to solve the above-mentioned technical problem that exists in the prior art, the production method of a kind of regenerated celulose fibre and wool blended colored spun yarns is provided.
For achieving the above object, the technical solution used in the present invention is as follows:
The production method of regenerated celulose fibre of the present invention and wool blended colored spun yarns is carried out blending with in white, red, yellow, blue, purple, orange, green, the black regenerated celulose fibre more than one with hair and is obtained regenerated celulose fibre and wool blended colored spun yarns.
The mixing of regenerated celulose fibre and hair can mix when joining mao also and to mix can be at drafting the time in the inventive method, and the production stage that mixes when joining mao is as follows:
(1) joins fine color matching: according to the pattern effect of look spinning, according to color theory, according to certain ratio with more than one and wool fibre through pre-treatment in white, red, yellow, blue, purple, orange, green, the black regenerated celulose fibre, carry out preliminary mixing and shredding by joining mao equipment, make wadding of wool or directly give lower road carding equipment, wadding of wool or scopular heavily are 350 ~ 450g/m surely;
(2) combing: after joining the preliminary mixing of mao equipment, wadding of wool or scopular are quantitatively delivered to carding equipment, and the further mixing of process combing machine for fur becomes wool top with shredding, boundling, is referred to as the carded sliver, and the carded sliver heavily is 20g/5m surely;
(3) drafting: the carded sliver further carries out mixing in doubling step, and drafting can be two roads or three road draftings, improves color homogeneity and the bar evenness of wool top by drafting, and the wool top behind drafting is called ripe, and ripe fixed heavily is 20g/m;
(4) spinning: use the spinning of ring spinning machine or Revolving cup spinning equipment.
The production stage that mixes during drafting is as follows:
(1) joins fine color matching: carry out preliminary mixing and shredding to hair and with in white, red, yellow, blue, purple, orange, green, the black regenerated celulose fibre more than one by joining mao equipment respectively, make wadding of wool or directly give lower road carding equipment, wadding of wool or scopular heavily are 350 ~ 450g/m surely;
(2) combing: wadding of wool or scopular are quantitatively delivered to carding equipment, and the further mixing of process combing machine for fur becomes wool top with shredding, boundling, is referred to as the carded sliver, and the carded sliver heavily is 20g/5m surely;
(3) drafting: according to the pattern effect of look spinning, according to color theory, according to the monochromatic regenerated celulose fibre carded sliver of certain ratio and the wool fibre carded sliver, carry out pre-and after carry out redoubling, obtain ripe uniformly of blend of colors, ripe fixed heavily is 20g/m;
(4) spinning: use the spinning of ring spinning machine or Revolving cup spinning equipment.
One of raw material of formation blended yarn of the present invention, the color of colored regenerated cellulose fiber are red, yellow, blue, black, orange, green, purple.
Test condition: with fiber combing bunchy, be made into thickness and be the fiber plane tinctorial pattern about 1mm, carry out colour examining with Datacolor SF 600X Computer color testing instrument, adopt standard D65 light source, 10 degree visual fields, absorption reflectivity data and the chromaticity coordinates data of measurement 360nm to 750nm wave band.
The dominant wavelength of red regenerated celulose fibre is 610nm-660nm, 630nm-650nm particularly, and its spectral reflectance curve is as shown in Figure 1.Its excitation purity is 0.35-0.85, particularly 0.55-0.65.
The dominant wavelength of yellow regenerated celulose fibre is 570nm-590nm, 575nm-585nm particularly, and its spectral reflectance curve is as shown in Figure 2.Its excitation purity is 0.35-0.85, particularly 0.55-0.65.
The dominant wavelength of blue regenerated celulose fibre is 460nm-490nm, 470nm-480nm particularly, and its spectral reflectance curve is as shown in Figure 3.Its excitation purity is 0.35-0.85, particularly 0.55-0.65.
The dominant wavelength of orange regenerated celulose fibre is 590nm-610nm, 595nm-605nm particularly, and its spectral reflectance curve is as shown in Figure 4.Its excitation purity is 0.35-0.85, particularly 0.55-0.65.
The dominant wavelength of green regenerating cellulose fibre is 500nm-530nm, 510nm-520nm particularly, and its spectral reflectance curve is as shown in Figure 5.Its excitation purity is 0.35-0.85, particularly 0.55-0.65.
The dominant wavelength of purple regenerated celulose fibre is-560nm ~-530nm, particularly-560nm ~-550nm, its spectral reflectance curve is as shown in Figure 6.Its excitation purity is 0.35-0.85, particularly 0.55-0.65.
The spectral reflectance curve of black regenerated celulose fibre as shown in Figure 7, surperficial color depth K/S value is 20-30, particularly 24-28.
The hair of one of blended yarn raw material of the present invention, for through scouring of wool, singe, true qualities hair after the pre-treatment such as bleaching.
When using the ring spinning machine spinning, use the ring spinning machine spinning, ripe is carried out rove to Speed frames, and rove heavily is 5g/10m surely, and rove carries out spun yarn again to fine spining machine.Spun-yarn fineness can be 5tex ~ 8tex, is called Superfine Yarn, 8tex ~ 16tex, thin yarn; 16tex ~ 32tex medium size yarn, 32tex ~ 60tex, the thick yarn, more than the 60tex, the extraordinarily thick yarn.The metric system twist factor can require to be defined as 360 ~ 440 according to producer.
When using the spinning of Revolving cup spinning equipment, ripe directly enters rotor spinning machine and spins, and the fineness of yarn can be 16tex ~ 32tex medium size yarn, 32tex ~ 60tex, and the thick yarn, more than the 60tex, the extraordinarily thick yarn.Twist factor is decided to be 360 ~ 440.
The look spinning of colored regenerated cellulose fiber of the present invention and wool blend, utilizing seven kinds of colored regenerated cellulose fibers is coloured raw material, composite by these colored regenerated cellulose fibers and true qualities hair, obtain Protean color kind, can satisfy the consumer to the demand of hair matter product, can not produce owing to the dyeing of hair again the impact on environment simultaneously.Simultaneously, can solve the requirement of upstream fiber enterprise " in enormous quantities, production is stablized ", satisfy simultaneously the requirement of look spinning " small lot, many kinds, color-variable ".
The present invention compared with prior art has following features:
(1) directly utilizes the colored fibre cellulose fiber, do not increase the consumption of water and the energy, do not increase the discharging of sewage, solve the problem that wool fibre dyeing brings fully; Compare with dyed yarn, 50 tons of the use that reduces water per ton and sewage discharges reduce by 5 tons of steam consumptions, power saving 1000 degree.
The colored fibre cellulose fiber of (2) seven kinds of basic colors can be produced in the procedure of fibre production business stability, and solving the frequent color is destabilizing factor and the waste that regenerated celulose fibre manufacturing enterprise brings, and reduces production costs.
Institute's Dry Sack spinning fashion, environmental protection, health after the regenerated celulose fibre of (3) seven kinds of basic colors mixes.
(4) this blended yarn can be produced at existing wool spinning equipment, need not to carry out new equipment and buys or transform.
Fig. 1 is the used red fiber spectral reflectance curve of the present invention.
Fig. 2 is the used yellow fibers spectral reflectance curve of the present invention.
Fig. 3 is the used blue fiber spectral reflectance curve of the present invention.
Fig. 4 is the used orange fiber spectral reflectance curve of the present invention.
Fig. 5 is the used green fiber spectral reflectance curve of the present invention.
Fig. 6 is the used purple fiber spectral reflectance curve of the present invention.
Fig. 7 is the used black fiber spectral reflectance curve of the present invention.
The specific embodiment
The present invention is described in more detail below in conjunction with embodiment, but the invention is not restricted to these embodiment.
Embodiment 1
According to redness: yellow: the ratio of true qualities hair: black=1:1:7.8:0.2 is joined fine color matching, utilizes and joins hair and surely reset standby quantitatively feeding A104 type cover-plate type combing machine for fur; Behind combing machine for fur combing, the boundling, become and have certain degree of mixing wool top, fixed heavily is 20g/5m.Drafting is selected two road draftings, ripe surely heavy 20g/5m.Ripe obtains rove through 8 times of drawing-offs on Speed frames, fixed heavily is 5g/10m.Through 27 times of drawing-offs, obtain fineness is that 18.5tex(32 English props up to rove on fine spining machine) spun yarn.
Embodiment 2
According to redness: blueness: the ratio of true qualities hair: black=1:1:7:1 is joined fine color matching, utilizes and joins hair and surely reset standby quantitatively feeding A104 type cover-plate type combing machine for fur; Behind combing machine for fur combing, the boundling, become and have certain degree of mixing wool top, fixed heavily is 20g/5m.Drafting is selected two road draftings, ripe surely heavy 20g/5m.Ripe obtains fineness at rotor spinning machine is that 50tex(13 English props up) spun yarn.
Embodiment 3
According to yellow: blueness: the ratio of true qualities hair: black=3:2:4:1 is joined fine color matching, utilizes and joins hair and surely reset standby quantitatively feeding A104 type cover-plate type combing machine for fur; Behind combing machine for fur combing, the boundling, become and have certain degree of mixing wool top, fixed heavily is 20g/5m.Drafting is selected two road draftings, ripe surely heavy 20g/5m.Ripe obtains fineness at rotor spinning machine is that 50tex(13 English props up) spun yarn.
Embodiment 4
Utilization is joined mao equipment respectively with yellow, blueness, black regenerated celulose fibre, true qualities wool fibre feeding A104 type cover-plate type combing machine for fur; Behind combing, boundling, obtain respectively yellow, blueness, the black regenerated celulose fibre carded sliver and the true qualities wool fibre carded sliver, fixed heavily is 20g/5m.According to yellow: blueness: black: the ratio of true qualities hair=2:4:1:1 is joined the bar color matching, and drafting is selected four road draftings, ripe surely heavy 20g/5m.Ripe obtains fineness at rotor spinning machine is that 50tex(13 English props up) spun yarn.
Embodiment 5
Utilization is joined mao equipment respectively with redness, yellow, black regenerated celulose fibre, true qualities wool fibre feeding A104 type cover-plate type combing machine for fur; Behind combing, boundling, obtain respectively yellow, blueness, the black regenerated cellulose carded sliver and the true qualities hair carded sliver, fixed heavily is 20g/5m.According to redness: yellow: black: the ratio of true qualities hair=3:3:0.2:1.8 is joined the bar color matching, and drafting is selected four road draftings, ripe surely heavy 20g/5m.Ripe obtains rove through 8 times of drawing-offs on Speed frames, fixed heavily is 5g/10m.Through 27 times of drawing-offs, obtain fineness is that 18.5tex(32 English props up to rove on fine spining machine) spun yarn.
The production method of the colored fibre cellulose fiber that the present invention is used, the shaping of front preparation, (3) fiber and the post-processing step of (4) fiber are spun in the preparation, (2) that comprise (1) spinning solution, wherein, in step (2), add mill base, described mill base is aqueous color paste, and the coloured solid matter content in the mill base is 10% ~ 60%; The addition of mill base accounts for alpha-cellulose quality in the spinning solution in coloured solid matter, is 0.5% ~ 4%; The amount of pulse pump supply mill base is 10ml/min ~ 100ml/min, and the ability of the processing spinning solution of static mixer is 1.2L/min ~ 12L/min.
The mill base that wherein prepares red regenerated cellulose, coloured solid matter content is 10% ~ 60% in the mill base, the numerical value of tinting strength, tinting power is 10g-100g, the number range of pigment fineness is 0.05 μ m-2 μ m in the mill base, maximum absorption wavelength is 490nm-570nm, maximum is 650nm-700nm through wavelength, and the addition of mill base accounts for the mass percent of alpha-cellulose in the spinning solution in coloured solid matter, be 1% ~ 2%.
The mill base that wherein prepares yellow regenerated cellulose, coloured solid matter content is 10% ~ 60% in the mill base, the numerical value of tinting strength, tinting power is 10g-100g, the number range of pigment fineness is 0.05 μ m-2 μ m in the mill base, maximum absorption wavelength is 420nm-480nm, maximum is 580nm-700nm through wavelength, and the addition of mill base accounts for the quality percentage of alpha-cellulose in the spinning solution in coloured solid matter, be 1% ~ 2%.
The mill base that wherein prepares blue regenerated cellulose, coloured solid matter content is 10% ~ 60% in the mill base, the numerical value of tinting strength, tinting power is 10g-100g, the number range of pigment fineness is 0.05 μ m-2 μ m in the mill base, maximum absorption wavelength is 580nm-610nm, maximum is 435nm-500nm through wavelength, and the addition of mill base accounts for the mass percent of alpha-cellulose in the spinning solution in coloured solid matter, be 1% ~ 2%.
The mill base that wherein prepares orange regenerated cellulose, coloured solid matter content is 10% ~ 60% in the mill base, the numerical value of tinting strength, tinting power is 10g-100g, the number range 0.05 μ m-2 μ m of pigment fineness in the mill base, maximum absorption wavelength is 480nm-550nm, maximum is 595nm-700nm through wavelength, and the addition of mill base accounts for the mass percent of alpha-cellulose in the spinning solution in coloured solid matter, be 1% ~ 2%.
Wherein prepare the cellulosic mill base of green regenerating, coloured solid matter content is 10% ~ 60% in the mill base, the numerical value of tinting strength, tinting power is 10g-100g, the number range of pigment fineness is 0.05 μ m-2 μ m in the mill base, maximum absorption wavelength is 620nm-650nm, maximum is 500nm-550nm through wavelength, and the addition of mill base accounts for the mass percent of alpha-cellulose in the spinning solution in coloured solid matter, be 1% ~ 2%.
The mill base that wherein prepares the purple regenerated cellulose, coloured solid matter content is 10% ~ 60% in the mill base, the numerical value of tinting strength, tinting power is 10g-100g, the number range of pigment fineness is 0.05 μ m-2 μ m in the mill base, maximum absorption wavelength is 530nm-580nm, and maximum is 670nm-700nm through wavelength, and it is 400nm-460nm that inferior maximum sees through wavelength, the addition of mill base accounts for the mass percent of alpha-cellulose in the spinning solution in coloured solid matter, be 1% ~ 2%.
The mill base that wherein prepares the black regenerated cellulose, coloured solid matter content is 10% ~ 60% in the mill base, the numerical value of tinting strength, tinting power is 10g-100g, the number range of pigment fineness is 0.05 μ m-2 μ m in the mill base, be lower than 10% at 400nm-700nm wave band reflectivity, the addition of mill base accounts for the mass percent of alpha-cellulose in the spinning solution in coloured solid matter, be 1% ~ 2%.
In the forming step of fiber, spinning speed is 60 ~ 100m/min; H in the spinning coagulation bath
2SO
4Concentration is 90 ~ 120g/L, Na
2SO
4Concentration is 290 ~ 310g/L, ZnSO
4Concentration is 13 ~ 15g/L; Plasticizing-bath contains H
2SO
4Concentration is 8 ~ 12g/L, Na
2SO
4Concentration is 20 ~ 30g/L, ZnSO
4Concentration is generally 1 ~ 2g/L; Coagulation bath temperature is 45 ~ 50 ℃; The temperature of plasticizing-bath is 95 ~ 98 ℃.
The drawing-off of strand is divided into spinneret draft, and spinning disc stretches, plasticization drawing.Spinneret draft adopts-10% ~ 20%, and spinning disc stretches 15% ~ 30%, and plasticization drawing adopts 10% ~ 20%.