CN101884603B - Composition for skins and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Composition for skins and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN101884603B CN101884603B CN201010180480.6A CN201010180480A CN101884603B CN 101884603 B CN101884603 B CN 101884603B CN 201010180480 A CN201010180480 A CN 201010180480A CN 101884603 B CN101884603 B CN 101884603B
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- water
- oil phase
- skin composition
- macromolecular compound
- ceramide
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Fee Related
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 82
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title abstract description 6
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 63
- 229940106189 ceramide Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 52
- 229920002521 macromolecule Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 51
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 20
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- -1 polyoxyethylene Polymers 0.000 claims description 53
- YDNKGFDKKRUKPY-JHOUSYSJSA-N C16 ceramide Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)N[C@@H](CO)[C@H](O)C=CCCCCCCCCCCCCC YDNKGFDKKRUKPY-JHOUSYSJSA-N 0.000 claims description 50
- CRJGESKKUOMBCT-VQTJNVASSA-N N-acetylsphinganine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[C@@H](O)[C@H](CO)NC(C)=O CRJGESKKUOMBCT-VQTJNVASSA-N 0.000 claims description 50
- ZVEQCJWYRWKARO-UHFFFAOYSA-N ceramide Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)C(=O)NC(CO)C(O)C=CCCC=C(C)CCCCCCCCC ZVEQCJWYRWKARO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 50
- VVGIYYKRAMHVLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N newbouldiamide Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)C(O)C(O)C(CO)NC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC VVGIYYKRAMHVLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 50
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 31
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 claims description 22
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- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims description 7
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- UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L zinc;1-(5-cyanopyridin-2-yl)-3-[(1s,2s)-2-(6-fluoro-2-hydroxy-3-propanoylphenyl)cyclopropyl]urea;diacetate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CC([O-])=O.CC([O-])=O.CCC(=O)C1=CC=C(F)C([C@H]2[C@H](C2)NC(=O)NC=2N=CC(=CC=2)C#N)=C1O UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L 0.000 claims description 5
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- LNAZSHAWQACDHT-XIYTZBAFSA-N (2r,3r,4s,5r,6s)-4,5-dimethoxy-2-(methoxymethyl)-3-[(2s,3r,4s,5r,6r)-3,4,5-trimethoxy-6-(methoxymethyl)oxan-2-yl]oxy-6-[(2r,3r,4s,5r,6r)-4,5,6-trimethoxy-2-(methoxymethyl)oxan-3-yl]oxyoxane Chemical compound CO[C@@H]1[C@@H](OC)[C@H](OC)[C@@H](COC)O[C@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](OC)[C@@H](OC)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](OC)[C@H](OC)O[C@@H]2COC)OC)O[C@@H]1COC LNAZSHAWQACDHT-XIYTZBAFSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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- DPXJVFZANSGRMM-UHFFFAOYSA-N acetic acid;2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyhexanal;sodium Chemical compound [Na].CC(O)=O.OCC(O)C(O)C(O)C(O)C=O DPXJVFZANSGRMM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000001768 carboxy methyl cellulose Substances 0.000 claims description 2
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- 239000005018 casein Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- BECPQYXYKAMYBN-UHFFFAOYSA-N casein, tech. Chemical compound NCCCCC(C(O)=O)N=C(O)C(CC(O)=O)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=N)N=C(O)C(CC(C)C)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=O)N=C(O)C(CC(O)=O)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=O)N=C(O)C(C(C)O)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=N)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=N)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=N)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=O)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=O)N=C(O)C(COP(O)(O)=O)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=N)N=C(O)C(N)CC1=CC=CC=C1 BECPQYXYKAMYBN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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- HQPMKSGTIOYHJT-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethane-1,2-diol;propane-1,2-diol Chemical group OCCO.CC(O)CO HQPMKSGTIOYHJT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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- 235000011852 gelatine desserts Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000004676 glycans Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000665 guar gum Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000010417 guar gum Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 229960002154 guar gum Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000001341 hydroxy propyl starch Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000013828 hydroxypropyl starch Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- TWNIBLMWSKIRAT-VFUOTHLCSA-N levoglucosan Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]2CO[C@@H]1O2 TWNIBLMWSKIRAT-VFUOTHLCSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920000609 methyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000001923 methylcellulose Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000001814 pectin Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000010987 pectin Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920001277 pectin Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920001993 poloxamer 188 Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920001495 poly(sodium acrylate) polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
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- 235000019812 sodium carboxymethyl cellulose Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
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- NNMHYFLPFNGQFZ-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium polyacrylate Chemical compound [Na+].[O-]C(=O)C=C NNMHYFLPFNGQFZ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052938 sodium sulfate Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
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- 239000008107 starch Substances 0.000 claims description 2
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- 235000010487 tragacanth Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000196 tragacanth Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940116362 tragacanth Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000008346 aqueous phase Substances 0.000 abstract 9
- 239000012071 phase Substances 0.000 abstract 4
- 150000001783 ceramides Chemical class 0.000 abstract 1
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 abstract 1
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- HVUMOYIDDBPOLL-XWVZOOPGSA-N Sorbitan monostearate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O HVUMOYIDDBPOLL-XWVZOOPGSA-N 0.000 description 6
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- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N ether Substances CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000008020 evaporation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000001704 evaporation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000001815 facial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000012530 fluid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000005456 glyceride group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000008187 granular material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000017 hydrogel Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000005113 hydroxyalkoxy group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 238000009434 installation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000002960 margaryl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 125000001570 methylene group Chemical group [H]C([H])([*:1])[*:2] 0.000 description 1
- 244000005700 microbiome Species 0.000 description 1
- JXTPJDDICSTXJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-Triacontane Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC JXTPJDDICSTXJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-heptadecyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000002465 nonacosyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- FBUKVWPVBMHYJY-UHFFFAOYSA-M nonanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCC([O-])=O FBUKVWPVBMHYJY-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC(C)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004006 olive oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000008390 olive oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000003647 oxidation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000007254 oxidation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- AERBNCYCJBRYDG-KSZLIROESA-N phytosphingosine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](N)CO AERBNCYCJBRYDG-KSZLIROESA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940033329 phytosphingosine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000419 plant extract Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000002706 plastid Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 229920000058 polyacrylate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- QQONPFPTGQHPMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N propylene Natural products CC=C QQONPFPTGQHPMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000004805 propylene group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([*:1])C([H])([H])[*:2] 0.000 description 1
- 125000001453 quaternary ammonium group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 150000003335 secondary amines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000012424 soybean oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003549 soybean oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 241000894007 species Species 0.000 description 1
- KWDXKYNWAKMLKK-YQDZIVAPSA-N sphinga-4E,14Z-dienine Chemical compound CCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC\C=C\[C@@H](O)[C@@H](N)CO KWDXKYNWAKMLKK-YQDZIVAPSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OTKJDMGTUTTYMP-ZWKOTPCHSA-N sphinganine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[C@@H](O)[C@@H](N)CO OTKJDMGTUTTYMP-ZWKOTPCHSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WWUZIQQURGPMPG-KRWOKUGFSA-N sphingosine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCC\C=C\[C@@H](O)[C@@H](N)CO WWUZIQQURGPMPG-KRWOKUGFSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940032094 squalane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000003381 stabilizer Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003871 sulfonates Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000003512 tertiary amines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000000699 topical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 125000002469 tricosyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 229940099259 vaseline Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008158 vegetable oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000000391 vinyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])=C([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 229920002554 vinyl polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940088594 vitamin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229930003231 vitamin Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 235000013343 vitamin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000019155 vitamin A Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011719 vitamin A Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940045997 vitamin a Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000003722 vitamin derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000004711 α-olefin Substances 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention relates to a composition for skins, comprising aqueous phase and oily particles dispersed in the aqueous phase, and the viscosity of the aqueous phase is 1000-100000mPa.s under room temperature. The oily particles have average size of 0.1-2mm and account for 0.5-15% by mass of the composition, and the oily particles contain ceramides which account for 15-60% by mass of the oily particles. The aqueous phase contains macromolecules which account for 0.1-1.0% by mass of the aqueous phase. The invention also relates to a preparation method of the composition for skins, which is characterized by adding fused oil phase to the aqueous phase heated to the specified temperature from the part above the aqueous phase, or adding the aqueous phase heated to the specified temperature to the fused oil phase from the part above the oil phase, and later cooling the mixture of the aqueous phase and the oil phase to the room temperature while stirring, thus obtaining the oily particles.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to skin composition and manufacture method thereof, particularly comprise water and skin composition and the manufacture method thereof of the oily particle that disperses in water.
Background technology
The outermost layer horny layer of skin plays the evaporation that suppresses to invade foreign body from outside, prevent skin internal moisture, keeps self moisture, keeps the flexibility of skin and the function of slickness.Between the cuticular horn cell of formation, have the lipid that is called " lipid between horn cell ", this lipid exists in the mode in the gap between stuffing horn cell plastid.
Between this horn cell in the lipid of lipid composition approximately 50% is ceramide, and other components are cholesterol, cholesteryl ester, fatty acid ester etc.In addition, known in the time that lipid between horn cell reduces, particularly in the time that ceramide reduces, can cause the coarse, dry, aging etc. of skin.Therefore, by play the ceramide that improves horny layer function from external complement, can improve horny layer state, make it play good function.
But the crystallinity of ceramide is higher and fusing point is also higher, is therefore difficult to make it to be present in preparation with stable state.Therefore, in the time that ceramide is coupled in skin preparations for extenal use, inevitably also will be used in conjunction with various surfactants and a large amount of oil preparation etc., thereby will cause the reduction of use sense, and the shape of preparation also can be restricted.In addition, also exist with respect to ceramide and need to use a large amount of emulsifying agents, the sticky slimy problem of use sense performance.
Further, the emulsion that contains ceramide in prior art is white emulsion, white facial cream mostly, and as broad as long in appearance with the product that does not contain ceramide, consumer is from the appearance less than difference.
Existing document provides and contained oil content and other functional components, the oily particle that can contain, microcapsule, granule, oil-in-water type compositions etc. in the skin composition such as cosmetics.
For example, in patent documentation 1 (Chinese publication number: CN1980634A), a kind of topical composition that contains oily particle is disclosed, it is that the oily particle of liquid oil content disperses and forms in water, and wherein the mean diameter of oily particle is 0.05～10mm.
In addition, in patent documentation 2 (Chinese publication number: CN1738724A), a kind of oil-in-water skin compositions is disclosed, in its oily particle, containing under the fatty acid ester of vitamin A and room temperature is liquid oil content, the amphiphilic species that fusing point is 45～75 ℃ etc., and wherein the mean diameter of oily particle is 10～1000 μ m.
But the microcapsule in above-mentioned patent documentation 1 and 2 is not containing ceramide, all without skin effect.And the macromolecule being added in patent documentation 1 and 2 tends to bring the problem in use sense.In addition, in the time manufacturing the skin composition of these oiliness particles, often there is manufacturing process's complexity, high in cost of production problem in prior art.
The manufacture method of the hydrogel that contains ceramide is disclosed in patent documentation 3 (Japanese patent application: JP 2002-20227) in addition.But wherein the manufacture method of particle is very numerous and diverse, and manufacturing process needs special installation, has manufacturing process's complexity, high in cost of production problem.
Summary of the invention
The problem that the present invention will solve is, provides the content that contains excellent in stability, use sense excellence, surfactant low and containing the skin composition of the oily particle of ceramide type by easy manufacturing process.Oily particle containing ceramide type of the present invention has can be with the size being observed visually.
The present inventors conduct in-depth research in order to solve this problem, found that, by the oily particle containing ceramide type that meets specified conditions is disperseed in water, can solve above-mentioned problem, thereby complete the present invention.
, the invention provides a kind of skin composition, it is characterized in that: the oily particle that comprises water and disperse in described water, and viscosity is at room temperature 1000～100000mPas, wherein, the mean diameter of described oily particle is 100 μ m～2mm, and the content in described skin composition is 0.5～15 quality %, and, described oily particle contains ceramide type, the content of described ceramide type in described oily particle is 15～60 quality %, described water contains macromolecule, the content of described macromolecule in described water is 0.1～1.0 quality %.
And in skin composition of the present invention, the content of described ceramide type in described oily particle is preferably 20～60 quality %, more preferably 30～60 quality %.
The present composition can also contain the surfactant of 0.001～0.5 quality %.Preferably non-ionic surface active agent of the surfactant using in the present invention.
In addition, the macromolecule containing in water is preferably selected from more than one the acrylic acid series macromolecular compound in CVP Carbopol ETD2050, acrylic acid-methacrylic acid alkyl copolymer.
Further, preferably ceramide type is to be selected from the natural ceramide of I type～VI type and to comprise more than one the material in the synthetic ceramide of N-(2-hydroxyl-3-hexadecane oxygen propyl group)-N-2-ethoxy palmitamide, N-(2-hydroxyl-3-hexadecane oxygen propyl group)-N-2-ethoxy decyl amide.
The manufacture method of the skin composition the present invention relates to, it is characterized in that: from be heated to set point of temperature water top, add the oil phase having melted to this water, or, from the oil phase top having melted, the water that is heated to set point of temperature to this oil phase, afterwards, the mixture of water and oil phase is cooled to room temperature while stirring, thereby obtains oily particle.In the manufacture method of skin composition of the present invention, preferably the viscosity of the above-mentioned water that is heated to set point of temperature is 1000～20000mPas, more preferably 1000～8000mPas, and, this set point of temperature is 50 ℃～90 ℃, preferably 60～90 ℃, and more preferably 70～90 ℃.Manufacture method operation of the present invention is easy, can save manufacturing cost and improve and manufacture efficiency.
The specific embodiment
In skin composition of the present invention, in oily particle, the content of ceramide type is (by quality ratio calculate) 15～60%, preferably 20～60%, more preferably 30～60%.When the content of ceramide type is during lower than lower limit 15%, can not bring into play well effect, for example skin protection moistening effect of ceramide, and, be also difficult to obtain the oily particle that can observe with naked eyes, oily particle softness, therefore not preferred; And when the content of ceramide type is during higher than higher limit 60%, oily particle hardens, therefore not preferred.
Ceramide type is more than one the material being selected from natural ceramide and synthetic ceramide.
Wherein, the structural formula of natural ceramide is as shown in following general formula (1).
In general formula (1), R
1saturated or the undersaturated alkyl of straight chain, side chain or ring-type that the carbon number that represents available hydroxyl replacement is 7～19; Z represents methylene, methine; X
1, X
2and X
3represent individually respectively hydrogen atom, hydroxyl or acetoxyl group, X
4represent hydrogen atom, or form oxo base with together with the oxygen atom of adjacency, and in the time that Z is methine, X
1and X
2in any is hydrogen atom and another does not exist, work as X
4while forming oxo base, X
3do not exist; R
2represent methylol or acetyl-o-methyl; R
3represent the alkyl that hydrogen atom or carbon number are 1～4; R
4represent the saturated or undersaturated alkyl of straight chain, side chain or ring-type that carbon number that available hydroxyl replaces is 5～30, or be combined with the group of the saturated or unsaturated fatty acid of straight chain as 8～22 of carbon number that available hydroxyl replaces, side chain at the ω of this alkyl end take ester bond; Dotted line represents can be unsaturated bond.
In general formula (1), preferably R
1for the carbon number straight chained alkyl that is 7～19, the straight chained alkyl that more preferably carbon number is 13～15; R
4the straight chained alkyl that the carbon number replacing for available hydroxyl is 9～27, or be combined with the straight chained alkyl of linoleic carbon number as 9～27 take ester bond.In addition, preferred X
4for hydrogen atom, or preferably form oxo base together with oxygen atom.Particularly preferably R
4for tricosyl, 1-hydroxyl pentadecyl, 1-hydroxyl tricosyl, heptadecyl, 1-hydroxyl undecyl, be combined with linoleic nonacosyl in ω position with ester bond.
The concrete example of natural ceramide can be enumerated Cer EOS～7 type that sphingosine, dihydrosphingosine, phytosphingosine or sphingadienine are amidated.And, also comprise these N-alkylation body (for example, N-methyl body).
As the commercially available product of natural ceramide, can enumerate Ceramide I, Ceramide III, Ceramide III A, Ceramide III B, Ceramide IIIC, Ceramide VI that Goldschmidt company manufactures; The Ceramide TIC-001 that Takasago spices Industry Co manufactures; The Ceramide II that Quest International company manufactures; DS-Ceramide VI, DS-CLA-Phytocerami de, C6-Phytoceramide, DS-ceramide Y3S that DOOSAN company manufactures; The Ceramide II that Sederma company manufactures.
Synthetic ceramide is as shown in following general formula (2).
In general formula (2), R
5saturated or the undersaturated alkyl of straight chain, side chain or ring-type that the carbon number that represents available hydroxyl replacement is 10～22; X
4represent hydrogen atom, acetyl group or glyceryl; R
6represent the saturated or undersaturated alkyl of straight chain, side chain or ring-type that available hydroxyl or the amino carbon number replacing are 5～22, or be combined with the group of the saturated or unsaturated fatty acid of straight chain as 8～22 of carbon number that available hydroxyl replaces, side chain at the ω of this alkyl end take ester bond; R
7represent hydrogen atom, or the total carbon atom number that replaces of available hydroxy alkoxy base, alkoxyl or the acetoxyl group alkyl that is 1～8.R
6preferably represent nonyl, tridecyl, pentadecyl, be combined with linoleic undecyl, be combined with linoleic pentadecyl, be combined with the pentadecyl of 12-hydroxy stearic acid, be combined with the undecyl of methyl-branched isostearic acid in ω position with amido link with ester bond in ω position with ester bond in ω position with ester bond in ω position.As R
7hydroxy alkoxy base or alkoxyl, preferably carbon number is 1～8.
As the synthetic ceramide representing with general formula (2), preferably: R
5represent cetyl, X
4represent hydrogen atom, R
6represent pentadecyl, R
7represent the synthetic ceramide ((N-hexadecane oxygen base hydroxypropyl)-N-hydroxyl palmitamide) of ethoxy; R
5represent cetyl, X
4represent hydrogen atom, R
6represent nonyl, R
7represent the synthetic ceramide ((N-hexadecane oxygen base hydroxypropyl)-N-hydroxyl decyl amide) of ethoxy; R
5represent cetyl, X
4represent glyceryl, R
6represent tridecyl, R
7represent the synthetic ceramide (N-[2-(2,3-dihydroxypropyl oxygen)-3-cetyl oxygen propyl group]-N-3-methoxy-propyl myristamide) of 3-methoxy-propyl.Wherein, the R of general formula (2) particularly preferably
5represent cetyl, X
4represent hydrogen atom, R
6represent pentadecyl, R
7represent the synthetic ceramide ((N-hexadecane oxygen base hydroxypropyl)-N-hydroxyl palmitamide) of ethoxy.
The further natural ceramide of the I type～VI type in natural ceramide shown in preferred above-mentioned general formula (1), and the synthetic ceramide type of N-(2-hydroxyl-3-hexadecane oxygen propyl group)-N-2-ethoxy palmitamide, N-(2-hydroxyl-3-hexadecane oxygen propyl group)-N-2-ethoxy decyl amide etc. in synthetic ceramide shown in above-mentioned general formula (2).Wherein, preferred N-(2-hydroxyl-3-hexadecane oxygen propyl group)-N-2-ethoxy palmitamide.
From having good use sense and can considering with the angle that is observed visually oily particle, the mean diameter of the oily particle of skin composition of the present invention is 0.1～2mm, is preferably 0.1～1mm.
In oily particle of the present invention, also can contain fusing point and be the amphipathic solid oil of 40～90 ℃.As so amphipathic solid oil composition, for example can enumerate higher alcohol, higher fatty acids, fatty glyceride.Higher alcohol can exemplify hexadecanol, stearyl alcohol etc., and higher fatty acids can exemplify tetradecanoic acid, Palmic acid, stearic acid etc.Wherein, preferred hexadecanol, Palmic acid.
The content of amphipathic solid oil in oily particle, can freely select as required, but is preferably 0～50 quality % with respect to the gross mass of oily particle, and more preferably 0～30 quality %, is particularly preferably 0～10 quality %.
In addition, in oily particle, except mentioned component, can also contain the liquid state conventionally using, solid-state, semi-solid synthetic and natural oiliness composition in cosmetics, for example: the hydrocarbon ils of liquid paraffinic hydrocarbon, squalane (Parleam), vaseline etc.; The ester oil of the different pelargonate of different tridecanol, NPDC, single isostearic acid list myristin, cholesterol isostearate etc.; The vegetable oil of olive oil, soybean oil, Helianthi wet goods; The animal oil of Cera Flava, lanoline etc.; The polysiloxane oil of the polymethyl siloxane of volatility and fixedness, ring type polymethyl siloxane, modified polyorganosiloxane etc.; PFPE etc. fluoridize wet goods.
In water of the present invention and oil phase, can in the scope of not damaging effect of the present invention, coordinate the surfactant of appropriate amount, for example non-ionic surface active agent, anion surfactant, amphoteric surfactant, cationic surfactant.
As above-mentioned non-ionic surface active agent, for example can enumerate: polyoxyethylene alkyl ether class, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated Oleum Ricini class, polyoxyethylene sorbitan aliphatic ester class, sorbitan aliphatic ester class, cithrol, Polyoxyethylene Sorbitol Fatty Acid Esters, polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, alkyl glycerol ethers, glycerine fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene cholesterol ethers, alkyl polyglucoside class, sucrose-fatty esters, oxidation amine.Wherein, preferred sorbitan stearate (sorbitan stearate)
As anion surfactant, for example can enumerate: alkylsurfuric acid salt, alkylamide ether sulfate class, alpha-olefin sulphonic acids, alkylamide Sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates class, alkyl sulfocarboxylic Barbiturates, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl phosphoric acid salt, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether sulfate salt class, acyl glutamic acid salt, acyl sarcosinates, acyl taurine salt class etc.
As amphoteric surfactant, for example can enumerate: alkyl acetic acid betaines, alkyl imidazoline betaines, alkyl amido betaine class, alkyl sulfo betaines class etc.
As cationic surfactant, for example can enumerate: the salt of the aliphatic primary amine that reacts with polyoxyalkylene, secondary amine, tertiary amine, quaternary ammonium.
In the present composition, the content of surfactant is 0.001～0.5 quality %, preferably 0.001～0.3 quality %, more preferably 0.1～0.2 quality %.If the content of the surfactant in oil phase or water is too much, the particle diameter of oily particle will reduce, thereby can not obtain the oily particle that naked eyes can be observed.Preferably non-ionic surface active agent of the surfactant using in the present invention.
The macromolecule containing in water as skin composition of the present invention, for example can enumerate: department of botany's macromolecular compound, department of microbiology macromolecular compound, animal are more than one the macromolecular compound in macromolecular compound, modified starch, modified cellulose, acrylic polymer compound, polyoxyethylene macromolecular compound, Pluronic F68 family macromolecule compound, acryloyl family macromolecule compound, cation property copolymer.
Above-mentioned department of botany macromolecular compound is more than one the macromolecular compound being selected from arabic gum, Tragacanth, galactan, carob, guar gum, karaya, carrageenan, pectin, Qiong Zhi, Fructus cydoniae oblongae seed.
Mentioned microorganism is that macromolecular compound is more than one the macromolecular compound being selected from glucosan, pulullan polysaccharide.
Above-mentioned animal is that macromolecular compound is more than one the macromolecular compound being selected from collagen protein, casein, albumin, gelatin.
Above-mentioned modified starch is more than one the material being selected from carboxymethyl starch, methyl hydroxypropyl starch.
Above-mentioned modified cellulose is more than one the material being selected from methylcellulose, ethyl cellulose, methyl hydroxy propyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl-cellulose, cellulose sodium sulfate, hydroxypropyl cellulose, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose.
Aforesaid propylene acids macromolecular compound is more than one the macromolecular compound being selected from vinyl macromolecule, CVP Carbopol ETD2050, acrylic acid-methacrylic acid alkyl copolymer.Wherein, preferred carbomer and Pemulen.
Aforesaid propylene acyl family macromolecule compound is more than one macromolecular compounds that are selected from sodium polyacrylate, polyethyl acrylate, polyacrylamide.
And the viscosity of the water in present composition when water and oil phase mix at 50～90 ℃ is 1000～20000mPas, is preferably 1000～8000mPas.The final compositions forming viscosity is at room temperature 1000～100000mPas, preferably 1000～90000mPas.If the viscosity of water is lower than 1000mPas in the time mixing water and oil phase, oil phase floats over water top, is difficult to manufacture uniform oily particle.In addition, if the viscosity of water is higher than 20000mPas in the time mixing water and oil phase, the oily particle that generated is too small, can not produce the oily particle of the size that naked eyes can observe.
In addition, if finally the compositions of formation viscosity is at room temperature lower than 1000mPas, oily particle easily floats, and causes compositions unstable.And if the final compositions forming viscosity is at room temperature higher than 100000mPas, oily particle poor stability.
In the present invention, viscosity is to measure and the value that obtains with rotary viscosimeter (Brookfield viscometer or B8R type viscometer).
In addition, in the present composition, not damaging in the limit of desired effects of the present invention, and according to the concrete desired effect reaching, can suitably contain other compositions that conventionally contain in the composition for external application such as cosmetics, for example, fluid oil, vitamin, plant extract, emulsifying agent, gel, stabilizing agent, antiseptic, spice, antioxidant, pH adjusting agent etc.
Skin composition of the present invention can be manufactured by the following method,, from be heated to set point of temperature water top, add the oil phase having melted to this water, or, from the oil phase top having melted, the water that is heated to set point of temperature to this oil phase, afterwards, the mixture of water and oil phase is cooled to room temperature while stirring, thereby obtains oily particle.Surfactant can be added in water or oil phase in advance, or also can be added on respectively in advance in water and oil phase.In the manufacture method of skin composition of the present invention, the viscosity of the above-mentioned water that is heated to set point of temperature is 1000～20000mPas, is preferably 1000～8000mPas.And afore mentioned rules temperature is 50 ℃～90 ℃, preferably 60 ℃～90 ℃, more preferably 70 ℃～90 ℃.
In addition, for the temperature of oil phase, as long as be the temperature that can make each composition mixed melting of oil phase, be not particularly limited.
In water, can comprise above-mentioned macromolecule, pH adjusting agent, gel, above-mentioned surfactant etc.
In oil phase, except comprising ceramide, also can comprise amphipathic solid oil, oiliness composition, above-mentioned surfactant etc.
Embodiment
Embodiment 1-3
As shown in table 1, at room temperature, in container, stir water and glycerol, and add wherein as high molecular carbomer and carrageenan, carbomer and carrageenan are disperseed equably.Afterwards, warming while stirring to 50 ℃.Then, add methyl hydroxybenzoate, sodium chloride to it, and continue stir and keep 50 ℃.After methyl hydroxybenzoate, sodium chloride dissolve, add 48% potassium hydroxide (KOH) aqueous solution, using this as water.
In addition, N-(hexadecane oxygen base hydroxypropyl)-N-hydroxyethyl palmitamide (ceramide type), hexadecanol, cholesterol isostearate, Parleam are heated to 80 ℃ of mixed meltings, using this as oil phase.
From 50 ℃ of waters top, add above-mentioned oil phase to this water, implement to stir with 200rpm, be to be mixedly cooled to while stirring room temperature after evenly.After being cooled to room temperature, add again 48% potassium hydroxide aqueous solution to regulate compositions pH value to neutral, obtain skin composition of the present invention.
Embodiment 4-6
As shown in table 1, except in the time preparing water, temperature being heated up and remaining on 90 ℃, in the time preparing oil phase, temperature is heated to outside 90 ℃, other all prepares skin composition with method similarly to Example 1.
Embodiment 7
As shown in table 1, except not adding sodium chloride in water; And in the time preparing water, temperature heated up and remain on 90 ℃, in the time preparing oil phase, temperature being heated to outside 90 ℃, other all prepares skin composition with method similarly to Example 1.
Embodiment 8
As shown in table 1, except oil phase is to be formed by N-(hexadecane oxygen base hydroxypropyl)-N-hydroxyethyl palmitamide, hexadecanol, cholesterol isostearate, Parleam and sorbitan stearate heating and melting; And in the time preparing water, temperature heated up and remain on 90 ℃, in the time preparing oil phase, temperature being heated to outside 90 ℃, other all prepares skin composition with method similarly to Example 1.
Embodiment 9-10
As shown in table 1, except in the time preparing water, temperature being heated up and remaining on 80 ℃, in the time preparing oil phase, temperature is heated to outside 80 ℃, other all prepares skin composition with method similarly to Example 1.
Embodiment 11
As shown in table 1, except in water only by carbomer as macromolecule; And oil phase is that outside being formed by N-(hexadecane oxygen base hydroxypropyl)-N-hydroxyethyl palmitamide, cholesterol isostearate and Parleam heating and melting, other all prepares skin composition with method similarly to Example 1.
Embodiment 12
As shown in table 1, except in water only by carbomer as macromolecule; And oil phase is that outside being formed by N-(hexadecane oxygen base hydroxypropyl)-N-hydroxyethyl palmitamide, hexadecanol, cholesterol isostearate, Parleam and sorbitan stearate heating and melting, other all prepares skin composition with method similarly to Example 1.
Embodiment 13
As shown in table 1, except in water by carbomer and hydroxyethyl-cellulose as macromolecule; Oil phase is to be formed by N-(hexadecane oxygen base hydroxypropyl)-N-hydroxyethyl palmitamide, cholesterol isostearate and Parleam heating and melting; And in the time preparing water, temperature heated up and remain on 90 ℃, in the time preparing oil phase, temperature being heated to outside 90 ℃, other all prepares skin composition with method similarly to Example 1.
Embodiment 14
As shown in table 1, except in water only by carbomer as macromolecule, and in water, do not add sodium chloride; And in the time preparing water, temperature heated up and remain on 80 ℃, in the time preparing oil phase, temperature being heated to outside 80 ℃, other all prepares skin composition with method similarly to Example 1.
Embodiment 15-16
As shown in table 1, except in water by carbomer and hydroxyethyl-cellulose as macromolecule, and in water, do not add sodium chloride; And in the time preparing water, temperature heated up and remain on 90 ℃, in the time preparing oil phase, temperature being heated to outside 90 ℃, other all prepares skin composition with method similarly to Example 1.
Embodiment 17
As shown in table 1, except in water only by carbomer as macromolecule; And in the time preparing water, temperature heated up and remain on 80 ℃, in the time preparing oil phase, temperature being heated to outside 80 ℃, other all prepares skin composition with method similarly to Example 1.
Embodiment 18
As shown in table 1, except in water by carbomer and Pemulen as macromolecule, and in water, do not add sodium chloride; And in the time preparing water, temperature heated up and remain on 80 ℃, in the time preparing oil phase, temperature being heated to outside 80 ℃, other all prepares skin composition with method similarly to Example 1.
Embodiment 19
As shown in table 1, in water, do not add sodium chloride, other all prepares skin composition with method similarly to Example 1.
Comparative example 1
As shown in table 2, at room temperature, in container, stir water and glycerol, and add wherein as high molecular carbomer, carbomer is disperseed equably.Afterwards, warming while stirring to 50 ℃.Then, add methyl hydroxybenzoate, sodium chloride to it, and continue stir and keep 50 ℃.After methyl hydroxybenzoate, sodium chloride dissolve, add 48% potassium hydroxide aqueous solution, using this as water.
In addition, cholesterol isostearate and Parleam are heated to 80 ℃ of mixed meltings, using this as oil phase.
From 50 ℃ of waters top, add above-mentioned oil phase to this water, implement to stir with 200rpm, be to be mixedly cooled to while stirring room temperature after evenly.After being cooled to room temperature, add again 48% potassium hydroxide aqueous solution to regulate compositions pH value to neutral, obtain skin composition.
Comparative example 2
As shown in table 2, except oil phase be formed by N-(hexadecane oxygen base hydroxypropyl)-N-hydroxyethyl palmitamide, hexadecanol, cholesterol isostearate, Parleam and sorbitan stearate heating and melting, other all prepares skin composition with the method same with comparative example 1.
Comparative example 3
As shown in table 2, at room temperature, in container, stir water and glycerol, and add wherein as high molecular carbomer, carbomer is disperseed equably.Afterwards, warming while stirring to 90 ℃.Then, add methyl hydroxybenzoate, sodium chloride to it, and continue stir and keep 90 ℃.After methyl hydroxybenzoate, sodium chloride dissolve, add 48% potassium hydroxide aqueous solution, using this as water.
In addition, cholesterol isostearate and Parleam are heated to 90 ℃ of mixed meltings, using this as oil phase.
From 90 ℃ of waters top, add above-mentioned oil phase to this water, implement to stir with 200rpm, be to be mixedly cooled to while stirring room temperature after evenly.After being cooled to room temperature, add again 48% potassium hydroxide aqueous solution to regulate compositions pH value to neutral, obtain skin composition.
Comparative example 4
As shown in table 2, except oil phase be formed by N-(hexadecane oxygen base hydroxypropyl)-N-hydroxyethyl palmitamide, hexadecanol, cholesterol isostearate and Parleam heating and melting, other all prepares skin composition with the method same with comparative example 3.
Comparative example 5
As shown in table 2, except oil phase be formed by N-(hexadecane oxygen base hydroxypropyl)-N-hydroxyethyl palmitamide, hexadecanol, cholesterol isostearate, Parleam and sorbitan stearate heating and melting, other all prepares skin composition with the method same with comparative example 3.
Comparative example 6
As shown in table 2, except oil phase is to be formed by N-(hexadecane oxygen base hydroxypropyl)-N-hydroxyethyl palmitamide, hexadecanol, cholesterol isostearate and Parleam heating and melting; And in water, do not add as outside high molecular carbomer and 48% potassium hydroxide aqueous solution, other all prepares skin composition with the method same with comparative example 3.
Comparative example 7
As shown in table 2, except oil phase be formed by hexadecanol, cholesterol isostearate and Parleam heating and melting, other all prepares skin composition with the method same with comparative example 3.
Comparative example 8
As shown in table 2, except oil phase be formed by N-(hexadecane oxygen base hydroxypropyl)-N-hydroxyethyl palmitamide, hexadecanol, cholesterol isostearate and Parleam heating and melting, other prepares skin composition with the method same with comparative example 3.
According to following benchmark, the skin composition of each embodiment and comparative example is evaluated, evaluation result represents respectively in table 1 and table 2.
< outward appearance >
Zero naked eyes can be observed oily particle
× perusal is less than oily particle
< stability >
Resulting composition is preserved 1 month at 50 ℃, observed in the compositions of preserving after 1 month whether oily particle floats and whether the size of oily particle variation has occurred.
Zero does not find floating and not finding that the size of oily particle changes yet of oily particle
There is variation in the × size of floating or observing oily particle of observing oily particle
The hardness > of < oily particle
Good feel to the hardness of oily particle just, the sensation that there is no softness too or too harden
Softness obviously feels that oily particle is too soft
Harden and obviously feel that oily particle too hardens
< use sense >
Zero has the sensation while using existing commercially available product, and sensation is better
× there is the sensation while using existing commercially available product, but feel inferior
< moistening effect >
Zero feels there is moistening effect
× feel there is no moistening effect
Claims (8)
1. a skin composition, is characterized in that:
The oily particle that described skin composition comprises water and disperses in described water, and viscosity is at room temperature 1000～100000mPas,
Wherein, the mean diameter of described oily particle is 0.1～2mm, and the content of described oily particle in described skin composition is 0.5～15 quality %, and, described oily particle contains ceramide type, and the content of described ceramide type in described oily particle is 15～60 quality %
Described water contains macromolecule, and the content of described macromolecule in described water is 0.1～1.0 quality %,
Described macromolecule is that to be selected from department of botany's macromolecular compound, department of microbiology macromolecular compound, animal be more than one the macromolecular compound in macromolecular compound, modified starch, modified cellulose, polyoxyethylene macromolecular compound, CVP Carbopol ETD2050, acrylic acid-methacrylic acid alkyl copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, polyethyl acrylate, polyacrylamide
Described department of botany macromolecular compound is more than one the macromolecular compound being selected from arabic gum, Tragacanth, galactan, carob, guar gum, karaya, carrageenan, pectin, Qiong Zhi, Fructus cydoniae oblongae seed,
Described department of microbiology macromolecular compound is more than one the macromolecular compound being selected from glucosan, pulullan polysaccharide,
Described animal is that macromolecular compound is more than one the macromolecular compound being selected from collagen protein, casein, albumin, gelatin,
Described modified starch is more than one the material being selected from carboxymethyl starch, methyl hydroxypropyl starch,
Described modified cellulose is more than one the material being selected from methylcellulose, ethyl cellulose, methyl hydroxy propyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl-cellulose, cellulose sodium sulfate, hydroxypropyl cellulose, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose,
Described skin composition obtains by following method manufacture: from be heated to set point of temperature water top, add the oil phase having melted to this water, or, from the oil phase top having melted, the water that is heated to set point of temperature to this oil phase, afterwards, the mixture of water and oil phase is cooled to room temperature while stirring, thereby obtain oily particle, described set point of temperature is 50 ℃～90 ℃.
2. skin composition as claimed in claim 1, is characterized in that:
The content of described ceramide type in described oily particle is 20～60 quality %.
3. skin composition as claimed in claim 1, is characterized in that:
The content of described ceramide type in described oily particle is 30～60 quality %.
4. skin composition as claimed in claim 1, is characterized in that:
The macromolecule containing in described water is more than one the macromolecular compound being selected from CVP Carbopol ETD2050, acrylic acid-methacrylic acid alkyl copolymer, carrageenan and hydroxyethyl-cellulose.
5. skin composition as claimed in claim 1, is characterized in that:
Described ceramide type is to be selected from the natural ceramide of I type～VI type and to comprise more than one the material in the synthetic ceramide of N-(2-hydroxyl-3-hexadecane oxygen propyl group)-N-2-ethoxy palmitamide, N-(2-hydroxyl-3-hexadecane oxygen propyl group)-N-2-ethoxy decyl amide.
6. skin composition as claimed in claim 1, is characterized in that:
Described macromolecule is Pluronic F68 family macromolecule compound.
7. the manufacture method of the skin composition as described in claim 1～6, is characterized in that:
From be heated to set point of temperature water top, adds the oil phase having melted to this water, or, above the oil phase having melted, be heated to the water of set point of temperature to this oil phase, afterwards, the mixture of water and oil phase is cooled to room temperature while stirring, thereby obtains oily particle
Described set point of temperature is 50 ℃～90 ℃.
8. the manufacture method of skin composition as claimed in claim 7, is characterized in that:
The viscosity of the described water that is heated to set point of temperature is 1000～20000mPas.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201010180480.6A CN101884603B (en) | 2009-05-14 | 2010-05-14 | Composition for skins and preparation method thereof |
Applications Claiming Priority (3)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN200910138683.6 | 2009-05-14 | ||
| CN200910138683 | 2009-05-14 | ||
| CN201010180480.6A CN101884603B (en) | 2009-05-14 | 2010-05-14 | Composition for skins and preparation method thereof |
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| CN101884603A CN101884603A (en) | 2010-11-17 |
| CN101884603B true CN101884603B (en) | 2014-06-04 |
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| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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| CN201010180480.6A Expired - Fee Related CN101884603B (en) | 2009-05-14 | 2010-05-14 | Composition for skins and preparation method thereof |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN105983130B (en) * | 2015-02-10 | 2019-05-31 | 陕西巨子生物技术有限公司 | A kind of oil especially suitable for dry skin-water two-phase collagen type dressing |
| EP3741353B1 (en) * | 2018-01-19 | 2024-01-17 | LG Household & Health Care Ltd. | Method of preparing a cosmetic composition comprising particles containing high content of ceramide |
| CN110812279A (en) * | 2018-08-08 | 2020-02-21 | 株式会社资生堂 | Oil-in-water emulsion composition and cosmetic containing same |
Citations (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1768724A (en) * | 2004-10-06 | 2006-05-10 | 株式会社资生堂 | Water wrap oil type skin externally applied composition |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| US20020034525A1 (en) * | 2000-06-30 | 2002-03-21 | Kao Corporation | Skin cosmetic composition |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1768724A (en) * | 2004-10-06 | 2006-05-10 | 株式会社资生堂 | Water wrap oil type skin externally applied composition |
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|---|---|
| CN101884603A (en) | 2010-11-17 |
| JP2010265268A (en) | 2010-11-25 |
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