CN101812549B - Natural ecological jean leather and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a natural ecological jean leather and a manufacturing method thereof. The natural ecological jean leather is a soft flaky material compounded from natural ecological leather and cloth. The natural ecological jean leather looks and feels like jean. The invention is characterized in that the leather is greased before and after compounding the leather and the cloth; and in the compounding technology, the grease content in the leather is low, the leather has higher compound operation efficiency and compounding fastness with the cloth, thereby having higher washable property.

Description

Natural ecological jean leather and method of manufacture thereof

(1), technical field the present invention relates to a kind of natural ecological jean leather, and relates to its method of manufacture.Described natural ecological jean leather mainly as garment material, also can be used as case and bag, necktie, shoes and hats, gloves lining.

(2), the matrix material of background technology corium and cloth is in the existing application of shoe-making industry.Its method of manufacture is that the finished product leather is bonded in cloth.This material and its preparation technology's main drawback is:

The first, owing to each item physics, the chemical property of finished product leather have been confirmed constant; Must influence feel and physics, the chemical property of natural leather after it and structure, the diverse cloth of performance are compound, be embodied in usually that the matrix material feel is stiff, elastic force is poor.

The second, in order to make leather suppleness better, finished product leather fat content is all than higher, and with the finished product leather recombining process difficulty of cloth and high fat content, bonding good leather is easy to bubble, and causes materials at two layers to break away from mutually.

Three, the finished product leather softness as garment material is bigger, and very difficult with the operation of cloth adherent, production efficiency is lower.

The 4th just because of between finished product leather and the cloth binding property relatively poor, the water-wash resistance of matrix material can be satisfactory.

(3), summary of the invention technical problem to be solved by this invention is, a kind of natural ecological jean leather and method of manufacture thereof are provided, first, make the outward appearance of finished product and the style that feel possesses JEAN through improving ME; The second, satisfy under the prerequisite soft, plentiful, that elasticity is moderate at finished product, natural leather and cloth compound technology are more reasonable, production efficiency is higher, and both combinations are more firm.

In order to solve the problems of the technologies described above, the present invention has adopted following technical scheme:

A kind of natural ecological jean leather is characterized in that: it is a kind of flexible sheet material that is combined with each other by natural ecological leather and cloth; Its outward appearance and feel possess the style of JEAN;

Described natural ecological leather is a kind of in pig, ox, sheep, the deerskin leather; Described cloth is a kind of in looped fabric, cotton, terylene chemical fabric, cloth of real silk, the yarn-dyed fabric.

The method of manufacture of described natural ecological jean leather is characterized in that preparing according to following steps:

1), with wet blue retanning, the stuffing of thickness at 0.3～0.4mm;

2), dry ura-rate soft, stretch tight flat;

3), through tackiness agent and cloth pasting, 85～95 ℃ of temperature, 2～3 seconds of pressing under pressure 75～85Pa condition;

4), ageing is more than 6 hours, oven dry is 60～120 minutes under 55～65 ℃ of environment;

5), dyeing, stuffing;

6), dry back arrangement;

The 1st) the stuffing amount in step is 8%～12% of a wet blue weight; The 5th) the stuffing amount in step is 10%～15% of a wet blue weight; The fat content of described fatting agent is 35%～45%.

Wherein, before leather and cloth are compound, carry out for the first time an amount of stuffing, and after leather and cloth are compound, to carry out an amount of stuffing second time be gordian technique of the present invention.Stuffing for the first time guarantees that leather has certain pliability, can in water, ease back after compound with cloth and carry out subsequent operations.If there is not this step, leather is stiff inflexible, is difficult to after the drying ease back.If but the stuffing amount is excessive, can influence the compound fastness between the skin cloth again.

In addition, the compound back ageing of skin cloth was dried 60～120 minutes under 55～65 ℃ of environment more than 6 hours then, dye again and the secondary stuffing, and be another gordian technique of the present invention.If there is not the ageing of enough time, it is insufficient that directly oven dry then can cause the volatile solvent volatilization in the tackiness agent, and final skin cloth bonding effect is bad.

The fatting agent consumption of twice stuffing is very important through the balance of the data, particularly twice consumption that obtain after a large amount of experiments.

It also is very important before skin cloth compound working procedure, leather being carried out retanning.If because after skin cloth compound working procedure, leather is carried out retanning, retanning agent and cooperate the acid-alkali treatment that carries out can influence the bond properties between the skin cloth with retanning.And if do not have a retanning operation, can influence the physical and chemical performance of leather on the one hand, can influence follow-up painted uniformity coefficient on the other hand.

Positively effect of the present invention is: (1), natural ecological jean leather of the present invention have good wash durability, do not have obscission between the skin cloth of conventional clothes washing method washing back.Hand feel and drape, relevant chemical index conformance with standard requirement, and have the effect of JEAN.(2), owing to respectively carry out a stuffing in the compound front and back of skin cloth, the cladding fat content is lower in the recombining process, higher with cloth composition operation efficient, compound fastness is better, and then has better wash durability.

(4), embodiment further specifies the present invention below in conjunction with embodiment.

One, the selection of skin base

1, chooses complete pig of integumentary pattern or ox or sheep or deer wet blue.Do choosing of will the scratching greatly of front composite lether, heavy leprosy scar; That does the matte composite lether will have choosing of acne scar.

2, the sheet skin thickness is individual layer 0.3mm, requires to open the skin thickness uniformity.Shaving, deburring behind the split.

Two, retanning and stuffing

1, ease back: 50 ℃ of temperature (outer temperature), coefficient (weight ratio of water and cladding) is 2.0, grease-removing agent 2%, formic acid 1% rotated 2 hours in the rotary drum.

2, washing: control clean waste water, make normal-temperature water, vexed washing 20 minutes.

3, retanning: 45 ℃ of temperature (outer temperature), coefficient is 1.5, and modified glutaraldehyde 1.2% rotated 15 minutes in the rotary drum, and chromium powder 5% rotated 90 minutes in the rotary drum, sodium-acetate 0.5%, sodium bicarbonate 0.3% rotated 120 minutes in the rotary drum, adjustment pH value to 4.0.

4, washing: control clean waste water, make normal-temperature water, vexed washing 25 minutes.

5, neutralization: 32 ℃ of temperature (interior temperature), coefficient is 1.5, in tannin 6%, sodium bicarbonate 1% rotated in the rotary drum 60 minutes.

6, washing: control clean waste water, make normal-temperature water, vexed washing 25 minutes.

7, stuffing: 50 ℃ of temperature (interior temperature), coefficient is 1.5, and fatting agent 12% rotated 60 minutes in the rotary drum, and formic acid 3% rotated 30 minutes in the rotary drum.

The fat content of described fatting agent is about 40%.

8, normal temperature washing goes out the drum extension and dries in the air.

Three, fall soft and arrangement

Extension dries in the air and thorough drying ura-rate drum.Fall and require that the skin base is soft can to go out drum when flexible when bulging.Go out drum back toggling, deburring is subsequent use.

Four, skin cloth is compound

1, select environmental protection glue: the environmental protection index of glue must reach European standard.Film forming softness and good-extensibility, unchangeability under 130 ℃ of high temperature and subzero 40 ℃ of low temperature.Can water-fastly wash.

2, compound scope: a kind of in real silk, terylene, continuous cloth, the looped fabric etc. with cloth.

3, bonding:

1), the ratio of having allocated glue, left standstill after stirring 2 hours

2), glue is coated on the cloth uniformly, wait the dried slightly back of moisture of glue to go up machine and skin carries out compound.

3), 92 ℃ of equipment pressing temperature, pressure is 78Pa, front composite material-feeding and flesh side of a belt are bonding, matte composite lether cloth and grain side of leather are bonding, and foaming or cloth, skin discounting phenomenon must not be arranged.2～3 seconds pressing time.

4, compound good leather ageing is after 24 hours, and baking is 20 minutes under 65 ℃ of high temperature.

Five, dyeing and fat-liquoring

The front composite lether can directly be gone up drum dyeing, and the matte composite lether is gone up drum dyeing again after the buffing napping.

1, ease back: 50 ℃ of temperature (interior temperature), coefficient 1.5, grease-removing agent 2%, formic acid 1% rotated 2 hours in the rotary drum.

2, dyeing and fat-liquoring: stoste is carried out, and dyestuff X% (confirming dyestuff kind and consumption according to finished color) rotated 90 minutes in the rotary drum; Fatting agent 10% rotated 1 hour in the rotary drum, and formic acid 2% rotated 30 minutes in the rotary drum, and laking agent 1% rotated 30 minutes in the rotary drum.

3, washing: normal-temperature water is vexed washes each 15 minutes 2 times.

4, go out drum: extension dries dry.

In the above-mentioned steps, material usage is all in cladding weight.

Six, arrangement

1, the matte composite leather falls and can cut the limit after soft and directly go out finished product.

2, the front composite leather needs after slight covering with paint, to go out finished product.

The actual detected result of finished product:

One, washing shrinkage: measure according to GB8632-2001, laterally washing shrinkage 5%, vertically washing shrinkage 8%.

Two, physical and chemical performance.

Key instrument equipment is used in check: GJ9B1 type leather thickness measuring instrument (MM36), PHSJ-4A type laboratory pH meter (MM11), LJ-500 type puller system (MM2), GT-7034-E IULTCS frictional testing machines, PS-83 type leather shrinking temperature appearance (MM41).Test ambient temperature: 19 ℃, ambient moisture: 66%.

Detected result: thickness in monolayer 0.6mm.Tear edge 26N.Given load elongation 31%.5 grades of fastness to rubbing xerotripsis, 5 grades of wet rubbings.96 ℃ of shrinkage temperatures.pH4.0。

Whole accord with Q B/T 1872-2004 standards.

Three, the index relevant with harmful substance contents.

Finished product is through the check of Chinese leather association, and general physical and chemical index and special chemical index all reach " the beautiful ecological leather products standard of corium " requirement.Meet ecological leather standard.

Claims (1)

1. natural ecological jean leather, it is characterized in that: it is a kind of flexible sheet material that is combined with each other by natural ecological leather and cloth; Its outward appearance and feel possess the style of JEAN;

Described natural ecological leather is a kind of in pig, ox, sheep, the deerskin leather; Described cloth is a kind of in looped fabric, cotton, terylene chemical fabric, cloth of real silk, the yarn-dyed fabric;

Described natural ecological jean leather prepares according to following steps:

1), with wet blue retanning, the stuffing of thickness at 0.3～0.4mm; The fatting agent consumption is 8%～12% of a wet blue weight;

2), dry ura-rate soft, stretch tight flat;

3), through tackiness agent and cloth pasting, 85～95 ℃ of temperature, 2～3 seconds of pressing under pressure 75～85Pa condition;

4), ageing is more than 6 hours, oven dry is 60～120 minutes under 55～65 ℃ of environment;

5), dyeing, stuffing; The fatting agent consumption is 10%～15% of a wet blue weight;

6), dry back arrangement;

The fat content of described fatting agent is 35%～45%.