CN101006873A - A method for designing and mapping the clothing pattern sheet according to plane structure of a structure plane graph - Google Patents

A method for designing and mapping the clothing pattern sheet according to plane structure of a structure plane graph Download PDF

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Publication number
CN101006873A
CN101006873A CNA2006101221736A CN200610122173A CN101006873A CN 101006873 A CN101006873 A CN 101006873A CN A2006101221736 A CNA2006101221736 A CN A2006101221736A CN 200610122173 A CN200610122173 A CN 200610122173A CN 101006873 A CN101006873 A CN 101006873A
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clothes
point
number type
pattern
style
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CN101006873B (en
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邓炎驹
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Individual
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Individual
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Priority to CN2006101221736A priority Critical patent/CN101006873B/en
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Priority to PCT/CN2007/002746 priority patent/WO2008040167A1/en
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • A41H3/007—Methods of drafting or marking-out patterns using computers

Abstract

A mapping method for design costume paper sample according to planar construction of structural plan comprises: design and mapping according to structural plan planar construction of XOY geometry plane, position point, position, bisector, position computing formula, position design formula, position point decomposition formula, dart and wimple, structure outline and sutural line; selecting proportion to perform grade difference mapping of costume paper sample according to costume specification grade difference; selecting becoming amount to ascertain the shape of costume; select adjusted value to perform costume paper sample design and protraction according to the pattern, shape, and molding of costume, and somatotype; arranging dart and wimple according to pattern, shape and molding represence of costume; selecting becoming fitting to form costume paper sample pattern. Position of position point is restricted by the costume specification. Position of structure line point is free from restriction.

Description

Planar structure by a kind of structural plan figure is carried out the apparel pattern design drafting method
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of apparel pattern design drafting method that is undertaken by the planar structure of a kind of structural plan figure; More particularly, the planar structure that the present invention relates to a kind of apparel construction plane according to a kind of XOY of setting geometrical plane etc. is carried out style, shelves difference and number type method for designing and mapping of pattern tissue.
Background technology
Existing apparel construction designs, and from just founding, oneself is through being the formation rule of thumb; Only know its result, do not know its reason; For example do not know on the position of same position point, the style of pattern tissue drawing folding and unfolding 1CM with put yard reason of folding and unfolding 0.5CM.And for example using planar how much and mathematical formulae: emphatically the irregular solid surface of research and analysis human body and with the relation of build; And ignore research and analysis pattern tissue figure flat shape and with the relation of build: as on the basis of build, with the style shape moulding performance of the clothes of human body appearance, the blemish in an otherwise perfect thing of replenishing build appearance curve form; Designing and mapping with the pattern tissue that carries out according to the style shape moulding of build, clothes performance; Decoration to the irregular curved surface of build appearance.
Therefore think, cannot applicating geometric and mathematical formulae computational methods and analysis in structural design; Thereby hindered the constantly perfect of apparel pattern design drafting method and continued development to standardization, standardization, format, automation, CADization direction.
Summary of the invention
The object of the present invention is to provide a kind of planar structure of the apparel construction plane according to a kind of XOY of setting geometrical plane etc.; Style shape moulding performance, specification shelves difference and number type according to build, clothes; Select adjusted value, ratio and number type respectively; Method for designing and mapping with the style of carrying out pattern tissue, shelves difference and number type.
Another purpose of the present invention is to provide a kind of apparel construction plane that XOY geometrical plane etc. is set on the figure of structural plan.
The objective of the invention is to realize by following technical scheme; It comprises following step:
(1) on a kind of apparel construction plane, is provided with respectively: 1) XOY geometrical plane; 2) position point; 3) position; 4) bisector; 5) position computing formula; 6) position design formula; 7) position point decomposition formula; 8) province and Zhe pleat; 9) structure line and suture.
(2) carry out style, shelves difference and number type designing and mapping of pattern tissue according to the planar structure of the apparel construction plane of a kind of XOY of setting geometrical plane etc.:
1) poor according to the specification shelves of clothes, select and the identical ratio of cloth part shelves difference; To carry out the shelves difference drawing of pattern tissue;
2) according to the style shape moulding of clothes, appropriateness is selected the quantity of margin of suitable clothes: to determine number type of single-piece clothes;
3) according to number type of clothes, select number type identical with number type of clothes; To carry out number type drawing of pattern tissue;
4) according to the style shape moulding performance of build, clothes, selection shows identical adjusted value with the style shape moulding of build, clothes; To carry out the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue:
1, on number type structural plan figure,, forms the specification framework plane according to the gauge type of clothes;
2, will be on the specification framework plane, the pattern design drawing of carrying out pattern tissue according to the shape of the style shape moulding performance kimonos dress of build, clothes is decomposed into: the position point; The position; Province and rivel are set; Four steps of structure line designing and mapping;
3, the shape of adorning according to the style shape moulding performance kimonos of build, clothes; On the position of the point on the structure line, appropriate folding and unfolding or selection suitable dimensions; To carry out the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue.
(3) on dress form figure, carry out the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue or the shape copying of clothes:
1) at first according to the specification shelves difference and number type of clothes, forms the specification framework plane;
2) carry out the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue according to the style shape moulding performance of build, clothes or the shape of clothes then.
(4) on dress form figure according to the shelves differences and number type of clothes, carry out the shelves difference and number type drawing of other style pattern tissue: the shelves according to clothes are poor, the selection grade difference type card identical with the position shelves difference of clothes in the shelves difference type card of position point; According to number type of clothes, on number type card of position point, select number type scale identical with number type of clothes.
Wherein:
(1) at a kind of apparel construction plane that XOY geometrical plane etc. is set respectively on the figure of structural plan; Have following described: the apparel pattern design cartography all is to calculate according to the planar structure of structural plan figure (as frame diagram etc.) to be drawn as pattern tissue.
The apparel construction plane is to improve on the basis of the prototype figure of the frame diagram of existing clothes ratio drawing method and prototype drafting method; As the XOY geometrical plane is set and sets up the apparel construction plane of its notion, it is as the variation model of the plane pattern tissue that is both three-dimensional clothes: for example, the style shape of pattern tissue figure, shelves differences what and number type size, all the five equilibrium of bisector of planar structure according to it changes; How much are adjusted value in the computing formula, ratio and number type; Style shape, shelves difference what and number type size with the plane pattern tissue; Variation with the style shape moulding of three-dimensional clothes, shelves difference what and number type size.
The apparel construction plane is meant the plane structure chart of certain a series of style pattern tissue; Be the plane outspread drawing and the basic pattern of these a series of style three-dimensional clothes of buman body type appearance; It is the plane variation model of style shape, shelves differences what and number type size variation of this series style pattern tissue.The apparel construction plane is according to the planar structure genealogical classification of pattern tissue: for example, and the shirt body of last dress, shirt sleeve, shirt neck, bag, the trousers body of following dress, skirt body ... Deng.Series style clothes difference, the shape of pattern tissue structural plan figure is different with its planar structure; For example, shape and the planar structure of shirt and Western-style clothes structural plan figure.
The position on the position on the apparel construction plane of plane and the position of the point on the suture and the corresponding three-dimensional clothes and the position of the point on the suture are corresponding mutually; For example, the position of preceding bottom of s trouser leg position on the preceding crotch foot site 9 on preceding bottom of s trouser leg position 13 on the figure of male trousers structural plan and the suture and the corresponding male trousers and the preceding crotch bottom of s trouser leg position point on the suture is corresponding mutually.
1) as the XOY geometrical plane of Fig. 1; The XOY geometrical plane that on the apparel construction plane, is provided with; Have following described:
Because the present invention is style shape moulding performance, shelves difference what and number type size according to clothes; Select what of adjusted value, ratio and number type; With style shape, shelves difference what and number type size design drawing of carrying out pattern tissue.So the apparel construction plane is a width of cloth XOY plane figure in theory; Last dress is a parameter with chest measurement B, and the hip circumference H of the following dress of the present invention is a parameter.
2) as the position point of Fig. 2; The position point that on the apparel construction plane, is provided with: have following described:
Position point: the position on the apparel construction plane to angle point, turning point; The point of decision clothing specification; Because the position point is the point at two ends on the structure line, so position point is the point on the structure line simultaneously; As preceding crotch waist site 1.
The position of position point, the shape of decision apparel construction plane figure; The style shape moulding performance of decision build, clothes.
3) as the position of Fig. 2; The position that on the apparel construction plane, is provided with; Have following described:
Position: the position of face or line; On the apparel construction plane, be the position between two position points of expression equally.
The length at position, the shape of decision apparel construction plane figure; The specification of decision clothes; Wherein: go up the chest measurement position of dress, as the wide position of preceding chest measurement; Under adorn the hip circumference position, as preceding hip breadth 12 positions; Position for decision garment size (referring to type).
4) as the bisector of Fig. 1; The bisector that on the apparel construction plane, is provided with; Have following described:
Bisector: the five equilibrium change sign on the ground line on the figure of structural plan;
The variation of the style shape on the bisector standard apparel construction plane figure, shelves differences what and number type size.
5) as the position of Fig. 2; The position computing formula that on the apparel construction plane, is provided with; Have following described:
The position computing formula: the parameter with the position is the mathematical formulae of CALCULATION OF PARAMETERS span access location length.
Because with preceding hip breadth position 12 computing formula: for example: wide 13 computing formula of the 1/4H-1 and the forward foot in a step: the bottom of s trouser leg is wide by-2
Being decomposed into parameter is: 1/4H, the bottom of s trouser leg are wide;-1 ,-2 o'clock and fixed number::
So the expression-form of position computing formula is: parameter+fixed number
6) as the position of Fig. 2; The position design formula that on the apparel construction plane, is provided with; Have following described:
Position design formula: on the figure of structural plan, with the parameter mathematical formulae that is the CALCULATION OF PARAMETERS span access location length.
Since the position design formula, for example: preceding hip breadth design formula: 1/4H-1
When it is decomposed into :-1 expression adjusted value; 1/4 expression ratio; During the H number of expression type:
So the expression-form of position design formula is: ratio * number type+adjusted value.
Wherein, ratio is calculated by cloth part shelves difference and is determined; Design formula is determined by the length computation at ratio and position; Simultaneously, ratio represent pattern tissue the position 1CM type shelves difference what.Ratio difference in the design formula, how many differences of shelves difference of pattern tissue; Number type difference, number type of pattern tissue varies in size; The adjusted value difference, the style shape difference of pattern tissue.
Because traditional following installing meter drawing is a foundation with parameter hip circumference H; Relating to the notion of calculating preceding hip breadth formula: 1/4H-1 can not change quickly; If with parameter waistline W explanation, increase complexity relatively: so this example is to be the example explanation with parameter hip circumference H to the present invention's explanation.But actually, as national garment size standard, following dress is to be standard with waistline W; The specification stepping of the relative waistline of shelves difference at its each position such as the variation of 4CM or 2CM; The difference of build Y, A, B, C, the shelves difference difference that each position is relative.So in fact, whether following dress is that parameter is more suitable with waistline W; For example, be Western-style trousers illustraton of model of parameter designing with waistline W, on this illustraton of model, can select the shelves difference type card of different build Y, A, B, C type according to the specification shelves difference of clothes; Shelves with the pattern tissue of selecting build Y, A, B, C type are poor.Also be the present invention with the crotch difference of trousers length be 0 and 2, and be the reason that example charts with explanation shelves difference without the shelves difference as 3.2,3.6 of hip circumference.
7) as the position point of Fig. 2; The position point decomposition formula that on the apparel construction plane, is provided with; Have following described:
Position point decomposition formula: the mathematical formulae of the position of point on the figure of structural plan on calculating part site, the structure line.
The decomposition formula of position point, for example: the decomposition formula in preceding crotch waist site 1: X=-(1/10H-0.3) and Y=1/4H because, when it is decomposed into: 0.3 and 0 the expression adjusted value; 1/10 and 1/4 expression ratio; During the H number of expression type;
So the expression-form of position point decomposition formula is: X=ratio * number type+adjusted value and Y=ratio * number type+adjusted value.
Owing to be adjusted value, ratio and number type style, shelves difference and number type designing and mapping of standard pattern tissue respectively equally; So for convenience of explanation, the expression formula of position design formula and position point decomposition formula is equally: ratio * number type+adjusted value.
Position point decomposition formula and ratio thereof are calculated by position design formula and ratio thereof and bisector and are determined; Simultaneously, ratio represent pattern tissue position point 1CM type shelves difference what; Position point decomposition formula ratio difference, how many differences of shelves difference of pattern tissue; Number type difference, number type of pattern tissue varies in size; The adjusted value difference, the style shape difference of pattern tissue.
8) as province and the rivel of Fig. 2; Province that on the apparel construction plane, is provided with and rivel; Have following described:
Economize 41 and rivel 42 as Fig. 2; It is the example of supposing to be provided with province and rivel for convenience of explanation at structural plan figure.
Economize: save the back and sew up; It comprises cut-off rule, the extension of province; And PRINCESS SEAM, a kind of expression-form of cut-off rule.
On the apparel construction plane, the province of setting is a kind of expressions of clothes according to the style shape moulding performance of build, clothes; The province that is provided with according to the style shape moulding performance of build, clothes, its province's amount, position, quantity, direction, shape, and the size difference of the position folding and unfolding of the point on the provincial highway or selection, the local or whole style shape moulding difference of clothes.
Province belongs to the expression way of a kind of style shape moulding performance of clothes; Sew up the back and form a line; U.S. of natural, amiable, the curve of the style shape moulding performance of the clothes of performance build appearance.
Rivel: receive pleat, fold into and overlapping; As difformities such as wave, form moulding; Be assumed to be a kind of expression-form of rivel: by receiving pleat, folding into and overlapping; The mutual variation relation of the position of rivel, quantity, direction, form, pleat and pleat and forming.
On the apparel construction plane, the rivel of setting is a kind of expressions of clothes according to the style shape moulding performance of build, clothes; The rivel that is provided with according to the style shape moulding performance of build, clothes, its rivel amount, position, quantity, direction, shape difference, the local or whole style shape moulding performance of clothes is different.
Rivel: a kind of style shape that the belongs to clothes existing expression way of making a list; Receive pleat, fold into the activity space that increases corresponding site with overlapping back, form the local or whole different shape moulding of clothes appearance; The style shape moulding performance of the clothes of performance build appearance freely, easily, romantic U.S..
9) as the structure line of Fig. 1; The structure line and the suture that on the apparel construction plane, are provided with; Have following described:
Structure line: the joint lines between the position point on the figure of structural plan, the line of decision apparel construction plane graphics shape.
Suture: the sewing position on the pattern tissue on the figure of structural plan; Because sutural feature is identical with the feature of structure line; So for convenience of explanation, sutural explanation is omitted.Simultaneously, the point 53 on structure line 34 as Fig. 4 narrows 1CM; Be for convenience of explanation: on the position of the point on the structure line, directly folding and unfolding or select to form outline line and the example supposed.
In theory, the structure line is made up of unlimited point; The shape of the determining positions apparel construction plane of each point; The style shape moulding performance of decision clothes.Because the structure line is the line of decision apparel construction plane graphics shape; So except illustrating, the structure line comprises the position point (as preceding crotch waist site 1) at itself and two ends, economizing a little and rivel point, provincial highway of being provided with; As the ground line that is provided with, be the reference line on the figure of structural plan.
(2) carry out style, shelves difference and number type designing and mapping of pattern tissue according to the planar structure of the apparel construction plane of a kind of XOY of setting geometrical plane etc.; Have following described:
The designing and mapping of pattern tissue is respectively the designing and mapping of style shape, shelves differences what and number type size of pattern tissue.
The style of pattern tissue, shelves difference and number type designing and mapping; Be meant the style apparel pattern design drawing of single piece number type clothes, the style pattern tissue drawing of other specification shelves difference clothes and the style pattern tissue drawing of other gauge type clothes respectively.
The method for designing and mapping of pattern tissue is to improve on the basis of existing clothing drafting method; As on the structural plan figure that XOY geometrical plane etc. is set, carrying out the designing and mapping of pattern tissue; The style shape moulding of clothes shows, how much poor shelves are and the designing and mapping of number type size; As the style shape of carrying out pattern tissue at pattern tissue plane variation model, shelves difference what and number type size design drawing.For example, its selects what of adjusted value, ratio and number type in computing formula; With style shape, shelves difference what and number type size of selecting the pattern tissue figure; Designing and mapping with the style of carrying out pattern tissue, shelves difference and number type.
1) poor according to the shelves of clothes, select and the identical ratio of cloth part shelves difference; To carry out the shelves difference drawing of pattern tissue:
It is the shelves difference drawing that does not have pattern tissue that existing apparel pattern design drawing side goes; So the code method of putting of existing pattern tissue can only be that the shelves difference of one group of clothes is put sign indicating number.But clothes shelves difference is not to fix one group, has more than one group: for example Y of garment size standard, A, B, C type build; Area (country); Poor as the clothes shelves that books and periodicals are introduced; The clothes shelves that travelling trader provides are poor.
The present invention only needs to differ from the identical ratio of selecting with in the decomposition formula of formula according to the shelves of clothes; Poor with the shelves of selecting pattern tissue.Because position period type card is according to the position shelves difference class of clothes, so carrying out the shelves difference drawing of pattern tissue on the illustraton of model: the shelves difference according to clothes is selected the shelves difference type card identical with cloth part shelves difference in position point shelves difference type card; For example, in the shelves difference type cards (1) and (2) in the preceding crotch foot site 9 on the illustraton of model of Fig. 5, a selection grade difference type card (2).
Shelves difference is 0: the shelves difference as trousers length is 0, no matter number type H (as 103) how much, always the length of trousers length identical 103.
2) according to the style shape moulding of clothes, appropriateness is selected the quantity of margin of suitable clothes, to determine number type of clothes:
The designing and mapping of pattern tissue is at first in the pattern design drawing and the sample modification of the pattern tissue of single piece number type; Carry out the shelves difference of other pattern tissue and the drawing of number type then.The present invention is according to the style shape moulding performance of clothes and the variation relation of clothes quantity of margin, and progressively from narrow to wide, what of suitable clothes quantity of margin are appropriateness select; To determine number type of single-piece clothes.For example, between the quantity of margin 4---24CM of male trousers, relaxation of selection amount 14CM selects single-piece male trousers type 104;
3) according to number type of clothes, select number type identical with number type of clothes; To carry out number type drawing of pattern tissue:
Existing apparel pattern design drafting method is not to make number type of pattern tissue chart, but pattern tissue put sign indicating number; It is when clothing industry production that pattern tissue is put code method, carries out that two numbers pattern tissues drawing more than the type time can go wrong and not to sample in order to reduce; And a kind of of invention has only the pattern tissue of one a group of specification shelves difference and a group number type to put code method; Overall process is full of the experience composition.The shelves difference drawing of one group of pattern tissue can only stipulating differs from 2 as the trousers length shelves, can not carry out the shelves difference drawing of another group pattern tissue simultaneously, is 0 as trousers length shelves difference; Number type drawing of one group of pattern tissue of regulation as number type 100,104,108, can not be carried out number type drawing of any, random pattern tissue simultaneously, as number type 102,104,105,108,112 etc.
But number type of clothes is not fixedly to have only one or one group: as number type standard: the type difference of build, its number type (refer to type, as hip circumference) difference; With the one-piece type type, the function of clothes, quantity of margin difference, its number type difference; The specification stepping of clothes: as 2CM or 4CM, the selection difference of its number type; The build in area varies in size its number type difference.
And the present invention only need according to number type of clothes select with decomposition formula in identical number type; To select number type of pattern tissue.
Because position period type card calculates drafting according to number type of clothes, so carrying out number type drawing of pattern tissue on the illustraton of model: number type according to clothes is selected identical with it number type scale on number type card; For example, as selection type 104,108.
4) carry out the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue according to the style of clothes: according to the style shape moulding performance of build, clothes, selection shows identical adjusted value with the style shape moulding of build, clothes; To carry out the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue:
The style shape moulding performance of clothes is meant an expression-form that is worn in the style appearance of clothes on one's body.
The apparel pattern design drafting method is meant the clothes appearance of designer according to the style shape moulding performance of the build of being imagined, clothes; It is drawn as the process of style, shelves difference and number type pattern tissue; Rather than the dress designing of apparel appearance form.
Style shape moulding performance according to build, clothes is charted with the pattern design of carrying out pattern tissue; Be meant on the basis of build: the mutual variation relation according to the graphics shape of the style shape moulding performance of build, clothes and apparel construction plane carries out the apparel pattern design drawing.For example: on the specification framework plane 615 of Fig. 7 illustraton of model: the different selection according to the position of preceding crotch knee point 7, abjugal suture knee point 8, preceding crotch pin point 9, abjugal suture pin point 10 changes; Mutual variation relation with the shape moulding performance of common, the straight tube of male trousers, loudspeaker; With common, the straight tube that carries out male trousers, the designing and mapping of loudspeaker pattern.
A. the pattern design of clothes paper pattern drawing, at first the specification according to clothes forms the specification framework plane; On the specification framework plane, carry out the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue then according to the style shape moulding performance of build, clothes.
B. the pattern design drawing of will be on the specification framework plane carrying out pattern tissue according to the shape of the style shape moulding performance kimonos dress of build, clothes is decomposed into: the position point; The position; Province and rivel are set; Four steps of the designing and mapping of structure line:
After the present invention has been arranged, on the specification framework plane of same planar structure, carry out the designing and mapping of the style shape moulding performance of different clothes: because the style shape moulding of designed clothes performance is different, the style shape difference of pattern tissue; Plane distribution difference on the figure of structural plan; Its branch cloth cover can be its part; Also can be the whole of it.
For example, on the specification framework plane of a blouse, carry out same planar structure serial blouse, reveal shoulder, when revealing the designing and mapping of prevalent fashions such as tripe; Its branch cloth cover can be the part of frame diagram; Also can be the whole of it.
C. owing to the shape of adorning according to the style shape moulding performance kimonos of build, clothes is carried out the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue; Be on the position of putting on the structure line, appropriate folding and unfolding or selection suitable dimensions; To carry out the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue; So designer's GPRS: the style shape moulding performance according to clothes is provided with province, rivel; The position of position point is limited by clothing specification, and the point on the structure line is unrestricted; The position of point on folding and unfolding what with the variation relation of the style shape moulding performance of clothes, just can be according to the imagination of oneself; Pattern design drawing with the pattern tissue of the style shape moulding performance of carrying out required clothes; For example, in the folding and unfolding and the selection of the position in the preceding crotch waist site 1 of Fig. 4.
The style appearance moulding of clothes is to be imagined out by people's inspiration; After the present invention had been arranged, the designer can give full play to inspiration and intention according to the imagination and the design of oneself; Quantity of margin by clothes is to determine number type of single-piece clothes; Province and rivel are set; The size of the point on position point, the structure line progressively folding and unfolding or selection and with the causality of the style shape moulding performance of clothes, to determine the shape of pattern tissue; One arbitrarily creates the style shape moulding of clothes that make new advances, suitable surely.
The practical experience of D. so-called dress designing drawing; Wherein be meant the style shape moulding performance according to clothes, appropriateness is selected the quantity of margin of suitable clothes; Appropriate folding and unfolding or select what of suitable dimension on the position of point; This appropriateness and suitable be exactly designer's practical experience.Simultaneously, because " appropriateness and suitable " of each step of the present invention all is how much to be foundation with quantity (numeral); So, success each time and failure, simultaneously oneself is through for designing and mapping summing up experience next time with prepare.
E. the planar design drafting method of clothes is to conceive on the figure of structural plan, according to the style shape moulding performance imagination of build, clothes, to carry out the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue.The three-dimensional designing and mapping method of clothes, be directly on the build model, carry out the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue according to the style shape moulding of build, clothes performance: the cloth sheet on the build model as the specification framework plane on the build model, the style shape moulding of carrying out pattern tissue shows designing and mapping.For example: on the build model: on adorn chest measurement or down the dress hip circumference be number type size position of decision clothes; Appropriateness is selected suitable quantity of margin, to determine number type size of clothes; A kind of appearance form of expression of the style shape moulding performance that province that is provided with and rivel are clothes; The position of position point, the length at position are subjected to the specification limits of clothes; Point on the structure line is unrestricted; According to the imagination and the design of the style shape moulding of clothes performance, what of size progressively folding and unfolding on the position in point (sideline of cloth sheet), appropriateness select; To carry out the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue.With on illustraton of model, carry out the shelves difference and number type drawing of other pattern tissue.
(3) on dress form figure, carry out the pattern design drawing of clothes or duplicating of clothes shape; (4) other shelves difference and number type at the enterprising line sample of dress form figure pattern tissue charts; Have following described:
As the male trousers illustraton of model of Fig. 5 is structural plan figure according to a kind of XOY of setting geometrical plane of step (1) etc., with the form of data and chart, and printing (product) in advance or draw; As on the male trousers illustraton of model of Fig. 5 according to step (2): the planar structure that the structural plan figure of XOY geometrical plane is set is carried out the style of pattern tissue, shelves differences and number type designing and mapping.
Among the present invention, with the form of data and chart, print (product) or rendering model figure in advance about at first; On illustraton of model, carry out style, shelves difference and number type designing and mapping of clothes then.The existing introduction in " the dress planar drafting method and the dress form figure thereof " of inventions such as inventor Deng Yan coltfoal: its application number: 200510034077.1; Publication number: CN 1765248A.
Step (3) wherein, on illustraton of model: the pattern design drawing according to pattern tissue is to carry out the apparel pattern design drawing according to the style shape moulding of clothes; Charting according to duplicating of clothes is the drawing of carrying out pattern tissue according to the shape of duplicating clothes.
The present invention further improves on inventor's invention " dress planar drafting method and dress form figure thereof " basis and is perfect; After notion of the present invention has been arranged; Dress form figure is as the variation model and the designing and mapping instrument of style, shelves difference and number type of the pattern tissue that is both these series style clothes; Carrying out the apparel pattern design drawing on the illustraton of model as the style of on the pattern tissue model, selecting pattern tissue, shelves difference and number type.For example: the style of pattern tissue, in the position 52 (Fig. 4) of preceding crotch waist site 1 selected element; The shelves of pattern tissue are poor, select shelves difference type cards (2) (Fig. 5) in the preceding crotch foot site 9 grades of number of difference types card (1) and (2); Number type of pattern tissue, selection type scale 108 (Fig. 5) on No. 1 type card in crotch waist site:
A. the style of clothes: though with epoch, area, popular, the style shape moulding of clothes performance is ever-changing, on the serial style apparel construction plane of its tangible same level structure, and the position difference of putting on style position point, the structure line just.
B. the shelves of clothes are poor: though as clothing specification: with travelling trader; Number type standard; The area; The position shelves difference difference of clothes; In fact, in the selection difference of grade difference type card in the shelves difference type card at position point just on the illustraton of model;
C. number type of clothes: though, with the function such as the regional changes in temperature of clothes; The style shape moulding of clothes is as close-fitting and loose; The quantity of margin difference of clothes; Number type of clothes vary in size (number types of single-piece clothes); On number type card of each position point of its tangible illustraton of model, be the selection difference (number types of single-piece clothes) of the position of number type scale.
Though, as the difference of number type size of the standard of travelling trader's requirement, number type, build; Number type difference of clothes; In fact, on number type card of each position point of illustraton of model, the position difference (garment size of other number type) of number type scale of selecting just.
The present invention has the designing and mapping of style, shelves differences and number type of pattern tissue, and reason, level, cause and effect are clearly demarcated; How much with quantity (numeral) is foundation; The advantage that one reason hundred is led to; Standardization, standardization, format, automation, CADization for clothes, apparel pattern design drawing provides method and foundation simultaneously.For example: the application in CAD of Garment: the mathematical formulae in conjunction with computer calculates fast, planar graph changes advantage flexibly; For example on screen, set up position point decomposition formula quantity (numeral) what with the mutual variation model of shape of apparel construction plane (pattern tissue) figure; Set up dress form figure, the mutual with it style garment virtual model that changes: for example, on screen, specification shelves difference and gauge type according to clothes form the specification framework plane: the ratio in the formula of selection calculating part site decomposition formula, poor with the shelves of selecting pattern tissue: wide from being too narrow to, appropriateness is selected suitable quantity of margin, with the size of number type of determining clothes; Select and the identical number type position point position of number type in the position point decomposition formula, with number type of selection pattern tissue.Style shape moulding performance according to build, clothes: province and rivel are set; On the position of point, appropriate folding and unfolding or select identical with it horizontal value or vertically be worth size; On the position of point, folding and unfolding or the identical with it size of selection; Put from receiving, how much are appropriate folding and unfolding or selection suitable dimensions; With style shaped design drawing of carrying out pattern tissue etc.Obtain required all styles of, shelves difference and number type pattern tissue by computer output again.
Below in conjunction with accompanying drawing and concrete embodiment, so that the present invention is further illustrated.
Description of drawings
Figure 1 shows that XOY plane, bisector, structure line and suture schematic diagram are set on the apparel construction plane.
Figure 2 shows that position point, position, province and rivel schematic diagram are set on the apparel construction plane.
Figure 3 shows that a kind of planar structure schematic diagram that the serial style apparel construction plane of XOY plane etc. is set.
Figure 4 shows that on the Figure 51 of specification framework plane, according to the style shape moulding performance of build, male trousers; Carry out the male trousers cutting schematic diagram of style (profile Figure 54) designing and mapping of male trousers pattern.
Figure 5 shows that on illustraton of model number type structural plan Figure 61 schematic diagram that shelves according to table 1 differ from 1, number type 104 forms.
Figure 6 shows that the schematic diagram that on Fig. 5 type structural plan Figure 61, forms the specification framework plane according to the specification of table 2.
Figure 7 shows that the schematic diagram of the table 2 specification framework plane 615 that on the specification of Fig. 6, forms.
(Fig. 5,6,7 illustraton of model schematic diagram are continued to use illustraton of model schematic diagram among " the dress planar drafting method and the dress form figure thereof " of inventor's invention; Each position period type figure, number molded lines (card) on the illustraton of model wherein was with 1: 1 scale)
The specific embodiment
Enumerate specific embodiment below, carry out the apparel pattern design drafting method so that the planar structure by a kind of structural plan of the present invention to be described.
The present invention is an example with male trousers pattern anter (not comprising waist position 4CM), with explanation apparel pattern design drafting method.
For convenience of explanation, in an embodiment, suppose that the ratio of Fig. 4 male trousers cutting schematic diagram and Fig. 5,6,7 illustraton of model schematic diagram is 1: 1; Fig. 5,6,7 illustraton of model are the apparel pattern design drafting instruments that prints (product) in advance or draw.
(1) please join the planar structure schematic diagram of the serial male trousers pattern structural plan figure of Fig. 3: it comprises what Fig. 1 and Fig. 2 were provided with on the figure of structural plan: 1) XOY geometrical plane; 2) position point; 3) position; 4) bisector; 5) position computing formula; 6) position design formula; 7) position point decomposition formula.8) province and rivel; 9) structure line and suture.
(2) please refer to Fig. 5,6,7 and Fig. 4: because Fig. 5,6 61 be assumed to be table 1 specification: shelves differ from structural plan Figure 61 of 1 number type 104; Structural plan Figure 51 of Fig. 4 and structural plan Figure 61 5 of Fig. 7 are assumed to be equally on number type 104 structural plan Figure 61, according to specification framework plane Figure 51 or 615 of table 2 specification formation; So, for the ease of clear explanation:
1) is example explanation with 61 and 615 of Fig. 5,6,7 serial male trousers illustratons of model,, forms the method for specification framework plane according to the specification of the clothes of the planar structure of the structural plan figure of the clothes of Fig. 3, table 2.
2) the structural plan Figure 51 and 54 with Fig. 4 is an example, illustrates on the specification framework plane, according to the style shape moulding performance of clothes, the shape of clothes; Carry out the pattern design drafting method of pattern tissue (formation profile diagram).
(3) owing to the present invention relates to an apparel pattern design drafting method, for the ease of understanding and difference to schematic diagram:
The bisector of Fig. 1 adds 2 before numbering; The structure line adds 3 before numbering; The position point of Fig. 2, the numbering at position; The numbering of position computing formula, design formula and position point decomposition formula; Continue to use the numbering of the position point among " the dress planar drafting method and the dress form figure thereof " of inventor invention and the numbering at position; The province of Fig. 2 and rivel add 4 in the numbering front; The step among formation pattern tissue profile Figure 54 on male trousers specification framework plane Figure 51 of Fig. 4 adds 5 before numbering; On Fig. 5,6,7 dress form figure, the relation of the graphics shape and the position point decomposition formula of apparel construction plane is described: and form step in the specification framework plane 615 at number type structural plan Figure 61, before numbering, add 6.
Gauge type and the specification shelves difference of Fig. 3 male trousers series pattern anter structural plan figure are as shown in table 1:
Table 1: unit: CM; Hip circumference: H; Waistline: W (trousers length comprises waist position 4CM)
The position Hip circumference Waistline Straight shelves are dark Trousers length The bottom of s trouser leg is wide
The gauge type 108 27 104 23
The specification shelves differ from 1 4 4 1 2 0.5
The specification shelves differ from 2 4 4 1 0 0.5
There are two groups of specification shelves poor in the table 1, illustrate at same position or the position point, have two groups of position design formulas or position point decomposition formula selective; And have two groups of shelves difference type cards (1) and (2) selective as Fig. 5 illustraton of model schematic diagram at same position point.
Specification is not put at the waistline position, is when the male trousers designing and mapping, selects waist size according to the specification of male trousers.
Clothing specification as table 1 and table 2: the gauge type is meant the size at each position of clothes; The specification shelves are poor: with reference to men and women's body model type series control numerical tabular, be meant the relative size that the specification stepping differs in each position of clothes.The of the present invention type for convenience of explanation, is meant the quantity of enclosing of the size of decision clothes, and as above dress is chest measurement B, and following dress is hip circumference H.
And actually, number type of clothes (clothes number and type) is decided by the specification of designed clothes.
Table 2: unit: CM hip circumference: H; Waistline: W (trousers length comprises waist position 4CM)
The position Hip circumference Waistline Straight shelves are dark Trousers length The bottom of s trouser leg is wide
The gauge type 104 72 25 103 22
The specification shelves differ from 2 4 4 1 0 0.5
Supposing the gauge type of table 2, is the style shape moulding performance according to this male trousers, thinks what the most suitable back was determined.
Suppose the gauge type of table 1 and specification shelves differ from 1 for the intermediate specification type and the specification shelves of the standard figure of this series style male trousers poor; The male trousers specification of table 2 is embodiments of the invention: as Fig. 5, it differs from the gauge type of table 1 and specification shelves on structural plan Figure 61 of 1, can be the part wherein of structural plan figure, also can be the whole of it.
The apparel pattern design drafting method that the present invention is undertaken by a kind of planar structure of structural plan comprises following step:
(1) the apparel construction plane of XOY geometrical plane etc. is set respectively on the apparel construction plane:
1) as the XOY geometrical plane of Fig. 1, the XOY geometrical plane is set on the apparel construction plane:
For example: as the male trousers cutting schematic diagram of Fig. 4, on the figure of structural plan, thigh line 18 is set is X-axis, preceding crease line 19 is a Y-axis, and intersection point is the XOY geometrical plane of O.Theoretical foundation wherein of the present invention, when apparel pattern design is charted, the parametric equation principle of applicable line; The position of point on the XOY of apparel construction plane geometrical plane on calculating and analysis portion site, the structure line; Designing and mapping with the style of carrying out pattern tissue, shelves difference and number type.
For example, decomposition formula being put at the position is expressed as: when X=adjusted value+ratio * number type and Y=adjusted value+ratio * number type; It is the parametric equation of one group of straight line; On the XOY geometrical plane, show as straight line; The principle of the parametric equation of root a tree name straight line:
For example reference: volumes such as old logical prosperous Liu Jia a kind of jade; The mathematics include file; Beijing: Mapping Press; 1982 (1037 pages)
A. adjusted value: this straight line is through adjusted value point (P 1: X 1, Y 1);
B. ratio: the slope of this straight line is ratio/ratio (B/A);
C. number type: (eigen calculates to draw on plane according to position point decomposition formula and obtains number type point on this straight line; Please refer to " dress planar drafting method and dress form figure thereof ", as number type scale 108 positions on number type card; 21 pages).
For example, be example with the preceding crotch waist site 1 of the illustraton of model of Fig. 5 and preceding crotch foot site 9, the parametric equation principle of the applicable line in the apparel pattern design drafting method is described; Fig. 5 for example, on the XOY of illustraton of model geometrical plane figure:
The position decomposition formula in preceding crotch waist site 1: X=-(1/10H-0.3) and Y=1/4H; On the XOY geometrical plane figure of the illustraton of model of Fig. 5, show as straight line; This straight line is exactly number type card (or number molded lines) in preceding crotch waist site 1.
A. number type card (this straight line) can moving with the position of (process) preceding crotch waist site 1 and 52 (Fig. 4);
B. number type card (this straight line) in proportion/ratio is categorized as a shelves difference type card; For example, the shelves difference type card in preceding crotch foot site 9 has two groups (1) and (2); Can in shelves difference type card, the shelves difference according to clothes select shelves difference type card (1) or (2);
C. number type is on number type card (this straight line); For example, number type scale 104 (Fig. 5) of number type 104 on number type card.
2) as the position point of Fig. 2, the position point is set on the apparel construction plane:
A. on the apparel construction plane, a group or more position point decomposition formula is arranged on each position point:
For example, as preceding crotch waist site 1 decomposition formula of Fig. 4 male trousers cutting schematic diagram etc.;
B. on the apparel construction plane, the position of position point is according to the style shape moulding performance folding and unfolding of build, clothes or when selecting; On the position of point, folding and unfolding or select identical size thereupon:
For example: the preceding crotch waist site 1 of Fig. 4 tailoring schematic diagram, narrow behind the 1CM position 52 at structural plan Figure 51:
X=-{[1/10H (104)-0.3]-1}=-9.1 (Y=25: the straight dark 25CM of crotch is omitted)
In the formula: [1/10H (104)-0.3] are the position in preceding crotch waist site 1, and-1 for narrowing the size of 1CM.
C. the position of position point is subjected to the specification limits of clothes; When on the apparel construction plane, province and rivel being set, the folding and unfolding or select identical province and the rivel amount thereupon of the position of position point.
For example, Fig. 4 male trousers cutting schematic diagram according to the wide position 11 of Attacking Midfielder on present structural plan Figure 51 of style shape form watch of male trousers, is provided with and economizes 41 for 3CM, when rivel 42 is 5CM;
Attacking Midfielder wide 11 specification length: 1/4W (72)-1=17CM:
For example: province's amount 41 is set is 5CM for 3CM, rivel amount 42; After the position point relaxes or selects 8CM:
Attacking Midfielder wide 11 length=[1/4W (72)-1]+province amount 3CM+ rivel amount 5CM=25CM
Position point as Fig. 2: preceding crotch waist site 1; Abjugal suture waist site 2; Preceding crotch buttocks site 3; Abjugal suture buttocks site 4; Preceding crotch crotch position point 5; Abjugal suture crotch position point 6; Preceding crotch knee site 7; Abjugal suture knee site 8; Preceding crotch foot site 9; Abjugal suture foot site 10.
3) as the position of Fig. 2, the position is set on the apparel construction plane:
A. the length at the position of pattern tissue is subjected to the specification limits of clothes; The folding and unfolding or select identical size thereupon of the length at position:
With Fig. 4 male trousers tailoring schematic diagram is example: Attacking Midfielder wide 11 specification length: 1/4W (72)-1=17CM is provided with province's amount 41 (serving as the hypothesis example) at wide 11 positions of Attacking Midfielder be after 3CM, rivel amount 42 (serving as the hypothesis example) are 5CM:
The position of wide 11 length of Attacking Midfielder=[1/4W (72)-1]+province amount 3CM+ rivel amount 5CM=25CM chest measurement and hip circumference determines number type (type) position of these clothes:
The hip circumference position of following dress: as when the preceding hip breadth position 25CM of anter: 1/4H-1; Number type H (type) is 104CM.
B. there is one group of position computing formula at each position:
For example: the wide 13=forward foot in a step of the forward foot in a step is wide by-2
C. there is a group or more position design formula at each position: ratio * number type+adjusted value.
Trousers length position 16 (1) design formulas; The specification shelves differ from 1, trousers length crotch difference 2CM:1/2H+46
Trousers length position 16 (2) design formulas; The specification shelves differ from 2, trousers length crotch difference 0:100 (trousers length fixes 100)
The position of other face or line is as newborn chest position, bottom of s trouser leg position etc.; The wide position 11 of Attacking Midfielder, straight position, crotch deep 14 etc.;
Position as Fig. 2: the wide position 11 of Attacking Midfielder; Preceding hip breadth position 12; The wide position 13 of the forward foot in a step; Straight crotch dark 14; Preceding crotch is chewed wide position 15; Trousers length 15.
4) as the bisector of Fig. 1, on the apparel construction plane, bisector is set;
The variation of the style shape of pattern tissue planar graph, shelves differences what and number type size, all the five equilibrium according to bisector changes; With design formula together, calculate and the position decomposition formula in determination portion site:
The preceding bottom of s trouser leg wide 13 and preceding crotch pin point 9 with Fig. 4 male trousers cutting schematic diagram are example:
Preceding wide 13 design formulas of the bottom of s trouser leg: 1/8H+7.5; Bisector 23 is for halving:
A. the style change of shape of pattern tissue planar graph:
As the wide 13=1/8H of the preceding bottom of s trouser leg (104)+7.5=20.5
Preceding crotch pin point 9 is to distance=[1/8H (104)+the 7.5]/2=10.25 of preceding crease line 19
B. how many differing of the 1CM type of the shelves difference of pattern tissue planar graph changes: as number type 104 and number type 105,
(A) the 1CM type of the wide shelves difference in the position of the forward foot in a step wide 13 differ 0.125CM (1/8):
The wide 13=[1/8H of the forward foot in a step (105)+7.5]-[1/8H (104)+7.5]-20.625-20.5=0.125 (1/8)
(B) the preceding crotch pin position point position shelves difference of putting 9 position points differs 0.0625CM (1/16):
Preceding crotch pin point 9:X=[1/16H (105)+3.75]-[1/16H (104)+3.75]=10.3 125-10.25=0.0625 (1/16)
C. the variation of number type size of pattern tissue planar graph: as the variation of the size of number type 104 and number type 108:
The position of preceding crotch pin point 9: X=-[1/16H (104)+3.75]-10.25; X=-[1/16H (108)+3.75]=10.5
D. with design formula together, calculate and the position decomposition formula in determination portion site:
Wide by 13 (the 1/8H+7.5)/2=-of X computing formula=preceding bottom of s trouser leg (1/16H+3.75) in preceding crotch foot site 9 decomposition formulas
In the formula :-be the position on XOY plane, (1/8H+7.5) be wide 13 design formulas of the forward foot in a step, 2 for halving.
As the bisector of Fig. 1, other bisector: crotch bisector 25 during the wide bisector 21 of preceding thigh, preceding knee bit wide bisector 22, the wide bisector 23 of the preceding bottom of s trouser leg, front rise are dark 24, preceding.
5) as the position of Fig. 2, the position computing formula is set on the apparel construction plane:
Calculate the length at each position of the style of pattern tissue according to the specification of clothes:
For example: the wide 13 position computing formula of the forward foot in a step of Fig. 4 tailoring schematic diagram: the trousers bottom of s trouser leg is loose by-2;
When the bottom of s trouser leg wide=during 22CM (bottom of s trouser leg of table 2 is wide), the wide 13=bottom of s trouser leg of the preceding bottom of s trouser leg is wide-2=20CM
As the position of Fig. 2, other position computing formula: the wide position 11:1/4W+ of Attacking Midfielder economizes pleat-1; Preceding hip breadth position 12:1/4H-1; The preceding wide position 13 of the bottom of s trouser leg: the forward foot in a step is wide by-2; Straight crotch deep position 14:1/4H; Preceding crotch is chewed wide position 15:1/20H-1; Trousers length position 16: trousers length 104-4 (waist position 4CM)=100.
6) as the position of Fig. 2, the position design formula is set on the apparel construction plane:
How much poor the length and the shelves that calculate this position according to the specification of clothes are; Size with what and number type of the shape of the style of decision apparel construction plane (pattern tissue) figure, shelves difference.Wherein, the style span access location length at adjustment calculation and definite position; Number type calculates and determines number type span access location length at position; Ratio is calculated and is determined how many shelves differences of the 1CM type at position differs:
With the wide position 13 of the preceding bottom of s trouser leg of Fig. 4 male trousers cutting schematic diagram is example: the wide position of the forward foot in a step 13 design formulas=1/8H+7.5
(A) the style span access location length at adjustment calculation and definite position:
As the style span access location length when adjusted value is 7.5: 1/8H (104)+7.5=20.5 (number type H of Fig. 4 is 104)
(B) number type calculates and definite number type span access location length:
As the style span access location length when number type is 108: 1/8H (108)+7.5=21
(C) ratio is calculated and is determined that how much poor the shelves that differ of 1CM type are:
As when number type be 105 and the shelves that differ when being 104 of number type poor:
Shelves poor=[1/8H (105)+7.5]-[1/8H (104)+7.5] that differ=-20.625-20.5=0.125 (1/8)
(2) and bisector calculate together and determination portion site decomposition formula: ratio * number type+adjusted value;
For example: to calculate and to determine that the lateral calculations formula X that preceding crotch pin is put 9 position decomposition formulas is an example: preceding crotch pin is put the X computing formula of 9 position decomposition formulas: X=-[(1/8H+7.5)/2]=-(1/16H+3.75).In the formula: so-position that is; 2 is the bisection of the wide bisector 23 of the preceding bottom of s trouser leg; (1/8H+7.5) be the wide position of the preceding bottom of s trouser leg 13 design formulas.
As the position of Fig. 2, other position design formula: the wide position 11=1/4H-1 of Attacking Midfielder; Preceding hip breadth position 12=1/4H-1; The wide position 13=1/8H+7.5 of the forward foot in a step; Straight crotch deep position 14=1/4H; Before chew wide position 15=1/20H-1 (fixing); (the specification shelves differ from 1 to trousers length position 16 (1)=1/2H+46: trousers length crotch difference 2CM); Trousers length position 16 (2)=100 (the specification shelves differ from 2: the trousers length crotch differs from 0).
7) as the position point of Fig. 2, position point position decomposition formula is set on the apparel construction plane:
Calculate each position point of pattern tissue, the position of point on the XOY of structural plan figure geometrical plane on the structure line according to the specification of clothes; Size with what and number type of the shape of the style of decision apparel construction plane (pattern tissue) figure, shelves difference.Wherein, the style position point of adjustment calculation and definite pattern tissue, the position of point on the apparel construction plane on the structure line; Number type calculates and determines number type position point of pattern tissue, the position of point on the apparel construction plane on the structure line; Ratio is calculated and is determined how many 1CM type shelves differences of the point on pattern tissue position point, the structure line differs:
For example: the preceding crotch foot site 1 with Fig. 5 male trousers illustraton of model is the example explanation:
Preceding crotch waist site 1 decomposition formula: X=-(1/10H-0.3) and Y=1/4H+0; H=104CM
(A) position 62 (position of number type scale 104) of point on the XOY of structural plan figure geometrical plane on adjustment calculation and definite pattern tissue style position point, the structure line; The lateral dimension data are 10.1, the longitudinal size data are 26:
X=-[1/10H (104)-0.3]=-10.1 and Y=1/4H+0=26
(B) number type calculate and determine pattern tissue number pattern sample position point, the point on the structure line in the position 65 on the XOY of the structural plan figure geometrical plane: for example: when number type H is 108, calculate determine number type H108 style position point number type structural plan Figure 61 on position 65 (position of number type scale 108); Lateral attitude 75 is 10.5, lengthwise position is 27:
X=-[1/10H (108)-0.3]=-10.5 and Y=1/4H (108)+0=27
(C) ratio is calculated and is determined how many shelves differences of the position point of pattern tissue, the some 1CM type on the structure line differs:
For example: the 1CM type laterally a shelves difference 63 be 1/10 and the 1CM type vertically shelves difference 64 be 1/4CM; As when H=105 and the H=104, its 1CM type is the vertical shelves difference 1/4CM of shelves difference 1/10 and 1CM type laterally:
1CM type laterally shelves difference 63 is 1/10CM={-[1/10H (105)-0.3] }-{ (1/10H (104)-0.3) }
1CM type vertically shelves difference 64 is 1/4CM=[1/4H (105)+0]-[1/4H (104)+0]
As the position point of Fig. 2, other position point decomposition formula: preceding crotch waist site 1:X=-(1/10H-0.3) and Y=1/4H: abjugal suture waist site 2:X=3/20H-1 and Y=1/4H; Preceding crotch buttocks site 3:X=-(1/10H-0.3) and Y=1/12H; Abjugal suture buttocks site 4:X=3/20H-1 and Y=1/12H; Preceding crotch crotch position point 5:X=-(3H/20-1.3) and Y=0; Abjugal suture crotch position point 6:X=3H/20-1.3 and and Y=0.
When the specification crotch differs from 1: during trousers length crotch difference 2CM: preceding crotch knee site 7:X=-(17/160H+1.525) and Y=-(1/12H+23); Abjugal suture knee site 8: X=17/160H+1.525 and Y=-(1/12H+23); Preceding site 9:X=-of crotch foot (1/16H+3.75) and Y=-(1/4H+46); Site 10:X=1/16H+3.75 of abjugal suture foot and Y=-(1/4H+46)
When the specification shelves differ from 2: when the trousers length crotch differs from 0: preceding crotch knee point 7:X=-(17/160H+1.525) and Y=1/6H-50; Abjugal suture knee point 8:X=17/160H+1.525 and Y=1/6H-50; Preceding crotch pin point 9:X=-(1/16H+3.75) and Y=1/4H-100; Abjugal suture pin point 10:X=1/16H+3.75 and Y=1/4H-100.
8) as province and the rivel of Fig. 2, province and rivel are set on the apparel construction plane:
Style shape moulding according to clothes on the apparel construction plane shows province and the rivel that is provided with, and the position of corresponding site point, the length of corresponding site are subjected to the specification limits of clothes; Point on the structure line is unrestricted; Irrelevant with the shelves difference and number type of clothes.
For example Fig. 4 is provided with on male trousers cutting schematic diagram economizes 41 the province amount 3CM and the rivel amount 5CM of rivel 42:
Corresponding position point position: relax 8CM to the position of abjugal suture position point 2 as preceding crotch waist site 52;
Corresponding span access location length: relax or selects as Attacking Midfielder wide 11: 3+ rivel amount 5=25CM measures in [1/4W (72)-1]+province
Because the structure line comprises the position point at two ends; When province and rivel were set, the position of corresponding position point was adjusted and when mobile thereupon, and the point on the structure line is own simultaneously to be moved through the position adjustment of position point thereupon; So, as the wide setting of Attacking Midfielder economize the rivel amount 51CM of 41 province amount 3CM and rivel 42 time; Preceding crotch waist site 1 and structure line 34 are adjusted thereupon and are moved; Narrow on the point 53 on structure line 34 or when selecting 1CM, be on point 53, to narrow or select 1CM, be not subjected to the specification limits of clothes.
Simultaneously, as wide 11 positions of the Attacking Midfielder of Fig. 4: 1/4H W (72)-1={[1/4H (104)-1]-8}=17; When relaxing 8CM, { [1/4H (104)-1]-8}+8=25; Because ratio 1/4 and number type H (104) in the formula are constant, be adjusted value-1-8+8 (relaxing 8CM); So, have nothing to do with ratio 1/4 and number type H, be not subjected to the specification limits of clothes.
9) as structure line and the suture of Fig. 1, structure line and suture are set on the apparel construction plane:
A. all there is a group or more position point decomposition formula the position of the every bit on the structure line:
For example: as Fig. 4, there are two groups of position point decomposition formulas in the preceding crotch knee site 7 on the preceding crotch structure line 34: the design formula of being chewed wide by 15, the wide position 13 of the forward foot in a step, trousers length position 16 etc. by the bisector of this point and preceding hip breadth position 12, preceding crotch is calculated; Simultaneously, can form number type figure, number type card of point by the adjusted value in the decomposition formula of this point, ratio and number type.
B. the position folding and unfolding of the point on the structure line or when selecting; On the position of point, folding and unfolding or select identical adjusted value size:
C. the position of the point on the structure line is as being provided with province and rivel, folding and unfolding or when selecting, not being subjected to the specification limits of clothes;
D. the position of the point on the structure line, after the style shape moulding folding and unfolding of build, clothes or selecting, the outline line of formation.
Because the drawing of the pattern design of pattern tissue is the style shape moulding performance according to build, clothes, calculate and analyze in the position of the point of structural plan figure progressively the size of folding and unfolding what; Rather than the position of calculation level on the curved surface of human body appearance:
(A) pattern design of pattern tissue drawing is the style shape moulding performance according to clothes; Analyze and calculate the position of point on the figure of structural plan on each position point, the structure line; Rather than analyze and the position of calculating on build appearance curved surface:
A) form by garment piece owing to clothes; The change of shape of garment piece is with the basis that is shaped as of build, with the foundation that is shaped as of clothes; The shape of decision garment piece figure is the structure line (province and the rivel that contain position point, setting) of garment piece upper periphery; The shape difference of garment piece, the style shape moulding performance of the clothes of composition is different.Simultaneously, the unstability of clothes, ornamental, one of effect of the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue is the style appearance moulding performance with clothes, the blemish in an otherwise perfect thing of replenishing build appearance curve form;
B) on the position of the every bit on the structure line (province and the rivel that contain position point, setting) of garment piece (apparel construction plane), how many differences of the size of folding and unfolding or selection; With relatively in the position (part of garment piece or the integral body of garment piece) of the part of the apparent clothes of build or the space that forms, whole position (integral body of clothes) different, the three-dimensional shape difference of the clothes appearance of formation; Local or the whole style shape moulding performance of the clothes of being made up of garment piece is different.
(B) so, when the application of reality:
Because the structure line is made up of unlimited point; It comprises the economizing a little and rivel point, provincial highway of position point, setting at its itself and two ends; Line for decision apparel construction plane graphics shape; So, when the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue, be not that the position of each point all shows folding and unfolding or selection according to the style shape moulding of clothes; But be the foundation of the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue with the position point; Point on the structure line is the point of selecting selectively wherein, to carry out the style shape shape-designing drawing of pattern tissue; The point of other on the structure line is by the approximate method that connects, to form the outline line of pattern tissue.
For example, on Fig. 4 male trousers cutting schematic diagram, being example:
The position point: as crotch waist site 1 before selecting;
The structure line: as the position of the point 53 on the crotch structure line 34 is an example with the position of the point 55 on the outline line 54 before selecting: be the point on structure line 34, select point 53 wherein, narrow behind the 1CM after the size point 55 on the formation outline line 54.
The outline line drawing of the point that other on the outline line is continuous is to finish by the approximate mode that connects:
For example, male trousers pattern outline line 54 forms outline line 54 through putting 55 approximate connections.
The structure line comprises as Fig. 1: abjugal suture structure line 31, the wide structure line 32 of Attacking Midfielder, preceding bottom of s trouser leg structure line 33, preceding crotch structure line 34, position point 35, provincial highway 36.
Suture (is the example explanation with identical structure line): as abjugal suture structure line (suture) 31, the wide structure line of Attacking Midfielder (suture) 32, preceding crotch structure line (suture) 34, provincial highway (suture) 36.
Since the position of the point on the suture, the difference of the position at relative clothes place, build, function, technology, moulding; So sutural length shortens relatively or extends; For example: the crop suture and the sutural length of back porch that go up dress.
(2) carry out style, shelves difference and number type designing and mapping of pattern tissue then according to the planar structure of the apparel construction plane of a kind of XOY of setting geometrical plane etc.:
With planar structure according to Fig. 3 male trousers structure structure chart that XOY geometrical plane etc. is set; With the style of carrying out the male trousers pattern according to the specification of table 2, shelves differences and number type designing and mapping be the example explanation:
1) poor according to the shelves of clothes, select the identical ratio of position shelves difference with clothes; To carry out the shelves difference drawing of pattern tissue:
A. at first explanation: owing to determine to calculate and the position shelves of the pattern tissue poor quantity of pattern tissue (the position shelves of clothes are poor /) by the position shelves difference of clothes; By the position shelves difference of pattern tissue calculate and definite position design formula in ratio and position design formula: calculate and bisector by ratio in the design formula of position and position design formula, calculate and determination portion site decomposition formula in ratio and position point decomposition formula; Simultaneously, because in " dress planar drafting method and dress form figure thereof ", with the result of calculation formation shelves difference type card of the ratio in position design formula and the position point decomposition formula; In the shelves difference type card on illustraton of model, select the shelves difference type card identical poor with the shelves of selecting pattern tissue with position shelves difference.So, poor according to the specification shelves of clothes, be in fact in the computing formula of calculating part site decomposition formula and ratio thereof, select the position shelves of clothes poor, with selection percentage and position point decomposition formula; Or select grade difference type card that forms by this ratio; To carry out the shelves difference drawing of pattern tissue:
For example, for convenience of explanation, with the calculating part site decomposition formula of the horizontal X in male trousers leg opening position shelves difference and preceding crotch waist site 9 decomposition formulas and the computing formula of ratio (vertically the Y computing formula is omitted) thereof be the example explanation: select identical grade poor of position shelves difference with clothes, with selection percentage and position point decomposition formula; To carry out the shelves difference drawing of pattern tissue:
Before horizontal X computing formula in crotch waist site 9 decomposition formulas, also be the distance of preceding crotch foot site 9 to Y-axis.
(A) determine that by the position shelves difference of clothes the position shelves of calculating and pattern tissue are poor:
Male trousers specification as table 2: because the shelves at the wide position 13 of the bottom of s trouser leg are poor: 0.5CM (male trousers pattern):
So, the shelves poor=0.5CM * 2 slice=1CM at male trousers leg opening position (two of the pattern front and back of male trousers)
(B) by the position shelves difference calculating of pattern tissue and ratio and the position design formula in the design formula of definite position:
Calculate the formula (with reference to " dress planar drafting method and dress form figure thereof ") of the ratio in the design formula of position:
The position shelves of the ratio=pattern tissue in the design formula of position are poor/and parameter hip circumference shelves differ from 4
In the formula, the position shelves difference of pattern tissue is the position shelves of the corresponding pattern tissue in the clothing specification shelves poor (as table 1 and table 2) poor the quantity of pattern tissue (the position shelves of clothes are poor /); 4 is the specification stepping 4CM of parameter hip circumference.
A) for example: leg opening position shelves are poor: the 1CM substitution; In the 13 position design formulas of the preceding wide position of the bottom of s trouser leg
Ratio=1 (leg opening position shelves are poor)/2 (totally 2 of Western-style trousers pattern anter, rear panels)/hip circumference shelves difference 4=1/8
B) because: calculate the formula of cloth part design formula=(the position shelves of pattern tissue poor/parameter hip circumference shelves differ from 4) * H+ (the position shelves of the wide span access location length-pattern tissue of the bottom of s trouser leg are poor/parameter hip circumference shelves differ from 4 * H): so:
Calculate the formula of cloth part design formula=(the position shelves of pattern tissue poor/parameter hip circumference shelves differ from 4) * H+ adjusted value
Shelves difference with leg opening is that the 1CM and the preceding bottom of s trouser leg wide 13 are the 21CM substitution: wide 13 design formulas of the preceding bottom of s trouser leg=1/8H+7.5
In the formula: (the position shelves of pattern tissue poor/parameter hip circumference shelves differ from 4) are ratio; The H number of being type 108; [the wide span access location length of the bottom of s trouser leg-(the position shelves of pattern tissue are poor/and parameter hip circumference shelves differ from 4 * H)] be adjusted value; The wide span access location length of the bottom of s trouser leg is 23-2=21.
(C) calculate and bisector ratio and position point decomposition formula in calculating and the determination portion site decomposition formula by ratio in the design formula of position and position design formula; So:
A) formula of the ratio in the calculating part site decomposition formula (X computing formula):
The position shelves of ratio=pattern tissue are poor/and parameter hip circumference shelves differ from (or the calculating of the position of position point relatively of 4/ five equilibrium; Crotch waist site 1 decomposition formula before the calculating in " dress planar drafting method and dress form figure thereof " for example)
For example: with shelves poor=1 and the five equilibrium=2 substitution formula of male trousers leg opening:
Ratio=[1 (the position shelves are poor)/2 (totally 2 of pattern anter, rear panels)/hip circumference shelves differ from 4]/2 (bisection)=1/16
B) formula of calculating part site decomposition formula (X computing formula):
=[(the position shelves of pattern tissue poor/parameter hip circumference shelves differ from 4) * H]+adjusted value] }/2 (bisections)
In the formula, (the position shelves of pattern tissue poor/parameter hip circumference shelves differ from 4) * H] in adjusted value for calculating the formula of cloth part design formula; 2 is the bisection of the bisector of the preceding bottom of s trouser leg wide 13; X in the position point decomposition formula and Y computing formula+with-, decide by the position on the XOY geometrical plane.
As the X computing formula of preceding crotch foot site 9 decomposition formulas, with the wide shelves difference of enclosing the position of the bottom of s trouser leg during for the 1CM substitution:
The X computing formula of preceding crotch foot site 9 decomposition formulas=-{ [(1/8H)+(7.5)]/2}=-(1/16 H+3.75)
So, as above-mentioned example: the shelves difference drawing of pattern tissue, poor according to the specification shelves of clothes, as leg opening position shelves difference 1CM (the wide shelves difference of bottom of s trouser leg 0.5CM * 2) according to table 2; In the computing formula of calculating part site decomposition formula and ratio thereof, select male trousers leg opening position shelves difference 1CM; With selection percentage 1/16 and position point decomposition formula 1/16H+3.75; Poor with the shelves that carry out pattern tissue: as leg opening position shelves difference is the drawing of 1CM.
B. poor with specification shelves then according to table 2, as select the trousers length shelves difference identical with the wide shelves difference of the bottom of s trouser leg with male trousers position trousers length shelves difference be 0 and the wide shelves difference of the bottom of s trouser leg be that the identical position shelves difference of 0.5CM is an example; Explanation is poor according to the specification shelves of clothes, selects the shelves identical with the position shelves difference of clothes poor; To carry out the shelves difference drawing of pattern tissue:
As introduce introduction before the specific embodiment, with number type structural plan Figure 61 and the specification framework plane 615 on Fig. 5,6,7 illustratons of model, the method for formation specification framework plane be described; So:
Please refer to the illustraton of model of Fig. 5 and its number type 104 structural plan Figure 61:
As Fig. 5, on the plane that the XOY geometrical plane is set, calculate the position of each the position point on the Figure 61 of structural plan:
(A) poor according to the specification shelves of clothes: according to the position shelves difference selection percentage and the position point decomposition formula of clothes; Poor with the shelves of selecting clothes:
For example, the position point decomposition formula with the position in crotch foot site 9 before the selection calculating is the example explanation:
(B) when the specification shelves of table 2 poor: the shelves difference that trousers length shelves difference is 0, the bottom of s trouser leg is wide is during for 0.5CM (leg opening position shelves difference is 1CM): select and the identical position point decomposition formula of preceding crotch foot's site 9 position shelves differences:
As in position decomposition point formula is set, introducing; There are two groups of position point decomposition formulas in preceding crotch foot site 9:
A) trousers length crotch difference is that the wide shelves difference of 2CM, the bottom of s trouser leg is the position point decomposition formula of 0.5CM:
Preceding crotch foot site 9 decomposition formulas: X=-(1/16H+3.75) and Y=-(1/4H+46)
B) the shelves difference that trousers length crotch difference is 0, the bottom of s trouser leg is wide is the position point decomposition formula of 0.5CM:
Preceding crotch foot site 9 decomposition formulas: X=-(1/16H+3.75) and Y=1/4H-100
The shelves difference of (C) select to be 0 with trousers length shelves difference, the bottom of s trouser leg is wide is identical preceding crotch foot site 9 decomposition formulas of 0.5CM:
X=-(1/16H+3.75) and Y=1/4H-100
2) according to the style shape moulding of clothes, appropriateness is selected the quantity of margin of suitable clothes, to determine number type of single-piece clothes:
The actual measurement of people's build is enclosed (be contained on the clothes and measure) and is fixed; But, the quantity of margin difference of garment size, the style shape moulding of clothes (number types of single-piece clothes) performance is different.Select the quantity of margin of garment size according to the style shape moulding performance (as loose and narrow) of clothes; Be to place in the actual measurement of build, the quantity of margin of clothes is progressively from narrow to wide the time, and with the mutual variation relation of the style shape moulding performance of clothes, what of suitable clothes quantity of margin are appropriateness select; To determine number type of clothes.
For example, be the example explanation with the quantity of margin of definite single-piece male trousers and number type of single-piece male trousers:
The actual measurement hip circumference of supposing the build of male trousers is 90CM, and the range of choice of the quantity of margin of male trousers is between 4---24CM; For example in imagination neutralization according to experience, think that the shape moulding (width) of quantity of margin 14CM style of this male trousers is the most suitable:
So between 4---24CM, appropriateness is selected the quantity of margin 14CM of male trousers, number type of male trousers is 90+14=104CM.
3) according to number type of clothes, select number type identical with number type of clothes; To carry out number type drawing of pattern tissue:
A. at first explanation: number type at the position of number type of clothes, the code of monitored location type of clothes, pattern tissue, number type of position point are identical with number type in position design formula and the position point decomposition formula; Simultaneously, because in " dress planar drafting method and dress form figure thereof ", with number type result of calculation the formations type card in the position point decomposition formula: the selection number type scale identical on number type card with number type of clothes, with number type of selection pattern tissue; So number type drawing of pattern tissue is selected number type identical with number type of clothes: be number type position point identical with the code of monitored location type of clothes in the decomposition formula of selection portion site; Or number type scale on number type card of selecting to form by this number type; Connect formation type structural plan figure, to carry out number type drawing of pattern tissue:
For example: with number type 104 of male trousers and number type 104 in 9 decomposition formulas of preceding crotch waist site is the example explanation, and number type 104 of male trousers is identical with number type 104 in the position point formula.
Please refer to the illustraton of model of Fig. 5 and it and number type 104 structural plan Figure 61:
On the illustraton of model of Fig. 5, when number type that carries out male trousers is the male trousers pattern drawing of 104CM,, be similarly 104CM (as number type scale 104 on number type card in preceding crotch waist site 1) as number type H in 9 decomposition formulas of preceding crotch waist site.
B. explanation then; According to number type of clothes, number type identical in the decomposition formula of selection portion site: formation type structural plan figure with number type of clothes; To carry out number type drawing of pattern tissue:
For example, with the specification of option table 2: hip circumference 104CM, just number type H=104 is the example explanation: the specification of selecting clothes: number type 104 positions point; Chart with number type 104 that carries out pattern tissue:
A) for example, position on the figure XOY geometry of the structural plan of Fig. 5, preceding crotch foot site 9:
X=-[1/16H (104)+3.75]=-10.25CM and Y=1/4H (104)-100=-74CM
B) connect the position of each position point as Fig. 5; Form the gauge type of table 1: the specification shelves of number type 104, table 2 are poor: shelves differ from structural plan Figure 61 of 2;
4) according to the style shape moulding performance of build, clothes, selection shows identical adjusted value with the style shape moulding of build, clothes; To carry out the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue:
1, on number type structural plan figure,, form the specification framework plane according to the gauge type of clothes:
When the gauge type of the gauge type of clothes and structural plan figure not simultaneously; On number type structural plan figure, adjust (folding and unfolding) or select the position of the adjusted value of each position point according to the gauge type of clothes; Form the specification framework plane.
Because structural plan Figure 61 of Fig. 5 is the gauge type according to table 1: the specification shelves of number type 104, table 2 differ from 2 structural plan figure that form, so-called normal type; When for example calculating according to the clothing specification type of table 1, straight crotch is dark=1/4H (104)=26CM.But, as table 2 the gauge type: dark (Y)=25 of straight crotch; So, also need according to the gauge type of table 2, to form the specification framework plane 615 of table 2 at the structural plan of Fig. 5 Figure 61; And, the specification framework plane 615 that on the Figure 61 of structural plan, forms, the branch cloth cover on the Figure 61 of structural plan can be the whole of it, also can be its part.
As the introduction before introducing the specific embodiment,, the method that forms the specification framework plane is described with number type structural plan Figure 61 and the specification framework plane 615 on Fig. 5,6,7 illustratons of model; So:
Please refer to Fig. 6,7 illustraton of model and its number type 104 structural plan Figure 61 and table 2 specification framework plane 615:
On number type 104 structural plan Figure 61 in Fig. 6 tailoring schematic diagram:
A) for example, as the dark 25CM of straight crotch of the male trousers gauge type of table 2:
Receive weak point or select straight crotch to be the position 66 of 25CM deeply, and put on mark 67 (straight crotch is dark) with horizontal line;
Receive weak point or select straight crotch to be the position 68 of (25CM)/3 deeply, and put on mark 69 (hip circumference is dark) with horizontal line;
B) for example, as the male trousers trousers length 103CM of table 2 (99CM, waist position 4CM is meter in addition):
Lengthen or select the position 610 of trousers length 99 (waist position 4CMM in addition meter)-straight dark 25CM=74 of crotch (trousers length lengthen 1CM), and put on mark 611 (trousers length) with horizontal line:
Lengthen or select the position 612 of 0.5CM (relatively trousers length lengthen 1CM/2), put on mark 613 (knee position) with horizontal line.
As according to the style shape moulding of male trousers performance, as the style shape shape-designing drawing of straight tube, loudspeaker pattern, on the position of knee position horizontal line 613, can folding and unfolding or selection up and down on horizontal line 613, but do not belong to the example content of present embodiment.
C) for example, as the wide 22CM of the bottom of s trouser leg of table 2:
Before narrowing or selecting crotch foot site 9 to crease line 19 apart from the wide 22-2 of the bottom of s trouser leg before the 10CM[()/2] position 614, put on mark 614.
D), connect corresponding position point as on Fig. 7 illustraton of model; Forming specification is the specification framework plane 615 of table 2.
Because, as the style shape moulding performance of the male trousers of the gauge type of table 2, think the decision of the most suitable back:
So when the application of reality, the experience raising along with the designer has formed a specification framework plane in the order of designer's heart; The designer is directly on number position of the position point of type structural plan figure: according to the gauge type of clothes, adjust or select identical with it size, form the specification framework plane; Or on the position of position point: according to the style shape moulding performance of clothes, adjust or select identical with it size, form the specification framework plane; Gauge type with the decision clothes.
A, for example, with the X computing formula of preceding crotch foot site 9 decomposition formulas of Fig. 5=-(1/16H+3.75) be the example explanation:
B, when H=104, preceding crotch foot site 9 to the distance of Y-axis=-[1/16H (104)+3.75]=-10.25
C, as Fig. 6, according to the gauge type of table 2, when the wide 22CM of the bottom of s trouser leg:
Preceding crotch foot site 9 (614) distances (position)=(the wide 22CM-2 of the bottom of s trouser leg)/2=10 (10) to Y-axis
Distance (H=104) in preceding crotch foot site 9 to Y-axis narrows or selects: (10.25)-(10)=-0.25
Just on the position in the preceding crotch foot site 9 of Fig. 6, narrowing or select size-0.25CM is 614 position; Form the specification framework plane 615 of Fig. 7.
In the formula: [1/16H (104)+3.75] are the some position of the preceding crotch site 9 horizontal X of foot;-narrow for relative Y-axis; 0.25 for narrow or select size 0.25CM on the position in preceding crotch foot site 9, simultaneously, 0.25CM is an adjusted value-0.25.
Because hypothesis is thought: when narrowing or selecting size 0.25CM on the position in preceding crotch foot site 9 (as thinking that the gauge type of table 2 is the most suitable), male trousers style shape moulding performance is the most suitable; So,, on the position of the preceding crotch foot site 9 position points of number type structural plan Figure 61 of Fig. 6, narrow or select size-0.25CM according to its male trousers style shape moulding performance; Form the specification framework plane 615 of Fig. 7; To determine male trousers gauge type: wide as the bottom of s trouser leg is 22CM.
2, the pattern design drawing of will be on the specification framework plane carrying out pattern tissue according to the style shape moulding performance of build, clothes is decomposed into: the position point; The position; Province and rivel are set; Four steps of structure line designing and mapping:
For example, the introduction before introducing the specific embodiment, structural plan Figure 51 and profile Figure 54 with Fig. 4 illustrate the pattern design drafting method that carries out pattern tissue on the specification framework plane:
Please refer to four steps of the structural plan Figure 51 and the designing and mapping among profile Figure 54 of Fig. 4 male trousers cutting schematic diagram:
(A) position of position point shows the position of folding and unfolding or selected element according to the style shape moulding of build and clothes:
For example: former crotch waist site 1 is the example explanation: as the preceding crotch waist site 1 in Fig. 4 male trousers cutting schematic diagram, narrow 1CM according to the style shape moulding of build and male trousers:
On the position in preceding crotch waist site 1, narrow or select-1CM after, be the position in preceding crotch waist site 52.
(B) length at position is calculated according to position computing formula or position design formula and is determined:
For example: the preceding bottom of s trouser leg wide 11 is 22CM; Wide (the 22)-2=20CM of the bottom of s trouser leg or 1/8H (104)+7=20CM
(C) the style shape moulding performance according to clothes is provided with province and rivel on the apparel construction plane:
For example: the Attacking Midfielder is wide by 11, and according to the shape moulding performance of male trousers, being provided with on the Figure 51 of specification framework plane and economizing 41 is that 3CM and rivel 42 are 5CM.
(D) position of the point on the structure line is according to the style shape moulding performance folding and unfolding or the selection of build, clothes; Form the style outline line of pattern tissue:
For example: on the position of the point 53 on the preceding crotch structure line 34; After narrowing or select 1CM according to the style shape moulding of male trousers; Position for the point 55 on profile Figure 54; Through putting 55 position, the approximate formation outline line 54 that connects.
3, the shape of adorning according to the style shape moulding performance kimonos of build, clothes is carried out the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue; Be on the position of putting on the structure line, appropriate folding and unfolding or selection suitable dimensions; To carry out the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue:
Point on the apparel construction plane is meant position point on the apparel construction plane and the point on the structure line; On the apparel construction plane, the position difference of point, the style shape difference of pattern tissue, the style shape moulding performance of clothes is different.
Because the front was introduced, the structure line is meant the line of decision apparel construction plane graphics shape: it comprise the structure line itself, position point, the province and the rivel that are provided with according to the style shape moulding performance of clothes: economize a little and rivel point and provincial highway.
So think, on the specification framework plane, carry out the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue according to the style shape moulding of build, clothes or the shape of clothes; Be on the position of the point on the structure line, the size of putting on appropriate folding and unfolding or the choice structure line how much.
Because the point on the structure line comprises the point on position point, the structure line; So think, on the position of the point on the structure line, the size of putting on appropriate folding and unfolding or the choice structure line how much; Be on the position of point, the size of appropriate folding and unfolding or selected element how much.
(A) at first explanation, on the position of the point on the structure line, the size of putting on appropriate folding and unfolding or the choice structure line is how much; Be the adjusted value in the decomposition formula of the point on appropriate folding and unfolding or the choice structure line, to carry out the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue;
Because apparel pattern design drawing is to be foundation with the position point; Simultaneously, the position of position point has some decomposition formula in position to calculate definite and analyzes; So, be before the wide folding and unfolding of the preceding crotch waist in crotch waist site 1 or be chosen as the example explanation:
Please refer to Fig. 4 male trousers cutting schematic diagram: the style shape moulding according to build and male trousers narrows 1CM:
A) in 1 decomposition formula of preceding crotch waist site: X=-(1/10H-0.3) (Y=25: the straight dark 25CM of crotch is omitted)
B) the position 51:-[1/10H (104)-0.3 of preceding crotch waist site 1 on the specification framework plane]=-10.1
C) after 1CM is narrowed in preceding crotch waist site 1, in the position 52 of specification framework plane XOY plane:
X＝-{[1/10H(104)-0.3]-1}＝-9.1
In the formula :-be the position of place XOY plane; [1/10H (104)-0.3] are the position of position point;-1 for adjusting (narrowing) or selection-1CM size; Simultaneously ,-the 1CM size is an expression adjusted value-1.
Just in the position in preceding crotch waist site 1: on-[1/10H (104)-0.3], folding and unfolding or select adjusted value-1.
(B) explanation is then carried out the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue according to the shape that the style shape moulding performance kimonos of build, clothes is adorned; On the position of putting on the structure line, appropriate folding and unfolding or selection suitable dimensions; Be the position of point on, folding and unfolding or select what of identical with it amount of size; To carry out the style shaped design drawing of pattern tissue:
Example 1. is with the style shape moulding according to male trousers of the preceding crotch waist site 1 of Fig. 4, narrow or select-1CM after, for preceding crotch waist site 52 is the example explanation: when H=104, the position of preceding crotch waist site 1 on the Figure 51 of the structural plan of Fig. 4:
X=-[1/10H (104)-0.3]=-10.1 and Y=25 (straight the dark 25CM of crotch)
A) folding and unfolding or selection on the position of point; It is 0 that lateral dimension value and longitudinal size value are made an appointment:
On the position in preceding crotch waist site 1: the lateral dimension value [1/10H (104)-0.3]=-it is 0 that 10.1} and longitudinal size value { Y=25 (the straight dark 25CM of crotch) } are made an appointment;
The lateral dimension value of the folding and unfolding of position B) or selection or longitudinal size value+with-, the relative position of X-axis on the XOY of structural plan figure geometrical plane or Y-axis and deciding:
Before crotch waist site 1 X-axis 18 on the XOY of structural plan figure geometrical plane and the position of Y-axis 19 relatively, after laterally narrowing 1CM be :-1CM;
C) the lateral dimension value or the position of longitudinal size value, agreement and X-axis or Y-axis parallel vertical; For example:
The lateral dimension value 57 in the preceding crotch waist site 1 of Fig. 4+1 to 58-3 position, arrange parallel with X-axis 18;
D) position of putting on folding and unfolding or the choice structure line is on the position of the point on the structure line, the lateral dimension value that folding and unfolding or selection are identical with it or the amount of size of longitudinal size value:
Position in preceding crotch waist site 1: the lateral dimension value [1/10H (104)-0.3]=-10.1} and longitudinal size value Y=25} is decided to be on 0 the position approximately, laterally narrow or select same size-1CM for-{ [1/10H (104)-0.3]-1}=-9.1 and the { position of Y=25}; It just is the position in preceding crotch waist site 52.
Example 2. is again with the position of the point 53 on the preceding crotch structure line 34 of Fig. 4; After laterally narrowing 1CM according to the style shape moulding of male trousers; For the point 55 on profile Figure 54 is the example explanation:
A) on the position of the point 53 on the preceding crotch structure line 34, lateral dimension value and longitudinal size value are decided to be 0 approximately;
B) on the position of the point 53 on the preceding crotch structure line 34, the position of Y-axis 19 laterally narrows or selects 1CM to be :-1CM relatively;
C) since eigen because of no schematic diagram; Simultaneously, the existing introduction in above-mentioned example is so this example is omitted;
D) on the position of the point 53 on the preceding crotch structure line 34, laterally laterally narrow or select identical-1CM; Position for the point 55 on profile Figure 54.
(C) on the apparel construction plane, the position folding and unfolding of same point or the size difference of selection; The style shape moulding performance of clothes is different.
According to the mutual variation relation of the style shape moulding performance of position and the build of point, clothes, on the position of point, show according to the style shape moulding of build, clothes; The folding and unfolding amount is progressively put from receiving, appropriate folding and unfolding select suitable lateral dimension value or the longitudinal size value what; Designing and mapping with the style shape of carrying out pattern tissue:
For example: wide with the preceding crotch in the preceding crotch waist site 1 in the preceding crotch waist site 1 of Fig. 4 male trousers cutting schematic diagram is example:
Before the position of the wide relative Y-axis of preceding crotch in crotch waist site 1: the endomorphy type amount of relaxing is+; The ectomorphic type amount of narrowing is-;
Before supposing the scope of the wide folding and unfolding of preceding crotch in crotch waist site 1 or selection 57+1-58-3CM between:
According between scope+1----3CM progressively during the position in folding and unfolding or selection portion site; Mutual variation relation with the style shape moulding of build, male trousers performance; For example, according to experience, think that the wide lateral dimension of preceding crotch in preceding crotch waist site 1 of this routine male trousers narrows or when selecting 1CM, the style shape moulding performance of the clothes of this male trousers is the most suitable in imagination neutralization.
So between+1----3CM, preceding crotch waist site 1 appropriateness narrows or selects suitable lateral dimension value-1CM.
(3) on dress form figure, carry out the pattern design drawing of clothes or the shape copying drawing of clothes:
For example, be the example explanation with the pattern design drawing of on the male trousers illustraton of model, carrying out male trousers or the shape copying of clothes:
At first, form Fig. 5,6,7 serial male trousers illustraton of model according to the planar structure of the male trousers structural plan figure of Fig. 3; Then on Fig. 5,6,7 serial male trousers illustraton of model according to the pattern design drawing of male trousers or the shape copying of male trousers.
1) pattern design of carrying out clothes on dress form figure is charted:
Please refer to No. 104 type structural plan Figure 61 and the table 2 specification framework plane 615 of Fig. 5,6,7 illustraton of model and it:
At first: suppose that the male trousers pattern is with identical in the planar structure of Fig. 5,6,7 male trousers illustraton of model structural plan figure.
A. at first according to the specification of clothes, folding and unfolding or selection on illustraton of model form the specification framework plane:
On Fig. 5 illustraton of model:
(A) select shelves difference type card according to the specification shelves difference of clothes, poor with the shelves of selecting pattern tissue:
On illustraton of model, select the shelves difference type card identical in the shelves difference type card of corresponding site point with the position shelves difference of clothes;
For example, former crotch foot site 9 is the example explanation:
As table 2, when the specification shelves of male trousers poor: when the shelves difference of trousers length is 0:
On Fig. 5 illustraton of model, in the shelves difference type cards (1) and (2) in preceding crotch foot site 9, specification shelves according to clothes are poor: the shelves difference that shelves difference is 0, the bottom of s trouser leg is loose of trousers length is 0.5, and it is poor to select with the specification shelves of clothes: the shelves difference of trousers length is 0, the loose grade difference of the bottom of s trouser leg is 0.5 grade difference type card (2);
(B) according to number type of clothes, formation type structural plan figure:
As table 2, when the gauge type of male trousers is hip circumference 104CM;
On Fig. 5 illustraton of model, be hip circumference 104CM according to male trousers gauge type, number type scale 104 on the connecting structure plane on each position period type card; Number type of formation table 1 is that hip circumference 104, shelves differ from number type 104 structural plan Figure 61 of 2.
(C) on number type structural plan figure, form the specification framework plane according to the gauge type of clothes:
As table 2, when the specification of the specification of table 2 and the structural plan Figure 61 on Fig. 5 illustraton of model not simultaneously;
For example on Fig. 5 illustraton of model: the position of each position point on number type structural plan Figure 61, according to the specification folding and unfolding or the selection of table 2; Form the specification framework plane 615 of the table 2 of Fig. 7;
Please refer to the illustraton of model of Fig. 6:
A) as table 2, when the straight crotch of male trousers dark 25 the time:
On number type 104 structural plan Figure 61; Mark 67 is put on horizontal line in the position 66 of the longitudinal size data 25 of crotch waist 1 position period type figure before folding and unfolding or the selection (the straight dark 25CM of crotch, note: its vertical grid coordinates value is-2);
On number type 104 structural plan Figure 61; Adjust or select the position 68 of vertical grid coordinates value-2 (noting identical) of the preceding No. 3 type figure in crotch buttocks site, put on mark 69 with horizontal line with vertical grid coordinates value-2 of the preceding crotch waist No. 1 type figure in site;
On number type 104 structural plan Figure 61; As because preceding crotch crotch position point 5 no vertical grid coordinates values; Vertically the position of grid coordinates value when formation type 104 structural plan Figure 61, is determined.
B) as table 2, when the trousers length 103CM of male trousers:
The following dark 25=74CM of long (length of thigh line below 18)=straight crotch of trousers length 103-waist position 4-
On number type 104 structural plan Figure 61; Mark 611 is put on horizontal line in the position 610 of the longitudinal size data 74 of No. 9 type figure in site of crotch foot before folding and unfolding or the selection (note: vertically the grid coordinates value is+1);
On number type 104 structural plan Figure 61; Adjust or select before the position 612 of vertical grid coordinates value+1 (noting: identical) of No. 7 type figure in crotch knee site with vertical grid coordinates value+1 in preceding crotch foot site 9, put on mark 613 with horizontal line;
C) as table 2, when the wide 22CM of the bottom of s trouser leg of male trousers
On number type 104 structural plan Figure 61; The wide 22-2 of the lateral dimension data 10[(bottom of s trouser leg of No. 9 type figure in site of crotch foot before narrowing or selecting)/2 mark 614 is put in position 614].
D) as Fig. 7 illustraton of model, corresponding position point on the connecting structure plane, the specification framework plane 615 of formation table 2.
B. then on the specification framework plane, according to the style shape moulding performance folding and unfolding or the selection of clothes, to carry out the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue:
As introducing introduction before the specific embodiment, structural plan Figure 51 and profile Figure 54 with Fig. 4 illustrate the method for designing and mapping that carries out pattern tissue on the specification framework plane; So:
Please refer to Fig. 4 male trousers cutting schematic diagram and its structural plan Figure 51 and profile Figure 54:
(A) position of position point shows folding and unfolding or chosen position according to the style shape moulding of build, clothes:
As Fig. 4, after the position in preceding crotch waist site 1 is narrowed or selected 1CM, be the position in preceding crotch waist site 52;
(B) length at position is calculated definite according to the gauge type of clothes by position computing formula or position design formula:
Fig. 4 for example, the preceding bottom of s trouser leg is wide by 11: wide (the 22)-2=20CM of the bottom of s trouser leg or the preceding bottom of s trouser leg are wide: 1/8H (104)+7=20CM
(C) the style shape moulding performance according to male trousers is provided with province and rivel on the figure of structural plan:
For example Fig. 4 is provided with province 3CM and rivel 5CM at the wide position 11 of Attacking Midfielder.
(D) position of the point on the structure line is according to the style shape moulding performance folding and unfolding or the selection of clothes; Form the outline line of pattern tissue:
As Fig. 4,1CM is narrowed or selected in the position of the point 53 on the preceding crotch structure line 34 of male trousers tailoring schematic diagram, is the point 55 on the outline line 54; After putting for 55 approximate connections, form outline line 54.
2) on dress form figure, carry out the shape copying of clothes:
1) supposes that the shape of the male trousers that duplicated is identical with profile Figure 54 of the male trousers cutting schematic diagram of Fig. 4;
2) suppose that gauge type as table 2 is the specification of the male trousers that duplicated;
3) as table 2, suppose the specification of the male trousers that duplicates, as trousers length for shelves differ from 0, the wide shelves of bottom of s trouser leg difference is 0.5;
4) suppose the male trousers that duplicates identical with the planar structure of the structural plan figure of Fig. 5,6,7 male trousers illustratons of model.
A. at first measure the gauge type size of the clothes that duplicate, folding and unfolding or selection on illustraton of model, the specification framework plane of the formation clothes that duplicate according to integral body;
(A) as table 2, the control spot size of the gauge type size of the decision clothes of whole measurement and definite clothes that duplicate:
For example: the hip circumference 104CM of the male trousers pattern spare that is duplicated of measurement (preceding hip breadth 25 * 4+4), the straight dark 25CM of crotch, trousers length 103CM, the dark 32.5CM in knee position (annotate: the along slope coordinate value-1 " 32.5CM " of No. 7 type figure in crotch knee site was identical with the position of the along slope coordinate value-1 of the preceding crotch No. 9 type figure in site of foot before data 32.5CM came freely), the wide 22CM of the preceding bottom of s trouser leg;
(B) measure the control spot size of the clothes of the clothes that duplicate according to integral body, formation specification framework plane:
Measure the control spot size of the gauge type of the clothes that duplicate: hip circumference 104CM, the straight dark 25CM of crotch, trousers length 103CM, the dark 32.5CM in knee position according to integral body; Form the structural plan figure of the specification number of being type 104CM, the straight dark 25CM of crotch, trousers length 103CM, the dark 32.5CM of middle crotch;
Please refer to Fig. 5 illustraton of model and its No. 104 type structural plan Figure 61:
A) select shelves difference type card according to the shelves difference of duplicating clothes:
As table 2, the male trousers specification shelves difference trousers length of being duplicated differs from 0 for shelves:
On Fig. 5 illustraton of model, in the shelves difference type cards (1) and (2) in preceding crotch foot site 9, the shelves difference of selecting trousers length is 0, the wide grade difference of the bottom of s trouser leg is 0.5 grade difference type card (2).
B) according to number type formation type structural plan figure on illustraton of model of duplicating clothes:
When number type of the male trousers that is duplicated is hip circumference 104CM;
Number type scale 104 on the connecting structure plane on each position period type card, formation type 104 structural plan Figure 61.
C) on number type structural plan figure, form the specification framework plane according to the control spot size of duplicating clothes:
Please refer to Fig. 6 illustraton of model and on number type 104 structural plan Figure 61:
A, when the straight crotch of measuring that duplicates male trousers dark 25 the time;
Receive the position 66 of the longitudinal size data 25 (note: vertical grid coordinates value of the straight dark 25CM of crotch is-2) of short or the preceding crotch waist 1 position period type figure of selection, put on mark 67 with horizontal line;
Receive the position 68 of vertical grid coordinates value-2 (noting: identical) of short or the preceding No. 3 type figure in crotch buttocks site of selection, put on mark 69 with horizontal line with the vertical grid coordinates value-2 of No. 1 type figure of preceding crotch waist;
B, when measure duplicate the trousers length 103CM of male trousers the time;
Adjust the position 610 of the longitudinal size data 74 (the straight crotch of trousers length 103-waist position 4-dark 25) of (folding and unfolding) or the preceding No. 9 type figure in site of crotch foot of selection, put on mark 611 with horizontal line;
C, when measure duplicate the dark 32.5CM in knee position of male trousers the time:
Receive the position 612 of the longitudinal length data 32.5 of short or the preceding No. 7 type figure in crotch knee site of selection, put on mark 613 with horizontal line;
D, when the wide 22CM of the preceding bottom of s trouser leg of the male trousers of measuring that duplicates;
The wide 22-2 of the lateral dimension data 10[(bottom of s trouser leg of No. 9 type figure in site of crotch foot before narrowing or selecting)/2 position 614] is with putting on mark 614.
E, as Fig. 7 illustraton of model: corresponding position point on the connecting structure plane forms structural plan Figure 61 5 of male trousers hip circumference 104CM, the straight dark 25CM of crotch, trousers length 103CM, the dark 32.5CM in knee position, the wide 22CM of the preceding bottom of s trouser leg.
B. then on the specification framework plane, duplicate the local shape of the clothes of clothes according to institute's local measurement; Local folding and unfolding or selection, the shape copying of the pattern tissue of the clothes that duplicate carrying out:
As the introduction before introducing the specific embodiment,, the method that forms pattern tissue on the specification framework plane is described with structural plan Figure 51 and profile Figure 54 of Fig. 4; Simultaneously, suppose that the shape of the male trousers that duplicated is identical with profile Figure 54 of the male trousers cutting schematic diagram of Fig. 4; So:
Please refer to Fig. 4 male trousers cutting schematic diagram and its profile Figure 54:
(A) the local shape moulding of clothes that local measurement duplicates:
A) the shape moulding of the position point position of clothes that local measurement duplicates:
For example, as Fig. 4,1CM is narrowed in preceding crotch waist site 1:
B) length at each position of clothes that local measurement duplicates:
For example: as Fig. 4, Attacking Midfielder position 11 length are that (annotate: data 17CM is wide from the Attacking Midfielder: waist W (72)/4-1=17CM) for 17CM; The wide 22.75CM of crotch in preceding (annotate: data 22.75CM is from preceding crotch knee site 9 position decomposition formula: the X={-{[17/160H (104)+1.525 that press Fig. 4]-1.2}} * 2=22.75CM);
C) the shape moulding of the local location of clothes that local measurement duplicates; Whether local location is provided with province and rivel:
For example: as Fig. 4, economizing of setting 41 is 5CM for 3CM and rivel 42:
D) the shape moulding of the outline line of clothes that local measurement duplicates:
For example, as Fig. 4, the position of the point 53 of preceding crotch crotch position point 5 to preceding crotch foot site 9 connecting lines " or hard ruler " (preceding crotch structure line 34), the position distance of the point 55 to the outline line 54 is 1CM.
Another kind method:,, duplicate on paper with the shape of outline line 54 as Fig. 4; Form outline line 54 models.
(B) then according to the local shape of clothes that local measurement duplicates; Local folding and unfolding or selection, the style shape of the pattern tissue of the clothes that the duplicated drawing to carry out; Be respectively: the position point; Position: province and rivel are set: the folding and unfolding of structure line or selection:
Please refer to Fig. 4 male trousers cutting schematic diagram and its structural plan Figure 51 and profile Figure 54:
A) position of position point is according to the position folding and unfolding or the chosen position of the position point of build and the clothes that duplicate:
For example Fig. 4 narrows or selects preceding crotch waist site 1 to be the position of 1CM to preceding crotch waist site 52;
B) length at position is according to the length folding and unfolding or the chosen position at the position of duplicating clothes:
Fig. 4 for example, preceding in the wide 22.75CM of crotch;
Crotch knee site 7 to the distance of crease line 19 is the position 56 of 22.75/2=11.375 before narrowing or selecting;
C) on the apparel construction plane according to the shape moulding of the local location of duplicating clothes; Province and rivel are set:
Fig. 4 for example is provided with Attacking Midfielder wide 11 and economizes 41 and be 5CM for 3CM and rivel 42:
D) position of the point on the structure line forms the pattern tissue outline line according to the shape moulding folding and unfolding or the selection of the structure line of duplicating clothes:
Fig. 4 for example, on the preceding crotch structure line 34 (preceding crotch crotch position point 5 is to preceding crotch foot's site 9 connecting lines or " hard ruler "), the position distance of the point 55 of the position of metric point 53 to the outline line 54 is 1CM;
The position of the point 55 on the approximate fifth wheel profile 54 forms outline line 54.
Another kind method:,, be divided into the shape of outline line 54 according to outline line 54 models as Fig. 4; The outline line 54 that forms.
(4) on dress form figure according to the shelves differences and number type of clothes, carry out the shelves difference and number type drawing of other style pattern tissue;
Example: the male trousers structural plan Figure 51 (male trousers pattern) that supposes Fig. 4 is the graphics shape of other style pattern tissue; It is to obtain with the three-dimensional method for designing and mapping of clothes, clothes clone method or other method; Specification as table 2: its specification shelves poor (2): the shelves difference of trousers length is 0 and the gauge type: number type is hip circumference 104CM: other number type is example with 108CM.
1) on illustraton of model: when the position of the X-axis of style pattern tissue and Y-axis and its planar structure and shape, when identical with planar structure with shape with the position of X-axis on the illustraton of model and Y-axis; The style pattern tissue is as the style pattern tissue that designs on illustraton of model.For example, the planar structure and the shape of the X-axis of male trousers structural plan Figure 51 of Fig. 4 and the position of Y-axis and it are identical with its planar structure and shape with the position of the X-axis of the specification framework plane 615 of Fig. 7 illustraton of model and Y-axis.
2) number type of measurement style pattern tissue: the position of decision garment size: dress is the hip circumference position down, as preceding hip breadth 12 positions; Last dress is the loose position of shirt body chest measurement, as the wide position of preceding chest measurement; Other position is the position of the gauge type of decision clothes.
Now, carry out the specification shelves poor (2) of other style pattern tissue (as male trousers structural plan Figure 51 of Fig. 4) with on the illustraton of model of Fig. 5: the shelves difference of trousers length be 0 and other number type be that the male trousers structural plan Figure 51 drawing of 108CM is an example explanation:
Please refer to the specification framework plane 615 of graph model figure and Fig. 7 and male trousers structural plan Figure 51 of Fig. 4; At first:
1) select the illustraton of model identical with the planar structure of style pattern tissue:
According to the planar structure of male trousers structural plan Figure 51 (male trousers pattern) of Fig. 4, select the illustraton of model of Fig. 7;
2) on the style pattern tissue, determine the X-axis position identical with illustraton of model of style pattern tissue with Y-axis:
On the figure of the male trousers structural plan of Fig. 4, determine that the X-axis of style pattern tissue and the position of Y-axis are the position of X-axis 18 and Y-axis 19;
3), measure number type of style pattern tissue as on the male trousers structural plan of Fig. 4 Figure 51 (male trousers pattern);
For example, the preceding hip breadth of measurement male trousers pattern is 25CM; The hip circumference position number of being type 104CM (preceding hip breadth 25CM * 4+4)
4) on illustraton of model, the X-axis on adjustment and definite style pattern tissue and the illustraton of model and the position of Y-axis:
Adjust and the male trousers structural plan figure of definite Fig. 4 and Fig. 5 illustraton of model on the X-axis 18 and the position of Y-axis 19 identical;
5) poor according to the specification shelves of clothes, in position point shelves difference type card, select the shelves difference type card identical with the position shelves difference of clothes; Poor with the shelves of selecting pattern tissue:
As at Fig. 5 illustraton of model in the shelves difference type cards (1) and (2) in preceding crotch foot site 9; It is poor with the shelves of male trousers to select: trousers length is for shelves differ from 2, wide grade of difference of the bottom of s trouser leg is 0.5 identical grade difference type card (2);
6) position of each position point of position alignment of number type scale that number type with the style pattern tissue on number type card is identical:
As the position of number type scale 104 on No. 1 type card in preceding crotch waist site of Fig. 5 illustraton of model, the position (number type of the specification framework plane 615 of Fig. 7 is 104CM) in crotch waist site 1 before aiming at;
7) according to number type of clothes, on corresponding site period type card, select number type scale identical with number type of clothes; To carry out other number type drawing of pattern tissue:
For example, as on number type card in the preceding crotch waist site 1 of Fig. 7 illustraton of model, selecting number type scale 108 positions (example type be 108CM) identical with number type 108 of clothes, is the position in number type 108 preceding crotch waist sites 1 of illustraton of model; Number type card on number type scale 108 of each position point of similar connection specification framework plane 615 (number type is 104), formation type are that (this step does not have schematic diagram for the specification framework plane of 108CM; As reference " dress planar drafting method and dress form figure thereof ").

Claims (21)

1. the planar structure by a kind of structural plan figure is carried out the apparel pattern design drafting method, and it comprises following step:
(1) on a kind of apparel construction plane, is provided with respectively: 1) XOY geometrical plane; 2) position point; 3) position; 4) bisector; 5) position computing formula; 6) position design formula; 7) position point decomposition formula; 8) province and rivel; 9) structure line and suture.
(2) carry out style, shelves difference and number type designing and mapping of pattern tissue according to the planar structure of the apparel construction plane of a kind of XOY of setting geometrical plane etc.:
1) poor according to the specification shelves of clothes, select and the identical ratio of cloth part shelves difference; To carry out the shelves difference drawing of pattern tissue;
2) according to the style shape moulding of clothes, appropriateness is selected the quantity of margin of suitable clothes, to determine number type of single-piece clothes;
3) according to number type of clothes, select number type identical with number type of clothes; To carry out number type drawing of pattern tissue;
4) according to the style shape moulding of build, clothes performance, the identical adjusted value of style shape moulding of selection and build, clothes; To carry out the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue;
1, on number type structural plan figure,, forms the specification framework plane according to the gauge type of clothes;
2, the pattern design drawing of will be on the specification framework plane carrying out pattern tissue according to the shape of the style shape moulding performance kimonos dress of build, clothes is decomposed into: the position point; The position; Province and rivel are set; Four steps of structure line designing and mapping;
3, the shape of adorning according to the style shape moulding performance kimonos of build, clothes is carried out the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue; On the position of putting on the structure line, appropriate folding and unfolding or selection suitable dimensions; To carry out the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue.
(3) on dress form figure, carry out the pattern design drawing of clothes or the shape copying drawing of clothes:
1) at first according to the specification shelves difference and the gauge type of clothes, forms the specification framework plane;
2) carry out the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue according to the style shape moulding performance of build, clothes or the shape of clothes then.
(4) on dress form figure according to the shelves differences and number type of clothes, carry out the shelves difference and number type drawing of other style pattern tissue:
Shelves according to clothes are poor, select the shelves difference type card identical with the position shelves difference of clothes in the shelves difference type card of position point;
According to number type of clothes, on number type card of position point, select number type scale identical with number type of clothes.
2. a kind of apparel construction plane of apparel pattern design drafting method as claimed in claim 1 is provided with the XOY geometrical plane; It is characterized in that:
The parametric equation principle of applicable line, the position of point on the XOY of apparel construction plane geometrical plane on calculating and analysis portion site, the structure line; Designing and mapping with the style of carrying out pattern tissue, shelves difference and number type.
3. a kind of apparel construction plane of pattern tissue drafting method as claimed in claim 1 is provided with the position point; It is characterized in that:
1) a group or more position point decomposition formula is arranged on each position point;
2) the position folding and unfolding of position point or when selecting; Folding and unfolding or the identical with it size of selection on the position of position point;
3) the position folding and unfolding of position point or when selecting; Be subjected to the specification limits of clothes.
4. a kind of apparel construction plane of apparel pattern design drafting method as claimed in claim 1 is provided with the position; It is characterized in that:
1) length at position is subjected to the specification limits of clothes; Chest measurement and hip circumference position are number type (type) position of decision clothes;
2) there is one group of position computing formula at each position;
3) there is a group or more position design formula at each position.
5. a kind of apparel construction plane of apparel pattern design drafting method as claimed in claim 1 is provided with bisector; It is characterized in that:
The variation of the style shape of pattern tissue planar graph, shelves differences what and number type size all is that the five equilibrium according to bisector changes; With design formula together, calculate and determination portion site decomposition formula.
6. a kind of apparel construction plane of apparel pattern design drafting method as claimed in claim 1 is provided with the position computing formula; It is characterized in that:
Calculate the style span access location length at the position of pattern tissue according to the gauge type of clothes.
7. a kind of apparel construction plane of apparel pattern design drafting method as claimed in claim 1 is provided with the position design formula; It is characterized in that:
1) according to the specification of clothes calculate the length at position of pattern tissue and shelves difference what; Size with what and number type of the shape of the style of decision apparel construction plane figure, shelves difference.Wherein, the style span access location length at adjustment calculation and definite position; Number type calculates and determines number type span access location length at position; Ratio is calculated and is determined how many shelves differences of the 1CM type at position differs;
2) and bisector calculate together and determination portion site decomposition formula.
8. a kind of apparel construction plane of apparel pattern design drafting method as claimed in claim 1 is provided with position point decomposition formula; It is characterized in that:
According to the specification of clothes calculate the position point of pattern tissue, point on the structure line on the XOY of structural plan figure geometrical plane the position and the shelves difference what; Size with what and number type of the shape of the style of decision apparel construction plane figure, shelves difference.Wherein, the position of the style point on adjustment calculation and definite style position point, the structure line; Number type calculates and determines the position of number type point on number type position point, the structure line; How many 1CM type shelves differences of the point on ratio calculating and determination portion site, the structure line differs.
9. a kind of apparel construction plane of apparel pattern design drafting method as claimed in claim 1 is provided with province and rivel; It is characterized in that:
Style shape moulding according to clothes on the apparel construction plane shows province and the rivel that is provided with, and the position of corresponding site point, the length of corresponding site are subjected to the specification limits of clothes; Point on the structure line is unrestricted; Irrelevant with the shelves difference and number type of clothes.
10. a kind of apparel construction plane of apparel pattern design drafting method as claimed in claim 1 is provided with structure line and suture; It is characterized in that:
1) all there is a group or more position point decomposition formula the position of the every bit on the structure line;
2) the position folding and unfolding of the point on the structure line or when selecting; Folding and unfolding or the identical with it size of selection on the position of point;
3) the position folding and unfolding of the point on the structure line or when selecting: the specification limits that is not subjected to clothes;
4) position of the point on the structure line is according to the style shape moulding folding and unfolding of build, clothes or select the outline line that forms.
11. apparel pattern design drafting method as claimed in claim 1, the shelves difference drawing of pattern tissue; It is characterized in that:
Specification shelves according to clothes are poor, in the computing formula of calculating part site decomposition formula and ratio thereof, select the position shelves of clothes poor, with selection portion site decomposition formula and ratio thereof; Or select grade difference type card that forms by this ratio; To carry out the shelves difference drawing of pattern tissue.
12. apparel pattern design drafting method as claimed in claim 1 is determined number type of single-piece clothes; It is characterized in that:
According to the style shape moulding of clothes performance, quantity of margin progressively from narrow to wide, appropriateness select suitable clothes quantity of margin what; To determine number type of single-piece clothes.
13. apparel pattern design drafting method as claimed in claim 1, number type drawing of pattern tissue; It is characterized in that:
According to number type of clothes, number type position point identical in the decomposition formula of selection portion site with number type of clothes; Or number type scale on number type card of selecting to form by this number type; Connect formation type structural plan figure; To carry out number type drawing of pattern tissue.
14. apparel pattern design drafting method as claimed in claim 1 is according to the specification shelves difference and the gauge type formation specification framework plane of clothes; It comprises following step:
1) selects the ratio identical and position point decomposition formula or shelves difference type card according to the specification shelves difference of clothes with position shelves difference;
2) according to number type connection corresponding type position point of clothes or the position of number type scale, formation type structural plan figure;
3) the gauge type according to clothes forms the specification framework plane.
15. apparel pattern design drafting method as claimed in claim 1 and claim 14 on number type structural plan figure, according to the gauge type of clothes, form the specification framework plane; It is characterized in that:
1) on the position of position point, according to the gauge type of clothes, adjust or select identical with it size, form the specification framework plane;
2) on the position of position point, according to the style shape moulding performance of clothes, adjust or select identical with it size, form the specification framework plane; Gauge type with the decision clothes.
16. apparel pattern design drafting method as claimed in claim 1, four steps that the shape of adorning according to the style shape moulding performance kimonos of build, clothes on the specification framework plane is carried out the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue; It is characterized in that:
1) position of position point is according to the style shape moulding performance of build, clothes or the shape folding and unfolding or the chosen position of clothes;
2) length at position is calculated according to position computing formula or position design formula and is determined; Or it is definite by the length of this cloth part;
3) on the specification framework plane, province and rivel are set according to the style shape moulding performance of clothes or the shape of clothes;
4) position of the point on the structure line is according to the style shape moulding performance of build, clothes or the shape folding and unfolding or the selection of clothes; Form the outline line of pattern tissue.
17. apparel pattern design drafting method as claimed in claim 1, on the position of the point on the structure line, appropriate folding and unfolding or selection suitable dimensions are to carry out the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue; It is characterized in that:
Adjusted value in the decomposition formula of the point on appropriateness folding and unfolding or the choice structure line is to carry out the pattern design drawing of pattern tissue.
18. apparel pattern design drafting method as claimed in claim 1, on the position of the point on the structure line, appropriate folding and unfolding or select suitable dimensions is with the designing and mapping of the style shape of carrying out pattern tissue; It is characterized in that:
1) on the position of point, lateral dimension value and longitudinal size value are decided to be 0 approximately;
2) the locational folding and unfolding of point or the lateral dimension value of selection or longitudinal size value+with-, the relative X-axis or the position of Y-axis and deciding on the figure of structural plan;
3) the lateral dimension value or the position of longitudinal size value, agreement is parallel or vertical with corresponding X-axis or Y-axis;
4) on the position of point, the lateral dimension value that folding and unfolding or selection are identical with it or the size value of longitudinal size value.
19. apparel pattern design drafting method as claimed in claim 1 and claim (18); It is characterized in that:
On the position of point, according to the style shape moulding performance of build, clothes; The folding and unfolding amount is progressively put from receiving, appropriate folding and unfolding select suitable lateral dimension value or the longitudinal size value what; Designing and mapping with the style shape of carrying out pattern tissue.
20. apparel pattern design drafting method as claimed in claim 1, the shape copying drawing of clothes; It comprises following step:
1) at first according to the gauge type size of the integral body measurement clothes that duplicate, forms the specification framework plane of the clothes that duplicate;
2) then according to the local shape of clothes that local measurement duplicates; Province and rivel, local folding and unfolding or selection are set, the style shape of the pattern tissue of the clothes that duplicated drawing to carry out.
21. apparel pattern design drafting method as claimed in claim 1 according to the shelves difference and number type of clothes, is selected the shelves difference and number type of other style pattern tissue on dress form figure; It comprises following step:
1) planar structure of pattern tissue is according to the pattern selected the dress form figure identical with the planar structure of style pattern tissue;
2) on the style pattern tissue, determine the X-axis that the style pattern tissue is identical with illustraton of model and the position of Y-axis;
3) on the style pattern tissue, measure number type of style pattern tissue;
4) on illustraton of model, adjust and the position of the X-axis of definite style pattern tissue and Y-axis and illustraton of model on the X-axis and the position of Y-axis identical;
5) poor according to the specification shelves of clothes, in position point shelves difference type card, select the shelves difference type card identical, to carry out the shelves difference drawing of pattern tissue with the position shelves difference of clothes;
6) position of number type scale identical on number type card with number type of style pattern tissue, the position in aligned portions site;
7) according to number type of clothes, on each position period type card, select number type scale identical, to carry out the drawing of pattern tissue type with number type of clothes.
CN2006101221736A 2006-09-18 2006-09-18 A method for designing and mapping the clothing pattern sheet according to plane structure of a structure plane graph Expired - Fee Related CN101006873B (en)

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CN1748601A (en) * 2005-10-11 2006-03-22 东华大学 Quick forming method for clothes fashion based on style
CN101006873B (en) * 2006-09-18 2012-03-07 邓炎驹 A method for designing and mapping the clothing pattern sheet according to plane structure of a structure plane graph

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CN101485499B (en) * 2009-01-19 2014-03-05 吴厚林 Trouser suit pattern as well as structure design skill and technique for trouser suit
CN102578735A (en) * 2012-02-23 2012-07-18 东华大学 Clothing pattern making method
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