CA1157637A - Gear crimped jaspe yarns and processes for their manufacture - Google Patents
Gear crimped jaspe yarns and processes for their manufactureInfo
- Publication number
- CA1157637A CA1157637A CA000370819A CA370819A CA1157637A CA 1157637 A CA1157637 A CA 1157637A CA 000370819 A CA000370819 A CA 000370819A CA 370819 A CA370819 A CA 370819A CA 1157637 A CA1157637 A CA 1157637A
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- Prior art keywords
- yarn
- gear
- crimped
- decitex
- composite
- Prior art date
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Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
- D02G1/14—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using grooved rollers or gear-wheel-type members
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
Abstract
ABSTRACT
There is provided a drawn gear-criped yarn with latent bulk, the yarn being a nodally interlaced composite yarn comprising polyester continuous filaments and polyamide continuous filaments in the weight ratio 90:10 to 10:90 and the amount and nature of the bulk and the interlacing being such a that the composite yarn has an initial crimp as defined of 2% to 12%, a mechanical crimp stability as defined of above 0% and has 40 to 140 nodes per metre. The gear-crimped yarn may be produced by heating a drawable polyester yarn (1) having birefringence of at least 30 x 10-3 and drawable polyamide yarn (4) having a bire-fringence of at least 30 x 10-3, simultaneously drawing and gear-crimping the composite yarn by means of toothed draw rolls (11,12), forwarding the crimped composite yarn from the toothed draw rolls under a controlled tension within the range 0.15 to 0.50 g per decitex based on the decitex of the drawn composite yarn and subsequently nodally interlacing (18) the composite yarn such that it has 40 to 140 nodes per metre, the weight ratio of the polyester yarn to the polyamide yarn being in the range 90:10 to 10:90.
There is provided a drawn gear-criped yarn with latent bulk, the yarn being a nodally interlaced composite yarn comprising polyester continuous filaments and polyamide continuous filaments in the weight ratio 90:10 to 10:90 and the amount and nature of the bulk and the interlacing being such a that the composite yarn has an initial crimp as defined of 2% to 12%, a mechanical crimp stability as defined of above 0% and has 40 to 140 nodes per metre. The gear-crimped yarn may be produced by heating a drawable polyester yarn (1) having birefringence of at least 30 x 10-3 and drawable polyamide yarn (4) having a bire-fringence of at least 30 x 10-3, simultaneously drawing and gear-crimping the composite yarn by means of toothed draw rolls (11,12), forwarding the crimped composite yarn from the toothed draw rolls under a controlled tension within the range 0.15 to 0.50 g per decitex based on the decitex of the drawn composite yarn and subsequently nodally interlacing (18) the composite yarn such that it has 40 to 140 nodes per metre, the weight ratio of the polyester yarn to the polyamide yarn being in the range 90:10 to 10:90.
Description
GEAR CRIMPED JASPE YARNS AND`PROCESSES
-FOR THEIR M~NUFACTURE
The present invention relates to improved jaspe yarns and to processes for their manufacture.
A j aspe yarn has the general appearance of two differently coloured yarns twisted together; however, it is made by texturing together two continuous filament yarns of different dyeability and then dyeing the textured yarn, generally in fabric form.
Gear crimping of synthetic yarns is well known in the art. A process for drawing and gear crimping an undrawn synthetic yarn is described in British Patent Specification 984,922. The use of undrawn polyamide and polyester yarns is described. Gear crimping of drawn synthetic yarns is also known.
The use of undrawn polyester yarn in a draw-gear crimping process is unsatisfactory because of extremely low bulk and breaking of filaments in the process. The use of drawn polyester yarn in a gear crimping process is unsatisfactory because of unacceptably low bulk. The low bulk achieved is particularly apparent in finished fabric made from the crimped yarn. ;
In our United States Patent No. 4,273,823, there is described a drawn gear-crimped polyester yarn with latent bulk the amount and nature of the bulk being such that the yarn has an initial crimp as defined of at least 1.5%, preferably of above
-FOR THEIR M~NUFACTURE
The present invention relates to improved jaspe yarns and to processes for their manufacture.
A j aspe yarn has the general appearance of two differently coloured yarns twisted together; however, it is made by texturing together two continuous filament yarns of different dyeability and then dyeing the textured yarn, generally in fabric form.
Gear crimping of synthetic yarns is well known in the art. A process for drawing and gear crimping an undrawn synthetic yarn is described in British Patent Specification 984,922. The use of undrawn polyamide and polyester yarns is described. Gear crimping of drawn synthetic yarns is also known.
The use of undrawn polyester yarn in a draw-gear crimping process is unsatisfactory because of extremely low bulk and breaking of filaments in the process. The use of drawn polyester yarn in a gear crimping process is unsatisfactory because of unacceptably low bulk. The low bulk achieved is particularly apparent in finished fabric made from the crimped yarn. ;
In our United States Patent No. 4,273,823, there is described a drawn gear-crimped polyester yarn with latent bulk the amount and nature of the bulk being such that the yarn has an initial crimp as defined of at least 1.5%, preferably of above
2%, and a mechanical crimp stability as defined of above 0%.
The crimped polyester yarn may be produced by heating a drawable polyester yarn having a birefringence in the range 32 x 10 3 to 125 x 10 3 inclusive, preferably 35 x 10 3 to 125 x 10 3 inclusive, crimping the yarn by guiding it between the intermeshing teeth of a set of toothed wheels such that the yarn is caused to follow a sharply zig-zag path, the toothed wheels being rotated at a sufficient speed such that the yarn is drawn by the tension so imparted to the yarn by the toothed wheels and subsequently forwarding the crimped yarn from the toothed wheels under a controlled tension within the range 0.15 to 0.50 g per decitex inclusive based on the . .
~ ~;j7~3~7 decitex of the drawn polyester yarn.
It has now been found possible to produce a drawn gear crimped jaspe yarn having a useful bulk. Compared with conventional false twist crimped yarns, the bulk of the gear-5 crimped y~rns according to the present invention is low;however~ the amount and nature of the bulk make the present yarns extremely suitable for the production of fabrics having desirable aesthetics.
According to the present invention, there is provided a drawn gear-crimped yarn with latent bulk characterised in that the yarn i~ a nod lly interlaced gear-crimped composite yar~ comprising polyester continuous filaments and polyamide continuous filaments in the weight ratio 90:10 to 10:90 inclusive, the gear-crimped composite yarn having an initial 15 crimp as defined herein of 2~o to 12%~ preferably ~% to 8yo~ a mechanical crimp stability as defined herein of above 0~ and having 40 to 140 interlaced nodes per metre.
Preferably the composite gear crimped yarn has been nodally interlaced to an extent such that the yarn has 70 20 to 100 nodes per metre.
According to the present invention, there is further provided a process for producing a drawn gear-crimped yarn with latent bulk characterised in that a drawable polye~ter continuous filament yarn having a birefringence of at least 25 30 x 10 3 and a drawable polyamide continuous filament yarn having a birefringence of at least 30 x 10 3~are heated and simultaneously drawn and gear crimped together as a composite yarn by means of toothed draw rolls and the composite yarn is forwarded from the toothed draw rolls under a oontrolled 30 tension within the range 0.15 to 0.50 g per decites inclusive based on the decitex of the drawn composite yarn and is subssquently interlaced to have 40 to 140 nodes per metre, the weight ratio of the polyester yarn to the polyamide yarn being in the range 90:10 to 10:90 inclusive.
Initial crimp (3K) and mechanical crimp stability (KB) are defined as follows:-:
763~7 ~ he gear crimped composite yarn with latent bulk is wound at a ten~ion of 1.0 centi-newton~ (c~) per tex to form a skein of 1 metre circu~ference and total decitex of 2500. Thus, for example, 16 wraps are required for a yarn having a deoitex of 76. ~he skein is hung and preloaded with a load of 0.01 cN per tex. ~he preloaded skein is heated at 120C for 10 minutes to develop the bulk and i9 then cooled. ~he skein is subjected to a force of 1 c~ per tex for 10 seconds and it~ le~gth (~o) 10 i8 measured. After an interval of 10 min~tes, the length of the skein iB remeasured (L1) supporting the pre-load of 0.01 c~ per tex. After an interval of 10 minutes, a force of 0.1 cN per tex is applied for 10 ~econds and ;mmediately afterwards a high force of 10 c~ per tex is applied for 10 seconds. After 20 m~utes the length of the skein is measured (L3) under the pre-load of 0.01 c~ per tex.
Tn;tial crimp (EE) = Lo~- L1 x 100Yo Mechanical crimp stability (KB)=Lo - L~ x 100%
Tn~tial crimp and mechanical crimp stability values used herein are the mean of EE and EB measurements respectively on at least 5 skeins of yarn.
~he above procedure is similar to that described in the German ~tandard DI~ 53840 and is conveniently carried out on a Texturmat machine manufactured by Herbert Stein, Munchengladbach W Germany.
Initial crimp (~E) i8 a measure of ths percentage reduotion in length from the 3traightened length of a bulked yarn as the result of the bulked structure. Meohanioal orimp stability (KB) is a measure of the proportion of bulk remaining after release of a speoified high load.
The yarns of the present invention possess a level of bulk whioh is commercially aoceptable a~d the bulk is sufficiently stable to tension. The advantages of ~uch yarns are particularly apparent in fini~hed fabrics in which the bulk -~ 7~ Y
has been developed.
~ he jaspe yarns of the present invention, when made into fabrics and dyed such as to colour the polyester and polyamide components differently, exhibit a~ attractive speckled appe æ ance. In order to achieve this appearance, it is important that the gear-crimped composite yarn has been nodally interlaced such that the ya~ has 40 to 140 nodes per metre. Composite yarns having less than 40 nodes per metre produce dyed fabrics in which undesirable streaka of each yarn component are seen.
~ he term yarn as used herein means a monofilament yarn or a multifilament yarn.
~ he drawable polyester and polyamide feed yarns are mado by melt spinning, the spinning condition3 being selected guch that both yarns have a ~imilar re~idual draw ratio.
Preferably the decitex of the drawn composite yarn is less than 150 decitex.
~ he term polyester as used herein means a polyester or a copolyester and the term polyamide means a polyamide or a copolyamide. ~he polyester and polyamide yarns may contain additives such as antioxidants, stabilisers, antistatic agents, delustrants or colouring materials.
~ he filament or filaments of the polye~ter yarn or the polyamide yar~ may have a filament cro~-section which is ciroular or non-circular for example trilobal.
~ he crimped composite yarn is forwarded from the toothed draw rolls under a preferred tension in the range 0.20 to 0.40 ~ per decitex based on the decitex of the drawn compo~ite yar~. ~orwarding the crimped composite yarn from the toothed draw rolls under a low tension of less than 0.15 g per decitex leads to problems of filamentation and yarn breaking and the yar~ tends to lick back around the toothed wheels. The use of a high tension of above 0.50 g per decitex produces a yarn having poor mechanical prrperties and a bulk which appears to be due predominently to edge crimping. Such bulk produced from edge ..
crimping does not yield useful bulk in fabrics made from the yarns. mhe amount of buLk due to true ge æ crimping, measured by EE, iB low and it~ ~tability i9 poor.
mhe drawable polyester and polyamide yarns may be heated by contact with a heated plate or a heated circul æ
pin or by passage through a tube supplied with a haated fluid such as hot air or superheated steam. ~he drawable y æn i8 preferably heated by contact with a heater at a temperature of at least 150C.
m~he toothed draw rolls may comprise two or three gear wheels one of which i8 driven and drives the other wheel or wheels. Preferably the teeth are involute in shape. Preferably the gear wheels have an integral step struoture as described in British Patent Specification ~o 1 255 478. mension sufficient to draw the y æn is exerted by pas~age of the yarn over the tips of the intermeshing teeth of the rotating gear wheels.
~ n embodiment of the invention will now be described by way of example with reference to the accompanying drawing which is a diagrammatic representation of a process according to the invention.
A drawable polyester multifilament y æn 1 having a birefringence of at least 30 x 10 3 i8 withdrawn over one e~d of cylinder 2 from a package 3 of wound y æ n. A drawable polyamide mNltifilament y æ n 4 having a birefringence of at 25 lea~t 30 x 10 3 is withdrawn over one end of cylinder 5 from a package 6 of wound yarn. Withdrawal is effected via pigtail guides 21, 22 by rotation of feed roll 9 and nip roll 7, the combined y æns being passed æound nip roll 7 a suffioient number of times to avoid slippage o~ the yarn.
Downstream of the feed roll 9 and nip roll 7 there are located intermeshiDg gear wheels 11, 12 a~d a yarn tensioDing roll 13. ~he gear wheel 12 is driven by driving gear whee} 11.
single pa~sage of the composite yarn between the intermeshing teeth of the ge æ wheels 11 and 12 induces orimp in the yarn by causing it to follow a sharply zig-zag path. ~etween the feed roll 9 and the ge æ wheels 11, 12 the yarn is passed once around 76~ ~
an electrically heated metal pin 19. ~he gear wheels 11, 12 are rotated at a sufficient speed compared to the feed roll 9 ~uch that the oomposite yarn i9 drawn by the tension exerted on it. the location of the draw point being on the heated pin 19~
Yarn tensioning roll 13 i8 a stepped roll and comprises roll 14 and roll 17 which is of smaller diameter than roll 14. Rolls 14 and 17 have associated separator rolls 15 and 16 respectfully. The crimped drawn yarn iB withdrawn from gear wheels, 11, 12 by tensioning roll 14 under a controlled tension within the range 0.15 to 0.50 g per decitex based on the decitex of the drawn composite yarn. The yarn is passed sufficient times around tensioning roll 14 and separator roll 15 to avoid slippage of the yarn. ~he tension in the yarn i9 then reduoed by passing the yarn around separator roll 16 and roll 17.
Between roll 14 &nd roll 16 the composite yarn is nodally interlaced by passing it through interlacing jet 18.
On leaving the roll 17, the yarn is wound on a ring 3pindle package 23 twist being inserted in the yarn below balloon-guide 25 by rotation of the spindle and rotation of a traveller (not shown) around ring 27.
The yarn 90 produced is 3 drawn composite yarn having latent buIk. The b~lk may be developed by subjecting the yarn in yarn or fabri¢ form, to a thermal treatment.
~he following examples illustrate but do not limit the present invention.
EU~MPIE 1 A 95 deoitex 25 filament drawable poly(ethylene terephthalate) yarn having a birefringence of 63 x 10 3 and a 27 decitex 7 filament drawable poly(hexamethylene adipamide) yarn having a birefringence of 46.6 x 10 3 were drawn and gear crimped by a prooess as shown diagrammatically in the accompanying drawing. ~he polye~ter filaments had a trilobal filament oross-seotion and the polyamide filaments had a circular filament cross-seotion. ~he weight ratio of the polyester filaments to the s ~ ~ :
,: : -:
'~
':
7~3~7 polyamide filaments was 78:22. The heated metal pin was of circular cross-6eotion having a diameter of 2.22 cm and a temperature of 170C. ~he gear wheels were made of stainless steel and had 38 teeth per inch. ~he intermeshing of the gear 5 wheels was such that the mAY;mllm overlap of teeth on the two gears was o.356 mm.
~ he speed of the gear wheel6 was adjusted such that the composite yarn was drawn by the tension imparted to the yarn between the heated pin and the gear wheels. ~he surface speed of the larger diameter ten6ioning roll was 840 metres per minute and the ratio of the 6urface speed of the larger diameter tensioning roll to the surface speed of the feed roll wa9 1.30. The yPrn tension between the gear wheels and the larger diameter tensioning roll wa~ controlled at 31 g, that 5 i9 at 0.32 g per decitex based on the decitex of the drau~
composite yar~.
The diameters of the two roll6 of the 6tepped tensioning roll were such that the yarn was overfed from the larger diameter roll to the smaller diameter roll at an overfeed of 3.1%. On 20 leaving the larger diameter tensioning roll, the overfed yPrn wa6 nodally interlaoed by pa66ing it through an interlaoing jet to which air was supplied at an air pressure of 60 pound6 per square inoh. ~he interlaoing jet had a yarn pas6ageway in the form of a truncated cone and two directly opposed air 25 passageways for directing air into the yarn passaeeway at right angles to the longitudinal acis of the y~rn. ~he trunoated cone form of the yarn passageway caused the major portion of the exhau~t air to pass out of the yar~ pa~sa~ew~y in the same direction as the yarn.
~he oomposite yarn 90 produoed had a deoitex of 96 a~d posse~sed latent b~-lk. ~he yarn had 86 interlaced nodes per metre (mean of 3 visual count measurements on 1 metre lengths of the yarn). ~he yarn had an initial crimp, measured as hereinbefore desoribed, of 3.4%, a meohanical crimp stability 35 of 27.0~, a breaking load of 347 centi-newtons and an extension to break of 30.~.
~.
:, ~
~ he latent bulk yarn wae knitted into fabric which was then dyed at 130C to colour the polyeeter and polyamide components differently. ~ulk was fully developed in the knitted yarn during the dyeing process. ~he fabric showed good bulk and an 5 attractive jaspe or speckled appearance.
EX~MælE 2 Example 1 was repeated except that the poly(hexamethylene adipamide) feed yarn was a 42 decitex 10 filament yarn having a birefringence of 45.5 x 10 3. ~he weight ratio of the polyester filaments to the polyamide filaments wa~ therefore 69:31.
Similar process conditions as in Example 1 were used except that the yarn tension between the gear wheel3 and the larger diameter tensioning roll was controlled at 37.5 g, that i8 at 0.35 g per decitex based on the decitex of the drawn composite yarn.
~he composite yarn 80 produced had a decitex of 107 and passessed latent bulk. ~he yarn had 85 interlaced nodes per metre (mean of 3 visu21 count measurements on 1 metre length~ of the yarn). ~he yarn had an initial crimp of 3.4%~
a mechanical crimp stability of 32.8~o, a breaking load of 370 centi-newtons a~i an extension to break of 27.5%.
~ he latent bulk yarn was knitted into fabric which was then dyed as in ~mple 1. ~ulk was fully developed in the knitted yarn during the dyeing process. ~he fabric showed good bulk and an attractive jaspe or speckled appearance.
25 EXAMPLE ~
Exa~ple 1 was repeated except that the poly(hexamethylene adipamide) feed yarn was a 56 decitex 13 filament yarn having a birefringence of 45.0 x 10 3. ~he wei~ht ratio of the polyester filaments to the polyamide filaments was therefore 63:37.
30 Similar proces3 conditions as in F~mple 1 were used except that the yarn tension between the gear wheels and the larger diameter tensioning roll was controlled at 40 ~, that is9~ at 0.34 g per decitex ba~ed on the decitex of the drawn compoeite yarn.
~he composite yarn 80 produced had a decitex of 118 35 and possessed latent bulk. ~he yarn had 85 interlaced nodes per metre (mean of 3 visual count measurements on 1 metre lengths .
~r7 ~ ~t'~ ,, of the yarn). ~he yarn had an initial orimp of 3~7%~ a me¢hanical crimp stability of 48.6%, a breaking load of 433 centi-newtons and an extension to break of 30.1%.
The latent bulk yarn was k~tted into fabric which 5 was then dyed a~ in Example 1. ~ulk was fully developed in the kn;tted yarn during the dyeins pro¢ess. ~he fabric showed good bulk and an attractive jaspe or speck1ed appearance.
EXAMæ$E 4 Example 1 was repeated except that the poly(hexa~ethylene adipamide) feed yarn was a 96 decitex 20 filament yarn having a birefringence of 46~o x 10 3. ~he weight ratio of the polyester filaments to the polyamide filaments was therefore 50 50~
Similar process conditions as in Example 1 were used except that the yarn tension between the gear wheels and the larger 5 diameter tensioning roll was controlled at 68g, that is, at o~46 g per decitex based on the decitex of the drawn compoeite yarn.
~ he composite yarn 80 produced had a decitex of 148 and possessed latent bulk. ~he yarn had 90 interlaced nodes 20 per metre (mean of 3 visual count measurements on 1 metre lengths of the y~rn). ~he yarn had an initial crimp of 4.1%, a meohanical crimp stability of 44.~, a breaking load of 523 centl-newtons and an extension to break of 27~6%~
~he latent bulk yarn was kn~tted into fabric which 25 was thsn dyed as in Example 1, Bulk was fully de~eloped in the knitted yarn during the dyeing pro¢ess. ~he fabric showed good bulk and an attraoti~e jaspe or speckled appearance.
COMP~A~IVE EXAMP$E A
Example 1 was repeated except that the following 30 conditions were used:-Feed yarns 50 decitex 22 filament drawn poly(ethylene terephthalate) yarn.
40 decitex 10 filament drawn poly(hexamethylene adipa~ide) garn.
Pin temperature 160C
' .
The crimped polyester yarn may be produced by heating a drawable polyester yarn having a birefringence in the range 32 x 10 3 to 125 x 10 3 inclusive, preferably 35 x 10 3 to 125 x 10 3 inclusive, crimping the yarn by guiding it between the intermeshing teeth of a set of toothed wheels such that the yarn is caused to follow a sharply zig-zag path, the toothed wheels being rotated at a sufficient speed such that the yarn is drawn by the tension so imparted to the yarn by the toothed wheels and subsequently forwarding the crimped yarn from the toothed wheels under a controlled tension within the range 0.15 to 0.50 g per decitex inclusive based on the . .
~ ~;j7~3~7 decitex of the drawn polyester yarn.
It has now been found possible to produce a drawn gear crimped jaspe yarn having a useful bulk. Compared with conventional false twist crimped yarns, the bulk of the gear-5 crimped y~rns according to the present invention is low;however~ the amount and nature of the bulk make the present yarns extremely suitable for the production of fabrics having desirable aesthetics.
According to the present invention, there is provided a drawn gear-crimped yarn with latent bulk characterised in that the yarn i~ a nod lly interlaced gear-crimped composite yar~ comprising polyester continuous filaments and polyamide continuous filaments in the weight ratio 90:10 to 10:90 inclusive, the gear-crimped composite yarn having an initial 15 crimp as defined herein of 2~o to 12%~ preferably ~% to 8yo~ a mechanical crimp stability as defined herein of above 0~ and having 40 to 140 interlaced nodes per metre.
Preferably the composite gear crimped yarn has been nodally interlaced to an extent such that the yarn has 70 20 to 100 nodes per metre.
According to the present invention, there is further provided a process for producing a drawn gear-crimped yarn with latent bulk characterised in that a drawable polye~ter continuous filament yarn having a birefringence of at least 25 30 x 10 3 and a drawable polyamide continuous filament yarn having a birefringence of at least 30 x 10 3~are heated and simultaneously drawn and gear crimped together as a composite yarn by means of toothed draw rolls and the composite yarn is forwarded from the toothed draw rolls under a oontrolled 30 tension within the range 0.15 to 0.50 g per decites inclusive based on the decitex of the drawn composite yarn and is subssquently interlaced to have 40 to 140 nodes per metre, the weight ratio of the polyester yarn to the polyamide yarn being in the range 90:10 to 10:90 inclusive.
Initial crimp (3K) and mechanical crimp stability (KB) are defined as follows:-:
763~7 ~ he gear crimped composite yarn with latent bulk is wound at a ten~ion of 1.0 centi-newton~ (c~) per tex to form a skein of 1 metre circu~ference and total decitex of 2500. Thus, for example, 16 wraps are required for a yarn having a deoitex of 76. ~he skein is hung and preloaded with a load of 0.01 cN per tex. ~he preloaded skein is heated at 120C for 10 minutes to develop the bulk and i9 then cooled. ~he skein is subjected to a force of 1 c~ per tex for 10 seconds and it~ le~gth (~o) 10 i8 measured. After an interval of 10 min~tes, the length of the skein iB remeasured (L1) supporting the pre-load of 0.01 c~ per tex. After an interval of 10 minutes, a force of 0.1 cN per tex is applied for 10 ~econds and ;mmediately afterwards a high force of 10 c~ per tex is applied for 10 seconds. After 20 m~utes the length of the skein is measured (L3) under the pre-load of 0.01 c~ per tex.
Tn;tial crimp (EE) = Lo~- L1 x 100Yo Mechanical crimp stability (KB)=Lo - L~ x 100%
Tn~tial crimp and mechanical crimp stability values used herein are the mean of EE and EB measurements respectively on at least 5 skeins of yarn.
~he above procedure is similar to that described in the German ~tandard DI~ 53840 and is conveniently carried out on a Texturmat machine manufactured by Herbert Stein, Munchengladbach W Germany.
Initial crimp (~E) i8 a measure of ths percentage reduotion in length from the 3traightened length of a bulked yarn as the result of the bulked structure. Meohanioal orimp stability (KB) is a measure of the proportion of bulk remaining after release of a speoified high load.
The yarns of the present invention possess a level of bulk whioh is commercially aoceptable a~d the bulk is sufficiently stable to tension. The advantages of ~uch yarns are particularly apparent in fini~hed fabrics in which the bulk -~ 7~ Y
has been developed.
~ he jaspe yarns of the present invention, when made into fabrics and dyed such as to colour the polyester and polyamide components differently, exhibit a~ attractive speckled appe æ ance. In order to achieve this appearance, it is important that the gear-crimped composite yarn has been nodally interlaced such that the ya~ has 40 to 140 nodes per metre. Composite yarns having less than 40 nodes per metre produce dyed fabrics in which undesirable streaka of each yarn component are seen.
~ he term yarn as used herein means a monofilament yarn or a multifilament yarn.
~ he drawable polyester and polyamide feed yarns are mado by melt spinning, the spinning condition3 being selected guch that both yarns have a ~imilar re~idual draw ratio.
Preferably the decitex of the drawn composite yarn is less than 150 decitex.
~ he term polyester as used herein means a polyester or a copolyester and the term polyamide means a polyamide or a copolyamide. ~he polyester and polyamide yarns may contain additives such as antioxidants, stabilisers, antistatic agents, delustrants or colouring materials.
~ he filament or filaments of the polye~ter yarn or the polyamide yar~ may have a filament cro~-section which is ciroular or non-circular for example trilobal.
~ he crimped composite yarn is forwarded from the toothed draw rolls under a preferred tension in the range 0.20 to 0.40 ~ per decitex based on the decitex of the drawn compo~ite yar~. ~orwarding the crimped composite yarn from the toothed draw rolls under a low tension of less than 0.15 g per decitex leads to problems of filamentation and yarn breaking and the yar~ tends to lick back around the toothed wheels. The use of a high tension of above 0.50 g per decitex produces a yarn having poor mechanical prrperties and a bulk which appears to be due predominently to edge crimping. Such bulk produced from edge ..
crimping does not yield useful bulk in fabrics made from the yarns. mhe amount of buLk due to true ge æ crimping, measured by EE, iB low and it~ ~tability i9 poor.
mhe drawable polyester and polyamide yarns may be heated by contact with a heated plate or a heated circul æ
pin or by passage through a tube supplied with a haated fluid such as hot air or superheated steam. ~he drawable y æn i8 preferably heated by contact with a heater at a temperature of at least 150C.
m~he toothed draw rolls may comprise two or three gear wheels one of which i8 driven and drives the other wheel or wheels. Preferably the teeth are involute in shape. Preferably the gear wheels have an integral step struoture as described in British Patent Specification ~o 1 255 478. mension sufficient to draw the y æn is exerted by pas~age of the yarn over the tips of the intermeshing teeth of the rotating gear wheels.
~ n embodiment of the invention will now be described by way of example with reference to the accompanying drawing which is a diagrammatic representation of a process according to the invention.
A drawable polyester multifilament y æn 1 having a birefringence of at least 30 x 10 3 i8 withdrawn over one e~d of cylinder 2 from a package 3 of wound y æ n. A drawable polyamide mNltifilament y æ n 4 having a birefringence of at 25 lea~t 30 x 10 3 is withdrawn over one end of cylinder 5 from a package 6 of wound yarn. Withdrawal is effected via pigtail guides 21, 22 by rotation of feed roll 9 and nip roll 7, the combined y æns being passed æound nip roll 7 a suffioient number of times to avoid slippage o~ the yarn.
Downstream of the feed roll 9 and nip roll 7 there are located intermeshiDg gear wheels 11, 12 a~d a yarn tensioDing roll 13. ~he gear wheel 12 is driven by driving gear whee} 11.
single pa~sage of the composite yarn between the intermeshing teeth of the ge æ wheels 11 and 12 induces orimp in the yarn by causing it to follow a sharply zig-zag path. ~etween the feed roll 9 and the ge æ wheels 11, 12 the yarn is passed once around 76~ ~
an electrically heated metal pin 19. ~he gear wheels 11, 12 are rotated at a sufficient speed compared to the feed roll 9 ~uch that the oomposite yarn i9 drawn by the tension exerted on it. the location of the draw point being on the heated pin 19~
Yarn tensioning roll 13 i8 a stepped roll and comprises roll 14 and roll 17 which is of smaller diameter than roll 14. Rolls 14 and 17 have associated separator rolls 15 and 16 respectfully. The crimped drawn yarn iB withdrawn from gear wheels, 11, 12 by tensioning roll 14 under a controlled tension within the range 0.15 to 0.50 g per decitex based on the decitex of the drawn composite yarn. The yarn is passed sufficient times around tensioning roll 14 and separator roll 15 to avoid slippage of the yarn. ~he tension in the yarn i9 then reduoed by passing the yarn around separator roll 16 and roll 17.
Between roll 14 &nd roll 16 the composite yarn is nodally interlaced by passing it through interlacing jet 18.
On leaving the roll 17, the yarn is wound on a ring 3pindle package 23 twist being inserted in the yarn below balloon-guide 25 by rotation of the spindle and rotation of a traveller (not shown) around ring 27.
The yarn 90 produced is 3 drawn composite yarn having latent buIk. The b~lk may be developed by subjecting the yarn in yarn or fabri¢ form, to a thermal treatment.
~he following examples illustrate but do not limit the present invention.
EU~MPIE 1 A 95 deoitex 25 filament drawable poly(ethylene terephthalate) yarn having a birefringence of 63 x 10 3 and a 27 decitex 7 filament drawable poly(hexamethylene adipamide) yarn having a birefringence of 46.6 x 10 3 were drawn and gear crimped by a prooess as shown diagrammatically in the accompanying drawing. ~he polye~ter filaments had a trilobal filament oross-seotion and the polyamide filaments had a circular filament cross-seotion. ~he weight ratio of the polyester filaments to the s ~ ~ :
,: : -:
'~
':
7~3~7 polyamide filaments was 78:22. The heated metal pin was of circular cross-6eotion having a diameter of 2.22 cm and a temperature of 170C. ~he gear wheels were made of stainless steel and had 38 teeth per inch. ~he intermeshing of the gear 5 wheels was such that the mAY;mllm overlap of teeth on the two gears was o.356 mm.
~ he speed of the gear wheel6 was adjusted such that the composite yarn was drawn by the tension imparted to the yarn between the heated pin and the gear wheels. ~he surface speed of the larger diameter ten6ioning roll was 840 metres per minute and the ratio of the 6urface speed of the larger diameter tensioning roll to the surface speed of the feed roll wa9 1.30. The yPrn tension between the gear wheels and the larger diameter tensioning roll wa~ controlled at 31 g, that 5 i9 at 0.32 g per decitex based on the decitex of the drau~
composite yar~.
The diameters of the two roll6 of the 6tepped tensioning roll were such that the yarn was overfed from the larger diameter roll to the smaller diameter roll at an overfeed of 3.1%. On 20 leaving the larger diameter tensioning roll, the overfed yPrn wa6 nodally interlaoed by pa66ing it through an interlaoing jet to which air was supplied at an air pressure of 60 pound6 per square inoh. ~he interlaoing jet had a yarn pas6ageway in the form of a truncated cone and two directly opposed air 25 passageways for directing air into the yarn passaeeway at right angles to the longitudinal acis of the y~rn. ~he trunoated cone form of the yarn passageway caused the major portion of the exhau~t air to pass out of the yar~ pa~sa~ew~y in the same direction as the yarn.
~he oomposite yarn 90 produoed had a deoitex of 96 a~d posse~sed latent b~-lk. ~he yarn had 86 interlaced nodes per metre (mean of 3 visual count measurements on 1 metre lengths of the yarn). ~he yarn had an initial crimp, measured as hereinbefore desoribed, of 3.4%, a meohanical crimp stability 35 of 27.0~, a breaking load of 347 centi-newtons and an extension to break of 30.~.
~.
:, ~
~ he latent bulk yarn wae knitted into fabric which was then dyed at 130C to colour the polyeeter and polyamide components differently. ~ulk was fully developed in the knitted yarn during the dyeing process. ~he fabric showed good bulk and an 5 attractive jaspe or speckled appearance.
EX~MælE 2 Example 1 was repeated except that the poly(hexamethylene adipamide) feed yarn was a 42 decitex 10 filament yarn having a birefringence of 45.5 x 10 3. ~he weight ratio of the polyester filaments to the polyamide filaments wa~ therefore 69:31.
Similar process conditions as in Example 1 were used except that the yarn tension between the gear wheel3 and the larger diameter tensioning roll was controlled at 37.5 g, that i8 at 0.35 g per decitex based on the decitex of the drawn composite yarn.
~he composite yarn 80 produced had a decitex of 107 and passessed latent bulk. ~he yarn had 85 interlaced nodes per metre (mean of 3 visu21 count measurements on 1 metre length~ of the yarn). ~he yarn had an initial crimp of 3.4%~
a mechanical crimp stability of 32.8~o, a breaking load of 370 centi-newtons a~i an extension to break of 27.5%.
~ he latent bulk yarn was knitted into fabric which was then dyed as in ~mple 1. ~ulk was fully developed in the knitted yarn during the dyeing process. ~he fabric showed good bulk and an attractive jaspe or speckled appearance.
25 EXAMPLE ~
Exa~ple 1 was repeated except that the poly(hexamethylene adipamide) feed yarn was a 56 decitex 13 filament yarn having a birefringence of 45.0 x 10 3. ~he wei~ht ratio of the polyester filaments to the polyamide filaments was therefore 63:37.
30 Similar proces3 conditions as in F~mple 1 were used except that the yarn tension between the gear wheels and the larger diameter tensioning roll was controlled at 40 ~, that is9~ at 0.34 g per decitex ba~ed on the decitex of the drawn compoeite yarn.
~he composite yarn 80 produced had a decitex of 118 35 and possessed latent bulk. ~he yarn had 85 interlaced nodes per metre (mean of 3 visual count measurements on 1 metre lengths .
~r7 ~ ~t'~ ,, of the yarn). ~he yarn had an initial orimp of 3~7%~ a me¢hanical crimp stability of 48.6%, a breaking load of 433 centi-newtons and an extension to break of 30.1%.
The latent bulk yarn was k~tted into fabric which 5 was then dyed a~ in Example 1. ~ulk was fully developed in the kn;tted yarn during the dyeins pro¢ess. ~he fabric showed good bulk and an attractive jaspe or speck1ed appearance.
EXAMæ$E 4 Example 1 was repeated except that the poly(hexa~ethylene adipamide) feed yarn was a 96 decitex 20 filament yarn having a birefringence of 46~o x 10 3. ~he weight ratio of the polyester filaments to the polyamide filaments was therefore 50 50~
Similar process conditions as in Example 1 were used except that the yarn tension between the gear wheels and the larger 5 diameter tensioning roll was controlled at 68g, that is, at o~46 g per decitex based on the decitex of the drawn compoeite yarn.
~ he composite yarn 80 produced had a decitex of 148 and possessed latent bulk. ~he yarn had 90 interlaced nodes 20 per metre (mean of 3 visual count measurements on 1 metre lengths of the y~rn). ~he yarn had an initial crimp of 4.1%, a meohanical crimp stability of 44.~, a breaking load of 523 centl-newtons and an extension to break of 27~6%~
~he latent bulk yarn was kn~tted into fabric which 25 was thsn dyed as in Example 1, Bulk was fully de~eloped in the knitted yarn during the dyeing pro¢ess. ~he fabric showed good bulk and an attraoti~e jaspe or speckled appearance.
COMP~A~IVE EXAMP$E A
Example 1 was repeated except that the following 30 conditions were used:-Feed yarns 50 decitex 22 filament drawn poly(ethylene terephthalate) yarn.
40 decitex 10 filament drawn poly(hexamethylene adipa~ide) garn.
Pin temperature 160C
' .
3 ~
Surfaoe speed of larger diameter tensioning roll 532 metre~ per minute Ratio of te~ion roll ~urface speed to feed roll ~urface ~peed 1.03 Yarn tension between gear wheels and tensioning roll 20g Overfeed to interlacing jet 1%
~he composite yarn ~o produced had only 31 node~ per 10 metre. Dyed fabric made from the yarn showed undesirablestreaks of each yarn component. Attempts to increa~e the extent of nodal interlaoing by increa3ing the overfeed of the yarn to the interlacing ~et led to difficulties in oontrolling the threadline at interlacing and 3till produced a d~red fabric 15 with streaks of each yarn ¢omponent.
CO~lv~i E~ B
~mple 1 was repeated except that the following conditions were used:-Feed yarns 333 deoitex 30 filament drawable poly(ethylene terephthalate) yarn of birefringence 27 x 10 3 100 decitex 20 filament draw-able poly(hexamethylene ~ipamide) yarn Ratio of tension roll surface speed to feed roll surface speed 1.9 Yarn tension between gear wheels and ten~ioning roll 46g Overfeed to interlacing jet 1%
~he composite yarn 80 produced had a decitex of 217 and had only 22 nodes per metre. I)yed fabric made from the 35 yarn showed undesirable streaks of each yarn component.
. , , - : :
.
~1.;1 ~7~i~ 7 Attempts to increase the extent of nodal interlacing by increasing the overfeed of the yarn to the interlacin~ jet still produced a dyed fabric with streaks of each yarn component.
Surfaoe speed of larger diameter tensioning roll 532 metre~ per minute Ratio of te~ion roll ~urface speed to feed roll ~urface ~peed 1.03 Yarn tension between gear wheels and tensioning roll 20g Overfeed to interlacing jet 1%
~he composite yarn ~o produced had only 31 node~ per 10 metre. Dyed fabric made from the yarn showed undesirablestreaks of each yarn component. Attempts to increa~e the extent of nodal interlaoing by increa3ing the overfeed of the yarn to the interlacing ~et led to difficulties in oontrolling the threadline at interlacing and 3till produced a d~red fabric 15 with streaks of each yarn ¢omponent.
CO~lv~i E~ B
~mple 1 was repeated except that the following conditions were used:-Feed yarns 333 deoitex 30 filament drawable poly(ethylene terephthalate) yarn of birefringence 27 x 10 3 100 decitex 20 filament draw-able poly(hexamethylene ~ipamide) yarn Ratio of tension roll surface speed to feed roll surface speed 1.9 Yarn tension between gear wheels and ten~ioning roll 46g Overfeed to interlacing jet 1%
~he composite yarn 80 produced had a decitex of 217 and had only 22 nodes per metre. I)yed fabric made from the 35 yarn showed undesirable streaks of each yarn component.
. , , - : :
.
~1.;1 ~7~i~ 7 Attempts to increase the extent of nodal interlacing by increasing the overfeed of the yarn to the interlacin~ jet still produced a dyed fabric with streaks of each yarn component.
Claims (11)
1. A drawn gear-crimped yarn with latent bulk characterised in that the yarn is a nodally interlaced gear-crimped composite yarn comprising polyester continuous filaments and polyamide continuous filaments in the weight ratio 90:10 to 10:90 inclusive, the gear-crimped composite yarn having an initial crimp as defined of 2% to 12%, a mechanical crimp stability as defined of above 0%, and having 40 to 140 inter-laced nodes per metre.
2. A gear-crimped yarn according to Claim 1 having an initial crimp of 2% to 8% inclusive.
3. A gear-crimped yarn according to Claim 1 in which the gear-crimped composite yarn has 70 to 100 nodes per metre.
4. A gear-crimped yarn according to Claims 1, 2 or 3 in which at least some of the filaments of the yarn have a non-circular cross-section.
5. A gear-crimped yarn according to Claims 1, 2 or 3 in which the polyester is poly(ethylene terephthalate).
6. A gear-crimped yarn according to Claims 1, 2 or 3 in which the polyamide is poly(hexamethylene adipamide).
7. A gear-crimped yarn according to Claims 1, 2 or 3 in which the composite yarn has a decitex of less than 150.
8. A gear-crimped yarn according to Claims 1, 2 or 3 in which bulk has been developed.
9. A fabric containing a gear-crimped yarn according to Claims 1, 2 or 3.
10. A process for producing a drawn gear-crimped yarn with latent bulk characterised in that a drawable polyester continuous filament yarn having a birefringence of at least 30 x 10-3 and a drawable polyamide continuous filament yarn having a birefringence of at least 30 x 10-3 are heated and simultaneously drawn and gear-crimped together as a composite yarn by means of toothed draw rolls and the composite yarn is forwarded from the toothed draw rolls under a controlled tension within the range 0.15 to 0.50 g per decitex inclusive based on the decitex of the drawn composite yarn and is subsequently interlaced to have 40 to 140 nodes per metre, the weight ratio of the polyester yarn to the polyamide yarn being in the range 90:10 to 10:90 inclusive.
11. A process according to Claim 10 in which the crimped composite yarn is forwarded from the toothed draw rolls under a tension in the range 0.20 to 0.40 g per decitex based on the decitex of the drawn composite yarn.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| GB8005388 | 1980-02-18 | ||
| GB8005388 | 1980-02-18 |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CA1157637A true CA1157637A (en) | 1983-11-29 |
Family
ID=10511453
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CA000370819A Expired CA1157637A (en) | 1980-02-18 | 1981-02-13 | Gear crimped jaspe yarns and processes for their manufacture |
Country Status (5)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| EP (1) | EP0034439B1 (en) |
| AU (1) | AU532968B2 (en) |
| CA (1) | CA1157637A (en) |
| DE (1) | DE3164798D1 (en) |
| ZA (1) | ZA81884B (en) |
Families Citing this family (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN113474500B (en) * | 2019-03-01 | 2023-10-27 | 株式会社钟化 | Polyester fiber having curl, method for producing same, pile fabric containing same, and method for producing pile fabric |
Family Cites Families (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| GB984922A (en) * | 1963-02-02 | 1965-03-03 | British Nylon Spinners Ltd | Improvements in or relating to drawing and crimping synthetic polymer filaments |
| GB1172361A (en) * | 1966-03-22 | 1969-11-26 | Ici Ltd | Improvements in or relating to the Crimping of Continuous Filaments |
| US3605393A (en) * | 1967-01-03 | 1971-09-20 | Owens Corning Fiberglass Corp | Apparatus and method for making bulky yarn |
| US4058968A (en) * | 1976-09-03 | 1977-11-22 | Owens-Corning Fiberglas Corporation | Bulked yarn and method of forming a bulked yarn |
| EP0011915B1 (en) * | 1978-10-27 | 1984-04-04 | Imperial Chemical Industries Plc | Improvements in or relating to gear crimped polyester yarn |
-
1981
- 1981-02-03 EP EP81300457A patent/EP0034439B1/en not_active Expired
- 1981-02-03 DE DE8181300457T patent/DE3164798D1/en not_active Expired
- 1981-02-10 ZA ZA00810884A patent/ZA81884B/en unknown
- 1981-02-11 AU AU67192/81A patent/AU532968B2/en not_active Ceased
- 1981-02-13 CA CA000370819A patent/CA1157637A/en not_active Expired
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| EP0034439A1 (en) | 1981-08-26 |
| EP0034439B1 (en) | 1984-07-18 |
| AU6719281A (en) | 1981-08-27 |
| ZA81884B (en) | 1982-02-24 |
| AU532968B2 (en) | 1983-10-20 |
| DE3164798D1 (en) | 1984-08-23 |
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