CA1043634A - Sewing apparatus - Google Patents

Abstract

PATENT APPLICATION
INVENTOR: RONALD J. BOSER
TITLE: SEWING APPARATUS

ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE
In an apparatus for sewing articles, such as sewing a slide fastener chain to an opening in an article, stitching of thread to an article is initiated by a manual control and is terminated by an automatic control in response to the sensing of a terminal point, such as the terminal point of an opening, on the article.
Article guiding facilities urge folded edge portions of an article toward each other by spring biased members on folding plates.
A scroll for receiving and guiding a folded edge portion of an article has an adjustable channel.
A linear motion apparatus, such as a dual needle holding mechanism, employs a linear motor driving a camming member which engages a locking member on a movable member to move the movable member to a selected position and to operate the locking member.

Description

i.,, BACKGRO W D OF THE INVENTION
Pield of the Inventions Thi~ invention relateq to apparatus for sewing and, in particular, to an apparatus for 8ewing ~lide fastener chain to openings of artic~es.

DescriPtion of the Prior Art:
The prior art, as exemplified by U. S. Patents No~ 3,19g,479, No. 3,200,779, No. 3,329,109, No. 3,359,931, No. 3,425,373, No. 3,442,236, No. 3,448,705, No. 3,536,020 No. 3,570,434 and No. 3,705,446, includes many apparatus or 6ewing articles including apparatus for sewing slide ¦ fa~tener chain to openings in articles. Some prior art sewing apparatus is highly automated7 however such automatic apparatu~ is usually limited to eewing a single line of etitches in a selected pattern and size on an article.
Ribbon-like materials, such as slide fasteners, to be ~ ~ewed on articles generally vary in length with each different ¦ article, making the prior art automatic apparatus impracticnl ¦ for serving such ribbon-like materials to article~. Other prior art 6ewing apparatus utilize dual stitching facilities with dual needles to speed sewing of ribbon-like materials to articles~ however ~uch dual needle ~ewing machines generally require manual operations for functions other ¦ than forming stitches. Many prior art sewing apparatus employ article guiding facilities but such facilities are . generally limitod to single ranges of thicknes6es of material.
Also dual needle sewing machines having a retractable needle, .

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.. , .. .. , .. . . .. ~ . .. . . . . . -3uch as Pfaff ~odel No. 122, are available, but the mechanisms for retracting needles are generally complex , and/or not adapted for automation: there is generally not available a linear motion apparatus which requires 5 only a small moving force along a linear direction but remains rigid against a force many times as great as the moving force along the linear direction.
SUMMARY OP THE IMVENTION
., frhe invention is summarized in an apparatus for 10 sewing a pair of tapes of a fastener chain to respective portions of an article having an opening between the portions which are joined at a terminal point at one end of the opening, the apparatus comprising a pair of mean~ each including a needle for forming stitches from a respective ,l 15 thread, means for feeding the pair of tapes and the portions 1,~ of tho article through the pair of stitch forming means to I form a pair of parallel spaced lines of stitches each fasten-i ing a tape to a respective portion, manual control means i~ for initiating operation of the pair of stitch forming means 20 and the feeding means, means for ~ensing the terminal point ¦ of the opening, and automatic control means re~ponsive to ,~ , .
~j . the ~on~ing means for terminating the operation of the pair of stitch forming means and the feeding means.
! An object of the invention is to provide automatic J 25 sewing ~pparatus for performing many sewlng functions previously pePformed by manual operations.
Another object is to automatically terminate and form a bottom stop in sf~wing a slide fastener to afn opening of fan farticle.

-3-,~1~ , ' :, 10~3f~34 It is an additional object of the invention to automate sewing of ribbon-like materials to articles by having an operator initiated cycle continue until a terminal point on an article is sensed to initiate an automatic termination cycle.
Still another object oE the invention is to provide a linear motion mechanism, such as a needle retracting mechanism in a dual needle sewing apparatus, which requires a small moving force but locks in a selected position.
A further object of the invention is to provide an adjustable guiding mechanism for folded edge portions of articles to accommodate different thickness of material or the like.
Additional features of the invention include the pro-vision of facilities for cutting a slide fastener chain inresponse to the sen~ing of a terminal point of an opening in an article; the provision of a sewing machine thread cutter utilizing bokh sewing and shearing action on t~e thread; the provision of automatic thread tension release facilities in a sewing maahine; the provision of facilities for moving the garment transverse to the normal direction of travel in a sewing machine in response to automatic control facilities; the provision of folding plates with spring biased seam closing members; the provision of a scroll member in a folder which has a adjustable concave channel; and the provision of facilities for feeding and guiding slide fastener chain to a sewing apparatus.
i Other objects, features and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the following description ,

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.. . ,.. - .: . ~- .- : . ~ . . , ., , . -; of the preferred embodiment when taken together with the accompan~ing drawings.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
Fig. 1 is a persFective view with parts broken away of a ~ewing apparatus in accordance with the invention.
Fig. 2 is a plan view of a broken away portion of a slide fastener chain to be sewed to an article by the apparatus of Fig. 1.
Fig. 3 is a plan view of a brok~n away portion of an article to which a ~ection of slide fastener chain i~
to be ~ewed by the apparatus of Fig. 1.
~ ig. 4 i9 a perspective view of a front portion broken away from the apparatus of Fig. 1 with an article eupporting cover removed.
Fig. 5 i~ a front view of a braking mechani~m partially in cross section and broken away from the apparatus of Fig. 1.
Fig. 6 is a top view partially in cro~s section including a transverse cam mechanism, a transverse article feed mechanism and presser foot lifting mechanism broken away from the apparatus of Fig. 1.
Fig. 7 iB a croes section vie~ from the right side along lines 7-7 of Fig. 6 of the transver~é cam mechanism.
FigO 8 i~ a diagram in linear form of the radius per angle o rotation from a stop position around to a next stop position of a cam of the transverse cam mechanism shown in Figs. 6 and 7.

; Fig. 9 i8 a front view of a broken away portion including a tran~ver~e article feed mochani-m of the '~ ', d~' apparatuB of Fig. 1. ~ ~
Fig. 10 i8 a ~perspective view of a dual needle ;~ 5 mechanism of the apparatu~ of Pig. 1.
Fig. 11 is a cro~ section view from the front of a needle retracting and locking mechani~m of the dual needle mechani~m shown in Fig. 16.
Fig. 12 i~ ~ view similar to Fig. 11 but reduced , 10 in ~cale and with some portion~ broken away ¦ illustrating a left needle in a rai~ed position.
¦ Fig. 13 i~ a ~per~pective view of a retractable needle holder of the needle retracting mechani~m of Fig~.
11 and 12, Plg. 14 is a ^perspectivo view of a cam of th-., ,~ no-dle retracting mechanism of Figo. 11 and 12.
Fig. 15 is a perspectivo view of a detent bar ~; of the noedlo retracting mechanism of Pigs. 11 and 12.
'`~ Pig. 16 i8 a per~pectivo view of a prosser foot u ~ 20 upport and upper left and right thread cutting and retaining m chaniem brokon away from the apparatus of Fig. 1.
~ Fig. 17 i~ a sido view partially in cro~s ~ection ,~ ....
of a portion of the upper left thread cutting and retaining ' mochaniom ~hown in Fig. 16 in a first position.
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;, 2S Fig, 18 is a plan view of broken away portions oif the upper loft and right thread cutting mochani~mo ohown Fig.~16 in second position~.

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Fig. 19 is a plan view of a broken away portion of upper left and right needle thre~lsna~g~n~ ~ of the ~h~d cutting mechanism ~hcwn in Figs. 16 and 18 in third position~
Fig. 20 is a detailed cro~s section view of the left upper thread cutting and retaining mechani~m of Fig. 17 in a fourth position.
Pig. 21 is a view similar to Fig. 20 illustrating a fifth position of the left upper thread cutting and retain-ing mechanism.
Fig. 22 i8 a top view of a zero rocking feed motion mechanism broken away from the sewing apparatus of Fig. 1.
Fig. 23 is a perspective view of a feed dog dropping mechanism broken away from the apparatus of Fig. 1 in a fir8t position.
Fig. 24 is a side view of the feed dog dropping mechanism of Fig. 23 in a second position.
Fig. 25 is a side view of a thread tension releasing mechanism broken away from the apparatus of Fig. 1.
Fig. 26 in a bottom view o a folding plate with a spring biased seam closing member broken away from the appara-tus of Fig. 1.
Fig. 27 is a side view from the right of an article terminal point sensing arm, article guiding mechanism, fasten-er chain and sensing and guiding mechanism and lower left and right thread cutting mechaniem broken away from the apparatus of Fig. 1.
Fig. 28 iB a perspective view of the article guiding mechanism, the fastener chain end sensing and guiding ~.~

10~3~;34 mechanism and the lower left and right thread cutting mechanism shown in Fig. 27.
Fig. 29 i~ a cross ~ection view from t~e front of the article guiding mechani~m ~hown in Figs. 27 and 28.
Fig. 30 is a detail cross section view from the bottom of a scroll channel adjusting mechanism broken away from article guiding mechani~m shown in Figs. 28 and 29.
Fig. 31 is a detailed cross ~ectlon view from the right of the ~croll channel adjusting mechanism of Fig. 30.
Fig. 32 is a top view of the fastener chain end seneing and guiding mechanism shown in Fig. 28.
Fig. 33 is a detail cross section view of the fastener chain end sensing and gui~ing mechanism along I line 33-33 of Fig. 32.
I lS Fig. 34 is a top view of the lower left and rlght thread cutting mechanism~ shown in Ftg. 28.
Fig. 3S is a detailed cro~s section view of the lower left thread cutting mechanism taken along lino 35-35 of Fig. 34.
Fig. 36 is a cross section view taken from the right of a fastener chain cutting mechanism broken away from apparatus of Fig. 1. !' Fig. 37 i9 a detail cros~ section view of fastener chain cutting blade~ taken along line 37-37 of Fig. 36.
Fig. 38 i8 a detail cross section view of fastener chain cutting die blocks taken along line 38-38 of Pig. 36.
' Fig. 39 is a side cross section view from the I right of a tape feeding and guiding mechanism and fastener ., .
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10~3634 chain fault sensing mechanism broken away from the apparatus of Fig. l.
Fig. 40 is a detail cross section view of the tape feeding and guiding mechanism taken along line 40-40 in Fig. 39.
Fig. 41 is a bottom view of the fastener chain fault sensing mechanism shown in Fig. 39.
Fig. 42 is a diagram of an electrical control circuit of the apparatus of Fig. l.
FIg. 43 is a cross section view of a five port pneumatic valve illustrating principles of various five port valves employed in the apparatus of Fig. 1 with a valve member in a first position.
Fig. 44 is a view similar to Fig. 43 but illustrating a second position of the valve member.
I Fig. 45 is a cross section view of a seven port pneumatic valve illustrating principles of various seven port valves employed in the apparatus of Fig. l with a valve member in a first position.
, Fig. 46 is a view similar to Fig. 45 but illustrating a second positi~n of the valve member.
Fig. 47 is a cross section view of a shuttle valve illustrating principles of various shuttle valves employed in the apparatus of Fig. l with a valve member in a first position.
, Fig. 48 is a view similar to Fig. 47 but illustrating a second position of the valve member.
Fig. 49 is a cross section view of an impulse valve illustrating principles o various impulse valves _g_ . ~

10~3634 employed in the apparatus of Fig. 1 with small and large I pistons in first positions.
Fig. 50 is a view similar to Fig. 49 but illustrating the small piston in a second position.
Fig. 51 is a view similar to Figs. 49 and 50 but illustrating the large piston in a~e~d position.
Fig. 52 is a diagram of a first portion of a pneumatic control circuit of the apparatus of Fig. 1.
Fig. 53 is a diagram of a second port'ion of the pneumatic control circuit of the apparatus of Fig. 1.
Fig. 54 is a top view of the article of Fig.
3 in a first position in the apparatus of Fig. 1.
Fig. 55 is a cross section view of the article of Fig. 3 in a second position in the apparatus of Fig, 1.
, lS Fig. 56 is a top view of the article of Fig. 3 in ! the second position and a section of the fastener chain of Fig.
¦ 2 in a first position in the apparatus of Fig. 1.
Fig. 57 is a top view of the article of Fig. 3 in a third position and the section of the fastener chain of Fig. 2 in a second position where the section has been severed in the apparatus of Fig. 1.
¦ Fig. 58 is a top view of the article of Fig. 3 in a fourth position and the severed section of the fastener chain of Fig. 2 in a third position in the apparatus of Fig.
1, Fig. 59 is a top view of the article of Fig. 3 and the severed section of the fastener of Fig. 2 in the same , ~ , positions as in Fig. 5~ but ater transverse feeding and the forming o transver~e lines of ~titche~.
Fig. 60 i~ a cro~ section view of the article of Fig. 3 and the severed ection fa~tener chain of Fig.
2 taken along line 60-60 of Fig 59.
Fig. 61 i~ a top view of the article of Fig. 3 with the attached severed section of fa~tener chaln of Fig. 2 and an assembled slider.
Fig. 62 i8 a top view with an alternate article between folding plate~ of the apparatu~ of ~ig. 1.
Fig. 63 i8 a view ~imilar to Fig. 62 but illustrat-ing a ~econd position of the alternate article between the folding plates.

As illu~trated in Fig. 1, the lnvention i~ embodled in a sewing apparatus which include3 a sewing machine indicated generally at 64, ~uch a~ model 212 G 141 from the Singer Manufactùring Company, mounted on a table 65 and driven by a motor 66 through a V-belt 67. The ~ewing apparatu~ is designed to sew a section of a ribbon-like materlal, ~uch as a fa~tener chain indicated generally at 68 in Pig. 2, to an article, ~uch a~ a garment indicated generally at 69 in Fig. 3. The article 69, ha~ two portions 70 and 71 which are joined at a seam 72 which terminate~
at point 73. Above the terminal point 73, the portion~
form a opening indicated generally at 74. Seam allowance~
1 75 and 76 are folded back under the adjoining edges of the ¦ portions 70 and 71. The fastener chain 68 has cloth Il tapes 77 and 78 to which respectivQ interlocking set~ of A

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fastener elements 79 and 80 are secured. The cloth tapes 77 and 78 are to be sewn to the respective portions 70 and 71 on opposite sides of the opening 74.
A suitable cover 81 on the table 65 in front of

5 the machine 64 has a smooth upper surface allowing the article to be easily feed to the machine. Below the cover, as shown in Fig. 4, a fastener chain feeding and guiding mechanism, indicated generally at 82, is mounted below the top of the table 65 and curves upward into a recess 83 10 in the table 65. An article guiding mechanism indicated generally at 84 is mounted above a base 85 of the sewing machine 64 in front of a feed dog 86 and a presser foot 87 (Fig. 1) of the sewing machine. A terminal point sensing mechanism indicated generally at 88 is mounted 15 in front of the article guiding mechanism 84 while a fastener chain cutting mechanism indicated generally at 89 is mounted below the sensing mechanism 88 and in series with the end of the fastener chain feeding and guiding mechanism 82. A housing indicated generally at 90 below the article 20 guiding ~nechaniæm 84 contains portions of a fastener chain end sensing and guiding mechanism and lower left and right ~ thread cutting mechanisms.
; Modifications to the sewing machine 64, as shown in Fig. 1, include a disc brake mechanism indicated generally 25 at 91 a needle holding and retracting mechanism indicated generally,: at 92 supporting needles 93 and 94 such that the needle 93 is retractable, a thread tension release mechanism ~ indicated generall~,? at 95, and upper left and right thread : :
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~043634 cutting mechanisms indicated generally at 96. Additionally, transverse feed camming mechanism, indicated generally at 100, i8 mounted on the rear of the sewing machine 64 and i8 connected to a transverse feed mechanism indicated S generally at 102. A manual control treadle 104 is pivotally mounted between the legs of the table 65 and pivotally joined to a connecting rod 105. A knee operated valve indicated generally at 106 is mounted below the front edge of the top of the table 65. An automatic control which includes both pneumatic and electrical control circuits i8 indicated generally at 108, on the right side of the table. A purchased motor control circuit unit 110 iH also mounted on the right side of the table.
As illustrated in Fig. 5, a brake disc 112 and a cog pu~ley 114 are attached to a V-belt pulley 116 driven by the belt 67. A cog belt 118 connect~ the cog pulley 114 to a cog pulley 120 mounted on a shaft 122 of the camming mechanism 100. The cog pulleys 116 and 120 are the same size to drive the shaft 122 in synchronism with the sewing machine 64. The brake mechanism 91 which is mounted on the sewing machine 64 has a groove 124 into which the brake disc 112 extends between a pair of brake shoes 126. At least one o~ the brake shoes is mounted upon a piston rod 128 extending from a cylinder 130 which contains a piston 132. A ~pring 134 biases the piston 132 and the brake shoe 126 away from thc brake disc 114 while a pa6sageway 136 is provided to the right end of cylinder 130 for supplying air to ~orce the piston 132 and brake shoe 126 again~t the brake di~c 112.

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The transverse feed aam mechani-sm 100, a8 .
illustrated in Figs. 6 and 7! include~ a housing 138 in which the shaft 122 i9 suitably mounted for rotation. The shaft 122 has a worm ~crew 140 mating with a warm wheel 142 ~-, 5 which iq connected to a hollow ~h ft member 144 rotatably mounted by bearing~ 146, 148 and 150 within the housing 138. The lower end of the hollow ~haft member 144 has a horizontally prDjecting portion 152 with an engaging member, ~uch as pin 154, projecting from the lower surface thereof for engaging one of a plurality of engaging members, such as holee 156, on the upper surface of a cam lSB. An upper , journal portion 160 of the cam 158 is slidably and rotatably mounted by a bearing 162 within the hollow ~haft member 144.
A lower journal portion 164 of the cam 158 iB ~lidably and 1~ rotatably mounted by a bearing 166 within the hou~ing 138.
An engaging member, such as a pin 168, mounted on the .
houeing 138 projects upward therefrom for engaging an engaging member, such as a hole 170, on the bottom of the cam 158. Alternately, teeth, lug~, etc. can be employed as engaging members 154, 156, 168 and 170. An air cylinder 172 ha- a p1ston rod 174 extendlng co~ially and slidably through the worm wheel 142, the hollow shaft 144 and the cam ; 158, and iB secured to a clevis 176 which i~ vertically ~ecured to a thrust bearing 178 on the lower journal portion 164 of the cam 158 for raising and lowering the cam 158.
A valve 180 mounted in the housing 138 has a spring ; biased and pivoted arm 182 with a roller 184 engaging the under side n-ar the outer edge of the cam 158 for operating , , , --14- ~ - ==
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,~, when the cam 158 is raised and lowered. A valve 186 also mounted in the housing 138 has a spring biased operator member 188 with a roller 190 spaced such that the roller 190 is engaged by a lower cam projection 192 formed on the underside toward the center of the cam 158 at a specified angle of rotation of the cam 158. The outer periphery of the cam 158 is engaged by a cam follower 196 mounted on a lever 197 which is pivoted at a point 198 on a projection 199 of the housing 138. The lever 197 and cam follower 196 are biased against the cam 158 by a piston rod 200 extending from an air cylinder 201 mounted on the housing 138. The outer periphery of the cam 158 is machined so as to move the plate 226 and the presser foot 87 in steps or increments ~imed inbetween the period when the needles 93 and 94 are down to provide the desired transverse movement of the material in the sewing apparatus as illustrated in Fig. 8.
Large steps 202 and 203 are formed to avoid the insertion of the right needle 94 in the area of the fastener elements 79 and 80 (Fig. 2) of the fastener chain 68. There is only one hole 170 and one projection 192 on the bottom of the cam 158 for each complete transverse cycle formed on the cam 158.
A top dead center sensing mechanism,as shown in Fig. 6, includes a position disc 205 mounted on the shaft 122. The disc 205 has a radially formed slot 206 and is positioned between open aligned ends of tube sections 207 and 208. The disc 205 has an angular alignment relative to the shaft 122 such that the slot 206 will be position ! !;

10436~4 between the open ends of the tub- s-ctions 207 and 20e - when the needles 93 and 94 (Pig. 1) and a thread take up lèver 209 (Fig. 1) are in their top dead center poJitions.
The transverse fèed mechanism 102, as illustrated 5 in Fig~. 6 and 9, includes a shaft 210 slidabl~ mounted in aupport~ 212, 214 and 216 attached to the sewing machine. !
64. A pair of flange~ 218 and 220 mounted on the shaft 210 are engaged by a cam follower 222 on an end of the lever 197 between the flanges 218 and 220 for moving the shaft 210.
10 A bracket 224 joins the ~haft 210 to a transverae feed plate i 226 which i~ slidably mounted on the base B5 o the sewing machine by a plate 230 ~ecured to the base BS by sCreWEI
232 through a slot 234 formed in tho pl~te 226. The plato 226 extenas over and haB openingB 236 aligned with ~- 15 op-ning~ in a feed dog throat plate 23~ and thei,~eed dog 86 of the ~ewing machine 64.
A brack-t 242 is secured to the shaft 210 and to a block 244 ~ich, as shown in Pig. 16 has a pair of vertical bores 246 and 247 slidably receiving guide shafts 248 and 249 20 mounted on a foot aupport block 250. A horizontal slot 252 in the block 250 slidably receives a pin 254 secured to the end of a pr~i-ser bar rod 256 of the sewing machine 64. The pres~er foot 87 is pivotally mounted on a bracket 260 whlch i is secured by screws 262 to the foot support block 250. Th-: ~ .
25 pre-sor foot 87 has an opening 264 to accommodate rocklng movement of ~he needles 93 and 94 (Fig. 1) as well as trans-ver~e mov_ent of the pr-6ser f~t 87 with reapect to th- right needle 94 ~Fig. 1).

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'10~3~34 Referring to Fig. 6, a presser bar lifting lever 266 which i6 pivoted at point 268 within the machine 64 is connected to a piston rod 271 (Fig. 52) extending from ; a presser foot lift air cylinder 270 mounted on top of the ~ewing machine 64. The pi~ton rod 271 iB normally spring biased to a retracted po~ition until air pressure is applied to the air cylinder 270. The lever 266 engages the pres~er bar 256 (Fig. 16) which i~ spring biased,downward, the engagement and biasing (both not ~hown) being in a conventional manner.
The needle holding and retracting mechani~m 92, a~ illustrated in Fig. 10, has a tubular needle bar 274 which elidably extend~ through the vertical bores 276 and 278 of a needle bar rocker frame 280 which is mounted for oscillation through an angle in a conventional manner. A needle bar connecting ~tud 282 mounted on the tubular need~e bar 274 i~
pivota'lly connected to one end o a needle bar connecting link 284 which is pivotally connected at its other end to a needle bar crank 286 which is rotatably mounted in a con-ventional manner in the sewing machine 64 ~Fig. 1). Airhoses or conduit~ 288 and 290 are suitably connected in communication with a linear reciprocal motor or`an air cylinder portion, indicatéd generally at 292, of the tubular shaft 274. As shown in Figs. 11 and 12, an air piston 294 ~lidably mounted within the cylinder portion 292 has a piston rod 296 extending through a dividing ~eal portion 297 and threaded at its lower end to a coupling member 298 which has a cam 300 ~ecured thereto by a pin 302. The aam 300 A
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1043634 :

selectively engages movable locking elements or member~
such as steel balls 304 and 306, slidably mounted within a retractable needle holder indicated generally at 308 which is elidable within a vertical slot 309 in the tubular bar 274. A non-retractable needle holder 310 and a detent bar, indicated generally at 312, are 6ecured to the lower end of the tubular ~haft 274 by a pin 314. The non-retract-able needle holder 310 has a ~uitable needle receiving cavity 315 extending vertically from the bottom of the holder 310 1, 10 which also has a threaded bore 316 with a set screw 317 ¦ (Fig. 12), retaining the needle 94 in the cavity 315.
As shown in Fig. 13, the retractable needle ¦ holder 308 has a cylindrical section 318 sectioned longitudinally to form a flat 320, and a lower plate like portion 322. A vertically extending groove or slot 324 i8 formed from the flat 320 into the cylindrical portion 318 , and extending into the plate like portion 322. Horizontal ! recesses or bores 326 and 328 having d~a~*ers larger than the width of the slot 324 are formed from the flat 320 into ~ 20 the cylindrical portion 318 with the Qlot 324 bisecting the I ; boree sucb that horizontal grooves are formed in the walls ! of the slot 324 t~ slidably receive and vertica~ly retain the eteel balls 304 and 306 (P~g. 11). A suitable needle receiving cavity 330 extend~ from the bottom edge of the plate member 322 and a threaded bore 332 extends from the edge of the plate member into the cavity 330 or receiving a eet screw 331 ~F~g. 12) to retain the needle 93 in the retractable needle holder 308.

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1()4363~

The cam 300, as illustrated in Fig. 14, has a generally flat configuration de~igned to slide within the ~lot 324 of the retractable needle holder 308 of Fige. 11 and 13. The cam 300 has a V-shaped cam portion 336 which has a lower sloping face 338 for engaging the ball 306 (Fig. 11) to urge the steel ball 306 downward and outward in the bore 328, when the piston 294 is urged downward. Similarly, i an upper 810ping face 340 of the V-~haped portion 336 is such that it engages the steel ball 304 to urge the steel ball 304 upward and outward when the piston 294 is urged upward.
The detent bar 312, ~hown in detail in Fig. 15 includes the dividing seal portion 297, a central portion 348 sectioned longitudinally from a cylinder to form a flat 350which mates with the flat 320 (Fig. 13) of the retractable needle holder 308, and a lower cylindrical portion 352 having a slot 354 for receiving the plate like portion 322 (Fig. 13) of the retractable needle holder 308.
Recesses or bores 356 and 358 are fonmed horizontally in the central portion 348 from the flat 350 and have diameters which are sufficiently smaller than the diameters of the respectivo balls 304 and 306 (Fig. 11) and the`bores 326 and 328 (Fig~ 13) such that rounded right end portions of the balls 304 and 306 will protrude into the re~pective bores 2S 356 and 358 and engage the opening edge~ of the bores 356 and 358 at an angle inclined to the axis of the tubular bar 274.
As illustrated in Fig. 11 and 12, the hDrizontal . .
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1043~;34 projecting width of the camming portion 338, the horizontal depth of the slot 324 and the diameter of the steel balls 304 and 306 are selected such that the steel balls 304 and 306 will retain the cam 300 in the ~lot 324 when the cam is moved upward or downward with the steel balls 304 and 306 slidingly engaging the flat 350 inbetween the bores 356 and 358.
The upper left and rightcutting mechani~mq 96 are illustrated in Figs.16, 17, 18, 19, 20 and 21, and referring first to Figs. 16 and 17,have a supporting member 35~ and a supporting plate 360 secured to the rear of the foot support block 250 by screws 362. A left upper thread ~, cutter has a lower support and guide member 364 and an upper eupport and guide member 366 secured within a slot 368 of the eupporting member 358 by a set screw 370. The lower support and guide member 364, has a channel 372 which matee with a channel 374 in the upper support guide member for enclosing a lower snagging blade 376, a cutting blade 378 and an upper snagging blade 380. The cutting blade 378 has a wing portion 382 which extends through appropriate machined portions of the upper and lower membere 364 and 366 around to the bottom of the lower member 365 where a screw 384 in a longitudinal slot 386 (Fig. 18) of the wing Fortion 382 eecuree 1 the blade 37~ to the lower guide member 364. An air cylinder j 25 390 is suitably secured to the mounting plate 360 and has a piston rod 392 with a pin 394 secured to the rear ends ~
the snagging blades 376 and 380. A~ ~hown in ~ig. 18 the right thread cutter has a lower support and guide member 396 and an upper support and guide member 398 (Fig. 16)for j -20-~ ;, , , ~ ..

1043634 ~ :
enclosing a lower ~nagging blade 402 and an upper snagging blade 404 with a cutting blade 406 sandwiched between the ~nagging blades 402 and 404. A wing portion 408 Of the cutting blade 406 is secured to the lower guide member 396 in a manner similar to the wing portion 382 of the cutting blade 378. An air cylinder 409 ~Fig.16) has a piston rod (not shown) attached to the rear ends of the snagging blades 402 and 404 in a manner similar to the piston rod 392 of air cylinder 390 and snagging blades 376 and 380.
Referring to Figs. 18 and 19, the left pair of snagging blades 376 and 380 and the right pair of snagging blades 402 and 404 have respective curved camming edges 410 '.
and 411 which are designed to cam respective upper threads 414 and 416 toward each other as the blades are moved into lS engagement with the thread~ 414 and 416. ~ook portione ¦ 418 and 420 are formed in the respective pairs of snagging ',: blades 376, 380, 402 and 404 such that the threade 414 and 416 are snagged or hooked upon the advancement of the snagging I blades. Knife or severing edges 422 and 424 of the ¦ 20 cutting blades 378 and 406 are formed on the forward edges I of the cutting blades 378 and 406 and extend at n angle to I the direction of movement of the snagging blades 376 and 380, 402 and 404 such that camming forces are applied to the threads 414 and 416 by the severing edges 422 and 424 to..maintain the threads 414 and 416 within the hook portions 418 and 420 while the threads are dragged or drawn along the severing '~ edges 422 and 424. The knife edges 422 and 424 are formed such that they cut the threads 414 and 416 by a ehearing ! -21-., ~ ,, `.j_ ' action (~ee Fig. 20) between the knife edges422 and 424 and the hook portions 418 and 420 of the upper snagging blades 380 and 404 as well a~ a scraping or tearing action of the threads 414 and 416 as the hook portions 418 and 420 retract to a position back of the severing edges 422 and 424.
V-shaped grooves 425 and 426 are formed in the forward ends of the respective lower support members 364 and 396 below the hook portions 418 and 420 to allow the severed ende of the threads extending from the article to fall freely from the upper thread cutting mechanisms.
As illustrated in Figs. 16, 17, 20, and 21, a ¦ thread retaining element 428 is m~bly nounted to the ~r guide ¦ member 366 by a ecrew 430 and a spring 432 which is disposed 7 between the head of the screw 430 and the upper ~urface of ! 15 the thread retaining element 428. A forward portion 434 of l the thread retaining element 428 extends forward and downward I from the forward edge of the upper guide member 366 and ie biased by the spring 432 into engagement with the upper ~i thread snagging blade 380 such that the severed end of the thread 414 extending from the left needle 93 (Fig. 1) is gripped or retained between the element 420 and the snagging , blade 380. A similar thread retaining element 435, ecrew , ~ and epring (not shown) are secured to the upper guide member ; 398 of the right upper thread cutter for gripping the severed Z5 end of the thread 416 from the right needle 94 (Fig, 1). The thread retaining elements are designed to retain the threads extending from the needles 93 and 94 with retaining force eufficient~y great that movement of the needlee does not ~, ' , ~ -22-. , 1043~34 pull the thread out of the thread retaining elements until aqain stitched to an article.
Fig. 22 showA a modification which is made to the normal feed reversing mechanism for the rocking feed movement of the feed dog 86 (Fig. 4) and the needles 93 and 94 (Fig, 1). The reversing mechanism indicated generally at 440 i~ part of the purchased sewing machine and through appropriate toggle linkage ~not herein described) connects i a feed driving eccentric 442 operated by a bobbin or hook driving shaft 444 to a feed driving rock shaft crank arm 446 attached to a feed driving rock shaft 448 to produce o~cillating motion of the ~haft 448 and simultaneous rocking feed movement of the needles and feed dog. The revereing mechani~m 440 has a feed reversing shaft 450 to which an arm ' 15 452 i~ attached for rotation between a forward feed po~ition and a reverse feed po~ition. The modification includee a plate 456 ~uitably attached to the underside of ba~e 85 of tho eewing machine with an air cylinder 458 pivotally attached to the plate 456. A piston rod 460 extending from the air cylinder 458 is pivotally attached by a pivot 462 to the arm 452 for rotating the arm 452. A bracket 464 mounted on the plate 456 ha~ an ad~ust3ble bolt or threaded ~top m~*er 466 aligned for being en~d by piUDt 462 to detno~ne the le~h and t of the piston rod 460. lhe pDsition of the stop m~*~r 466 i~ ~le~d ~D
pnohxe a zerD feed rabe for the feeddcgsand needle when the air piston rod 460 i~ advanced. The attachment to the arm 452 is made such that~ when the piston 460 is retracted, an articIe is fed by rocking movement of the feed dog ~6 and .

~- 1043634 : needles 93 and 94 in a forward direction from the front to the rear of the sewing machine by the oscillating ,: movement of the feed driving rock shaft 448.
A mechanism for dropping the feed dog 86 out of engagement with the material is.illustrated in Figs. 23 and 24. The feed dog 86 is mounted on a feed bar coupling or frame 470 which is pivotally connected to a crank portion 471 of the feed driving rock shaft 448. A bracket 472 mounted on the feed frame 470 by a screw 473 extends downward through a slotted opening 474 in a drop feed follower insert 476 and has an enlarged lower portion 478 which slidably supports the follower insert 476. A feed dog dropping air cylinder 480 is mounted on the drop feed follower insert and has a piston rod 481 which is secured to the bracket 472 for moving the drop feed follower in~ert 476. A drop feed cam follower 482 mounted on.the feed frame 470 extends above a feed lifting eccentric or cam 483 which is mounted on the hook driving shaft 444 while a drop feed spring plate 484 pivotally mounted on the cam follower 482 by a pin 485 is biased by.a spring 486 mounted on the bottom portion 478 . .
of the bra.cket 472 against the bottom of the cam 483. The drop feed follower insert 476 has a return portion 487 which is curved upward and backwardly below the drop feed cam follower 482 and has an inclined end 488 which allows insert-. 25 ion of the return portion 487 between the drop feed cam ,: follower 482 and the cam 483 when the piston rod 481 is advanced relative to the air cylinder 480 and withdrawal of the return portion 487 from between the drop feed cam follower ,' , ~.

~0~36~4 : 4B2 and the cam 483 when the pi~ton rod 4~1 iB retracted relative to the air cylinder 480. The return portion 487 has a thickness designed to raise the feed dog 86 to a po~ition where it can en~age and advance an article beneath the presser oot 87 when the return portion 487 is inserted and to allow the feed dog 86 to drop to a position where it will not engage an article when the return portion 487 is : withdrawn.
Referring to Pig. 1, the upper threads 414 and 416 extend from respective bobbins 489 and 490 on a stand 491 mounted on the rear of the table 65 through guides 492 and 493, a thread tension mechanism indicated generally at 494, the thread take up lever 209, guides 495 and 496 to the needlee 93 and 94. The thread tension release mechanism 494 lS includee a bracket 498 mounted on the eewing maçbine 64 and an air cylinder 500 mounted on the bracket 498. A
piston rod 502 extending from the air cylinder 500 is connect-ed to a camming arm 504 which has a camming portion 506, as ehown in Fig. 25, extending behind a teneion releaee lever 508 which operates tension release plungere 510 and 512 of the thread tension mechanism 494 such that when the piston i rod 502 is extended, the tension mechani~m ie released, and when the piston rod 502 is retracted, the tension mechaniem 494 is rendered operative. Referring back to Pig. 1, a I 25 thread slack member 515 i8 mounted on the camming arm 504 j and has a looped end 516 extending around the threads 414 and 416 between the guides 495 and 496 for drawing additional slack in the threado 414 and 416.

_25-. .

-10~3634 :.-.
The article guiding mechanism 84, as shown in Fig. 28, includes a plate 518 suitably secured to the housing 90. Brackets Sl9 and 520 on the plate 518 support a slide guide plate 521 which, as shown in Figs. 27, 28 and 29 have grooves 522 and 523 having dovetail cross sections slidably containing slide bars 524 and 525 with mating dovetail cross sections. Spacing plates 526 and 527 are adjustably secured to the respective slide bars 524 and 525 by screws 528 and 529 extending through slotted openings 530 and 531 in the respective spacing plates 526 and 527.
Seam folding plates 532 and 533 are adjustably mounted on the respective spacing plates 526 and 527 by screws 534 and 535 which have head portions recessed within slots 536 and 537 in the folding plates 532 and 533. The folding plates 532 and 533 are mounted to slide in the same plane toward and away from each other and have seam closing members or tips 539 and 540 mounted on respective springs 541 and 542 (the latter shown in Fig. 26) secured within recesses 543 and 544 on the under side of the respective folder p~ates 532 and 533. The seam closing members 539 and 540 extend forward and inward toward each other to the rear of a double adjustable scroll indicated generally at 545.
Referring to Fig. 4, the folding plates 532 and 533 are connected by pivot pins 546 and 547 to respective links 548 and 549 (the latter shown as two joined portions) which are connected by pivot pins 551 and 552 to respective ends of a lever 553 which is pivotally mounted at its center I~.
, -26-'. '' " '. .' ' ,' ~' ' ; ,'' ' ' . ~ : :

~043634 by a pin 554 on the base 85 of the sewing machine. An air cylinder 556, suitably mounted on the base 83, has a - piston rod 557 which is attached by a pivot pin 558 to one end of the lever 553 for pivoting the lever 553 about the pivot pin 554 to move the folding plates 532 and 533 toward or away from each other.
As shown in Fig. 28, the double scroll 545 includes left scroll portions 560 and 561 and right scroll portions 562 and 563 suitably secured at their front ends to a block 564 which is suitably mounted on the slide guide plate 521.
As illustrated in Fig. 29, the scroll portion 560 and 561 are curved to form a concave surface which forms a left seam allowance receiving channel 566,and the scroll portion 562 and 563 are curved to form a concave surface which forms a right seam allowance receiving channel 567. The scroll portions 560, 561, 562 and 563 are made from a suitable flexible spring like material and extend in a cantilever manner toward the rear.
A mechanism for adjusting t~e size or capacity of the channels 566 and 567 at the rear ends of the scroll portions 560, 561, 562, and 563 is:illustrated in Figs. 29, 30 and 31. A block 569 mounted by screws 570 on the slide guide plate 521 has bifurcations 571 and 572 extending between the left scroll portions 560 and 561 and the right scroll portions 562 and 563 with a plate 573 secured by screws 574 to the ends of the bifurcations 571 and 572. An upper clamping member 575 and a lower clamping member 576 are slidably mounted within a vertical guideway formed by the block 569, the bifurcations 571 and 572 and the plate .

, "'~ , "

10~3~j34 573. The clamping members 575 and 576 are biased toward each other by tension springs 577 suitably secured by pins 578 in the clamping members 575 and 576 and the bifurations 571 and 572, The upper clamping member 575 has horizontally extending wing portions 579 and 580 with respective inclined edges 581 and 582 engaging the upper scroll p~ tions 561 and 563. Similarly, the lower clamping member 576 has horizontally extending wing portions 583 and 584 with upward facing respective inclined edges 585 and 586 engaging the lower scroll portions 560 and 562.
An adjusting screw 587 in a threaded opening 588 in the plate 573 has a tapered end 589 engaging inner camming surfaces 590 and 591 of the respective upper and lower clamping members 575 and 576. The springs 577 are selected to provide sufficient tension force to bend the free rear ends of the scroll portions 560, 561, 562 and 563 to make the channels 566 and 567 smaller at their rear ends.
Referring to Fig. 29, the inward end of the slide bar 524 has an inclined edge 592 for engaging a mating downward,facing inclined edge 593 on the wing portion 583 of the lower clamping member 576 such that the folding plate 532, when closed, extends into the,channel a distance deter-mined by the adjustment of the clamping members 575 and 576.
Similarly the inward end of the slide bar 525 has an inclined edge 594 for engaging a mating downward facing inclined edge 595 on the wing portion 584 of the lower clamping member 576.
As illustrated in Fig. 4 a left frame 596 and a right frame 597 are suitably secured to the top of t~e table : 10~3634 65 and the base 85 for supporting the cover ~1 ~F~g 1).
The frame 596 has a threaded opening 598 while the frame 597 has a threaded opening 599 for receiving respective ; thumb screws 600 (only one shown in Fig. 1) to securethe cover 81 to the frames 596 and 597.
The article terminal point ~en~ing mechanism ~8 includes a sensing arm 601 mounted on a shaft 602 rotatably eupported within a tubular bearing member 603 which ie eecured to a plate 604 mounted on the frame 597. The shaft 602 has cam 605 mounted thereon which i9 engaged by cam follower rod 606 ~lidably supported on a bearing guide member 607 and which operate~ an electrical switch 608.
A coupling 609 joine the end of the shaft 602 to a flexible ehat 610 connected to an arm 611 rotatable mounted in a houeing 612 containing an air valve 613. A manual lever 614 ie secured to the flexible shaft 610 and the air valve 613 ' i8 diepoeed relative to the arm 611 eo as to be operated whenthe manual lever 614 is rotated fully toward the front.
As illu~trated in Fig. 27 an end 615 of the eensing arm 601 i8 ormed at a diagonal ~uch that it mates with a prnjection 616 extending toward the front from the i block 564 (Fig. 28) when the arm 601 is rotate~ to its rearmoet position. The upper edge or surface 617 of the arm 601 ex~e above the front of the block 564 and ~croll 545 such that the article 69 will be lifted above the block 564 and scroll 545.
Referri g back to Fig. 28, the housing 90 includes an upper fastener chain guiding and sensing plate 620, a ,, . ;, , -29-k~'i , ,` .

10~3634 - lower fa~tener guiding and sensing plate 622, an upper lower thread cutting plate 624 and lower thread cutting plate 626 which are all ~uitably mounted together to the base 85 (Fig. 4) of the sewing machine. The fastener chain guiding and ~en~ing plateB 620 and 622 have their mating surfaces machined to form a fastener chain guiding passageway 628 extendir~ therethrough from ~he front to the rear in front of the presser foot 87 (Fig. 1). As shown in Fig. 32, a bar 630 i~ ~lidably mounted within a guideway 632 machined 10 in the mating surfaces of plates 620 and 622 and has a thumb screw 634 ~Fig. 28) which extends through a slot 636 in the upper plate 620 for securing the slide bar 630 in a selected position. ~he rear end of the slide bar 630 ha~ tube mounting block 638 secured thereto by a pin 639 and,as shown in Pig. 33, to which upper and lower flat tubular sections 640 and 642 are secured. Closed ends of the tubular eections 640 and 642 extond into recesses 644 and 646 formed in the respective plates 620 and 622 above and below a portion of the guide way 628. A hole 64B in the bottom of the upper j~ 20 tubular section 640 is aligned with an upward facing hole 650 in the lowex tub~larsection 642. The holes 648 and 650 are disposed in align_nt with a slot 652 in th!e upper plate ~; 620 and a ~lot 654 in the lower plate 622 such that air passing from the tubular section 640 through hole 648 is impeded from passing into the hole 650 in the tubular section l , ; 642 by the presence of the fastener chain :tape 77 within the passageway 628. The 810tB 652 and 654 hav~a a longitudinal 1 ~ .
¦ length in the plate 620 and 622 ~elected to give the desired range of adjustments for stopping the sewing at a severed end 1~ , - .
I A
!

' of the fa~tener chain.
As illustrated in Fig, 4, the lower thread cutting mechani~m includes a pair of brackets 658 and 660 which are mounted on the 6ewing machine base 85 and have respective air cylinders 662 and 664 ~ecured thereto. Piston rods 666 and 668 extending from the air cylinders 662 and 664 are connected by pin~ 669 and 670 to slide bars 671 and 672 extending into guideways 674 and 676 formed in the mating surfaces of the plates 624 and 626 (Pig. 28), Referring to Figs. 34 and 35, pins 678 and 680 secured to re~pective upper snagging blades 682 and 684 and to respective lower ~nagging blades 6a6 and 688 extend into slotted openings 690 and 692 within inwardly extending arms 694 and 696 of the slide bars 671 and 672. A left cutting blade 698 is disposed between the ~nagging blades 682 and 686. A right cutting blade 700 is disposed between the snagging blades 686 and 688. Slotted openings 702 and 704 are formed in the respective cutting b~ades 698 and 700 through which the pin~ 678 and 680'~
extend. The front ends 706 and 708 of the respective cutting ~ , .
bl~des 698 and 700 are bent to extend within a groove 710 formed within a adjustable block 712 which has a slot 714 through which a screw 716 extends to adjustabl; secure the block 712 to the lower plate 626. Curved ends 718 and 720 of the respective left pair of snagging blades 682 and 686, 2S and right pair of snagging blades 684 and 688 are designed to cam respective threads 722 and 724 extending from bobbins to an article such that they are snagged by hook portions 726 and 728 of the respective aeft pair of snagging bl~des 1 . .
, ..

., ~ ' .~.~ . .. . . ,. .,.. . . . .. .... . - - .
,~,.. -, . . - , . . . . . .. .

.... ~, . .. . ,, - .; .... .... ... .

~0~3~

682 and 686 and right pair of snagging blades 684 and 688.
Severing or knife edges 730 and 732 on the respective cutting blades 698 and 700 are formed at a diagonal such that the threads are both severed and torn when the snagging blades 682, 684, 686 and 688 are retracted in a manner similar to the upper thread cutting mechanism, The ends 718 and 720 of the snagging blades 682, 684,686 and 688 as well as the knife edges 73~ and 732 of the cutting blades 698 and 100 extend into guide grooves or slots 734 and 736 which are formed in the throat plate 238 below the transverse feed plate 226.
The fastener chain cutting mechanism 89 is illustrated in Figs. 36, 37 and 38 and has side brackets 746 ~only one shown) suitably mounted on the underneath portion of the sewing machine base 85, with a rear plate 748 suitable secured to the bracket 746. A ~ront plate 750 suitably made to form guideways 752 and 754 for vertically extending arm portions 756 and 758 of a rectangular yoke-like movable member 760 is suitably secured to the rear plate 748 by screws 762. A transverse cutting blade 764 and a fastener element cutting blade 766 are secured to an upper be~m portion 767 of the yoke member 760 by a securing plate 768 fastened by suitably screws 769. A stationary cutting die includes a die block 772 secured by screws 774 to the front plate 750 and a rear die block 776 secured to the rear plate 748 by screws 778 to form an opening which ~ates with the cutting blades 764 and 766. A fastener chain guide 779 suitable mounted on the front plate 750 is suitably shaped to form k `
.

10~3634 a guiding passageway for the fastener chain between the cutt-ing blade~ 764 and 766 and the die blocks 772 and 776. A
pivot block 780 secured to the front cover 750 by ~crew~ 782 ha~ a pin 784 which pivotally connect~ to one end of links 786. Links 788 are pi~D~ ~y mounted at one end on a pin 790 I which i~ ~ecured to the lower portion of the yoke member 760.
The links 788 and 786 are pivotally mounted at their other end~ to a pin 792 in a clevis 79~ to form a toggle joint.
The clevis 794 i8 mounted on a piEi ton rod 796 extending from an air cylinder 798 which is pivotally mounted by pivot block 800 within the side brackets 746.
' The fastener chain feeding and guiding mechanism 82, ¦ as illustrated in Figs. 39 and 40, includes a back plate 804 to which are ~ecured side plates 806 and 808 and front plates 810 and 812 ~o a~ to form a guideway 814 for the fastener chain 68. The front plates 810 and 812 are spaced to leave a elot 816 therebetween which fonms a gu~kway for the fa~tening element~ 79 and 80afthefastener chain 68. An air cylinder 820 j mounted on the lower end of the back plate 804 has a pi~ton rod 822 which is fastened to a bracket 824 secured to one end of a spring advancing member 826.b~tween the back plate 804 and the fastener chain 68. The other end 828 of the advancing member 826 has suitably pointed portion~ 80 ae to engage the tapes 77 and 78 of the fastener chain 68 when the piston rod 822 is advanced. A ~pring pawl member ~ 830 mounted by screws 832 and springs 834 on a block 835 ¦ secured on the front plates 810 and 812 has pointed prongs ¦~ 836 which extend into resy ctive openings 838 of the front f~, .
. ~

10q3634 plate~ 810 and 812 (see Fig.40) to engage and hold the tapes 77 and 78 of the fastener chain when the advancing member 826 is returned. The advancing member 826 has central ,. long$tu~11y spaced aperh~e~ 839 bo n~h~e frictional en~P~sent with the faste~ elem~ 79 and 80.
As illustrated in Fig. 1 the fastener chain 68 i8 feed from a reel 846 which is driven by a motor 848 controlled by a conventional tension control 850. A crank arm 852 extends from the tension control 850 for sensing the slack or tension in the fastener chain 68 to selectively advance ' the reel 846.
I The fastener chain 68, as shown in Fig. 4~ has J a conductive foil 856 attached t~le~eto wherever there i8 a defect, such as a spli¢e, in the fastener chain. A sensor for sensing the conductive foil 856 includes an insulative ! block 858 mounted on the back plate 804, ao illu~trated in Fig. 39, and has a suitably guideway 860 for pa~ing the fa-tener chain 68. A pair of spring contacts 862 and 864 are mounted by terminal pins 866 and 868 in the block 858 such that they will ~imultaneously engage and make electrical contact with the foil 856 when it pass~s through the guide-- , ~; way 860.
The electrical control circuit for the sewing apparatus is illustrated in Fig. 42 and includes normally - open owitches 874, 876, and 878 and a potentiometer 880 which are operat~d by the connecting rod IOS from the treadle .~ , ~ 104. The switch 874 is connected in series with a power , ~ ~ - terminal 884 and normally closed contacts 886 of anautomatic !

., ' .

cycle relay, lndicated generally at 888, and a normally closed air switch 890 to a power control terminal 891 of ~:
the motor control circuit 110 to allow operation of the motor 66. An alternate enabling path for the power control terminal 891 is through a normally closed air switch 892, a normally open air switch 894 and normally open contacts .
896 of the automatic cycle relay 888 to the normally closed :.
air switch 890. The slider of the potentiometer 880 is .
connected through normally closed contacts 898 of the automatic cycle relay 888 and the switch 876 to the power terminal 884 while the other terminals of the potentiometer 880 are connected to motor speed control terminals 899 of the motor control circuit 110. Normally open contacts 900 of the relay 888,are connected between the power terminal 884 and a low speed input terminal 902 of the motor control circuit 110. The terminal 902 i8 connected to a contact arm 904 of an air switch indicated generally at 906, which has a normally closed contact 908 connected to a high speed input terminal 910 of the motor control circuit 110. A
normally open contact 912 of the air switch 906 i8 connected to a contact arm 914 of an air switch indicated generally at 916 which has a normally closed contact 918 connected to the low speed terminal 902. A normal open contact 920 of the air switch 916 is connected to a contact arm 922 of an air switch indicated generally at 924 which has a normally closed contact 926 connected to the low speed terminal 902.
A normally open contact 928 of the air switch 924 is connected to the high speed terminal 910.
The motor control circuit 110 is any suitable ~i;

~043634 circuit which can be used to operate a motor at variable speeds under the control of variable voltages from a potentiometer, a variable speed terminal, a low speed terminal and a high speed terminal. Many suitable circuits are believed to be either available or can be readily designed from the prior art.
The automatic cycle relay 888 has a coil 930 which i8 connected in series with the normally open terminal point sensing switch 608 and the 8Wi tch 878. An air valve solenoid 932 is connected in parallel to the coil 930. A
normally closed air switch 934 is connected in series with a normally open air switch 936 across the switches 878 and 608 for providing an alternate energizing path for the coil 930 and the ~olenoid 932. The power terminal 884 is connected in ~eries with the spring contacts862 and 864 and an air valve solenoid 938 while a normally open air switch 940 is connected between the power terminal 884 and a lamp 942.
In Figs. 43 and 44 there is shown a five port pneumatic valve which is illustrative of various five port valveSused in the pneumatic control circuit. The five port valve has a block 944 which has a cylindrical cavity 946 containing a slidable valve member 948 which has spaced O-ring seals 950, 952, 954 and 956. A irst port 958 communicates into the left end of the cavity 946 for applying air pressure upon the left end of the valve member 948 to the urge the valve member 948 to the right. A second port 960 communicates with the right end of the cavity 946 for applying air pressure to the right end of the valve member 948 to urge the valve me~ber 948 to the left. A third port 962, a fourth port 1043634 ~ ~

964 and a fifth port 966 communicate through spaced . ., openings in the cavity 946; and the seals 950, 952, 954, ....
and 956 are spaced; such that, when the valve member 948 is in the left position as shown in Fig. 43, the third pcrt 962 communicates with the fourth port 964 between the seals 952 and 954 while the fifth port 966 is isolated by the seals 954 and 956, and when the valve member is in the right position as shown in Fig. 44, the third port 962 communicates with the fifth port 966 between the seals 952 and 954 while .,' the fourth port 964 is isolated by the seals 950 and 952. In addition, some five port valves have a spring return such as a compression spring 968 between one end of the valve member 948 and an end of a recess in one end of the cylinder .
cavity 946. Also, some five port valves are provided with a , ~olenoid including a coil 970 and an armature 972 connected ; with a valve moving member 974 for engaging an end of the valve member 948 to move,the valve member 948. The return springs and solenoid~ are designed to exert less force on ,,' the valve member 948 than the force produced by the air pre~sure applied to either of the first and second ports 958 and 960.
In Figs. 45 and 46 there is shown a seven port valve which is illustrative of seven port valves used in the pnuematic control circuit. The seven port valve has a block 978 with a cy~indrical cavity 980 containing a slidable valve member 982 which has 0-ring seals 984, 986, 988,990 and 992 spaced thereon. A first port 994 communicates with a left end of the cavity 980 to apply air pressure against the left end of.the valve mem~er 982 to urge the valve ,' ~' member 982 to the right. A second port 996 communicates -37- ' ~ .
~, ' 10~34 with the right end of the cavity 980 to apply air pressure against valve member 982 to urge the valve member 982 to the left. The seals 984, 986, 988, 990 and 992 are positioned on the valve member 982; and a third port 998, a fourth port 1000, a fifth port 1002, a sixth port 1004 and a seventh port 1006 communicate with spaced openings in the cavity 980; such that, when the valve member 982 is in the left position as illustrated in Fig. 45 the third port 998 communicates with the fifth port 1002 between seals 988 and 990, the fourth port 1000 communicates with the sixth port 1004 between seals 986 and 988, and the seventh port 1006 is isolated by seals 990 and 992; and when the bobbin 982 i5 in the position to the right as illustrated in Fig. 46, the third port 998 communicates with the fourth port 1000 between the seals 986 and 988, the ~ifth port 1002 communicates with the seventh port 1006 between the seals 988 and 990, and the sixth port 1004 is isolated by the seals 984 and 986. Some seven port valves in the pneumatic control circuit are provided with a spring return in the same manner as the five port valve illustrated in Figæ. 43 and 44.
In Figs. 47 and 48 there is shown a shuttle valve which is illustrative of various shuttle valves of the pneumatic control circuit. The shuttle valve has a block 1010 with a cylindrical cavity 1012 containing a valve member 1014 which has an 0-ring seal 1016 thereon. A first port 1018 and a second port 1020 communicate with the cylinder cavity on opposite sides of the seal 1016 while a third port 1022 communicates with an opening centrally spaced within ,. . . .

: ~043634 `
"
the cavity 1012: such that, when air pressure i~ applied - to the first port 1018, the valve member 1016 i8 urged to the right as illustrated in Fig. 48 to allow the first port 1018 to communicate with the third port 1022 wb~y the secondp~rt 1020is i#olated, and when an air pressure is applied to the second port 1020, the valve member 1016 is urged to the left as illustrated in Fig. 47 to allow communication from the second port 1020 to the third port 1022 with the fir~t port 1018 isolated.
In Figs. 49, 50, and 51 there is shown an impulse valve which is illustrative of varioue impulse valves which ¦ are included in the pneumatic control circuit. The impulse valve has a block 1026 which contains a cylinder cavity including a lower small cavity portion 1028 and a upper larger I lS cavity portion 1030 with an exhAust 1031 opening at the I ~unction of the cavity portions 1028 and 1030. ~ ~mall tubular ! pi~ton 1032 i~ contained within the snaller cavity portion 1028 and ha~ a o-ring seal 1034 which is disposed above an ~`~ inp~t port 1036 communicating with the lower portion of the sm~ller cavity portion 1028 such that air pre~sure applied to the input port 1036 urges the small pi~ton 1032 upward.
An output port 1038 communicates with the ~maller cavity portion 1028 euch that, when the small piston 1032 is in the rai~ed position as shown in Pig. S0, the input port 1036 2S communicates with the output port 1038 below the seal 1034.
Additionally the input port 1036 communicates through a restriction 1040 to a central passageway 1042 extending thrDugh the small piston 1032. The upper end 1043 of the small piston 1032 is bevelled such that, when the ~mall piston 1032 ",. . .. ...... . .. .
A;
, .

1043~3g i~ in the raised position, the end 1043 seats with a central passageway 1044 extending through a large tubular piston 1046 which has an O-ring seal 1048 within the large cavity portion 1030. The large piston 1046 has a diameter which is sufficiently greater than the small piston 1032 that restricted flow of air through the restriction 1040 and passageways 1042 and 1044 to the upper portion of the larger cavity portion 1030, after a duration, forces the pistons 1046 and 1032 downward as illustrated in Fig. 51 to position the seal 1034 between the input port 1036 and the output port 1038 and to connect the output port 1038 to the exhaust 1031. A compression spring 1052 is disposed between the small piston 1032 and the large piston 1746 to return the large pieton 1046 to its raised position as illustrated in Fig.
49 after air pressure is removed from the input port 1036.
The pneumatic control circuit i5 illustrated in two portions in Figs. 52 and 53 which can be placed side-by-side with F;g. 52 on the left and Fig. 53 on the right to show the whole pneumatic control circuit. Various ports of valves in the pneumatic circuit are not shown connected to any conduit; such non-connected ports are left open and sometimes used as exhaust ports. ~ranches of the same conduit are identified by the same reference numerals.
A suitable air source 1056 is connected to a conduct 1058 which in turn is connected to the air switch 894 and a oil lubricating device 1060 in series with a one way valve, such as ball valve 1062, to a supply manifold 1064.
The supply manifold 1064 is connected to various ports and valves in the pneumatic control circuit and is identified -10~3~34 through out the drawings by an "s" and is referred to as "supply". The knee valve 106, n~ mally biased closed by a spring return with its output exhausted is connected , between the supply and a conduit 1066 which is connected to the first pcrt of a shuttle valve 1068. The third port of the shuttle valve 1068 is connected by a conduit 1070 , to the presser foot lift air cylinder 270.
A five port valve 1072, with a spring return - normally connecting the third port to the fourth port, includes the solenoid 932 for connecting the third port to the fifth port when the solenoid 932 is energized. The third port of the valve 1072 is connected to the supply while the fourth and fifth ports of the valve 1072 are connected to respective conduits 1074 and 1076. The end 0-ring seal (see 950 in Fig. 43) isolating the fourth port from the first port when the solenoid 932 is operated i8 removed from the valve 1072 such a~ to allow the conduit 1074 to exhaust through thc first port. A five port valve 1078 has its fifth port connected to the conduit 1076 and its first port connected to the conduit 1074. The third port of the valve 1078 is connected to a conduit 1080 which is connected to the first port of a seven port valve 1082.
The third port of the valve 1082 is connected to the supply while the fourth port of the valve 1082is connected ~y a conduit 1084 to the piston rod retract input of the folder air cylinder 556. The fifth port of the valve 1082 is connected to conduit 1086 communicating with the advance input of the air cylinder 556.

:~

, ,~.. , . ~ , . . ... .. . .. ..
:, .:
,; , .
, :. ;
.... .

The conduit 1084 is also connected to the second port of the valve 1078, the air switch 936 and to the input port of an impulse valve 1088 which has its output port connected by a conduit 1090 to the first port of a shuttle valve 1092. The third port of the shuttle valve 1092 is connected to a conduit 1094 communicating with the f~st port of a seven port valve 1096. The third port o the valve 1096 is connected to the supply while the fourth and fifth ports of the valve 1096 are connected by the respective conduits 1098 and 1100 to the respective advance and return inputs of the fastener chain cutter air cylinder 798.
Conduit 1076 is also connected to a first port of a five port valve 1102 which has a spring return normally connecting the third port to the fourth port. The fifth port o the valve 1102 is connected to the conduit lOS8 to provide a non-oil-containing air supply for the third port of the valve 1102 connected to a conduit 1104 which is connected by a restriction 1106 to the tubular section 640 of the fastener chain guiding and sensing mechanism. The tubular section 642 is connected to a sensing input of booster valve 1108 which has another input connected to the conduit 1104.
The booster valve 1108 is any suitable valve which operates on a very low pressure differential applied to the sensing input to connect another input to an output: such valves ; 25 are well know and commercially available. The output of the booster valve 1108 is connected by a conduit 1110 to ~ the air switch 906 and to the fourth port of a five port ¦ valve 1112. The third port of the valve 1112 is connected ' .

, 1043~34 by a conduit 1114 to the tube section 207 located on one side of the position disc 205 and to an input of a booster . valve 1116 which is similar to valve 1108. The tube 208 on the opposite side of the positi~ disc 205 is connected to the sensing input of the booster valve 1116 which has its output connected to a conduit 1118 communicating with the first ports of five port valves 1120 and 1122. The fifth port of the valve 1120 is connected to the supply while its third port is connected by a conduit 1124 to the air switch 892 and to the conduit 136 and the brake cylinder 130. The fifth port of the valve 1122 is collnected to the source and has its third port connected by a conduit 1126 to the first port of a seven port ~ualve 1128 wh.ich has its third port connected to the supply and its fourth; and fifth ports connected to respective conduits 1130 and 1132. The piston rod advance input of the zero rocking feed air cyllnder 458 and the retract input of the feed dog dropping air cylinder 480 are connected to the conduit 1130 while the retract input of air cylinder 458 and the advance input of air cylinder 480 are connected to the conduit 1132.
Conduit 1126 is also connected to the input port of an impulse valve 1136 which has its output port connected by a conduit 1138 to the first port of a seven port valve 1140 and to the third port of a five port valve 1142. The fourth and fifth ports of the valve 1142 are connected by respective conduits 1144 and 1146 to respective first and second ports in a seven port valve 1148 which has its third port connected to the~:~supply and its fourth and fifth ports connected to the ` ` ` . . .- , . . . . . .

~ 043~34 respective conduits 288 and 290 operating the needle retract-ing air cylinder 292. The third port of the valve 1140 j is connected to the supply and the fo~rth port of the valve 1140 is connected to a conduit 1150 which communicates with the advance input of the thread tension release air cylinder ~ 500, with the input port of an impulse valve 1152, and ¦ with the first port of a not valve 1154. The not valve 1154 is illustrated as a five port valve with a spring return ' normally biasing the valve 1154 to connect its fourth port to its third port. Conduit 1156 from the output port of impulse valve 1152 is connected to the first port of the valve 1112 and to the first port of a seven port valve portion 1158 of a logic valve 1160.
The logic valve 1160 is conveniently a unit which contains the seven port valve 1158 as well as diaphragm valves 1162 and 1164 along with impulse valves 1166 and 1168 connected by the conduits and restrictions illustrated within the dotted lines. The third port of the valve 1158 is connected to the supply and the fourth port of the valve 1158 is connected to a conduit 1170 which is connected to the third port of a five port valve 1172. The fifth port of the valve 1172 is oDnnected by a conduit 1174 to the piston advancing input of both the upper left thread cutting air cylinder 390 and the lower left thread cutting air cylinder 2 5 662. The return or piston retracting inputs of the air cylinders 390 and 662 are connected by a conduit 1176 to the fifth port of a five port valve 1178 which has its third port connected by conduit 1180 to the fifth port of the valve 1158 and to the operating chamber of the diaphragm valve 1164 1043~34 so as to open the valve 1164 so long as air pressure exists within conduit 1180. The sixth and seventh ports of the valve 1158 are connected through respective restrictions 1182 and 1183 to exhaust ports. A restriction 1184 connects the conduit 1170 to a conduit 1186 which is connected by a normally closed valve portion of the diaphragm valve 1164 to an exhaust 1188 such that pressure is not built up within the conduit 1186 until the relative pressure within the conduit 1180 drops sufficiently ~o al}ow the diaphragm valve 1164 to close. The input port of the impulse val~e 1168 is connected to the conduit 1186 and has it output port connected in series with a conduit 1190, a delay chamber 1192 and a conduit 1194 to the second input of the valve 1158. The conduit 1170 is conne~ted bo the diaphragm operating chamber of the valve 1162, and a restriction 1196 joins the conduit 1180 to a conduit 1198 which i8 connected through a normally closed valve portion of the diaphragm valve 1162 to an exhaust 1200 such that relative air pressure within the conduit 1198 which is connected to the input port of the impulse valve 1166 is insufficient to operate the impulse valve 1166 while the piston rods 392 and 666 are retracting.
The output port of the impulse valve 1166 communi-Cates with a conduit 1202 which is connected to a first port of a five port valve 1204. The fifth port of the valve 1204 is connected to the supply while the third port of the valve 1204 communicates with a conduit 1206 which is connected to the second port of the valve 1140, the second port of the valve 1120 and the fourth port of a five port valve 1208.

i,;~ ,.. . . .
`': ~ ' .,,, ' ~ ' .

10~3~i34 : The fifth port of the valve 1140 is connected to a conduit 1210 which is connected to a retract input of the thread tension air cylinder 500 and by a delay chamber 1212 to a conduit 1214 connected to the second port of the valve 1204.
. 5 The third port of the valve 1208 is connected by a conduit 1216 to the irst port of a seven port valve 1218 which has , its third port connected to the supply and its fourth port connected to a conduit 1220. The retract input port of the cam clutch air cylinder 172, the first port of the valve 1208 ; 10 and the second port of the valve 1142 communicate with the conduit 1220. The fifth port of the valve 1218 is connected ~ by a conduit 1222 to the advance input of the air cylinder ; 172.
The conduit 1058 from the air source 1056 is ; 15 connected to a first port of a five port valve 1226 which has a spring return normally connecting the third port of the valve 1226 to its fourth port which is connected to the source. The third port of the valve 1226 communicates with a conduit 1228 which is connected to a first port of a shuttle valve 1230. The second port of the shuttle valve 1230 is connected by conduit 1232 to the reset valve 613 which i8 spring biased closed and connected to the supply so as to apply air pressure to the shuttle valve 1230 when operated and to exhaust conduit 1232 when unoperated.
The third port of the shuttle valve 1230 is connected by conduit 1234 to the first port of a seven port valve 1236 which has a spring return normally connecting the fourth port of the valve 1236 to its sixth port and normally :~

. ' , , '; . , ''' '; ''; ' ' - " ~" ' ' ''" ' ` ' ' ';'. ' '` -. '' `' '' ' '; ' 36~4 connecting the fifth port of the valve 1236 to its third port which is connected to the supply. The fifth port of the valve 1236 is connected to a conduit 1238 communicating with the up-down cam position sensing valve 180 which is illustrated functionally as a seven port valve with a spring return normally connecting the third port of the valve 180 to its fifth port and normally connecting the fourth port of the valve 180 to its sixth port which is open to exhaust.
In addition, the valve 180 is functionally illustrated as having its pivoted arm 182 engaging a valve moving member 1239 which when depressed operates the valve 180 to connect the third port of the valve 180 to its fourth port and to connect the fifth port of the valve 180 to its seventh port which i~ open to exhaust; the valve moving member 1239 being similar to the five port valve moving member 974 shown in Fig,43. The fifth port of the valve 180 is connected by a conduit 1240 to the air switch 916. The fourth port of the valve 18~ is connected by a conduit 1242 to an input port of an impulse valve 1244.
The transverse stitch cam valve 186 i8 normally spring biased closed to exhaust a conduit 1246. The valve operating member 188 when depressed operates the valve 186 to connect the supply to the conduit 1246 which is connected to the second port of the five port valve 1172, the second port of the five port valve 1178, the second port of the seven port valve 1218, the first port of a shuttle valve 1247, the first port of a shuttle valve 1248 and the first port of a shuttle valve 1249. The third port of the air - . .
., , . , ~ . :
.. . .

10~3~34 shuttle valve 1247 communicates through a conduit i250 with the second port of the valve 1122. The air shuttle vaLve 1248 has a third port connected to a conduit 1252 which communicates with the second port of the seven port valve 1096, The fourth port of the valve 1172 is connected by a conduit 1256 to the piston advance inputs of the right upper thread cutter air cylinder 409 and the lower right thread cutter air cylinder 664. The fourth port of the valve 1178 is connected by a conduit 1258 to the re~ract inputs of the air cylinders 409 and 664. The conduit 1256 is also connected to the input port of an impulse valve 1260 which has its output port connected by a conduit 1262 to a first port of a five port valve 1264. The fifth port of the valve 1264 is connected to the supply while the third port of the valve 1264 is connected by a conduit 1266 to the fourth port of the valve 1154 and the air switch 890.
The third port of the valve 1154 is connected to the second port of t~e shuttle valve 1068 by a conduit 1268 which i8 also connected to the air switch 934.
The output port of the impulse valve 1244 communi-cates with a conduit 1270 which is connected to the first port of a shuttle valve 1272 which has its third port connect-ed by a conduit 1274 to the second port of the valve 1112.
The fourth port of the seven port valve 1236 i8 connected by a conduit 1280 to a resett manifold 1282 which is identified in the drawings by an "R' and which is connect-ed to the following::the second port of the seven port valve 1082, the second port of the seven port valve 1128, the , " ~ .

~ .................................. . . . .

first port of the five port valve 1142, the first port of the five port valve 1172, the first port of ~h five port valve 1178, the ~econd port of the five port valve 1208, the ~econd port of the ~huttle valve 1247, the second S port of the shuttle valve 1272 and the fifth port of a five port valve 1284. The third port of the shuttle valve 1249 is connected by a conduit 12BS to the first port of the valve 1284 which ha~ its third port connected by a restricted conduit 1286 to the advance input of the fastener chain feed air cylinder B20. The retract input of the air cylinder 820 ie connected by a conduit 1238 to the fifth port of the valve 1236. ~he conduit 1238 is also connected by a restricted conduit 128B to the input port of an impulse valve 1290 which hae its output port communicating by a lS conduit 1292 to the second port of the valve 1284. A non-restricted conduit 1294 with a one way valve 1296 is connected in parallel with the restricted conduit 1286 euch that when the conduit 1238 ie again preesurized after releaee of the manual reset valve 613 the faetener chain feed alr cylinder a20 is allowed to retract elowly to permit the preeeer foot 87 to descend and grip the fastener chain 68 before the feed member 826 retracts.
~` , The conduit 1238 is also connected to an input port of an impulse valve 1298 which has its output port 2S communicating with a conduit 1300 connected to the second ~`, port of the valve 1264.
1`-A manual tape feed valve 1304, connected to the supply, communicates with a conduit 1306 which is connected to a second input of the shuttle valve 1249. The valve 1304 ie epring biased to normally exhaust the conduit 1306 until depressed to connect the supply to the conduit 1306.
A manual tape cutting valve 1308 communicates with a conduit 1310 which is connected to a first port of a seven port valve 1312. The valve 1308 is spring biased to normally exhaust the conduit 1310 until depressed to connect the supply to the conduit 1310. The valve 1312 has a spring return normally connecting the third port of the valve 1312 to its fifth port and normally connecting the ~rth port of the valve 1312 to its sixth port. The fifth port of the valve 1312 is connected by a conduit 1314 to the input port of an impulse valve 1316 while the fourth port of the valve 1312 is connected by a conduit 1318 to the second port of the shuttle valve 1092. The output port of the impulse valve 1316 communicates with a conduit 1320 connected to the second port of the shuttle valve 1248.
A five port valve 1322 include6 the solenoid 938 which when energized operates the valve 1322 to connect its third port to the fourth port of the valve 1322 until air : pressure is applied to the first p~rt of the valve 1322 ;:
through a conduit 1324 connected to a manual fastener chain fault acknowledge valve 1326 connected to the supply. The -.
valve 1326 is spring biased to normally exhaust the conduit 1324 until depressed to connect the supply to the conduit 1324. The fourth port of the valve 1322 is connected to the supply while the third port of the valve 1322 is connected by a conduit 1328 to the second port of the seven port valve 1336 and to the air switch 940.
In operation of the sewing apparatus the article ~ -" ~ . . " ,, '' . .

1~43634 69 (Fig. 3) is placed by an operator on the cover 81 (Fig. 1), as illustrated in Fig. 54, with the seam allowances 75 and 76 over the inside edges of the open folder plates 532 and 533 and the scroll 545 extending into the opening 74 between the portions 70 and 71. The sewing apparatus is reset by moving the lever arm 614 (Fig. 4) ~orward and down causing the closing of the folder plates 532 and 533, as shown in Figs. 55 and 56, and the feeding of the end of the fastener chain 68 beneath the presser foot 87 (Fig. 1) and the needles 93 and 94. The moving of the arm 614 forward also raises the sensing arm 601 ~ to its raised or upright position within the opening 74.
¦ Using the knee valve 106 to lift the presser foot 87, the operator positions the article 69 in position with the edges of the article at points 1352 and 1354 directly beneath the respective needles 93 and 94. Manually depressing the treadle 104 (Fig. 1) operates the sewing machine 64 causing the stitching of parallel lines of stitches 1356 and 1358, as shown in Fig. 57, to points 1360 and 1362 where the terminal point 73 engaging the sensing arm 601 rotates the sensing arm 601 and triggers the automatic operation or termination of the sewing operation. Also, the rotation of the sensing arm 601 results in the operation of the fastener chain cutting mechanism 89 (Fig. 4) to sever the fastener chain at 1364 and form the severed section 1366 of fastener chain sewn to the article 69. The operation of the sewing machine 64, under automatic control, continues to sew the lines of stitches 1356 and 1358 from points ,.

1(~43634 1360 and 1362 to points 1368 and 1370 where the machine is automatically stopped by the sensing of the trailing end of the severed section 1366 of fastener chain. Then the left needle 93 is retracted, the upper and lower left threads are cut, and the normal advancing mechanism of the sewing machine 64 is disabled. The transverse camming mechanism 100 and transverse feed mechanism 102 along with the machine 64 are operated so that the garment 69 and the severed section 1366 of the fastener chain are moved to the right as viewed in Fig. 59 to form the transverse line of stitches 1372 and back to the left to form the return line of the stitches 1374 whereupon the machine 64 is stopped.
Automatic cutting of the upper and lower right threads and raising the presser foot 67 terminates a cycle o operation of the sewing apparatus.
~ s illustrated in Fig~.59and 60the ~r.es of stitches 1372 and 1374 join the portions 70 and 71 of the article and the tapes 77 and 78 of the severed section of fastener chain all together. Thereafter a slider 1376, shown in Fig.
61 is assembled on the fastening elements of the severed section of fastener chain and the article is finished in a suitable manner to form a closable opening in the article. ;
The lines of stitches 1372 and 1374 form the bottom stop for the slider 1376 eliminating the need for metal or plastic bottom stops.
Reerring more specifically to the sewing apparatus and to Figs. 28, 29, 30 and 31, the article is initially positioned in the guiding mechanism 84 with the inner edges of the portions 70 and 71 (Fig. 3~ at the opening 74 in the respective channels 566 and 567 of the scroll 545. The folded seam allowances 75 and 76 are positioned to extend beneath the inner edge~ of the folding plates 532 and 533.
The size of the rear end of the channels 566 and 567 and the amount of exten~ion of the inner edges of the folding plates 532 and 533 into the channèls 566 and 567 can be adjusted by turning the screw 587. Turning the screw S87 to advance the screw to the left as viewed in ~ig. 31 forces the tapered end 589 between the camming surfaces 590 and 591 of the re~pective upper and lower clamping members 575 and 576 to ~lide the upper clamping member 575 upward and to slide the lower clamping member 576 downward within the guideway formed by the block 569, the bifurcations 571 and 572 (Fig. 30) and the plate 573.
Upward movement of the horizontal extending portions 579 and 5~0 (Fig. 29) of the clamping member 575 and downward move-ment of the horizontal extending portions 583 and 5~4 of the clamping member 576 allow the free rear end~ o the resilient scroll portions 560, 561, 562 and 563 to ~pread apart increasing the ~ize of the rear ends of the channel~
566 and 567. Also the lowering of the member 576 lowers the inclined edges 593 and 595 such that inclined edges 592 and 594 of the respective slide bars 524 and 525 will ~engage the inclined edges 593 and 595 at greater spaced positions: thus the inner edges of the folding plates 532 2S and 533 are not allowed to extend as far into the channel~
566 and 567. The increase in the size of the rear end of the channel~ 566 and 567 and the lessex extension of the folding plates 532 and 533 into the channels 566 and 567 allow the channels 566 and 567 to receive and guide article~ having material of a greater thickness.

. . . . .

., - .

Conversely, turning the screw 587 to retract the taperea end 589 from between the camming eurfaces 590 and S91 of the re~pective clamping members 575 and 576 allows the springs 577 to move the clamping member~ 575 and 576 toward each other. The inclined edges S81 and 582, 585 and 5~6 engaging the free ends of the scroll portion~ 560, 561, 562 and 563 force the rear ends of the scroil portions 560, 561, 562 and 563 together reducing the size of the rear ends of the channels 566 and 567. Also upward movement of the member 576 moves the inclined edges 593 and 595 upward all~wing the inclined ~dge~ 592 and 594 of the ~lide bars 524 and 525 to move closer together; thus the inner edgee of the olding plates 532 and 533 are allowed to extend further into the channels 566 and 567. Decreasing the size lS of the channel~ 566 and 567 and allowing the olding plate~
532 and 533 to extond further into the channelo 566 and 567 ~d~u~t~ the capacity of the channel~ 566 and 567 to accommodate and guide article~ having a lesser thickneee of material.
Referring to Fig. 4, when the arm 614 i~ moved to reset the apparatus, the flexible ~haft 610 ie rotated to engage the arm 611 with the valve 613. As ~hown in Fig.
52 operation of the valve 613 passes pre~urized air from the ~upply manifold 1064 or ~upply to the second port (~ee 1020, Fig. 43~ of the shuttle valve 1230 ~hifting its valv~ member ~1014, Fig. 47) to connect the ~econd port o the valve 1~30 to its third port (1022, Fig. 47) and conduit 1234. Pre~sure in conduit 1234 moves the valve member (see 982, Fig. 43) of seven port valve 1236 to connect its third ; ~` . -,, ' , ' -S4- ~

~043634 port (998, Fig. 46) to its fourth port (1000) pa~sing supply air to conduit 12B0 and reset manifold 1282, and eXhauAting conduit 1~38 through the fifth and seventh port~
(1002 and 1006) of the valve 1236. Pre~urized air in reset mani¢old 1282 applied to the first port of valve 1082 move~ it~ valve member connecting the third port (998, Fig.
43) of the valve 1082 to its fifth port (1002) and connecting the fourth port (1000) o valve 1082 to it~ ~ixth port (1004),which i8 open,to apply supply air to conduit 1086 and exhaust conduit 1084 operating the air cylinder 556 and advancing the piston rod 557 to pivot the lever 553 (Fig. 4) and pull the link 548 to the right and push the link 549 to the left to clo~e the folding plates 532 and 533. Exhausting conduit 1084 resets impulse valve 1088.
lS Air pres~ure from the reset manifold 1282 through shuttle valve 1247,shown ln Fig. 53, and conduit 1250 to the second port of the ive port valve 1122 moves its valve member (~ee 948, Fig. 43) to connect the third port (962) of valve 1122 to its fourth port (964) and to isolate the flfth port (966) of valve 1122 di~connecting the supply from conduit 1126 and exhausting conduit 1126 and the first port of the seven port valve 1128. Air pressure from the reset man~fold 1282 on the second port of the valve 1128 operates the valve 1128 to apply supply air to conduit 1132 and to exhau~t conduit 1130 operating air cylinders 458 and 480 to retract the piston rod 460 and to advance the piston rod 481. Referring to Figs. 23 and 24, advancement of the piston rod 481 relative to the air cylinder 480 moves the inclined ~' .: . . , . . : . .- , , ., , . , , . ,, . , , -edge 488 and return portion 487 of the drop feed follower insert 476 into a position between feed lifting cam 483 and the drop feed cam follower 482 lifting the feed dog 86 to a raised position where it will engage an article beneath the presser foot 87 (Fig. 11) when the cam 483 has raised the feed dog 86 to its up position. As illustrated in Fig.
22, retraction of the piston rod 460 rotates the arm 452 and the shaft 450 causing the feed reversing mechanism 440 of the sewLng machine 64 when driven by the feed driving eccentric 442 and rotation of the hook driving shaft 444 to oscillate the crank 446 and feed driving rock shaft 448 such that the needles 93 and 94 and the feed dog 86 are moved from front to rear when the needles 93 and 94 are do~n and the feed dog 86 is in its up position to feed an article through the sewing machine 64, Referring back to Figs. 52 and 53, reset air pressure from manifold 1282 i8 ~ ssed through the third and fifth ports of the valve 1284 and the restricted conduit 1286 to the advance input of the fastener chain feeding air cylinder 820 with its retract port exhausting through conduit 1238 to advance the piston rod 822 and the spring advancing member 826 (Fig. 39) to engage the tip 828 with the tape~ 77 and 78 of the fastener chain to advance the fastener chain 68 until the leading end of the fastener chain 68 i8 beneath the presser foot 87 and the needles 93 and 94. The tips 828 do not interfere with the fastener chain 68 being pulled through the fastener chain feeding and guiding mechanism 82 by the rocking feed movement of the -' ' , feed dog 86 and needles 93 and 94.
Additionally, the air from the reset manifold 1282 i~ applied to (1) the first ports of valves 1172 and 1178 moving their valve members (see 948, Fig. 44) to connect the third ports (962) of the valves 1172 and 1178 to their fifth ports (966) and isolating the four-th ports (964) of the valves 1172 and 1178 to connect the conduit 1170 to the conduit 1174 and to connect the conduit 1176 to the conduit 1180 to prepare for later operation of the upper and lower left thread cutting mechanisms, (2) the first port of the valve 1142 to enable later retraction of the left needle 93; (3) the second port of valve 1208 to allow later operation of the transverse camming air cylinder 172, and ~4) the second port of the shuttle valve 1272 applying air through conduit 1274 to the second port of valve 1112 operating the valve 1112 to enable later sen~ing o the top dead center position of the sewing machine 64.
Exhausting conduit 1238 allows the impulse valves 1290 and 1298 to exhaust their input ports (see 1036 Fig. 51) allowing the springs (1052) of valves 1290 and 1298 to return their large pistons (1046, Fig. 49) to their raised positions, thus resetting the impulse valves 1290 and 1298.
Upon release of the manual reset lever 614 the spring return of the reset valve 613 disconnects the air pressure through the shuttle valve 1230 and exhausts conduit 1232 and 1234 allowing the spring return (see 968, Fig. 43) of the valve 1236 to exhaust conduit 1280 and manifold 1282 and to again connect the supply air to the fifth port of .,:,, : .;: ................ : . ~: , :.: . .. .. ... .

1a43634 valve 1236 and the conduit 1238. Air pres3ure from conduit 123B through the restriction 1288 operates the impulse valve 1298 to apply an impul~e of air through conduit 1300 to the second port of the five port valve 1264 which disconnects the -S supply air pres~ure from conduit 1266 and exhausts the conduit 1266 to deactuate the air ~witch B90. Referring to Fig. 42, the air switch 890 returns to its normally cloeed condition to enable the operation of the motor control circuit 110 and the motor 66. The air switch 894 i8 maintained cloeed by air pres~ure in conduit 1058 (Fig. 52) from the source 1056.
Exhau~ting the air preseure in conduit 1266 (Fig. 53) exhausts conduit 1268 through the valve 1154 closing the air switch 934 along with exhausting the conduit 1070 and the air cylinder 270. When closed the switch 934 (Fig. 42) enable~ the initia-lS tion of a sub~equent automatic termination cycle. Exhausting air presoure from the air cylinder 270 allow8 the presser foot lever 266 (Fig. 6) to pivot causing the pres~er foot rod 256 ~Fig. 16) and presser foot 87 to lower. There A fter the operator u~es the knee lift valve 106 to apply supply pree~ure through conduit 1066 (Fig. 53) to the first port of the ~huttle valve 1068 moving its valve member (see 1014, Fig.
48) to connect the fir~t port (1018) of the valve 1068 to it~ third port (1022), the conduit 1070 and the air cylinder 270 to rai~e the presser foot 87 when in~erting an article beneath the pre~ser foot 87.
The reapplication of ~upply air to the conduit 1238 ~180 operates the impul~e valve 1290 raising its small piston ~1032, Fig. 50) to engage the tapered end (1043) of the ~mall piston with the pas~ageway ~1044) in the large piston (1046) passing air pre~sure through the restriction (lOiO) and passage-~ .
. . .
.~-. -. . . . .

1()4~634 ways (1042 and 1044) to subsequently force the lowering of both pistons (1044 and 1032, Fig. 51) to apply a pulYe of air pressure through the output port (1038, Fig.so) when the small piston is raised. The pulse of air pressure iB applied through conduit 1292 to the second port of valve 1284 to exhaust conduit 1294 and the advance port of the air cylinder 820 through the one way valve 1296 and the valve 1284. The air pressure in conduit 1238 to the retract port of the air cylinder 820 ~lowly retracts the spring advancing member 826 ehown in Fig. 39. The prongs 836 of the spring pawl member 830 and the pre~ser oot 87 engage the tapes 77 and 78 to prevent the fa~tener chain 68 from being retracted when the advancing m~mber 826 iB retracted. The prongs 836 do not interfere with the faetener chain being pulled through the fastener chain feeding and guilding mechanism 82 by the rocking feed movement of the feed dog 86 and needle~ 93 and 94.
When the operator operates the treadle 104, illu~trated in Fig. 42, the treadle ewitch 874 is closed to energize the motor control circuit 110 from the power terminal 884 through the switch 874, the normally closed ~- contacts 886 of the automatic cycle relay 888, the air switch 890 and the power control terminal 891. The tread~e 104 operates the slider of the potentiometer B80 to apply variable control signals from the power terminal 884, through Z5 ~witch 876~ContaCts 898 and the potentiometer 880 to variable _59_ . ~ -,,, ; 1(1143634 ~ -,, .

speed terminals 899 of the circuit 110 determining the speed of the motor 66 and the sewing machine 64 to form the -~
parallel lines of stitches 1356 and 1358 (Fig. 57).
, When the terminal point 73 (Fig. 3) on the article 69 engages the arm 601, (Fig. 4) the arm 601 rotates the shaft 602 and the cam 605 operating the cam follower rod 606 to close the switch 608. In Fig. 42, current through switch 878 closed by the treadle 104 passes through the switch 608 to energize the automatic cycle relay coil 930 along with the valve solenoid 932. Operation of the automatic cycle relay 888 opens normally closed contacts 886 and 898 to terminate manual operation of the motor control circuit 110 and the motor 66 by the treadle 104, and closes normally open contacts 896 and 900 to energize the power control terminal 891 of the motor control circuit 110 from power terminal 884 through switch 892, switch 894, contacts 896 and switch 890; to connect the power terminal 884 to the low speed control terminal 902 of the motor control circuit 110 through contacts 900; and to connect the power terminal a84 through contact 900, contact arm 904 and normally closed contact 908 of the air switch 906 to the high speed control terminal 910.causing operation of the motor 66 at its high speed.l Operat~on of solenoid 932 operates the valve moving member (see 974, Fig. 43) of the valve 1072 (Fig. 52) to move its valve member to apply supply air pressure to conduit 1076 which passes through valve 1078 and conduit 1080 to the first port-of the valve 1082. Since the right end o-ring (see 950, Fig. 44) of the valve 1072 has been removed, the conduit 1074 now exhausts through the first port of valve 1072. Supply air pressure is directed through conduit 1084 from the valve 1082 to the retract port of the air cylinder 556 while conduit 1086 is exhausted to open up ; the folding plates 532 and 533 (Fig. 4). Pressure in conduit 1084 operates the valve 1078 to disconnect the conduit 1076 from the conduit 1080 and to exhaust the ; conduit 1080.
As illustrated in Fig. 27, rotation of the arm 601 engage~ the end 615 of the arm 601 with the projecting portion 616 of the scroll 545 resulting in the terminal point 73 sliding on the edge 617 and raising the article 69 above the scroll 545 as the article 69 continues to be fed between the presser foot 87 and feed dog 86.
Air pressure in conduit 1084 (Fig. 52) operates impulse valve 1088 to apply an air pulse through conduit 1090 and shuttle valve 1092 to conduit 1094 and the first port o~ the valve 1096 which operates to apply supply air pressure to the conduit 1098 and to exhaust conduit 1100 advancing the piston rod 796 in the air cylinder 798. As shown in Figs.
36, 37, 38, the toggle links 786 and 788 are pivoted by the advancement of the piston rod 796 to move the yoke member 760 downward such that the cutting blades 764 and 766 cooperate with the stationary die blocks 772 and 776 to sever the section .,~, 1366 (Fig. 57) from the continuous length of fastener chain and to sever the leading portion of the fastener elements from 1043~34 ~ ~

the advancing end of the remaining continuous length of the fastener chain.
The air pressure in the conduit 1076 (Fig. 53) is also applied to the first port of valve 1102 to operate the valve 1102 to apply supply air from the non-oil input conduit 1056 to the conduit 1104 and through the restriction 1106 to ;~
the upper tube section 640 of the fastener chain end sensing mechanism. When the severed section 1366 of the fastener chain has advanced through the guideway 628 (Fig. 28, 32 and ;
33) between the plate~ 620 and 622 such that the trailing end of the severed section passes between the tubular sections 640 and 642 (see also Fig. 58) air from the opening 648 is allowed to pass through the slots 652 and 654 and enter the opening 650 of the tubular section 642. A slight increase in pressure caused in the tubular section 642 i~ ~ufficient to operate the booster valve 1108 (Fig. 53) which connects the conduit 1104 to the conduit 1110 operating the air switch 906. Operation of the air ~witch 906 moves contact arm 904 (Fig. 42) out of engagement with the contact 908 deenergizing the high speed terminal 910 and into engagement with normally open contact 912 to operate the motor 6~ at low speed.
Air pressure in the conduit 1l10 (Fig. 53) is passed by the valve 1112 to the conduit 1114 to apply air pres~ure in the tubular section 207. Air from the open end of the tubular section 207 impinges upon the position disc 205 (Fig. 6) mounted on the shaft 122 until the disc 205 reaches the position where the slot 206 is in line with the open ends of the tubular sections 207 and 208, where upon air from the ~ ,;' .

~ -62-, ., , ' , .

;34 tubular section 207 passes into the tubular section 208.
The booster valve 1116 (Fig. 53) is operated by the slight increase in pre~sure in the tubular section 208 to connect the conduit 1114- to the conduit 1118 operating the valve 1120. Supply pressure is applied by the valve 1120 to the conduit 1124 which opens the air switch 892 and advances ; the piston 132 in the air cylinder 130 to engage the brake pad 126 (Fig. 5) with the brake disc 112 to stop the sewing machine 64 in its top dead center position with the needles 93 and 94 (F~g. 1) and the thread take up lever 209 in their raised positions. The air pressure in conduit 1118 (Fig. 53) also operates the valve 1122 to connect the supply to conduit 1126 operating the valve 1128 to apply supply air pressure to the conduit 1130 and to exhaust the conduit 1132. The air pressure in conduit 1130 causes the piston rod 460 to advance rotating the arm 452 (~ig. 22) and t~e shaft 450 to engage the pivot 462 against the adjustable stop 466 where the reversing mechanism 440 i8 set at a position which results in substantially zero oscillating movement of the rocker feed drive shaft 448 to eliminate forward and back rock feed motion of the needles 93 and 94 (Fig. 1) and the feed dog 86 (Fig.
24). Also air pressure in conduit 113~ retracts the air cylinder 480 relative to the piston rod 481 removing the re-turn portion 487 from between the cam 483 and cam follower 482 to allow the spring 486 and spring plate 484 to drop the feed dog 86 so that it will not engage the fastener chain beneath the presser foot 87.
Aire~pressure in the condui~ 1126 (Fig. 53) operates .,. , , . , - . -~3~3g impulse valve 1136 producing a pulse of air in conduit 1138.
The air pulse is applied through valve 1142 and conduit 1146 ; to the s~ond port of valve 114~ to connect the source to the conduit 290 and to exhaust the conduit 288 to the air cylinder portion 292 of the left needle retract mechanism. Referring to Figs. 10, 11, 12 the air pressure in conduit 290 forces the piston 294 upward pulling the cam 300 and the cam face 338 out of engagement with the ball 306. Upward movement of the cam 300 engages the cam face 340 with the ball 304 urging the ball 304 to the right into engagement with the flat 350 of the detent member 312. The ball 304 is retained against vértical movement within the groove portion formed by the bore 326 (Fig. 13) in the slot 324 of the retractable needle holder 308 and further upward movement of the cam applies upward forces to the ball 304 to move the assembly of the ball 304 and the holder 308 upward sliding the ball 304 on the flat 350. The engagement of the ball 306 with the bore 358 at surfaces inclined at an angle to the axis of the tubular bar 274 results in the ball being ved to the left from protrusion into the bore 358 to allow the upward movement of the holder 308. Subsequently, the holder 308 reaches the up position of Fig. 12 where the ball 304 is cammed to the right to protrude into the bore 356 locking the holder 308 to the detent bar 312 with neeale 93 in a raised inoperative position.
The pulse of air on conduit 1138 (Fig. 53) operates the valve 1140 to connect the conduit 1150 to the supply ; and to ex~aust the conduit 1210. Air pressure in the conduit 1150 operates the air cylinder 500 to advance the piston rod 502 (Fig. i) and the arm 504 to insert the cam 506 (Fig. 25) behind the tension release lever 508 to release the thread tension mechanism 494. Also the advancement of the piston -rod 502 advances the thread slack member 515 (Fig. 1) causing the looped end 516 to pull an additional amount of thread through the thread tension mechanism 494.
Air pressure in the conduit 1150 (Fig. 53) operates the impulse valve 1152 which applies an air pulse through the conduit 1156 to the first port of the valve 1112 dis-connecting the conduit 1110 from the conduit 1114 and to exhaust conduit 1114, the tubular sections 207 and 208 and the booster valve 1116.
The pulse of air on conduit 1156 operates the seven port valve 1158 in the logic valve unit 1160 connecting the ~upply to conduit 1170 and connecting the conduit 1180 to the restricted exhau~t line 1183. Air pressure in conduit 1170 is applied through the valve 1172 to the advance ports of the left upper thread cutter air cylinder 390 and the left lower thread cutter air cylinder 662. The retract or exhau~ting ports of the air cylinders 390 and 662 are connected through conduit 1176 and the valve 1178 to conduit 1180.
Since the exhaust 1183 is restricted, air pressure on the diaphragm of valve 1164 opens the valve 1164 connecting the conduit 1186 to the exhaust 1188 to prevent air from conduit 1170 through the restriction 1184 increasing the air pressure in the conduit 1186.
As illustrated in Figs. 16, 17, 18 and 19, when the air cylinder 390 is operated the piston rod 392 is advanced to advance the left snagging blades 376 and 380 to 10~;~634 push the can~ning edge~ 410 into engagement with the thread 414 cau~ing the thread to move to the right until'the thread 414 drops into the recess behind the hook portions 418 of the blade~ 376 and 380. Similarly, the leftllower snagging blades 682 and 686 (Figs. 34 and 35) are advanced by the pieton rod 666 (Fig. 4) to hook the left lower thread 722.
Referring back to Fig. 53, when the air piston rod~ 392 and 666 reach the end of their travel, the exhausting preseure air in the conduit 1180 drops to zero causing the diaphragm valve 1164 to close. Prossurized air entering conduit 1186 through the restriction 1184 from the conduit 1170 then operates the impulse valve 1168 produci,ng an impul~e oP air on the conduit 1190 which iB applied through , the de~y chamber 1192~ after a delay, to the conduit 1194 to the ~econd port of the valve 1158 to connect the supply to conduit 1180 and to connect the conduit 1170 to the re~tricted - exhawt 1182. Air pressure in the conduit 1180 retract~ the pieton rods 392 and 666~ the upper left snagging blades 376 and 380 and the lower left ~nagging blade~ 682 and 686.
As illu~trated in Fig. 20, the retraction of the snaggin~g blade~ 376 and 380 pulls the thread 414 back into engagoment with the knife edge 422 of the cutting blade 378.
8ince the ~evering edge 422 is ~loped backward to the l~ft as shown in Fig. 18, the thread 414 is can~ed behind the hook portion~ 418 preventing the thread 414 from being pu~hed out of the hook portions 418. Purther the ~lope of the 'sovering edge 422 causes ~ome tearing or' sawing action of the thread 414 in addition to ~ubjecting the thread 414 Y~

1(~43634 to a shearing action between the upper thread snagging blade 380 and the knife edge 422, thus severing of the thread results even when the severing edge becomes dull through prolonged usage. The lower left thread cutting blades 682 and 686 (Fig. 34) operate in a similar manner to sever the i lower thread 722 on the severing edge 730 of the cutting blade 698 with both shearing and sawing action.
As shown in Fig. 21, when the upper left snagging blade 380 is fully retracted the severed end of the thread 414 e~tending from the needle 93 ~Fig. 1) is gripped between the thread retaining element 428 under the force of the spring 432 ~Fig. 17). Retaining the severed end of the thread along with the slack drawn by the ~hread slack member 515, prevents subsequent operation of the sewing machine 64 and the movement of the needle 93 from pulling the thread 414 out of the needle 93. The severed end of the thread extending from the article is allowed to fall freely from the cutter through he V-shaped groove 425.
Referring back to Fig. 53, the exhausting air from the advance port of the air cylinders 390 and 662 is passed through conduit 1174, valve 1172, conduit 1170 and valve 1158 to the restricted exhaust 1182. The pressure in conduit 1170 due to the restriction 1182 is sufficuent to operate the diaphragm valve 1162 to connect the conduit 1198 to the unre~tricted exhaust 1200. After the piston rods 392 and 666 are fully retracted, the pressure within the conduit 1170 drops closing the valve 1162 and allowing the pressure in conduit 1198 from air passing through restriction ., f 1196 to increase and operate the impulse valve 1166. A
~3 pulse of air is produced by impulse valve 1166 on conduit 1 1202 which is applied to the first port of the valve 1204 connecting the supply to conduit 1206. Pressure in the conduit 1206 operates the valve 1140 to connect the source to conduit 1210 and to exhaust the conduit 1150 resetting 1 impulse valve 1152. The air pressure in conduit 1210 is I applied to the retract port of the air cylinder 500 re-tracting the piston rod 502 (Fig. 1) and the thread slack -~
, 10 member 515 leaving the additional amount of thread slack.
i Also the tension release cam arm 504 is retracted allowing 'f the thread tension mechanism 494 to apply tension to the ¦ threads 414 and 416.
The air pressure in the conduit 1206 (Fig. 53) f 15 operates the valve 1120 disconnecting the source from the ~ conduit 1124 and connecting the conduit 1124 to exhaust which ¦ close~ the air switch 892 and allows the spring return of the brake air cylinder 130 to retract the brake shoe 126 (Fig. 5) from engagement with the brake disc 112. A~ shf~wfn in Fig.
42, closing the air switch 892 energizes the power control terminal 891 through switch 894, contacts 896 and switch 890 to ~tart the motor 66 in its low speed.
The air pressure in conduit 1206 (Fig. 53) passes through valve 1208 to conduit 1216 operating the valve 1218 `
to connect the supply to the conduit 1220 and exhaust conduit ` 1222 operating the air switch 924 and appyling air pressure ; to the retract port of the clutch air cylinder 172. The air ~`
pressure in conduit 1220 also operates the valves 1208 and 1142. The valve 1208 disconnects the conduit 1206 from the conduit 1216 80 that the va-lve 1218 can be operated ~043634 at a later time by air pres~ure on its second port.
Operation of valve 1142 disconnects the conduit 1138 from the conduit 1146 and connects the conduit 1138 to the conduit 1144 thus allowing a ~ubsequent air pulse in the conduit 1138 to operate the valve 1148 to return the needle 93 to its lowered position. As shown in Fig. 42, operation of the air switch 924 operates the contact arm 922 to connect with the normally open contact 928 in preparation for later high speed operation of the motor 66 a~d sewing machine 64.
Referring to Fig. 7, retraction of the piston rod 174 in the air cylinder 172 applies force through the clevis 176 and the thrust bearing 178 to the cam 158 urging the cam upward into engagement with the pin 154. The pin 154 is not nece~arily aligned with one of the holes 156 in the top of the cam 158. Rotation of the projecting portion 152 by the tubular ~haft 144, worm wheel 142, w~rm gear 140, shaft 122, cog pulley 120 (Fig. 5), cog beLt 118 and cog pulley 114 ~lides the pin 154 on the upper surface of the cam 158 untll the pin 154 reaches one of the holes 156 where it engages the one hole 156 disengaging the pin 16el from the hole 170 . The cam 158 then rotates wi~h the pro~ecting portion 162. Referring to Fig. 6, the cam follc~wer 196 on the arm 197 which i8 biased by the piston 200 from the air cylindar 201 follow~ the outer periphery of the cam 158.
The arm 197 pivot~ about point 198 moving the cam follower 222 between the flanges 218 and 220 causing the shaft 210 to follow the movement o the arm 197. As shown in Fig. 9, the bracket 224, the transverse feed plate 226, the block 244, the .

~' ~.. . . .. . .
:.'; .. ,. ,.,j!i: . . .

guide shafte 248, the foot support block 250, the brakcet 260 and the pres~er foot 87 follow the movement of the shaft 210 to produce the transverse lines of stitche~ 1372 and 1374 (Fig. 59). The large steps 202 and 203 (Fig. 8) prevent brea~age of the needle 94 by engagement with the fastener elements 79 and 80 (Fig. 2~ of the fastener chain 68. When the cam 158 moves to its up position, the air valve 180 ~Fig. 7) is operated by movement of the cam SDllower roller 184 and the anm 182. As illustrated in Fig. 52, the valve 180 di~connects the conduit 1242 rom the conduit 1238 and connects the conduit 1240 and air ~witch 916 to the conduit 1238.
When the air swit~h 916 i8 operated, the contact arm 914 (Fig.
42) disengages the contact 918 and engages the normally open contact 920 to connect the power terminal 884 through contacts gO0, contact arm 904, contact 912, contact arm 914, contact 920, contact arm 922, and contact 928 to the high ~peed termin~
910 of the motor control circuit 110 operating the motor 66 at high ~peed. Also, the valve 180 exhausb the conduit 1242 r-eottlng the impulse valve 1244 in Fig. 53 .
At a point determined by the projection 192 (Fig. 7) on ~he bottom of the cam 158, the air valve 186 i8 operated by the engagement of the pro~ection 192 with the wheel 190 and the member 188. As illustrated in Fig. 53 operation of the valve 186 connects the supply to conduit 1246 which operates valve~ 1172, 1178, 1218, 1247, 1248 (Fig. ~2) and 1249. The operation of the valves 1172 and 1178 connects the conduits 1170 and 1180 to the respective conduits 1256 and 1258 to prepare for later operation of the right upper ,~

.

1043~34 and lower thread cutting mechanisms. Operating the valve 1218 connects the supply to conduit 1222 and exhausts conduit 1220 operating the air cylinder 172 toJurge advance-ment of the piston rod 174. Exhausting conduit 1220 de-actuates air switch 924 which, as shown in Fig. 42j moves contact arm 922 out of engagement with contact 928 opening the circuit ~ the high speed terminal 910 to cause the motor 66 to operate at low speedO Referring to Fig. 7, the advance-ment of the piston rod 174 moves the cam 158 downward into engagement with the pin 168. Since there is only one hole 170 for each complete transverse cycle by the cam 158, the cam will continue to rotate until the hole 170 is aligned with the pin 168 to allow the cam 158 to move downward out of engagement with the pin 154 in posi~ion for the next tran~-verse cycle. The operation of the valve 1247 (Fig. 53) applies air pressure to the conduit 1250 operating the valve 1122 to disconnect the supply from conduit 1126 and to exhaust the conduit 1126 resetting the impulse valve 1136.
The air pressure operating valve 1248 (Fig. 52) is applied to conduit 1252 operating the valve 1096 to connect the supply to conduit 1100 and to exhau~t conduit 1098 retracting the piston rod 796 in the fastener chain cutter air cylinder 798. Referring to Fig. 36, retracting the piston rod 796 results in the raising of the yoke member 760 to raise the cutting blades 764 and 766 away from the die blocks 772 and 776, Operation of the shuttle valve 1249 (Fig~ 52) by the valve 196 applies air pressure through conduit 1285 to the first port of valve 1284 operating the valve 1284 to connect the reset manifold to the restricted conduit 1286 to prepare for a subsequent feeding of the fastener chain during the next reset operation.
The air pressure previously applied to the conduit 1210 (Fig. 53) is also applied -through a delay chamber 1212 to a conduit 1214 to operate the valve 1204 disconnecting the source from the conduit 1206 and exhausting the conduit 1206 t prepare for the pending restopping of the sewin~ machine.
When the cam 158 (Fig. 7) moves downward engaging the pin 168 in the hole 170, the air valve 180 is operated to connect the conduit 1242 (Fig. 52) to the conduit 1238 and to exhaust the conduit 1240. Air pressure on conduit 1242 from conduit 1238 operates the impulse valve 1244 (Fig. 53) which applie~ an air pressure .;pulse through conduit 1270, shuttle valve 1272 and conduit 1274 to operate the valve 1112 which connects the conduit 1110 to the conduit 1114.
When the positiondisc 205 again aligns the slot 206 (Fig. 6) with the tube sections 207 and 208, the booster valve 1116 is operated to again apply air pressure to conduit 1118 operating the valve 1120 to connect the supply to conduit 1124 and operate the brake air cylinder 130 and the air switch 892 stopping the sewing machine.
Air pressure in the conduit 1118 operates the I valve 1122 to connect the supply ~o conduit 1126 operating ¦ 25 the impulse valve 1136. The pulse of air pressure on the output of the valve 1136 is applied through conduit 1138 ¦ to the valve 1140 changing the connection of the supply fromthe conduit 1210 to conduit 1150 and connecting the conduit ~.

.

1(~36;34 1210 to exhaust. The pressure in conduit 1150 operates the air cylinder 500 and the tension releasing mechanism 95 (Fig. 1) to again pull additional thread through the thread tension mechanism 494 (Fig. 25) as previously described, The pressure in conduit 1150 operates the impulse valve 1152 to again produce a pulse of air pressure on conduit 1156 operating the valve 1112 to disconnect conduit 1110 from conduit 1114 and operating the logic valve 1160.
The logic valve 1160 alternately applies air pressure through conduits 1170 and 1180 and valves 1172 and 1178 to the respective conduits 1256 and 1258 operating the right hand upper and lower thread cutting air cylinders 409 and 665.
Referring to Fig. 16, 18, and 19, the operation of the air cylinder 409 advances and retracts the right upper snagging blades 402 and 404 to snag the thread 416 and to sever the thread 416 with the severing edge 424 of the cutting blade 406 in a manner similar to that previously described for the upper left thread cutting mechanism. The severed end of the thread 416 extending from the needle 94 is held by the thread retaining element 435. Referring to Figs. 4 and 34, operation of the air cylinder 664 advances and retracts the right lower snagging blades 684 and 688 to sever the -~thread 724 with the severing edge 732 of the cutting blade 700 in a manner similar to that described for the lower left thread cutting mechanism.
The air pressure in conduit 1150 (Fig. 53) operates the valve 1154 disconnecting the conduit 1266 from the conduit 1268. The air pressure in conduit 1256 from the logic valve 1160, operates the impulse valve 1260 producing -1~)43Çi~:~4 a pulse of air in conduit 1262 operating the valve 1264 to connect the source to the conduit 1266 and open switch 890 which, as shown in Fig. 42, disconnects the power terminal 884 from the power control terminal 891 to prevent further operation of the motor 66~ When the logic valve 1160 completes its operation it again operates the valve 1204 producing air pressure in conduit 1206 operating the valve 1140 to switch the source from the conduit 1150 to the conduit 1210 and to connect the conduit 1150 to exhaust. Exhausting conduit 1150 allows the valve 1154 to return to its state where the conduit 1266 is connected to the conduit 1268. The air pressure in conduit 1268 from conduit 1266 opens the air switch 934 deenergizing the solenoid 932 (Fig. 42) and the automatic cycle relay coil 930 to open contacts 896 and 900 and to close contacts 886 and 898. Deenergizing the solenoid 932 allows the spring return of valve 1072 (Fig. 52) to connect the source to conduit 1074 operating valve 1078 to connect conduit 1076 to conduit 1080 in preparation for the next cycle. The air pressure in conduit 1268 passes through shuttle valve 1068 and conduit 1070 operating the presser foot air cylinder 270 to raise the presser foot 87 (Fig. 1).
The pulse of air pressure in conduit 1138 passes through valve 1142 and conduit 1144 to ~he valve 1148 connect-ing the supply to the conduit 288 and exhausting the conduit 290 to operate the needle retracting air cylinder 292, Referring to Figs. 11 and 12 air pressure in conduit 288 (Fig.
10) moves the piston rod 296 downward disengaging the cam face 340 from the ball 304 allowing the ball 304 to be . - .

,: , , . . :

3*34 :~

disengaged from the bore 356. Continued downward movement ~
of the cam 300 engages the cam face 338 with the ball 306 forcing the ball to the right against the flat 350 where-upon the assembly of the cam 300, ball 306 and retractable needle holder 308 move downward together until the ball 306 reaches the bore 358 where it is forced to project into the bore 358 by the cam face 338 to lock the retractable holder 308 in its lower po~ition.
Linear motors, such as air cylinders, of a size sufficiently small to be contained in a needle bar 274 do not produce sufficient force to maintain a down position when the needle 93 engages an article. The provision of the locking member 306 allows the use of a small linear motor for moving the retractable holder 308. Securing the holder 308 in its down ~sit~n bythelccku~mem~r 306 insures ~, that the needles are locked together. When the holder 308 i~ thus locked, it can withstand forces, such as the engagement o~ the needle 93 with an article, many times as great as the moving force produced by the air cylinder 292.
The air pressure on conduit 1206 (Fig. 53) again !V
operates the valve 1120 to disconnect the supply from the conduit 1124 and to exhaust the conduit 1124 closing the air switch 892 and releasing the brake air cylinder 130. The application of air pressure to conduit 1210 again retracts the tension release piston rod 502 and through delay 1212 operates valve 1204 to disconnect the supply from conduit 1206 and to exhaust conduit 1206. Removing the article -; with the section of fastener chain sewed thereto, the sewing ' 1~4.~4 apparatus is in condition for the initiation of another cycle of operation.
Referring to Figs. 39, 41 and 42, when the conductive strip 856 is sensed by the contacts 862 and 864 indicating that the fastener chain 68 has a fault therein, the solenoid 938 (Fig. 42) is energized from the power terminal 884. Energization of the solenoid 938 operates the valve 1322 (Fig. 52) connecting the supply to conduit 1328 which prevents the valve 1236 from being operated by air pressure on conduit 1234 from the reset valve 613.
Additionally the air pressure in conduit 1328 closes the air switch 940 to energize the indicating lamp 942 (Fig. 42) indicating the presence of the fault in the astener chain.
To allow urther operation of the sewing apparatus, the operator depresses the push button valve 1326 which connects the supply to conduit 1324 operating the valve 1322 to dis-connect the source from conduit 1328 and connect the conduit 1328 to exhaust. Depressing the manual tape feed push button valve 1304 connects the source to conduit 1306 applying air pressure through shuttle valve 1249 and conduit 1285 to the first port of valve 1284 to connect the reset manifold 1282 to the restricted conduit 1286. Operation ' of the manual reset valve 613 then applies air pressure through conduit 1232,shuttle valve 1230, conduit 1234 to the valve 1236 connecting the source to conduit 1280 and the reset manifold 1282 to operate the tape feed air cylinder 820 to ¦ advance to feed an additional length of the fastener chain. Release of the reset valve 613 results in slow .

retraction of the air cylinder 820 as previously described.
Repeated operation of the tape feed air valve 1304 and the reset valve 613 will feed the fastener chain until the defective portion of the fastener chain has been fed S past the fastener chain cutting mechanism 89. Operation j of the push button valve 1308 connect~ the source to the ! conduit 1310 to operate the air valve 1312 connecting the source to conduit 1318 and applying air pressure through shuttle valve 1092 and conduit 1094 to the first port of the valve 1096. Operation of the valve 1308 also exhausts conduit 1314 resetting the impulse valve 1316. Operation of the valve 1096 connects the source to conduit 1098 and ! exhausts conduit 1100 to operate the tape cutter air cylinder 798 and cut the fastener chain as previous described. Upon lS release of the push button valve 1308 the valve 1312 i~
allowed to return connecting the source to conduit 1314 to operate the impulse valve 1316. A pulse of air pressure i from the impulse valve 1316 is applied through shuttle valve ! 1248 and conduit 1252 to the second port of the valve 1096, ¦ 20 retracting the fastener chain cutting air cylinder 798.One particular advantage of the spring biased spring seam closing members 539 and 540 is illustrated in Figs. 62 and 63. An article, indicated generally at 1381 has a transverse seam 1383 which results in folded seam allowances which must pass between the seam closing members 539 and 540. As shown in Fig, 3, the spring biased seam closing members 539 and 540 spread outward allowing the extra width of article due to the transverse seam 1383 to 1 , .

, !~ ; - - ~ ; -- . - -~
...., - . . ~ , --,,, ,, . , . .. ., . , .. ,.. , . - .. ...
,.,,, , ,, . ., .. , , , ,,, , . - . ., , . , . ,, , ;. ... . . . . .. .

10~3~34 pass between the members 539 and 540 while maintaining portions 1385 and 1386 of the article 1381 in abutment.
Since many variations, modifications and change~
in detail(for example cam control circuits or other alternate S forms of electric and/or pneumatic controls,sensing devices, etc.)can be made to the present embodiment it is intended that all matter in the above de~cription and ~hown in the drawing~ be interpreted as illu~trative and not in a lim~ting sen~e.

~i`, ,. .
~ . .
.. . . . . .

Claims (33)

The embodiments of the invention in which an exclusive property or privilege is claimed are defined as follows:

1. An apparatus for sewing a pair of tapes of a fastener chain to respective portions of an article having an opening between the portions which are joined at a terminal point at one end of the opening, the apparatus comprising a pair of means each including a needle for forming stitches from a respective thread, means for feeding the pair of tapes and the portions of the article through the pair of stitch forming means to form a pair of parallel spaced lines of stitches each fasten-ing a tape to a respective portion, manual control means for initiating operation of the pair of stitch forming means and the feeding means, means for sensing the terminal point of the opening, and automatic control means responsive to the sensing means for terminating the operation of the pair of stitch forming means and the feeding means.

2. An apparatus as claimed in claim 1 wherein the fastener chain has a continuous length and wherein there is included means responsive to the sensing means for severing the fastener chain to form a severed section of fastener chain attached to the article.

3. An apparatus as claimed in claim 1 wherein the automatic control means includes means for disabling one of the stitch forming means, and there is included means responsive to the automatic control means for feeding the tapes and portions transverse to the parallel lines of stitches to form a transverse line of stitches attaching the tapes and the portions together.

4. An apparatus as claimed in claim 3 wherein the transverse feeding means feeds the tapes and portions transversely and returns to form a pair of transverse lines of stitches.

5. An apparatus as claimed in claim 3 wherein the fastener chain has a continous length and wherein there is included means responsive to the sensing means for severing the fastener chain to form a severed section of fastener chain attached to the article.

6. An apparatus as claimed in claim 5 wherein the severing means is positioned to form a severed section having a length slightly longer than the opening, and the automatic control means advances the portions and tapes to continue the parallel lines of stitches adjacent the terminal point and the trailing end of the severed section of fastener chain before operation of the disabling means and the transverse feeding means.

7. An apparatus as claimed in claim 1 wherein one of the pair of stitch forming means includes means for moving its needle between an operative position and an inoperative position, the automatic control means includes means for operating the needle moving means to move the one needle to its inoperative position, and there is included means responsive to the automatic control means for feeding the tapes and portions transverse to the parallel lines of stitches to form a transverse line of stitches attaching the tapes and the portions together.

8. An apparatus as claimed in claim 7 which includes means for locking the one needle moving means in the operative position.

9. An apparatus as claimed in claim 8 including means, operable after the operation of the transverse feeding means, for operating the one needle moving means to move the one needle to its operative position and for operating the one needle locking means.

10. An apparatus as claimed in claim 3 which includes means operated by the automatic control means for severing the thread extending from the needle in the one stitch forming means.

11. An apparatus as claimed in claim 10 which includes means operated after the transverse feeding means for severing the thread extending from the needle in the other stitch forming means.

12. An apparatus as claimed in claim 10 which includes means for retaining the severed end of the thread extending from the needle in the one stitch forming means.

13. An apparatus as claimed in claim 10 wherein the severing means includes a support, a severing blade mounted on the support and having a severing edge, a pair of snagging blades slidably mounted on opposite sides of the severing blade and each having hook portions for snagging the thread, and means for advancing and retracting the snagging blades to snag the thread with the hook portions when advanced and to engage the thread with the severing edge to cut the thread when retracted.

14. An apparatus as claimed in claim 13 which includes a thread retaining element, and bias means for urging the thread retaining element into engagement with one of the snagging blades to hold the severed end of the thread extending from the needle between the thread retaining element and the one snagging blade.

15. An apparatus as claimed in claim 1 wherein the portions of the article have folded seam allowances and there is included a scroll having opposite concave surfaces defining channels for receiving respective folded seam allowances, and a pair of folding plates each extending into the respective channels of the scroll for guiding and maintaining the folded seam allowances.

16. An apparatus as claimed in claim 15 includ-ing a pair of spring biased members, each extending from a respective folding plate toward each other for maintaining and guiding the folded seam allowances in abutting relationship to the pair of stitch forming means.

17. An apparatus as claimed in claim 15 which includes means for adjusting the size of the channels in the scroll.

18. An apparatus as claimed in claim 3 wherein the tape and portion feeding means includes a presser foot, means for biasing the presser foot downward against the portions and the tapes, feed dog means for moving upward against the portions and tapes beneath the presser foot and in a first direction to feed the tapes and portions, and means responsive to the automatic control means for rendering the feed dog means inoperable.

19. An apparatus as claimed in claim 18 wherein the feed dog means includes a feed dog, means for reciprocating the feed dog in the first direction, a rotatable cam, a cam follower member mounted on the feed dog and vertically displaced relative to the cam, a slidable cam follower insert, and means for moving the insert from a position between the cam follower member and the cam where the cam engages the insert to a position removed from the cam where the cam engages the cam follower member.

20. An apparatus as claimed in claim 1 wherein the sensing means includes means for projecting into the opening to be engaged by the terminal point of the opening.

21. An apparatus as claimed in claim 20 wherein the projecting means includes an arm pivotally mounted in alignment with the feeding means and having a raised position for extending into the opening of the article and being engaged by the terminal point of the opening to pivot to a lowered position.

22. An apparatus as claimed in claim 21 wherein there is included means for guiding each of the portions of the article to a respective stitch forming means, and the arm in the lowered position has an upper surface extending toward a top of the portion guiding means to raise the article above the portion guiding means.

23. An apparatus as claimed in claim 15 wherein the sensing means includes an arm pivotally mounted in alignment with the scroll and having a raised position for extending into the opening of the article and being engaged by the terminal point of the opening to pivot to a lowered position where the arm has a upper surface extending toward a top of the scroll to lift the article above the scroll, and there is included means responsive to the arm in the lowered position for moving the folding plates to a position spaced from the scroll channels.

24. An apparatus for sewing a pair of tapes of a fastener chain having a pair of interlocking sets of fastening elements, each set attached to a respective tape, to respective portions of an article having an opening between the portions which are joined at a terminal point at one end of the opening and which have folded seam allowances, said apparatus comprising a pair of means each including a needle for forming stitches from a respective thread, motor means for operating both of the stitch forming means, brake means for stopping the stitch forming means, a presser foot, means for biasing the presser foot downward into engagement with the article and fastener chain, feed dog means operated by the motor means for feeding the article and the fastener chain in a direction beneath the presser foot to simultaneously sew parallel lines of stitches attaching the pair of tapes to the respective portions, means for moving one of the needles between an operative position and an inoperative position in the stitch forming means, and means for locking the one needle moving means in the operative position and in the inoperative position;
guiding means including a pair of opposite scroll portions, means for adjusting the concave opening of the scroll portion to accommodate different thickness of material, and a pair of slidable folding plates each including a spring biased tip adjacent the scroll for maintaining and guiding the folded seam allowances in abutting relationship to the presser foot and feed dog means;
means for feeding and guiding the end of a con-tinuous length of fastener chain to the presser foot and feed dog means;
manual means for initiating operation of the motor means;
an arm pivotally mounted in alignment with the guiding means and having a raised position for extending into the opening and being engaged by the terminal point of the opening to pivot to a lowered position, said arm when in the lowered position having an upper surface extending toward the top of scroll for raising the article above the scroll;
means for sensing the arm pivoting to the lowered position;
means, operated by the sensing means, for opening the slidable folding plates;

means, operated by the sensing means, for severing the fastener chain to form a severed section of fastener chain attached to the article;
automatic means, operated by the sensing means, for deactuating the manual means and for automatically operating the motor means;
means for stopping the motor means and operating the brake means to terminate the forming of the parallel lines of stitches adjacent the terminal point;
means, operated when the motor stopping and brake operating means are operated, for releasing the tension of the threads from the needles to the article;
means, operated when the motor stopping and brake operating means are operated, for producing an additional amount of thread slack in the thread to the needles:
means, operated when the motor stopping and brake operating means are operated, for severing the thread from the one needle to the article;
spring biased means for retaining the severed end of the thread extending from the one needle;
means, operated when the motor stopping and brake operating means are first operated, for operating the one needle moving means to move the one needle to the inoperative position;
means, operated when the motor stopping and brake operating means are first operated, for disabling the feed dog means;

means, operated after a delay from the first operation of the motor stopping and brake operating means, for termi-nating operation of the brake operating and motor stopping means;
means for transversely feeding the article and fastener chain to form a transverse line of stitches from one of the parallel lines of stitches to the other parallel line of stitches and back again;
means, operated when the transverse feeding means returns, for reinitiating operation of the brake operating and motor stopping means;
means, operated when the operation of the brake operating. and motor stopping means is reinitiated, for severing the thread from the other needle to the article;
spring biased means for retaining the severing end of the thread extending from the other needle; and means, operated when the operation of the brake operating and motor stopping means is reinitiated, for raising the presser foot from engagement with the article.

25. An apparatus as claimed in claim 3 wherein the stitch forming means includes an elongated reciprocal vertical support means, first means for securing a first needle at the lower end of the support means, second means for securing a second needle, said second securing means being slidably mounted along the support means from an operative lowered position at the lower end of the support means to the inoperative raised position spaced from the lower end of the support means, and means for locking the second securing means in the operative lowered position; and the disabling means includes a linear reciprocal motor mounted on the support means for moving the second securing means between the operative lowered and inoperative raised positions.

26. An apparatus as claimed in claim 25 wherein the second securing means is slidably mounted along an axis of the support means; and the locking means includes a first recess formed in the support means transverse to the axis, a second recess formed in the second securing means transverse to the axis, a locking member slidably mounted in the second recess, and camming means movable by the motor for engaging the locking member to urge the locking member both downward and transverse to the axis to move the second securing means to the operative lowered position where the locking member is urged into the first recess.

27. An apparatus as claimed in claim 26 wherein the locking member is a spherical ball.

28. An apparatus as claimed in claim 27 wherein the support means has a third recess spaced above the first recess;
the second securing means has a fourth recess spaced from the second recess and which is aligned with the third recess when the second securing means is in the inoperative raised position;
there is included a second locking member slidably mounted in the fourth recess; and the camming means has a camming portion for engaging the second locking member to urge the second locking member both upward and transverse to the axis to move the second securing means to the inoperative raised position where the camming means urges the second locking member into the third recess.

29. An apparatus as claimed in claim 16 which includes means for movably mounting the pair of folding plates, and means for moving the edges of the folding plates out of the scroll channels.

30. An apparatus as claimed in claim 15 wherein the scroll includes opposite upper concave scroll portions, which with the upper scroll portions form the channels for receiving the folded edges of the article portions, and means for adjusting the relative positions between the upper scroll portions and the lower scroll portions to adjust the capacity of the channels.

31. An apparatus as claimed in claim 30 wherein the adjusting means includes camming means for determining the relative positions of the upper and lower scroll portions.

32. An apparatus as claimed in claim 30 where the adjusting means includes screw means for determining the relative positions of the upper and lower scroll portions.

33. An apparatus as claimed in claim 30 which includes means controlled by the adjusting means for correspondingly adjusting the depth of the extension of the folding plates into the channel.