BR112021003479A2 - hair care compositions in the form of an emulsion and methods of hair care and providing the hair with one or more hair care effects - Google Patents

Abstract

CAPILLARY TREATMENT COMPOSITIONS IN THE FORM OF EMULSION AND METHODS OF CAPILLARY TREATMENT AND PROVIDING THE HAIR WITH ONE OR MORE HAIR CARE EFFECTS. The present invention relates to a hair care composition in emulsion form comprising: (a) at least one reducing agent selected from thiol-based compounds; (b) at least one alkaline agent; (c) at least one thickening agent; (d) at least one salt; (e) optionally, at least one cationic surfactant; and (f) water; wherein the pH of the composition is less than 7. The present invention also relates to methods of providing hair care benefits such as straightening effects, volume reduction, frizz control, manageability, cosmeticity and feel. smooth, plus conditioning benefits.

Description

"HAIR TREATMENT COMPOSITIONS IN THE FORM OF EMULSION AND METHODS OF CAPILLARY TREATMENT AND PROVIDING THE HAIR WITH ONE OR MORE EFFECTS OF HAIR CARE" FIELD OF INVENTION

[001] The present invention relates to stable hair care compositions comprising thiol-based reducing agents; and methods of providing cosmetic and hair care benefits using the hair care compositions.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[002] The quality and condition of hair are generally impaired by the action of external agents, such as sunlight, wind, pollution, moisture and substances in swimming pools, as well as by chemical or mechanical treatments, such as combing, brushing, washing with shampoo, dyeing, bleaching, permanent curling and/or relaxing.

Hair is, therefore, damaged by these various factors and, over time, can become dry, rough or opaque, especially in fragile areas, more specifically at the ends, generating split ends. Under these circumstances, hair can also become less manageable, more frizzy, less disciplined and more difficult to style or style.

[003] Hair care products are used to combat these disadvantages. Conventional hygiene compositions, such as shampoos, which contain surfactants such as anionic, non-ionic and/or amphoteric surfactants, can be used to remove the various types of dirt typically present on hair. These hygiene compositions, while providing good cleaning power, can result in a rough or less conditioned feel to the hair, due, for example, to the gradual removal of natural or applied fats, lipids or proteins contained on the hair surface. Furthermore, washing the hair with water alone can also make the hair tangled, less soft and dry.

[004] Hair conditioning products or hair mask can be used on hair after shampooing or rinsing, in order to provide hair care properties.

Traditional conditioners and masks provide conditioning, softness, softness and visual smoothness to hair and are usually rinse aids.

[005] Consumers also seek hair care products and regimens that can provide control or even eliminate frizz and control or reduce the volume and apparent mass of over-the-head hair, as well as provide additional benefits of altering appearance, shape or hair configuration. In addition, consumers want these products to provide continuous or longer lasting benefits to hair over a period of time. It is, therefore, desirable for hair care product manufacturers to formulate not only rinse-off shampoos and conditioners, but also products that do not involve immediate rinsing or provide longer term treatments, such as those provided by hair care products.

[006] One type of product that can style or configure the hair is hair styling products, such as maintenance gels and creams that employ ingredients such as film-forming polymers that provide desirable styling maintenance or styling while on the hair. . Some ingredients can, however, be easily removed from the hair, for example, by rinsing or washing. Any cosmetic benefits of these products to the hair are therefore generally reduced or removed after rinsing or washing the hair.

[007] Another type of composition that can be applied to hair to change its styling and make it more combable is an alkaline composition that is found in hair relaxers or commercial hair straighteners. These products can provide longer lasting styling or styling to hair. Alkaline hair relaxation/smoothing involves the hydrolysis of hair keratin with various alkaline agents, such as inorganic hydroxides, for example sodium hydroxide, or organic hydroxides, such as guanidine hydroxide, or organic amines.

Hair relaxers/straighteners that employ sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide are also called bleach-based products and products that use other alkaline agents, such as lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, organic hydroxides and other non-hydroxy compounds, such as organic amines, generally fall into the category of non-bleach products. It is still desirable to find alternatives to products with and without alkaline bleach and the process described above, which can damage hair by weakening and/or drying out the hair fibers.

[008] It is therefore highly desirable to have hair care products and regimens that, for example, relax or smooth wavy or frizzy hair, including wavy hair, or reduce/release curl, making hair more manageable, untangled, more easily shaped or hairstyles and disciplined. At the same time, it is also highly desirable that these regimens and products provide long-lasting cosmetic effects.

[009] It is the object of realizations of the present invention to provide hair care compositions with ingredients that can effectively condition the hair and, at the same time, provide a feeling of low weight, good styling/hairstyle or straightening benefits, as well as smoothing properties. improved manageability and hair care and other cosmetic properties such as volume control/reduction, frizz control/reduction, discipline (less flyaway strands) and shape regularity.

[0010] The discovery of new compositions and hair treatment processes that have improved efficacy, but provide little or minimal damage to the hair, can present challenges for manufacturers and formulators, as the incorporation of new ingredients into the compositions can have negative impacts on its performance, cosmetic attributes, texture and formulation stability. Additionally, acidity/alkalinity and/or pH are important considerations for these products. New processes for treating and altering the shape of hair can also impact the performance of the compositions, processing times and quality of use. Manufacturers of these products therefore continually test the use of new starting materials and ingredients or new product forms and seek to reformulate and create new products with the desired qualities while still remaining stable and safe to use.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0011] The present invention relates to stable hair care compositions comprising reducing agents based on thiol, thickening agents and salts. The use of at least one thickening agent and at least one salt increases the viscosity and stability of hair care compositions; and increases the spreadability of hair care compositions on the hair. The inventors have found that the viscosity and stability of hair care compositions can be maintained uniformly over time and under ample temperatures through the addition of salts. Without the salts, the viscosity of the hair care composition changes with temperature.

Hair care compositions are typically in the form of an emulsion and include the following: - at least one reducing agent selected from thiol-based compounds; - at least one alkaline agent; - at least one thickening agent; - at least one salt; - optionally, at least one cationic surfactant; and water; where the pH of the composition is less than 7.

[0012] In addition to the components described above, in some cases, hair care compositions may additionally include at least one nonionic surfactant, at least one silicone compound, at least one water-soluble solvent, etc.

[0013] The present invention also relates to hair treatment methods, which comprise applying the hair treatment composition according to the present invention to the hair and optionally heating the hair.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0014] "At least one", as used herein, is synonymous with "one or more" and includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

[0015] "Conditioning", as used herein, indicates the supply to one or more hair fibers of at least one property selected from combability, moisture retention, gloss, shine and softness. Conditioning state can be assessed by any means known in the art, such as measuring and comparing the combability of treated hair and untreated hair in terms of styling work (g-pol) and consumer perception.

[0016] The term "treat" (and its grammatical variations), as used herein, designates the application of the hair treatment compositions according to the present invention on the surface of the hair. The term "treat" (and its grammatical variations), as used herein, also means contacting the hair with the hair care compositions according to the present invention.

"Rinse" product means a composition such as a hair care composition that is rinsed and/or washed with water during or after application of the composition to the keratin substrate and before drying and/or styling said keratin substrate. At least a part of the composition is removed from the keratin substrate during rinsing and/or washing.

[0018] "Maintenance" product means a hair care composition such as a hair care composition that is applied to a keratin substrate such as hair and is not further subjected to a rinsing and/or washing step for at least one hour or for a period of time ranging from one hour to 72 hours, such as 4 hours to 48 hours, 8 hours to 36 hours, or 8 hours to 24 hours.

[0019] The term "stable", as used herein, indicates that the composition does not exhibit phase separation and/or crystallization.

[0020] The term "volatile", as used herein, indicates that it has a flash point of less than about 100 °C.

[0021] The expression "non-volatile", as used herein, indicates that it has a flash point of more than about 100 °C.

[0022] The expression "reducing agent", as used herein, indicates an agent capable of reducing the disulphide bonds of hair.

[0023] The term "active material", as used herein with respect to the percentage amount of ingredients or starting materials, indicates 100% activity of the ingredient or starting material.

[0024] The term "substituted", as used herein, indicates that it comprises one or more substituents. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen-containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulfonate groups, thiosulfate groups, siloxane groups and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may be further substituted.

[0025] The term "polymers", as defined herein, includes homopolymers and copolymers formed from at least two different types of monomers.

[0026] The term “INCI” is an abbreviation for the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the Personal Care Products Council's International Nomenclature Committee to describe personal care ingredients.

[0027] Hair care methods and compositions according to the present invention may comprise, consist or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the present invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components or limitations described herein or useful otherwise.

[0028] Unlike the operative examples or when indicated to the contrary, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients and/or reaction conditions must be understood as modified in all cases by the expression "about", which indicates within +/ - 5% of the indicated number.

[0029] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions according to the present invention, unless otherwise indicated.

[0030] As used herein, all ranges provided are intended to include all specific ranges within the ranges provided and combinations of sub-ranges in between. Thus, range 1-5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub-ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4 etc.

[0031] It is understood that the terms "a", "an" and "the" encompass the plural as well as the singular. The expression “one of its mixtures”, therefore, also indicates “its mixtures”. Throughout this descriptive report, the expression “one of its mixtures” can be used after a list of elements as shown in the following example where the letters AF represent the elements: “one or more elements selected from A , B, C, D, E, F and one of their mixtures”. The expression “one of its blends” does not require the blend to include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F can be included.

In other words, it is equivalent to the expression "one or more elements selected from A, B, C, D, E, F and a mixture of any two or more from A, B, C, D, E and F" .

[0032] Similarly, the expression "one of its salts" also indicates "its salts". When the descriptive report therefore indicates "an element selected from A, B, C, D, E, F, one of its salts and one of its mixtures", it indicates that one or more among A, B, C , D and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, salt of B, salt of C, salt of D, salt of E and salt of F may be included or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F,

A salt, B salt, C salt, D salt, E salt and F salt can be included.

[0033] Some of the various categories of components identified may overlap. In cases where there may be an overlap and the composition/product includes the two components (or the composition includes more than two overlapping components), an overlapping component does not represent more than one component. A fatty acid can be characterized, for example, as a non-ionic surfactant and a fatty compound.

If a specific composition includes a nonionic surfactant and a fatty compound, then a single fatty acid will only serve as a nonionic surfactant or just a fatty compound (the fatty acid alone does not serve as a nonionic surfactant and fatty compound).

[0034] The present invention relates to a hair care composition in the form of an emulsion comprising: - at least one reducing agent selected from compounds based on thiol; - at least one alkaline agent; - at least one thickening agent; - at least one salt; - optionally, at least one cationic surfactant; and water; where the pH of the composition is less than 7.

[0035] Thiol-based compounds can be selected from thiolactic acid and its derivatives, 3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives, cysteamine and its derivatives, cysteine and its derivatives, thioglycolic acid and its derivatives (including its esters), diammonium dithiodiglylate and mixtures thereof.

[0036] In some embodiments, the at least one reducing agent is a thiol-based compound selected from thiolactic acid,

glycerol monothiolactate, ammonium thiolactate, MEA thiolactate, 3-mercaptopropionic acid, glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate, ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate, cysteamine, N-acetylcysteamine, N-propionylcysteamine, cysteine, N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoyl alkyl esters of cysteine, homocysteine, thioglycolic acid, ethanolamine thioglycolate, glyceryl thioglycolate, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0037] In one embodiment, the at least one reducing agent is selected from thiolactic acid and its derivatives, such as one of its esters, one of its amides, one of its salts and one of its mixtures.

[0038] The at least one reducing agent can be selected from thiolactic acid, one of its esters, one of its amides, one of its salts and one of its mixtures and can be used in combination with other compounds based on thiol selected from thioglycolic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, homocystine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, 3-mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid, - acetylcysteine, its salts and mixtures.

[0039] In certain embodiments, the at least one reducing agent used in the composition according to the present invention is thiolactic acid.

[0040] The total amount of the at least one reducing agent in hair care compositions may vary, but is typically from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 16% by weight more preferably about 1 to about 14% by weight, more preferably about 2 to about 12% by weight, most preferably about 4 to about 10% by weight, and most preferably about 2 to about 12% by weight. , about 6 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition.

[0041] Non-limiting examples and useful alkali agents include organic amines, ammonium, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, alkali metal citrates, amino acids (eg L- lysine, L-arginine etc.) and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, aminomethyl propanediol, triisopropanol amine, dimethylstearylamine, dimethyl/tallowamine, lysine, ornithine, arginine, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, calcium hydroxide, calcium bicarbonate and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the alkaline agent is diamine, for example, diamine such as tetrahydroxyethyl ethylenediamine, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine dioleate or one of their mixtures. In one embodiment, preferred alkaline agent is alkali metal hydroxide and/or alkaline earth metal hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide or one of their mixtures. In one embodiment, particularly preferred alkaline agents are organic amines, especially alkanolamines, such as alkanolamines selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, tetrahydroxy propyl ethylenediamine and one of their mixtures; more preferably, triethanolamine. In one embodiment, the alkaline agent is selected from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, triethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol, and one of their mixtures.

[0042] The total amount of the at least one alkaline agent in the hair care composition may vary, but is typically from about 0.01 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 12% by weight more preferably about 0.2 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition.

[0043] In one embodiment of the present invention, the pH of the hair care compositions can range from about 2.5 to about 6.5, about 3 to about 6, about 3 to about 5.2, about 3 to about 5, preferably about 3 to about 4.8, more preferably about 3 to about 4.5, or even more preferably about 3 to about 4, including all thereof. tracks and subtracks.

[0044] Non-limiting examples of useful thickening agents include cellulose polymers, gums, modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, polyacrylamides, acrylic acid and acrylamide copolymers, sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids, 2-acid polymers and copolymers optionally cross-linked and/or neutralized acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate, glucans, modified or unmodified starches, silicas and mixtures thereof.

[0045] In preferred embodiment, the at least one thickening agent comprises gum, especially those derived from natural sources.

Non-limiting examples of useful gums include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, hectorite , hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, seaweed, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotic gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan , gum tragacanth, xanthan gum, biosaccharide gum and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred gums include xanthan gum, guar gum, biosaccharide gum, cellulose, acacia gum, seneca gum, sclerotic gum, agarose, gellan gum and mixtures thereof. In some cases, a combination of xanthan gum and sclerotic gum may be particularly useful.

A more complete list of useful thickening agents that can be included is provided later under the heading “Thickening Agent”.

[0046] In preferred embodiment, the at least one thickening agent comprises at least two gums selected from xanthan gum, sclerotic gum, gellan gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, carrageenan and mixtures thereof.

[0047] In preferred embodiment, the at least one thickening agent comprises xanthan gum and sclerotic gum. In one embodiment, a combination of xanthan gum and sclerotic gum is provided in the form of starting material available from Cargill under the tradename ACTIGUM VSX 20.

[0048] The total amount of the at least one thickening agent in the hair care compositions may vary, but is typically from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition. In some cases, the total amount of the at least one thickening agent is about 0.05 to about 8% by weight, about 0.05 to about 6% by weight, about 0.05 to about 5 % by weight, about 0.05 to about 3% by weight, about 0.05 to about 1% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 1% by weight, about 0.1 to about 0.75% by weight, about 0.2 to about 0.75% by weight, about about 0.25% by weight, about 0.5% by weight, about 0.75% by weight, including all bands and subbands thereof, based on the total weight of the hair care composition.

[0049] Non-limiting examples and salts that may be included in hair care compositions include sodium chloride, potassium chloride, magnesium chloride, sodium sulfate, potassium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, calcium chloride and one of their mixtures . The total amount of salt can vary, but is typically from about 0.01 to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition. In some cases, the total amount of salt is from about 0.01 to about 12% by weight, about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, about 0.05 to about 10% by weight, about 0.05 to about 5% by weight. weight, about 0.05 to about 4% by weight, about 0.05 to about 3% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 4% by weight, about 1 to about 3% by weight, about 1% by weight, about 2% by weight, about 3% by weight, including all bands and subbands thereof, based on the total weight of the hair care composition .

The ratio of the total amount of thickening agents to the total amount of salts in the hair care composition can vary, but is typically from about 1:10 to about 10:1 (thickening agents:salts). In some cases, the ratio of the total amount of thickening agent to the total amount of salts is from about 1:8 to about 8:1, about 2:1 to about 1:10, about 2:1 about 1:5, about 1:1 to about 1:10, about 1:1 to about 1:8, about 1:1 to about 1:5, or about 1:1 to about of 1:4.

[0051] The viscosity of hair care compositions can vary, but in some cases the viscosity is from about 10 to about 50 UD (deflection units) at 25°C. The viscosity can be from about 15 to about 50 UD, about 20 to about 50 UD, about 25 to about 50 UD, about 10 to about 45 UD, about 15 to 45 UD, about 20 to 45 UD, about 25 to about 45 UD, about 10 to about 40 UD, about 15 to about 40 UD, about 20 to about 40 UD, about 25 to about 40 UD, about 10 to about 35 UD, about 15 to about 35 UD, about 20 to about 35 UD, about 25 to about 35 UD, or about 30 UD, including all of its bands and subranges. Viscosity can be measured using Lamy Rheomat 200 at 200 RPM (revolutions per minute), spindle #3, 30 seconds at 25°C.

The viscosity of the hair care composition can be expressed in centipoise (cP) and can be from about 400 cP to about 2100 cP at 25°C. In some cases, the viscosity can be from about 650 to about 2100 cP, about 850 to about 2100 cP, about 1000 cP to about 2100 cP, about 400 cP to about 1900 cP, about 650 at about 1900 cP, about 850 to about 1900 cP, about 1000 to about 1900 cP, about 400 to about 1700 cP, about 650 to about 1700 cP, about 850 to about 1700 cP , about 1000 to about 1700 cP or about 1265 cP at 25 °C, including all its bands and subranges.

[0053] In some cases, the viscosity of the composition does not change by more than about 20% over a temperature range from about 25 °C to about 45 °C, about 15 °C to about 45 °C, about 10 °C to about 45 °C or about 5 °C to about 45 °C, including all its bands and sub-ranges.

[0054] If the viscosity is 30 UD at 25 °C and the viscosity does not change by more than 20%, for example, the viscosity at 45 °C can range from 24 UD to 36 UD. Furthermore, in some cases, the viscosity of the composition does not change by more than about 15%, about 10% or about 8% over a temperature range from about 25°C to about 45°C, about 15 oC to about 45 oC, about 10 oC to about 45 oC or about 5 oC to about 45 oC, including all its bands or sub-ranges.

[0055] In some cases, the viscosity of the composition does not change by more than about 20% over two months at constant temperature. Furthermore, in some cases, the viscosity of the composition does not change by more than about 15%, about 10% or about 8% over two months at constant temperature.

[0056] Additionally, in some cases, the viscosity of the composition does not change by more than about 20%, 15%, 10% or 8% over a temperature range from about 25 oC to about 45 oC, about 15 oC to about 45 oC, about 10 oC to about 45 oC or about 5 oC to about 45 oC; and/or does not change by more than about 20%, 15%, 10% or 8% over two months at constant temperature, including all its bands and sub-ranges.

[0057] Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants that can be included in the hair treatment composition include polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium compounds and their salts, as well as mixtures thereof, preferably quaternary ammonium compounds and their salts and, more preferably, those selected from cetrimonium chloride, beheotrimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl-hydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, beheotrimonium methosulfate and mixtures thereof. A more complete list of cationic surfactants that can be included is provided later under the heading “Cationic Surfactant”.

[0058] The total amount of the at least one cationic surfactant in hair care compositions, when present, may vary, but is typically from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition, including all bands and subbands thereof.

[0059] In some embodiments, hair care compositions according to the present invention include at least one nonionic surfactant. Non-limiting examples of nonionic surfactants include fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl (ether)phosphates, alkylpolyglycosides, fatty acid alkanolamides and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from linear or branched saturated/unsaturated fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 60 carbon atoms, preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyl decanol, palmityl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleic alcohol (or oleyl), linoleyl alcohol (or linoleyl ether), linolenic alcohol (or linolenyl), alcohol undecylenic acid and mixtures thereof, most preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol, steareth-20, Ceteth-10 phosphate PPG-5, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate , mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate, dicetyl phosphate, cetyl phosphate, stearyl phosphate, laureth-7, laureth-9, trideceth-10, trideceth-12, pareth-3 C12-13, pareth- 23 C12-13, Pareth-7 C11-15, PPG-5 ceteth-20, Propylene Glycol PEG-55, glycereth-26, decyl glycoside, cetearyl glycoside, decyl lauryl glycoside, stearyl glycoside, cocoglycoside, cocamide MIPA and mixtures thereof. A more complete list of non-ionic surfactants that can be included is provided later under the heading “Non-Ionic Surfactant”.

[0060] In one embodiment of the present invention, the total amount of the at least one nonionic surfactant may vary, but is typically from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably 0.5 to about 12% by weight. weight, more preferably about 1 to about 10% by weight, and most preferably about 2 to about 8% by weight, including all bands and subbands thereof, based on the total weight of the treatment composition. capillary.

[0061] In some embodiments of the present invention, hair care compositions include at least one silicone compound. Non-limiting examples of useful silicone compounds include dimethicone; aminosilicones such as amodimethicone, trideceth-9 PG amodimethicone, PEG-40/PPG-8 methylaminopropyl/hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer; dimethicone copolyols selected from oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl(methyl)siloxane, oxyethylenated and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl(C 8-C22) alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred silicone compounds include dimethicone and/or amodimethicone. A more complete list of useful silicone compounds that may be included is provided later under the heading "Silicone Compounds".

[0062] The total amount of the at least one silicone compound in hair care compositions may vary, but is typically from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 10% by weight. weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight, including all bands and subbands thereof, based on the total weight of the hair care composition.

Hair care compositions may be in the form of a gel, paste, lotion, cream or spray. In one embodiment, the hair care composition is a maintenance composition. In one embodiment, the hair care composition is a rinse-off composition.

[0064] In one embodiment of the present invention, the hair care composition includes: - about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 16% by weight, more preferably about about 1 to about 14% by weight, more preferably about 4 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 6 to about 10% by weight of at least one thiol-based compound selected from thiolactic acid, its esters, salts and mixtures, preferably thiolactic acid; - about 0.01 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 12% by weight, more preferably about 0.2 to about 10% by weight of the at least one selected alkaline agent from organic amines (such as alkanolamine), amino acid, ammonium salt,

alkali metal hydroxide, alkaline earth metal hydroxide, alkali metal carbonate, alkali metal phosphate, alkali metal citrate and mixtures thereof, preferably alkanolamine such as monoethanolamine,

diethanolamine, triethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol, tromethamine,

monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, triisopropanolamine and mixtures thereof;

- about 0.01 to about 10, preferably about

0.05 to about 6, more preferably about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of the at least one thickening agent selected from cellulose polymers, gums, modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers,

polyacrylamides, acrylic acid and acrylamide copolymers, sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids, 2-acrylamido-acid polymers and copolymers

optionally cross-linked and/or neutralized 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate, glucans, modified or unmodified starches, silicas and mixtures thereof;

- about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of the at least one salt selected to from sodium chloride,

potassium chloride, magnesium chloride, sodium sulfate, potassium sulfate,

magnesium sulfate, calcium chloride and mixtures thereof;

- optionally, about 0.1 to about 15% by weight,

preferably 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about

1 to about 6% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant selected from optionally polyoxyalkenyl primary, secondary and tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium compounds and their salts, as well as mixtures thereof, preferably from ammonium compounds quaternary and its salts, more preferably from cetrimonium chloride, beheotrimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl-hydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, beheotrimonium methosulfate and their mixtures; - optionally, about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 12% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 10% by weight of at least one nonionic surfactant selected from fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl(ether)phosphates, alkylpolyglycosides, fatty acid alkanolamides and mixtures thereof; - optionally, about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of the at least one silicone compound selected from dimethicone; aminosilicones such as amodimethicone, trideceth-9 PG amodimethicone, PEG-40/PPG-8 methylaminopropyl/hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer; dimethicone copolyol selected from oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl(methyl)siloxane, oxyethylenated and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl(C8-C22)alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane and mixtures thereof; and water; wherein the pH of the composition is less than 7 and the weight percentages are based on the total weight of the hair care composition.

[0065] In some embodiments, the pH can be from about pH 2 to about 6.5, about pH 2.1 to about 6, about pH 2.2 to about 5.2, such as about of pH 2.2 to about 5, preferably about pH 2.2 to about 4.8, more preferably about pH 2.2 to about 4.5 or most preferably about pH 2 .2 to about 4, including all its tracks and sub-tracks.

[0066] The viscosity of hair care compositions can vary, but in some cases the viscosity is from about 10 to about 50 UD (deflection units) at 25°C. The viscosity can be from about 15 to about 50 UD, about 20 to about 50 UD, about 25 to about 50 UD, about 10 to about 45 UD, about 15 to 45 UD, about 20 to 45 UD, about 25 to about 45 UD, about 10 to about 40 UD, about 15 to about 40 UD, about 20 to about 40 UD, about 25 to about 40 UD, about 10 to about 35 UD, about 15 to about 35 UD, about 20 to about 35 UD, about 25 to about 35 UD, or about 30 UD, including all of its bands and subranges. Viscosity can be measured using Lamy Rheomat 200 at 200 RPM (revolutions per minute), spindle #3, 30 seconds at 25°C.

[0067] The viscosity of the hair care composition can be expressed in centipoise (cP) and can be from about 400 cP to about 2100 cP at 25°C. In some cases, the viscosity can be from about 650 to about 2100 cP, about 850 to about 2100 cP, about 1000 cP to about 2100 cP, about 400 cP to about 1900 cP, about 650 at about 1900 cP, about 850 to about 1900 cP, about 1000 to about 1900 cP, about 400 to about 1700 cP, about 650 to about 1700 cP, about 850 to about 1700 cP , about 1000 to about 1700 cP or about 1265 cP at 25 °C, including all its bands and subranges.

[0068] In some cases, the viscosity of the composition does not change by more than about 20% over a temperature range of about 25 °C to about 45 °C, about 15 °C to about 45 °C, about 10 °C to about 45 °C or about 5 °C to about 45 °C, including all its bands and sub-ranges.

[0069] If the viscosity is 30 UD at 25 °C and the viscosity does not change by more than 20%, for example, the viscosity at 45 °C can range from 24 UD to 36 UD. Furthermore, in some cases, the viscosity of the composition does not change by more than about 15%, about 10% or about 8%, over a temperature range from about 25°C to about 45°C, about 15°C to about 45°C, about 10°C to about 45°C, or about 5°C to about 45°C, including all of its bands or sub-ranges.

[0070] In some cases, the viscosity of the composition does not change by more than about 20% over two months at constant temperature. Furthermore, in some cases, the viscosity of the composition does not change by more than about 15%, about 10% or about 8% over two months at constant temperature.

[0071] Additionally, in some cases, the viscosity of the composition does not change by more than about 20%, 15%, 10% or 8% over a temperature range from about 25°C to about 45°C, about 15°C to about 45°C, about 10°C to about 45°C, or about 5°C to about 45°C; and/or does not change by more than about 20%, 15%, 10% or 8% over two months at constant temperature.

[0072] In one embodiment of the present invention, the hair care composition includes: - about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 16% by weight, more preferably about about 1 to about 14% by weight, more preferably about 4 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 6 to about 10% by weight of at least one thiol-based compound selected from thiolactic acid, its esters, salts and mixtures, preferably thiolactic acid; - about 0.01 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 0.2 to about 8% by weight of the at least one alkaline agent, wherein the at least one alkaline agent is an alkanolamine selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine and one of their mixtures, preferably triethanolamine and/or aminomethylpropanol;

- about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of the at least one thickening agent, wherein the at least one thickening agent is a gum selected from xanthan gum,

guar gum, biosaccharide gum, cellulose, acacia gum, seneca gum,

sclerotic gum, agarose, gellan gum and mixtures thereof, preferably a combination of xanthan gum and sclerotic gum;

- about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.2 to about 3% by weight of sodium chloride;

- optionally, about 0.1 to about 15% by weight,

preferably 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about

1 to about 6% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant, wherein the at least one cationic surfactant is a quaternary ammonium compound such as cetrimonium chloride, beheotrimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, behelotrimonium methosulfate or a of its mixtures;

- optionally, about 0.1 to about 15% by weight,

preferably about 0.5 to about 12% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 10% by weight of at least one nonionic surfactant selected from fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, (ether)phosphates of alkyl, alkylpolyglycosides, fatty acid alkanolamides and mixtures thereof;

- optionally, about 0.1 to about 15% by weight,

preferably about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of the at least one silicone compound selected from dimethicone, amodimethicone and mixtures thereof; and

- Water;

wherein the pH of the composition is less than 7 and the weight percentages are based on the total weight of the hair care composition.

[0073] In some embodiments, the pH can be from about pH 2 to about 6.5, about pH 2.1 to about 6, about pH 2.2 to about 5.2, such as about of pH 2.2 to about 5, preferably about pH 2.2 to about 4.8, more preferably about pH 2.2 to about 4.5 or most preferably about pH 2 .2 to about 4, including all its tracks and sub-tracks.

[0074] The viscosity of hair care compositions can vary, but in some cases the viscosity is from about 10 to about 50 UD (deflection units) at 25°C. The viscosity can be from about 15 to about 50 UD, about 20 to about 50 UD, about 25 to about 50 UD, about 10 to about 45 UD, about 15 to 45 UD, about 20 to 45 UD, about 25 to about 45 UD, about 10 to about 40 UD, about 15 to about 40 UD, about 20 to about 40 UD, about 25 to about 40 UD, about 10 to about 35 UD, about 15 to about 35 UD, about 20 to about 35 UD, about 25 to about 35 UD, or about 30 UD, including all of its bands and subranges. Viscosity can be measured using Lamy Rheomat 200 at 200 RPM (revolutions per minute), spindle #3, 30 seconds at 25°C.

The viscosity of the hair care composition can be expressed in centipoise (cP) and can be from about 400 cP to about 2100 cP at 25°C. In some cases, the viscosity can be from about 650 to about 2100 cP, about 850 to about 2100 cP, about 1000 cP to about 2100 cP, about 400 cP to about 1900 cP, about 650 at about 1900 cP, about 850 to about 1900 cP, about 1000 to about 1900 cP, about 400 to about 1700 cP, about 650 to about 1700 cP, about 850 to about 1700 cP , about 1000 to about 1700 cP or about 1265 cP at 25 °C, including all its bands and subranges.

[0076] In some cases, the viscosity of the composition does not change by more than about 20% over a temperature range of about 25 °C to about 45 °C, about 15 °C to about 45 °C, about 10 °C to about 45 °C or about 5 °C to about 45 °C, including all its bands and sub-ranges.

[0077] If the viscosity is 30 UD at 25 °C and the viscosity does not change by more than 20%, for example, the viscosity at 45 °C can range from 24 UD to 36 UD. Furthermore, in some cases, the viscosity of the composition does not change by more than about 15%, about 10% or about 8%, over a temperature range from about 25°C to about 45°C, about 15°C to about 45°C, about 10°C to about 45°C, or about 5°C to about 45°C, including all its bands and sub-ranges.

[0078] In some cases, the viscosity of the composition does not change by more than about 20% over two months at constant temperature. Furthermore, in some cases, the viscosity of the composition does not change by more than about 15%, about 10% or about 8% over two months at constant temperature.

[0079] Additionally, in some cases, the viscosity of the composition does not change by more than about 20%, 15%, 10% or 8% over a temperature range from about 25°C to about 45°C, about 15°C to about 45°C, about 10°C to about 45°C, or about 5°C to about 45°C; and/or does not change by more than about 20%, 15%, 10% or 8% over two months at constant temperature.

[0080] In one embodiment, the present invention relates to a method of treating hair, wherein the method comprises a cycle of treatment, wherein the cycle of treatment comprises: a. optionally washing the hair with shampoo and/or rinsing the hair with water and optionally drying the hair at a temperature ranging from room temperature to about 200 °C (for example, with blow drying) and optional application of a softening action about the hair;

B. applying a hair care composition according to the present invention to the hair and holding the hair care composition to the hair for a period of time ranging from about one minute to about an hour, about 15 minutes to about 45 minutes or for about 30 minutes;

ç. after holding the hair care composition on the hair for a period of time, optional rinsing the hair from the hair care composition (preferably, the hair care composition is rinsed from the hair, but its hair rinse is not necessary);

d. drying the hair at a temperature that varies from room temperature to approximately 200 °C, using, for example, a blow dryer, through the optional application of a softening action to the hair;

and. passing a flat plate over the hair, such as passing the flat plate over the hair at least once (or at least 2 times, at least 4 times, at least 5 times or at least 10 times);

f. after passing the flat plate over the hair,

optional application of neutralizing composition to hair (eg,

neutralizing composition comprising hydrogen peroxide) and maintaining the neutralizing composition on the hair for a period of time ranging from about one minute to about one hour, about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes or about 10 minutes;

g. washing the hair with shampoo and/or conditioner and/or rinsing the hair with water; and h. drying the hair at a temperature that varies from room temperature to approximately 200 °C, using, for example, a blow dryer, with the optional application of a softening action to the hair.

[0081] In one embodiment, the flat sheet is employed at a temperature ranging from 100 °C to 250 °C, 110 °C to 230 °C, 110 °C to 210 °C, 120 °C to 200 °C, 150 °C to 190 °C or 190 °C to 230 °C and preferably 230 °C. In one embodiment, the flat plate from step (f) is passed over the hairs at least 3 times, at least 5 times, at least 10 times or more (e.g., up to 20, 30, 50 or 100 times).

[0082] In some embodiments, the at least one oxidizing agent in the neutralizing composition can be selected from hydrogen peroxide, persalts such as persulfates, percarbonates and perborates, urea peroxide, alkaline bromates and polythionates. In some embodiments, hydrogen peroxide is used.

[0083] In some embodiments, the at least one oxidizing agent of the neutralizing composition may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, such as 1 to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] In some embodiments, when the at least one oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide, the neutralizing composition described herein may comprise at least one agent that stabilizes hydrogen peroxide. As examples of agents that stabilize hydrogen peroxide, non-limiting mention may be made of alkali or alkaline earth metal pyrophosphates, alkali or alkaline earth metal stannates and phenacetin or oxyquinoline salts and acids such as oxyquinoline sulfate . In some embodiments, the at least one hydrogen peroxide stabilizing agent may be present in an amount ranging from 0.0001 to 5% by weight, such as 0.01 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0085] The method described above may further comprise a step of rinsing the hair with water after contacting the hair with the neutralizing composition.

[0086] The methods described in the present invention, including the methods described above, may include providing the hair with one or more hair care effects selected from: i. conditioning; ii. smoothing or relaxing effects; iii. malleability; iv. crimp control; v. volume down or volume control; saw. hairstyle or modeling effects; vii. ripple effects; viii. relaxation effects (resulting in wavy hair or less firm curls); ix. increase or retention of the definition of the undulation; x. moisture resistance; xi. cosmetic feel; xii. soft feel; xiii. natural feel; xiv. subject; xv. regularity; xvi. reduction of rough edges; and xvii. enhancement of hair appearance.

[0087] Methods to achieve one or more of the effects described above comprise applying a hair care composition according to the present invention to the hair and maintaining the composition on the hair by styling or straightening the hair thereafter.

In one embodiment, the hair care composition is applied to the hair more than once over a period of days, such as a 2 to 30 day period, a 2 to 15 day period, a 2 to 10 day period, etc.

[0088] In accordance with the present invention, the inventors have unexpectedly and surprisingly discovered that the hair care compositions according to the present invention effectively condition the hair and, at the same time, provide other hair care benefits to hair fibers such as low weight sensation to the hair, relaxing or straightening effects, relaxing effects (release of curls, but not complete straightening), volume reduction, frizz control, curl reduction, suppleness, discipline, cosmetics and soft feel.

[0089] Hair care compositions according to the present invention do not require film-forming polymers (but may optionally include film-forming polymers). In some embodiments, therefore, film-forming polymers may be excluded from hair care compositions. In other words, the hair care compositions according to the present invention can be free or essentially free of film-forming polymers.

[0090] It was also found, unexpectedly and surprisingly, that the application of hair care compositions to hair results in effectively conditioned hair and provides/improves the cosmetic properties of hair fibers, particularly human hair, for example, in terms of manageability, relaxing or smoothing effects, relaxing effects, curl reduction, volume reduction, frizz control,

discipline, cosmetics and smooth feel.

[0091] The hair treatment compositions according to the present invention can be used on any type of hair, such as light or dark hair, straight or wavy, natural hair or hair that has undergone cosmetic treatment such as permanent waving, dyeing, coloring, whitening and/or relaxation.

[0092] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is applied to wavy, brittle and/or damaged hair.

[0093] The present hair care compositions effectively condition the hair and provide manageability properties to the hair, including one or more of straightening effects; crimp control; volume down or volume control; feeling of low weight on the hair, styling or styling effects; ripple effects; relaxing effects or dimple reduction/loss; increase or retention of wave definition; moisture resistance; cosmetic feel; smooth feel; natural feel; reduction of rough edges; and/or improving the appearance of hair.

[0094] Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will emerge even more clearly upon reading this descriptive report in its entirety.

CATIONIC SURFACE ACTIVE:

[0095] Hair care compositions according to the present invention may include at least one cationic surfactant.

[0096] Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants useful in the present invention include, for example, optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

[0097] Quaternary ammonium salts useful in the present invention include, for example:

- quaternary ammonium salts having the formula (Ia): + R8 R10 N X (Ia) R9 R11 in which:

- the groups R8 to R11, which can be identical or different,

indicate a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, wherein at least one of the groups R8 to R11 contains 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms; and aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen,

sulfur or halogens;

aliphatic groups are selected, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), C1-C30 alkylamide, alkyl

(C12-C22) alkylamido (C2-C6), alkyl acetate (C12-C22) and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups;

X- is an anion selected from halides, phosphates, acetates,

lactates, alkyl sulfates (C1-C4), alkyl sulfonates (C1-C4) and alkylaryl sulfonates (C1-C4);

among the quaternary ammonium salts having the formula (Ia),

preference is given to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, where the alkyl group comprises about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, particularly beheyltrimethylammonium chlorides, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, or, secondly, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or acetate

(stearamidopropyldimethyl)myristyl ammonium chloride, which is sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the Van Dyk company;

- imidazoline quaternary ammonium salts having the formula (IIa):

(IIa) where:

- R12 indicates an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid derivatives of tallow;

- R13 indicates a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

- R14 indicates a C1-C4 alkyl group;

- R15 indicates a hydrogen atom or C1-C4 alkyl group;

- X- is an anion selected from halides, phosphates,

acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates (C1-C4), alkyl sulfonates (C1-C4) and alkylaryl sulfonates (C1-C4);

- R12 and R13 preferably indicate a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 indicates a methyl group and R15 indicates a hydrogen atom.

A product of this type is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;

- quaternary di or triammonium salts having the formula (IIIa):

(IIIa) where:

- R16 indicates an alkyl group containing about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 atoms of carbon or a group -(CH2)3-

N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a);

- R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, are selected from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and

- X- is an anion selected from halides, acetates,

phosphates, nitrates, alkyl sulfates (C1-C4), alkyl sulfonates (C1-C4) and alkylaryl sulfonates (C1-C4), particularly methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate;

these compounds are, for example, Finquat® CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternio 89), and Finquat® CT, sold by the company

Finetex (Quaternium 75); and

- quaternary ammonium salts that contain one or more ester functions that have the formula (IVa) below:

(IVa)

wherein: - R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or C1-C6 dihydroxyalkyl groups; - R23 is selected from the group R26-C(=O)-; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated groups R27 C1-C22, based on hydrocarbon; and a hydrogen atom; - R25 is selected from the group R28-C(=O)-; C1-C6 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated groups R29, based on hydrocarbon; and a hydrogen atom; - R24, R26 and R28, which can be identical or different, are selected from groups based on straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbons; - r, s and t, which can be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; - r1 and t1, which can be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1; - r2 + r1 = 2 r and t1 + t2 = 2 t; - y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10; - x and z, which can be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; and - X- is an organic or mineral anion, simple or complex; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15; when x is 0, R23 indicates R27; and when z is 0, R25 indicates R29.

[0098] Alkyl groups R22 can be linear or branched, more specifically linear. Preferably, R22 indicates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, more specifically a methyl or ethyl group.

[0099] Conveniently, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

[00100] When R23 is a hydrocarbon group R27, it may be long and contain 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or it may be short and contain 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[00101] When R25 is a hydrocarbon group R29, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[00102] Conveniently, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are selected from C11-C21 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups, more specifically from linear or branched C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups , saturated or unsaturated.

[00103] Preferably, x and z, which can be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Conveniently, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which can be identical or different, are equal to 2 to 3 and, more preferably, they are equal to 2.

[00104] The X- anion is preferably halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, alkyl sulfate (C1-C4), alkyl sulfonate (C1-C4) or alkylaryl sulfonate (C1-C4). It is possible, however, to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, anions derived from organic acid such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with ammonium which comprises an ester function.

[00105] The anion X- is, even more specifically, chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.

[00106] Use is made more specifically, in the composition according to the present invention, of ammonium salts having the formula (IVb), in which: - R22 indicates a methyl or ethyl group; - x and y are equal to 1; - z is equal to 0 or 1;

- r, s and t are equal to 2; - R23 is selected from the group R26-C(=O)-; methyl groups, ethyl groups or C14-C22 groups based on hydrocarbons; and a hydrogen atom; - R25 is selected from the group R28-C(=O)-; and a hydrogen atom; and - R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups. unsaturated.

[00107] Hydrocarbon-based groups are conveniently linear.

[00108] Among the compounds of formula (IVb), examples that may be mentioned include salts, particularly diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride or methyl sulfate, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. Acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more specifically obtained from vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups can be identical or different.

[00109] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, tri-isopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with mixtures of fatty acids of animal or vegetable origin, or by means of transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization by means of an alkylating agent, such as alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, chlorhydrin glycol or glycerol chlorhydrin. These compounds are, for example, sold under the names Dehyquart® by the Henkel company, Stepanquat® by the Stepan company, Noxamium® by the Ceca company or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the Rewo-Witco company.

[00110] The composition according to the present invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester or triester salts with a greater proportion by weight of diester salts.

Use can also be made of the ammonium salts which contain at least one ester function, described in US-A-4,874,554 and US-A-4,137,180. Use can also be made of behenoyl hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, sold by the Kao company under the name Quartamin BTC 131.

[00111] Preferably, the ammonium salts contain at least one ester function.

[00112] Preferably, the cationic surfactants are selected from cetrimonium chloride (cetyltrimethylammonium salt), beheotrimonium chloride (behenyltrimethylammonium salt), behelotrimonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

[00113] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the cationic surfactant in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight, preferably about 0.2% to about 13%, of greater preferably about 0.5% to about 12% by weight, and most preferably about 1% to about 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all of its bands and subbands. In specific embodiment, the amount of the at least one cationic surfactant is about 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7% , 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.5%, 2%, 2.5%, 3%, 3.5%, 4%, 4.5%, 5%, 5.5% , 6%, 6.5%, 7%, 7.5%, 8%,

8.5%, 9%, 9.5% or 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

NON-IONIC SURFACE ACTIVE:

[00114] In one embodiment, the hair care compositions according to the present invention include at least one nonionic surfactant, such as at least one nonionic surfactant selected from fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, (ether)phosphates of alkyl, alkylpolyglycosides, fatty acid alkanolamides and mixtures thereof.

FATTY ALCOHOLS:

[00115] Fatty alcohols correspond to linear and branched saturated/unsaturated fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 60 carbon atoms and preferably correspond to the formula R-OH where R is a radical based on linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon, comprising 6 to 60 carbon atoms, 10 to 50 carbon atoms, 12 to 24 carbon atoms or 10 to 22 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more OH groups.

[00116] Saturated fatty alcohols can be branched and can be presented in liquid form. They may optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.

[00117] Unsaturated fatty alcohols exhibit, in their structure, at least one double or triple bond and, preferably, one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably two or three of them, which can be conjugated or unconjugated. These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched. They may optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.

[00118] Liquid fatty alcohols can be selected, for example, from octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and their mixtures.

[00119] The fatty alcohols according to the present invention can be in solid form and can be non-oxyalkylenated and/or non-glycerolated. These fatty alcohols can be components of animal or vegetable waxes.

[00120] Solid fatty alcohol can indicate a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several fatty alcohol substances can coexist in the form of mixture, in a commercial product. An example of such a commercial product is cetearyl alcohol, a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, commercially available under the trade name LANETTE-O through the company BASF. Cetyl alcohol may also be commercially available under the trade name LANETTE 16 from the company BASF.

[00121] In one embodiment, solid fatty alcohols according to the present invention can be selected from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[00122] Other suitable examples of the solid fatty alcohol according to the present invention include branched solid fatty alcohols selected from 2-dodecyl-hexadecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-octadecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-eicosanol, 2-hexadecyl -1-octadecanol, 2-hexadecyl-1-eicosanol and mixtures thereof.

[00123] In one embodiment of the present invention, the fatty alcohol comprises cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.

[00124] In one embodiment of the present invention, fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

ALCOXYLATED FATTY ALCOHOLS:

[00125] "Alkoxylated fatty alcohol", as used herein, indicates a compound that contains at least one fatty part (8 carbon atoms or more) and at least one alkoxylated part (-(CH2)nO-, where n is an integer from 1 to 5, preferably 2 to 3). According to particularly preferred embodiments, the alkoxylated fatty alcohols according to the present invention can be used as nonionic surfactants, if desired. In this regard, the alkoxylated fatty alcohols according to the present invention preferably have an HLB value (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) of 1-20, including all its ranges and sub-ranges, where the HLB values range from 1 to 5 (particularly 3 to 5) or from 15-20 (particularly 16 to 18), which are most preferred. Preferably, the alkoxylated fatty alcohol is selected from ethoxylated fatty alcohols, propoxylated fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

[00126] Preferably, the alkoxylated fatty alcohol can be selected from ethoxylated polymers substituted by dialkyl, trialkyl and combinations of dialkyl and trialkyl. They can also be selected from ethoxylated alkyl polymers substituted by monoalkyl, dialkyl, trialkyl or tetra-alkyl and all combinations thereof.

The alkyl group can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched and contain a series of carbon atoms, preferably about 12 carbon atoms to about 50 carbon atoms, including all of its ranges and subranges, such as 20 to 40 atoms. of carbon, 22 to 24 carbon atoms, 30 to 50 carbon atoms and 40 to 60 carbon atoms. More preferably, the grease contains a mixture of compounds of variable carbon atoms, such as C20-C40 compounds, C22-C24 compounds, C30-C50 compounds and C40-C60 compounds.

Preferably, the alkoxylated part of the alkoxylated fatty alcohols according to the present invention contains 2 or more alkoxylation units, preferably 10 to 200 alkoxylation units, preferably 20 to 150 alkoxylation units and preferably 25 to 100 alkoxylation units alkoxylation, including all of its ranges and sub-ranges.

Also preferably, the alkoxylation units contain 2 carbon atoms (ethoxylation units) and/or 3 carbon atoms (propoxylation units).

[00128] The amount of alkoxylation can also be determined by the percentage by weight of the alkoxylated part with respect to the total weight of the compound. Appropriate weight percentages of the alkoxylated part relative to the total weight of the compound include, but are not limited to, 10% to 95%, preferably 20% to 90%, including all ranges and sub-ranges thereof, where 75% to 90% are preferred. (particularly 80% to 90%) or 20% to 50%.

[00129] Preferably, the alkoxylated fatty alcohols according to the present invention have number average molecular weight (Mn) of more than 500, preferably 500 to 5000, including all its ranges and sub-ranges, such as Mn from 500 to 1250 or Mn from 2000 to 5000.

[00130] Suitable examples of alkoxylated fatty alcohols include: laureth-3, laureth-7, laureth-9, laureth-12, laureth-23, ceteth-10, ceteth-33, steareth-10, steareth-2, steareth-20 , steareth-100, beeneth-5, beeneth-5, beeneth-10, oleth-10, pareth alcohols, trideceth-10, trideceth-12, pareth-3 C12-13, pareth-23 C12-13, pareth-7 C11 -15, ceteth-20 PPG-5, propylene glycol oleate PEG-55, glycereth-26 (glyceryl ether PEG-26), methyl glucose dioleate PEG 120, methyl glucose trioleate PEG 120, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate PEG 150 and its mixtures.

(ETHER) ALKYL PHOSPHATES:

Suitable alkyl (Ether)phosphates include, but are not limited to, alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters and alkyl phosphate esters corresponding to a monoester of formula (I) and salts thereof: RO[CH2O]u[(CH2) xCH(R')(CH2)y(CH2)zO]v[CH2CH2O]w-PO-(OH)2

[00132] Formula (I): diester corresponding to formula (II) and its salts: {RO[CH2O]u[(CH2)xCH(R')(CH2)y(CH2)zO]v[CH2CH2O]w}2PO -(OH)

[00133] Formula (II): triester corresponding to formula (III): {RO[CH2O]u[(CH2)xCH(R')(CH2)y(CH2)zO]v[CH2CH2O]w}3PO Formula (III ); and combinations thereof, in which: - R is a hydrocarbon radical containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms; - u, v and w, independently of each other, indicate numbers from 0 to 60; - x, y and z, independently of each other, indicate numbers from 0 to 13; and - R’ indicates hydrogen and alkyl, where the sum of x+y+z ≥ 0.

Each of the numbers u, v and w indicates the degree of alkoxylation. Although, at the molecular level, the numbers u, v, and w and the total degree of alkoxylation can only be whole numbers, including zero, they are, at the macroscopic level, average values in the form of fractional numbers; - in formulas (I), (II) and (III), R is a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted or unsubstituted, preferably linear or branched, C 6-40 alkyl or alkenyl group , or a C1-40 alkyl phenyl group, more specifically a C8-22 alkyl or alkenyl group or a C4-18 alkyl phenyl group, more preferably a C12-18 alkyl or alkenyl group or a C6-16 alkyl phenyl group; u, v and w, independently of one another, are preferably a number from 2 to 20, more preferably a number from 3 to 17, and more preferably a number from 5 to 15; and

- x, y and z, independently of each other, are preferably a number from 2 to 13, more preferably a number from 1 to 10 and more preferably a number from 0 to 8.

In general, the smaller the number of carbon atoms in the R group of phosphate esters, the more irritating to the skin and the less water soluble the phosphate ester becomes. On the other hand, the higher the number of carbon atoms in the R group, the softer on the skin and the thicker and waxier the resulting product. Consequently, for best results, R should contain 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

Particularly preferred alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters for use in the present invention are ceteth-10 phosphate PPG-5 (CRODAFOS SG®), oleth-3 phosphate (CRODAFOS N3 acid), oleth-10 phosphate (CRODAFOS N10 acid) and a mixture of ceteth-10 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate (CRODAFOS CES), all sold by Croda. Particularly preferred alkyl phosphate esters are cetyl phosphate (Hostaphat CC 100) and stearyl phosphate (Hostaphat CS 120) from Clariant.

[00136] In one embodiment, the alkyl (ether)phosphates are selected from ceteth-10 phosphate PPG-5, oleth-3 phosphate, oleth-10 phosphate, ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of phosphate of ceteth-10 and dicetyl phosphate, dicetyl phosphate, cetyl phosphate, stearyl phosphate and mixtures thereof.

ALKYLPOLYGLYCOSIDES:

[00137] The alkyl(poly)glycoside (alkylpolyglycoside) is especially represented by the following general formula: R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v in which: - R1 indicates a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical, wherein the linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms, especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms; - R2 indicates an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms; - G indicates a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms; - t indicates a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 4; and - v indicates a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably 1 to

4.

[00138] Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above, in which: - R1 indicates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical, comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms; - R2 indicates an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms; - t indicates a value ranging from 0 to 3 and is preferably equal to 0; - G indicates glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose; and - the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15, preferably 1 to 4; where the average degree of polymerization is more specifically 1 to 2.

[00139] The glycoside linkages between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type.

Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant. 1,4-C8-C16 alkyl (poly)glycosides, especially decyl glycosides and caprylyl/capryl glycosides, are preferably more specific.

[00140] Among the commercial products, mention can be made of the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the SEPPIC company under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX NS 10; products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AG10 LK.

[00141] Preferably, use is made of 1,4-C8-C16 alkyl (poly)glycosides, especially in the form of a 53% aqueous solution, such as those sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.

[00142] In one embodiment, the alkylpolyglycoside is selected from decyl glycoside, stearyl glycoside, lauryl glycoside, cocoglycoside, cetearyl glycoside, decyl lauryl glycoside and mixtures thereof.

FATTY ACID ALKANOLAMIDES:

Suitable fatty acid alkanolamides include those formed through the reaction of alkanolamine and C6-C36 fatty acid.

These surfactants can be selected from monoalkanolamides and dialkanolamides of C6-C36 fatty acids, preferably from monoalkanolamides and dialkanolamides of C8-C30 fatty acids or from C8-C24 fatty acids, and may contain a C2-C3 hydroxyalkyl group. Examples thereof include, but are not limited to, oleic acid diethanolamide, oleic acid monoisopropanolamide, myristic acid monoethanolamide, soy fatty acid diethanolamide, stearic acid ethanolamide, linoleic acid diethanolamide, behenic acid monoethanolamide, isostearic acid monoisopropanolamide, erucic acid diethanolamide, ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide, coconut isopropanolamide (INCI name:

cocamide MIPA), coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide (INCI name: cocamide MEA), coconut fatty acid diethanolamide, palm seed fatty acid diethanolamide, lauric monoethanolamide, lauric diethanolamide, lauric isopropanolamide, coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide polyoxyethylene and mixtures thereof.

[00144] In one embodiment, the fatty acid alkanolamide is selected from cocamide MIPA, cocamide MEA (coco monoethanolamide) and their mixtures.

[00145] In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyl decanol, palmityl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleic alcohol (or oleyl), linoleic alcohol (or linoleyl ether), linolenic alcohol (or linolenyl), undecylenic alcohol and mixtures thereof, most preferably from cetyl alcohol, alcohol stearyl and cetearyl alcohol, PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate, dicetyl phosphate, phosphate of cetyl, stearyl phosphate, laureth-7, laureth-9, trideceth-10, trideceth-12, pareth-3 C12-13, pareth-23 C12-13, pareth-7 C11-15, PPG-5 ceteth-20 , PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate, glycereth-26, decyl glycoside, cetearyl glycoside, dec il lauryl glycoside, stearyl glycoside, cocoglycoside, cocamide MIPA and mixtures thereof.

[00146] The at least one non-ionic surfactant is present in the hair care compositions according to the present invention in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 0.5% to about 12% by weight, or more preferably about 1% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all its tracks and subtracks.

[00147] In specific realization, the total amount of nonionic surfactants is about 1%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2 .1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3.0%, 3 .5%, 4%, 4.5%, 5%, 5.5%, 6%, 6.5%, 7%, 7.5%, 8%, 8.5%, 9%, 9.5 % or 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

THICKENING AGENT:

[00148] In some embodiments of the present invention, hair care compositions include at least one thickening agent (also called thickeners or viscosity modifying agents).

Non-limiting examples of thickening agents include xanthan gum, guar gum, biosaccharide gum, cellulose, acacia gum, Seneca gum, sclerotic gum, agarose, pectin, gellan gum and hyaluronic acid. In addition, one or more thickeners may include polymeric thickeners selected from polyacryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate, acryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamide, carbomer, and acrylates/C10-alkyl acrylate cross polymer 30. In some cases, the thickening agent includes polyacryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate and/or sodium polyacrylate.

[00149] Many thickening agents are water soluble and increase the viscosity of water or form aqueous gel when the hair care composition according to the present invention is dispersed/dissolved in water. The aqueous solution can be heated and cooled, or neutralized, to form the gel, if necessary. The thickener can be dispersed/dissolved in an aqueous solvent that is soluble in water, such as ethyl alcohol, when dispersed/dissolved in water. Non-limiting examples of various types of thickeners include. A. CARBOXYLIC ACID POLYMERS:

[00150] These polymers are crosslinked compounds that contain one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, salts and esters of these acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids, in which the crosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds and it is derived from a polyhydric alcohol.

[00151] Examples of commercially available carboxylic acid polymers useful herein include carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerythritol. Carbomers are available in the Carbopol 900 series form through BF Goodrich (eg Carbopol® 954). In addition, other suitable polymeric carboxylic acid agents include Ultrez® 10 (B.F.

Goodrich) and copolymers of C10-30 alkyl acrylates with one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or one of its short chain esters (ie, C1-4 alcohol), wherein the crosslinking agent is sucrose allyl ether or pentaerythritol. These copolymers are known as acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate cropolymers and are commercially available as Carbopol 1342, Carbopol® 1382, Pemulen TR-1 and Pemulen TR-2 from B.F. Goodrich. In other words, examples of carboxylic acid polymer thickeners useful herein are those selected from carbomers, acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers and mixtures thereof.

B. RETICULATED POLYACRYLATE POLYMERS:

[00152] Hair care compositions according to the present invention may optionally contain cross-linked polyacrylate polymers useful as thickeners or gelling agents which include cationic and non-ionic polymers. Examples of useful cross-linked nonionic polyacrylate polymers and cross-linked cationic polyacrylate polymers are those described in U.S. Patent No. 5,100,660, U.S. Patent No. 4,849,484, U.S. Patent No. 4,835,206, US Patent

U.S. Patent No. 4,628,078, U.S. Patent No. 4,599,379 and EP

228,868, all of which are fully incorporated herein by reference.

C. POLYACRYLAMIDE POLYMERS:

[00153] Hair care compositions according to the present invention may optionally contain polyacrylamide polymers, especially non-ionic polyacrylamide polymers which include branched or unbranched substituted polymers. Among these polyacrylamide polymers are the nonionic polymer given the CTFA designation polyacrylamide and isoparaffin and laureth-7, available under the trade name Sepigel 305 from Seppic Corporation.

[00154] Other polyacrylamide polymers useful herein include multiblock copolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids. Commercially available examples of such multiblock copolymers include Hypan SR150H, SS500V, SS500W and SSSA100H from Lipo Chemicals, Inc.

[00155] Hair care compositions may also contain thickening and texturizing gels of the type exemplified by the series of products called Lubrajel® by United Guardian. These gels have wetting, viscosifying and stabilizing properties.

D. POLYSACCHARIDES:

[00156] Wide variety of polysaccharides may be useful at present. "Polysaccharides" designates gelling agents that contain backbones of repeating sugar units (ie carbohydrate). Non-limiting examples of polysaccharide gelling agents include those selected from cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, cellulose acetate carboxylate propionate, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, methyl hydroxyethyl cellulose,

microcrystalline cellulose, sodium sulphate cellulose and mixtures thereof. Alkyl substituted celluloses are also useful in the present. Preferred among the alkyl hydroxyalkyl cellulose ethers is the material given the CTFA designation cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, which is the ether of cetyl alcohol and hydroxyethylcellulose. This material is sold under the tradename Natrosol® CS Plus from Aqualon Corporation.

[00157] Other useful polysaccharides include scleroglucans which comprise a linear chain of (1-3) glucose units linked with glucose linked (1-6) to every three units, a commercially available example of which is Clearogel® CS11 from Michel Mercier Products Inc. In some cases, a mixture of sclerotic gum and xanthan gum is particularly useful.

E. GUMS:

[00158] Other gelling and thickening agents useful herein include materials that are primarily derived from natural sources. Non-limiting examples of such gum gelling agents include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride , hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, seaweed, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotic gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan sodium, gum tragacanth, xanthan gum, biosaccharide gum and mixtures thereof. In some cases, a mixture of sclerotic gum and xanthan gum is particularly useful.

[00159] Additional examples of water-soluble thickeners include water-soluble natural polymers, water-soluble synthetic polymers, clay minerals and silicic anhydride. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble natural polymers include gum arabic, gum tragacanth, karaya gum, guar gum, gellan gum, tara gum, locust bean gum, tamarind gum, sodium alginate, propylene glycol alginic acid ester, carrageenan, farceluran, agar , high methoxy pectin, low methoxy pectin, xanthine, chitosan, starch (eg starch derived from corn, potato, wheat, rice, sweet potato and tapioca, starch and soluble starch), fermentation polysaccharide ( eg xanthan gum, pullulan, carciran and dextran), acid heteropolysaccharide derived from plant callus belonging to Polyantes sp. (eg tuberous polysaccharide), proteins (eg sodium casein, gelatin and albumin), chondroitin sulfate and hyaluronic acid.

[00160] Non-limiting examples of water-soluble synthetic polymers include polyvinyl alcohol, sodium polyacrylate, sodium polymethacrylate, polyacrylic acid glycerin ester, carboxyvinyl polymer, polyacrylamide, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyvinyl methyl ether, polyvinyl sulfone, maleic acid copolymer, polyethylene oxide, polydialyl amine, polyethylene imine, water-soluble cellulose derivatives (for example, carboxymethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose and cellulose sulfate sodium salt) and starch derivatives (for example , starch oxide, dialdehyde starch, dextrin, British gum, acetyl starch, starch phosphate, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch and hydroxypropyl starch).

The at least one thickening agent may be present in the hair care compositions according to the present invention in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.05% to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 0.1% to about 8% by weight, or more preferably about 0.1% to about 6% by weight, most preferably about

0.2% to about 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, including all its bands and subbands.

[00162] In specific embodiment, the total amount of thickening agent is about 0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5 %, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.5%, 2%, 2.5%, 3%, 3.5%, 4%, 4 .1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9% or 5% by weight, with in relation to the total weight of the composition.

SILICONE COMPOUND:

The hair care composition according to the present invention may also include one or more silicone compounds (also called "silicones"), such as dimethicone, amino silicones, dimethicone copolyols etc.

[00164] The term "amino silicone" is intended to indicate any silicone compound that comprises at least a primary, secondary or tertiary amine group, or a quaternary ammonium group.

[00165] As an amino silicone that can be used in the scope of the present invention, the following can be mentioned: a. polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A): CH3 OH HO Si O Si O H CH3 (CH2)3 x' (A)

NH(CH2)2 NH2 y' where x' and y' are integers, such that the weight average molecular weight (Mw) is from about 5000 to 500,000; B. amino silicones corresponding to formula (B):

R’aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR’2-b)m-O-SiG3-a-R’a (B)

on what:

- G, which can be identical or different, indicate a hydrogen atom or phenyl, OH or C 1 -C 8 alkyl group, such as methyl or C 1 -C 8 alkoxy, such as methoxy;

- a, which can be identical or different, indicate the number

0 or an integer from 1 to 3, particularly 0;

- b indicates 0 or 1, particularly 1;

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to

2000, particularly 50 to 150, where it is possible for n to indicate a number from 0 to 1999, particularly 49 to 149 and m to indicate a number from 1 to 2000,

particularly 1 to 10;

- R', which may be identical or different, denote a monovalent radical having the formula -CqH2qL, where q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from the following groups:

-NR"-Q-N(R")2;

-N(R")2;

-N+(R")3 A-;

-N+H(R")2 A-;

-N+H2(R") A-;

-N(R")-Q-N+R"H2 A-;

-NR"-Q-N+(R")2H A-;

-NR"-Q-N+ (R")3 A-; and wherein R", which may be identical or different, denote hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl or a radical based on saturated monovalent hydrocarbon, such as a C1-C20 alkyl radical; Q indicates a group

linear or branched CrH2r, where r is an integer ranging from 2 to 6,

preferably 2 to 4; and A- indicates a cosmetically acceptable ion, particularly halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

[00166] A group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition (B) is represented by the silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" which has the formula (C): CH3 CH3 (CH3)3Si O Si O Si OSi(CH3)3 CH3 (CH2) 3 n NH(C)(CH2)2 NH2 m where neither have the meanings given above in formula B.

[00167] Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by silicones having the formulas (D) or (E) below: CH3 CH3 R2 CH3 R1 Si O Si O Si O Si R3 (D) (CH2)3 CH3 CH3 CH3 n NH (CH2)2 NH2 m where: - men are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can vary from 1 to 1000, particularly 50 to 250, more specifically 100 to 200, where it is possible that n indicate a number from 0 to 999, particularly 49 to 249, more specifically 125 to 175 and n indicate a number from 1 to 1000, particularly 1 to 10 and more specifically 1 to 5; and - R 1 , R 2 and R 3 , which may be identical or different, indicate a C 1 -C 4 hydroxy or alkoxy radical, wherein at least one of the R 1 to R 3 radicals indicates an alkoxy radical, preferably methoxy radical.

[00168] The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1, preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more specifically is equal to 0.3:1 .

[00169] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000, more specifically from 3500 to

200,000; CH3 CH3 CH3 CH3 R1 Si O Si O Si O Si O Si R2 (CH2)3 (E) CH3 CH3 CH3 p NH (CH2)2 NH2 q where: - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) varies from 1 to 1000, particularly 50 to 350, more specifically 150 to 250, where it is possible that p indicates a number from 0 to 999, particularly 49 to 349, more specifically 159 to 239 and q indicates a number from 1 to 1000, particularly 1 to 10 and more specifically 1 to 5; and - R 1 and R 2 , which are different, denote a C 1 -C 4 hydroxy or alkoxy radical, wherein at least one of the R 1 or R 2 radicals indicates an alkoxy radical, preferably methoxy radical.

[00170] The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.0 to 1:1.1, preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more specifically is equal to 1:0.95.

[00171] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200,000, more specifically from 5000 to

100,000 and, more specifically, from 10,000 to 50,000.

[00172] Commercial products corresponding to silicones that have structure (D) or (E) may include, in their composition, one or more different amino silicones whose structure is different from formulas (D) or (E).

[00173] A product containing amino silicones that have structure (D) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM

652.

[00174] A product containing amino silicones that have structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®.

[00175] When such amino silicones are used, a particularly convenient embodiment is their use in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion can comprise one or more surfactants. Surfactants can be of any nature, but are preferably cationic and/or non-ionic.

The average numerical size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferentially and particularly as amino silicones having the formula (E), microemulsions are used whose average particle size varies from 5 nm to 60 nanometers (limits included) and, more preferably, 10 nm to 50 nanometers (limits included).

Consequently, according to the present invention, the amino silicone microemulsions having the formula (E) sold as Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by Wacker can be used.

[00176] Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is indicated by the formula (F) below: CH3 CH3 CH3 CH3 HO Si O Si O Si O Si OH

A CH3 CH3 CH3 n NH (CH2)2 (F) NH2 m where: - men are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, particularly 50 to 150, where it is possible that n indicates one number from 0 to 1999, particularly 49 to 149 and indicate a number from 1 to 2000, particularly 1 to 10; and - A indicates a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

[00177] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000 and, even more specifically, from 3500 to 200,000.

A preferred silicone of formula (F) is amodimethicone (INCI name) sold under the trade name XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow Corning.

[00179] Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by formula (G) below:

CH3 CH3 CH3 CH3 H3C Si O Si O Si O Si CH3

A CH3 CH3 CH3 (G) n NH (CH2)2 NH2 m where: - men are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, particularly 50 to 150, where it is possible that n indicates one number from 0 to 1999, particularly 49 to 149 and indicate a number from 1 to 2000, particularly 1 to 10; and - A indicates a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 4 carbon atoms.

This radical is preferably branched.

[00180] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and, even more specifically, from 1000 to 200,000.

[00181] A silicone having this formula is, for example, Amino Fluid DC2-8566 from Dow Corning.

ç. Amino silicones corresponding to the formula (H): R6 CH2 CHOH CH2 N (R5)3 Q - + R5 (R5)3 Si O Si O Si O Si (R5)3 (H) R5 R5 rs where: - R5 indicates a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, particularly a C1-C18 alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, such as methyl; - R6 denotes a bivalent hydrocarbon-based radical, particularly a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a bivalent C1-C18 alkyleneoxy radical, such as C1-C8, attached to Si via a SiC bond; - Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, particularly chloride, or one of its salts of organic acids (eg, acetate); - r indicates a mean statistical value from 2 to 20, particularly from 2 to 8; and - s indicates a mean statistical value from 20 to 200, particularly from 20 to 50.

[00182] These amino silicones are more specifically described in US patent 4,185,087.

d. Quaternary ammonium silicones having the formula (I): R7 OH R7 R7 2X- R7 + + R8 N CH2CHCH2 R6 Si O Si R6 CH2 CH2 CH2 N R8 (I) R7 R7 R7 R7 r where: - R7, which can be identical or different, indicate a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, particularly a C1-C18 alkyl radical, C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, such as methyl; - R6 denotes a bivalent hydrocarbon-based radical, particularly a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a bivalent C1-C18 alkyleneoxy radical, such as C1-C8, attached to Si via a SiC bond; - R8, which can be identical or different, indicate a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, particularly a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a -R6- radical NHCOR7; - X- is an anion such as a halide ion, particularly chloride, or one of its salts of organic acids (eg, acetate); and - r indicates a mean statistical value from 2 to 200, particularly from 5 to 100.

[00183] Such silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A 0.530.974.

and. Amino silicones having the formula (J): R1 R3 H2N (CmH2m) NH (CnH2n) Si O Si O Si R5 (J) R2 x R4 3 where: - R1, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, indicate a C1-C4 alkyl radical or phenyl group; - R5 indicates a C1-C4 alkyl radical or hydroxyl group; - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5; and - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5; wherein x is selected such that the amine number is from 0.01 to 1 meq/g; and f. multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones of the (AB)n type, wherein A is a polysiloxane block and B is a polyoxyalkylenated block containing at least one amine group.

[00184] The mentioned silicones are preferably composed of repeating units having the following general formulas: [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2 -R -N(R")-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b -R '-N(H)-R-] or, alternatively,

[-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2 - R -N(R") - R' - O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b -] where: - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, which preferably ranges from 5 to 200, more specifically from 10 to 100; - b is an integer comprised from 0 to 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100, more specifically from 5 to 30; - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000, more specifically from 10 to 5000; - R" is a hydrogen or methyl atom; - R, which may be identical or different, denote a straight or branched bivalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally which includes one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R indicates an ethylene radical, linear or branched propylene radical, linear or branched butylene radical or -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R indicates a radical -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2-; and - R', which may be identical or different, denote a bivalent straight or branched C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally which includes one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, linear or branched propylene radical, linear or branched butylene radical or -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably, R' indicates -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[00185] Siloxane blocks preferably indicate 50 to 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more specifically 70 to 85 mol%.

[00186] The amine content is preferably from 0.02 to 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more specifically 0.05 to 0.2.

[00187] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of silicone preferably ranges from 5000 to 1,000,000, more specifically 10,000 to

200,000.

[00188] Special mention can be made of silicones sold under the names Silsoft® A-843 or Silsoft® A+ by Momentive.

g. The alkylamino silicones corresponding to the formula (K) below: CH3 CH3 CH3 CH3 R1 Si O Si O Si O Si O Si R2 (K) CH3 A CH3 CH3 x NH (CH2)2 NH2 y where: - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000, especially from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100; - R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and especially 12 to 20 atoms of carbon; and - A indicates a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[00189] Preferably, A comprises 3 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched. Special mention can be made of the following bivalent radicals: -CH2CH2CH 2 and -CH2CH(CH 3)CH2-.

[00190] Preferably, R 1 and R 2, which may be identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; specific mention may be made of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nodecyl and eicosyl radicals; preferably, R 1 and R 2 , which can be identical or different, are selected from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) radicals.

[00191] Preferably, the silicone has the formula (K), in which: - x ranges from 10 to 2000, especially 100 to 1000; - y ranges from 1 to 100; - A comprises 3 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; more specifically, A is selected from the following bivalent radicals: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH 3)CH2-; and - R 1 and R 2 , which may be identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; specific mention may be made of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nodecyl and eicosyl radicals; preferably, R 1 and R 2 , which may be identical or different, are selected from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) radicals.

[00192] Preferred silicone of formula (K) is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone (INCI name). Special mention can be made of the silicone sold under the name Silsoft® AX by Momentive.

H. AMINOPROPIL DIMETICONE (INCI: AMINO SILICONE) CORRESPONDING TO THE FORMULA (L) BELOW: (L)

[00193] In one embodiment, the amino silicones according to the present invention are selected from amodimethicone, trideceth-9 PG amodimethicone, PEG-40/PPG-8 methylaminopropyl/hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer and mixtures thereof.

[00194] Preferably, the amino silicones according to the present invention are selected from the amino silicones of formula (F). A preferred silicone of formula (F) is amodimethicone (INCI name) sold under the trade name XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow Corning.

[00195] Another preferred amino silicone is aminopropyl dimethicone (formula (L)) with the INCI name of amodimethicone sold under the trade name KF 8020 by Shin Etsu.

Silicones other than the above amino silicones can be selected from dimethicone and copolyol dimethicone compounds, such as oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl(methyl)siloxane, oxypropylenated and/or polymethyl (C8-C22) alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane and/or oxyethylenated and mixtures thereof, wherein the copolyol dimethicone compounds are preferably selected from PEG-8 Dimethicone Benzoate, PEG-7 Dimethicone Phosphate, PEG-8 Dimethicone Phosphate, PEG-10 Dimethicone Phosphate, PEG-7 Dimethicone , Dimethicone PEG-8, Dimethicone PEG-

9, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG-17 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone and mixtures thereof.

[00197] The at least one silicone compound in the hair care composition according to the present invention may be present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about from 10% by weight, more preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, including all of its bands and subbands.

[00198] In specific embodiment, the total amount of the silicone compound(s) is about 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0 .6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.5%, 2%, 2.5%, 3%, 3.5%, 4%, 4.1% , 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9% or 5% by weight, with respect to weight total composition.

ALKALINE AGENT:

[00199] Hair care compositions according to the present invention may include at least one alkaline agent, such as at least one alkaline agent selected from organic amines, ammonium salts, hydroxide and inorganic bases such as metal hydroxides alkali metals, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, alkali metal citrates and mixtures thereof.

[00200] Organic amines can be selected from organic amines which comprise one or more primary, secondary or tertiary amine functions and at least one linear or branched C 1 -C 8 alkyl group which contains at least one hydroxyl radical.

[00201] Organic amines can also be selected cyclic amines and other cyclic compounds, saturated or unsaturated,

that contain one or more nitrogen atoms within the ring and mixtures thereof.

[00202] Organic amines can be selected from those which have pKb at 25 °C of less than 12, such as less than 10 or less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the basicity function taller.

[00203] Organic amines can also be selected from alkanolamines such as mono, di or trialkanolamines, which comprise one to three identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, ethylamines, ethyleneamines, quinoline, aniline and cyclic amines such as pyrroline, pyrrole, pyrrolidine, imidazolidine, imidazolidine, imidazolidinine, morpholine, pyridine, piperidine, pyrimidine, piperazine, triazine and derivatives thereof.

[00204] Among the alkanolamine-type compounds that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to: monoethanolamine (also known as monoethanolamine or MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, diisopropanolamine, triisopropanolamine, N -dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, tri-isopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2 -propanediol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol (aminomethylpropanol or AMP), tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, tromethamine and mixtures thereof, preferably triethanolamine and/or aminomethylpropanol.

[00205] Other examples include, but are not limited to: 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.

[00206] In some embodiments, organic amines are selected from amino acids.

[00207] As non-limiting examples, the amino acids that can be used can be of natural or synthetic origin, in L, D or racemic form, and comprise at least one selected acidic function,

for example, from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid, and phosphoric acid functions. Amino acids can be found in either their neutral or ionic form.

[00208] Furthermore, as non-limiting examples, amino acids can be selected from basic amino acids that comprise an additional amine function, optionally included in ring or ureido function.

Amino acids that can be used in the present invention include, but are not limited to: aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine , N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, ornithine, citrulline and valine.

[00210] In some embodiments, organic amines are selected from organic amines of the heterocyclic type. In addition to histidine, which has already been mentioned in the amino acids, non-limiting mention can also be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, 1,2,4-triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole.

[00211] In some embodiments, organic amines are selected from amino acid dipeptides. Amino acid dipeptides that can be used in the present invention include, but are not limited to: carnosine, anserine and balein.

[00212] In some embodiments, organic amines are selected from compounds that comprise guanidine function.

Organic amines of this type that can be used in the present invention include, in addition to arginine, which has already been mentioned as amino acid, creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, N-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid, and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid.

The organic amine can be in the form of a salt. The term "organic amine salt" as used herein denotes organic salts or minerals of organic amine as described above.

[00214] As a non-limiting example, organic salts can be selected from salts of organic acids, such as citrates, lactates, glycolates, gluconates, acetates, propionates, fumarates, oxalates and tartrates.

[00215] In one embodiment, the organic salt is trisodium citrate.

[00216] Furthermore, as a non-limiting example, mineral salts can be selected from hydrohalides (eg hydrochlorides), carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, sulfates, hydrogen phosphates and phosphates.

[00217] The ammonium salts that can be used according to the present invention can be selected from the following acid salts: carbonate and bicarbonate. Salt, for example, is carbonate, such as ammonium carbonate.

[00218] The alkali metal phosphates and carbonates that can be used are, for example, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate and their derivatives.

[00219] Alkali agents can also be selected from inorganic bases and hydroxide bases such as alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, transition metal hydroxides, quaternary ammonium hydroxides, organic hydroxides and mixtures thereof. Suitable examples are ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, rubidium hydroxide, cesium hydroxide, francium hydroxide, beryllium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide,

calcium hydroxide, strontium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, molybdenum hydroxide, manganese hydroxide, zinc hydroxide, cobalt hydroxide, cadmium hydroxide, cerium hydroxide, lanthanum hydroxide, actinium hydroxide, thorium hydroxide, aluminum, guanidinium hydroxide and mixtures thereof.

[00220] According to at least one embodiment, the at least one alkaline agent is selected from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, aminomethyl propanediol, tri-isopropanol amine, dimethylstearylamine, dimethyl/tallowamine, lysine , ornithine, arginine, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, calcium hydroxide, calcium bicarbonate and mixtures thereof.

[00221] According to another preferred embodiment, the at least one alkaline agent is selected from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, trisodium citrate and mixtures thereof.

[00222] According to an especially preferred embodiment, the at least one alkaline agent is selected from alkanolamine. Non-limiting examples of particularly useful alkanolamines include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine and one of their mixtures, preferably triethanolamine and/or aminomethylpropanol.

[00223] The at least one alkaline agent may be present in the hair care compositions in an amount of 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 8 % by weight, and preferably even more, 0.5% to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, including all its bands and subbands.

[00224] When the at least one alkaline agent is selected from aminomethyl propanol, it may be present in an amount of 0.1% to 6.3% by weight, preferably 0.2% to 5.5% by weight, more preferably 0.3% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably 0.3% to 4.6% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, including all its bands and subbands.

[00225] When the at least one alkaline agent is sodium hydroxide, it may be present in an amount of 0.1% to 4.1% by weight, preferably 0.15% to 3.5% by weight, most preferably 0.2% to 3% by weight and, more preferably, 0.5% to 3% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, including all its bands and subbands.

[00226] When the at least one alkaline agent is alkanolamine, it may be present in an amount of 0.1% to 10 by weight, preferably 0.5 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 6% in weight, and preferably still more, 1% to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, including all its bands and sub-bands.

PH:

[00227] The pH of the hair treatment compositions according to the present invention can range from about 2 to less than 7, about pH 2 to about 6.5, about pH 2.1 to about 6, about of pH 2.2 to about 5.2, such as about pH 2.2 to about 5, preferably about pH 2.2 to about 4.8, more preferably about pH 2.2 to about from 4.5, or even more preferably from about pH 2.2 to about 4, including all ranges and sub-ranges thereof.

[00228] In some embodiments, the pH of hair treatment compositions according to the present invention can be about 2, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6 , 2.75, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9 , 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9 or 5.

[00229] The desired pH can be obtained using one or more of the alkaline agents described above.

WATER:

[00230] Compositions according to the present invention include water. The water used can be sterile demineralized water and/or floral water such as rose water, corn flour water, chamomile water or lime water and/or natural mineral or thermal water such as: Vittel water, water from Vichy basin, water from Uriage, water from La Roche Posay, water from La Bourboule, water from Enghien-les-Bains, water from Saint Gervais-les-Bains, water from Neris-les-Bains, water from Allevar-les- Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizieres, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le-Saunier, water from Eaux Bonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Les Fumades, water from Tercis-les -Bains or Avene water. Water may also comprise reconstituted thermal water, i.e. water comprising trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium etc., which reconstitute the characteristics of thermal water.

[00231] The composition according to the present invention comprises water in an amount ranging from about 50% to about 99% by weight, preferably about 65% to about 95% by weight, more preferably about 70% to about 92% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

HYDROSOLUBLE SOLVENT:

According to at least one embodiment, the hair care compositions according to the present invention include at least one water-soluble solvent. The term “water-soluble solvent” is interchangeable with the term “water miscible solvent” and indicates a compound which, at 25 °C under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), has a solubility of at least 50% in water. In some cases, the water-soluble solvent has solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80% or 90% in water at 25 °C and under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, glycerin, alcohols (for example, C1-8 or C1-4 alcohols), organic solvents, polyols, glycols and one of their mixtures.

[00233] As examples of organic solvents, non-limiting mention can be made of monoalcohols and polyols, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, glycols or glycol ethers, such as monomethyl, monoethyl and ethylene glycol monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and diethylene glycol alkyl ethers such as diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether.

Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol and glycerin. Organic solvents can be volatile or non-volatile compounds.

[00234] Additional non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include alkanols (polyhydric alcohols such as glycols and polyols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl -1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, mono-n-propyl ether of diethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, diethylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-1 -methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, monoethyl ether of dipropylene glycol, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether and dipropylene glycol monoisopropyl ether; 2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbitan, sorbitan, acetin, diacetin, triacetin, sulfolane and mixtures thereof.

[00235] In some embodiments, the water-soluble solvent can be selected from one or more glycols, C 1-4 alcohols, glycerin and mixtures thereof.

[00236] The total amount of the at least one water-soluble solvent in the hair treatment composition may vary, but is typically from about 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably in an amount from about 0.05% to 8% by weight. weight, more preferably about 0.1% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[00237] In various embodiments, the hair care composition according to the present invention is a maintenance conditioning composition in the form of an aqueous composition, emulsion, cream or lotion.

[00238] In one embodiment, the hair treatment composition according to the present invention is a maintenance composition for conditioning and/or maintaining hair in a specific shape or configuration (such as a styling composition).

[00239] In one embodiment, the present invention relates to a method or process of hair treatment, in which the hair treatment composition is applied to hair (dry or wet), massaged into the hair fibers and then maintained on the hair for at least an hour.

[00240] In one embodiment, the present invention relates to a process or method of treatment or hair conditioning according to the general protocol or treatment cycle, comprising: a. optionally washing the hair with shampoo and/or rinsing the hair with water and optionally drying the hair at a temperature ranging from room temperature to about 200 °C (for example, with blow drying) and optional application of a softening action about the hair; B. applying a hair care composition according to the present invention to the hair and holding the hair care composition to the hair for a period of time ranging from about one minute to about an hour, about 15 minutes to about 45 minutes or for about 30 minutes; ç. after holding the hair care composition on the hair for a period of time, optional rinsing the hair from the hair care composition (preferably, the hair care composition is rinsed from the hair, but its hair rinse is not necessary); d. drying the hair at a temperature that varies from room temperature to approximately 200 °C, using, for example, a blow dryer, through the optional application of a softening action to the hair; and. passing a flat plate over the hair, such as passing the flat plate over the hair at least once (or at least 2 times, at least 4 times, at least 5 times or at least 10 times); f. after passing the flat plate over the hair, optionally applying a neutralizing composition to the hair (for example, neutralizing composition comprising hydrogen peroxide) and maintaining the neutralizing composition on the hair for a period of time ranging from about one minute to about one hour, about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes or about 10 minutes; g. washing the hair with shampoo and/or conditioner and/or rinsing the hair with water; and h. drying the hair at a temperature that varies from room temperature to approximately 200 °C, using, for example, a blow dryer, with the optional application of a softening action to the hair.

[00241] The softening action can be conducted by brushing, combing or passing fingers through the hair.

[00242] The drying of hair at a temperature ranging from room temperature to about 200 °C can be performed by drying the hair with a blow dryer device or using other heat sources such as flat plate, hair dryer, heating lamp, heating rod or other similar devices.

[00243] When the above method comprises step (e), the flat plate can be employed at a temperature of about 100°C or ranging from about 100°C to about 250°C, about 110°C to about about 230°C, about 110°C to about 210°C, about 120°C to about 200°C, about 150°C to about 190°C, or about 190°C to about 230 °C, including its bands and sub-ranges, or temperature of about 230 °C, about 225 °C, about 220 °C, about 210 °C, about 200 °C, about 190 °C, about 180 °C, about 150 °C or about 100 °C, preferably about 230 °C.

[00244] In various embodiments, the flat plate is passed over the hairs at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 times or more, such as up to 20, 30, 40, 50 , 75 or 100 times.

The hair care composition can be applied to the hair using an applicator device, hands, gloved hands or fingers. A suitable applicator device is an applicator brush, applicator comb, applicator spatula, or an applicator or release tip connected to the container holding the composition.

[00246] The method or cycle of treatment described above may be repeated over a period of days or weeks.

[00247] The method/process according to the present invention can be followed or preceded by the use of rinse compositions for hair hygiene and/or conditioning, such as shampoo or conditioner.

[00248] The cosmetic effects imposed by the hair treatment compositions and accompanying hair treatment methods according to the present invention can be evaluated by means of visual determination of the appearance of the hair after processing the hair according to the methods according to the present invention. Another type of assessment may also involve sensory assessments of the hair.

It was found, unexpectedly and surprisingly, that hairs which came into contact with the hair care compositions according to the present invention and were treated according to the methods according to the present invention, generally appeared visually to have less volume and less frizz compared to hair in contact with hair care compositions that did not contain thiolactic acid. Using the heat protocol (step e), the hair is apparently more extended and/or smooth and, without this step, the undulations were much more defined. It was also found, unexpectedly and surprisingly, that hairs which had been in contact with the hair care compositions according to the present invention and were treated according to the methods according to the present invention were softer to the touch, more malleable, more disciplined (ie, less or no fluttering strands) and exhibited more regularity with respect to form and appearance. These effects could be even more observed after submitting the hair to several application or treatment cycles.

The hair care compositions according to the present invention can be packaged in any suitable container, such as a tube, jar or bottle. In certain embodiments, the composition can be packaged in tubes or bottles, such as a squeezable tube or squeezable bottle. In addition, applicator devices can be fixed or connected to the opening of the packaging/tube or compressible bottle, where the applicator device is a brush or comb with teeth, so that the ends of the teeth have openings through which the composition according to the present invention can flow and be applied directly to hair.

[00251] The composition according to the present invention can also be provided in the form of a component of a hair treatment kit, wherein the kit can additionally contain other components such as shampoo and/or conditioner and/or hair mask and/or ampoule.

[00252] Although the present invention has been described with reference to a preferred embodiment, those skilled in the art will understand that various changes can be made and equivalents can be replaced by its elements without departing from the scope of the present invention. Furthermore, many modifications can be made to adapt a specific situation or material to the teachings of the present invention without departing from its essential scope. It is therefore intended that the present invention is not limited to the specific embodiment described as the best contemplated mode for carrying out the present invention, but the present invention will include all embodiments which fall within the scope of the appended claims.

The hair care compositions according to the present invention can be manufactured by means of known processes commonly used in cosmetics, including the processes described in the examples below.

[00254] The following examples are intended to be non-restrictive and merely explanatory, with the scope of the described realizations.

The amounts of ingredients in the hair care compositions/formulas described below are expressed in % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

EXAMPLE 1 CONTRIBUTION OF SALT AND THICKENING AGENTS:

[00256] Several compositions were prepared and tested to determine the influence of salts and thickening agents on the viscosity and spreadability of the compositions. Nine formulations were prepared, each with different amounts of thickening agents and salt. The amount of salt ranged from 0% by weight to 3% by weight; and the amount of thickening agents ranged from 0.25% by weight to 0.75% by weight. A viscosity of about 30 UD (1265 cP) was sought.

THE

INCI US % by weight Thio-based compound Thiolactic acid 8 Neutralizing agent Aminomethyl propanol 3 Alkaline agent Salt Sodium chloride 0–3

THE

INCI US % by weight Thickening agent Sclerotic gum and/or xanthan gum 0.25 - 0.75 Dimethicone and/or Silicon 2 amodimethicone Water-soluble solvent Isopropyl alcohol 0.7 Cationic surfactant Beheotrimonium chloride 3.2 Cetearyl alcohol and/or non-surfactant ionic 6 steareth-20 Miscellaneous Fragrance ≤2 Water 74.53

[00257] The initial viscosity of the compositions was measured at 25 °C and 45 °C. The compositions were kept at 25°C and 45°C for two months and the viscosity was measured again.

The viscosity was measured using Rheomat 200 from Lamy at a speed of 200 RPM (revolutions per minute), spindle no. 3, 30 seconds at 25°C. The term “UD” designates Deflection Units and is a measure of the force to turn the spindle within a specimen. Viscosity measurements are given in the tables below as deflection units (UD). Corresponding values in centipoise (cP) are also given in parentheses. Viscosity at 25 °C (UD) Time 1/Time 2 Gum 0.75% weight 0.5% weight 0.25% weight Salt 48 UD / 51 UD 37 UD / 37 UD - 0% weight (2020 cP / 2145 cP ) (1558 cP / 1558 cP) 39 UD / 33 UD 28 UD / 26 UD 24 UD / 23 UD 1% weight (1642 cP / 1391 cP) (1181 cP / 1097 cP) (1014 cP / 971 cP) 33 UD / 31 UD - 28 UD / 26 UD 2% weight (1391 cP / 1307 cP) (1181 cP / 1097 cP) - 33 UD / 32 UD 32 UD / 29 UD 3% weight (1391 cP / 1349 cP) (1349 cP / 1223 cP)

Viscosity at 45 °C (UD) Time 1/Time 2 Salt 0.75% weight 0.5% weight 0.25% weight Gum 51 UD / 41 UD 39 UD / 25 UD - 0% weight (2145 cP / 1726 cP ) (1642 cP / 1055 cP) 34 UD / 33 UD 30 UD / 29 UD 29 UD / 30 UD 1% weight (1443 cP / 1391 cP) (1265 cP / 1223 cP) (1223 cP / 1265 cP) 34 UD / 31 UD - 31 UD / 33 UD 2% weight (1443 cP / 1307 cP) (1307 cP / 1391 cP) - 35 UD / 32 UD 34 UD / 35 UD 3% weight (1475 cP / 1349 cP) (1443 cP / 1475 cP)

[00259] The data demonstrate that, without salt, the viscosity varied greatly over time, especially at higher temperatures. The addition of salt, however, stabilized the viscosity with respect to time and temperature.

[00260] The compositions were also evaluated by experts with respect to spreadability during use. Experts rated the spreadability of the formulations on a scale of 1 to 5, where 5 is best. The results are shown in the table below. Spreadability Expert evaluation Salt 0.75% weight 0.5% weight 0.25% weight Gum 0% weight 2.5 4.5 - 1% weight 3.5 4.0 4.0 2% weight 3, 0 - 2.5 3% weight - 3.0 2.5

[00261] The data demonstrate that the addition of salt consistently improved the spreadability of the compositions.

The composition including 0.5% by weight of thickening agents (gums) and 0% by weight of salt exhibited particularly good spreadability, but the viscosity (and therefore the spreadability) of that composition was not maintained at temperatures higher over time, as shown by the viscosity data in the tables above. The salt compositions, however, exhibited improved spreadability, which was maintained over time and temperature as per the viscosity data above.

EXAMPLE 2

[00262] Compositions:

ABCDEFG INCI US % in % in % in % in % in % in % by weight weight weight weight weight weight Composite with thiolactic acid 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 thio base Neutralizing agent Aminomethyl propanol 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Alkaline agent Salt Sodium chloride 1 2 1 3 1 2 3 Agent Sclerotic and/or thick gum 0.8 0.8 0.5 0.5 0.3 0.3 0.3 xanthan gum Dimethicone and/or Silicon 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 amodimethicone* Hydrosol Solvent Isopropyl Alcohol 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Useful Surfactant Beheotrimonium Chloride 3.2 3.2 3.2 3 ,2 3.2 3.2 3.2 cationic Tensoati Cetearyl alcohol and/or non vo 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 steareth-20 ionic Miscellaneous Fragrance ≤2 ≤2 ≤2 ≤2 ≤2 ≤2 ≤2 Water 74, 53 73.53 74.78 72.78 75.03 74.03 73.03

EXAMPLE 3

[00263] Compositions:

HI

INCI US % by weight % by weight Compound based Thiolactic acid 88 Thio Neutralizing agent Aminomethyl propanol 33 Alkaline agent Salt Sodium chloride 0.7 Xanthan gum and/or Thickening agent 0.7 0.7 Sclerotic gum Dimethicone and/ or Silicon 2.0 2.0 amodimethicone Water-soluble solvent Isopropyl alcohol 0.7 0.7 Cationic surfactant Beheotrimonium chloride 3.2 3.2 Cetearyl alcohol and/or Non-ionic surfactant 6 6 steareth-20 Miscellaneous Preservative/fragrance ≤2 ≤ 2 Water Water 74.8 75.5 EXAMPLE 4 FORMULATION: PERFORMANCE EVALUATION:

Composition H according to the present invention and Comparative Composition I of Example 2 were used to treat the hair of 12 volunteers according to the protocol below.

Half of each volunteer's head was treated with a composition according to the present invention and half of one volunteer's head was treated with a comparative composition. In this way, all 12 volunteers were treated with two compositions.

[00265] 1. The hair was washed with a shampoo that has a neutral pH, rinsed with water and the hair was blow-dried at a temperature ranging from room temperature to about 100 °C or up to about 160 °C, by applying a softening action to the hair.

[00266] 2. Each formulation was spread over the hair and kept permanently on the hair for about 30 minutes before rinsing the hair.

[00267] 3. After rinsing the hair formulations, the hair was dried with a blow dryer at a temperature of up to about 100 °C or up to about 160 °C, by applying a softening action to the hair.

[00268] 4. Flat plate at a temperature of about 230 °C was passed over each hair 10 times.

[00269] 5. The hair was then treated with a neutralizing cream comprising hydrogen peroxide, which was kept on the hair for about 10 minutes before rinsing the hair.

[00270] 6. The hair was then washed with shampoo that has a neutral pH, rinsed with water and kept to dry in the air.

[00271] Experts visually evaluated the hair to determine a number of cosmetic attributes. Average results are given in the table below. H according to Comparative I Attribute of the present invention (average) (average) Brightness (0-5) 3.2 3.1 Ripple pattern (0-5) 1.1 1.1 Homogeneous smoothing (0-5) 3 .2 3.0 Volume (0-5) 1.5 1.4 Smoothing of roots (0-5) 2.1 2.0 Smoothing of length (0-5) 2.2 2.2 Smoothing of tips (0-) -5) 1.9 1.9 Overall smooth (0-5) 2.4 2.3 Visual smoothness (0-5) 3.2 2.9 Discipline (0-5) 3.3 3.0 Tactile smoothness ( 0-5) 2.6 2.5 Volume (0-5) 1.8 1.8 Mass Effect (0-5) 1.4 1.4

H according to Comparative I Attribute of the present invention (average) (average) Crimping (0-5) 0.6 0.8 Flexibility (0-5) 2.5 2.6 Hairstyle (0-5) 4.1 4 ,1 Smoothness (0-2) 1.6 1.1 Coating (0-5) 1.0 1.0 Dry ends (0-2) 0.4 0.4 Individualized hair (0-2) 1.0 1 ,0 Expanded (0-2) 0.1 0.2 Curtain movement (0-5) 2.3 2.3 Lightness (0-5) 2.0 2.0 Discipline after touch (0-5) 3 .6 3.3 Best visual (0-2) 1.7 1.3 Best touch (0-2) 1.4 1.1 Volunteer preference (0-2) 0.8 0.7 Coach preference (0 -2) 0.7 0.3

[00272] Composition H according to the present invention showed significantly better performance in a number of important attributes. Composition H according to the present invention provided visual smoothness, better discipline, better smoothness, better discipline after touch and better visual compared to Comparative Composition I.

Claims (31)

1. CAPILLARY TREATMENT COMPOSITION IN EMULSION FORM characterized in that it comprises: - at least one reducing agent selected from compounds based on thiol; - at least one alkaline agent; - at least one thickening agent; - at least one salt; - optionally, at least one cationic surfactant; and water; where the pH of the composition is less than 7. 2. CAPILLARY TREATMENT COMPOSITION according to claim 1, characterized in that the thiol-based compounds are selected from thiolactic acid, glycerol monothiolactate, ammonium thiolactate, MEA thiolactate, 3-mercaptopropionic acid, glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate , ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate, cysteamine, N-acetylcysteamine, N-propionylcysteamine, cysteine, N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoylcysteine, cysteine alkyl esters, homocysteine, thioglycolic acid, ethanolamine thioglycolate, glyceryl thioglycolate, glyceryl glutathione thiomalic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid and mixtures thereof. 3. CAPILLARY TREATMENT COMPOSITION according to claim 1, characterized in that the compounds based on thiol are selected from thiolactic acid, its derivatives and its salts. 4. CAPILLARY TREATMENT COMPOSITION according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises: - about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 16% by weight, more preferably about 3 to about 14% by weight of the at least one reducing agent, based on the total weight of the hair care composition. 5. CAPILLARY TREATMENT COMPOSITION according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one alkaline agent is selected from organic amines (such as alkanolamine), amino acid, ammonium salt, alkali metal hydroxide, alkali metal hydroxide- earth, alkali metal carbonate, alkali metal phosphate, alkali metal citrate and mixtures thereof. 6. CAPILLARY TREATMENT COMPOSITION according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one alkaline agent comprises an organic amine which is alkanolamine, preferably alkanolamine selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol, tromethamine, monoisopropanolamine, di- isopropanolamine, triisopropanolamine and one of their mixtures, preferably aminomethylpropanol. 7. CAPILLARY TREATMENT COMPOSITION according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises: - about 0.01 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about from 0.2 to about 8% by weight of the at least one alkaline agent, based on the total weight of the hair care composition. 8. CAPILLARY TREATMENT COMPOSITION according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that one or more thickening agents are selected from cellulose polymers, gums, modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, polyacrylamides, acrylic acid and acrylamide copolymers, sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids, optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate, glucans, modified or unmodified starches, silicas and mixtures thereof. 9. CAPILLARY TREATMENT COMPOSITION according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that one or more thickening agents are selected from gums. 10. CAPILLARY TREATMENT COMPOSITION according to claim 11, characterized in that the gums are selected from xanthan gum, guar gum, biosaccharide gum, cellulose, acacia gum, seneca gum, sclerotic gum, agarose, gellan gum and their mixtures, preferably a combination of xanthan gum and sclerotic gum. 11. CAPILLARY TREATMENT COMPOSITION according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises: - about 0.01 to about 10, preferably about 0.05 to about 5, more preferably about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of the at least one thickening agent, based on the total weight of the hair care composition. 12. CAPILLARY TREATMENT COMPOSITION according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the salt is selected from sodium chloride, potassium chloride, magnesium chloride, sodium sulfate, potassium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, calcium chloride and one of his blends. 13. CAPILLARY TREATMENT COMPOSITION according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises: - about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about from 0.5 to about 3% by weight of the at least one salt, based on the total weight of the hair care composition. 14. CAPILLARY TREATMENT COMPOSITION according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a viscosity of about 10 to 50 UD at 25 °C. 15. CAPILLARY TREATMENT COMPOSITION according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the viscosity of the composition does not change by more than about 20% over a temperature range from about 25°C to about 45°C, preferably temperature range from about 5 °C to about 45 °C. 16. CAPILLARY TREATMENT COMPOSITION according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the viscosity of the composition does not change by more than about 20% over two months at constant temperature within a temperature range from about 25 °C to about 45°C, preferably 5°C to about 45°C. 17. CAPILLARY TREATMENT COMPOSITION according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises: - about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight of the at least one cationic surfactant, based on the total weight of the hair care composition. 18. CAPILLARY TREATMENT COMPOSITION according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises at least one nonionic surfactant selected from fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl (ether)phosphates, alkylpolyglycosides, fatty acid alkanolamides and their mixtures. 19. CAPILLARY TREATMENT COMPOSITION according to claim 18, characterized in that it comprises: - from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 12% by weight, more preferably about about 1 to about 10% by weight of the at least one nonionic surfactant. 20. CAPILLARY TREATMENT COMPOSITION according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises: - at least one silicone compound. 21. CAPILLARY TREATMENT COMPOSITION according to claim 20, characterized in that at least one silicone is selected from dimethicone; aminosilicones such as amodimethicone, trideceth-9 PG amodimethicone and PEG-40/methylaminopropyl PPG-8/hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer; dimethicone copolyols selected from oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl(methyl)siloxane, oxyethylenated and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl(C 8-C22) alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane and mixtures thereof. 22. CAPILLARY TREATMENT COMPOSITION according to any of claims 20 or 21, characterized in that it comprises: - from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, by weight preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of the at least one silicone compound, based on the total weight of the hair care composition. 23. CAPILLARY TREATMENT COMPOSITION IN EMULSION FORM characterized in that it comprises: - about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 16% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about from 14% by weight of at least one thiol-based compound selected from thiolactic acid, thiolactic acid esters, salts and mixtures thereof, preferably thiolactic acid; - about 0.01 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 0.2 to about 8% by weight of the at least one selected alkaline agent from organic amines, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, alkali metal citrates and mixtures thereof, preferably organic amine; - about 0.01 to about 10, preferably about 0.05 to about 5, more preferably about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of the at least one thickening agent selected from modified or unmodified cellulose polymers, gums, carboxyvinyl polymers, polyacrylamides, acrylic acid and acrylamide copolymers, sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids, 2-acrylamido-acid polymers and copolymers optionally cross-linked and/or neutralized 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate, glucans, modified or unmodified starches, silicas and mixtures thereof; - about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.2 to about 3% by weight of the at least one salt selected to from sodium chloride, potassium chloride, magnesium chloride, sodium sulfate, potassium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, calcium chloride and one of their mixtures; - about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant selected from optionally polyoxyalkenylated primary, secondary and tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium compounds and their salts, as well as their mixtures, preferably from quaternary ammonium compounds and their salts, more preferably from cetrimonium chloride, beheotrimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl-hydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, beheotrimonium methosulfate and mixtures thereof; - about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 12% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 10% by weight of at least one nonionic surfactant selected to from fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl (ether)phosphates, alkylpolyglycosides, fatty acid alkanolamides and mixtures thereof; - about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of the at least one silicone compound selected to from dimethicone; aminosilicones such as amodimethicone, trideceth-9 PG amodimethicone, PEG-40/PPG-8 methylaminopropyl/hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer; dimethicone copolyol selected from oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl(methyl)siloxane, oxyethylenated and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl(C8-C22) alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane and mixtures thereof; and water; wherein the pH of the composition is less than 7 and the weight percentages are based on the total weight of the hair care composition and the viscosity of the composition does not change by more than about 20% over a temperature range of about from 25 °C to about 45 °C, preferably temperature range from 5 °C to about 45 °C. 24. CAPILLARY TREATMENT COMPOSITION according to claim 23, characterized in that it comprises: - about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 16% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 14% by weight thiolactic acid; - about 0.01 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 0.2 to about 8% by weight of the at least one alkaline agent, wherein the at least one alkaline agent is an alkanolamine selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine and mixtures thereof, preferably triethanolamine and/or aminomethylpropanol; - about 0.01 to about 10, preferably about 0.05 to about 5, more preferably about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of the at least one thickening agent, wherein the at least one thickening agent is a gum; - about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.2 to about 3% by weight of sodium chloride; - about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant, wherein the hair The least one cationic surfactant is a quaternary ammonium compound such as cetrimonium chloride, beheotrimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, beheotrimonium methosulfate or one of their mixtures; - about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 12% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 10% by weight of at least one nonionic surfactant selected to from fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl (ether)phosphates, alkylpolyglycosides, fatty acid alkanolamides and mixtures thereof; - about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of the at least one silicone compound selected to from dimethicone, amodimethicone and one of their mixtures; and water. 25. CAPILLARY TREATMENT METHOD characterized by comprising the following cycle: a. optionally washing the hair with shampoo and/or rinsing the hair with water and optionally drying the hair at a temperature ranging from room temperature to about 200 °C, for example, with blow drying and optional application of a softening action on The hair; B. applying a hair care composition according to any of the preceding claims to the hair and holding the hair care composition on the hair for a period of time ranging from about one minute to about one hour; ç. after holding the hair care composition on the hair for a period of time, optionally rinsing the hair from the hair care composition; d. drying the hair at a temperature that varies from room temperature to approximately 200 °C, using, for example, a blow dryer, through the optional application of a softening action to the hair; and. passing the flat plate over the hair at least once; f. after passing the flat plate over the hair, optionally applying a neutralizing composition to the hair (for example, neutralizing composition comprising hydrogen peroxide) and maintaining the neutralizing composition on the hair for a period of time; and g. washing/rinsing the hair with shampoo and/or rinsing the hair with water, followed by keeping the hair to air dry, with the optional application of a softening action to the hair. 26. METHOD according to claim 25, characterized in that the flat plate is used at a temperature ranging from 100 °C to 250 °C. 27. METHOD according to any of claims 25 or 26, characterized in that step (f) includes passing the flat plate over the hair for at least three times. 28. METHOD according to any of claims 25 to 27, characterized in that the treatment cycle is repeated over a period of days. 29. METHOD OF PROVIDING THE HAIR WITH ONE OR MORE HAIR CARE EFFECTS selected from: i. conditioning; ii. smoothing or relaxing effects; iii. malleability; iv. crimp control; v. volume down or volume control; saw. hairstyle or modeling effects; vii. ripple effects; viii. relaxation effects; ix. increase or retention of the definition of the undulation; x. moisture resistance; xi. cosmetic feel; xii. soft feel; xiii. natural feel; xiv. subject; xv. regularity; xvi. reduction of rough edges; and xvii. hair appearance improvement; characterized in that it comprises the application to the hair of a hair treatment composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 25. 30. The method according to claim 29, characterized in that it comprises applying the hair treatment composition to the hair more than once over a period of days. 31. HAIR TREATMENT COMPOSITION according to claim 1, characterized in that the ratio between the total amount of thickening agents and the total amount of salts in the hair treatment composition is from about 1:10 to about 10:1.