BR112020011473B1 - HAIR TREATMENT COMPOSITIONS, NON-THERAPEUTIC COSMETIC METHOD FOR HAIR TREATMENT AND METHOD FOR TRANSMITTING ONE OR MORE HAIR CARE EFFECTS TO THE HAIR - Google Patents

Abstract

The present disclosure relates to hair treatment compositions comprising: (a) at least one reducing agent selected from thiol-based compounds, non-thiol-based compounds and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one disulfide compound selected from dithioglycolic acid, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof; (c) at least one non-polymeric non-thiol mono-, di- and/or tri-carboxylic acid, and/or a salt thereof, or a mixture thereof; (d) optionally, at least one cationic surfactant; and (e) water; wherein the pH of the composition is about 2 to less than 7. The disclosure also relates to methods of imparting hair care benefits, such as smoothing effects, volume reduction, frizz control, manageability, cosmeticity and soft feel, plus conditioning benefits.

Description

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[001] The present disclosure relates to hair care compositions comprising reducing agents, such as thiol-based compounds, and to methods of providing cosmetic and hair care benefits using the hair care compositions.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[002] The quality and condition of the hair is generally adversely affected by the action of external agents, such as sunlight, wind, pollution, humidity and chemicals in swimming pools, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, washing by shampoo, dyeing, discoloration, permanent wave and/or relaxer. Hair is therefore damaged by these various factors and, over time, can become dry, thick or dull, especially in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends, leading to split ends. Under such circumstances, hair can also become less manageable, more frizzy and less disciplined, and more difficult to style or style.

[003] Hair products are used to combat these inconveniences. Conventional cleaning compositions, such as shampoos, for example, which contain surfactants, such as anionic, nonionic and/or amphoteric surfactants, can be used to remove the various types of dirt typically present in hair. Such cleaning compositions, while offering good cleaning power, may result in the hair feeling less conditioned or rough due to, for example, the gradual removal of natural or applied fats, lipids or proteins contained on the surface of the hair. In addition, washing your hair with just water can also make your hair look tangled, less straight and dry.

[004] Hair conditioning products or hair masks (masks) can be used on the hair after it has been shampooed or rinsed, in order to impart care properties to the hair. Traditional conditioners and masks provide conditioning, smoothing, softness and visual elegance to the hair and are generally rinse-off products.

[005] Consumers are also looking for hair care regimes and products that can provide control, or even eliminate frizz, and control or reduce the volume and apparent mass of hair on the head, in addition to offering additional benefits by changing the appearance , the shape or configuration of the hair. Additionally, consumers want these products to provide lasting or ongoing benefits to their hair over a period of time. Thus, it is desirable for hair care manufacturers to formulate not only rinse-off shampoos and conditioners, but also products that do not involve immediate rinsing or provide long-term treatments such as those provided by leave-in hair products.

[006] One type of product that can style or shape the hair are hair styling products, for example, leave-in gels and creams that employ ingredients such as film-forming polymers that provide a desirable style or hold while in the hair. However, some ingredients can be easily removed from the hair, for example by rinsing or washing. Thus, any cosmetic benefits to hair from such products are usually diminished or removed when hair is rinsed or washed.

[007] Another type of composition that can be applied to hair to change its shape and make it more manageable is an alkaline composition that is found in commercial hair relaxers or straighteners. These products can give hair longer-lasting shape or style. Alkaline hair relaxer/straightener involves hydrolyzing the keratin of the hair with various alkaline agents such as inorganic hydroxides eg sodium hydroxide or organic hydroxides such as guanidine hydroxide or organic amines. Hair relaxer/straightener products that use sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide are also called bleach-based products and products that use other alkaline agents such as lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, organic hydroxides and other non-alkaline compounds. hydroxides, for example, organic amines, generally fall into the category of non-bleach products. Still, it is desirable to find alternatives to the bleach-based and non-bleach alkaline products and processes described above that can damage hair by weakening and/or causing dryness of the hair fibers.

[008] Thus, it is highly desirable to have hair care regimens and products that, for example, relax or smooth curly or frizzy hair, including wavy hair, or reduce/loosen curls, making hair more manageable, detangled, more easily styled or shaped, and disciplined. At the same time, it is also highly desirable that these regimens and products impart long-lasting cosmetic effects.

[009] It is an object of the embodiments of the disclosure to provide a hair care composition with ingredients that can effectively condition the hair and at the same time provide a light feeling, good styling/shaping or straightening benefits, as well as improved hair care and manageability properties and other cosmetic properties such as volume control/reduction, frizz control/reduction, discipline (less flyaways) and shape regularity.

[010] However, the discovery of new compositions and processes for the treatment of hair that have improved efficacy, but that provide minor or minimal damage to the hair, can represent a challenge for manufacturers and formulators, because the incorporation of new ingredients in the compositions can negatively affect their performance, cosmetic attributes, texture and stability of the formulation. Additionally, acidity/alkalinity and/or pH is an important consideration for these products. New processes for treating and changing the shape of hair can also affect the performance of compositions, processing times and quality of use. Thus, manufacturers of such products continually test the use of new raw materials and ingredients or new forms of products and seek to reformulate and create new products with the desired qualities, keeping them stable and safe to use.

SHORT DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[011] The present disclosure is directed to hair treatment compositions comprising: - at least one reducing agent selected from thiol-based compounds, non-thiol-based compounds and mixtures thereof; - at least one disulfide compound selected from dithioglycolic acid, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof; - at least one non-polymeric and non-thiol mono-, di- and/or tri-carboxylic acid and/or a salt thereof or a mixture thereof; - optionally, at least one cationic surfactant; and water. wherein the pH of the composition is from about 2 to less than 7.

[012] In addition to the reducing agent(s), the disulfide compound(s), the non-polymeric and non-thiol carboxylic acid(s) (s), the optional cationic surfactant(s) and water, in some embodiments, the hair care compositions additionally include at least one alkaline agent. Also, in some embodiments, hair care compositions can include at least one nonionic surfactant, at least one thickening agent, at least one silicone compound, and/or at least one water-soluble solvent.

[013] The present disclosure is also directed to methods for treating hair involving the application of the composition described above to the hair and, optionally, heating the hair.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[014] The implementations of the present disclosure will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying figures, in which: Figure 1 compares hair samples treated with comparative formulations with hair samples treated with compositions of the invention.

[015] It should be understood that the various aspects are not limited to the arrangements and instrumentalities shown in the drawings.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[016] The present hair care compositions effectively condition the hair and provide manageability properties to the hair, including one or more smoothing effects; frizz control; volume reduction or volume control; light feel in the hair, styling or modeling effects; ripple effects; relaxing effects or reduction/loosening of curls; improvement or retention of curl definition; moisture resistance; cosmeticity for sensation; smooth feel; natural feel; smaller or reduced hard ends; and/or improvement of hair appearance.

[017] “At least one”, as used herein, is synonymous with “one or more” and includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

[018] "Conditioning", as used herein, means giving one or more hair fibers at least one property chosen from combability, hydration retention, luster, shine and softness. Conditioning status can be assessed by any means known in the art, such as, for example, measuring and comparing the combability of treated hair and untreated hair in terms of combing work (gm-in), and perceived combability. consumer.

[019] The term "treat" (and its grammatical variations), as used herein, refers to the application of the hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure to the surface of the hair. The term 'treat' (and its grammatical variations), as used herein, also refers to contacting the hair with the hair care compositions of the present disclosure.

[020] A "rinse off" product refers to a composition, such as a hair care composition, that is rinsed and/or washed off with water after or during application of the composition to the keratinous substrate and before drying and/ or shaping said keratinous substrate. At least a portion of the composition is removed from the keratinous substrate during rinsing and/or washing.

[021] A "rinse-free" product (also called a leave-in) refers to a hair care composition, such as a hair care composition, that is applied to a keratinous substrate, such as hair, and not further subjected to a rinsing and/or washing step for at least 1 hour or for a period of time ranging from 1 hour to 72 hours, such as from 4 hours to 48 hours or from 8 hours to 36 hours or from 8 hours to 24 hours.

[022] The term "stable", as used herein, means that the composition does not exhibit phase separation and/or crystallization.

[023] The term "volatile", as used herein, means having a flash point of less than about 100 °C.

[024] The term “non-volatile”, as used herein, means having a flash point greater than about 100 °C.

[025] The term "reducing agent", as used herein, means an agent capable of reducing the disulfide bonds of hair.

[026] The term "active material", as used herein, with respect to the percentage amount of an ingredient or raw material, refers to 100% activity of the ingredient or raw material.

[027] The term "substituted", as used herein, means comprising one or more substituents. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen-containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulfonate groups, thiosulfate groups, siloxane groups and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may be further substituted.

[028] The term "polymers", as defined herein, includes homopolymers and copolymers formed from at least two different types of monomers.

[029] The term “INCI” is an abbreviation for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a naming system provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to describe personal care ingredients.

[030] The hair treatment compositions and methods of the present disclosure may comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the disclosure described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components or limitations described or useful herein.

[031] Except in the operational examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as modified in all cases by the term “about”, meaning within +/ - 5% of the indicated number.

[032] All percentages, parts and ratios contained herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present disclosure, unless otherwise indicated.

[033] As used in this document, all ranges provided must include all specified ranges within and combinations of subranges between the ranges provided. Thus, a range of 1-5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as subranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.

[034] The terms “a”, “an” and “the” are understood to encompass the plural and the singular. Thus, the term "a mixture thereof" also refers to "mixtures thereof". Throughout the disclosure, the term “a mixture thereof” is used, following a list of elements, as shown in the following example, where the letters A-F represent the elements: “one or more elements selected from A, B, C, D, E, F and a mixture thereof.” The term "a mixture thereof" does not require that the mixture include all items A, B, C, D, E and F (although all items A, B, C, D, E and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase “one or more elements selected from A, B, C, D, E, F and a mixture of two or more from A, B, C, D, E and F.”

[035] Likewise, the term “a salt thereof” also refers to “salts thereof”. Thus, when the disclosure refers to "an element selected from A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof", it indicates that one or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of an A salt, a B salt, a C salt, a D salt, an E salt and an F salt may be included or a mixture of two of A, B, C, D, E, F, an A salt, a B salt, a C salt, a D salt, an E salt and an F salt may be included.

[036] Some of the various categories of components identified may overlap. In those cases where overlap may exist and the composition includes both components (or the composition includes more than two components that overlap), an overlapping compound does not represent more than one component. For example, a fatty acid can be characterized as a nonionic surfactant and a fatty compound. If a specific composition includes a non-ionic surfactant and a fatty compound, a single fatty acid will serve as both a non-ionic surfactant and a fatty compound only (a single fatty acid does not serve as both a non-ionic surfactant and a fatty compound).

[037] The present disclosure relates to a hair treatment composition comprising: - at least one reducing agent selected from thiol-based compounds, non-thiol-based compounds and mixtures thereof; - at least one disulfide compound selected from dithioglycolic acid, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof; - at least one non-polymeric and non-thiol mono-, di- and/or tri-carboxylic acid, and/or a salt thereof; - optionally, at least one cationic surfactant; and - water, wherein the pH of the composition is from about 2 to less than 7.

[038] A particularly useful and preferred thio-based compound is thiolactic acid.

[039] The total amount of the at least one reducing agent in the hair care compositions can vary, but is typically from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 16% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 14% by weight, even more preferably from about 2 to about 12% by weight, and even more preferably from about 4 to about 10% by weight, and even more preferably from about 6 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition.

[040] Likewise, the total amount of the at least one disulfide compound in the hair care composition can vary, but is typically from about 0.01 to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.05 to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, or even more preferably from about 0.2 to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the treatment composition of hair.

[041] The hair treatment compositions include at least one non-polymeric non-thiol mono-, di- and/or tri-carboxylic acid, a salt thereof or a mixture thereof. Non-limiting examples of monocarboxylic acids include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, entactic acid, caprylic acid, pelargonic acid, capric acid, undecyl acid, lauric acid, tridecyl acid, myristic acid, acid pentadecyl, palmitic acid, margaric acid, stearic acid, non-adecyl acid, arachidic acid, lactic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof. In some cases, lactic acid and/or a salt thereof is a preferred monocarboxylic acid.

[042] Non-limiting examples of dicarboxylic acids include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, acid phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof. In some cases, malic acid, glutaric acid, a salt thereof or a mixture thereof are preferable dicarboxylic acids.

[043] Non-limiting examples of tricarboxylic acids include citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitric acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, benzene-1,3,5-tricarboxylic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof . In some cases, citric acid and/or a salt thereof is a preferred tricarboxylic acid.

[044] In some embodiments, the hair treatment compositions include at least two, three or four non-polymeric non-thiol mono-, di- and / or tricarboxylic acids, a salt thereof or a mixture thereof.

[045] Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants that can be included in the hair treatment composition include primary, secondary and tertiary polyoxyalkenylated fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium compounds and their salts and mixtures thereof, and preferably quaternary ammonium compounds and their salts, and more preferably those selected from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, behentrimonium methosulfate and mixtures thereof. A more exhaustive list of useful cationic surfactants that may be included is provided later under the heading “Cationic Surfactant”.

[046] The total amount of the at least one cationic surfactant in the hair treatment compositions can vary, but is typically from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably 0.5 to about 10% by weight and more preferably from about 1 to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition.

[047] In certain embodiments, the hair care compositions of the present disclosure include at least one non-ionic surfactant. Non-limiting examples of nonionic surfactants include fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl(ether) phosphates, alkylpolyglucosides, fatty acid alkanolamides, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the at least one non-ionic surfactant is selected from linear, branched, saturated/unsaturated fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 60 carbon atoms and preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol ( mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyl decanol, palmethyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleyl (or oleyl) alcohol, linoleyl alcohol (or linoleyl ether), linolenic alcohol (or linolenyl) and undecylenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, and more preferably cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol, stearate-20, PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate, Dicetyl phosphate, Cetyl phosphate, Stearyl phosphate, laureth-7, laureth-9, trideceth-10, trideceth-12, C12-13 pareth-3, C12-13 pareth-23, C11-15 pareth-7, PPG-5 ceteth-20, propylene glycol oleate PEG-55, glycereth-26, decyl glucoside, cetearyl glycoside, decyl lauryl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, coco glucoside, cocamide MIPA and mixtures thereof. A more exhaustive list of useful nonionic surfactants that may be included is provided later under the heading “Nonionic Surfactant”.

[048] In one embodiment of the disclosure, the total amount of the at least one nonionic surfactant can vary, but is typically about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 12% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 10% by weight, and most preferably from about 2 to about 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition.

[049] In certain embodiments, the hair care compositions of the present disclosure include at least one thickening agent. Non-limiting examples of useful thickening agents include cellulose polymers, gums, modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, polyacrylamides, copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide, sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate, glucans, modified or unmodified starches, silicas and mixtures thereof.

[050] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one thickening agent comprises a gum, especially those derived from natural sources. Non-limiting examples of useful gums include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluronic acid hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp (kelp), locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotia gum, carboxymethyl dextran sodium, sodium carrageenan, gum tragacanth, xanthan gum and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred gums include xanthan gum, guar gum, biosaccharide gum, cellulose, acacia gum, senecic gum, sclerotia gum, agarose, gellan gum and mixtures thereof. In some cases, a combination of xanthan gum and sclerotia gum can be particularly helpful. A more exhaustive list of useful thickening agents that can be included is provided later under the heading “Thickening Agent”.

[051] The total amount of the at least one thickening agent in the hair care compositions can vary, but is typically from about 0.01 to about 10, preferably from about 0.05 to about 8, most preferably from about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, and most preferably from about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition.

[052] In some embodiments of the present disclosure, the hair care compositions include at least one silicone compound. Non-limiting examples of useful silicone compounds include dimethicone; aminosilicones such as amodimethicone, trideceth-9 PG amodimethicone, methylaminopropyl/hydroxypropyl dimethicone PEG-40/PPG-8 copolymer; dimethicone copolyols selected from oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl(methyl)siloxane, oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl(C8C22)alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred silicone compounds include dimethicone and/or amodimethicone. A more exhaustive list of useful silicone compounds that may be included is provided later under the heading “Silicone Compound”.

[053] The total amount of at least one silicone compound in the hair care compositions can vary, but is typically from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 10 % by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition.

[054] In some embodiments, the hair care compositions of the present disclosure include at least one alkaline agent. Non-limiting examples of useful alkaline agents include organic amines, ammonium, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, alkali metal citrates, amino acids (e.g., L-lysine, L -arginine, etc.), and mixtures thereof, and preferably those selected from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, aminomethyl propanediol, triisopropanol amine, dimethylstearylamine, dimethyl tallowamine, lysine, ornithine , arginine, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, calcium hydroxide, calcium bicarbonate and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the alkaline agent is a diamine, for example a diamine such as tetrahydroxyethyl ethylenediamine, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine dioleate or a mixture thereof. In one embodiment, a preferred alkaline agent is an alkali metal hydroxide and/or an alkaline earth metal hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide or a mixture thereof. In one embodiment, particularly preferred alkaline agents are organic amines, especially alkanolamines, for example an alkanolamine selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, tetrahydroxy propyl ethylenediamine and a mixture thereof; and most preferably triethanolamine. In one embodiment, the alkaline agent is selected from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, triethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol and a mixture thereof.

[055] The total amount of the at least one alkaline agent in the hair care composition can vary, but is typically from about 0.01 to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 12% by weight, more preferably from about 0.2 to about 10% by weight, and even more preferably from about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition.

[056] In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the pH of hair care compositions can vary from about 2.5 to about 6.5, or from about 3 to about 6, or from about 3 to about 5.2, such as from about 3 to about 5, or preferably from about 3 to about 4.8, or more preferably from about 3 to about 4.5, or even more preferably from about from 3 to about 4, including all intervals and subintervals in between.

[057] In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the hair treatment composition is a leave-in composition. Furthermore, in some embodiments, the hair care compositions can be in the form of a gel, paste, lotion, cream or spray.

[058] In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the hair treatment composition includes: - about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 16% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 14% by weight of at least one thiol-based compound selected from thiolactic acid, an ester thereof, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof, preferably thiolactic acid; - about 0.01 to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.05 to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of diammonium dithiodiglycolate; - about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 12% by weight, even more preferably from about 2 to about 11% by weight and more preferably from about 3 to about 10% by weight of the at least one non-polymeric non-thiol mono-, di- and/or tricarboxylic acid, and/or salts thereof, preferably lactic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citric acid, a salt thereof or a mixture thereof, based on the total weight of the hair care composition; - optionally about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably 0.5 to about 10% by weight, and more preferably from about 1 to about 6% by weight of at least one selected cationic surfactant from optionally polyoxyalkenylated primary, secondary and tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium compounds and their salts, and mixtures thereof, and preferably quaternary ammonium compounds and their salts, and more preferably cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, methosulfate of dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium, behentrimonium methosulfate and mixtures thereof; - optionally from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 12% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 10% by weight of at least one non-toxic surfactant ionic selected from fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl(ether) phosphates, alkylpolyglucosides, alkanolamides of fatty acids and mixtures thereof; - optionally from about 0.01 to about 10, preferably from about 0.05 to about 8, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 6% by weight of the at least one thickening agent selected from cellulose polymers, gums, modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, polyacrylamides, copolymers of acrylic and acrylamide acids, sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids, polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate, glucans, modified or unmodified starches, silicas and mixtures thereof; - optionally about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 5% by weight of the at least one compound of silicone selected from dimethicone; aminosilicones such as amodimethicone, trideceth-9 PG amodimethicone, methylaminopropyl/hydroxypropyl dimethicone PEG-40/PPG-8 copolymer; dimethicone copolyol selected from oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl(methyl)siloxane, oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl (C8-C22) alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane and mixtures thereof; - optionally about 0.01 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 12% by weight, more preferably from about 0.2 to about 10% by weight of the at least one alkaline agent selected from organic amines (such as an alkanolamine), an amino acid, an ammonium salt, an alkali metal hydroxide, an alkaline earth metal hydroxide, an alkali metal carbonate, an alkali metal phosphate, a citrate alkali metal and mixtures thereof, preferably an alkanolamine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol, tromethamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, triisopropanolamine and a mixture thereof; and water; wherein the pH of the composition is from about pH 2 to less than 7. In some embodiments, the pH can be from about pH 2 to about 6.5, or from about pH 2.1 to about 6 , or from about pH 2.2 to about 5.2, such as from about pH 2.2 to about 5, or preferably from about pH 2.2 to about 4.8, or more preferably from about pH 2.2 to about 4.5, or even more preferably from about pH 2.2 to about 4, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

[059] In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the hair treatment composition includes: - about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 16% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 14% by weight of thiolactic acid; - about 0.01 to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.05 to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of diammonium dithiodiglycolate; - about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 12% by weight, even more preferably from about 2 to about 11% by weight and more preferably from about 3 to about 10% by weight of at least one non-polymeric non-thiol monocarboxylic acid and/or a salt thereof, and preferably chosen from lactic acid, based on the total weight of the hair care composition; and water; wherein the pH of the composition is from about pH 2 to less than 7. In some embodiments, the pH can be from about pH 2 to about 6.5, or from about pH 2.1 to about 6 , or from about pH 2.2 to about 5.2, such as from about pH 2.2 to about 5, or preferably from about pH 2.2 to about 4.8, or more preferably from about pH 2.2 to about 4.5, or even more preferably from about pH 2.2 to about 4.0, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. - 060] In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the hair care composition includes: - about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 16% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 14% by weight of thiolactic acid; - about 0.01 to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.05 to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of diammonium dithiodiglycolate; - about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 12% by weight, even more preferably from about 2 to about 11% by weight and more preferably from about 3 to about 10% by weight of at least one non-polymeric, non-thiol dicarboxylic acid and/or a salt thereof, and preferably chosen from glutaric acid, malic acid, a salt thereof or a mixture thereof, based on the total weight of the hair care composition; and water; wherein the pH of the composition is from about pH 2 to less than 7. In some embodiments, the pH can be from about pH 2 to about 6.5, or from about pH 2.1 to about 6 , or from about pH 2.2 to about 5.2, such as from about pH 2.2 to about 5, or preferably from about pH 2.2 to about 4.8, or more preferably from about pH 2.2 to about 4.5, or even more preferably from about pH 2.2 to about 4.0, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

[060] In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the hair treatment composition includes: - about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 16% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 14% by weight of thiolactic acid; - about 0.01 to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.05 to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of diammonium dithiodiglycolate; - about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 12% by weight, even more preferably from about 2 to about 11% by weight and more preferably from about 3 to about 10% by weight of at least one non-polymeric, non-thiol dicarboxylic acid and/or a salt thereof, and preferably chosen from glutaric acid, malic acid, a salt thereof or a mixture thereof, based on the total weight of the hair care composition; and water; wherein the pH of the composition is from about pH 2 to less than 7. In some embodiments, the pH can be from about pH 2 to about 6.5, or from about pH 2.1 to about 6 , or from about pH 2.2 to about 5.2, such as from about pH 2.2 to about 5, or preferably from about pH 2.2 to about 4.8, or more preferably from about pH 2.2 to about 4.5, or even more preferably from about pH 2.2 to about 4.0, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

[061] In one embodiment, the hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure comprise at least one non-polymeric and non-thiol monocarboxylic acid and/or salts thereof, and at least one non-polymeric and non-thiol dicarboxylic acid and/or a salt of the same.

[062] In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the hair treatment composition includes: - about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 16% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 14% by weight of thiolactic acid; - about 0.01 to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.05 to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of diammonium dithiodiglycolate; - about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 12% by weight, even more preferably from about 2 to about 11% by weight and more preferably from about 3 to about 10% by weight of the at least one non-polymeric non-thiol mono-, di- and/or tricarboxylic acid, and/or salts thereof, preferably lactic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citric acid, a salt thereof or a mixture thereof, based on the total weight of the hair care composition; - optionally about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably 0.5 to about 10% by weight and most preferably from about 1 to about 6% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant, in that the at least one cationic surfactant is a quaternary ammonium compound such as cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, behentrimonium methosulfate or a mixture thereof; - optionally from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 12% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 10% by weight of at least one non-toxic surfactant ionic selected from fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl(ether) phosphates, alkylpolyglucosides, alkanolamides of fatty acids and mixtures thereof; - optionally from about 0.01 to about 10, preferably from about 0.05 to about 8, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 6% by weight of the at least one thickening agent, wherein the at least one thickening agent is a gum, for example a gum selected from xanthan gum, guar gum, biosaccharide gum, acacia gum, senecic gum, sclerotia gum, gellan gum and a mixture thereof; - optionally about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 5% by weight of the at least one compound of silicone selected from dimethicone, amodimethicone and mixtures thereof; - optionally about 0.01 to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 12% by weight, more preferably from about 0.2 to about 10% by weight of the at least one alkaline agent, wherein the at least one alkaline agent is an alkanolamine selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, a mixture thereof, preferably triethanolamine and/or aminomethyl propanol ; and water; wherein the pH of the composition is from about pH 2 to less than 7. In some embodiments, the pH can be from about pH 2 to about 6.5, or from about pH 2.1 to about 6 , or from about pH 2.2 to about 5.2, such as from about pH 2.2 to about 5, or preferably from about pH 2.2 to about 4.8, or more preferably from about pH 2.2 to about 4.5, or even more preferably about pH 2.2 to about 4.0, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

[063] a) optionally, washing the hair with a shampoo and/or rinsing the hair with water and, optionally, drying the hair at a temperature ranging from room temperature to about 200 °C (for example, with a hair dryer ) and optionally apply a smoothing action to the hair.

[064] b) applying a hair care composition according to the present disclosure to the hair and allowing the hair care composition to remain on the hair for a period of time ranging from about 1 minute to about 1 hour, from about 15 minutes to about 45 minutes, or for about 30 minutes.

[065] c) after allowing the hair care composition to remain on the hair for a period of time, optionally rinsing the hair care composition from the hair (preferably, the hair care composition is rinsed from the hair, but hair rinsing is not necessary).

[066] d) drying the hair at a temperature ranging from room temperature to about 200 °C, for example using a hair dryer, while optionally applying a smoothing action to the hair.

[067] e) run a flat iron over the hair, for example, run the flat iron over the hair at least once (or at least 2 times, at least 4 times, at least 5 times or at least 10 times or more, per example, up to 20, 22, 25, 28, 30, 40, 50, 75 or 100 times).

[068] f) after passing the flat iron over the hair, optionally apply a neutralizing composition to the hair (for example, a neutralizing composition comprising hydrogen peroxide) and allow the neutralizing composition to remain on the hair for a period of time that varies from about 1 minute to about 1 hour, about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes, or about 10 minutes.

[069] g) wash the hair with a shampoo and/or a conditioner and/or rinse the hair with water.

[070] h) drying the hair at a temperature ranging from room temperature to about 200 °C, for example using a hair dryer, while optionally applying a smoothing action to the hair.

[071] In one embodiment, the flat iron is used at a temperature ranging from about 100 °C to about 250 °C or from about 110 °C to about 230 °C or from about 110 °C to about 210°C, or from about 120°C to about 200°C, or from about 150°C to about 190°C, or from about 190°C to about 250°C, and preferably at about 190°C or about 200°C, or about 230°C, or about 250°C. In one embodiment, the flat iron in step (f) is passed over the hair at least 3 times or at least 5 times or at least 10 times or more (e.g. up to 20, 22, 25, 28, 30 or ).

[072] In one embodiment, the above-described method for treating hair includes a method of straightening or relaxing curly hair.

[073] In one embodiment, after passing the flat iron over the hair, the method described above includes a step of applying a neutralizing composition to the hair (for example, a neutralizing composition comprising an oxidizing agent, such as hydrogen peroxide) and allowing the neutralizing composition to remain on the hair for a period of time ranging from about 1 minute to about 1 hour; about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes or about 10 minutes.

[074] In some embodiments, the at least one oxidizing agent in the neutralizing composition can be selected from hydrogen peroxide, persalts such as persulfates, percarbonates and perborates, urea peroxide, alkaline bromates and polyionionates. In some embodiments, hydrogen peroxide is used.

[075] In some embodiments, the at least one oxidizing agent in the neutralizing composition may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 50 percent by weight, such as from 1 to 20 percent by weight, relative to to the total weight of the composition.

[076] In some embodiments, when the at least one oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide, the neutralizing composition described herein may comprise at least one agent that stabilizes the hydrogen peroxide. As examples of agents that stabilize hydrogen peroxide, non-limiting mention may be made of alkali or alkaline earth metal pyrophosphates, alkali or alkaline earth metal stannates, and phenacetin or salts of acids and oxyquinoline, such as sulfate of oxyquinoline. In some embodiments, the at least one hydrogen peroxide stabilizing agent can be present in an amount ranging from 0.0001 to 5 weight percent, such as from 0.01 to 2 weight percent, in relative to the total weight of the composition.

[077] The method described above may also comprise a step of rinsing the hair with water after contacting the hair with the neutralizing composition.

[078] The methods described in the present disclosure, including the methods described above, may include providing hair with one or more hair care effects selected from: (i) conditioning; (ii) smoothing or relaxing effects; (iii) manageability; (iv) frizz control; (v) volume reduction or volume control; (vi) styling or modeling effects; (vii) ripple effects; (viii) texlaxing effects (resulting in wavy hair or less tight curls); (ix) improvement or retention of curl definition; (x) moisture resistance; (xi) cosmeticity for sensation; (xii) smooth feeling; (xiii) natural feel; (xiv) discipline; (xv) regularity; (xvi) smaller or reduced coarse ends; and (xvii) improvement of hair appearance.

[079] The methods for achieving one or more of the effects described above comprise applying a hair treatment composition according to the present disclosure to the hair, and allowing the composition to remain on the hair while styling or straightening the hair afterwards. In one embodiment, the hair care composition is applied to the hair more than once over a period of days, for example, a period of 2 to 30 days, a period of 2 to 15 days, a period of 2 to 10 days, &c.

[080] According to the present disclosure, the inventors have surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that the hair care compositions of the present disclosure effectively condition the hair and at the same time provide other hair care benefits to the hair fibers, such as light weight feel to the hair, smoothing or relaxing effects, volume reduction, frizz control, frizz reduction, manageability, discipline, cosmeticity and soft feel.

[081] The hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure do not require film-forming polymers. Therefore, in some embodiments, film-forming polymers can be excluded from hair care compositions. In other words, the hair care compositions of the present disclosure can be free or essentially free of film-forming polymers.

[082] It has also been surprisingly and unexpectedly found that application of the hair care compositions to hair results in effectively conditioned hair and imparts/improves the cosmetic properties of hair fibers, in particular human hair, for example, in terms of manageability, smoothing or relaxing effects, frizz reduction, volume reduction, frizz control, manageability, discipline, cosmeticity and soft feel.

[083] The hair treatment compositions described in the present disclosure can be used on any type of hair, for example, light or dark hair, straight or curly, natural hair or hair that has undergone a cosmetic treatment, such as permanent curling, dyeing, coloring, highlighting, bleaching and/or relaxing.

[084] In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure is applied to curly, brittle and/or damaged hair.

[085] Other matters and features, aspects and benefits of the disclosure will emerge even more clearly upon reading the entirety of this disclosure.

REDUCING AGENTS

[086] The hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure include at least one reducing agent selected from thiol-based compounds, non-thiol-based compounds and mixtures thereof.

THYOL-BASED COMPOUNDS

[087] Thiol-based compounds can be selected from thiolactic acid and derivatives thereof, 3-mercaptopropionic acid and derivatives thereof, cysteamine and derivatives thereof, cysteine and derivatives thereof, thioglycolic acid and derivatives thereof ( including their esters), diammonium dithiodiglycolate and mixtures thereof.

[088] In some embodiments, the at least one reducing agent is a thiol-based compound selected from thiolactic acid, glycerol monothiolactate, ammonium thiolactate, MEA-thiolactate, 3-mercaptopropionic acid, 3-mercaptopropionate glycerol, glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate, ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate, cysteamine, N-acetylcysteamine, N-propionylcysteamine, cysteine, N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoylcysteine, cysteine alkyl esters, homocysteine, thioglycolic acid, ethanolamine thioglycolate, sodium thioglycolate glyceryl, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid and mixtures thereof.

[089] In one embodiment, the at least one reducing agent is selected from thiolactic acid and derivatives thereof, such as an ester thereof, an amide thereof, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof.

[090] The at least one reducing agent can be selected from thiolactic acid, an ester thereof, an amide thereof, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof and can be used in combination with other thiol-based compounds selected from thioglycolic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, homocystine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, 3-mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid, N - acetylcysteine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

[091] In one embodiment, the at least one reducing agent can be selected from non-thiol-based compounds, such as alkali metal, alkaline earth metal sulfites, hydrides or phosphines and mixtures thereof.

[092] In some embodiments, the at least one reducing agent may comprise thiol-based compounds and non-thiol-based compounds.

[093] In certain embodiments, the at least one reducing agent used in the composition of the disclosure is thiolactic acid.

NON-THIOL-BASED COMPOUNDS

[094] Non-limiting examples of non-thiol-based reducing compounds include ortho-diphenol derivatives with reducing properties. In a manner known per se, the term "ortho-diphenol" denotes compounds comprising at least one aromatic ring, preferably a benzene ring, comprising at least two hydroxyl groups (OH) carried by two adjacent carbon atoms of the aromatic ring which, in addition to Furthermore, they do not comprise a mercapto or disulfide group.

[095] The aromatic ring may be more particularly a fused aryl or a fused heteroaromatic ring, that is, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms, such as benzene, naphthalene, tetrahydronaphthalene, indane, indene, anthracene, phenanthrene, isoindole, indoline, isoindoline, benzofuran, dihydrobenzofuran, dihydrobenzofuran, dihydrobenzofuran, chroman, isochroman, chromene, isochromene, quinoline, tetrahydroquinoline and isoquinoline, said aromatic ring comprising at least two hydroxyl groups supported by two adjacent carbon atoms of the aromatic ring. Preferably, the aromatic ring of the ortho-diphenol derivatives according to the invention is a benzene ring.

[096] The term "fused ring" means that at least two saturated or unsaturated and heterocyclic or non-heterocyclic rings have a common bond, that is, that at least one ring is joined side by side with another ring.

[097] The ortho-diphenols according to the invention may or may not be salified. They can also be in the form of aglycone (without attached sugars) or in the form of glycosylated compounds.

em que na fórmula (I) os substituintes: R1 a R4, que podem ser idênticos ou diferentes, representam: um átomo de hidrogênio, um átomo de halogênio, um radical hidroxila, um radical carboxila; um radical carboxilato de alquila ou alcoxicarbonil, um radical amino opcionalmente substituído, um radical alquila opcionalmente substituído e linear ou ramificado, um radical alquenila opcionalmente substituído e linear ou ramificado, um radical cicloalquila opcionalmente substituído, um radical alcoxi, um radical alcoxialquila, um radical alcoxiarila, o grupo arila possivelmente sendo opcionalmente substituído, um radical arila, um radical arila substituído, um radical heterocíclico saturado ou insaturado carregando ou não carregando uma carga catiônica ou aniônica, opcionalmente substituído e/ ou opcionalmente fundido com um anel aromático, de preferência um anel de benzeno, o referido anel aromático sendo opcionalmente substituído, em particular com um ou mais grupos hidroxila ou glicosiloxi, um radical contendo um ou mais átomos de silício ou dois dos substituintes carregados por dois átomos de carbono adjacentes R1 - R2, R2 - R3 ou R3 - R4 formam, juntamente com os átomos de carbono que os transportam, um anel saturado ou insaturado e aromático ou não aromático, compreendendo opcionalmente um ou mais heteroátomos e opcionalmente fundido com um ou mais anéis saturados ou insaturados opcionalmente compreendendo um ou mais heteroátomos. Particularmente, R1 a R4 juntos formam de um a quatro anéis.[098] More particularly, the ortho-diphenol derivative represents a compound of formula (I), or an oligomer thereof, in salified or non-salified form:

wherein in formula (I) the substituents: R1 to R4, which may be identical or different, represent: a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a carboxyl radical; an alkyl or alkoxycarbonyl carboxylate radical, an optionally substituted amino radical, an optionally substituted straight or branched alkyl radical, an optionally substituted straight or branched alkenyl radical, an optionally substituted cycloalkyl radical, an alkoxy radical, an alkoxyalkyl radical, an alkoxyaryl, the aryl group possibly being optionally substituted, an aryl radical, a substituted aryl radical, a saturated or unsaturated heterocyclic radical carrying or not carrying a cationic or anionic charge, optionally substituted and/or optionally fused with an aromatic ring, preferably one benzene ring, said aromatic ring being optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl or glycosyloxy groups, a radical containing one or more silicon atoms or two of the substituents charged by two adjacent carbon atoms R1 - R2, R2 - R3 or R3 - R4 form, together with the carbon atoms that carry them, a saturated or unsaturated and aromatic or non-aromatic ring, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms and optionally fused with one or more saturated or unsaturated rings optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms . Particularly, R1 to R4 together form one to four rings.

[099] A specific embodiment of the invention relates to ortho-diphenol derivatives of formula (I), two adjacent substituents R1 - R2, R2 - R3 or R3 - R4 of which they cannot form, with the carbon atoms that carry them, a pyrrolyl radical. More particularly, R2 and R3 cannot form a pyrrolyl radical fused to the benzene ring containing the two hydroxyls. The ortho-diphenols of use in the invention can be natural or synthetic. Natural ortho-diphenols include those compounds which may be present in nature and which are reproduced by chemical (semi)synthesis.

[100] The salts of the ortho-diphenols of the invention can be acid or base salts. Acids can be mineral or organic. Preferably, the acid is hydrochloric acid, which results in chlorides.

[101] Bases can be mineral or organic. In particular, bases are alkaline hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, which result in sodium salts.

[102] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition(s) comprise(s) as an ingredient one or more synthetic ortho-diphenol derivatives which do not exist in nature.

[103] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, compositions and methods for treating hair, such as relaxing and/or straightening hair, use, as a non-thiol-based agent, one or more natural derivatives of ortho-diphenol.

[104] More particularly, ortho-diphenols that can be used are, in particular: flavanols, such as catechin and epicatechin gallate, flavonols, such as quercetin, anthocyanidins, such as cyanidin, delphinidin or petunidin, anthocyanins or anthocyanins, for example myrtilin, ortho - hydroxybenzoates, for example salts of gallic acid, flavones, such as luteolin, hydroxystilbenes, for example 3,3',4,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene, optionally oxylated (for example glucosylated), 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine and derivatives thereof, 2 ,3-dihydroxyphenylalanine and derivatives thereof, 4,5-dihydroxyphenylalanine and derivatives thereof, dihydroxycinnamates such as caffeic acid and chlorogenic acid, ortho-polyhydroxycoumarins, ortho-polyhydroxyisocoumarins, ortho-polyhydroxycoumarones, ortho-polyhydroxyisocoumarones, ortho-polyhydrochalcones, ortho- polyhydroxychromones, ortho-polyhydroxyquinones, ortho-polyhydroxyxanthones, 1,2-dihydroxybenzene and derivatives thereof, 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene and derivatives thereof, 1,2,3-trihydroxybenzene and derivatives thereof, 2,4,5- trihydroxytoluene and derivatives thereof, proanthocyanidins and especially proanthocyanidins A1, A2, B1, B2, B3 and C1, proanthocyanins, tannic acid, ellagic acid and mixtures of the foregoing compounds.

[105] When the dye precursors have D and L forms, both forms can be used in the compositions according to the invention, as well as racemic mixtures.

[106] According to one embodiment, the natural ortho-diphenols result from extracts from animals, bacteria, fungi, algae or plants, used in whole or in part. In particular with regard to plants, extracts are derived from plants or parts of plants such as fruits, including citrus fruits, vegetables, trees or shrubs. Mixtures of these extracts, which are rich in ortho-diphenols, as defined above, can also be used. Preferably, the natural ortho-diphenols of the invention are derived from plants or parts of plants. Extracts are obtained by extracting various parts of the plant, for example the root, the wood, the bark, the leaf, the flower, the fruit, the seed, the pod or the bark. Mixtures of plant extracts can also be used.

[107] According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the ortho-diphenol derivative(s) are natural extracts rich in ortho-diphenols. According to a preferred form, the ortho-diphenol derivative(s) are natural extracts only. Natural extracts according to the invention can be in the form of powders or liquids. Preferably, the extracts of the invention are provided in powder form.

[108] According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the non-thiol-based reducing compound(s) are chosen from metahydroxyphenol derivatives, also known as resorcinols, with reducing properties. In a manner known per se, the term "resorcinols" denotes compounds comprising at least one aromatic ring, preferably a benzene ring, comprising at least two hydroxyl groups (OH) charged by two carbon atoms which are in the meta position with respect to each other and which also does not comprise any mercapto or disulfide groups.

[109] The aromatic ring may be more particularly a fused aryl or a fused heteroaromatic ring, i.e. optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms, such as benzene, naphthalene, tetrahydronaphthalene, indane, indene, anthracene, phenanthrene, isoindole, indoline, isoindoline, benzofuran, dihydrobenzofuran, dihydrobenzofuran, chroman, isochroman, chromene, isochromene, quinoline, tetrahydroquinoline and isoquinoline, said aromatic ring comprising at least two hydroxyl groups carried by two carbon atoms which are in meta position with respect to each other. Preferably, the aromatic ring of the resorcinol derivatives according to the invention is a benzene ring.

em que na fórmula (II), os substituintes: R1, R2 e R4, que podem ser idênticos ou diferentes, representam: um átomo de hidrogênio, um átomo de halogênio, um radical carboxila, um radical carboxilato de alquila ou alcoxicarbonila, um radical amino opcionalmente substituído, um radical alquila opcionalmente substituído e linear ou ramificado, um radical alquenila opcionalmente substituído e linear ou ramificado, um radical cicloalquila opcionalmente substituído, um radical alquilcarbonila, um radical carboxaldeído, um radical alcoxi, um radical alcoxialquila, um radical alcoxiarila, o grupo arila possivelmente sendo opcionalmente substituído, um radical arilalquilcarbonila do qual o grupo arila, particularmente o grupo fenila, é opcionalmente substituído, preferencialmente por um ou mais grupos hidroxila, um radical arila, um radical arila substituído, um radical heterocíclico saturado ou insaturado, opcionalmente, carregando uma carga catiônica ou aniônica, opcionalmente substituído e/ ou opcionalmente fundido com um anel aromático, de preferência um anel benzeno, o referido anel aromático sendo opcionalmente substituído, em particular por um ou mais grupos hidroxila ou glicosiloxi, ou um radical contendo um ou mais átomos de silício.[110] According to a more particular embodiment of the invention, the reducing compounds not based on thiol present in the composition(s) used according to the invention are chosen from derivatives of metahydroxyphenol of formula (II) and also the organic or mineral acidic or basic salts thereof, and the solvates thereof, such as hydrates:

wherein in formula (II), the substituents: R1, R2 and R4, which may be identical or different, represent: a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a carboxyl radical, an alkyl or alkoxycarbonyl carboxylate radical, a radical optionally substituted amino, an optionally substituted linear or branched alkyl radical, an optionally substituted linear or branched alkenyl radical, an optionally substituted cycloalkyl radical, an alkylcarbonyl radical, a carboxaldehyde radical, an alkoxy radical, an alkoxyalkyl radical, an alkoxyaryl radical, the aryl group possibly being optionally substituted, an arylalkylcarbonyl radical of which the aryl group, particularly the phenyl group, is optionally substituted, preferably by one or more hydroxyl groups, an aryl radical, a substituted aryl radical, a saturated or unsaturated heterocyclic radical, optionally carrying a cationic or anionic charge, optionally substituted and/or optionally fused with an aromatic ring, preferably a benzene ring, said aromatic ring being optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl or glycosyloxy groups, or a radical containing one or more silicon atoms.

[111] R3 represents: a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a carboxyl radical, an alkyl or alkoxycarbonyl carboxylate radical, an optionally substituted amino radical, an optionally substituted linear or branched alkyl radical, a radical linear or branched alkenyl which is optionally substituted, in particular by a phenyl group which is preferably optionally substituted by one or more (di)(alkyl)(C1-C4)amino or hydroxyl groups, an optionally substituted cycloalkyl radical, an alkylcarbonyl radical , a carboxaldehyde radical, an alkoxy radical, an alkoxyalkyl radical, an alkoxyaryl radical, the aryl group possibly being optionally substituted, an aryl radical, a substituted aryl radical, a saturated or unsaturated heterocyclic radical, optionally bearing a cationic or anionic charge, optionally substituted and/or optionally fused with an aromatic ring, preferably a benzene ring, said aromatic ring being optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl or glycosiloxy groups or a radical containing one or more silicon atoms, or two of the substituents charged by two adjacent carbon atoms, R2 - R3 or R3 - R4 forms, together with the carbon atoms that contain them, a saturated or unsaturated non-aromatic ring, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms and optionally fused with one or more saturated rings or unsaturated optionally containing one or more heteroatoms. Particularly, R2 to R4 together form two to four rings.

[112] More particularly, the non-thiol-based reducing compound(s) may be chosen from metahydroxyphenols of formula (II) in which the substituents: R1, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, represent: a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a carboxyl radical, an alkyl or alkoxycarbonyl carboxylate radical, an optionally substituted amino radical, an optionally substituted and linear alkyl radical or branched, a linear or branched alkenyl radical which is optionally substituted, in particular by a phenyl group which is preferably optionally substituted by one or more (di)(C1-C4)alkylamino or hydroxyl groups, an alkylcarbonyl radical, a carboxaldehyde radical, an alkoxy radical and/or R2 represents: a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a carboxyl radical, an alkyl or alkoxycarbonyl carboxylate radical, an optionally substituted amino radical, a phenylalkylcarbonyl radical of which the phenyl group is optionally substituted, preferably by one or more hydroxyl groups, an optionally substituted and linear or branched alkyl radical, an optionally substituted and linear or branched alkenyl radical, an alkylcarbonyl radical, a carboxaldehyde radical, an alkoxy radical.

[113] More particularly, the substituent R2 in formula (II) represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group (C1-C6), preferably a hydrogen atom.

[114] According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the non-thiol-based reducing compound(s) can be chosen from the resorcinol derivatives of formula (II) , and also organic or mineral acidic or basic salts and solvates thereof, such as hydrates: in which R1 to R4, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom or a group chosen from: - optionally substituted (C1-C10) alkyl, in particular optionally substituted by at least one hydroxyl radical; - optionally substituted (C2-C10) alkenyl, in particular optionally substituted by at least one aryl group, such as a phenyl group optionally substituted by one or more (di)(C1-C4)alkylamino or hydroxyl groups; - alkoxy (C1-C10); - carboxy -C(O)-OH or carboxylate -C(O)-O, M+; with M+ representing a cationic counterion, such as an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal or an ammonium; - ester -C(O)-O-R5 or -O-C(O)-R5, with R5 representing an alkyl group (C1-C10), particularly -C(O)-O-R5; - starch -C(O)-NR6R7 or -NR6-C(O)-R7 with R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group (C1-C10), particularly -C( O)-NH2; - (C1-C10) alkylcarbonyl; - hydroxyl; and - amino -NR8R9, with R8 and R9, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group (C1-C10), particularly -NH2.

[115] In particular, in formula (II), R1, R2 and R4 represent a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted (C1-C6) alkyl group, preferably hydrogen, and/or R3 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group (C1-C6) or straight or branched (C2-C6) alkenyl, such as ethenyl, optionally substituted by an aryl group, such as a phenyl group, which is optionally substituted, preferably with one or more (di)(alkyl)(C1- C4)amino or hydroxyl groups.

[116] More preferably, the non-thiol-based reducing compounds present in the composition(s) used according to the invention are chosen from the resorcinol derivatives of formula (II), in which R1, R2 and R4 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group (C1C4), preferably hydrogen, and R3 represents a hydrogen atom or an Ar-CH=CH- group with Ar representing an aryl group, in particular a phenyl group, said aryl group optionally substituted, preferably by one or more hydroxyl groups; in particular, said hydroxyl group(s) are substituted in the ortho or para position with respect to the phenyl group.

[117] Preferably, the metahydroxyphenols according to the invention do not comprise two hydroxyl groups supported by two adjacent carbons.

[118] The metahydroxyphenols of the invention can be natural or synthetic. Among the natural meta-hydroxyphenols are included compounds that may be present in nature and that are reproduced by chemical (semi)synthesis. The salts of the metahydroxyphenols of the invention can be acid or base salts. Acids can be mineral or organic. Preferably, the acid is hydrochloric acid, which results in chlorides. Bases can be mineral or organic. In particular, bases are alkaline hydroxides, such as sodium hydroxide, which result in sodium salts.

[119] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises, as ingredient a), one or more synthetic metahydroxyphenol derivatives which do not exist in nature.

[120] According to one embodiment, the natural metahydroxyphenols are derived from extracts of animals, bacteria, fungi, algae, plants and fruits, used in whole or in part. Particularly with regard to plants, the extracts are derived from fruits, including citrus fruits, from vegetables, from trees and from shrubs. Use can also be made of mixtures of these extracts, which are rich in metahydroxyphenols, as defined above.

[121] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the non-thiol-based reducing compound(s) may be chosen from parahydroxyphenol derivatives with reducing properties . In a manner known per se, the term "para-hydroxyphenol" denotes compounds comprising at least one aromatic ring, preferably a benzene ring, comprising at least two hydroxyl groups (OH) charged by two adjacent carbon atoms which are in the position to each other and which also do not comprise mercapto or disulfide groups.

em que na fórmula (III) R1 a R4, que podem ser idênticos ou diferentes, são como definidos anteriormente para as fórmulas (I) e (II) e representam preferencialmente um átomo de hidrogênio ou um grupo alquila (C1C4) opcionalmente substituído, de preferência hidrogênio.[122] According to a more particular embodiment of the invention, the thiol-based reducing compound(s) can be chosen from the parahydroxyphenol derivatives of the formula (III), and also organic or mineral acidic or basic salts, and solvates thereof, such as hydrates:

wherein in formula (III) R1 to R4, which may be identical or different, are as previously defined for formulas (I) and (II) and preferably represent a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted (C1C4) alkyl group, of hydrogen preference.

[123] Preferably, the non-thiol-based agent(s) are chosen from catechol, gallic acid, parahydroxyphenol, or resveratrol, it being understood that when the aromatic ring of ortho-diphenols, meta - hydroxyphenols or parahydroxyphenols bear more than two hydroxyl groups (eg three, four, etc.), the compounds are to be understood according to the following rule.

[124] If three hydroxyl groups are adjacent on the aromatic ring: (positions 1, 2, 3 for example), then said non-thiol-based reducing compound will be considered to be an ortho-diphenol. If there are three hydroxyl groups, two of which are adjacent to the aromatic ring and one opposite (positions 1, 2, 4 or 1, 2, 5), said non-thiol-based reducing agent is considered to be a para-hydroxyphenol. If there are three hydroxyl groups, none of which are adjacent (positions 1, 3, 5), then said non-thiol-based reducing compound will be considered a meta-hydroxyphenol.

[125] Non-thiol-based reducing agents can also be chosen from phosphines. As examples of phosphines, mention may be made of monophosphines or diphosphines, as described in series FR 2 870 119.

[126] The at least one reducing agent can be employed in the hair care compositions of the present disclosure in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about from about 16% by weight, more preferably from about 1% to about 14% by weight, or from about 3% to about 14% by weight, most preferably from about 1% to about 12% by weight, or from about 2% to about 11% by weight, or from about 3% to about 11% by weight, or from about 4% to about 11% by weight, or from about 5% to about of 11% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all intervals and subintervals therebetween.

[127] In certain embodiments, the at least one reducing agent is thiolactic acid and/or salts thereof or a mixture thereof and is employed in the composition of the present disclosure in an amount of about 1%, 1.25% , 1.5%, 1.75%, 2%, 2.25%, 2.5%, 2.75%, 3%, 3.25%, 3.5%, 3.75%, 4%, 4.25%, 4.5%, 4.75%, 5%, 5.25%, 5.5%, 5.75%, 6%, 6.25%, 6.5%, 6.75% , 7%, 7.25%, 7.5%, 7.75%, 8%, 8.25%, 8.5%, 8.75%, 9%, 9.5%, 10%, 10, 5%, 11%, 11.5%, 12%, 13% or 14% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

DISULFIDE COMPOUND

[128] The hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure include at least one disulfide compound selected from dithioglycolic acid, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples include dithioglycolic acid, diammonium dithiodiglycolate and mixtures thereof. In some cases, hair care compositions include at least diammonium dithiodiglycolate.

[129] The total amount of disulfide compound(s) in the hair care compositions can be in an amount of from 0.01% to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 8% by weight, most preferably from about 0.2% to about 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair care compositions, including all intervals and subintervals between them.

[130] In certain embodiments, the total amount of disulfide compound(s) in the hair care compositions can be in an amount of about 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4 %, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2, 5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5% , 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4 .6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5%, 5.5%, 6%, 6.5%, 7%, 7.5% or 8%, by weight, by relative to the total weight of the composition. NON-POLYMERIC AND NON-THIOL MONO-, DI-, TRICARBOXYLIC ACID.

[131] The hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure include at least one non-polymeric non-thiol mono-, di- and/or tricarboxylic acid, and/or salts thereof, or a mixture thereof. In one embodiment, the non-polymeric mono, di and tricarboxylic acids have a molecular weight of less than about 500 g/mol, preferably less than about 400 g/mol, and even more preferably less than about 300 g/mol. .

[132] In one embodiment, the hair care compositions include at least one monocarboxylic acid. For example, hair care compositions can include at least one monocarboxylic acid selected from lactic acid, formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, entactic acid, caprylic acid, pelargonic acid, capric acid, undecyl acid, lauric acid, tridecyl acid, myristic acid, pentadecyl acid, palmitic acid, margaric acid, stearic acid, nonadecyl acid, arachidic acid, lactic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof. In some cases, lactic acid and/or a salt thereof is a preferred monocarboxylic acid.

[133] In one embodiment, the hair care compositions include at least one dicarboxylic acid. For example, hair care compositions can include at least one dicarboxylic acid selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof. In some cases, malic acid, glutaric acid, a salt thereof or a mixture thereof are preferred dicarboxylic acids.

[134] In one embodiment, the hair care compositions include at least one tricarboxylic acid. For example, the hair care compositions can include at least one tricarboxylic acid selected from citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitric acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, benzene-1,3,5-tricarboxylic acid , a salt thereof and a mixture thereof. In some cases, citric acid and/or a salt thereof are preferred tricarboxylic acids.

[135] In one embodiment, the hair treatment compositions include at least two non-polymeric, non-thiol mono-, di- and/or tricarboxylic acids, and/or salts thereof. The at least two non-polymeric non-thiol mono-, di- and/or tricarboxylic acids may be, for example, any two or more of those listed above. In one embodiment, the hair care compositions include at least two dicarboxylic acids and/or salts thereof. For example, the at least two dicarboxylic acids and/or salts thereof can be selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof; preferably the at least two dicarboxylic acids include glutaric acid, malic acid and/or salts thereof.

[136] In one embodiment, the hair treatment compositions include at least one monocarboxylic acid and/or salts thereof and at least one dicarboxylic acid and/or salts thereof. For example, the at least one monocarboxylic acid and/or salts thereof can be selected from lactic acid, formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, entactic acid, caprylic acid, pelargonic acid , capric acid, undecyl acid, lauric acid, tridecyl acid, myristic acid, pentadecyl acid, palmitic acid, margaric acid, stearic acid, nonadecyl acid, arachidic acid, lactic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof, and hair at least one dicarboxylic acid and/or salts thereof may be selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof; preferably, the at least one monocarboxylic acid includes lactic acid and/or salts thereof, and the at least one dicarboxylic acid includes glutaric acid, malic acid and/or salts thereof.

[137] In one embodiment, the hair treatment compositions include at least one tricarboxylic acid and/or salts thereof and at least one dicarboxylic acid and/or salts thereof. For example, the at least one tricarboxylic acid and/or salts thereof can be selected from citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitric acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, benzene-1,3,5-acid tricarboxylic acid, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof, and the at least one dicarboxylic acid and/or salts thereof may be selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof; preferably the at least one tricarboxylic acid includes citric acid and/or salts thereof, and the at least one dicarboxylic acid includes glutaric acid, malic acid and/or salts thereof.

[138] In one embodiment, the hair treatment compositions include at least one tricarboxylic acid and/or salts thereof and at least one monocarboxylic acid and/or salts thereof. For example, at least one tricarboxylic acid and/or salts thereof can be selected from citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitric acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, benzene-1,3,5-tricarboxylic acid , a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof, and the at least one monocarboxylic acid and/or salts thereof may be selected from lactic acid, formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, entactic acid, caprylic acid, pelargonic acid, capric acid, undecyl acid, lauric acid, tridecyl acid, myristic acid, pentadecyl acid, palmitic acid, margaric acid, stearic acid, nonadecyl acid, arachidic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof; preferably the at least one monocarboxylic acid includes lactic acid and/or salts thereof, and the at least one dicarboxylic acid includes glutaric acid, malic acid and/or salts thereof.

[139] In certain embodiments, the total amount of the at least one non-polymeric, non-thiol mono-, di-, and tricarboxylic acid and/or salts thereof, or a mixture thereof, in the hair care compositions is about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 1% to about 12% by weight, even more preferably from about from 2% to about 11% by weight, and even more preferably from about 3% to about 10% by weight, and most preferably from about 5% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition for hair treatment.

[140] In certain embodiments, the at least one non-polymeric, non-thiol mono-, di- and tricarboxylic acids and/or salts thereof or a mixture thereof can be employed in the hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure in an amount of about 0.1%, 0.5%, 1%, 1.5%, 2%, 2.5%, 3%, 3.5%, 4%, 4.5%, 5%, 5.5%, 6%, 6.5%, 7%, 7.5%, 8%, 8.5%, 9%, 9.5%, 10%, 10.5%, 11%, 11, 5%, 12%, 12.5%, 13%, 13.5%, 14%, 14.5%, 15%, 15.5%, 16%, 16.5%, 17%, 17.5% , 18%, 18.5%, 19%, 19.5% or 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair care composition.

CATIONIC SURFACTANT

[141] The hair care compositions according to the present disclosure include at least one cationic surfactant.

[142] Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants useful in the disclosure include, for example, optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary, or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

na qual: os grupos R8 a R11, que podem ser idênticos ou diferentes, representam um grupo alifático linear ou ramificado contendo de 1 a 30 átomos de carbono, ou um grupo aromático tal como arila ou alquilarila, pelo menos um dos grupos R8 a R11 contendo de 8 a 30 átomos de carbono e de preferência de 12 a 24 átomos de carbono; sendo possível para os grupos alifáticos compreendam heteroátomos como, em particular, oxigênio, nitrogênio, enxofre ou halogênios; Os grupos alifáticos são escolhidos, por exemplo, a partir de grupos alquila C1-C30, alcoxi C1-C30, polioxialquileno (C2-C6), alquilamida C1-C30, alquila (C12-C22) alquilamido (C2-C6), acetato de alquila (C12-C22) e hidroxialquila C1-C30.[143] Quaternary ammonium salts useful in the disclosure include, for example:

in which: the groups R8 to R11, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to R11 containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; it being possible for the aliphatic groups to comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogens; Aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (C12-C22) alkylamido (C2-C6), (C12-C22) alkyl and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl.

[144] X- is an anion chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates (C1-C4), alkylsulfonates (C1-C4) and alkylarylsulfonates (C1-C4).

na qual R12 representa um grupo alquenila ou alquila compreendendo de 8 a 30 átomos de carbono, por exemplo, derivados de ácidos graxos do sebo; R13 representa um átomo de hidrogênio, um grupo alquila C1-C4 ou um grupo alquenila ou alquila compreendendo de 8 a 30 átomos de carbono; R14 representa um grupo alquila C1-C4; R15 representa um átomo de hidrogênio ou um grupo alquila C1-C4; X- é um ânion escolhido a partir de halogenetos, fosfatos, acetatos, lactatos, alquilsulfatos (C1-C4), alquilsulfonatos (C1-C4) e alquilarilsulfonatos (C1- C4); R12 e R13 preferencialmente denotam uma mistura de grupos alquenila ou alquila contendo de 12 a 21 átomos de carbono, por exemplo, derivados de ácidos graxos de sebo, R14 indica um grupo metila e R15 indica um átomo de hidrogênio. Um produto deste tipo é vendido, por exemplo, sob o nome Rewoquat® W 75 pela empresa Rewo,

na qual R16 denota um grupo alquila contendo aproximadamente de 16 a 30 átomos de carbono, que é opcionalmente hidroxilado e/ ou interrompido por um ou mais átomos de oxigênio, R17 é escolhido a partir de hidrogênio ou um grupo alquila contendo de 1 a 4 átomos de carbono ou um grupo -(CH2)3- N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a); R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 e R21, que podem ser idênticos ou diferentes, são escolhidos a partir de hidrogênio e um grupo alquila compreendendo de 1 a 4 átomos de carbono; e X- é um ânion escolhido a partir de halogenetos, acetatos, fosfatos, nitratos, alquilsulfatos (C1-C4), alquilsulfonatos (C1-C4) e alquilarilsulfonatos (C1C4), em particular sulfato de metila e sulfato de etila.[145] Among the quaternary ammonium salts having the formula (Ia), preference is given to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, particularly behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, or secondly, to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)-ammonium chloride, which is sold under the name Cerapyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk, quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline with the formula (lla):

in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids; R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group; R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group; X- is an anion chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates (C1-C4), alkylsulfonates (C1-C4) and alkylarylsulfonates (C1-C4); R12 and R13 preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 indicates a methyl group and R15 indicates a hydrogen atom. A product of this type is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo,

in which R16 denotes an alkyl group containing approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 atoms carbon or a -(CH2)3-N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a) group; R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and X- is an anion chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl sulfates (C1-C4), alkylsulfonates (C1-C4) and alkylarylsulfonates (C1C4), in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

na qual: R22 é escolhido a partir de grupos alquila C1-C6 e grupos hidroxialquila C1-C6 ou dihidroxialquila C1-C6; R23 é escolhido a partir do grupo R26-C(=O)-; grupos C1-C22 lineares ou ramificados, saturados ou insaturados à base de hidrocarbonetos R27; e um átomo de hidrogênio; R25 é escolhido a partir do grupo R28-C(=O)-; grupos C1-C6 lineares ou ramificados, saturados ou insaturados à base de hidrocarbonetos R29; e um átomo de hidrogênio; R24, R26 e R28, que podem ser idênticos ou diferentes, são escolhidos a partir de grupos à base de hidrocarbonetos C7-C21 lineares ou ramificados, saturados ou insaturados; r, s e t, que podem ser idênticos ou diferentes, são números inteiros que variam de 2 a 6; r1 e t1, que podem ser idênticos ou diferentes, são iguais a 0 ou 1; r2 + r1 = 2 r e t1 + t2 = 2 t; y é um número inteiro que varia de 1 a 10; x e z, que podem ser idênticos ou diferentes, são números inteiros que variam de 0 a 10; X- é um ânion simples ou complexo, orgânico ou mineral; com a condição de que a soma x + y + z é de 1 a 15, que quando x é 0, então R23 indica R27 e que quando z é 0, R25 indica R29.[146] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat® CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat® CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75), - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions with the following formula (IVa):

in which: R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or C1-C6 dihydroxyalkyl groups; R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=O)-; C1-C22 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated groups based on hydrocarbons R27; and a hydrogen atom; R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=O)-; C1-C6 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated groups based on hydrocarbons R29; and a hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from groups based on linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbons; r, set, which can be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; r1 and t1, which can be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1; r2 + r1 = 2 r and t1 + t2 = 2 t; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10; x and z, which can be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or mineral; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, then R23 indicates R27 and that when z is 0, R25 indicates R29.

[147] R22 alkyl groups can be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[148] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

[149] When R23 is a hydrocarbon group R27, it can be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or it can be short and can have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[150] When R25 is a hydrocarbon group, R29 preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[151] Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or C1-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[152] Preferably, x and z, which can be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, which can be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3 , and even more particularly are equal to 2.

[153] The anion X- is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, an alkyl sulfate (C1-C4), alkyl sulfonate (C1-C4) or alkylaryl sulfonate (C1-C4). However, it is possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium comprising an ester function.

[154] The X- anion is more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.

[155] Use is made more particularly, in the composition according to the disclosure, of ammonium salts with formula (IVb) in which: - R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, - x and y are equal to 1, - z is equal to 0 or 1, - r, s and t are equal to 2, - R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=O)-; methyl groups, ethyl groups or C14-C22 groups based on hydrocarbons; and a hydrogen atom, - R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=O)-; and a hydrogen atom, - R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from C13 alkyl and alkenyl groups -C17 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[156] Hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.

[157] Among the compounds of formula (IVb), examples that may be mentioned include salts, in particular diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium methyl chloride or sulfate, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylmethyl and monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. Acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a vegetable oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups can be identical or different.

[158] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or fatty acid mixtures of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters . This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names Dehyquart® by the Henkel company, Stepanquat® by the Stepan company, Noxamium® by the Ceca company or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the Rewo-Witco company.

[159] The composition according to the disclosure may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. It is also possible to make use of ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180. Use can also be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, sold by company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131.

[160] Preferably, ammonium salts that contain at least one ester function.

[161] Preferably, the cationic surfactants are chosen from cetrimonium chloride (cetyltrimethylammonium salt), behentrimonium chloride (behenyltrimethylammonium salt), behentrimonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

[162] The composition according to the disclosure may comprise the cationic surfactant in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.2% to about 13%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 12% by weight, and even more preferably from about 1% to about 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. In a specific embodiment, the amount of the at least one cationic surfactant is about 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0 .7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.5%, 2%, 2.5%, 3%, 3.5%, 4%, 4.5% or 5%, 5 .5%, 6%, 6.5%, 7%, 7.5%, 8%, 8.5%, 9%, 9.5% or 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

NONIONIC SURFACTANT

[163] In one embodiment, the hair care compositions of the present disclosure include at least one nonionic surfactant, for example, at least one nonionic surfactant selected from fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl( ether), alkylpolyglucosides, alkanolamides of fatty acids and mixtures thereof.

FATTY ALCOHOL

[164] Fatty alcohols correspond to branched, saturated/unsaturated linear fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 60 carbon atoms and preferably correspond to the formula R-OH, where R is a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical , straight or branched, comprising 6 to 60 carbon atoms, or from 10 to 50 carbon atoms, or from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, or from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more OH groups.

[165] Saturated fatty alcohols may be branched and may be in liquid form. They can optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.

[166] Unsaturated fatty alcohols exhibit, in their structure, at least one double or triple bond and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them and they can be conjugated or unconjugated. These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched. They can optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.

[167] Liquid fatty alcohols may be selected, for example, from octyldodecanol, 2-butylethanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[168] The fatty alcohols of the disclosure may be in solid form and may be non-oxyalkylenated and/or non-glycerolated. These fatty alcohols can be constituents of animal or plant waxes.

[169] The solid fatty alcohol can represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol can coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product. An example of such a commercial product is cetearyl alcohol, a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, commercially available under the trade name LANETTE-O from the BASF company. Cetyl alcohol may also be commercially available under the trade name LANETTE 16 from the BASF company.

[170] In one embodiment, the solid fatty alcohols of the present disclosure can be chosen from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, octyldodecanol, 2-butyl octanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[171] Other suitable examples of the solid fatty alcohol of the present disclosure include solid branched fatty alcohols chosen from 2-dodecyl-hexadecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-octadecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-eicosanol, 2-hexadecyl-1-octadecanol and 2-hexadecyl-1-eicosanol and mixtures thereof.

[172] In the embodiment of the present disclosure, the fatty alcohol comprises cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.

[173] In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

Alkoxylated fatty alcohols

[174] “Alkoxylated fatty alcohol”, as used herein, means a compound that has at least one fatty moiety (8 carbon atoms or more) and at least one alkoxylated moiety (-(CH2)nO-, where n is a integer from 1 to 5, preferably 2 to 3). According to particularly preferred embodiments, the alkoxylated fatty alcohols of the present disclosure can be used as non-ionic surfactants, if desired. In this regard, the alkoxylated fatty alcohols of the present disclosure preferably have an HLB value (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) of 1 to 20, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, with HLB values ranging from 1 to 5 (particularly 3 to 5) or 15 to 20 (particularly 16 to 18) being most preferred. Preferably, the alkoxylated fatty alcohol is chosen from ethoxylated fatty alcohols, propoxylated fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

[175] Preferably, the alkoxylated fatty alcohol may be chosen from dialkyl, trialkyl and combinations of dialkyl and trialkyl substituted ethoxylated polymers. They may also be chosen from monoalkyl, dialkyl, trialkyl, tetraalkyl substituted alkyl ethoxylated polymers and all combinations thereof. The alkyl group may be saturated or unsaturated, branched or straight, and contain a number of carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 carbon atoms to about 50 carbon atoms, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, for example, 20 to 40 carbon atoms, 22 to 24 carbon atoms, 30 to 50 carbon atoms, and 40 to 60 carbon atoms. More preferably, the grease portion contains a mixture of compounds of varying carbon atoms, such as, for example, C20-C40 compounds, C22-C24 compounds, C30-C50 compounds, and C40-C60 compounds.

[176] Preferably, the alkoxylated portion of the alkoxylated fatty alcohols of the present disclosure contains 2 or more alkoxylation units, preferably 10 to 200 alkoxylation units, preferably 20 to 150 alkoxylation units, and most preferably 25 to 100 alkoxylation units , including all intervals and subintervals between them. Also preferably, the alkoxylation units contain 2 carbon atoms (ethoxylation units) and/or 3 carbon atoms (propoxylation units).

[177] The amount of alkoxylation can also be determined by the weight percentage of the alkoxylated portion relative to the total weight of the compound. Suitable weight percentages of the alkoxylated portion relative to the total weight of the compound include, but are not limited to, 10 percent to 95 percent, preferably 20 percent to 90 percent, including all ranges and subranges between 75 percent and 90 percent (particularly 80 percent to 90 percent) or 20 percent to 50 percent being particularly preferred.

[178] Preferably, the alkoxylated fatty alcohols of the present disclosure have a number average molecular weight (Mn) greater than 500, preferably from 500 to 5,000, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, such as, for example, Mn from 500 to 1250 or a Mn from 2,000 to 5,000.

[179] Suitable examples of alkoxylated fatty alcohols include: laureth-3, laureth-7, laureth-9, laureth-12, laureth-23, ceteth-10, ceteth-33, steareth-10, steareth-2, steareth-20 , steareth-100, beheneth-5, beheneth-5, beheneth-10, oleth-10, Pareth alcohols, trideceth-10, trideceth-12, C12-13 pareth-3, C12-13 pareth-23, C11-15 pareth -7, PPG-5 ceteth-20, propylene glycol oleate PEG-55, glycereth-26 (glyceryl ether PEG-26), methyl glucose dioleate PEG 120, methyl glucose trioleate PEG 120, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate PEG 150 and mixtures thereof. Alkyl Phosphates (Ether)

[180] Suitable alkyl(ether) phosphates include, but are not limited to, alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters and alkyl phosphate esters corresponding to a monoester of formula (I) and salts thereof: RO [CH2O]u [(CH2 )xCH(R')(CH2)y(CH2)zO]v [CH2CH2O]w-PO-(OH)2 Formula (I); a diester corresponding to formula (II) and its salts: {RO [CH2O]u [(CH2)xCH(R')(CH2)y(CH2)zO]v [CH2CH2O]w}2PO-(OH) Formula ( II); a triester corresponding to formula (III): {RO [CH2O]u [(CH2)xCH(R')(CH2)y(CH2)zO]v [CH2CH2O]w}3PO Formula 3 (III); and combinations thereof, wherein: R is a hydrocarbon radical containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms; u, v and w, independently of one another, represent numbers from 0 to 60; x, y and z, independently of one another, represent numbers from 0 to 13; R' represents hydrogen, alkyl, being the sum of x + y + z > 0. The numbers u, v and w represent the degree of alkoxylation. While, on a molecular level, the numbers u, v, and w and the total degree of alkoxylation can only be whole numbers, including zero, on a macroscopic level, they are average values in the form of broken numbers.

[181] In formulas (I), (II) and (III), R is linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a C6-40 alkyl or alkenyl group linear or branched acyclic or a C1-40 alkylphenyl group, more particularly a C8-22 alkyl or alkenyl group or a C4-18 alkylphenyl group, more preferably a C12-18 alkyl or alkenyl group or a C6-16 alkylphenyl group; u, v, w, independently of one another, is preferably a number from 2 to 20, more preferably a number from 3 to 17 and most preferably a number from 5 to 15; x, y, z, independently of one another, is preferably a number from 2 to 13, more preferably a number from 1 to 10 and most preferably a number from 0 to 8.

[182] In general, the fewer the number of carbon atoms in the R group of phosphate esters, the more irritating to the skin and the less soluble in water the phosphate ester becomes. On the other hand, the greater the number of carbon atoms in the R group, the smoother the skin and the thicker and waxier the resulting product becomes. So, for best results, R should have 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[183] Particularly preferred alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters for use in the present disclosure are PPG-5-Ceteth-10 Phosphate (CRODAFOS SG(R)), Oleth-3 Phosphate (CRODAFOS N3 Acid), Oleth Phosphate -10 (CRODAFOS N10 acid) and a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Diacetyl phosphate (CRODAFOS CES), all sold by Croda. Particularly preferred alkyl phosphate esters are cetyl phosphate (Hostaphat CC 100), stearyl phosphate (Hostaphat CS 120) from Clariant.

[184] In one embodiment, the alkyl(ether) phosphates are chosen from PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of Ceteth-10 Phosphate and Dicetyl Phosphate, Dicetyl Phosphate, Cetyl Phosphate, Stearyl Phosphate and mixtures thereof.

ALKYLPOLYGLYCOSIDES

em que: - R1 representa um radical alquila ou alquenila linear ou ramificado compreendendo 6 a 24 átomos de carbono e especialmente 8 a 18 átomos de carbono, ou um radical alquilfenila cujo radical alquila linear ou ramificado compreende 6 a 24 átomos de carbono e especialmente 8 a 18 átomos de carbono; - R2 representa um radical alquileno compreendendo 2 a 4 átomos de carbono, - G representa uma unidade de açúcar compreendendo 5 a 6 átomos de carbono, - t indica um valor que varia de 0 a 10 e, de preferência, de 0 a 4, - v indica um valor que varia de 1 a 15 e, de preferência, 1 a 4.[185] Alkyl(poly)glucoside (alkylpolyglucoside) is especially represented by the following general formula:

wherein: - R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms; - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms, - t indicates a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4, - v indicates a value ranging from 1 to 15, and preferably 1 to 4.

[186] Preferably, the alkylpolyglucosides surfactants are compounds of the formula described above, in which: - R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, - t indicates a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0, - G indicates glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose; - the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.

[187] Glucosidic linkages between sugar units are usually of the 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. 1,4 C8/C16 alkyl(poly)glycosides and especially decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides are most particularly preferred.

[188] Among commercial products, mention may be made of products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS/ U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, or the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AG10 LK.

[189] Preferably, use is made of 1,4 C8/C16 alkyl(poly)glucosides, especially as a 53% aqueous solution, such as those sold by Cognis under the reference number Plantacare® 818 UP.

[190] In one embodiment, the alkylpolyglucoside is chosen from decyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, coco glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, decyl lauryl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

FATTY ACID ALKANOLAMIDES

[191] Suitable fatty acid alkanolamides include those formed by reaction of an alkanolamine and a C6-C36 fatty acid. Such surfactants can be chosen from mono-alkanolamides and di-alkanolamides of C6-C36 fatty acids and, preferably, from mono-alkanolamides and di-alkanolamides of C8-C30 fatty acids or from C8-C24 fatty acids, and can have a C2-3 hydroxyalkyl group. Examples thereof include, but are not limited to: oleic acid diethanolamide, oleic acid monoisopropanolamide, myristic acid monoethanolamide, soy fatty acid diethanolamide, stearic acid ethanolamide, linoleic acid diethanolamide, behenic acid monoethanolamide, isostearic acid, erucic acid diethanolamide, ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide, coconut isopropanolamide (INCI name: Cocamide MIPA), coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide (INCI name: Cocamide MEA), coconut fatty acid diethanolamide, coconut fatty acid diethanolamide palm kernel, lauric monoethanolamide, lauric diethanolamide, polyoxyethylene lauric isopropanolamide coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide and mixtures thereof.

[192] In one embodiment, the fatty acid alkanolamide is chosen from Cocamide MIPA, Cocamide MEA (Coco Monoethanolamide) and mixtures thereof.

[193] In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyl decanol, palmethyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleyl (or oleyl) alcohol, linoleyl (or linoleyl) alcohol, linolenic (or linolenyl) alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, and more preferably alcohol cetyl, stearyl and cetearyl alcohol, PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate, phosphate dicetyl, cetyl phosphate, stearyl phosphate, laureth-7, laureth-9, trideceth-10, trideceth-12, C12-13 pareth-3, C12-13 pareth-23, C11-15 pareth-7, PPG- 5 ceteth-20, propylene glycol PEG-55 oleate, glycereth-26, decyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, decyl lauryl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, coco glucoside, cocamide MIPA, and mixtures thereof.

[194] The at least one non-ionic surfactant is present in the hair care compositions of the present disclosure in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 12% by weight, or most preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subintervals between them.

[195] In a specific embodiment, the total amount of nonionic surfactants is about 1%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2 %, 2, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3 .0%, 3.5%, 4%, 4.5%, 5%, 5.5%, 6%, 6.5%, 7%, 7.5%, 8%, 8.5%, 9 %, 9.5% or 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

THICKENING AGENT

[196] In some embodiments of the present disclosure, hair care compositions include at least one thickening agent (also known as thickeners or viscosity modifying agents). Non-limiting examples of thickening agents include xanthan gum, guar gum, biosaccharide gum, cellulose, gum arabic, senecic gum, sclerotia gum, agarose, pectin, gellan gum, hyaluronic acid. In addition, the one or more thickeners may include polymeric thickeners selected from ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamide, carbomer and crosslinked polymer of acrylates/C10-alkyl acrylate 30. In some cases, the thickening agent includes polyacryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate and/or sodium polyacrylate.

[197] Many thickening agents are water soluble and increase the viscosity of water or form an aqueous gel when the hair care composition of the disclosure is dispersed/dissolved in water. The aqueous solution can be heated and cooled, or neutralized, to form the gel, if necessary. The thickener can be dispersed/dissolved in an aqueous solvent which is soluble in water, for example ethyl alcohol when it is dispersed/dissolved in water. Non-limiting examples of various types of thickeners include: a. Carboxylic Acid Polymers These polymers are crosslinked compounds containing one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of these acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids, wherein the crosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds and It is derived from a polyhydric alcohol.

[198] Examples of commercially available carboxylic acid polymers useful herein include the carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid cross-linked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerythritol. Carbomers are available as the Carbopol 900 series from B.F. Goodrich (e.g. Carbopol® 954). In addition, other suitable polymeric carboxylic acid agents include Ultrez® 10 (B.F. Goodrich) and copolymers of C10-30 alkyl acrylates with one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or one of its short chain esters (C1-alcohol 4), wherein the crosslinking agent is an allyl ether of sucrose or pentaerythritol. These copolymers are known as acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymers and are commercially available as Carbopol 1342, Carbopol® 1382, Pemulen TR-1 and Pemulen TR-2, from B.F. Goodrich. In other words, examples of carboxylic acid polymer thickeners useful herein are those selected from carbomers, acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymers and mixtures thereof.

[199] b. Crosslinked Polyacrylate Polymers.

[200] The hair care compositions of the present disclosure may optionally contain cross-linked polyacrylate polymers useful as thickeners or gelling agents, including cationic and non-ionic polymers. Examples of useful cross-linked nonionic polyacrylate polymers and useful cross-linked cationic polyacrylate polymers are those described in U.S. Patent No. 5,100,660, US Patent No. 4,849,484, US Patent No. 4,835,206, US Patent No. 4,628,078, US Patent No. 4,599,379 and EP 228,868, which are all incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

[201] c. Polyacrylamide polymers.

[202] The hair care compositions of the present disclosure may optionally contain polyacrylamide polymers, especially non-ionic polyacrylamide polymers, including substituted branched or unbranched polymers. Among these polyacrylamide polymers is the nonionic polymer, given the designation CTFA polyacrylamide and isoparaffin and laureth-7, available under the tradename Sepigel 305 from Seppic Corporation.

[203] Other polyacrylamide polymers useful herein include multi-block copolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids. Commercially available examples of such multi-block copolymers include Hypan SR150H, SS500V, SS500W, SSSA100H, from Lipo Chemicals, Inc.

[204] Hair care compositions may also contain thickening and texturizing gels of the sort, as exemplified by the United Guardian's line of products called Lubrajel®. These gels have moisturizing, viscosifying and stabilizing properties.

[205] d. Polysaccharides.

[206] A wide variety of polysaccharides can be useful here. “Polysaccharides” refers to gelling agents that contain a backbone of repeating sugar units (i.e. carbohydrates). Non-limiting examples of polysaccharide gelling agents include those selected from cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethylethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose sodium sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Also useful herein are alkyl-substituted celluloses. Preferred among the alkyl hydroxyalkyl cellulose ethers is the material given the designation CTFA cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, which is the ether of cetyl alcohol and hydroxyethylcellulose. This material is sold under the tradename Natrosol® CS Plus by Aqualon Corporation.

[207] Other useful polysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of glucose units (1-3) linked with a glucose unit linked (1-6) every third unit, a commercially available example of which is Michel Mercier's Clearogel™ CS11 Products Inc. In some cases, a mixture of sclerotia gum and xanthan gum is particularly helpful.

[208] e. Gums.

[209] Other thickening and gelling agents useful herein include materials derived primarily from natural sources. Non-limiting examples of such gelling agent gums include Arabica, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, algae (kelp), locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotia gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran , sodium carrageenan, gum tragacanth, xanthan gum, biosaccharide gum and mixtures thereof. In some cases, a mixture of sclerotia gum and xanthan gum is particularly helpful.

[210] Additional examples of water-soluble thickeners include natural water-soluble polymers, synthetic water-soluble polymers, clay minerals, and silicic anhydride. Non-limiting examples of natural water-soluble polymers include gum arabic, gum tragacanth, gum karaya, guar gum, gellan gum, tara gum, locust bean gum, tamarind gum, sodium alginate, alginic acid propylene glycol ester, carrageenan, farcelluran, agar, high methoxy pectin, low methoxy pectin, xanthine, chitosan, starch (e.g. starch derived from corn, potato, wheat, rice, sweet potato and tapioca, a-starch, soluble starch), fermentation polysaccharide (e.g. e.g. xanthan gum, pullulan, carcyran, dextran), acidic hetero-polysaccharide derived from plant calluses belonging to Polyantes sp. (eg, tuberous polysaccharide), proteins (eg, sodium casein, gelatin, albumin), chondroitin sulfate, and hyaluronic acid.

[211] Non-limiting examples of water-soluble synthetic polymers include polyvinyl alcohol, sodium polyacrylate, sodium polymethacrylate, polyacrylic acid glycerin ester, carboxyvinyl polymer, polyacrylamide, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyvinyl methylether, polyvinyl sulfone, maleic acid copolymer , polyethylene oxide, polydiallyl amine, polyethylene imine, water soluble cellulose derivatives (e.g. carboxymethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, cellulose sulfate sodium salt) and starch derivatives (e.g. , starch oxide, dialdehyde starch, dextrin, British gum, acetyl starch, starch phosphate, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch).

[212] The at least one thickening agent may be present in the hair care compositions of the present disclosure in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.05% to about 8% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 8% by weight, or more preferably from about 0.1% to about 6%, even more preferably from about 0.2% to about of 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all intervals and subintervals therebetween.

[213] In a specific embodiment, the total amount of the thickening agent is about 0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.5%, 2%, 2.5%, 3%, 3.5%, 4 %, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9% or 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

SILICONE COMPOUND

[214] The hair care composition according to the disclosure may also include one or more silicone compounds (also referred to as "silicones"), for example, dimethicone, aminosilicones, dimethicone copolyes, etc.

[215] The term "aminosilicone" is intended to mean any silicone compound comprising at least one primary, secondary, or tertiary amine or quaternary ammonium group.

em que x’ e y’ são números inteiros tais que o peso molecular ponderal médio (Mw) é compreendido entre cerca de 5000 e 500000; b) aminossilicones correspondentes à fórmula (B): R’aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR’2-b)m-O-SiG3-a-R’a (B) em que: G, que pode ser idêntico ou diferente, designa um átomo de hidrogênio ou um grupo fenila, OH ou alquila C1-C8, por exemplo metila ou alcoxi C1-C8, por exemplo metoxi, - a, que pode ser idêntico ou diferente, denota o número 0 ou um número inteiro de 1 a 3, em particular 0; - b denota 0 ou 1, e em particular 1; - m e n são números tais que a soma (n + m) varia de 1 a 2000 e, em particular, de 50 a 150, sendo possível n indicar um número de 0 a 1999 e, em particular, de 49 a 149, e para m denotar um número de 1 a 2000 e, em particular, de 1 a 10; - R’, que pode ser idêntico ou diferente, denota um radical monovalente com a fórmula -CqH2qL, em que q é um número que varia de 2 a 8 e L é um grupo amino opcionalmente quaternizado, escolhido a partir dos seguintes grupos: -NR”-Q-N(R”)2 -N(R”)2 -N+(R”)3 A- -N+H(R”)2 A- -N+H2(R”) A- -N(R”)-Q-N+R”H2 A- -NR”-Q-N+(R”)2H A- -NR”-Q-N+(R”)3 A-, em que R”, que pode ser idêntico ou diferente, denota hidrogênio, fenila, benzila ou um radical monovalente saturado à base de hidrocarboneto, por exemplo um radical alquila C1-C20; Q denota um grupo CrH2r linear ou ramificado, sendo r um número inteiro variando de 2 a 6, preferencialmente de 2 a 4; e A- representa um íon cosmeticamente aceitável, em particular um halogeneto como fluoreto, cloreto, brometo ou iodeto.[216] As aminosilicone that can be used within the scope of the disclosure, the following can be cited:

wherein x' and y' are integers such that the weight average molecular weight (Mw) is comprised between about 5000 and 500000; b) aminosilicones corresponding to the formula (B): R'aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2-b)mO-SiG3-a-R'a (B) where: G, which may be identical or different, designates a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, OH or C1-C8 alkyl group, for example methyl or C1-C8 alkoxy, for example methoxy, -a, which may be identical or different, denotes the number 0 or a number integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0; - b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1; - men are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and, in particular, from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to indicate a number from 0 to 1999 and, in particular, from 49 to 149, and for m denotes a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; - R', which can be identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical with the formula -CqH2qL, where q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group, chosen from the following groups: - NR”-QN(R”)2 -N(R”)2 -N+(R”)3 A- -N+H(R”)2 A- -N+H2(R”) A- -N(R) ”)-Q-N+R”H2 A- -NR”-Q-N+(R”)2H A- -NR”-Q-N+(R”)3 A-, where R”, which may be identical or otherwise, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched CrH2r group, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

em que n e m têm os significados dados acima, na fórmula B.[217] A group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition (B) is represented by “trimethylsilylamodimethicone” with the formula (C):

where neither have the meanings given above in formula B.

na qual: - m e n são números tais que a soma (n + m) pode variar de 1 a 1000, em particular de 50 a 250 e mais particularmente de 100 a 200, sendo possível para n denotar um número de 0 a 999 e em particular de 49 a 249, e mais particularmente de 125 a 175, e para m denotar um número de 1 a 1000 e em particular de 1 a 10, e mais particularmente de 1 a 5; - R1, R2, R3, que podem ser idênticos ou diferentes, representam um radical hidroxi ou alcoxi C1-C4, em que pelo menos um dos radicais R1 a R3 indica um radical alcoxi, preferencialmente um radical metoxi.[218] Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by silicones with the following formulas (D) or (E):

in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can vary from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 999 and in in particular from 49 to 249, and more particularly from 125 to 175, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 1000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; - R1, R2, R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxy or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, where at least one of the radicals R1 to R3 denotes an alkoxy radical, preferably a methoxy radical.

[219] The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

na qual: p e q são números tais que a soma (p + q) varia de 1 a 1000, particularmente de 50 a 350, e mais particularmente de 150 a 250; sendo possível para p denotar um número de 0 a 999 e, em particular, de 49 a 349, e mais particularmente de 159 a 239 e q denotar um número de 1 a 1000, em particular de 1 a 10, e mais particularmente de 1 a 5; - R1, R2, que são diferentes, representam um radical hidroxi ou alcoxi C1-C4, em que pelo menos um dos radicais R1 ou R2 indica um radical alcoxi, preferencialmente um radical metoxi.[220] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges between 2000 and 1 000 000, more particularly between 3500 and 200 000.

in which: p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, particularly from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; it being possible for p to denote a number from 0 to 999, and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q to denote a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; - R1, R2, which are different, represent a hydroxy or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, where at least one of the R1 or R2 radicals denotes an alkoxy radical, preferably a methoxy radical.

[221] The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1, and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

[222] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges between 2000 and 200,000, even more particularly between 5000 and 100,000 and more particularly between 10,000 and 50,000.

[223] Commercial products corresponding to these silicones with structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other aminosilicones whose structure is different from formulas (D) or (E).

[224] A product containing aminosilicones with structure (D) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652.

[225] A product containing aminosilicones with structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®.

[226] When these aminosilicones are used, a particularly advantageous embodiment is to use them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. Surfactants can be of any nature, but are preferably cationic and/or non-ionic. The number average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, in particular as aminosilicones of formula (E), microemulsions are used whose average particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nanometers (limits included) and more preferably from 10 nm to 50 nanometers (limits included). Therefore, in accordance with the disclosure, aminosilicone microemulsions of formula (E) sold as Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by Wacker can be used.

na qual: - m n são números tais que a soma (n + m) varia de 1 a 2000 e, em particular, de 50 a 150, sendo possível n indicar um número de 0 a 1999 e, em particular, de 49 a 149, e para m denotar um número de 1 a 2000 e, em particular, de 1 a 10; A denota um radical alquileno linear ou ramificado contendo de 4 a 8 átomos de carbono e de preferência 4 átomos de carbono. Este radical é preferencialmente linear.[227] Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (F):

in which: - mn are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and, in particular, from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to indicate a number from 0 to 1999 and, in particular, from 49 to 149 , and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

[228] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges between 2000 and 1 000 000, and more particularly between 3500 and 200 000.

[229] A preferred silicone of formula (F) is amodimethicone (INCI name) sold under the tradename XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow Corning.

na qual: m e n são números tais que a soma (n + m) varia de 1 a 2000 e, em particular, de 50 a 150, sendo possível para n indicar um número de 0 a 1 999 e, em particular, de 49 a 149, e para m denotar um número de 1 a 2000 e, em particular, de 1 a 10; - A denota um radical alquileno linear ou ramificado contendo de 4 a 8 átomos de carbono e de preferência 4 átomos de carbono. Este radical é de preferência ramificado.[230] Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (G):

where: m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and, in particular, from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to indicate a number from 0 to 1 999 and, in particular, from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

[231] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 1000 to 200,000.

[232] A silicone with this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning.

na qual: - R5 representa um radical monovalente à base de hidrocarboneto contendo de 1 a 18 átomos de carbono e, em particular, um radical alquila C1-C18 ou alquenila C2-C18, por exemplo metila; - R6 representa um radical à base de hidrocarboneto divalente, em particular um radical alquileno C1-C18 ou um radical alquilenoxi C1- C18 divalente, por exemplo C1-C8 ligado ao Si via uma ligação SiC; - Q- é um ânion tal como um íon halogeneto, em particular cloreto, ou um sal de ácido orgânico (por exemplo acetato); - r representa um valor estatístico médio de 2 a 20 e, em particular, de 2 a 8; - s representa um valor estatístico médio de 20 a 200 e, em particular, de 20 a 50.[233] c) aminosilicones corresponding to formula (H):

in which: - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms and, in particular, a C1-C18 alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl; - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18 alkyleneoxy radical, for example C1-C8 bonded to Si via an SiC bond; - Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate); - r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 20 and, in particular, from 2 to 8; - s represents an average statistical value from 20 to 200, and in particular from 20 to 50.

na qual: - R7, que pode ser idêntico ou diferente, representa um radical monovalente à base de hidrocarboneto contendo de 1 a 18 átomos de carbono e, em particular, um radical alquila C1-C18, um radical alquenila C2-C18 ou um anel contendo 5 ou 6 átomos de carbono, por exemplo metila; - R6 representa um radical divalente à base de hidrocarboneto, em particular um radical alquileno C1-C18 ou um radical alquilenoxi C1-C18 divalente, por exemplo C1-C8 ligado ao Si via uma ligação SiC; - R8, que pode ser idêntico ou diferente, representa um átomo de hidrogênio, um radical monovalente à base de hidrocarboneto contendo de 1 a 18 átomos de carbono e, em particular, um radical alquila C1-C18, um radical alquenila C2-C18 ou um radical -R6-NHCOR7; - X- é um ânion tal como um íon halogeneto, em particular cloreto, ou um sal de ácido orgânico (por exemplo acetato); - r representa um valor estatístico médio de 2 a 200 e, em particular, de 5 a 100.[234] Such aminosilicones are more particularly described in US patent 4,185,087

in which: - R7, which can be identical or different, represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms and, in particular, a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; - R6 represents a hydrocarbon-based divalent radical, in particular a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18 alkyleneoxy radical, for example C1-C8 linked to Si via an SiC bond; - R8, which can be identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms and, in particular, a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a radical -R6-NHCOR7; - X- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate); - r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 200, and in particular from 5 to 100.

[235] Such silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A 0 530 974.

na qual: [1] R1, R2, R3 e R4, que podem ser idênticos ou diferentes, denotam um radical alquila C1-C4 ou um grupo fenila; [2] R5 denota um radical alquila C1-C4 ou um grupo hidroxila; [3] n é um número inteiro que varia de 1 a 5; [4] m é um número inteiro que varia de 1 a 5; [5] em que x é escolhido de modo que o número de amina esteja entre 0,01 e 1 meq/ g.[236] e) aminosilicones with formula (J):

in which: [1] R1, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group; [2] R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group; [3] n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5; [4] m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5; [5] wherein x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g.

[237] f) multiblock polyoxyalkylenated aminosilicones, of the (AB)n type, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block containing at least one amine group.

[238] Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units with the following general formulas: [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-R -N(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N (H)-R-] or alternatively [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2- R -N(R”)- R' -O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-] where: - a is an integer greater than or equal to a 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100; - b is an integer comprised between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100, more particularly between 5 and 30; - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000, more particularly from 10 to 5000; - R” is a hydrogen atom or a methyl; - R, which may be identical or different, represents a divalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms, such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R indicates a CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- radical; - R', which can be identical or different, represents a divalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms, such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R' denotes -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[239] The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95% by mol of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly between 70 and 85% by mol.

[240] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

[241] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1 000 000, more particularly between 10 000 and 200 000.

na qual: - x e y são números que variam de 1 a 5000; de preferência, x varia entre 10 e 2000 e especialmente entre 100 e 1 000; de preferência, y varia de 1 a 100; - R1 e R2, que podem ser idênticos ou diferentes, preferencialmente idênticos, são radicais alquila lineares ou ramificados, saturados ou insaturados, compreendendo 6 a 30 átomos de carbono, preferencialmente 8 a 24 átomos de carbono e especialmente 12 a 20 átomos de carbono; - A indica um radical alquileno linear ou ramificado que contém de 2 a 8 átomos de carbono, Preferencialmente, A compreende 3 a 6 átomos de carbono, especialmente 4 átomos de carbono; de preferência, A é ramificado. Pode-se mencionar especialmente os seguintes radicais divalentes: -CH2CH2CH2 e - CH2CH(CH3)CH2-.[242] Special mention may be made of silicones sold under the names Silsoft™ A-843 or Silsoft™ A+ by Momentive. g) the alkylaminosilicones corresponding to the formula (K) below:

where: - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and especially from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100; - R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. Preferably, A comprises 3 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched. Particular mention may be made of the following divalent radicals: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-.

[243] Preferably, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made, in particular, of the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl radicals; and preferably, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) radicals.

[244] Preferably, the silicone is of formula (K) with: - x varying between 10 and 2000 and especially between 100 and 1000; - y ranging from 1 to 100; - A comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms and especially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly A is chosen from the following divalent radicals: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and - R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, being linear saturated alkyl radicals comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl radicals; preferably, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, being chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) radicals.

[245] A preferred silicone of formula (K) is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone (INCI name). Particular mention can be made of the silicone sold under the name Silsoft™ AX by Momentive.

[246] In one embodiment, the amino silicones according to the disclosure are chosen from amodimethicone, trideceth-9 PG amodimethicone, PEG-40/PPG-8 methylaminopropyl/hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer and mixtures thereof.

[247] Preferably, the aminosilicones according to the disclosure are chosen from the aminosilicones of formula (F). A preferred silicone of formula (F) is amodimethicone (INCI name) sold under the tradename XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Emulsion Cationic by Dow Corning.

[248] Silicones other than the above amino silicones can be chosen from dimethicone and dimethicone copolyol compounds, such as oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl(methyl)siloxane, polymethyl (C8-C22) alkyl dimethyl oxypropylenated methyl siloxane and/ or oxyethylenated and mixtures thereof, and wherein the copolyol dimethicone compounds are preferably selected from PEG-8 Dimethicone Benzoate, PEG-7 Dimethicone Phosphate, PEG-8 Dimethicone Phosphate, PEG-10 Dimethicone Phosphate, PEG -7 Dimethicone, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-9 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG-17 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone and mixtures thereof.

[249] In some embodiments, the at least one silicone compound in the hair care compositions of the present disclosure includes dimethicone and/or amodimethicone.

[250] In one embodiment, the at least one silicone compound in the hair care compositions of the present disclosure comprises dimethicone and amodimethicone.

[251] The at least one silicone compound in the hair care composition of the present disclosure may be present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about from 10% by weight, and more preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

[252] In a specific embodiment, the total amount of the silicone compound(s) is about 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5 %, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.5%, 2%, 2.5%, 3%, 3.5%, 4%, 4 .1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9% or 5%, by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

ALKALINE AGENT

[253] The hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure may include at least one alkaline agent, for example, at least one alkaline agent selected from organic amines, ammonium salts, inorganic and hydroxide bases, such as alkali metal hydroxides , alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, alkali metal citrates and mixtures thereof.

[254] Organic amines can be chosen from organic amines comprising one or two primary, secondary or tertiary amine functions and at least one linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl group having at least one hydroxyl radical.

[255] Organic amines may also be selected from cyclic amines and other cyclic compounds, saturated or unsaturated, having one or more nitrogen atoms within the ring, and mixtures thereof.

[256] Organic amines can be chosen from those having a pKb at 25 °C less than 12, such as less than 10 or less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the function of greatest basicity.

[257] Organic amines can also be chosen from alkanolamines, such as mono-, di- or trialkanolamines, comprising one to three identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, ethylamines, ethylenamines, quinoline, aniline and cyclic amines such as pyrroline, pyrrole, pyrrolidine, imidazole, imidazolidine, imidazolidin, morpholine, pyridine, piperidine, pyrimidine, piperazine, triazine and derivatives thereof.

[258] Alkanolamine-type compounds that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to: monoethanolamine (also known as monoethanolamine or MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, diisopropanolamine, triisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2 -methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, 2-amino-2-methyl -1-propanol (aminomethyl propanol or AMP), tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, tromethamine, a mixture thereof, preferably triethanolamine and/or aminomethyl propanol.

[259] Other examples include, but are not limited to: 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine, and spermidine.

[260] In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from amino acids.

[261] As non-limiting examples, the amino acids that can be used can be of natural or synthetic origin, in L, D or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen from, for example, carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid , phosphonic acid and phosphoric acid functions. Amino acids can be in their neutral or ionic form.

[262] Furthermore, as non-limiting examples, the amino acids can be chosen from basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function.

[263] Amino acids that can be used in the present disclosure include, but are not limited to: aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, ornithine, citrulline and valine.

[264] In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from organic amines of the heterocyclic type. In addition to histidine which has already been mentioned under amino acids, non-limiting mention can also be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, 1,2,4-triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole.

[265] In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from amino acid dipeptides. Amino acid dipeptides that can be used in the present disclosure include, but are not limited to: carnosine, anserine and balein.

[266] In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function. Organic amines of this type that can be used in the present disclosure include, in addition to arginine which has already been mentioned as an amino acid, creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, N-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid).

[267] In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from alkyl amines, such as monoamines, diamines, triamines, or mixtures thereof. An example of diamines that can be used as alkaline agents of the invention are 2,2'-(ethylenedioxy)bis(ethylamine) and 4,7,10-trioxa-1,13-tridecandiamine.

[268] The organic amine may be in salt form. The term "organic amine salt" as used herein means organic or mineral salts of an organic amine as described above.

[269] As a non-limiting example, the organic salts can be chosen from the salts of organic acids, such as citrates, lactates, glycolates, gluconates, acetates, propionates, fumarates, oxalates and tartrates.

[270] In one embodiment, the organic salt is trisodium citrate.

[271] Furthermore, as a non-limiting example, mineral salts can be chosen from hydrohalides (eg hydrochlorides), carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, sulfates, hydrogen phosphates and phosphates.

[272] The ammonium salts that can be used according to the present disclosure can be chosen from the following acid salts: carbonate, bicarbonate. For example, salt is carbonate, such as ammonium carbonate.

[273] The alkali metal phosphates and carbonates that can be used are, for example, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate and derivatives thereof.

[274] Alkaline agents can also be chosen from inorganic bases and hydroxide bases, such as alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, transition metal hydroxides, quaternary ammonium hydroxides, organic hydroxides and mixtures of the same. Suitable examples are ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, rubidium hydroxide, cesium hydroxide, francium hydroxide, beryllium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, strontium hydroxide, barium hydroxide , molybdenum hydroxide, manganese hydroxide, zinc hydroxide, cobalt hydroxide, cadmium hydroxide, cerium hydroxide, lanthanum hydroxide, actinium hydroxide, thorium hydroxide, aluminum hydroxide, guanidinium hydroxide and mixtures thereof.

[275] According to at least one embodiment, the at least one alkaline agent is chosen from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, aminomethyl propanediol, triisopropanol amine, dimethylstearylamine, dimethyl tallowamine , lysine, ornithine, arginine, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, calcium hydroxide, calcium bicarbonate and mixtures thereof.

[276] According to another preferred embodiment, the at least one alkaline agent is chosen from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, disodium phosphate, L-lysine , L-arginine, tromethamine, aminomethyl propanol, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, tetrahydroxy propyl ethylenediamine, triisopropanolamine, trisodium citrate, 2,2'-(ethylenedioxy)bis(ethylamine), 4,7,10-trioxa-1,13- tridecandiamine and mixtures thereof.

[277] According to an especially preferred embodiment, the at least one alkaline agent is chosen from an alkanolamine. Non-limiting examples of particularly useful alkanolamines include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol, triisopropanolamine, tromethamine, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, tetrahydroxy propyl ethylenediamine, a mixture thereof, preferably triethanolamine and/or aminomethyl propanol.

[278] The at least alkaline agent may be present in the hair care compositions in an amount of 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

[279] When the at least one alkaline agent is selected from aminomethyl propanol, it may be present in an amount of from 0.1% to 6.3% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5.5% by weight. weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 4.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

[280] When the at least one alkaline agent is sodium hydroxide, it may be present in an amount of from 0.1% to 4.1% by weight, preferably from 0.15% to 3.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

[281] When the at least one alkaline agent is an alkanolamine, it may be present in an amount of from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 6% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

pH

[282] The pH of the hair care compositions of the present disclosure can range from about 2 to less than 7, or from about pH 2 to about 6.5, or from about pH 2 to about 6, or from about pH 2 to about 5.2, or from about pH 2.2 to about 5, such as from about pH 2 to about 5, or preferably from about pH 2 to about 4.8 , or more preferably from about pH 2 to about 4.5, or more preferably from about pH 2.2 to about 4.5, or even more preferably from about pH 2.2 to about 4, including all intervals and subintervals between them.

[283] In some embodiments, the pH of the hair care compositions of the present disclosure can be about 2, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6 , 2.75, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9 , 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9 or 5.

[284] The desired pH can be achieved using one or more of the alkaline agents described above.

[285] In some embodiments, depending on the amount of reducing agent and/or disulfide compound in the compositions of the invention, pH adjusters such as acids (e.g., phosphoric acid) or alkaline agents can optionally be added to achieve the desired values. desired pH values. For example, when the reducing agent (e.g., thiolactic acid) is in an amount of from about 4% to about 8% by weight and the disulfide compound (e.g., diammonium dithioglycolate) is in an amount greater than 1% by weight, such as, for example, 5% by weight, an acid such as phosphoric acid can be used in an amount of up to about 3% by weight, in order to achieve a lower pH of about 2 to about 3 In another example, when the reducing agent (for example, thiolactic acid) is in an amount of from about 4% to about 8% by weight and the disulfide compound (for example, diammonium dithioglycolate is in an amount of 1% by weight or less, a pH adjuster may not be necessary to achieve a lower pH of about 2 to about 3.

WATER

[286] Compositions according to the disclosure include water. The water used can be sterile demineralized water and/or floral water, such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime water and/or thermal or natural mineral water, such as, for example: Vittel water, Vichy basin, Uriage water, La Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Neris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water , water from Digne, water from Maizieres, water from Neyracles-Bains, water from Lons-le-Saunier, water from Eaux Bonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Les Fumades, water from Tercis-les- Bains or Avene water. The water may also comprise reconstituted thermal water, i.e. a water comprising trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a thermal water.

[287] The composition according to the disclosure comprises water in an amount ranging from about 50% to about 99% by weight, preferably from about 65% to about 95% by weight, and more preferably from about 70% to about 92% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

WATER-SOLUBLE SOLVENT

[288] According to at least one embodiment, the hair care compositions of the present disclosure include at least one water-soluble solvent. The term "water-soluble solvent" is interchangeable with the term "water-miscible solvent" and means a compound that at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) has a solubility of at least 50% in water. In some cases, the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80% or 90% in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, glycerin, alcohols (for example, C1-8 or C1-4 alcohols), organic solvents, polyols, glycols and a mixture thereof.

[289] As examples of organic solvents, non-limiting mentions can be made of monoalcohols and polyols, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers, such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or their ethers, such as, for example, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, as well as diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, for example monoethyl ether or diethylene glycol monobutyl ether. Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol and glycerin. Organic solvents can be volatile or non-volatile compounds.

[290] Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include alkanols (polyhydric alcohols such as glycols and polyols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butylne glycol, hexylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl -1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol; glycol ethers, such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-1-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, and dipropylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether; 2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetin, diacetin, triacetin, sulfolane and a mixture thereof.

[291] In some embodiments, the water-soluble solvent may be selected from one or more glycols, C1-4 alcohols, glycerin, and a mixture thereof.

[292] The total amount of at least one water-soluble solvent in the hair care composition can vary, but is typically from about 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably in an amount of about 0.05 % to 8% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[293] In various embodiments, the hair care composition of the present disclosure is a leave-in conditioning composition in the form of an aqueous composition or an emulsion or a cream or lotion.

[294] In one embodiment, the hair care compositions of the present disclosure are a leave-in composition for conditioning and/or keeping hair in a particular shape or shape (such as a styling composition).

[295] In one embodiment, the present disclosure relates to a hair treatment method or process, wherein the hair treatment composition is applied to the hair (wet or dry), massaged into the hair fibers, then , left on the hair for at least one hour.

[296] In one embodiment, the present disclosure relates to a process or method of treating or conditioning hair according to the general protocol or treatment cycle comprising: a) optionally washing the hair with a shampoo and/or rinsing the hair with water and, optionally, drying the hair at a temperature ranging from room temperature to about 200 °C (for example, with a hair dryer) and, optionally, applying a smoothing action to the hair; b) applying a hair care composition according to the present disclosure to the hair and allowing the hair care composition to remain on the hair for a period of time ranging from about 1 minute to about 1 hour, from about 15 minutes to about 45 minutes, or for about 30 minutes; c) after allowing the hair care composition to remain on the hair for a period of time, optionally rinsing the hair care composition from the hair (preferably, the hair care composition is rinsed from the hair, but this is not necessary hair rinsing); d) drying the hair at a temperature ranging from room temperature to about 200 °C, for example using a hair dryer, while optionally applying a smoothing action to the hair; e) run a flat iron over the hair, e.g. run the flat iron over the hair at least once (or at least 2 times, at least 4 times, at least 5 times or at least 10 times or more, e.g. until 20, 22, 25, 28, 30, 40, 50, 75 or 100 times); f) after flat ironing the hair, optionally applying a neutralizing composition to the hair (e.g. a neutralizing composition comprising hydrogen peroxide) and allowing the neutralizing composition to remain on the hair for a period of time ranging from about 1 minute to about 1 hour; about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes or about 10 minutes; g) wash the hair with a shampoo and/or conditioner and/or rinse the hair with water; and h) drying the hair at a temperature ranging from room temperature to about 200 °C, for example using a hair dryer, while optionally applying a smoothing action to the hair.

[297] The smoothing action can be performed by brushing, combing or running fingers through the hair.

[298] Drying the hair at a temperature ranging from room temperature to about 200 °C can be accomplished by drying the hair with a hair dryer or using other heat sources such as flat iron, hair dryer, heat lamp, curling iron heat wand or other similar devices.

[299] When the above method comprises step e), the flat iron can be employed at a temperature of about 100 °C, or ranging from about 100 °C to about 250 °C or from about 110 °C to about 230°C or from about 110°C to about 210°C or from about 120°C to about 200°C or from about 150°C to about 190°C or from about 190°C °C to about 250 °C, including intervals and subranges therebetween, or at a temperature of about 230 °C or about 225 °C or about 220 °C or about 210 °C or about 200 °C or about 190°C or about 190°C or about 180°C or about 150°C or about 100°C and preferably at about 230°C or about 230°C.

[300] In various embodiments, the flat iron is passed over the hair at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 times or more, for example, up to 20, 22, 25 , 28, or 30 times.

[301] In one embodiment, after flat ironing the hair, the method described above includes a step of applying a neutralizing composition to the hair (e.g., a neutralizing composition comprising an oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide) and allowing the neutralizing composition to remain on the hair for a period of time ranging from 1 minute to 1 hour; about 5 minutes to 30 minutes or 10 minutes.

[302] The hair care composition can be applied to the hair using an applicator device or with gloved hands or fingers. A suitable applicator device is an applicator brush or applicator comb or applicator spatula or an applicator or dispenser tip attached to the container containing the composition.

[303] The method or course of treatment described above may be repeated over a period of days or weeks.

[304] The method/process according to the present disclosure, may be followed or preceded by the use of rinse compositions to clean and/or condition the hair, such as a shampoo or conditioner.

[305] The cosmetic effects conferred by the hair care compositions and accompanying hair care methods of the present disclosure can be evaluated by visually evaluating the appearance of the hair after processing the hair according to the methods of the disclosure. Another type of assessment may also involve sensory assessments of the hair.

[306] It was surprisingly and unexpectedly found that hair placed in contact with the hair care compositions of the present disclosure and treated in accordance with the methods of the disclosure generally visually appeared less voluminous and less frizzy compared to hair placed in contact with hair care compositions which do not contain thiolactic acid. Using the heat protocol (step e), the hair looked longer and/or straighter and, without this step, the curls were much more defined. It was also surprisingly and unexpectedly found that hair placed in contact with the hair care compositions of the disclosure and treated in accordance with the methods of the disclosure were softer to the touch, more manageable, more disciplined (i.e., less or no flyaways ), and exhibited more regularity regarding shape and appearance. These effects were even more noticeable after subjecting the hair to several treatment or application cycles.

[307] The hair care compositions of the present disclosure may be packaged in any suitable container, such as a tube, vial or bottle. In certain embodiments, the composition may be packaged in a tube or bottle, for example, a squeeze tube or squeeze bottle. Furthermore, an applicator device may be attached or connected to the opening of the packing/squeezing tube or bottle wherein the applicator device is a toothed brush or comb, such that the ends of the teeth have openings from which the composition of disclosure can flow through them and be applied directly to the hair.

[308] The composition of the present disclosure can also be provided as a component of a hair treatment kit, where the kit can additionally contain other components, such as a shampoo and/or a conditioner and/or a hair mask and/or ampoule .

[309] Although the disclosure has been described with reference to a preferred embodiment, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various changes can be made and equivalents can be substituted for elements thereof without departing from the scope of the disclosure. Furthermore, many modifications can be made to adapt a specific situation or material to the teachings of the disclosure without departing from the essential scope thereof. Therefore, it is intended that the disclosure not be limited to the specific embodiment disclosed as the contemplated best mode for making this disclosure, but that the disclosure include all embodiments falling within the scope of the appended claims.

[310] The hair treatment compositions according to the disclosure can be manufactured by known processes generally used in the cosmetic field.

[311] The following examples are intended to be non-restrictive and explanatory only, within the scope of the disclosed embodiments.

[312] The amounts of ingredients in the hair care compositions/formulas described below are expressed in % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

EXAMPLES EXAMPLE A (FORMULATIONS)

[313] The formulations of the present disclosure can be prepared in water according to Table 1:

[314] The formulations according to Table 1 were prepared. Two formulations without a neutralizing agent are shown in Table 2 as Examples 1 and 2. Another formulation that includes a neutralizing agent (triethanolamine) is shown in Table 2 as Example 3.

EXAMPLE B (PERFORMANCE EVALUATION)

[315] The above formulas were used to treat hair samples as follows: 1. Hair samples were washed with a neutral pH shampoo, washed with water, and the hair was dried with a hair dryer at a temperature ranging from room temperature to about 100°C or up to about 160°C while applying a smoothing action to the hair; 2. Each formulation was spread along the length of the hair samples and allowed to remain on the hair for about 30 minutes before being rinsed off; 3. After rinsing the formulations from the hair, the hair was dried with a hair dryer at a temperature of up to about 100°C or up to about 160°C, while applying a smoothing action to the hair; 4. A flat iron at a temperature of about 230°C was passed over each hair sample 10 times; 5. The hair samples were then treated with a neutralizing cream comprising hydrogen peroxide, which was allowed to remain on the hair for about 10 minutes before being removed from the hair; 6. The hair samples were then washed with a pH neutral shampoo, rinsed with water and allowed to air dry.

[316] Hair samples were sensory and visually evaluated for the attributes of straightening, volume (control or volume reduction), and frizz (frizz control or reduction) based on a standardized rating scale from 1 to 4, with 4 the best rating value (highest degree of straightening, least amount of volume and least amount of frizz). Samples were tested immediately after step (6) and again after being shampooed an additional ten times. The results are reported below.

[317] Images of the hair samples and visual assessment scores are also shown in Figure 1. The data show that hair samples treated with the compositions of the invention were straighter, had better volume control, and were less frizzy than the untreated hair samples and treated hair samples with the comparative compositions in Table 2. These effects were observed even after 10 shampooings compared to the comparatives and control (no treatment) (indicating lasting effects).

Claims (15)

1. HAIR TREATMENT COMPOSITION, characterized in that it comprises: - at least one reducing agent selected from compounds based on thiol and mixtures thereof; - at least one disulfide compound selected from dithioglycolic acid, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof; - at least one dicarboxylic acid, non-polymeric and non-thiol, and/or a salt thereof; - optionally, at least one cationic surfactant; and water; wherein the pH of the composition is from 2 to less than 7. 2. COMPOSITION according to claim 1, characterized in that at least one reducing agent is a thiol-based compound selected from thiolactic acid and derivatives thereof, 3-mercaptopropionic acid and derivatives thereof, cysteamine and derivatives thereof , cysteine and derivatives thereof, thioglycolic acid and derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof, and be present in an amount of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 16% by weight, more preferably 3 to 14% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition. 3. COMPOSITION according to any one of Claims 1 to 2, characterized in that at least one reducing agent comprises thiolactic acid. 4. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that at least one disulfide compound is selected from dithioglycolic acid, diammonium dithiodiglycolate and mixtures thereof, and at least one disulfide compound is present in an amount of 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition. 5. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized by at least one dicarboxylic acid, non-polymeric and non-thiol, comprising: oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, acid adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid and 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, a salt thereof or a mixture thereof and at least a dicarboxylic, non-polymeric and non-thiol, and/or salts thereof being present in an amount of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 1 to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition. 6. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it comprises at least one cationic surfactant, in which the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from salts of primary, secondary and optionally polyoxyalkenylated fatty amines, compounds from quaternary ammonium compounds and their salts, and mixtures thereof, preferably from quaternary ammonium compounds and their salts, and more preferably from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, behentrimonium methosulfate and mixtures thereof, and at least one cationic surfactant is present in an amount of 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably 1 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition for hair treatment. 7. COMPOSITION, according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it further comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl(ether) phosphates, alkylpolyglucosides, alkanolamides of fatty acids and mixtures thereof, and at least one nonionic surfactant is present in an amount of 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 12% by weight, more preferably 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition. 8. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it further comprises at least one thickening agent, selected from cellulose polymers, gums, modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, polyacrylamides, acrylic acid copolymers and of acrylamide, sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids, polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid optionally cross-linked and/or neutralized, polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate, glucans, modified or unmodified starches, silicas and mixtures thereof, and at least one thickening agent is present in an amount of 0.01 to 10%, preferably 0.05 to 8%, more preferably 0.1 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition hair. 9. COMPOSITION according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it further comprises at least one silicone compound selected from dimethicone; aminosilicones such as amodimethicone, trideceth-9 PG amodimethicone, PEG-40/PPG-8 methylaminopropyl/hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer; dimethicone copolyol selected from oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl(methyl)siloxane, polymethyl (C8-C22) alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane and mixtures thereof, and at least one silicone compound is present in an amount of 0.1 to 15 % by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition. 10. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it further comprises at least one alkaline agent selected from organic amines (such as an alkanolamine), an amino acid, an ammonium salt, an alkali metal hydroxide , an alkaline earth metal hydroxide, an alkali metal carbonate, an alkali metal phosphate, an alkali metal citrate and mixtures thereof, and at least one alkaline agent is present in an amount of 0.01 to 15% in weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition. 11. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the alkaline agent comprises an organic amine selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol, tromethamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, triisopropanolamine, 2,2'-( ethylenedioxy)bis(ethylamine), 4,7,10-trioxa-1,13-tridecanediamine and a mixture thereof, preferably triethanolamine. 12. HAIR TREATMENT COMPOSITION, characterized in that it comprises: - from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 16% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 14% by weight of at least one compound based on of thiol selected from thiolactic acid, an ester thereof, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof, preferably thiolactic acid; - from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 8% by weight of at least one disulfide compound selected from dithioglycolic acid, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof; - from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 12% by weight of at least one dicarboxylic acid, non-polymeric and non-thiol, and/or salt the same, preferably lactic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citric acid, a salt thereof or a mixture thereof; - from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 6% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant selected from primary and secondary fatty amine salts and optionally polyoxyalkenylated tertiary ammonium compounds, quaternary ammonium compounds and their salts, and mixtures thereof, preferably from quaternary ammonium compounds and their salts, and more preferably from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, behentrimonium and mixtures thereof; - from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 12% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight of at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, phosphates of alkyl(ether), alkylpolyglucosides, alkanolamides of fatty acids and mixtures thereof; - from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 6% by weight of the at least one thickening agent selected from cellulose polymers, gums, polymers modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl acids, polyacrylamides, copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide, sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers optionally cross-linked and/or neutralized, polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate, glucans, modified or unmodified starches, silicas and mixtures thereof; - from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight of the at least one silicone compound selected from dimethicone; aminosilicones such as amodimethicone, trideceth-9 PG amodimethicone, PEG-40/PPG-8 methylaminopropyl/hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer; dimethicone copolyol selected from oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl(methyl)siloxane, polymethyl(C8-C22)alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane and mixtures thereof; - optionally from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 8% by weight of the at least one alkaline agent selected from organic amines (such as an alkanolamine), an amino acid, an ammonium salt, an alkali metal hydroxide, an alkaline earth metal hydroxide, an alkali metal carbonate, an alkali metal phosphate, an alkali metal citrate and mixtures thereof, preferably an organic amine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol, tromethamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, triisopropanolamine, 2,2'-(ethylenedioxy)bis(ethylamine), 4,7,10-trioxa-1,13-tridecandiamine and a mixture thereof; and water; wherein the pH of the composition is from 2 to less than 7. 13. NON-THERAPEUTIC COSMETIC METHOD TO TREAT HAIR, characterized in that the method comprises a treatment cycle involving the steps of: (a) optionally washing the hair with a shampoo and/or rinsing the hair with water and, optionally, drying the hair at a temperature ranging from room temperature to 200 °C, for example with a hair dryer while optionally applying a smoothing action to the hair; (b) applying a hair care composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12 to the hair and allowing the hair care composition to remain on the hair for a period of time ranging from 1 minute to 1 hour; (c) after allowing the hair care composition to remain on the hair for a period of time, optionally removing the hair care composition from the hair; (d) drying the hair at a temperature ranging from room temperature to 200 °C, for example using a hair dryer, while optionally applying a smoothing action to the hair; (e) optionally, run the flat iron over the hair at least once; (f) optionally allowing the hair care composition to remain on the hair for at least 1 hour or for a period of time ranging from 1 hour to 72 hours, such as from 4 hours to 48 hours or from 8 hours to 36 hours or from 8 to 24 hours; (g) optionally applying a neutralizing composition to the hair (for example, a neutralizing composition comprising hydrogen peroxide) and allowing the neutralizing composition to remain on the hair for a period of time; and (h) washing/rinsing the hair with a shampoo and/or rinsing the hair with water, followed by allowing the hair to air dry, optionally applying a smoothing action to the hair. 14. METHOD, according to claim 13, characterized by the flat iron being used at a temperature ranging from 100 °C to 250 °C. 15. METHOD FOR TRANSMITTING ONE OR MORE HAIR CARE EFFECTS TO THE HAIR, selected from: (i) conditioning; (ii) smoothing or relaxing effects; (iii) manageability; (iv) frizz control; (v) volume reduction or control; (vi) styling or modeling effects; (vii) curling effects; (viii) texlaxing effects; (ix) improvement or retention of bunch definition; (x) moisture resistance; (xi) cosmeticity for sensation; (xii) smooth feeling; (xiii) natural feel; (xiv) discipline; (xv) regularity; (xvi) smaller or reduced studs; and (xvii) improvement of hair appearance; characterized in that it comprises applying a hair treatment composition, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12, to the hair.