BR112019022772B1 - COMPOSITION, METHOD FOR CARE OF A KERATIN MATERIAL IN AN ANIMAL AND METHOD FOR PREPARING THE COMPOSITION - Google Patents

Abstract

A composition is provided that includes an emulsion having an aqueous phase and a lipophilic phase, wherein the composition includes water, a hydrophobic silica airgel, porous microparticles of a polylactic acid-based resin, one or more organic solvents, one or more emulsifiers, one or more lipophilic materials and one or more sunscreens. The composition may be prepared by a method which includes the steps of a) preparing an oil phase including the lipophilic materials, the porous microparticles of a polylactic acid-based resin and the hydrophobic silica airgel particles; and b) at room temperature and under mechanical agitation, adding to the oil phase an aqueous phase including water and one or more emulsifiers. A method of treating a keratin material in an animal includes applying to the keratin material an effective amount of the composition.

Description

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[001] The invention relates to sunscreen compositions comprising emulsions that include porous polylactic acid particles and hydrophobic silica airgel particles.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[002] Sunscreen compositions should provide good protection from the sun, the measure of which is the sun protection factor (SPF) value, but have a satisfactory sensory perception, such as a smooth but non-greasy feeling, after application. . However, this combination of properties has been difficult to achieve, mainly because many active sunscreen compounds have an oily or greasy feel, and increasing their content tends to cause the final product to suffer from this effect. Therefore, compositions that provide a good SPF and non-greasy sensory effect would be a welcome advance in cosmetic sunscreen formulations.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[003] The invention provides a composition comprising an emulsion with an aqueous phase and a lipophilic phase, wherein the composition comprises water, a hydrophobic silica airgel, porous microparticles of a polylactic acid-based resin, one or more organic solvents, one or more emulsifiers, one or more lipophilic materials and one or more sunscreens.

[004] In the composition, the porous microparticles of the polylactic acid-based resin can have a melting enthalpy of 5 J/g or more.

[005] In the composition, the porous microparticles of the polylactic acid-based resin can have an average number of particle diameter from 1 μm to 90 μm.

[006] In the composition, the porous microparticles of the polylactic acid-based resin can have a particle diameter distribution index in the range of 1.0 to 1.5.

[007] In the composition, the porous microparticles of the polylactic acid-based resin can have a linseed oil absorption capacity in the range of 90 ml/g to 1000 ml/g.

[008] In the composition, the porous microparticles of the polylactic acid-based resin can have a sphericity in the range of 80 to 100.

[009] In the composition, the porous microparticles of the polylactic acid-based resin can be present in a range of 0.05% by weight to 1.0% by weight.

[0010] In the composition, the hydrophobic silica airgel may be a silica silylate.

[0011] In composition, hydrophobic silica airgel can have a specific surface area in the range of 500 m2/g to 1500 m2/g as measured by BET nitrogen uptake.

[0012] In composition, hydrophobic silica airgel can have a volume average diameter in the range of 1 μm to 100 μm.

[0013] In the composition, the hydrophobic silica airgel may be present in the range of 0.05% by weight to 0.5% by weight.

[0014] In the composition, the one or more sunscreens can be selected from the group consisting of octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, oxybenzone, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, terephthalidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, drometrizole trisiloxane, bis-tetramethylbutylphenol and combinations of the same.

[0015] The composition may further comprise an active compound selected from the group consisting of disodium EDTA, triethanolamine and tromethamine.

[0016] In the composition, the one or more lipophilic materials may comprise one or more isononyl isononanoate, diisopropyl sebacate, stearyl alcohol, dimethicone and caprylyl methicone.

[0017] In the composition, the one or more organic solvents may comprise one or more of ethanol, glycerol, pentylene glycol and caprylyl glycol.

[0018] The composition may further comprise one or more aesthetic modifiers selected from the group consisting of aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, xanthan gum, acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate cropolymers, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate homopolymers and copolymers of ammonium acrylodimethyltaurate/vinylpyrrolidone.

[0019] The composition may further comprise amorphous silica microspheres with an average diameter in the range of 1 μm to 10 μm.

[0020] The composition can provide an SPF of at least 30, preferably at least 50, more preferably at least 70, even more preferably at least 80 and most preferably at least 90.

[0021] In the composition, the lipophilic sunscreens and the one or more lipophilic materials taken together may be present in a range of 25% by weight to 50% by weight.

[0022] The composition, if subjected to stability tests, can show essentially the same pH, viscosity profile, SEM images and photostability after 2 months of storage and shortly after production, for each of the storage conditions at 4 °C , room temperature and 45 °C.

[0023] The invention also provides a method of caring for a keratin material in an animal, comprising applying an effective amount of the composition to the keratin material. The keratin material can be the skin.

[0024] The invention also provides a method of preparing the composition, comprising the steps of a) preparing an oil phase comprising the lipophilic materials, the porous microparticles of a polylactic acid-based resin and the hydrophobic silica airgel particles; and b) at room temperature and under mechanical agitation, adding to the oil phase an aqueous phase comprising water and one or more emulsifiers.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0025] The sunscreen compositions according to the invention are emulsions comprising hydrophobic silica airgel particles and porous microparticles of a polylactic acid-based resin, together with one or more sunscreens, lipophilic ingredients and water. Unless otherwise indicated, all % values given herein are % by weight expressed in relation to the total weight of the composition. When multiple alternate lower and/or upper limits on a given component are recited here, all combinations of the upper and lower limits are contemplated for that component.

[0026] The compositions according to the invention provide excellent sensory performance as well as surprisingly high SPF values and product stability. Stability is typically such that, after 2 months of storage, pH, viscosity profile, SEM images, and photostability are essentially the same as immediately after production, for each of the storage conditions at 4°C, temperature environment and at 45 °C. In particular, the combination of hydrophobic silica airgel particles and porous microparticles of a polylactic acid-based resin has been found to provide unseen performance when one of these components is omitted. The compositions of the invention will now be described in terms of the types and amounts of essential and optional ingredients used.

POLYLACTIC ACID MICROPARTICLES (PLA)

[0027] The compositions of the invention comprise porous microparticles of a polylactic acid-based resin, sometimes referred to herein as "polylactic acid microparticles" or "PLA microparticles." The amount of PLA microparticles present in the compositions will typically be at least 0.02%, or at least 0.05, 0.10, or 0.12%. Typically this will be at most 1%, or at most 0.7, 0.5, 0.3, or 0.2%.

[0028] Suitable PLA microparticles are described in US Patent 9,017,812, incorporated herein by reference, and can be prepared by the methods disclosed herein. The PLA microparticles may have a melting enthalpy of 5 J/g or more, preferably 10 J/g or more, more preferably 20 J/g or more and most preferably 30 J/g or more. Furthermore, the upper limit is preferably 100 J/g or less, although it is not particularly limited. The enthalpy of fusion refers to a value calculated from a peak area, which shows the heat capacity of fusion at approximately 160 °C, in a differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), where a temperature is increased to 200 °C with increasing temperature of 20 °C per minute.

[0029] The melting enthalpy can be adjusted by controlling the copolymerization ratio (L/D) between L-lactic acid and D-lactic acid, which constitute the polylactic acid-based resin. When the L/D ratio is 95/5 or more, the enthalpy of melting becomes 5 J/g or more and the polylactic acid-based resin becomes crystalline. It is preferred that the copolymerization ratio of L-lactic acid be high, because higher ratios facilitate crystallization. L/D is more preferably 97/3 or more and more preferably 98/2 or more. L/D is 100/0 or less. As optical isomers such as L and D have molecular structures that are mirror images of each other and the physical properties are not different, the enthalpy of fusion remains unchanged when the L/D described above is replaced by D/L and consequently , suitable resins include those resins in which L/D is replaced by D/L.

[0030] In addition, polylactic acid-based resin may contain copolymerization ingredients other than lactic acid. The other copolymerization ingredient units can be, for example, a multivalent carboxylic acid, a polyhydric alcohol, a hydroxycarboxylic acid or a lactone. Examples of multivalent carboxylic acids include oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, sebatic acid, dodecanedioic acid, fumaric acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, terephthalic acid, isophthalic acid, phthalic acid, 2,6- dicarboxylic naphthalene, anthracene dicarboxylic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 5-tetrabutyl phosphonium sulfoisophthalic acid. Exemplary polyhydric alcohols include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butanediol, heptanediol, hexanediol, octanediol, nonanediol, decanediol, 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol, neopentyl glycol, glycerin, pentaerythritol, bisphenol A, an aromatic polyhydric alcohol produced by the addition reaction of hydrogen oxide. ethylene to a bisphenol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol and polytetramethylene glycol. Examples of hydroxycarboxylic acids include glycolic acid, 3-hydroxybutyric acid, 4-hydroxybutyric acid, 4-hydroxyvaleric acid, 6-hydroxycaproic acid and hydroxybenzoic acid. Examples of lactones include glycolide, ε-caprolactone glycolide, ε-caprolactone, β-propiolactone, δ-butyrolactone, β-butyrolactone, Y-butyrolactone, pivalolactone and δ-valerolactone. The volume content of the other copolymerization units is preferably 30 mol % or less, more preferably 20 mol % or less, even more preferably 10 mol % or less, more preferably 5 mol % or less, relative to the total of monomer units of the polylactic acid-based resin as 100% by mol.

[0031] While the molecular weight and molecular weight distribution of the polylactic acid-based resin are not particularly limited, the lower limit by weight average molecular weight of the polylactic acid-based resin is preferably 10,000 or more, more preferably 50,000 or more, even more preferably 100,000 or more, most preferably 200,000 or more. Furthermore, although not particularly limited, the upper limit of the weight average molecular weight is preferably 1,000,000 or less. The weight average molecular weight referred to herein is the weight average molecular weight in terms of polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) using hexafluoroisopropanol as solvent.

[0032] The PLA microparticles may have a number average particle diameter of 90 µm or less, preferably 50 µm or less, more preferably 30 µm or less. This improves smoothness. Also, in uses such as cosmetics, as particle coagulation tends to occur when the mean particle diameter is very small, the lower limit of the mean particle diameter is usually 1 μm or more, preferably greater than 1 μm, more preferably 2 µm or more, preferably 3 µm or more.

[0033] The particle diameter distribution index is preferably 2 or less in order to improve particle flow and give a smoother feel. The upper limit of the particle diameter distribution index is preferably 1.5 or less, more preferably 1.3 or less, most preferably 1.2 or less. Also, the lower bound is 1 in theory.

[0034] The above-described numerical average particle diameter of polylactic acid-based resin microparticles with porous shapes can be calculated by measuring diameters of 100 random particles in a scanning electron microscope image and calculating the arithmetic mean thereof. If the shape of a particle in the SEM image is not a perfect circle, for example an ellipse, the maximum diameter of the particle is used as its diameter. To accurately measure the diameter of the particles, the measurement is performed at a magnification of at least 1000 times or more, preferably at a magnification of 5000 times or more.

em que Ri: diâmetro de partícula de partícula única, n: número de medições (= 100), Dn: diâmetro médio de partícula em número, Dv: diâmetro de volume médio de partícula, PDI: índice de distribuição de diâmetro de partícula.[0035] The particle diameter distribution index is calculated based on the conversion equations described below, using measurements of the particle diameters obtained by the measurement described above:

where Ri: single particle particle diameter, n: number of measurements (= 100), Dn: number average particle diameter, Dv: particle volume average diameter, PDI: particle diameter distribution index.

[0036] Although the actual amount of pores in a porous microparticle of polylactic acid-based resin is difficult to measure directly, it is possible to use the absorption capacity of linseed oil as an indirect index, which is defined in test methods of pigment, as Japan Industrial Standards (Refined linseed oil method, JIS K 5101).

[0037] In particular, in uses such as cosmetics and paints, a higher capacity of linseed oil is preferable, and the lower limit of the capacity of linseed oil is preferably 90 ml/100 g or more, more preferably 100 ml/100 g or more, even more preferably 120 ml/100 g or more, particularly preferably 150 ml/100 g or more, notably preferably 200 ml/100 g or more, more preferably 300 ml/100 g or more. The upper limit of linseed oil absorption capacity is preferably 1000 ml/100 g or less.

[0038] Furthermore, it is preferred that the above-described porous microparticles of polylactic acid-based resin have an enthalpy of melting of 5 J/g or more. Higher melting enthalpy brings higher tendency to crystallization and as a result heat resistance and durability tend to become high. The lower limit of melting enthalpy is preferably 10 J/g or more, more preferably 20 J/g or more, even more preferably 30 J/g or more. Furthermore, the upper limit is preferably 100 J/g or less. The enthalpy of fusion can be calculated from a peak area that shows the melting heat capacity at approximately 160 °C in differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), in which a temperature is raised to 200 °C with an increase in temperature. of 20 °C per minute.

em que S: Esfericidade, n: o número de medições (= 30), Ds: o menor diâmetro da partícula única, DL: o maior diâmetro da única partícula.[0039] The sphericity of the above-described porous microparticles of polylactic acid-based resin is preferably 80 or more, more preferably 85 or more, even more preferably 90 or more, particularly preferably 92 or more, more preferably 95 or more. Also, in theory, the upper limit is 100. When the sphericity is within the above-described range, it becomes possible to obtain an improvement in quality, such as glideability. Sphericity is calculated by observing particles through a scanning electron microscope, measuring the longest and shortest diameters of 30 random particles, and then substituting the measurements into the equation described below:

where S: Sphericity, n: the number of measurements (= 30), Ds: the smallest diameter of the single particle, DL: the largest diameter of the single particle.

[0040] A suitable commercial microparticle of PLA is sold by Toray Industries Inc. under the name Toraypearl® PLA (example isononyl isononanoate oil uptake value is 465.9 ml/100 g).

HYDROPHOBIC SILICA AEROGEL PARTICLES

[0041] The amount of hydrophobic silica airgel present in the compositions will typically be at least 0.005%, or at least 0.01, 0.05, or 0.10%. Typically it will be at most 0.70% or at most 0.5, 0.3 or 0.2%.

[0042] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

[0043] They are usually synthesized through a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most common being supercritical CO2. This type of drying prevents the pores and material from shrinking. The sol-gel process and the various drying processes are described in detail in Brinker CJ. E Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990.

[0044] The hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2/g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2/g and better still from 600 to 800 m2 /g and a size expressed as the mean diameter of the volume (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 30 μm, preferably from 5 to 25 μm, even better from 5 to 20 μm and even better from 5 to 15 μm .

[0045] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the BET nitrogen absorption method (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) described in the Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The specific surface area of BET corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.

[0046] Silica airgel particle size can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer such as Malvern's MasterSizer 2000 machine. Data are processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an “effective” diameter of the particles. This theory is especially described in Van de Hulst, H.C.'s publication, "Light scattering by small particles", chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0047] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g and a size expressed as the mean diameter of the volume (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 μm and even better from 5 to 15 μm.

[0048] The silica airgel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a tap density r) ranging from 0.04 g/cm3 to 0.10 g/cm3 and preferably from 0.05 g/cm3 to 0.08 g /cm3.

[0049] In the context of the present invention, this density, known as tapped density, can be evaluated according to the following protocol: (i) 40 g of powder is poured into a measuring cylinder; the measuring cylinder is then placed in a Stav 2003 machine from Stampf Volumeter; the measuring cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 packing movements (this operation is repeated until the volume difference between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of packed powder is measured directly on the measuring cylinder. The tapped density is determined by the ratio m/Vf, in this case 40/Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and m in g).

[0050] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume Sv ranging from 5 to 60 m2/cm3, preferably from 10 to 50 m2/cm3 and even better from 15 to 40 m2/cm3.

[0051] The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relationship: Sv = SM.r where r is the tapped density expressed in g/cm3 and SM is the specific surface area per unit mass expressed in m2/g, as defined above.

[0052] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and even better from 8 to 12 ml/g.

[0053] The oil absorption capacity measured at the wet point, particularly Wp, corresponds to the amount of water that needs to be added to 100 g of particle to obtain a homogeneous paste.

[0054] It is measured according to the wet spot method or the method for determining the oil absorption of a powder described in NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder, measuring the wet point, described below: An amount m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is then added dropwise. After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mixing is carried out using a spatula and the addition of oil is continued until a conglomerate of oil and powder forms. At this point, the oil is added one drop at a time and the mixture is crushed with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a smooth and firm paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in mL) of oil used is then noted. The oil uptake corresponds to the Vs/m ratio.

[0055] The aerogels used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name: silylate silica).

[0056] The term "hydrophobic silica" means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane or silazanes, in order to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si -Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

[0057] With respect to the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that have been surface modified by silylation, reference may be made to US 7,470,725.

[0058] In particular, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles with surface modified trimethylsilyl groups will be used.

[0059] As hydrophobic silica airgels that can be used in the invention, examples that can be mentioned include the airgel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size of about 1000 μm and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2/g.

[0060] The aerogels sold by the Cabot company under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203, Enova Aerogel MT 1 100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200 can also be mentioned.

[0061] It will be used more particularly the airgel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size that varies from 5 to 15 μm and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2/g. It has an oil absorption capacity of 1090 mL/100 g based on isononyl isononanoate.

SOLAR FILTERS

[0062] Sunscreens typically constitute at least 10% of the compositions of the invention, or at least 15, 20 or 25%. They typically constitute at most 50% of the compositions, or at most 45, 40 or 35%.

[0063] Suitable sunscreens can be lipophilic or hydrophilic. They can be organic or inorganic. Examples of suitable sunscreens include octocrylene, oxybenzone, benzophenones, homosalate and ethylhexyl salicylate, triazines, dibenzoyl methane derivatives, for example butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone) and combinations thereof. Other examples include ethylhexyl triazone, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, drometrizole trisiloxane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyl phenol and titanium dioxide. Compositions according to the invention typically provide an SPF of at least 30, preferably at least 50, more preferably at least 70, even more preferably at least 80 and most preferably at least 90.

LIPOPHILIC MATERIALS

[0064] As used herein, the term "lipophilic material" means any water-immiscible cosmetic or dermatological organic compound, other than sunscreens, which can be completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid fatty phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form ( e.g. in micellar form) in a liquid grease phase. The lipophilic materials in total typically constitute at least 0.5% of the composition, or at least 1, 3, 5, or 7%. They normally constitute a maximum of 25%, or a maximum of 20, 15, 12 or 10%.

[0065] Lipophilic materials and lipophilic sunscreens together typically constitute at least 10% of the composition, or at least 15, 20 or 25%. They normally constitute at most 90%, or at most 80, 70, 60 or 50%. The lipophilic materials, combined with any lipophilic sunscreens present, can form a lipophilic, fatty or oily phase. This phase can be dispersed (O/W emulsion) or continuous (W/O emulsion).

[0066] Examples of suitable lipophilic materials include fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature (oils), fatty substances that are solid at room temperature (waxes), fatty substances that are semi-solid at room temperature, such as pasty fatty substances or butters. , and mixtures thereof.

[0067] The lipophilic material may include one or more oils.

[0068] Here, "oil" means a compound or fatty substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Like oils, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0069] The oil may be a non-polar oil, such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0070] The oil can be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

[0071] As examples of vegetable oils, one can cite, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil and mixtures thereof.

[0072] As examples of animal oils, one can mention, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0073] As examples of synthetic oils, one can mention alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

[0074] Ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of linear or branched or saturated or unsaturated C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of atoms being ester carbon greater than or equal to 10.

[0075] Preferably, for esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0076] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprilyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2- ethylhexyl isononanoanoate, isononyl isononononate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0077] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and sugarless dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy C4-C26 alcohols can also be used.

[0078] Special mention may be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; triocyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0079] As ester oils, C6-C30 sugar esters and diesters and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means compounds based on oxygen-containing hydrocarbons containing various alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0080] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as derivatives of methyl, for example methyl glucose.

[0081] The sugar esters of fatty acids can be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 fatty acids and, preferably, C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0082] The esters according to this variant can also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0083] Such esters can be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linolates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate , such as tetraethyl pentaerythryl hexanoate.

[0084] More particularly, monoesters and diesters and especially monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose are used.

[0085] An example that can be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methyl glucose dioleate.

[0086] As examples of preferable ester oils, there can be mentioned, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, propionate myristyl, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethyloctanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprilyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoane, ethylhexyl palmitate , isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl sostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythryl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate and mixtures thereof.

[0087] As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made, for example, of capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, tri(caprate/ glyceryl caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).

[0088] As examples of silicone oils, there can be mentioned, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes, such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, dimethicone, caprylyl methicone and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0089] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0090] These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups linked through a hydrocarbon-based group.

[0091] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0092] When they are volatile, silicones are chosen more particularly from those with a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from: (ii) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold privately under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 from Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 from Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 71 58 from Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 from Rhodia and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials and mixtures thereof. Dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane-type cyclocopolymers can also be mentioned, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, sold by the company Union Carbide, with the formula:

[0093] There may also be mentioned mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2', 2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy) neopentane; and (iii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 x 10 -6 m 2 /sec at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold privately under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445, Appendix C.

[0094] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which one can mainly mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing terminal trimethylsilyl groups.

[0095] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products can be mentioned, without limitation: - Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example, the oil 70 047 V 500 000; - Mirasil® series oils sold by the company Rhodia; - Dow Corning series 200 oils, such as DC200, with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2/s; and - General Electric's Viscasil® oils and certain SF series oils (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0096] It is also possible to mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing final dimethylsilanol groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series oils from the company Rhodia.

[0097] Among the aryl group-containing silicones, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylarylsiloxanes, such as phenyl silicone oil.

em que R1 a R10, independentemente um do outro, são radicais à base de hidrocarbonetos C1-C30 saturados ou insaturados, lineares, cíclicos ou ramificados, preferencialmente radicais à base de hidrocarbonetos C1-C12 e, mais preferencialmente, radicais à base de hidrocarbonetos C1-C6, em particular radicais metila, etila, propila ou butila, e m, n, p e q são, independentemente um do outro, números inteiros de 0 a 900 inclusive, de preferência 0 a 500 inclusive, e mais preferencialmente de 0 a 100 inclusive, com a condição de que a soma n + m + q seja diferente de 0.[0098] The phenyl silicone oil can be chosen among the phenyl silicones of the following formula:

wherein R1 to R10, independently of one another, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably C1-hydrocarbon-based radicals -C6, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, em, n, p and q are, independently of one another, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive, with the condition that the sum n + m + q is not equal to 0.

[0099] Examples that can be mentioned include products sold under the following names: - Rhodia's Silbione® 70 641 series oils; - Rhodia's Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series oils; - Dow Corning's Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil; - Bayer's PK series silicones, such as the PK20 product; - certain General Electric SF series oils such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[00100] As phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (R 1 to R 10 are methyl; p, q and n = 0; m = 1 in the above formula) is preferable.

[00101] Organomodified liquid silicones may contain especially polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. Thus, the KF-6017 silicone proposed by Shin-Etsu and the Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from the Union Carbide company can be mentioned.

[00102] The hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from: - linear or branched C6-C16 lower alkanes, optionally cyclic. Examples which may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam® and squalane.

[00103] As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, there can be mentioned, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g. liquid paraffin), paraffin, petroleum jelly or petrolatum, naphthalenes and the like ; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[00104] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols having 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are included in the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohol can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohol can be linear or branched.

[00105] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be chosen from C12-C20 alkyl and C12-C20 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

[00106] As examples of fatty alcohol, there can be mentioned lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[00107] It is preferred that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.

[00108] Thus, the fatty alcohol may be selected from C6-C30 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably C6-C30 saturated, linear or branched alcohols, and more preferably C12-C20 saturated, linear or branched alcohols .

[00109] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here means an alcohol with a long saturated aliphatic carbon chain. It is preferred that the saturated fatty alcohol be selected from any linear or branched C6-C30 saturated fatty alcohols. Among the linear or branched, saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, the saturated, linear or branched C12-C20 fatty alcohols can preferably be used. Any saturated, linear or branched C16C20 fatty alcohols may be most preferably used. C16-C20 branched fatty alcohols may be even more preferably used.

[00110] As examples of saturated fatty alcohols, there can be mentioned lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as behenyl alcohol, can be used as a saturated fatty alcohol.

[00111] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and mixtures thereof.

[00112] It is preferred that the oil is chosen from hydrocarbon oils, ester oils, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

ORGANIC SOLVENTS

[00113] The compositions of the invention may include one or more organic solvents. If present, they will, in total, typically constitute at least 1% of the composition, or at least 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6%. They will typically constitute a maximum of 20%, or a maximum of 15 or 10%.

[00114] Suitable solvents may include water-soluble solvents. Specific exemplary solvents include ethanol, glycerol (glycerin), 1,3-propanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and caprylyl glycol.

EMULSIFIERS

[00115] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one emulsifier. If two or more emulsifiers are used, they may be the same or different.

[00116] The amount of the emulsifier(s) may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention, provided that the amount of emulsifiers is not zero. The amount of the emulsifier(s) may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, based on weight. total composition.

[00117] Thus, the amount of the emulsifier(s) in the composition according to the present invention may vary from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Typically at least 1% will be present or at least 2 or 3%. Typically a maximum of 7% or 5% will be present.

[00118] The types of emulsifier are not limited. Thus, for example, amphiphilic powder(s) can be used as an emulsifier(s). In this case, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a Pickering emulsion.

[00119] It is preferable that the emulsifier is selected from surfactants.

[00120] Thus, the composition according to the present invention may include at least one surfactant. Two or more surfactants can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of surfactant or a combination of different types of surfactants can be used.

[00121] The surfactant used in the present invention can be selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants and non-ionic surfactants, preferably from non-ionic surfactants.

ANIONIC SURFACTANTS

[00122] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one anionic surfactant. Two or more anionic surfactants may be used in combination.

[00123] It is preferred that the anionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of (C6-C30) alkyl sulfates, (C6-C30) alkyl ether sulfates, (C6-C30) alkyl starch sulfates, polyether alkylaryl sulfates , monoglyceride sulfates; alkyl (C6-C30) sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates (Cβ-Cao), alkylaryl (Cβ-Cao) sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; (C6-C30) alkyl phosphates; (C6-C30) alkyl sulfosuccinates, (C6-C30) alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, (C6-C30) alkylamide sulfosuccinates; (C6-C30) alkyl sulfoacetates; acyl sarcosinates (C6-C24); acyl glutamates (C6-C24); carboxylic ethers of alkylpolyglycosides (C6C30); alkylpolyglycoside (C6-C30) sulfosuccinates, (C6-C30) alkyl sulfosuccinamates; acyl isocyanates (C6-C24); N-acyl(C6-C24) taurates; C6-C30 fatty acid salts; acid salts of coconut oil or acid salts of hydrogenated coconut oil; acyl lactylates (C6-C24); (C6-C30)alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acid salts; polyoxyalkylated (C6-C30) alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts; (C6-C30) alkylaryl acid salts; polyoxyalkylenated carboxyalkyl ether; and polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic ether (C6-C30) alkylamido acid salts; and corresponding acid forms.

[00124] In at least one embodiment, the anionic surfactants are in the form of salts, such as alkali metal salts, for example sodium; alkaline earth metal salts, for example magnesium; ammonium salts; amine salts; and amino alcohol salts. Depending on the conditions, they can also be in acidic form.

[00125] It is more preferable that the anionic surfactant is selected from salts of (C6-C30) alkyl sulfate, (C6-C30) alkyl ether sulfates or (C6-C30) alkyl ether carboxylic acid sulfates, salified or unsalted. .

AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANTS

[00126] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant. Two or more amphoteric surfactants may be used in combination.

[00127] Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be, for example (non-limiting list), amine derivatives, such as secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine, and optionally quaternized amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic radical is a straight or branched chain including 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (e.g. carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate).

[00128] The amphoteric surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of betaines and carboxylated amidoamino derivatives.

[00129] It is preferable that the amphoteric surfactant is selected from betaine-type surfactants.

[00130] The amphoteric surfactant of the betaine type is preferably selected from the group consisting of alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines and alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, in particular alkylbetaines (C8-C24), alkylamido (C8-C24) alkylbetaines (C1-C8) ), sulfobetaines and (C8-C24) alkylamido (C1-C8) alkylsulfobetaines. In one embodiment, the betaine-type amphoteric surfactants are chosen from (C8-C24) alkylbetaines, (C8-C24) alkylamido (C1-C8) alkylsulfobetaines, sulfobetaines and phosphobetaines.

[00131] Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include compounds classified in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook, 15th edition, 2014 under the names cocobetaine, laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine, coco/oleamidopropylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, palmitamidopropylbetaine, stearamidopropylbetaine, cocamidoethylbetheine, cocoamidopropylhydroxysultaine , oleamidopropylhydroxysultaine, cocohydroxysultaine, laurylhydroxysultaine and cocosultaine, alone or as mixtures.

[00132] The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably an alkylbetaine and an alkylamidoalkylbetaine, in particular cocobetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.

[00133] Among the amidoaminocarboxylated derivatives, products sold under the name Miranol, as described in U.S. Pat. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA Dictionary, 3rd Edition, 1982 (the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference), under the names Amphocarboxyglycinates and Amphocarboxypropionates, with the respective structures: R1-CONHCH2CH2-N+(R2)(R3)(CH2COO-) M+ X-(B1) where: R1 denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R1-COOH present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R2 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group, R3 denotes a carboxymethyl group, M denotes a cationic ion derived from alkali metals, such as sodium; ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine; X- denotes an organic or inorganic anionic ion, such as halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl sulfates (C1-C4), alkyl (C1-C4) or alkyl (C1-C4) aryl sulfonates, particularly methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate or M+ and X- are not present; R1'-CONHCH2CH2-N (B)(C) (B2) where: R1' denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R1'-COOH present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, as a radical C7, C9, C11 or C13 alkyl, a C17 alkyl radical and its isoform or an unsaturated C17 radical, B represents -CH2CH2OX', C represents -(CH2)z-Y', with z = 1 or 2, X' denotes a group - CH2-COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ' or a hydrogen atom, and Y' denotes -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2-CHOH-SO3Z' , -CH2-CHOH- SO3H, or a -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z' radical, wherein Z' represents an alkali or alkaline earth metal ion, such as sodium, an ion derived from an organic amine, or an ammonium ion ; and Ra”-NH-CH(Y”)-(CH2)nC(O)-NH-(CH2)n'-N (Rd) (Re) (B'2) where: Y” denotes -C(O )OH, -C(O)OZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3H or -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z”, where Z” denotes a cationic ion derived from alkali metals or alkali metals- earthy, such as sodium, an organic amine-derived ion, or an ammonium ion; Rd and Re represent a C1-C4 alkyl or C1C4 hydroxyalkyl radical; Ra" denotes a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group from an acid, and n and n' independently represent an integer from 1 to 3.

[00134] It is preferred that the amphoteric surfactant of formula B1 and B2 is selected from alkyl amphomonoacetates (C8-C24), alkyl amphodiacetates (C8-C24), alkyl amphomonopropionates (C8-C24), and amphodipropionates of (C8-C24) alkyl.

[00135] These compounds are classified in the CTFA Dictionary, 5th Edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphopropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionic acid. , and

[00136] By way of example, cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name Miranol® C2M concentrate by the company Rhodia Chimie can be mentioned.

[00137] Among the compounds of formula (B'2), reference can be made to sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide (CTFA) marketed by CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

CATIONIC SURFACTANTS

[00138] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one cationic surfactant. Two or more cationic surfactants may be used in combination.

[00139] The cationic surfactant can be selected from the group consisting of salts of optionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

em que R1, R2, R3 e R4, que podem ser idênticos ou diferentes, são escolhidos a partir de radicais alifáticos lineares e ramificados, incluindo de 1 a 30 átomos de carbono e, opcionalmente, incluindo heteroátomos como oxigênio, nitrogênio, enxofre e halogênios. Os radicais alifáticos podem ser escolhidos, por exemplo, a partir de radicais alquila, alcoxi, polioxialquileno C2-C6, alquilamida, alquilamido (C12-C22) alquila (C2-C6), alquilacetato (C12-C22), hidroxialquila; e radicais aromáticos tais como arila e alquilarila; e X- é escolhido a partir de haletos, fosfatos, acetatos, lactatos, sulfatos de alquila (C2-C6) e alquil- ou alquilaril-sulfonatos; sais quaternários de imidazolina de amônio, por exemplo os de fórmula (B4) abaixo:

em que: R5 é escolhido a partir de radicais alquenila e alquila incluindo de 8 a 30 átomos de carbono, por exemplo derivados de ácidos graxos de sebo ou de coco; R6 é escolhido a partir de hidrogênio, radicais alquila C1-C4 e radicais alquenila e alquila incluindo de 8 a 30 átomos de carbono; R7 é escolhido a partir de radicais alquila C1-C4; R8 é escolhido a partir de os hidrogênio e radicais alquila C1-C4; e X- é escolhido a partir de haletos, fosfatos, acetatos, lactatos, alquil sulfatos, alquil sulfonatos e alquilaril sulfonatos. Em uma forma de realização, R5 e R6 são, por exemplo, uma mistura de radicais escolhidos a partir de radicais alquenila e alquila, incluindo 12 a 21 átomos de carbono, como derivados de ácido graxo do sebo, R7 é metila e R8 é hidrogênio. Exemplos desses produtos incluem, mas não estão limitados a, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) e Quaternium- 83 (CTFA 1997), que são vendidos sob os nomes “Rewoquat®” W75, W90, W75PG e W75HPG pela empresa Witco;[00140] Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to:

wherein R1, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched aliphatic radicals including from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally including heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens . The aliphatic radicals can be chosen, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxy-C2-C6 alkylene, alkylamide, (C12-C22) alkylamido (C2-C6) alkyl, (C12-C22) alkylacetate, hydroxyalkyl radicals; and aromatic radicals such as aryl and alkylaryl; and X- is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C2-C6) alkyl sulfates and alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates; quaternary ammonium imidazoline salts, for example those of formula (B4) below:

wherein: R5 is chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow or coconut fatty acids; R6 is chosen from hydrogen, C1-C4 alkyl radicals and alkenyl and alkyl radicals including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; R7 is chosen from C1-C4 alkyl radicals; R8 is chosen from hydrogen and C1-C4 alkyl radicals; and X- is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates and alkylaryl sulfonates. In one embodiment, R5 and R6 are, for example, a mixture of radicals chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals, including 12 to 21 carbon atoms, as fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R7 is methyl and R8 is hydrogen. . Examples of these products include, but are not limited to, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) and Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are sold under the names “Rewoquat®” W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG by the Witco company;

em que: R9 é escolhido a partir de radicais alifáticos incluindo 16 a 30 átomos de carbono; R10 é escolhido a partir de hidrogênio ou radicais alquila, incluindo 1 a 4 átomos de carbono ou um grupo -(CH2)3(R16a)(R17a)(R18a)N+X-; R11, R12, R13, R14, R1 6a, R17a e R18a, que podem ser idênticos ou diferentes, são escolhidos a partir de radicais hidrogênio e alquila, incluindo de 1 a 4 átomos de carbono; e X é escolhido a partir de haletos, acetatos, fosfatos, nitratos, etil sulfatos e metil sulfatos.[00141] Di or tri-quaternary ammonium salts of formula (B5):

wherein: R9 is chosen from aliphatic radicals including 16 to 30 carbon atoms; R10 is chosen from hydrogen or alkyl radicals, including 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a -(CH2)3(R16a)(R17a)(R18a)N+X- group; R11, R12, R13, R14, R16a, R17a and R18a, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl radicals, including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and X is chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethyl sulfates and methyl sulfates.

em que: R22 é escolhido a partir de radicais alquila C1-C6 e radicais hidroxialquila e dihidroxialquila C1-C6; R23 é escolhido a partir de: o radical abaixo:

radicais R27 à base de hidrocarbonetos C1-C22 lineares e ramificados, saturados e insaturados e hidrogênio, R25 escolhido a partir de: o radical abaixo:

radicais R29 à base de hidrocarbonetos C1-C6 lineares e ramificados, saturados e insaturados e hidrogênio, R24, R26 e R28, que podem ser idênticos ou diferentes, são escolhidos a partir de radicais à base de hidrocarbonetos C7-C21 lineares e ramificados, saturados e insaturados; r, s e t, que podem ser idênticos ou diferentes, são escolhidos a partir de números inteiros que variam de 2 a 6; cada um de r1 e t1, que pode ser idêntico ou diferente, é 0 ou 1 e r2 + r1 = 2r e t1 + 2t = 2t; y é escolhido a partir de números inteiros que variam de 1 a 10; x e z, que podem ser idênticos ou diferentes, são escolhidos a partir de números inteiros que variam de 0 a 10; X- é escolhido a partir de ânions simples e complexos, orgânicos e inorgânicos; com a condição de que a soma x + y + z varia de 1 a 15, que quando x é 0, R23 denota R27 e que quando z é 0, R25 denota R29. R22 pode ser escolhido a partir de radicais alquila lineares e ramificados. Em uma forma de realização, R22 é escolhido a partir de radicais alquila lineares. Em outra forma de realização, R22 é escolhido a partir de radicais metila, etila, hidroxietila e dihidroxipropila, por exemplo metila e etila. Em uma forma de realização, a soma x + y + z varia de 1 a 10. Quando R23 é um radical R27 à base de hidrocarboneto, ele pode ser longo e incluir de 12 a 22 átomos de carbono, ou curto e incluir de 1 a 3 átomos de carbono. Quando R25 é um radical R29 à base de hidrocarboneto, pode incluir, por exemplo, de 1 a 3 átomos de carbono. A título de exemplo não limitativo, em uma forma de realização, R24, R26 e R28, que podem ser idênticos ou diferentes, são escolhidos a partir de radicais à base de hidrocarbonetos C11-C21 lineares e ramificados, saturados e insaturados, por exemplo, radicais alquila e alquenila C11-C21 à base de hidrocarbonetos, saturados e insaturados, lineares e ramificados. Em outra forma de realização, x e z, que podem ser idênticos ou diferentes, são 0 ou 1. Numa forma de realização, y é igual a 1. Em outra forma de realização, r, s e t, que podem ser idênticos ou diferentes, são iguais a 2 ou 3, por exemplo, iguais a 2. O ânion X- pode ser escolhido a partir de, por exemplo, haletos, tais como cloreto, brometo e iodeto; e sulfatos de alquila C1-C4, como sulfato de metila. No entanto metanossulfonato, fosfato, nitrato, tosilato, um ânion derivado de um ácido orgânico, como acetato e lactato, e qualquer outro ânion compatível com o amônio incluindo uma função éster, são outros exemplos não limitativos de ânions que podem ser utilizados de acordo com a presente invenção. Em uma forma de realização, o ânion X- é escolhido a partir de cloreto e sulfato de metila.[00142] An example of such a diquaternary ammonium salt is FINQUAT CT-P from FINETEX (Quaternium-89) or FINQUAT CT (Quaternium-75); and quaternary ammonium salts, including at least one ester function, such as those of formula (B6) below:

wherein: R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl radicals and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl and dihydroxyalkyl radicals; R23 is chosen from: the radical below:

R27 radicals based on linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbons and hydrogen, R25 chosen from: the radical below:

radicals R29 based on linear and branched C1-C6 hydrocarbons, saturated and unsaturated and hydrogen, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from radicals based on linear and branched C7-C21 hydrocarbons, saturated and unsaturated; r, set, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 2 to 6; each of r1 and t1, which may be identical or different, is 0 or 1 and r2 + r1 = 2r and t1 + 2t = 2t; y is chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 10; x and z, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 10; X- is chosen from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z ranges from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, R23 denotes R27, and that when z is 0, R25 denotes R29. R22 may be chosen from linear and branched alkyl radicals. In one embodiment, R22 is chosen from linear alkyl radicals. In another embodiment, R22 is chosen from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl and dihydroxypropyl radicals, for example methyl and ethyl. In one embodiment, the sum x + y + z ranges from 1 to 10. When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based R27 radical, it may be long and include from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and include from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R25 is a hydrocarbon-based R29 radical, it may include, for example, from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. By way of non-limiting example, in one embodiment, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example, C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals based on hydrocarbons, saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched. In another embodiment, x and z, which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1. In one embodiment, y is equal to 1. In another embodiment, r, set, which may be identical or different, are equal a 2 or 3, for example equal to 2. The anion X- may be chosen from, for example, halides such as chloride, bromide and iodide; and C1-C4 alkyl sulfates, such as methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate and lactate, and any other ammonium-compatible anion including an ester function are other non-limiting examples of anions that can be used in accordance with the present invention. In one embodiment, the X- anion is chosen from methyl chloride and sulfate.

metila, etila e radicais à base de hidrocarboneto C14-C22, hidrogênio; R25 é escolhido a partir de: o radical abaixo:

e hidrogênio; R24, R26 e R28, que podem ser idênticos ou diferentes, são escolhidos a partir de radicais à base de hidrocarbonetos C13-C17 lineares e ramificados, saturados e insaturados, por exemplo, radicais alquila e alquenila C13-C17 lineares e ramificados, saturados e insaturados.[00143] In another embodiment, ammonium salts of formula (B6) can be used, wherein: R22 is chosen from methyl and ethyl radicals, x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; r, if t are equal to 2; R23 is chosen from: the radical below:

methyl, ethyl and C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals, hydrogen; R25 is chosen from: the radical below:

and hydrogen; R24, R26 and R28, which may be the same or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example linear and branched C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals, saturated and unsaturated.

[00144] In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.

[00145] Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (B6) which may be mentioned include salts, for example methyl chloride and sulfate, of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, of triacyloxyethyl- methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethyl-ammonium and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl radicals can include from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and can be derived, for example, from a vegetable oil, for example palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound includes multiple acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.

[00146] These products can be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated in fatty acids or in mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification may be followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; chlorohydrin glycol; and glycerol chlorohydrin.

[00147] These compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart®, from the company Cognis, Stepanquat®, from the company Stepan, Noxamium®, from the company Ceca, and “Rewoquat® WE 18”, from the company Rewo-Goldschmidt.

[00148] Other non-limiting examples of ammonium salts that can be used in the composition according to the present invention include ammonium salts, including at least one ester function described in US Patents 4,874,554 and 4,137,180.

[00149] The above-mentioned quaternary ammonium salts which can be used in the composition according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, those corresponding to formula (I), for example tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for example dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and alkyltrimethylammonium, in which the alkyl moiety includes from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride; palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, sold under the name “Ceraphyl® 70” by the Van Dyk company.

[00150] According to one embodiment, the cationic surfactant that can be used in the composition according to the present invention is chosen from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Quaternium-83, Quaternium-87, Quaternium-22 , behenylamidopropyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.

NON-IONIC SURFACTANTS

[00151] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one non-ionic surfactant. Two or more non-ionic surfactants can be used in combination.

[00152] Nonionic surfactants are compounds well known in their own right (see, for example, in this regard, “Handbook of Surfactants”, by M. R. Porter, editors Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116- 178). Thus, they can, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and esters of fatty acids, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, it being possible that the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups varies from 2 to 50 and that the number of glycerol groups varies from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned. Non-limiting mention can also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide; ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide condensates with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerol fatty amides comprising, for example, from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; sucrose fatty acid esters; polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters; mono or diesters of polyethoxylated fatty acids of glycerol (C6-C24) alkylpolyglycosides; N-alkylglucamine derivatives (C6-C24); amine oxides such as alkylamine oxides (C10-C14) or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides (C10-C14); silicone surfactants; and mixtures thereof.

[00153] The non-ionic surfactants can preferably be chosen from non-ionic monooxyalkylated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated non-ionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, and are preferably oxyethylene units.

[00154] Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include: - monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated (C8-C24) alkylphenols, - monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, linear or branched C8-C30 alcohols, - C8-C30 monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated amides, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, - esters of C8-C30 polyalkylene glycols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, - esters of C8-C30 acids and monooxyalkylened or polyoxyalkylenated, saturated or unsaturated, sorbitol , linear or branched, - monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated, saturated or unsaturated, vegetable oils, condensates of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide, among others, alone or as mixtures.

[00155] The surfactants preferably contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide between 1 and 100 and more preferably between 2 and 50. According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the non-ionic polyoxyalkylenated surfactants are chosen from polyoxyethylene fatty alcohol (polyethylene glycol fatty alcohol ether) and polyoxyethylene fatty ester (polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester).

[00156] Examples of polyoxyethylene saturated fatty alcohol (or C8-C30 alcohols) that may be mentioned include the adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene units, and more particularly those containing from 10 to 12 oxyethylene units (Laureth-10 to Laureth-12, like the CTFA names); ethylene oxide adducts with behenyl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene units (Beheneth-9 to Beheneth-50, as the CTFA names); ethylene oxide adducts with cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially those containing 10 to 30 oxyethylene units (Ceteareth-10 to Ceteareth-30, as CTFA names); ethylene oxide adducts with cetyl alcohol, especially those containing 10 to 30 oxyethylene units (Ceteth-10 to Ceteth-30, as the CTFA names); ethylene oxide adducts with stearyl alcohol, especially those containing 10 to 30 oxyethylene units (Steareth-10 to Steareth-30, as the CTFA names); ethylene oxide adducts with isostearyl alcohol, especially those containing from 10 to 50 oxyethylene units (lsosteareth-10 to lsosteareth-50, as the CTFA names); and mixtures thereof.

[00157] Examples of polyoxyethylene unsaturated fatty alcohol (or C8-C30 alcohols) that may be mentioned include the adducts of ethylene oxide with oleyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units, and more particularly those containing from 10 to 40 oxyethylene units (Oleth-10 to Oleth-40, like the CTFA names); and mixtures thereof.

[00158] As examples of monoglycerated or polyglycerated nonionic surfactants, monoglycerated or polyglycerated C8-C40 alcohols are preferred.

[00159] In particular, C8-C40 monoglycerol or polyglycerol alcohols correspond to the following formula: RO-[CH2-CH(CH2OH)-O]m-H or RO-[CH(CH2OH)-CH2O]m-H in which R represents a radical C8-C40 linear or branched and preferably C8-C30 alkyl or alkenyl, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1.5 to 10.

[00160] As examples of compounds which are suitable in the context of the present invention, there can be mentioned lauryl alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocethyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

[00161] Alcohol can represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that in a commercial product, several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohol can coexist in the form of a mixture.

[00162] Among the monoglycerol or polyglycerol alcohols, it is preferable to use a C8/C10 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, a C10/C12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and a C12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.

[00163] The monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 fatty esters can correspond to the following formula: R'O-[CH2-CH(CH2OR”')-O]mR” or R'O-[CH(CH2OR'”)-CH2O ]mR" wherein each of R' , R" and R'" independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C8-C40 radical and preferably C8-C30 alkyl-CO- or alkenyl-CO-, with the provided that at least one of R', R" and R'" is not a hydrogen atom, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1.5 to 10.

[00164] Examples of polyoxyethylene fatty esters that may be mentioned include the adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene units, as PEG-9 to PEG-50 Laurate (CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); palmitostearate from PEG-9 to PEG-50; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 EO (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.

[00165] According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the non-ionic surfactant can be selected from esters of polyols with fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms , preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms and polyoxyalkylene derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units, such as glyceryl esters of a fatty acid or C8-C24, preferably C12C22, acids and derivatives of polyoxyalkylenes thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200 and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sorbitol esters of a fatty acid or C8-C24, preferably C12-C22 acids, and polyoxyalkylene derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200 and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sugar esters (sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose and/or alkyl glucose) of a fatty acid or C8-C24, preferably C12C22 acids, and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200 and more preferably from 10 to 100 sugar units oxyalkylene; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers and a fatty alcohol or C8-C24, preferably C12-C22 alcohols and mixtures thereof.

[00166] As glyceryl esters of fatty acids, glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or glyceryl tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate), glyceryl laurate or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof may be cited and as polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, mono-, di or triester of fatty acids with a polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (mono-, di- or triester of fatty acids with a polyalkylene glycol glycerol ether), preferably polyoxyethylene glyceryl stearate (mono-, di - and/or tristearate), such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and/or tristearate) may be cited.

[00167] Mixtures of these surfactants, such as, for example, the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glycerin mono and distearate) and stearate potassium marketed under the name TEGIN by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE), can also be used.

[00168] Sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof can be selected from sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate and fatty acid esters and alkoxylated sorbitan containing, for example, from 20 at 100 EO, such as sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), sold by the ICI company under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), sold by the ICI company under the name Span 40 and tristearate of sorbitan 20 EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65), sold by the company ICI under the name Tween 65, polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85) or the compounds marketed under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Uniqema.

[00169] As esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkyl glucose, glucose palmitate, alkyl glucose sesquistearates such as methyl glucose sesquistearate, alkyl glucose palmitates such as methyl glucose palmitate or ethyl glucose, fatty esters of methyl glucoside, the diester of methyl glucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate), the mixed methylglycoside ester and oleic acid/hydroxystaric acid mixture (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxystearate), the methylglycoside isostearate ester (CTFA name: Methyl glucose isostearate), the methylglycoside lauric acid ester (CTFA name: Methyl glucose laurate), the methylglycoside and isostaric acid monoester and diester mixture (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate sesqui-isostearate), the methylglycoside and stearic acid monoester and diester mixture (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the AMERCHOL name Glucate SS and mixtures of the same can be cited.

[00170] As ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkyl glucose, ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and methyl glucose, and in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methyl glucose and stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (name CTFA : PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate), such as the product marketed under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by AMERCHOL, the polyethylene glycol ether of a mixture of monoester and diesters of methyl glucose and stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by AMERCHOL and marketed under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by GOLDSCHMIDT and mixtures thereof, for example.

[00171] As sucrose esters, for example, sucrose palmitostearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate can be cited.

[00172] As sugar ethers, alkylpolyglycosides can be used and, for example, decylglycoside, such as the product marketed under the name MYDOL 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product marketed under the name PLANTAREN 2000 by Henkel and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by Seppic, capryl/capryl glycoside, such as the product marketed under the name ORAMIX CG 110 by Seppic or under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 by BASF, laurylglycoside, such as the products marketed under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N and PLANTACARE 1200 by Henkel , coco-glycoside such as the product marketed under the name PLANTACARE 818/UP from Henkel, the cetostearyl glycoside possibly mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed, for example, under the name MONTANOV 68 from Seppic, under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 from Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302 by Henkel, arachidyl glycoside, e.g. as a mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and arachidyl glycoside marketed under the name MONTAN OV 202 by Seppic, cocoylethylglycoside, for example, in the form of a mixture (35/65) with cetyl and stearyl alcohols, marketed under the name MONTANOV 82 by Seppic, and mixtures thereof may be cited in particular.

[00173] Mixtures of glycerides of alkoxylated vegetable oils can also be mentioned, such as mixtures of ethoxylated palm heart (200 EO) and copra (7 EO).

[00174] The nonionic surfactant according to the present invention preferably contains alkenyl or a branched C12-C22 acyl chain, such as an oleyl or isostearyl group. More preferably, the nonionic surfactant according to the present invention is PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.

[00175] According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the non-ionic surfactant can be selected from copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, in particular copolymers of the following formula: HO(C2H4O)a(C3H6O )b(C2H4O)cH where a, b and c are integers such that a + c ranges from 2 to 100 and b ranges from 14 to 60 and mixtures thereof.

[00176] According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the non-ionic surfactant can be selected from silicone surfactants. Non-limiting mention can be made of those disclosed in US-A-5364633 and US-A-5411744.

em que: R1, R2 e R3, independentemente um do outro, representam um radical alquila C1-C6 ou um radical -(CH2)x-(OCH2CH2)y- (OCH2CH2CH2)z-OR4, pelo menos um radical R1, R2 ou R3 não sendo um radical alquila; R4 sendo um hidrogênio, um radical alquila ou um radical acila; A é um número inteiro que varia de 0 a 200; B é um número inteiro que varia de 0 a 50; com a condição de que A e B não sejam simultaneamente iguais a zero; x é um número inteiro que varia de 1 a 6; y é um número inteiro que varia de 1 a 30; z é um número inteiro que varia de 0 a 5.[00177] The silicone surfactant may preferably be a compound of formula (I):

wherein: R1, R2 and R3, independently of one another, represent a C1-C6 alkyl radical or a -(CH2)x-(OCH2CH2)y-(OCH2CH2CH2)z-OR4 radical, at least one radical R1, R2 or R3 not being an alkyl radical; R4 being a hydrogen, an alkyl radical or an acyl radical; A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200; B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; with the proviso that A and B are not simultaneously equal to zero; x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30; z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.

[00178] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the compound of formula (I), the alkyl radical is a methyl radical, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6 and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.

em que A é um número inteiro que varia de 20 a 105, B é um número inteiro que varia de 2 a 10 e y é um número inteiro que varia de 10 a 20.[00179] As examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), compounds of formula (II) can be mentioned:

where A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10, and y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20.

[00180] As examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), compounds of formula (III) can also be mentioned: H-(OCH2CH2)y-(CH2)3-[(CH3)2SiO]A'-(CH2 )3-(OCH2CH2)y-OH (III) where A' and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.

[00181] The compounds of the present invention that can be used are those sold by the company Dow Corning under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667. The compounds DC 5329, DC 7439146 and DC 2- 5695 are compounds of formula (II) wherein, respectively, A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3 and y is 12.

[00182] Compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III) wherein A is 15 and y is 13.

AUXILIARY INGREDIENTS

[00183] The compositions of the invention may also include, in the aqueous phase and/or the oil phase, any of a variety of auxiliary ingredients or additives (e.g., preservatives). Non-limiting examples of the auxiliary ingredients include dyes, odorants, vitamins (e.g., tocopherol), chelating agents, various active agents, aesthetic modifiers, and preservatives. Non-limiting examples of the preservatives include chlorphenesin, phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol. Exemplary active agents include triethanolamine and tromethamine. Auxiliary ingredients may include amorphous silica microspheres, typically those with an average diameter in the range of 1 μm to 10 μm.

[00184] One or more aesthetic modifiers can be included. If present, the total aesthetic modifiers will typically constitute at least 0.5% of the composition, or at least 1, 1.5, 2, or 2.5%. Typically they will constitute a maximum of 10%, or a maximum of 9, 8, 7 or 6%.

[00185] Examples of aesthetic modifiers include aluminum starch octenyl succinate, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, xanthan gum, cropolymers of acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate, nylon 12 particles, synthetic waxes, ammonium acrylolyldimethyltaurate homopolymers, and acrylolyldimethyltaurate/vinylpyrrolidone copolymers. ammonium.

[00186] Water typically makes up the balance of the composition and typically constitutes at least 10% of the composition, or at least 15, 20 or 25%. It typically constitutes at most 90%, or at most 80, 70, 60 or 50%.

[00187] The compositions according to the invention can be used in a method of caring for a keratin material in an animal, for example, a human or other mammal. That method comprises applying to the keratin material an amount of the composition effective to provide a desired benefit, for example, softening, detangling, coloring, or protection from sun damage or other insults. The keratin material can be hair, nails and/or skin.

PRODUCING THE COMPOSITIONS

[00188] The compositions according to the invention can be prepared by typical emulsification methods known in the art, such as high-shear mixing.

[00189] The aqueous phase contains water-soluble ingredients and water, eg water-soluble preservatives, emollients and emulsifiers, and UV filters. It can be prepared at room temperature with mechanical agitation, typically for about 10 to 30 minutes. The resulting phase is typically translucent.

[00190] The oil phase includes lipophilic ingredients, eg UV filters, solvents, fat soluble emulsifiers, fatty oils and other ingredients that are soluble or heat soluble in the oil phase. The oil phase is typically prepared in a beaker at 75 °C with mechanical agitation until a translucent phase is formed and then cooled to room temperature. Typically, the oil phase includes one or both of the PLA microparticles and the hydrophobic silica airgel particles, although one or both may be added elsewhere when making the emulsion.

[00191] The emulsion is formed by adding the aqueous phase to the oil phase at room temperature under mechanical stirring, after which the stirring is continued for 15 minutes.

EXAMPLES

[00192] Table 1 shows exemplary compositions according to the invention. Composition 10 is a comparative example. Thermal water was extracted from La Roche-Posay. TABLE 1

[00193] The in vivo assessment of the UVA protection factor of inventive compositions 1 and 8 was performed on formulas with SPF 70 according to ISO 24442-2011 (UVA in vivo), and the following results were obtained.

[00194] Composition 1 had an average in vivo UVA-PPD value of 27.2 (+/- 4.5), better than the expected value of 23.33.

[00195] Composition 8 had an average in vivo UVA-PPD value of 29.0 (+/- 0.4), better than the expected value of 23.33.

[00196] The in vivo evaluation of the sun protection factor (SPF) of the inventive compositions 1 and 8 was carried out on five subjects, according to ISO/EN 24444 (UVA in vivo), and the water resistance was evaluated according to with the COLIPA Guidelines for the evaluation of the water resistance of the solar product (Dec 2005). For each composition, an individual Percent Water Resistance Retention (%WRRi) value was calculated according to the formula %WRRi = [(SPFiw-1) * 100]/(SPFis-1) where SPFiw = individual wet SPF after immersion in water SPFis = individual static SPF.

[00197] The lower bound of the one-sided 90% confidence interval [% mean WRR - d] was calculated for each composition.

[00198] Composition 1 had an average FPS of 83.6 and a [% average WRR - d] value of 33.9%.

[00199] Composition 8 had an average FPS of 86.3 and a [% average WRR - d] value of 31.4%.

[00200] Inventive composition 1 and comparative composition 10 were compared through home tests by twelve women for about seven days. Composition 1 was superior in terms of greater dry touch perception, long-lasting matte effect and gloss control, good spreadability texture, absence of white residue and pleasant aroma.

[00201] While the invention is illustrated and described herein with reference to specific embodiments, the invention is not intended to be limited to the details shown. Rather, various modifications may be made to the details within the scope and scope of the equivalents of the claims without departing from the invention.

Claims (17)

1. COMPOSITION, characterized in that it comprises an emulsion with an aqueous phase and a lipophilic phase, wherein the composition comprises water, a hydrophobic silica airgel, porous microparticles of a polylactic acid-based resin, one or more organic solvents, one or more emulsifiers, one or more lipophilic materials and one or more sunscreens, wherein said porous microparticles of the polylactic acid-based resin: - have an enthalpy of fusion of 5 J/g or more, - have an average diameter number of 1 μm to 90 μm particle size, - have a particle diameter distribution index in the range of 1 to 1.5, - have a linseed oil absorption capacity in the range of 90 ml/g to 1000 ml/g, - are present in a range of 0.05% by weight to 1% by weight, and wherein the hydrophobic silica airgel is present in a range of 0.05% by weight to 0.5% by weight. 2. COMPOSITION, according to claim 1, characterized in that the porous microparticles of the polylactic acid-based resin have a sphericity in the range of 80 to 100. A COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the hydrophobic silica airgel is a silica silylate. 4. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the hydrophobic silica airgel has a specific surface area in the range of 500 m2/g to 1500 m2/g, measured by the absorption of BET nitrogen. 5. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the hydrophobic silica airgel has an average volumetric diameter in the range of 1 μm to 100 μm. 6. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that one or more sunscreens are selected from the group consisting of octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, oxybenzone, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, terephthalidene dicamphor sulfonic acid , drometrizole trisiloxane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol and combinations thereof. A COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it further comprises an active compound selected from the group consisting of disodium EDTA, triethanolamine and tromethamine. A COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the one or more lipophilic materials comprise one or more of isononyl isononanoate, diisopropyl sebacate, stearyl alcohol, dimethicone and caprylyl methicone. A COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that one or more organic solvents comprise one or more of ethanol, glycerol, pentylene glycol and caprylyl glycol. A COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it further comprises one or more aesthetic modifiers selected from the group consisting of aluminum starch octenyl succinate, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, xanthan gum, cross-linked acrylates/acrylate polymers. C10-C30 alkyl, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate homopolymers and ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vinylpyrrolidone copolymers. 11. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it further comprises amorphous silica microspheres with an average diameter in the range of 1 μm to 10 μm. A COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the composition provides an SPF of at least 30, preferably at least 50, more preferably at least 70, even more preferably at least 80 and most preferably at least 90. 13. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the lipophilic sunscreens and the one or more lipophilic materials taken together are present in a range of 25% by weight to 50% by weight. 14. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the composition, if subjected to stability tests, shows essentially the same pH, viscosity profile, SEM images and photostability after 2 months of storage immediately after production, for each of storage conditions at 4 °C, at room temperature and at 45 °C. A METHOD OF CARING FOR A KERATIN MATERIAL IN AN ANIMAL, comprising applying to the keratin material an effective amount of the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14. 16. METHOD, according to claim 15, characterized in that the keratin material is skin. 17. METHOD FOR PREPARING THE COMPOSITION, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it comprises the steps of: a) preparing an oil phase comprising the lipophilic materials, the porous microparticles of a polylactic acid-based resin and the hydrophobic silica airgel particles; and b) at room temperature and under mechanical agitation, adding to the oil phase an aqueous phase comprising water and one or more emulsifiers.