BR102016011784B1 - ANTI-SIGN COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND COMPOSITION SYSTEM - Google Patents

Abstract

cosmetic anti-signal composition and composition system The present invention deals with cosmetic anti-signal compositions, with a gel-cream texture, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising sensory ingredients suitable for complete skin treatment, also having specific benefits that complement each other for the day and for the night.

Description

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[1] The present invention deals with anti-signal cosmetic compositions, with a gel-cream texture, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising sensory ingredients suitable for complete skin treatment, also having specific benefits that complement each other for day and night.

PRIOR ART

[2] Skin aging is a result of several factors. In addition to the genetic predisposition of each person, there are external factors and factors related to the style and quality of life, in which our body, including the skin, undergoes changes and slowdowns in various physiological processes.

[3] It is known that around the age of thirty, there are six main physiological mechanisms of the skin that are compromised, and it is possible to notice some signs of skin aging.

[4] The mechanisms affected are: 1. cell renewal; 2. skin's defense systems against free radicals, which can cause cellular energy loss; 3. repetition of facial expression movements causes the formation of microtension creases in the skin; 4. loss of the skin's natural moisture barrier; 5. reduction of the skin's elastic system precursors; 6. reduction of skin collagen precursors.

[5] Among these external factors, environmental conditions exert considerable influence on the functioning of the body in general, as the human body works rhythmically, executing cycles associated with the passage of time (for example, day and night).

[6] Within chronobiology (science that studies biological phenomena from a chronological point of view) there are several rhythms associated with their duration, including the circadian rhythm, cycles that complete each 24 hours.

[7] The skin does not “perceive” light variations, however, it is subject to environmental agents such as temperature, humidity, mechanical and biological agents.

[8] Some skin mechanisms provide more robust scientific information about daily variations, for example: • Transepidermal water loss, subcutaneous blood flow intensity, and skin amino acid content: these phenomena are more pronounced at night; • Secretion from the sebaceous glands: the production of sebum and fat is higher during the day with a peak at midday; • Skin temperature: skin temperature varies according to the measured location; the temperature of the skin on the forearm is at its highest in the late afternoon, while on the face it is at its highest in the morning; at night, the skin temperature is lower. • Cell proliferation capacity, greater around 23:00 and minimal around 12:00. • Cellular healing mechanisms: most of the genes mapped related to this mechanism have peak activity during the day; • Leukocyte differentiation and cytokine production for immune response: most of the mapped genes related to this mechanism have peak activity during the day.

[9] Therefore, the effect of a treatment may vary, and be dependent on the time of administration. Factors such as absorption, metabolizing capacity, storage and affinity of a compound for cellular receptors can vary according to circadian rhythms.

[10] In order to renew and recover the skin's energy, it is not enough to treat just one of the causes of the problem, but to act on all of them. For this, the anti-signal treatment must act on the maintenance, stimulation and more effective regulation of the production of substances that make up the skin, more intense cell renewal, recovery of natural hydration, combined with more powerful prevention against the main aggressor mechanisms.

[11] Existing products only address some specific points, but never all of the above mechanisms at the same time.

[12] Therefore, there is a need for a composition that acts on all of these mechanisms simultaneously, providing an effective treatment for skin care.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

[13] Figure 1 presents a graph with the averages of the variation in transepidermal water loss from the skin obtained at the beginning of the study and after 7, 14 and 28 days of use of the compositions according to example 1 (day), in relation to the control.

[14] Figure 2 presents a graph with the averages of the variation in transepidermal skin water loss obtained at the beginning of the study and after 7, 14 and 28 days of use of the compositions according to example 2 (night), in relation to the control.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[15] The present invention deals with cosmetic anti-signal compositions, with a gel-cream texture, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, capable of treating the six main physiological mechanisms of the skin simultaneously, bringing prolonged benefits with progressive results during the treatment.

[16] The six major physiological mechanisms according to the present invention include: 1. cell renewal; 2. cell power protection; 3. relaxation of skin microtensions; 4. recovery of the natural hydration barrier; 5. elastin stimulation; and 6. collagen stimulation. Hereinafter, such mechanisms will be referred to as “six main physiological mechanisms of the skin”.

[17] Another object of the present invention is a system of anti-sign cosmetic compositions, which are complementary for use during the day and night, which have active ingredients suitable for each period.

[18] Suitable active ingredients for each period in the present invention refer to sunscreens, actives with antioxidant action and prolonged hydration for the day and actives to stimulate skin regeneration by eliminating toxins and deep nutrition for the night.

[19] Yet another objective of the invention is to provide cosmetic anti-signal compositions that have a cream-gel texture, whose application is easy to spread over the skin, forming an emollient and moisturizing film, without leaving a shiny and oily appearance.

[20] The cream gel texture and its qualities according to the present invention are obtained through the use of emollient esters of low and medium molecular weight and with a high concentration of volatile emollients, which evaporate quickly during application, providing greater spreadability and rapid absorption .

[21] Therefore, the present invention concerns cosmetic compositions with a cream gel texture, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising at least one emollient, at least one antioxidant, at least one humectant, at least one active compound, at least at least one emulsifier, at least one sensory modifier and cosmetically acceptable vehicles.

[22] Emollients, without limiting the scope of the present invention, may be selected from caprylyl methicone, alkyl benzoate with 12 to 15 carbons, dibutyl adipate, dicaprilyl carbonate, isononil isononanoate, dicaprylether, dodecane, ethylhexyl palmitate, ethyl macadamiate, isohexadecane, capric/caprylic triglyceride, butters from Brazilian biodiversity, isoamyl cocoate or their mixtures.

[23] Butters from Brazilian biodiversity can also be used, for example, murumuru butter, which helps in lipid replacement of the skin barrier, providing repair and protection, resulting in reduced water loss and maintenance of the skin's natural hydration. Other butters include those obtained from cocoa, cupuaçu, ucuúba and sapucainha seeds.

[24] Butters assist in lipid replacement of the skin barrier, providing repair and protection, which helps to reduce water loss and maintain the skin's natural hydration for longer.

[25] Antioxidants, without limiting the scope of the present invention, may be selected from butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), tocopherol acetate or natural plant extracts, eg Camellia sinensis (green tea), Theobroma cacao (cocoa) or their mixtures .

[26] The polyphenols contained in green tea extract, mainly, have the ability to interact with cell membranes and protect cells from oxidative processes, thus ensuring the proper functioning and protection of cellular energy, also promoting cell renewal.

[27] Wetting agents, without limiting the scope of the present invention, may be selected from alcohols and/or sugar alcohols, such as glycerol, sorbitol, mannitol or mixtures thereof.

[28] Preferably, the humectant is vegetable glycerin, extracted from palm oil, which aids in surface hydration. This effect, combined with the protection provided by butters, promotes the recovery of the skin's natural moisture barrier.

[29] Active compound in the present invention relates to peptides that are generally synthetic molecules. The active compound of the present invention can be selected from acetyl-2 tetrapeptide, which acts to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, thus promoting the improvement of skin tone and elasticity.

[30] The active compound can also be selected from Hymenaea courbaril extract, a mixture of sodium cocoyl amino acids/sarcosine/potassium aspartate/magnesium aspartate/propylene glycol, a mixture of Paeonia albiflora root extract, phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin, Cichorium intybus root extract or mixtures thereof.

[31] Emulsifiers, without limiting the scope of the present invention, can be selected from at least one of glyceryl citrate, potassium cetylphosphate, PEG-100, acrylates, xanthan gum, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate/PEG-100 mixture, among others known from the state of the art.

[32] It may further comprise a viscosity donor selected from carbopol and/or from the mixture of hydroethylacrylate / copolymer of sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate and squalane and polysorbate 60.

[33] Sensory modifiers, without limiting the scope of the present invention, can be selected from silicones, such as cyclopentasiloxane or dimethicone, or among other compounds such as titanium isopropyl triisostearate, cyclopentasiloxane/dimethicone crospolymers, nylon-12, polymethylsilsesquioxane or mixtures thereof.

[34] Cosmetically acceptable vehicles can be selected from compounds known in the art.

[35] Sunscreens, without limiting the scope of the present invention, can be selected from bemotrizinole (bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine), dimethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, bisoctrizole (TINOSORB M), ethylhexyl triazone, or mixtures thereof.

[36] Actives to stimulate skin regeneration by eliminating toxins in the present invention refer to the extract of Candida saitoana, which stimulates cell detoxification mechanisms through cell autophagy, reducing the accumulation of toxins in the cell. In addition, bisabolol can also be included in the composition, which acts on the mechanisms of damage in the dermis and epidermis, regulating the production of agents that cause microdamages IL-6 and IL-8.

[37] The following examples, without imposing any limitation, illustrate the anti-signal cosmetic compositions according to the present invention, which surprisingly act simultaneously on the six main physiological mechanisms of the skin, promoting deep nutrition, combined with the effect antioxidant and toxin scavenging, particularly when used in the form of a system of complementary compositions for day and night use.

EXAMPLES Example 1. Preparation of cosmetic composition for daytime use

[38] Cosmetic compositions intended for daytime use were produced in the form of cream-gel emulsions of the oil-in-water type, in which oil is the dispersed phase and water is the continuous phase. Both phases were heated to a temperature of 75-80°C, later pouring the oil phase, where the sunscreens are, into the aqueous phase, under agitation for about 10 minutes. Subsequently, the cooling phase of the process began, with the addition of an aqueous phase with polymer neutralizer. When the temperature reached about 60°C, the phase of sensory modifiers (silicones) was added and when the temperature reached 40°C, preservatives, fragrance, sensory modifiers (particles) and the actives sensitive to high temperatures.

Exemplo 2. Preparo das composições para uso durante a noite [40] Composições cosméticas voltadas ao uso noturno foram produzidas na forma de emulsões gel creme do tipo óleo em água, na qual o óleo é a fase dispersa e a água é a fase contínua. Nesse caso, o aquecimento da fase aquosa foi iniciado no recipiente principal até a temperatura de cerca de 75 e cerca de 80°C e, sob agitação, adicionou-se a fase oleosa, sob agitação por cerca de 10 minutos. Posteriormente, iniciou-se a fase de resfriamento do processo, com adição de uma fase aquosa com neutralizador dos polímeros. Quando a temperatura atingiu cerca de 60°C, adicionou-se a fase dos modificadores de sensorial (silicones) e quando a temperatura atingiu cerca de 40°C, adicionaram-se os conservantes, fragrância, modificadores de sensorial (partículas) e os ativos sensíveis a altas temperaturas.[39] The following table illustrates cosmetic compositions according to the present invention thus produced: Table 1. Anti-Signal Cosmetic Compositions for Day Use

Example 2. Preparation of compositions for overnight use [40] Cosmetic compositions intended for night use were produced in the form of cream-gel emulsions of the oil-in-water type, in which oil is the dispersed phase and water is the continuous phase. In that case, heating of the aqueous phase was started in the main vessel to a temperature of about 75 and about 80°C and, under stirring, the oil phase was added, under stirring for about 10 minutes. Subsequently, the cooling phase of the process began, with the addition of an aqueous phase with polymer neutralizer. When the temperature reached about 60°C, the phase of sensory modifiers (silicones) was added and when the temperature reached about 40°C, preservatives, fragrance, sensory modifiers (particles) and the actives were added sensitive to high temperatures.

[41] The following table illustrates cosmetic compositions according to the present invention thus produced: Table 2. Anti-signal cosmetic compositions for night use

Example 3. Evaluation of skin hydration by corneometry

[42] Volunteers were recruited for an evaluation of the moisturizing effect of the cosmetic compositions according to example 1 of the present invention. 21 research participants completed the study, there were no reports or evidence of adverse reaction during the study.

[43] Research participants were instructed to discontinue the use of any cosmetic product on the forearms until 48 hours before the start of the study.

[44] For the evaluation, two 2.5 x 4.0 cm sites were demarcated on the research participant's volar forearm, and one site was used as a control (without application of any products). After the initial corneometry measurements (performed on the Corneometer® 825 and Multiprobe Adapter MPA-5, CKeletronics, Germany), the formulations according to example 1 were applied and the research participants remained in the laboratory to perform measurements after 15 minutes , 4, 6, 8 and 12 hours.

[45] After the 12-hour measurement, the research participants returned home, being instructed not to wet or wash their arms. The next day, they returned to the laboratory to perform another measurement 24 hours after the application.

[46] It was found that the application of the compositions according to example 1 of the present invention kept the skin hydrated for up to 24 hours when compared to the control (skin without application of any products). The application of the compositions according to example 1 of the present invention increased the skin hydration level by up to 62%. All participants showed improvement in skin hydration. Example 4. Evaluation of the anti-signal efficacy of the compositions for use during the day through instrumental measurements under normal conditions of use

[47] A study was carried out to verify the effectiveness of a formulations of example 1 according to the present invention in reducing wrinkles and improving skin texture.

[48] The volunteers remained at rest in a room with controlled temperature and humidity for 30 minutes before the initial measurements and between measurements. The application was made once a day on the face and neck, evenly, after cleaning the skin.

[49] On the initial day, after 14 days, and after 28 days, 7 consecutive images of the periorbital region were obtained with the Optical 3D Skin Measuring Device PRIMOS Compact 5.075, for the evaluation of wrinkles/texture on one side of the face and 3 images (front and sides) using the Visia CR equipment (Canfield Scientific, Inc.) used for recording.

[50] The analysis of the images obtained allowed to conclude that the compositions according to example 1 of the present invention promoted a reduction in the volume of wrinkles, a reduction in the average depth of wrinkles and a reduction in the maximum roughness of the wrinkles after fourteen days of use. Example 5. Evaluation of the anti-signal efficacy of cosmetic compositions for overnight use by means of instrumental measurements under normal conditions of use

[51] The evaluated cosmetic compositions are in accordance with example 2 of the present invention, the methodology used is the same as in example 4, except that the measurements were performed during the initial date, after 14 days, after 28 days and after 56 days.

[52] The analysis of the images obtained allowed to conclude that the cosmetic compositions according to example 2 of the present invention promoted a reduction in the volume of wrinkles, a reduction in the average depth of wrinkles and an improvement in undulation after fifty-six days of use. Example 6. Evaluation of the skin barrier fortifying effect provided by the use of cosmetic compositions for daytime use

[53] A study was carried out to evaluate the effect of the compositions according to example 1 of the present invention in fortifying the skin barrier.

[54] Volunteers were instructed to discontinue use of any topical products on the forearms for 48 hours prior to the start of the study.

[55] The methodology consisted of evaluating the transepidermal water loss from the skin after a process of partial removal of the stratum corneum. Measurements were taken at the beginning of the study and after 7, 14 and 28 days of using the compositions according to example 1 of the present invention.

[56] To assess the effect of fortifying the skin barrier, a process called tape-stripping was used, in which 30 repetitions of application and removal of transparent medical adhesive tape were performed at demarcated sites on the volar forearm, followed by measurement of transepidermal loss of water (Tewameter® 300 and Multiprobe Adapter MPA-5, CKeletronics, Germany). The application of the compositions is made only on one forearm, making the other the control, that is, without applying any topically applied products.

[57] From the raw values of TEWL (trans epidermal water loss), called E, the variation in transepidermal water loss was calculated as a function of the removal of layers of the stratum corneum (ΔE).

[58] Where: ΔE = Variation in transepidermal water loss from the skin; i = 0, 7, 14 or 28 days. ET30 = TEWL value after 30 layer removals from the stratum corneum. ET0 = TEWL value measured on intact skin; x = control or formulation used.

[59] The analysis of the results is displayed in the graph shown in Figure 1.

[60] The results obtained allow us to conclude that the formulations conferred a significant effect of strengthening the skin barrier when compared to the control after 14 and 28 days of home use. Example 7. Evaluation of the skin barrier fortifying effect provided by the use of the compositions for overnight use

[61] The formulations to be evaluated are in accordance with example 2 of the present invention, the methodology used is the same as in example 6. The measurements and calculations were performed in the same way as explained in the previous example.

[62] The analysis of the results is displayed in the graph shown in Figure 2.

[63] The results obtained allow us to conclude that the formulations conferred a significant effect of strengthening the skin barrier when compared to the control after 14 and 28 days of home use.

[64] The person in the art will readily know how to evaluate, through the teachings contained in the text and in the examples presented, advantages of the invention and propose variations and equivalent alternatives of realization, without departing from the scope of the invention, as defined in the appended claims.

Claims (12)

1. Anti-signal cosmetic composition, characterized in that it is an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: a) at least one emollient; b) at least one of the antioxidants butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), tocopherol acetate, Camellia Sinensis extract (tea green) and Theobroma cacao (cocoa) or mixtures thereof; c) at least one humectant; d) at least one of the active compounds acetyl-2 tetrapeptide extract of Hymenaea courbaril, a mixture of sodium cocoyl amino acids/sarcosine/potassium aspartate/aspartate magnesium/propylene glycol, a mixture of Paeonia albiflora root extract, phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin, Cichorium intybus root extract or mixtures thereof; e) at least one emulsifier; f) at least one sensory modifier; eg) cosmetically acceptable vehicles. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the emollient is selected from the group consisting of caprylyl methicone, alkyl benzoate with 12 to 15 carbons, dibutyl adipate, dicaprilyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, dicapryl ether, dodecane, ethylhexyl palmitate, ethyl macadamiate, isohexadecane, capric/caprylic triglyceride, butters from Brazilian biodiversity, isoamyl cocoate or their mixtures. 3. Composition, according to claim 2, characterized in that the butter from Brazilian biodiversity is selected from the group consisting of murumuru, cocoa, cupuaçu, ucuúba, sapucainha, or their mixtures. 4. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the humectant is selected from the group consisting of glycols, glycerol, sorbitol, mannitol or their mixtures. 5. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of glyceryl citrate, potassium cetylphosphate, PEG-100, acrylates, xanthan gum, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate/PEG- 100 or mixtures thereof. 6. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it further comprises a viscosity donor selected from carbopol and/or from the mixture of hydroethylacrylate / copolymer of sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate and squalane and polysorbate 60. 7. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the sensory modifier is selected from the group consisting of cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane/dimethicone crospolymers and titanium isopropyl triisostearate, nylon-12, polymethylsilsesquioxane or their mixtures. 8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it further comprises at least sunscreen. 9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the sunscreen is selected from the group consisting of bemotrizinole, dimethylamino, hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, bisoctrizola, ethylhexyl triazone or mixtures thereof. 10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it further comprises an active compound to stimulate skin regeneration. 11. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the active compound to stimulate skin regeneration is selected from Candida saitoana extract and bisabolol or their mixtures. 12. Composition system, characterized in that it comprises a composition for application during the day, as defined in claim 8 or 9, and a composition for application at night, as defined in claim 10 or 11.

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