WO2009036924A1

WO2009036924A1 - Method for reducing wrinkles

Info

Publication number: WO2009036924A1
Application number: PCT/EP2008/007482
Authority: WO
Inventors: Margaret Horton; Nils Hoffmann; Sören JASPERS; Stefan Heuser; Thomas Blatt; Cathrin Scherner; Ludger Kolbe
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2007-09-13
Filing date: 2008-09-11
Publication date: 2009-03-26
Also published as: DE102008041972A1; WO2009036924A8

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for selectively applying cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulations to the skin and to a selective product applicator for cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulations.

Description

Procedure for wrinkle reduction

description

The present invention relates to a method for the selective application of cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulations to the skin and to a selective product applicator for cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulations.

US 2006/0016999 A1 discloses a device which indicates to the user the type of cosmetic sunscreen preparation required. The intensity of the

UVA and UVB radiation of sunlight detected by corresponding sensors. By means of a data processing unit, the preparation needed to protect the skin is calculated on the basis of appropriately preselected data on the individual skin properties and displayed to the user via optical or acoustic signals. However, automatic application of the corresponding preparation does not take place.

WO 04/039255 A1 discloses methods for the noninvasive analysis of the skin structure by means of optical methods. In particular, the methods shown are used to determine the melanin density.

From WO 02/087681 a method for the administration of therapeutic agents is known, in which a device implanted to the patient generates a signal which controls the delivery of an active ingredient from an adhesive plaster applied to the skin of the patient. However, in this method, no substances acting on or only in the upper layers of the skin can be used, since they do not or only in very small, ineffective amounts enter the body of a patient. Also, the method of skin care or skin treatment is not suitable because only relatively small areas of skin can be covered with a patch. It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a method and a suitable device which enable a selective application of cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations for skin care or skin treatment, in particular for the treatment of wrinkles.

The object is achieved in a first aspect by a method in which first the coloration of the skin, the skin relief or both over the entire surface of a selected skin surface is optically detected, the areas are determined within which the data deviate from target values, and then the cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations are released on these surfaces. Preferred embodiments of the method are the subject of the subclaims.

According to the invention, it is advantageous to control the application of the active ingredient in such a way that the covering with active ingredients extends beyond the edge region of the fold.

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Measurements of the skin roughness on the measurement of shadows of an obliquely illuminated skin area are known. The higher the elevations or deeper the grooves in the considered skin section, the longer shadows they cast. Also known are methods for determining skin color, in which light rays reflected at the skin surface are detected. It uses the phenomenon that a light beam incident on the skin is reflected with changed wavelength distribution depending on the color of the skin. These measurements can be performed with both white light and narrowband (colored) light.

In the method according to the invention, the light reflected on the skin surface is detected via corresponding sensors. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the change in intensity, the change in the wavelength of the reflected light or both in comparison to the incident light are detected.

The values obtained are compared with setpoints or setpoint ranges. The setpoint values can be determined in advance, for example, by appropriate measurements on wrinkle-free skin areas with a lower relief depth or uniformly pigmented skin areas. Another method for determining the desired values is, for example, to determine average values during the measurement itself from the measured values. which are used as setpoints or setpoint range. It is important to be able to record the structure of the skin surface either line-wise (line scanner) or areal (CCD camera).

If the measured data of a skin area lie outside the predetermined areas, a cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparation is deliberately released on this area.

Preparations which contain active ingredients are preferably used according to the invention. The choice of active ingredients depends on the type of skin change and the desired effect. Thus, for example, to smooth the skin roughness moisturizing or wrinkle-reducing agents are suitable.

The inventive method is preferably used for targeted wrinkle reduction. Furthermore, the method according to the invention can be used for targeted treatment of acne, inflammation, redness and irritation as well as insect bites.

It is particularly advantageous if the pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparations used in the process according to the invention have active substances, individually or in combination, which are suitable for the particular application.

Suitable active ingredients are, for example, the following active ingredients selected from the group of biochinones, in particular ubiquinone (Q10), ubiquinol, folic acid and its derivatives, in particular tetrahydrofolic acid and dihydrofolic acid, niacin and its derivatives, in particular niacinamide, creatine and creatinine, carnitine, biotin, isoflavone, cardiolipin , Lipoic acid, anti-freezing proteins, Pimpinella anis fruit extract, hop and hop malt extracts, active ingredients that promote the restructuring of connective tissue, such as natural and synthetic isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-containing plant extracts such as soy and clover extracts , Active ingredients to support the skin functions in dry skin such as vitamin C, biotin, carnitine, propionic acid, green tea extracts, eucalyptus oil, urea and mineral salts such as NaCl, marine minerals and osmolytes eg inositol, betaine and quaternary ammonium compounds, active ingredients for relief or positive Influence of irritative Skin conditions at sensitive Skin in general or in skin irritated by noxious substances such as, for example, UV radiation or chemicals such as sericosides, various extracts of licorice, licochalcones, in particular licochalcone A ₁ silymarin, silyphos, dexpanthenol, inhibitors of prostaglandin metabolism, in particular cyclooxygenase and leukotriene metabolism, in particular 5- Lipoxygenase and the 5-lipoxygenase inhibitor protein, FLAP, modulators of pigmentation that reduce pigmentation of the skin, such as tyrosine sulfate, dioic acid (8-hexadecene-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid) as well as lipoic acid and lipoamide, various extracts of licorice , Kojic acid, hydroquinone, arbutin, alpha-arbutin, deoxyarbutin, fruit acids especially alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), bearberry extracts (Bearberry or Uvae ursi), ursolic acid, ascorbic acid, green tea extracts, aminoguanidine, pyridoxamine, niacinamide, inhibitors of Proteinase Activated Receptors 2 (PAR-2), agents containing a vers markets or faster tanning of the skin with or without UV light, for example advanced glycation endproducts (AGE), lipofuscins, nucleic acid oligonucleotides, purines and pyrimidines, NO-releasing substances, tyrosine and its derivatives especially N-acetyl-tyrosine, Phenylalanine and its derivatives, in particular N-acetyl-phenylalanine and activators of the Proteinase Activated Receptor 2 (PAR-2), anti-wrinkle agents such as flavone glycosides in particular α-glycosyl rutin, coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and its derivatives. Active substances in encapsulated form can also be used in the process according to the invention, in particular alpha-, beta-, HP-beta, random-Me-beta, gamma-cyclodextrin, cellulose, gelatin, wax or liposomes being used as encapsulation materials serve. Hyaluronic acid, Q10, folic acid, creatine, vitamin C are preferably used to treat wrinkles. Wrinkles can also be laminated by application of fillers, in particular by PMMA, silica or siloxane elastomers. In a further aspect, the present object is achieved by a selective product applicator which has at least one optoelectronic sensor, at least one product reservoir, a data processing unit and at least one electrically triggered device for releasing liquids. Preferred embodiments of the product applicator are the subject of the subclaims.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the optoelectronic sensors and those associated with the product reservoirs are Liquid release devices connected to the data processing unit.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the product applicator according to the invention in the form of a pin, which can be operated or applied with one hand. All components are chosen so that they can be arranged in a housing which can be held in one hand.

It is inventively preferred that the electrically triggered device for releasing liquids has a spray head. The spray head can have a micropump, wherein, for example, diaphragm pumps or piston pumps are used. Micro diaphragm pumps often use the piezo effect (piezo diaphragm micropumps) mentioned below. A preferred embodiment of the present invention is the use of overpressure containers and microvalves (corresponding to the technique used in the airbrush method).

It is further preferred according to the invention that the spray head comprises a bubble jet spray head or a piezo spray head. In a spray head according to the bubble jet method, which is referred to below as a bubble jet spray head, tiny drops of liquid are produced by means of a heating element. As a result, a vapor bubble forms explosively, which presses a drop of liquid out of a nozzle by its pressure. In a piezo spray head, the property of piezocrystals is used to deform under electrical tension to force fluid through a nozzle. The drop formation of the liquid occurs, whereby the drop volume can be controlled via the applied electrical pulse. The operating frequency of a piezocrystal reaches up to 23 kHz.

In a particular embodiment, the active ingredients and / or preparations by microinjections (microneedle system) directly into the folds.

According to the application types such as thermal inkjet, Mirkoventil and Sprühvervahren using a Venturi nozzle (airbrush principle) are also It is important that the preparation to be released must not be too hot, so that the active ingredients are not destroyed. In addition, the viscosity, the maximum particle size and the agglomeration behavior of the particles of the preparation to be released must also be matched to the pumping power and the nozzle geometry of the device used in order to enable a targeted release.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, photodiodes, phototransistors or CCD elements or CCD sensors (CCD: Charge Coupled Device) are used individually or in combination as optoelectronic sensors. According to the invention, the use of CCD sensors, as used for example in scanners, is preferred. Due to their high sensitivity CCD sensors allow the detection of very weak light rays. They also have broad spectral sensitivity and high dynamic range, i. they can simultaneously capture very faint and very bright areas of an image.

The measured value acquisition according to the present invention is an evaluation of the light intensity distribution. For a special optical arrangement, e.g. Angle between the optical axes of the light source and the recording unit to better determine the wrinkle expression is to pay attention to the exact location assignment between the intensity signal and the application target area. The light intensity can be recorded as a sum signal or spectrally differentiating via optical or electronic filters. The trigger signal for the application can be obtained via a threshold value of the intensity or from threshold value combinations of different spectral intensities. The threshold value or the threshold value combinations must be determined individually for each skin in a "training mode." Optionally, optical iris may be required in order to focus the training particularly selectively on specific skin characteristics.

In a further aspect, the present object is achieved by the use of the product applicator according to the invention for the selective application of cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations on the skin.

The applicator according to the invention is preferred for the application of pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations for the treatment of acne, wrinkles and other signs of aging as well as pigmentation disorders. Preparations suitable according to the invention are solutions, for example aqueous and / or alcoholic solutions (concentrates), emulsions, gels, melts, serums and make-up.

Claims

claims

1. A method for the selective application of cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations on the skin, characterized in that first the color and / or the relief over the entire surface of a selected skin surface is optically detected, the areas are determined within which the data deviate from target values and then the cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations are released on these surfaces, all of the components being arranged in a housing, the housing being dimensioned to be held in one hand, and the product applicator being usable with one hand.

2. The method according to claim 2 for the selective application of cosmetic or pharmaceutical active ingredients and / or preparations on skin folds, skin pores or skin depressions.

3. A method for the reduction of wrinkles, characterized in that in a first step, a skin area is optically detected, in a second step, the areas are determined which a fold is present, in a third step on the determined in the second step areas (wrinkles) Active substance, filling material or preparation is applied.

4. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the application of the active ingredient or the preparation over the edge region of

Fold out.

5. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the application of the filler or the preparation does not take place beyond the edge region of the fold.

6. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the application of the filler and the active ingredient or preparations containing the active ingredient and / or filler are varied, so that the filler does not have the edge of the fold out, but the active ingredient is also applied beyond the edge of the fold ..

7. Product applicator for selective application, characterized in that it comprises (I) at least one optoelectronic sensor,

(II) at least one data processing unit,

(III) at least one active substance and / or product reservoir and

(iV) has at least one electrically triggered device for the release of liquids.

A product applicator according to claim 7, characterized in that the sensor (s) and the apparatus associated with one or more product reservoirs or the liquid release devices associated with one or more product reservoirs are connected to the data processing unit.

9. Product applicator according to one of claims 7 to 8, characterized in that the active ingredient, filler and / or preparation reservoir is replaceable or designed as an ampoule.

10. Product applicator according to one of claims 7 to 9, characterized in that the electrically triggered device for releasing the liquids comprises a spray head or microneedle system.

11. Product applicator according to one of claims 7 to 10, characterized in that the spray head comprises a micropump.

12. Product applicator according to claim 10 or 11, characterized in that the spray head comprises a bubble jet spray head or a piezo spray head.

13. Product applicator according to one of claims 7 to 12, characterized in that the one or more sensors have photodiodes, phototransistors or CCD elements.

14. Use of the product applicator according to one of claims 7 to 13 for the selective application of cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations to the skin, in particular to wrinkles.

15. Use according to claim 14, characterized in that the preparations are solutions, preferably aqueous and / or alcoholic solutions, emulsions, gels or melts.

16. Use according to one of claims 14 to 15, characterized in that the active substance or substances are selected from the group hyaluronic acid, Q10,

Folic acid, creatine, vitamin C used.

17. Use according to one of the claims 14 to 15, characterized in that the filler or fillers are selected from the group of powder, PMMA, silica or Siloxanelastornere.