DE10207919A1 - Anti-Ageingmittel - Google Patents

Abstract

New anti-aging agents are proposed which are distinguished by the fact that they contain an effective content of plant extracts of the genus Arctium.

Description

Field of the Invention

The invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to new preparations against the influence of aging and environmental toxins on the skin and hair, distinguish effective content of arctium extracts and the use of the extracts against a variety of effects that damage the skin and hair.

State of the art

Even in ancient times, the desire for eternal beauty and youth passed. While handed down from Cleopatra is that they regularly take a bath in donkey milk too used to take - today we know about the effect of the milk proteins it contains - less wealthy women had to hope that their wish would be heard by the gods would. It can be assumed that this has rarely been crowned with success. nowadays youthful appearance and wrinkle-free skin is not a privilege of a few, but stands for everyone despite the sometimes considerable price differences for the preparations Women available. Even if cosmetic chemistry cannot work miracles, has gained knowledge of the biochemical processes in the Skin and hair cells increased by leaps and bounds. As a result, have Of course, approaches reveal how you can cause damage caused by natural Can occur, prevent or remedy aging or environmental influences. Are in the same way however, the demands that consumers (and increasingly, too) have increased Consumers) to such so-called "anti-aging agents. Not to mention that the preparations should always have a nourishing character and must be optimally compatible with the skin and possibly mucous membrane, they should be protected against UV Protect radiation and environmental toxins, stimulate the immune system and be anti-inflammatory.

In this context, for example, the two Spanish patents ES 2020786 B1, ES 2143436 B1 and ES 2326514 B1, from which Hair care products are known to be extracts of burdock, birch, rosemary, lavender and others contain. For a similar purpose, especially to combat hair loss, are mixtures according to the French patent application FR 2715848 A1 Plant ash and burdock powder used. From the international patent application WO 01/34102 are preparations containing tyronase activators and Reductase inhibitors such as e.g. B. the extract of Arctium lappa known with which the gray color of Hair can be prevented. Subject of the French patent specification PR 2655544 B1 are micellar preparations of burdock extract, enclosed in a matrix by a cationic polymer and an anionic phase is formed. In the French Patent specification FR 2696932 B1 cosmetic preparations are known which are mixtures of Contain plant extracts and filtrates from microorganism cultures and thereby feature that they stimulate the growth of fibroblasts and the depth of wrinkles in the skin Reduce. Finally, from Belgian patent application BE 1011858 A7 Cosmetic preparations known to be used against dry skin and wrinkles and synergistic mixtures of fat-soluble vegetable oils and fat-soluble Plant extracts included.

The object of the present invention was therefore to develop new anti-aging To provide agents with an active ingredient that has the complex described above Requirement profile met. With regard to the BSE discussion, there is also a desire to that this "multifunctional active ingredient" is a herbal product.

Description of the invention

The invention relates to anti-aging agents, which are characterized in that they contain an effective content of plant extracts of the genus Arctium. These preparations are preferably free from vegetable oils and / or filtrates Microorganism cultures.

Surprisingly, it was found that plant extracts of the Arctium genus, specifically of the species Arctium lappa, also known as "burdock" or "gobo", skin and Protects hair from free radical attack. The antioxidative effectiveness lies there well above that of tocopherol and butylated hydroxytoluene and in the same Magnitude like vitamin C. The extracts are also effective against UV-A and UV-B radiation and especially reduce the release of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP), lactate Dehydrogenase (LDH) and prostaglandins. They also have an anti-inflammatory effect, because they reduce the release of proteases, especially collagenases, and the Reduce respiratory outbreaks of human granulocytes without harming them. The extracts stimulate the skin's immune system, growth and regeneration Fibroblasts and the synthesis of glucose-6-phosphate dehydrogenase (G6PD). Finally they also promote lipolysis of fats in the skin.

Another object of the invention therefore relates to the use of plant extracts of the genus Arctium as a means of protecting skin and hair against aging and Environmental influences in which they are present in amounts of 0.001 to 1, preferably 0.005 to 0.01% by weight - Based on the content of active ingredients - may be included.

Arctium extracts

The botanist understands the genus Arctium as a carrot-like plant, which in Europe, North America and parts of Asia is widespread and European Language area is mostly referred to as "burdock", while the term "gobo" in Asia is common. Like many such plants, gobo is part of the classic Chinese and Japanese medicine; in these regions, the plant is also a good food known. Arctium Lappa has the highest of the few species of the genus Arctium Spreading and therefore also the most important. In addition to inulin are the most important Ingredients to name the lignans arctigenin, arctiin and asarinin, which are characterized by in particular the roots, leaves and fruit extraction can be enriched.

extraction

The extracts can be prepared in a manner known per se, i. H. for example by aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic extraction of the plants or Parts of plants or the roots, leaves or fruits. Regarding the appropriate conventional Extraction processes such as maceration, remaceration, digestion, Motion maceration, vortex extraction, ultrasound extraction, countercurrent extraction, the Percolation, repercolation, evacolation (extraction under reduced pressure), the Diacolation and solid liquid extraction under continuous reflux which are carried out in a Soxhlet Extractor is carried out, which are familiar to the person skilled in the art and are in principle all applicable, for the sake of simplicity, for example, on Hager's manual of the pharmaceuticals Praxis, (5th edition, vol. 2, pp. 1026-1030, Springer Verlag, Berlin-Heidelberg-New-York 1991). The percolation method is advantageous for large-scale use. Fresh plants or parts of plants can be used as starting material, Usually, however, it is assumed that the plants and / or parts of plants are dry can be mechanically crushed before extraction. All are suitable for this Comminution methods known to those skilled in the art, freeze grinding may be mentioned as an example. Organic solvents, Water (preferably hot water at a temperature above 80 ° C and especially of over 95 ° C) or mixtures of organic solvents and water, in particular low molecular weight alcohols with more or less high water contents become. Extraction with methanol, ethanol, pentane, hexane, heptane is particularly preferred. Acetone, propylene glycols, polyethylene glycols and ethyl acetate and mixtures thereof as well as their aqueous mixtures. The extraction usually takes place at 20 to 100 ° C, preferably at 30 to 90 ° C, especially at 60 to 80 ° C. In a preferred embodiment the extraction takes place under an inert gas atmosphere to avoid oxidation of the Active ingredients of the extract. This is particularly the case for extractions at temperatures above 40 ° C significant. The extraction times are dependent on the person skilled in the art Starting material, the extraction process, the extraction temperature, the ratio Solvent to raw material u. a. set. After extraction, the obtained Crude extracts, if necessary, further usual steps, such as purification, Concentration and / or decolorization. If so desired, they can do so Extracts produced, for example, a selective separation of individual unwanted Ingredients. The extraction can be up to any degree of extraction done, but is usually done to exhaustion. Typical yields (= Amount of dry substance of the extract based on the amount of raw material used) at Extraction of dried leaves is in the range from 3 to 15, in particular 6 to 10% by weight. The present invention includes the discovery that the extraction conditions as well the yields of the final extracts are chosen by the person skilled in the art depending on the desired area of use can be. These extracts, which are usually active substance contents (= solids contents) in the range of 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, can be used as such, it is however, it is also possible to dry the solvent, in particular by spraying. or completely remove freeze drying, leaving an intense red colored solid remains. The extracts can also be used as starting materials for the extraction of the above serve pure active ingredients, provided that these are not easier and synthetic can be produced more cost-effectively. As a result, the drug content in the Extracts are 5 to 100, preferably 50 to 95 wt .-%. The extracts themselves can as aqueous and / or dissolved in organic solvents as well as spray or freeze-dried, anhydrous solids are present. As an organic solvent come in this connection, for example, the aliphatic alcohols with 1 to 6 Carbon atoms (e.g. ethanol), ketones (e.g. acetone), halogenated hydrocarbons (e.g. Chloroform or methylene chloride), lower esters or polyols (e.g. glycerin or glycols) in Question.

Anti-aging agent

The agents according to the invention are usually in the form of creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax / fat masses, stick preparations, powder or ointments. They can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, Oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, Stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic agents, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants, Anti-dandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, self-tanners, Tyrosine inhibitors (depigmenting agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, Perfume oils, dyes and the like included.

surfactants

Anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants may be included, their share in the agents usually about 1 to 70, preferably 5 to 50 and in particular 10 to 30% by weight is. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzenesulfonates, Alkane sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, Sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, Fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, Mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, Amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, Fatty acid taurides, N-arylamino acids, such as, for example, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, Acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (especially vegetable products based on wheat) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the contain anionic surfactants polyglycol ether chains, these can be a conventional, but preferably have a narrow homolog distribution. Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, Fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated Triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides or glucoronic acid derivatives, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, protein hydrolyzates (in particular vegetable products based on wheat), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, Polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can be a conventional one, but preferably a restricted one Show homolog distribution. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary Ammonium compounds, such as, for example, dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, and esterquats, especially quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts. Typical examples of Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, Aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. With the surfactants mentioned it is only known connections. In terms of structure and manufacture these substances are on relevant reviews, for example J. Falbe (ed.), "Surfactants in Consumer Products", Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, pp. 54-124 or J. Falbe (ed.), "Catalysts, surfactants and mineral oil additives", Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978, pp. 123-217. Typical examples of particularly suitable ones mild, d. H. surfactants that are particularly compatible with the skin are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, Monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, Fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, α-olefin sulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, Alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkyl amido betaines, amphoacetals and / or Protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.

oil body

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols or esters of branched C ₆ -C ₄ come as oil bodies, for example ₁₃ - carboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, such as. B. myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, Myristylisostearat, myristyl, Myristylbehenat, Myristylerucat, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, Cetylisostearat, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, Stearylisostearat, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, Stearylerucat, isostearyl, isostearyl palmitate, Isostearylstearat, isostearyl isostearate, Isostearyloleat, isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, oleyl, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleate, Oleylbehenat, oleyl, behenyl myristate, behenyl, behenyl, Behenylisostearat, behenyl oleate, behenyl, erucyl, erucyl, erucyl, erucyl, erucyl, erucyl, erucyl behenate and erucyl. In addition, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C ₁₈ -C ₃₈ alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols are suitable (cf. DE 197 56 377 A1 ), in particular dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₁₀ fatty acids, liquid mono- / di - / Triglyceride mixtures based on C ₆ -C ₁₈ fatty acids, esters of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of C ₂ -C ₁₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 up to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, such as z. B. dicaprylyl carbonates (Cetiol® CC), Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 C atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols (e.g. Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types, etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as. B. as squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexane.

emulators

• - Ethylenoxidanlagerungsprodukte
  Die Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid und/oder von Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole, Fettsäuren, Alkylphenole oder an Ricinusöl stellen bekannte, im Handel erhältliche Produkte dar. Es handelt sich dabei um Homologengemische, deren mittlerer Alkoxylierungsgrad dem Verhältnis der Stoffmengen von Ethylenoxid und/ oder Propylenoxid und Substrat, mit denen die Anlagerungsreaktion durchgeführt wird, entspricht. C_12/18- Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von Ethylenoxid an Glycerin sind aus DE 20 24 051 PS als Rückfettungsmittel für kosmetische Zubereitungen bekannt.
• - Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglvkoside
  Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglycoside, ihre Herstellung und ihre Verwendung sind aus dem Stand der Technik bekannt. Ihre Herstellung erfolgt insbesondere durch Umsetzung von Glucose oder Oligosacchariden mit primären Alkoholen mit 8 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen. Bezüglich des Glycosidrestes gilt, daß sowohl Monoglycoside, bei denen ein cyclischer Zuckerrest glycosidisch an den Fettalkohol gebunden ist, als auch oligomere Glycoside mit einem Oligomerisationsgrad bis vorzugsweise etwa 8 geeignet sind. Der Oligomerisierungsgrad ist dabei ein statistischer Mittelwert, dem eine für solche technischen Produkte übliche Homologenverteilung zugrunde liegt.
• - Partialglyceride
  Typische Beispiele für geeignete Partialglyceride sind Hydroxystearinsäuremonoglycerid, Hydroxystearinsäurediglycerid, Isostearinsäuremonoglycerid, Isostearinsäurediglycerid, Ölsäuremonoglycerid, Ölsäurediglycerid, Ricinolsäuremoglycerid, Ricinolsäurediglycerid, Linolsäuremonoglycerid, Linolsäurediglycerid, Linolensäuremonoglycerid, Linolensäurediglycerid, Erucasäuremonoglycerid, Erucasäurediglycerid, Weinsäuremonoglycerid, Weinsäurediglycerid, Citronensäuremonoglycerid, Citronendiglycerid, Äpfelsäuremonoglycerid, Äpfelsäurediglycerid sowie deren technische Gemische, die untergeordnet aus dem Herstellungsprozeß noch geringe Mengen an Triglycerid enthalten können. Ebenfalls geeignet sind Anlagerungsprodukte von 1 bis 30, vorzugsweise 5 bis 10 Mol Ethylenoxid an die genannten Partialglyceride.
• - Sorbitanester
  Als Sorbitanester kommen Sorbitanmonoisostearat, Sorbitansesquiisostearat, Sorbitandiisostearat, Sorbitantriisostearat, Sorbitanmonooleat, Sorbitansesquioleat, Sorbitandioleat, Sorbitantrioleat, Sorbitanmonoerucat, Sorbitansesquierucat, Sorbitandierucat, Sorbitantrierucat, Sorbitanmonoricinoleat, Sorbitansesquiricinoleat, Sorbitandiricinoleat, Sorbitantriricinoleat, Sorbitanmonohydroxystearat, Sorbitansesquihydroxystearat, Sorbitandihydroxystearat, Sorbitantrihydroxystearat, Sorbitanmonotartrat, Sorbitansesquitartrat, Sorbitanditartrat, Sorbitantritartrat, Sorbitanmonocitrat, Sorbitansesquicitrat, Sorbitandicitrat, Sorbitantricitrat, Sorbitanmonomaleat, Sorbitansesquimaleat, Sorbitandimaleat, Sorbitantrimaleat sowie deren technische Gemische. Ebenfalls geeignet sind Anlagerungsprodukte von 1 bis 30, vorzugsweise 5 bis 10 Mol Ethylenoxid an die genannten Sorbitanester.
• - Polyglycerinester
  Typische Beispiele für geeignete Polyglycerinester sind Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH), Polyglycerin-3-Diisostearate (Lameform® TGI), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (Isolan® GI 34), Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycero) Caprate T2010/90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) und Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate sowie deren Gemische. Beispiele für weitere geeignete Polyolester sind die gegebenenfalls mit 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid umgesetzten Mono-, Di- und Triester von Trimethylolpropan oder Pentaerythrit mit Laurinsäure, Kokosfettsäure, Talgfettsäure, Palmitinsäure, Stearinsäure, Ölsäure, Behensäure und dergleichen.
• - Anionische Emulgatoren
  Typische anionische Emulgatoren sind aliphatische Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie beispielsweise Palmitinsäure, Stearinsäure oder Behensäure, sowie Dicarbonsäuren mit 12 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie beispielsweise Azelainsäure oder Sebacinsäure.
• - Amphotere und kationische Emulgatoren
  Weiterhin können als Emulgatoren zwitterionische Tenside verwendet werden. Als zwitterionische Tenside werden solche oberflächenaktiven Verbindungen bezeichnet, die im Molekül mindestens eine quartäre Ammoniumgruppe und mindestens eine Carboxylat- und eine Sulfonatgruppe tragen. Besonders geeignete zwitterionische Tenside sind die sogenannten Betaine wie die N-Alkyl-N,N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, beispielsweise das Kokosalkyldimethylammoniumglycinat, N-Acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, beispielsweise das Kokosacylaminopropyldimethyl-ammoniumglycinat, und 2- Alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazoline mit jeweils 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkyl- oder Acylgruppe sowie das Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. Besonders bevorzugt ist das unter der CTFA-Bezeichnung Cocamidopropyl Betaine bekannte Fettsäureamid-Derivat. Ebenfalls geeignete Emulgatoren sind ampholytische Tenside. Unter ampholytischen Tensiden werden solche oberflächenaktiven Verbindungen verstanden, die außer einer C_8/18-Alkyl- oder Acylgruppe im Molekül mindestens eine freie Aminogruppe und mindestens eine -COOH- oder -SO₃H-Gruppe enthalten und zur Ausbildung innerer Salze befähigt sind. Beispiele für geeignete ampholytische Tenside sind N-Alkylglycine, N-Alkylpropion-säuren, N-Alkylaminobuttersäuren, N- Alkyliminodipropionsäuren, N-Hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-Alkyltaurine, N-Alkylsarcosine, 2-Alkylaminopropionsäuren und Alkylaminoessigsäuren mit jeweils etwa 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe. Besonders bevorzugte ampholytische Tenside sind das N-Kokosalkylaminopropionat, das Kokosacylaminoethylaminopropionat und das C_12/18-Acylsarcosin. Schließlich kommen auch Kationtenside als Emulgatoren in Betracht, wobei solche vom Typ der Esterquats, vorzugsweise methylquaternierte Difettsäuretriethanolaminester-Salze, besonders bevorzugt sind.

Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:
Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and alkylamines with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical;
Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alk (en) yl radical and their ethoxylated analogs;
Addition products of 1 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;
Addition products of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;
Partial esters of glycerol and / or sorbitan with unsaturated, linear or saturated, branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide;
Partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (e.g. Cellulose) with saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide;
Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE 11 65 574 PS and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol.
Mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts;
Lanolin alcohol;
Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;
Block copolymers e.g. B. Polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate;
Polymer emulsifiers, e.g. B. Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich;
Polyalkylene glycols as well
Glycerol carbonate.

• - Ethylene oxide addition products
  The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs, the average degree of alkoxylation of which is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate, with which the addition reaction is carried out. C _12/18 - fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE 20 24 051 PS as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.
• - Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides
  Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms. With regard to the glycoside residue, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to preferably about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.
• - partial glycerides
  Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid, Isostearinsäurediglycerid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, Ricinolsäuremoglycerid, Ricinolsäurediglycerid, Linolsäuremonoglycerid, Linolsäurediglycerid, Linolensäuremonoglycerid, Linolensäurediglycerid, Erucasäuremonoglycerid, Erucasäurediglycerid, Weinsäuremonoglycerid, Weinsäurediglycerid, Citronensäuremonoglycerid, Citronendiglycerid, Äpfelsäuremonoglycerid, malic acid diglyceride and technical mixtures thereof, which may still contain small amounts of triglyceride from the manufacturing process. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide onto the partial glycerides mentioned are also suitable.
• - sorbitan esters
  As sorbitan sorbitan, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, Sorbitan, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan, sorbitan, Sorbitanmonoerucat, Sorbitansesquierucat, Sorbitandierucat, Sorbitantrierucat, Sorbitanmonoricinoleat, Sorbitansesquiricinoleat, Sorbitandiricinoleat, Sorbitantriricinoleat, Sorbitanmonohydroxystearat, Sorbitansesquihydroxystearat, Sorbitandihydroxystearat, Sorbitantrihydroxystearat, Sorbitanmonotartrat, Sorbitansesquitartrat, Sorbitanditartrat, Sorbitantritartrat come , Sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan dicitrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan trimaleate and their technical mixtures. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide onto the sorbitan esters mentioned are also suitable.
• - polyglycerol esters
  Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3-diisostearate (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan® GI 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleate, diisostearoyl polyglyearyl-3 diisostearate ® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycero) Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate and their mixtures. Examples of other suitable polyol esters are the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like which are optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.
• - Anionic emulsifiers
  Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and dicarboxylic acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as azelaic acid or sebacic acid.
• - Amphoteric and cationic emulsifiers
  Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl -hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C _8/18 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C _12/18 acylsarcosine. Finally, cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Fats and waxes

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, i.e. H. solid or liquid vegetable or animal Products consisting essentially of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids, come as waxes a. natural waxes such as B. candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, Sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walnut, lanolin (Wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, micro waxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as. B. Montanester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes such as B. polyalkylene waxes and Polyethylene glycol waxes in question. In addition to fats, fat-like ones also come as additives Substances such as lecithins and phospholipids in question. Under the name Lecithine the person skilled in the art understands those glycerophospholipids which are composed of fatty acids, glycerol, Form phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore used in the professional world also often as phosphatidylcholine (PC). Examples include natural lecithins Called cephalins, which are also called phosphatidic acids and derivatives of 1,2- Represent diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. In contrast, one understands Phospholipids are usually mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerin (Glycerol phosphates), which are generally classified as fats. Besides that come too Sphingosine or sphingolipids in question.

pearlescent

Pearlescent waxes, for example, are: alkylene glycol esters, specifically ethylene glycol; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, if necessary Hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, Fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, totaling at least 24 carbon atoms have, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, Hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 Carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 Carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

Consistency agents and thickeners

The main consistency agents are fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols from 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and in addition partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids. A combination of these substances with is preferred Alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or Polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxy stearates. Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil Types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, especially xanthan gum, guar guar, Agar-agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and Hydroxypropyl cellulose, also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of Fatty acids, polyacrylates, (e.g. Carbopole® and Pemulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene® from Sigma; Keltrol types from Kelco; Seppic Sepigel types; Salcare types from Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone. As special Bentonites, such as B. Bentone® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox) which is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and Is propylene carbonate. Surfactants such as ethoxylated are also suitable Fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or Trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or Alkyl oligoglucosides as well as electrolytes such as table salt and ammonium chloride.

superfatting

Substances such as lanolin and lecithin as well as polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, Monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides are used, the latter being used simultaneously as Foam stabilizers are used.

stabilizers

Metal salts of fatty acids, such as. B. magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate can be used.

polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as. B. a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose, which is marketed under the name Polymer JR 400® by Amerchol is available, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and Acrylamides, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl imidazole polymers, such as. B. Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized Collagen polypeptides such as lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic Silicone polymers such as e.g. B. amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and Dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with Dimethyl-diallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, such as, for. B. described in FR 2252840 A and its crosslinked water-soluble polymers, Cationic chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline distributed, condensation products from dihaloalkylene, such as. B. with dibromobutane Bisdialkylaminen, such as. B. bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as. B. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt Polymers such as B. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.

Coming as anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers for example vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, Vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride Copolymers and their esters, uncrosslinked and polyols crosslinked with polyols, Acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, Octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert.Butylaminoethylmethacrylat / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, Polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, Vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatized Cellulose ethers and silicones in question. Other suitable polymers and thickeners are in Cosm. Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

silicone compounds

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, Methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones as well as amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl modified silicone compounds that work at room temperature both can be liquid as well as resinous. Simethicone, at which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates. A detailed An overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found by Todd et al. in cosm. Toil. 91, 27 (1976).

UV light protection filters and antioxidants

• - 3-Benzylidencampher bzw. 3-Benzylidennorcampher und dessen Derivate, z. B. 3-(4- Methylbenzyliden)campher wie in der EP 0693471 B1 beschrieben;
• - 4-Aminobenzoesäurederivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-octylester und 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• - Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäurepropylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisoamylester 2-Cyano-3,3-phenylzimtsäure-2- ethylhexylester (Octocrylene);
• - Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure-2-ethylhexylester, Salicylsäure-4-isopropylbenzylester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester;
• - Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon;
• - Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzmalonsäuredi-2-ethylhexylester;
• - Triazinderivate, wie z. B. 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin und Octyl Triazon, wie in der EP 0818450 A1 beschrieben oder Dioctyl Butannido Triazone (Uvasorb® HEB);
• - Propan-1,3-dione, wie z. B. 1-(4-tert.Butylphenyl)-3-(4'methoxyphenyl)propan-1,3-dion;
• - Ketotricyclo(5.2.1.0)decan-Derivate, wie in der EP 0694521 B1 beschrieben.

Under UV light protection factors are to be understood, for example, liquid or crystalline organic substances (light protection filters) at room temperature which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. B. to release heat again. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances such. B. To name:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, e.g. B. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor as described in EP 0693471 B1;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene);
• - esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylic acid, homomenthyl salicylic acid;
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• - Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;
• - Triazine derivatives, such as. B. 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and octyl triazone as described in EP 0818450 A1 or dioctyl butannido triazone (Uvasorb ® HEB);
• Propane-1,3-diones, such as e.g. B. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
• - Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives, as described in EP 0694521 B1.

• - 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und deren Alkali-, Erdalkali-, Ammonium-, Alkylammonium-, Alkanolammonium- und Glucammoniumsalze;
• - Sulfonsäurederivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;
• - Sulfonsäurederivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure und 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornyliden)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.

Possible water-soluble substances are:

• - 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Derivatives of benzoylmethane are particularly suitable as typical UV-A filters, such as for example 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl-4'- methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and enamine compounds, as described in DE 197 12 033 A1 (BASF). The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. Especially Favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoylmethane, e.g. B. 4-tert-butyl 4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene) in combination with ester of cinnamic acid, preferably 4- 2-ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and / or propyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or 4- Methoxycinnamate. Such combinations with are advantageous water-soluble filters such. B. 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, Combined ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts.

In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, there are also insoluble ones for this purpose Light protection pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts in question. examples for suitable metal oxides are in particular zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and also oxides of iron, Zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium as well as their mixtures. As salts Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used. The oxides and salts are in the form of pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics used. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but they can also Particles are used that are ellipsoidal or otherwise spherical shape have a different shape. The pigments can also be surface treated, d. H. are hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated Titanium dioxides, e.g. B. Titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). As a hydrophobic Coating agents come mainly from silicones and especially trialkoxyoctylsilanes or Simethicone in question. So-called micro- or Nanopigments used. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. Further Suitable UV light protection filters are in the overview by P. Finkel in SÖFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996) and Parf. Kosm. 3, 11 (1999).

In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, it is also possible to use secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose , Propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, Oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionocinsulfoximine, , Butioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. B. pmol to µmol / kg), further (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. B. Ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α- Glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakarzarzäure, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. B. selenium-methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (z. B. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

Biogenic agents

Examples of biogenic active ingredients are tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, Tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and their fragmentation products, β- Glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, Ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts, such as. B. prunus extract, Understand Bambaranus extract and vitamin complexes.

Deodorants and germ inhibitors

Cosmetic deodorants (deodorants) counteract body odors, mask them or eliminate them. Body odors arise from the action of skin bacteria apocrine sweat, whereby unpleasant smelling breakdown products are formed. Accordingly, deodorants contain active ingredients that act as germ-inhibiting agents, Enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers act.

Anti-germ agents

As anti-germ agents, all are basically against gram-positive bacteria effective substances suitable such. B. 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N- (4- Chlorophenyl) -N '- (3,4 dichlorophenyl) urea, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy-diphenyl ether (Triclosan), 4-chloro-3,5-dimethyl-phenol, 2,2'-methylene-bis (6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 3- Methyl-4- (1-methylethyl) phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 3- (4-chlorophenoxy) -1,2- propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbonilide (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, clove oil, menthol, Mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprinate, glycerol monocaprylate, Glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprinate (DMC), salicylic acid N-alkylamides such as. B. Salicylic acid n-octylamide or salicylic acid n-decylamide.

enzyme inhibitors

Esterase inhibitors, for example, are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. This is about it is preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, Triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and especially triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT). The fabrics inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor. Other fabrics, which are considered as esterase inhibitors are sterolsulfates or phosphates, such as for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol and Sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as glutaric acid, Monoethyl glutarate, diethyl glutarate, adipic acid, Monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, Hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc glycinate.

odor absorbers

Substances which absorb odor-forming compounds are suitable as odor absorbers and can hold on to a large extent. They lower the partial pressure of the individual Components and thus also reduce their speed of propagation. It is important that Perfumes must remain unaffected. Odor absorbers have no effectiveness against bacteria. For example, they contain a complex component as the main component Zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special, largely odorless fragrances that the Are known in the art as "fixators" such. B. extracts of Labdanum or Styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. Fragrances or act as odor maskers Perfume oils, in addition to their function as odor maskers, deodorants give their respective fragrance. Mixtures may be mentioned as perfume oils from natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and twigs, and resins and balms. Keep coming animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum. typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, Alcohols and hydrocarbons. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. B. Benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, Linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. To the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes e.g. B. the linear Alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, Cyclamenaldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, Lilial and Bourgeonal, to the ketones z. B. the Jonone and methyl cedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, Isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, to the hydrocarbons belong mainly to the terpenes and balms. However, mixtures are preferred different fragrances, which together have an appealing fragrance produce. Also essential oils of lower volatility, mostly as aroma components used are suitable as perfume oils, e.g. B. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, Lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, Galbanum oil, Labdanum oil and Lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, Dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexyl cinnamaldehyde, Geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, Hedione, Sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclover valley, Lavender oil, muscatel sage oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, Cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, Phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilate, irotyl and floramate alone or used in mixtures.

antiperspirants

Antiperspirants (antiperspirants) reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor. Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients:
astringent active ingredients,
Oil components,
nonionic emulsifiers,
co-emulsifiers,
Bodying agents,
Excipients such as B. thickeners or complexing agents and / or
non-aqueous solvents such as As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.

Salts of are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients Aluminum, zirconium or zinc. Such suitable antiperspirant Active ingredients are e.g. B. aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, Aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds e.g. B. with 1,2-propylene glycol. Aluminum hydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium Trichlorohydrate, aluminum-zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, Aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and their complex compounds z. B. with amino acids such as glycine.

In addition, customary oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries can be present in smaller amounts in antiperspirants. Such oil-soluble aids can e.g. B. be:
anti-inflammatory, skin-protecting or fragrant essential oils,
synthetic skin-protecting agents and / or
oil-soluble perfume oils.

Usual water-soluble additives are e.g. B. preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH adjusting agent, e.g. B. buffer mixtures, water-soluble thickeners, e.g. B. water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as B. xanthan gum, Hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.

film formers

Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or their Salts and similar compounds.

Antidandruff agents

Piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4- trimythylpentyl) -2- (1H) -pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (Climbazole), Ketoconazol®, (4-acetyl-1 - {- 4- [2- (2.4-dichlorophenyl) r-2- (1H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl) -1,3-dioxylan-c-4- ylmethoxyphenyl} piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal, Sulfur polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinole polyhexylate, sulfur tar distillates, Salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undexylenic acid monoethanolamide Sulfosuccinate Na salt, Lamepon® UD (protein undecylenic acid condensate), zinc pyrithione, Aluminum pyrithione and magnesium pyrithione / dipyrithione magnesium sulfate in question.

swelling agent

Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemules can be used as swelling agents for aqueous phases as well as alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich). Other suitable polymers or Swelling agents can be found in the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm. Toil. 108, 95 (1993) be removed.

Insect repellents

N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or ethyl are used as insect repellents Butylacetylaminopropionate in question

Self-tanners and depigmenting agents

Dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner. As tyrosine inhibitors that prevent the formation of Prevent melanin and find application in depigmenting agents for example arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) in Question.

hydrotropes

Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are
glycerol;
Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;
technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;
Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
Lower alkyl glucosides, in particular those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;
Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,
Sugars with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;
Aminosugars such as glucamine;
Dialcohol amines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1,3-propanediol.

preservative

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, Parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid as well as those under the name Surfacine® known silver complexes and those in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance listed further substance classes.

Perfume oils and flavors

Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, Ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, Coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, oranges), roots (Macis, Angelica, Celery, Cardamom, Costus, Iris, Calmus), Woods (Pine, Sandal, Guaiac, Cedarwood, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balsams (Galbanum, Elemi, Benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials are also possible, such as for example civet and castoreum. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are Products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. B. benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, Linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, Styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether the aldehydes e.g. B. the linear alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, Citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, Cyclamenaldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, Lilial and Bourgeonal, too the ketones e.g. B. the Jonone, α-isomethyl ionone and methyl cedryl ketone to the alcohols Anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and Terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include terpenes and balms. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together have one generate an appealing fragrance. Also essential oils of lower volatility, mostly as Aroma components are used as perfume oils, e.g. B. sage oil, chamomile oil, Clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, Oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, Dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexyl cinnamaldehyde, geraniol, Benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, Sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclover valley, lavandin oil, Muscat Sage Oil, β-Damascone, Geranium Oil Bourbon, Cyclohexyl Salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, Benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllat, irotyl and floramat alone or in mixtures, used. For example, peppermint oil, spearmint oil, anise oil, star anise oil, Caraway oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, wintergreen oil, clove oil, menthol and the like in question.

dyes

Suitable dyes are those which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes are used, such as those used in the publication "Cosmetic Colorants" the dye commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106 are compiled. Examples are Kochillerot A (C.I. 16255), Patent Blue V (C.I. 42051), Indigotin (C.I. 73015), Chlorophyllin (C.I. 75810), Quinoline yellow (C.I. 47005), titanium dioxide (C.I. 77891), indanthrene blue RS (C.I. 69800) and madder varnish (C.I. 58000). Luminol may also be present as the luminescent dye. These dyes are usually in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the whole mixture, used.

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, based on the composition. The agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used. Formulation examples Table 1 Examples of cosmetic preparations (water, preservative ad 100% by weight)

Table 1 Examples of cosmetic preparations (water, preservative ad 100 wt .-%) - cont.

Claims (12)

1. Anti-aging agents, characterized in that they contain an effective content of plant extracts of the Arctium genus. 2. Use of plant extracts of the genus Arctium as a means of protecting Skin and hair against aging and environmental influences. 3. Use according to claim 2, characterized in that extracts of Arctium lappa. 4. Use according to at least one of claims 2 to 3, characterized characterized that they protect skin and hair against the influence of free radicals. 5. Use according to at least one of claims 2 to 4, characterized characterized that it protects skin and hair from the influence of UV-A and UV-B radiation protect. 6. Use according to at least one of claims 2 to 5, characterized characterized that it protects the skin from the influence of proteases and especially collagenases protect. 7. Use of plant extracts of the Arctium genus as MMP inhibitors. 8. Use of plant extracts of the Arctium genus as an anti-inflammatory Agents. 9. Use of plant extracts of the genus Arctium as regenerative and growth-stimulating factors in skin treatment products. 10. Use of plant extracts of the genus Arctium to stimulate synthesis of glucose-6-phosphate dehydrogenase (G6PDH). 11. Use of plant extracts of the genus Arctium to stimulate the Immune system of the skin. 12. Use of plant extracts of the genus Arctium to activate lipolysis of fats in the skin.