DE102007036499A1 - Natural cosmetic hair treatment agent - Google Patents

Abstract

Hair treatment compositions are described which are based on an active substance combination of a) a vegetable color and / or hair care substance, b) an acylamino acid salt and / or a glycolipid and c) a fatty acid and / or glyceryl ester of a long-chain alcohol. By adding components b) and c), it is possible to stabilize natural hair color and care substances in a ready-to-use hair treatment composition and to significantly increase the cosmetic properties and performance of hair treatment compositions based on vegetable dyes and conditioners.

Description

The The invention relates to a natural cosmetic hair treatment agent the basis of a special drug combination, consisting of a vegetable color and / or hair care, a Acylaminosäuresalz and / or a glycolipid and a fatty acid and / or Glyceryl ester of a long-chain alcohol. The invention relates furthermore the use of the active substance combination for the production natural cosmetic hair treatment with improved cosmetic Properties as well as a method of hair treatment using of natural cosmetic hair treatment agent.

conditioned through the ever-increasing sense of hygiene of the people and the thus ever larger and widening requirements Cosmetic products are constantly posing new problems and difficulties in their production.

So the trend is in the majority of consumers in the last years towards natural cosmetic products that, at least are largely biodegradable and the ensure gentle treatment of the skin and / or hair, without a predominant share of aggressive chemical Contain active substances that negatively affect the skin and / or hair can burden.

specially in the classical hair dyeing process is still an oxidative treatment of the hair necessary, causing the hair structure (especially with frequent staining) damaged can be.

So There has been a shortage of efforts recently, To provide hair dyeing and care products that are predominantly on hair-friendly, natural vegetable color and / or Nursing based.

The Dyeing properties and conditions of use of hair dyes based on natural dyes and the care properties of hair care products based on natural care substances but are still insufficient.

Of the The reason is in the case of hair dyes in that natural hair dyes are commonly used in Form of powders are offered before using with warm water to mix into a usable porridge. This is quite complicated for the consumer and the cosmetic Acceptance of the application mixture is extremely low.

In the case of herbal hair care products, there is the problem that they often fail to work satisfactorily into a cosmetic formulation and stabilize it over a long period of time. Because of this, herbal hair dyes and conditioners have heretofore been stabilized in gel formulations using natural thickeners. For example, in the WO 02/30384 describes a cosmetic preparation based on certain plant extracts which have been stabilized in a gel.

The EP 577 143 describes, inter alia, solid solutions of flavonoids with a hydrophilic peptide. However, the resulting gels have a sticky consistency and they are also difficult to rinse out of the hair again. In addition, hair feel is often compromised after use.

The The object of the invention was as a result in it, natural herbal hair dyes and conditioners to stabilize in a suitable base such that an unproblematic Incorporation in cosmetic hair treatment possible becomes. The application of on herbal hair dyes and care substances hair-based remedies should also be facilitated, and the cosmetic properties of the hair are improved.

Completely surprising has now been found that the cosmetic properties and the Performance of hair-treatment preparations based on vegetable dyes and care substances by adding acylamino acid salts and / or glycolipids and fatty acid and / or glyceryl esters long-chain alcohols can be significantly improved.

• a) einem pflanzlichen Farb- und/oder Haarpflegestoff
• b) einem Acylaminosäuresalz und/oder einem Glycolipid und
• c) einem Fettsäure- und/oder Glycerylester eines langkettigen Alkohols

enthalten.The invention therefore hair treatment compositions containing an active ingredient combination

• a) a vegetable color and / or hair care substance
• b) an acylamino acid salt and / or a glycolipid and
• c) a fatty acid and / or glyceryl ester of a long-chain alcohol

contain.

The have hair treatment compositions according to the invention a significantly improved sensor and optics, and a lower Tackiness than those known in the art, comparable Means up. Furthermore, they can be better rinsed out of the hair. Another, particular advantage of the invention Hair treatment product is that it improved on the hair Care and dyeing properties cause.

According to the invention suitable vegetable dyes are usually extracted from the stems, Flowers, leaves, roots, barks, fruits and / or the seeds of chamomile, hibiscus, safflower, sunflower, walnut tree, Henna, indigo plant, sumac, elderberry, rubiacee, turmeric, Lotus, rhubarb, sandal, campeche, brazil and pernambuco, Alder, strawberry tree, oleander, saffron, weed, blackthorn, broom, Wau, lichens and goldenrod produced. The dyes are preferred from the henna (Lawsonia inermis), the indigo plant (Idnigofera Tinctora) and Curcuma (Curcuma Longa).

she are natural in the invention Hair dyes - based on the total weight the agent - in an amount of 0.01 to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 25% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 15 wt .-% used. The quantities refer to the pulverulent ground plant parts.

alternative also suitable aqueous and / or alcoholic, in particular ethanolic plant extracts are used. The Use concentration of the extracts is determined according to the dye content chosen so that a satisfactory color result is reached. Powdered henna contains approx. 0.3% the dye Lawsson. Reaching watery henna extracts a concentration of 0.01-2.0% Lawsson.

at the vegetable care substances are according to the invention vegetable oils and / or plant extracts.

The Vegetable oils are usually selected from coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, Walnut oil, peach kernel oil, avocado oil, Tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, Sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, Rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango seed oil, Meadowfoam, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, Grapeseed oil, apricot kernel oil, orange oil, Babushu, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, Mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, Sasanquaöl, Amaranthöl, Jojobaöl and Shea butter, with peach kernel oil, avocado oil, Sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, apricot kernel oil, Orange oil and jojoba oil are particularly preferred.

The Vegetable oils are used in the invention Hair care products - based on the total weight of the means - in from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 7% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight and in particular from 0.05 used to 3 wt .-%.

According to the invention suitable Plant extracts are plant extracts of green tea, white tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, Henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, Lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, Sandalwood, Juniper, Coconut, Mango, Apricot, Lime, Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, Mallow, Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, Thyme, Melissa, Toadstool, coltsfoot, vanilla, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root contain. Particularly preferred are the invention Extracts of green tea, white tea, almond, aloe Vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, vanilla, kiwi and melon and especially the extracts of aloe vera, Vanilla and melon.

Usually These extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, it may also be preferred in individual cases, the Extracts of flowers and / or leaves only to produce the plant.

When Extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts may be used water, alcohols and mixtures thereof become. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as the sole extractant also in mixture with water, preferred. Plant extracts based of water / propylene glycol in the ratio 1:10 to 10: 1 proved to be particularly suitable.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2-80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction or extraction extraction medium mixture.

The Plant extracts are in the inventive Resources - in relation to the total weight of funds - in from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 7% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight and in particular from 0.05 used to 3 wt .-%.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention the components a) (vegetable color and / or hair care substance (s)), b) (acylamino acid salt (s) and / or glycolipid (s)) and c) (Fatty acid and / or glyceryl esters of long-chain alcohols) in a weight ratio of (2-10) :( 0.1-1) :( 0.5-2) used.

Acylamino acid salts which are suitable according to the invention are customarily selected from condensation products of amino acids with saturated and unsaturated C ₈ -C ₃₀ -fatty acids, preferably with C ₁₀ -C ₂₄ -fatty acids and particularly preferably with C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -fatty acids which are used in neutralized form as alkali metal salts. , Ammonium or alkyl amino salt.

Amino acids which are suitable according to the invention are lysine, phenylalanine, valine, arginine, histidine, alanine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glycine, proline serine and tyrosine, with glutamic acid, aspartic acid, glycine, alanine, lysine and arginine being particularly preferred. Particularly suitable Acylaminosäuresalze are the sodium, potassium, ammonium, monoethanolamine or triethanolamine salts of the condensation products of glutamic acid, aspartic acid, glycine, alanine, lysine and arginine with C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty acids, in particular those under the trade name Eumulgin ^® SG ( Sodium stearoyl Glutamate) Aminsoft ^® CT 12 (TEA-Cocoyl Glutamate) Plantapon ^® ACG 35 (Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate) Protelan AGL ^® 35 (Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate) marketed commercial products.

she are in the inventive compositions - related on the total weight of funds - usually in an amount of 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 10 Wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5 and in particular from 0.5 used up to 2 wt .-%.

at the present invention suitable glycolipids they are usually sugar surfactants, alkylpolyglycosides and / or glycosphingolipids. You will be referring to that Total weight of funds - in an amount of 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5 and in particular from 0.2 to 2 wt .-% used.

Inventive sugar surfactants are ethoxylated or non-ethoxylated esters and / or ethers of glucose and / or sucrose with C ₈ -C ₃₀ -, preferably with C ₁₀ -C ₂₄ - and particularly preferably with C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty acids and / or - fatty alcohols. Particularly preferred are the commercial products sold under the trade names Arlatone ^®, Triton ^® CG 110 and Glucamate ^® are.

Alkyl polyglycosides according to the invention correspond to the general formula RO - (Z) _x , where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units. The alkylpolyglycosides according to the invention can only contain one particular alkyl radical R. Usually, however, these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds.

• – im wesentlichen aus C₈- und C₁₀-Alkylgruppen,
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- und C₁₄-Alkylgruppen,
• – im wesentlichen aus C₈- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen oder
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen oder
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₆ bis C₁₈-Alkylgruppen besteht.

Particularly preferred are those alkyl polyglycosides in which R

• Consisting essentially of C ₈ and C ₁₀ -alkyl groups,
• Essentially of C ₁₂ and C ₁₄ alkyl groups,
• - Essentially from C ₈ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or
• - Essentially from C ₁₂ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or
• - Consists essentially of C ₁₆ to C ₁₈ alkyl groups.

When Sugar building block Z can be any mono- or oligosaccharides be used. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, Arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, Idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, Fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is special prefers.

The alkyl polyglycosides according to the invention contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in de x is 1.1 to 1.8.

Also the alkoxylated homologs of said alkyl polyglycosides can used according to the invention. These homologs can average up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or Propylene oxide units per Alkylglykosideinheit included.

Particularly preferred alkyl polyglycosides are the C ₈ -C ₂₄ , preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ , and in particular C ₁₂ -C _20, glucosides, such as, for example, Coco glucosides, cetearyl glucosides and arachidyl glucosides, which (partly as a mixture) are available under the trade names Plantacare ^® , Plantaren ^® , Montanov ^® L, Montanov ^® 202, Montanov ^® 68 and Lamesoft ^® PO 65 are sold commercially.

When third essential component contain the inventive Hair treatment agents fatty acid and / or glyceryl esters long-chain alcohols in an amount of 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight and in particular from 1 to 5 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the agent.

These are usually selected from saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted C ₈ -C ₃₀ -fatty acids, in particular C ₈ -C ₂₂ -fatty acids, with saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, in particular C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, and / or from saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted mono-, di- or triglycerol esters having C chain lengths of 6 to 30, in particular of 8 to 22 carbon atoms (per chain).

Preferred fatty acid esters contain as fatty acid portion caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, hydroxystearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic, elaeostearic, arachidic, gadoleic, behenic and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, and as fatty alcohol components isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol. Preferred commercial products are, for example Cutina CP ^{®, ®} Naturchem GMHS, Cetiol ^® LC, Cetiol ^® V, Cetiol ^® MM and Cutina GMS ^® V.

Preferred glyceryl esters according to the invention are the mono-, di- or triglycerol esters of caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid , Arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid. The Glycexylester of lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and oleic acid are particularly preferred, such as ^® under the trade names Monomuts ^® 90 O 18, Lamesoft ^® PO 65, Antil ^® HS 60, Lamesoft ^® LMG, Monomuts ^® 90 L 12, Cutina GMS and Cutina ^® MD.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention included the means of support according to the invention the stabilization of herbal dyes and pesticides at least one natural hydrocolloid (d)) in an amount from 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, especially preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight and in particular from 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.

The natural hydrocolloids are usually selected from the group formed from agar-agar, alginates, carrageenates, carob gum, guar gum, xanthan gum, gum arabic, linseed mucilage, pectin, starch, tragacanth, modified cellulose such as cellulose ethers and / or cellulose esters , Proteins such as gelatin, bentonite and / or silica. Particularly preferred are agar-agar, alginates, xanthan gum, pectin, starch and modified cellulose, especially xanthan gum and alginates. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, it may be preferable to use two or more natural hydrocolloids, in particular xanthan gum and alginates. Suitable commercial products are known for example under the trade names Keltrol ^® CG and Texamid ^® 558th

According to a further preferred embodiment, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in addition to the mandatory components a) to c) and the optional, but preferred further component d) further contain at least one C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohol, preferably a C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohol an amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 5.0 wt .-% and in particular from 0.5 to 2.0 wt .-%.

suitable Fatty alcohols are, for example, decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, Decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, Ricinol alcohol, Stearyl alcohol, Isostearyl alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, Lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, Capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and their Guerbet alcohols. Especially preferred are behenyl alcohol and / or arachidyl alcohol.

The Subject to hair treatment compositions according to the invention in terms of their form of packaging no restrictions and can be used as an emulsion, cream, solution, gel or Mousse be formulated.

preferred Embodiments of the invention By means of shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioners, hair treatments, Hair lotions, hair gels, hair sprays, hair foams, Hair-setting and hair-dyeing, especially preferred are hair dyeing and care gels.

The Hair treatment compositions according to the invention are based preferably to at least 40 wt .-%, preferably> 50 wt .-%, particularly preferably> 60 wt .-% and in particular> 65 wt .-% water. In a particularly preferred embodiment included the hair treatment products continue to use organic solvents.

Solvent, used in the compositions of the invention are, for example, from the group or polyhydric alcohols, alkanolamines or glycol ethers, if so they are miscible with water in the specified concentration range. Preferably, the solvents are selected from Ethanol, n- or i-propanol, butanols, glycol, propane or butanediol, Glycerol, diglycol, propyl or butyl diglycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol methyl ether, Ethylene glycol ethyl ether, ethylene glycol propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, Diethylene glycol methyl ether, diethylene glycol ethyl ether, propylene glycol methyl, ethyl or propyl ether, butoxy-propoxy-propanol (BPP), dipropylene glycol monomethyl, or ethyl ether, di-isopropylene glycol monomethyl, or ethyl ether, Methoxy, ethoxy or butoxytriglycol, 1-butoxyethoxy-2-propanol, 3-methyl-3-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol t-butyl ether and mixtures this solvent. Particularly preferred are ethanol and glycerin.

The Means according to the invention may be one or more Solvent in an amount of usually up to at 50% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 40% by weight and in particular 1 to 30 wt .-%, each based on the total agent included.

For the case that the agent according to the invention as Shampoo is made up, it will continue to contain at least an anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and / or nonionic Surfactant.

Of the Total surfactant content in the detergents is 5 to 35%, preferably 7 to 25% and in particular 8 to 15% - related on the total weight of the detergent.

• – lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen (Seifen),
• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist,
• – Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen,
• – lineare Alkansulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – Alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen,
• – Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-OSO₃H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 ist,
• – Gemische oberflächenaktiver Hydroxysulfonate,
• – sulfatierte Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether gemäß DE-A-37 23 354 ,
• – Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen gemäß DE-A-39 26 344 ,
• – Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2–15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen,
• – Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate der Formel (II),
  
  in der R⁶ bevorzugt für einen aliphatischen Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, R⁷ für Wasserstoff, einen Rest (CH₂CH₂O)_nR⁶ oder X, n für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall oder NR⁸R⁹R¹⁰R¹¹, mit R⁸ bis R¹¹ unabhängig voneinander stehend für einen C₁ bis C₄-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, steht,
• – sulfatierte Fettsäurealkylenglykolester der Formel (III), R¹²CO(AlkO)_nSO₃M(III) in der R¹²CO- für einen linearen oder verzweigten, aliphatischen, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 C-Atomen, Alk für CH₂CH₂, CHCH₃CH₂ und/oder CH₂CHCH₃, n für Zahlen von 0,5 bis 5 und M für ein Kation steht, wie sie in der DE-OS 197 36 906.5 beschrieben sind,
• – Monoglyceridsulfate und Monoglyceridethersulfate der Formel (IV),
  
  in der R¹³CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, x, y und z in Summe für 0 oder für Zahlen von 1 bis 30, vorzugsweise 2 bis 10, und X für ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall steht. Typische Beispiele für im Sinne der Erfindung geeignete Monoglycerid(ether)sulfate sind die Umsetzungsprodukte von Laurinsäuremonoglycerid, Kokosfettsäuremonoglycerid, Palmitinsäuremonoglycerid, Stearinsäuremonoglycerid, Ölsäuremonoglycerid und Talgfettsäuremonoglycerid sowie deren Ethylenoxidaddukte mit Schwefeltrioxid oder Chlorsulfonsäure in Form ihrer Natriumsalze. Vorzugsweise werden Monoglyceridsulfate der Formel (VIII) eingesetzt, in der R¹³CO für einen linearen Acylrest mit 8 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen steht.

Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,

• - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• - linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms,
• Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• Mixtures of hydroxysulfonates,
• - Sulfated Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- and / or Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether according to DE-A-37 23 354 .
• - Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344 .
• Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (II),
  
  in the R ^{6 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{7 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ⁶ or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR ⁸ R ⁹ R ¹⁰ R ¹¹ , where R ⁸ to R ¹¹ independently of one another represent a C ₁ to C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical,
• Sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (III), R ¹² CO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M (III) in the R ¹² CO-- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk is CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n is a number from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation as described in US Pat DE-OS 197 36 906.5 are described
• Monoglyceride sulphates and monoglyceride ether sulphates of the formula (IV),
  
  in which R ¹³ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably, monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (VIII) are used, in which R ¹³ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acid salts having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the Alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group, Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups and the alkali and / or ammonium salts of Tridecethsulfats.

Especially preferred anionic surfactants are the alkali or ammonium salts of the lauryl ether sulfate having a degree of ethoxylation of 2 to 4 EO and the alkali metal and / or ammonium salts of Tridecethsulfats.

Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(-) or -SO ₃ ^(-) group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example Kokosalkyldimethylammoniumglycinat, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammoniumglycinat, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl 3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Amphoteric surfactants are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and which are capable of forming internal salts , Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropi onsäuren and Alkylaminoessigsäuren each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – mit einem Methyl- oder C₂-C₆-Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise die unter den Verkaufsbezeichnungen Dehydol^® LS, Dehydol^® LT (Cognis) erhältlichen Typen,
• – C₁₂-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl, beispielsweise Rizinusöl-hydriert+40 EO, wie es beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Cremophor CO 455 von der Firma SHC im Handel erhältlich ist,
• – Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Hydagen^® HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol-Typen (Cognis),
• – alkoxilierte Triglyceride,
• – alkoxilierte Fettsäurealkylester der Formel (V) R¹⁴CO-(OCH₂CHR¹⁵)_wOR¹⁶ (V)in der R¹⁴CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R¹⁵ für Wasserstoff oder Methyl, R¹⁶ für lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und w für Zahlen von 1 bis 20 steht,
• – Aminoxide,
• – Hydroxymischether,
• – Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate,
• – Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine,
• – Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide,

Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

• - Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• - with a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),
• C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• Addition products of from 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, for example castor oil-hydrogenated + 40 EO, as it is commercially available, for example, under the trade name Cremophor CO 455 from SHC,
• - polyol, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol types (Cognis),
• - alkoxylated triglycerides,
• Alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (V) R ¹⁴ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ¹⁵ ) _w OR ¹⁶ (V) in the R ¹⁴ CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{15 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{16 is} linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 stands,
• - amine oxides,
• - hydroxymix ether,
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
• Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
• Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
• Fatty acid N-alkylglucamides,

When preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations with excellent properties will also be obtained when they are fatty acid esters as nonionic surfactants of ethoxylated glycerol.

These Connections are identified by the following parameters. The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such Examples of alkyl radicals are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-Lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called "oxo-alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd predominate Number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain.

at it may be the compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant each are uniform substances. It is, however, in usually preferred in the preparation of these substances by native to go out with vegetable or animal raw materials, so that one Substance mixtures with different, from the respective raw material receives dependent alkyl chain lengths.

In the case of the surfactants which are adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. By "normal" homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrow homolog distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when at For example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

In some preferred embodiments according to the invention have surfactant mixtures of crosslinked or uncrosslinked anionic Surfactants such as sodium trideceth sulfate, amphoteric surfactants such as sodium lauroamphoacetate and nonionic surfactants such as Cocamide MEA, as for example under the Trade name Miracare SLB 365 MP are commercially available, as a particularly suitable surfactant basis.

in the Within this embodiment of the invention, the inventive means continue at least a preservative selected from the group that is formed from benzoic acid, propionic acid, salicylic acid and / or sorbic acid, as well as from the cosmetically acceptable Salts and esters of these acids, formaldehyl and / or Paraformaldehyde, from benzyl alcohol, Germall, Dowicil, Kathon, Baypival, Methylisothiazolines, quaternary ammonium compounds, Alcohols and / or from essential oils such as tea tree oil, Cineole, eugenol, geraniol, limonene, menthol and / or thymol.

For the case in which the inventive agent as Shampoo is made up, it may be preferred that this at least one antidandruff agent in an amount of 0.05 to 5 Wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 3.0 wt .-% and in particular of 0.3 to 2.0 wt .-% (based on the total agent).

This) is (are) for example selected from Piroctone oil amines, Climbazole, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, Sulfur, selenium sulfides, tar preparations, undecenoic acid derivatives, Burdock root extracts, poplar extracts, stinging nettle extracts, walnut shell extracts, Birch extracts, willow bark extracts, rosemary extracts and / or Arnica extracts.

For the case that the agents according to the invention are not as a shampoo (and thus primarily as a cleanser), but as a hair treatment agent with predominantly nourishing properties, they furthermore preferably contain cationic surfactants. To increase However, the care properties can also be an inventive Shampoo have a content of cationic surfactants.

Suitable according to the invention cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds or so-called esterquats.

preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, Dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, z. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, Distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as those under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83 known imidazolium compounds. The long alkyl chains of the above surfactants mentioned preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^{®, ®} and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercial stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is.

The cationic surfactants are in the inventive Agents preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Hair rinses, hair treatments, hair lotions, hair gels, hair sprays, hair foams, hair fixatives, hair lotions and hair colorants according to the invention can continue to be used, components common in these compositions hold. For example, the agent according to the invention further contains at least one member of the group of cationic, nonionic, anionic and / or aphoteren polymers, water-insoluble wax and oil components, vitamins, provitamins, protein hydrolysates, plant extracts, UV filters, amino acids , the water-insoluble silicones, the water-soluble silicones and / or the amodimethicones. Also, for a shampoo according to the invention, which, in addition to a good cleaning effect, also has nourishing properties, it may be advantageous to contain one or more of the abovementioned components.

in der R¹⁷= -H oder -CH₃ ist, R¹⁸, R¹⁹ und R²⁰ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus C_1-4-Alkyl-, -Alkenyl- oder -Hydroxyalkylgruppen, m = 1, 2, 3 oder 4, n eine natürliche Zahl und X^– ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion ist, sowie Copolymere, bestehend im wesentlichen aus den in Formel (III) aufgeführten Monomereinheiten sowie nichtionogenen Monomereinheiten, sind besonders bevorzugte kationische Polymere. Im Rahmen dieser Polymere sind diejenigen erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, für die mindestens eine der folgenden Bedingungen gilt:

• – R¹⁷ steht für eine Methylgruppe
• – R¹⁸, R¹⁹ und R²⁰ stehen für Methylgruppen
• – m hat den Wert 2.

Cationic polymers which are suitable according to the invention are polymers which have groups in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group independently of the pH of the agent These are generally polymers which contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups In particular those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C _1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain built up from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proved to be particularly suitable Homopolymers of the general formula (VI)

where R ^{17 is} -H or -CH ₃ , R ¹⁸ , R ¹⁹ and R ^{20 are} independently selected from C _1-4 alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4 , n is a natural number and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (III) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers. In the context of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:

• - R ¹⁷ is a methyl group
• - R ¹⁸ , R ¹⁹ and R ²⁰ are methyl groups
• - m has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ^- include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride.

One suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, Poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. The networking can, if desired, with Help multiply olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example Divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallylether, Polyallylpolyglycerylether, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred one Crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI Designation: PPG-1-trideceth-6)) are commercially available.

Copolymers having monomer units of the formula (VI) contain as nonionic monomer units preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters and methacrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ^® SC.

• – quaternisierte Cellulose-Derivate, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Celquat^® und Polymer JR^® im Handel erhältlich sind. Die Verbindungen Celquat^® H 100, Celquat^® L 200 und Polymer JR^®400 sind bevorzugte quaternierte Cellulose-Derivate,
• – hydrophob modifizierte Cellulosederivate, beispielsweise die unter dem Handelsnamen SoftCat^® vertriebenen kationischen Polymere,
• – kationische Alkylpolyglycoside,
• – kationiserter Honig, beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Honeyquat^® 50,
• – kationische Guar-Derivate, wie insbesondere die unter den Handelsnamen Cosmedia^®Guar und Jaguar^® vertriebenen Produkte,
• – Polysiloxane mit quaternären Gruppen, wie beispielsweise die im Handel erhältlichen erhältlichen Produkte Q2-7224 (Hersteller: Dow Corning; ein stabilisiertes Trimethylsilylamodimethicon), Dow Corning^® 929 Emulsion (enthaltend ein hydroxyl-amino-modifiziertes Silicon, das auch als Amodimethicone bezeichnet wird), SM-2059 (Hersteller: General Electric), SLM-55067 (Hersteller: Wacker) sowie Abil^®-Quat 3270 und 3272 (Hersteller: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternäre Polydimethylsiloxane, Quaternium- 80),
• – polymere Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze und deren Copolymere mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure. Die unter den Bezeichnungen Merquat^®100 (Poly(dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid)) und Merquat^®550 (Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid-Acrylamid-Copolymer) im Handel erhältlichen Produkte sind Beispiele für solche kationischen Polymere,
• – Copolymere des Vinylpyrrolidons mit quaternierten Derivaten des Dialkylaminoalkylacrylats und -methacrylats, wie beispielsweise mit Diethylsulfat quaternierte Vinylpyrrolidon-Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Copolymere. Solche Verbindungen sind unter den Bezeichnungen Gafquat^®734 und Gafquat^®755 im Handel erhältlich,
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymere, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Luviquat^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 und HM 552 angeboten werden,
• – quaternierter Polyvinylalkohol,

sowie die unter den Bezeichnungen

• – Polyquaternium 2,
• – Polyquaternium 17,
• – Polyquaternium 18 und
• – Polyquaternium 27 bekannten Polymeren mit quartären Stickstoffatomen in der Polymerhauptkette.

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

• - Quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as those under the names Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially available. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^{® ®} 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives
• - hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives, for example those sold under the trade name SOFTCAT ^® cationic polymers,
• Cationic alkyl polyglycosides,
• - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,
• - cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia® ^® Guar and Jaguar ^®,
• Quaternary group polysiloxanes, such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufactured by Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow ^Corning® 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also referred to as amodimethicones) , SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, Quaternium 80th)
• - Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze polymeric and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,
• - Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially,
• - vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
• - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,

as well as those under the designations

• - Polyquaternium 2,
• - Polyquaternium 17,
• - Polyquaternium 18 and
• Polyquaternium 27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.

Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ^® LM 200), known polymers. , Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP): Also according to the invention can be used the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 available are.

Other cationic polymers of the present invention, the "temporarily cationic" polymers. These polymers are usually contain an amino group present at certain pH values as a quaternary ammonium group and hence cationic. For example, chitosan and its derivatives are preferred, such as for example, under the trade designations Hydagen ^® CMF, Hydagen® ^® HCMF, Kytamer ^® PC and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 are freely available commercially. chitosans are deacetylated, in different degrees of deacetylation and varying degrees of degradation (molecular weights) are commercially available. Their preparation is z. B. DE 44 40 625 A1 and in DE 1 95 03 465 A1 described.

Particularly suitable chitosans have a degree of deacetylation of at least 80% and a molecular weight of 5 × 10 ⁵ to 5 × 10 ⁶ (g / mol).

to Preparation of preparations according to the invention must be Chitosan be converted into the salt form. This can by dissolving in dilute aqueous Acids take place. As acids are both mineral acids such as Hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid as well as organic acids, eg. B. low molecular weight carboxylic acids, Polycarboxylic acids and hydroxycarboxylic acids suitable. Furthermore, higher molecular weight alkyl sulfonic acids or alkyl sulfuric acids or organophosphoric acids used, as far as these are the required physiological Have compatibility. Suitable acids for transfer of chitosan in the salt form are z. Acetic acid, glycolic acid, Tartaric acid, malic acid, citric acid, Lactic acid, 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid, benzoic acid or salicylic acid. Preference is given to low molecular weight hydroxycarboxylic acids such as As glycolic acid or lactic acid used.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention as a cationic polymer at least one polymer selected from the group of cationic guar derivatives and / or Polyquaternium-7 (Merquat 550), Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-10 and / or Polyquaternium-67 (SOFTCAT ^® - Polymers) in the hair treatment compositions.

The or the cationic polymer (s) is (are) in the invention Resources - in relation to the total budget - in Contained amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%. Amounts of 0.2 to 3, in particular from 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.

When Water-insoluble oil components are mineral according to the invention or synthetic oils, as well as mixtures of these components.

As mineral oils are used in particular mineral oils, paraffin and Isoparaffinöle and synthetic hydrocarbons. An inventively employable hydrocarbon is for example that available as a commercial product 1,3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S).

When Synthetic oils come silicone compounds, in particular Dialkyl and alkylaryl silicones, such as dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, as well as their hydroxy-terminated, alkoxylated and quaternized analogs into consideration. Examples of such Silicones are those of Dow Corning under the designations DC 190, DC 200, DC 344 and DC 345 (cyclomethicone).

As an oil component may continue to serve a dialkyl ether.

Usable according to the invention Dialkyl ethers are in particular di-n-alkyl ethers with a total of between 12 to 36 C-atoms, in particular 12 to 24 C-atoms, such as Di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, Di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether, and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, Di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methylpentyl-n-octyl ether.

According to the invention particularly preferred is the di-n-octyl ether, which is commercially available under the name Cetiol ^® OE.

The agents according to the invention contain the water-insoluble oil component preferably in an amount range of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention can the effect of the drug combination of the invention be further optimized by further fatty substances. Among others Fats are understood to be fatty acids as well as natural and synthetic waxes which are both solid and liquid may be present in aqueous dispersion.

As fatty acids can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with 6-30 carbon atoms. Preferred are fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures, the z. As in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

The Use amount is 0.1-15 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy. In a preferred embodiment the amount is 0.5-10 wt .-%, with very special advantageous amounts of 1-5 wt .-% are.

As natural or synthetic waxes can be used according to the invention solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

• – Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat,
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, beispielsweise beschrieben in der DE-OS 197 56 454 , Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC).

Other fatty substances are, for example

• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
• Symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in US Pat DE-OS 197 56 454 , Glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC).

The Use amount of other fatty substances is 0.1-20 Wt .-% based on the total agent. Preferred are 0.1-10 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1-5 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy.

The Total amount of oil and fat components in the invention Means is usually 0.01-15 Wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.05-5 % By weight are preferred according to the invention.

Under According to the invention preferred vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives are such representatives usually understood to belong to groups A, B, C, E, F and H are assigned.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.01-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others
Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)
Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)
Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are for example the Panthenoltriacetat, the Panthenolmonoethylether and its monoacetate as well as in the WO 92/13829 disclosed cationic panthenol derivatives.
Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

The mentioned compounds of the vitamin B group are in the inventive Agents preferably in amounts of 0.01-2 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy, included. Amounts of 0.03-1% by weight are particularly preferred.

vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is in the inventive Preferably, in amounts of 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, based on the entire funds used. The use in the form of palmitic acid ester, the glucoside or phosphates may be preferred. The usage in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). tocopherol and its derivatives, including in particular the esters such as the acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate are in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts from 0.01 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is commonly used essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, Linolenic acid and arachidonic acid, understood.

Vitamin H. As vitamin H, the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imida zol-4-valeric acid, for which, however, has now prevailed the trivial name biotin. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

Prefers contain the preparations according to the invention Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, E, F and H. Of course, several Vitamins and vitamin precursors can be included at the same time.

The Total use of vitamins, provitamins, vitamin precursors and their derivatives in the inventive Means is - based on the total weight of the agent - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 3 wt .-%.

When Protein hydrolyzates in the context of the invention become protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives (H). Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures that are acidic, basic or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins) to be obtained. The term protein hydrolyzates according to the invention also Total hydrolyzates and individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids understood. Furthermore, according to the invention from amino acids and amino acid derivatives built-up polymers under the term Understood protein hydrolysates. For example, the latter are Polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc. Further Examples of usable according to the invention Compounds are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course can according to the invention also β-amino acids and their derivatives such as β-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid. The molecular weight of the Protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight of glycine, and 200,000, preferably, the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and quite more preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.

According to the invention Protein hydrolyzates both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, Kerstin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

Preferred according to the invention is the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Diahin ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex), Hydrosog ^® (Croda), hydro Lupine ^® (Croda), hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold, for example, under the names Lamepon® ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda) or crotein ^® (Croda).

The Protein hydrolysates or their derivatives are in the inventive Preparations preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Farther may in a preferred embodiment of the invention the effect of the preparations can be increased by UV filters. The invention to be used UV filters are subject in terms of their structure and their physical Features no general restrictions. Much more All UV filters that can be used in the cosmetics sector are suitable Absorption maximum in UVA (315-400 nm) -, in UVB (280-315 nm) - or in the UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filter with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, especially in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly prefers.

The According to the invention used UV filter for example, be selected from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic esters, Cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline-methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexylsalicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ^® M 40, Uvasorb MET ^{®, ®} Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ^® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts ( Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ^® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ^®), 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1- yl-methane sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) Methoxydibenzoylmethane -propane-1,3-dione (butyl; Parsol ^® 1789 Eusolex ^® 9020), α - (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ^® P 25), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ^® DMO, Escalol ^® 507, Eusolex ^® 6007), salicylic acid-2-ethylhexy ester (octyl salicylate; Escalol ^® 587, Neo Heliopan ^® OS, Uvinul ^® O18), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan ^® E 1000), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol ^® MCX, Escalol ^® 557, Neo Heliopan AV ^®), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ^® MS 40; Uvasorb S 5 ^®), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor (4-methylbenzylidene camphor; Parsol ^® 5000, Eusolex ^® 6300), 3-benzylidene camphor (3-benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'- ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl } -acrylamids, 2,4-dihydroxy (benzophenone-1; Uvasorb ^® 20 H, Uvinul ^® 400), 1,1'-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex ^® OCR, Neo Heliopan ^® Type 303, Uvinul ^® N 539 SG), o-aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (Menthyl Anthranilate; Neo He liopan ^® MA), 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxy benzophenone (benzophenone-2; Uvinul ^® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-6), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate, and 2-cyano-3, 3-diphenylacrylate 2'-ethylhexyl acrylate. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone , 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methanesulfonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, α- (2-oxoborn-3-yl) yliden) -toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2 Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-isopropylbenzylsalicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-) carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2- oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} acrylamide. Very particularly preferred according to the invention are 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and their potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) - Propan-1,3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor.

Prefers are those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum above 15,000, especially above 20,000.

Farther was found to be structurally similar UV filters in many cases, the water-insoluble Compound within the scope of the teaching of the invention the higher effect over such water-soluble Compounds that are distinguished from it by one or more additionally differentiate ionic groups. As water insoluble Within the scope of the invention, UV filters are to be understood which at 20 ° C to not more than 1 wt .-%, in particular to not more than 0.1% by weight, dissolve in water. Farther These compounds should be used in usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-% be soluble). The use of water-insoluble UV filter can therefore be preferred according to the invention be.

According to one Another embodiment of the invention are those UV filters preferably a cationic group, in particular a quaternary Ammonium group.

These UV filters have the general structure U-Q.

• – substituierte Benzophenone,
• – p-Aminobenzoesäureester,
• – Diphenylacrylsäureester,
• – Zimtsäureester,
• – Salicylsäureester,
• – Benzimidazole und
• – o-Aminobenzoesäureester.

The structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group. This group can in principle be derived from the known UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular having a quaternary amino function , Compounds from which the structural part U can derive are, for example

• Substituted benzophenones,
• P-aminobenzoic acid ester,
• - diphenylacrylic acid ester,
• - cinnamic acid ester,
• Salicylic acid ester,
• Benzimidazoles and
• O-aminobenzoic acid ester.

structural parts U, derived from cinnamic acid amide or N, N-dimethylamino-benzoic acid amide derive, are preferred according to the invention.

The Structural parts U can be chosen in principle be that the absorption maximum of the UV filter both in the UVA (315-400 nm) - as well as in the UVB (280-315 nm) - or in UVC (<280 nm) range can be. UV filter with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, especially in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

Farther becomes the structural part U, also depending on structural part Q, preferably chosen so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum above 15,000, in particular above from 20000, lies.

Of the Structural part Q preferably contains as a cationic group a quaternary ammonium group. This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so the structural part U is one of the four substituents of the represents a positively charged nitrogen atom. However, it is preferred one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom a group, in particular an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, as the connection between the structural part U and the positively charged Nitrogen atom acts.

Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure - (CH ₂ ) _x -N ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ X ^- , in which x is an integer from 1 to 4, R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are C _{1 -4} alkyl groups, R ³ is a C _1-22 alkyl group or a benzyl group and X is a physiologically acceptable anion. In the context of this general structure, x preferably represents the number 3, R ¹ and R ² each represent a methyl group and R ^{3 represents} either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.

physiological Compatible anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, especially chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, Tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.

Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid trimethyl ammonium chloride (Incroquat ^® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ^® HP 610).

Of course includes the teaching of the invention also the use of a combination of multiple UV filters. As part of In this embodiment, the combination is at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter preferred with a cationic group.

The UV filters (I) are used in the invention Usually in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, based on the total mean, included. Amounts of 0.4-2.5 % By weight are preferred.

According to one further preferred embodiment of the invention included the media as well at least one volatile or non-volatile, water-insoluble silicone, water-soluble and / or amino-functionalized silicone.

According to the invention suitable Silicones cause different effects. So influence for example, at the same time they can be dry and wet combed, the grip of dry and wet hair as well as the shine. Under the term silicones is understood by the person skilled in the art as meaning several structures of organosilicon compounds.

Dimethiconols (S1) form the first group of silicones which are particularly preferred according to the invention. The dimethiconols according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (S1-I): (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) (S1-I)

Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (S1-II):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D.

The Viscosities are measured between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs at 25 ° C with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of July 20, 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cps, particularly preferred viscosities are in between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50000 and 2000000 cps.

Of course The teaching according to the invention also includes that the dimethiconols may already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of Dimethiconole both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to those skilled in the art getting produced. For this purpose can be used as an aid for the production the corresponding emulsions both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers used as adjuvants become.

Of course, the emulsions of the dimethiconols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, refer to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989 , This reference is expressly incorporated by reference.

If the dimethiconols according to the invention as emulsion are used, then the droplet size is the emulsified particles according to the invention 0.01 microns to 10000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 microns, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 microns and most preferably 0.01 to 10 μm. The particle size is after determined by the method of light scattering.

Become used branched dimethiconols, this is to be understood as meaning that the branching is greater than a random one Branching caused by contamination of the respective monomers happens by chance. For the purposes of the present invention is therefore to be understood by branched dimethiconols that the Branching degree is greater than 0.01%. Prefers is a degree of branching greater than 0.1% and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is out of proportion the unbranched monomers, that is the amount of monofunctional Siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is the Amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes, determined.

According to the invention, both low-branched and hyperbranched dimethiconols can be quite be particularly preferred.

When Examples of such products are the following commercial products called: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Coming 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF-R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), B C Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401 DC (all the aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend (all aforementioned Dow Corning Corporation), Dub Gel SI 1400 (Stearinerie Dubois Fils), HVM 4852 Emulsion (Crompton Corporation), Jeesilc 6056 (Jeen International Corporation), Lubrasil, Lubrasil DS (both Guardian Laboratories), Nonychosine E, Nonychosine V (both Exsymol), SanSurf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish (both Collaborative Laboratories, Inc.), Silatex-D30 (Cosmetic Ingredient Resources), Silsoft 148, Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (all previously mentioned Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all previously mentioned GE Silicones), Taylor T-Sil CD-1, Taylor TME-4050E (all Taylor Chemical Company), TH V 148 (Crompton Corporation), Tixogel CYD-1429 (Sud-Chemie Performance Additives), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all aforementioned Wacker-Chemie GmbH).

If the dimethiconols (S1) are contained in the base composition, so these compositions contain 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% of dimethiconol based on the composition.

Also particularly suitable according to the invention are the so-called dimethicones (S2). These may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (S2-I): (SiR ¹ ₃ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiR ¹ ₃ ) (S2-I)

Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (S2-II):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R ¹ and R ² is an alkyl radical of 1 to about 6 carbon atoms enthä ^l t, and on bevorzugtesten is R ¹ and R ² is methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000.

Especially According to the invention, preference is given to the linear polydialkylsiloxanes, the polyalkylarylsiloxanes, the polydiarylsiloxanes and / or the dihydroxypolydimethylsiloxanes.

The molecular weights of the present invention suitable dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10000000 D.

The Viscosities of the invention suitable Dimethicones are usually between 0.01 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C using a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 0.1 and 5,000,000 cps, very particularly preferred viscosities lie between 0.1 and 3 million cps. The most preferred viscosity range the dimethicone is between 0.6 and 600,000 cps.

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethicones may already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicones can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicones from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of dimethicones can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, refer to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989 , This reference is expressly incorporated by reference.

If the Dimethicone invention as an emulsion are used, then the droplet size is the emulsified particles according to the invention 0.01 microns to 10000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 microns, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 microns and most preferably 0.01 to 10 μm. The particle size is after determined by the method of light scattering.

Become used branched dimethicones, so to understand it that the branching is greater than a random one Branching caused by contamination of the respective monomers happens by chance. For the purposes of the present invention is therefore to be understood by branched dimethicones that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Preferred is a degree of branching greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is calculated from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, too the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention both low branched and highly branched dimethicones entirely particularly preferred.

If the dimethicones (S2) are contained in the base composition, so these compositions contain 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% of dimethicone, based on the composition.

Dimethicone copolyols (S3) form another group of preferred silicones. Dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formulas: (SiR ¹ ₃₎ -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (Sirpe-O-) _y - (SiR ¹ ₃₎ (S3-I) or by the following structural formula: PE- (SiR ¹ ₂ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiR ¹ ₂ ) -PE (S3-II)

oder durch die Strukturformel (S3-IV):

Branched dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the structural formula (S3-III):

or by the structural formula (S3-IV):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. PE stands for a polyoxyalkylene radical. Preferred polyoxyalkylene radicals are derived from ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and glycerol. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 CPs, particularly preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that the Dimethiconcopolymere can already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicone copolyols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicone copolyols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of dimethicone copolyols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, refer to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989 , This reference is expressly incorporated by reference.

If the dimethicone copolyols according to the invention as Emulsion, then the droplet size is the emulsified particles according to the invention 0.01 microns to 10000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 microns, completely more preferably 0.01 to 20 microns, and most preferably 0.01 to 10 μm. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

Become used branched dimethicone copolyols, it is to be understood as that the branching is greater than a random one Branching caused by contamination of the respective monomers happens by chance. For the purposes of the present invention is therefore to be understood by branched dimethicone copolyols that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Prefers is a degree of branching greater than 0.1% and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is out of proportion the unbranched monomers, that is the amount of monofunctional Siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is the Amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes, determined. According to the invention both low branched and highly branched dimethicone copolyols be particularly preferred.

If containing dimethicone copolyols (S3) in the base composition are, then these compositions contain 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% of dimethicone copolyol based on the composition.

Aminofunctional silicones or amodimethicones (S4) are called silicones, which min at least one (optionally substituted) amino group.

Such silicones may, for. By the formula (S4-I) M (R _a Q _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2) x} (RcSiO _{(4-c) / 2) y} M (S4-I)

Will be described, wherein in the above formula R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R ¹ HZ, wherein R ^{1 is} a divalent connecting group attached to hydrogen and the Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one amino-functional group, carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms; "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000 , preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -.

Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _z NH ₂ , wherein z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NH, wherein both z and zz are independently 1 or more, which structure includes diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably a -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for Z is -N (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and z is 0.

Q is most preferably a polar, amine functional group of the formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ . In the formulas, "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c "is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3. The molar ratio of the R _a Q _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2} units to the R _c SiO _{(4-c) / 2} units is in the range of about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. When one or more silicones of the above formula are used, the various variable substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone blend.

• – G ist -H, eine Phenylgruppe, -OH, -O-CH₃, -CH₃, -CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH₂CH₃, -CH(CH₃)₂, -CH₂CH₂CH₂H₃, -CH₂CH(CH₃)₂, -CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, -C(CH₃)₃;
• – a steht für eine Zahl zwischen 0 und 3, insbesondere 0;
• – b steht für eine Zahl zwischen 0 und 1, insbesondere 1,
• – m und n sind Zahlen, deren Summe (m + n) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei n vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt,
• – R' ist ein monovalenter Rest ausgewählt aus
• – -N(R'')-CH₂-CH₂-N(R'')₂
• – -N(R'')₂
• – -N⁺(R'')₃A^–
• – -N⁺H(R'')₂A^–
• – -N⁺H₂(R'')A^–
• – -N(R'')-CH₂-CH₂-N⁺R''H₂A^–, wobei jedes R'' für gleiche oder verschiedene Reste aus der Gruppe -H, -Phenyl, -Benzyl, der C_1-20-Alkylreste, vorzugsweise -CH₃, -CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH₂CH₃, -CH(CH₃)₂, -CH₂CH₂CH₂H₃, -CH₂CH(CH₃)₂, -CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, -C(CH₃)₃, steht und A ein Anion repräsentiert, welches vorzugsweise ausgewählt ist aus Chlorid, Bromid, Iodid oder Methosulfat.

Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-II) R _'a G _3-a -Si (OSiG _{2) n} - (OSiG _b R' _{2-b) m} -O-SiG _3-a -R _'a (S4-II), contain, in which means:

• G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ ;
• A is a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0;
• B is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,
• M and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,
• - R 'is a monovalent radical selected from
• --N (R '') - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R '') ₂
• - N (R '') ₂
• - N ⁺ (R '') ₃ A ^-
• - N ⁺ H (R '') ₂ A ^-
• - N ⁺ H ₂ (R '') A ^-
• --N (R '') - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ R''H ₂ A ^- , wherein each R '' represents the same or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, the C _{1 -20-} alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

enthalten, worin m und n Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei n vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-III)

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.

These Silicones are classified as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration designated.

enthalten, worin R für -OH, -O-CH₃ oder eine -CH₃-Gruppe steht und m, n1 und n2 Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n1 + n2) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei die Summe (n1 + n2) vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.Agents according to the invention which are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-IV) are also particularly preferred.

in which R is -OH, -O-CH ₃ or a -CH ₃ group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150 , where the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These Silicones are called amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Independently of which amino-functional silicones are used are agents according to the invention are preferred in which the amino-functional silicone has an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g. The amine number stands for the milliequivalents Amine per gram of amino-functional silicone. It can be done by titration determined and also in the unit mg KOH / g.

If the amodimethicones (S4) are contained in the base composition, so these compositions contain 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% of amodimethicone based on the composition.

Become different silicones used as a mixture, so is the mixing ratio largely variable. However, all are preferably used for the mixture Silicones in a ratio of 5: 1 to 1: 5 in the case of a used binary mixture. A ratio of 3: 1 to 1: 3 is particularly preferred. Very particularly preferred mixtures contain all the silicones contained in the mixture as much as possible in a ratio of about 1: 1, in each case based on the amounts used in wt .-%.

If the silicone blend are included in the base composition, so these compositions contain 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% of silicone mixture based on the composition.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Polyole mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere an Glycerin,
• – Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester, Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettsäureglucamide,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,
• – Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen zu Beispiel das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov^®68,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Partialester von Polyolen mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen,
• – Sterine. Als Sterine wird eine Gruppe von Steroiden verstanden, die am C-Atom 3 des Steroid-Gerüsts eine Hydroxylgruppe tragen und sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine) wie auch aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterine) isoliert werden. Beispiele für Zoosterine sind das Cholersterin und das Lanosterin. Beispiele geeigneter Phytosterine sind Ergosterin, Stigmasterin und Sitosterin. Auch aus Pilzen und Hefen werden Sterine, die sogenannten Mykosterine, isoliert.
• – Phospholipide. Hierunter werden vor allem die Glucose-Phospholipide, die z. B. als Lecithine bzw. Phosphatidylcholine aus z. B. Eidotter oder Pflanzensamen (z. B. Sojabohnen) gewonnen werden, verstanden.
• – Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen, wie Sorbit,
• – Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate wie beispielsweise Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls^®PGPH),
• – Lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und deren Na-, K-, Ammonium-, Ca-, Mg- und Zn-Salze.

In a further preferred embodiment, the effect of the active ingredient combination according to the invention can be increased by emulsifiers. Such emulsifiers are, for example

• Addition products of from 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or from 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having from 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,
• Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
• Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68, -
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms,
• - sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
• - Phospholipids. Of these, especially the glucose phospholipids z. B. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from z. Egg yolks or plant seeds (eg soybeans) are understood.
• Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,
• - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH),
• - Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The agents according to the invention contain the emulsifiers preferably in amounts of 0.1-25 wt .-%, in particular 0.5-15 Wt .-%, based on the total agent.

When Furthermore, it has been shown to be advantageous that further polymers the effect of the preparations according to the invention can continue to support. In a preferred Embodiment are the inventive As a result, polymers have been added, both anionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers have been found to be effective.

at the anionic polymers, which the effect of the invention It can be assisted anionic polymers, carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups exhibit. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may be acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, Crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups can be used in whole or in part as Sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt available. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

When anionic polymers have proven to be particularly effective as the sole or co-monomer 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid contain, wherein the sulfonic acid group completely or partially as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt may be present.

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid, which is available for example under the name Rheothik ^® 11-80 is commercially.

Within In this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers from at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic Use monomer. Regarding the anionic monomers Reference is made to the substances listed above. preferred non-ionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, Methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product urchins ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (C ₁₃ -C ₁₄ isoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous within the scope of the teaching according to the invention.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1.9-decadienes crosslinked maleic acid-methyl copolymer available under the name Stabileze® ^® QM.

Furthermore, amphoteric polymers can be used as polymers to increase the activity of the preparations according to the invention. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ^- or -SO ₃ groups, and those polymers summarized containing -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ^® is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Represents methacrylic acid and its simple esters.

Further inventively usable amphoteric polymers are those in the British Patent Application 2,104,091 , of the European Patent Application 47,714 , of the European Patent Application 217 274 , of the European Patent Publication 283,817 and the German Offenlegungsschrift 28 17 369 mentioned compounds.

Prefers used amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are essentially composed of

• (a) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (G3-I), R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ^(-) (G ³ -I) in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another are alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A ^{(-) is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, and
• (b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (G3-II), R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (G3-II) in which R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention. With regard to the details of the preparation of these polymers is expressly based on the content of German patent application 39 29 973 Referenced. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (a) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{(-) is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate Ion is; Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the stated polymers.

The agents according to the invention can be used in one further embodiment nonionogenic polymers.

• – Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylester-Copolymere, wie sie beispielsweise unter dem Warenzeichen Luviskol^® (BASF) vertrieben werden. Luviskol^® VA 64 und Luviskol^® VA 73, jeweils Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere, sind ebenfalls bevorzugte nichtionische Polymere.
• – Celluloseether, wie Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose und Methylhydroxypropylcellulose, wie sie beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Culminal^® und Benecel^® (AQUALON) vertrieben werden.
• – Schellack
• – Polyvinylpyrrolidone, wie sie beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Luviskol^® (BASF) vertrieben werden.
• – Siloxane. Diese Siloxane können sowohl wasserlöslich als auch wasserunlöslich sein. Geeignet sind sowohl flüchtige als auch nichtflüchtige Siloxane, wobei als nichtflüchtige Siloxane solche Verbindungen verstanden werden, deren Siedepunkt bei Normaldruck oberhalb von 200°C liegt. Bevorzugte Siloxane sind Polydialkylsiloxane, wie beispielsweise Polydimethylsiloxan, Polyalkylarylsiloxane, wie beispielsweise Polyphenylmethylsiloxan, ethoxylierte Polydialkylsiloxane sowie Polydialkylsiloxane, die Amin- und/oder Hydroxy-Gruppen enthalten.
• – Glycosidisch substituierte Silicone gemäß der EP 0612759 B1 .

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

• - vinylpyrrolidone / Vinylester copolymers, such as for example, under the trade name Luviskol ^® (BASF) to be expelled. Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.
• - cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, as for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON).
• - shellac
• - polyvinylpyrrolidones, as for example under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).
• - siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes are suitable, nonvolatile siloxanes being understood as meaning those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ° C. under normal pressure. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups.
• - Glycosidically substituted silicones according to the EP 0612759 B1 ,

It According to the invention it is also possible that the preparations several, especially two different polymers same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or non-ionic polymer.

The Polymers are in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total Means, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5, especially from 0.1 to 3% by weight are particularly preferred.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention contain the hair dye of the invention to support the dyeing capacity at least a dye from the group of so-called substantive dyes.

there are dyes that raise directly on the hair and do not need an oxidative process to form the paint. Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, Nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.

The substantive dyes are each preferably in an amount from 0.001 to 20% by weight, based on the total application preparation, used. The total amount of substantive dyes is preferably at most 20% by weight.

Substantive Dyes can be anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive dyes are subdivided.

Anionic substantive dyes:

Particularly suitable anionic direct dyes are 6-hydroxy-5 - [(4-sulfophenyl) azo] -2-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt (CI 15.985, Food Yellow No. 3, FD & C Yellow No. 6), 2,4-dinitro-1 naphthol-7-sulfonic acid disodium salt (CI 10,316, Acid Yellow 1, Food Yellow No. 1), 2- (indan-1,3-dion-2-yl) quinoline-x, x-sulfonic acid (mixture of mono- and di-sodium Disulfonic acid) (CI 47,005, D & C Yellow No. 10, Food Yellow No. 13, Acid Yellow 3, Yellow 10), 4 - ((4-amino-3-sulfophenyl) azo) benzenesulfonic acid disodium salt (CI 13,015, Acid Yellow 9 ), 5-hydroxy-1- (4-sulfophenyl) -4 - [(4-sulfophenyl) azo] pyrazole-3-carboxylic acid trisodium salt (CI 19.140, Food Yellow No. 4, Acid Yellow 23), 3 - [( 4-phenylamino) phenyl] azobenzenesulfonic acid, sodium salt ((CI 13.065; Ki406; Acid Yellow 36), 9- (2-carboxyphenyl) -6-hydroxy-3H-xanthen-3-one (CI 45, 350; Acid Yellow 73; D & C Yellow No. 8), 5 - [(2,4-dinitrophenyl) amino] -2-phenylaminobenzenesulfonic acid, sodium salt (CI 10,385; Acid Orange 3), 4 - [(2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) a zo] -benzenesulfonic acid sodium salt (CI 14,270; Acid Orange 6), 4 - [(2-hydroxynaphth-1-yl) azo] -benzenesulfonic acid, sodium salt (CI 15.510, Acid Orange 7), 4 - [(2,4-dihydroxy-3 - [(2,4-) dimethylphenyl) azo] -phenyl) azo] -benzenesulfonic acid, sodium salt (CI 20,170; Acid Orange 24), 4-hydroxy-3 - [(2-methoxyphenyl) azo] -1-naphthalenesulfonic acid, sodium salt (CI 14,710, Acid Red 4) , 4-hydroxy-3 - [(4-sulfonaphth-1-yl) azo] -1-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt (CI 14,720; Acid Red No. 14), 6-hydroxy-5 - [(4-sulfonaphthalene) 1-yl) azo] -2,4-naphthalenedisulfonic acid trisodium salt (CI 16,255, Ponceau 4R, Acid Red 18), 3-hydroxy-4 - [(4-sulfonaphth-1-yl) azo] -2,7 -naphthalene-disulfonic acid trisodium salt (CI 16.185, Acid Red 27), 8-amino-1-hydroxy-2- (phenylazo) -3,6-naphthalenedisulfonic acid disodium salt (CI 17, 400; Acid Red 33, Red 33), 5- (acetylamino) -4-hydroxy-3 - [(2-methylphenyl) azo] -2,7-naphthalenedisulfonic acid disodium salt (CI 18.065, Acid Red 35), 2- (3-hydroxy-2,4, 5,7-tetraiodo-dibenzopyran-6-one-9-yl) -benzoic acid disodium salt (CI 45,430; Acid Red 51), N- [6- (Diethylamino) -9- (2,4-disulfophenyl) -3H-xanthen-3-ylidene] -N-ethylethanammonium hydroxide, inner salt, sodium salt (CI 45.100; Acid Red 52), 8 - [(4- (phenylazo) phenyl) azo] -7-naphthol-1,3-disulfonic acid disodium salt (CI 27.290, Acid Red 73), 2 ', 4', 5 ', 7'-Tetrabromo-3', 6'-dihydroxyspiro [isobenzofuran-1 (3H), 9 '- [9H] xanthene] -3-one disodium salt (CI 45.380; Acid Red 87), 2', 4 ' , 5 ', 7'-Tetrabromo-4,5,6,7-tetrachloro-3', 6'-dihydroxyspiro [isobenzofuran-1 (3H), 9 '[9H] xanthene] -3-one disodium salt (CI 45.410 Acid Red 92), 3 ', 6'-dihydroxy-4', 5'-diiodospiro [isobenzofuran-1 (3H), 9 '(9H) -xanthen] -3-one disodium salt (CI 45425, Acid Red 95 ), 2-hydroxy-3 - ((2-hydroxynaphth-1-yl) azo) -5-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, sodium salt (CI 15,685, Acid Red 184), 3-hydroxy-4- (3-methyl-5-oxo) 1-phenyl-4,5-dihydro-1H-pyrazol-4-ylazo) naphthalene-1-sulfonic acid sodium salt, chromium complex (Acid Red 195), 3-hydroxy-4 - [(4-methyl-2- sulfonphenyl) azo] -2-naphthalenecarboxylic acid calcium salt (CI 15.850: 1; Pigment Red 57: 1), 3 - [(2,4-dimethyl-5-sulfophenyl) azo] -4-hydroxy-1-naphthalene-sulfonic acid dinatrium salt (CI 14,700; Food Red No. 1; Ponceau SX; FD & C Red no. 4), 1,4-bis [(2-sulfo-4-methylphenyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone disodium salt (CI 61.570; Acid Green 25), bis [4- (dimethylamino) phenyl] - (3,7-disulfo-2-hydroxynaphth-1-yl) carbenium inner salt, sodium salt (CI 44,090, Food Green No. 4, Acid Green 50). , Bis [4- (diethylamino) -phenyl] (2,4-disulfophenyl) carbenium inner salt, sodium salt (2: 1) (CI 42.045, Food Blue No. 3, Acid Blue 1), bis [4- (diethylamino ) phenyl] (5-hydroxy-2,4-disulfophenyl) carbenium inner salt, calcium salt (2: 1) (CI 42,051, Acid Blue 3), N- [4 - [(2,4-disulfophenyl) [4 [ethyl (phenylmethyl) amino) phenyl] methylene] -2,5-cyclohexadiene-1-ylidene] -N-ethylbenzenemethanamine hydroxide, inner salt, sodium salt (CI 42,080, Acid Blue 7), (2-sulfophenyl) di [ 4- (ethyl ((4-sulfophenyl) methyl) amino) phenyl] -carbenium disodium salt betaine (CI 42.090, Acid Blue 9, FD & C Blue No. 1), 1-amino-4- (phenylamino) -9,10- anthraquinone-2-sulfonic acid (CI 62.055; Acid Blue 25), 1-amino-4- (cyclohexylamino) -9,10-anthraquinone-2-sulfonic acid, sodium salt (CI 62045; Acid Blue 62), 2- (1,3 dihydro-3-oxo-5-sulfo-2H-indol-2-ylidene) -2,3-dihydro-3-oxo-1H-indole 1-5-sulfonic acid disodium salt (CI 73,015; Acid Blue 74), 9- (2-carboxyphenyl) -3 - [(2-methylphenyl) amino] -6 - [(2-methyl-4-sulfophenyl) amino] xanthylium inner salt, sodium salt (CI 45.190, Acid Violet 9), 1-hydroxy-4 - [(4-methyl-2-sulfophenyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone sodium salt (CI 60,730, D & C Violet No. 2, Acid Violet 43), bis [3-nitro- 4 - [(4-phenylamino) -3-sulfophenylamino] -phenyl] -sulfone (CI 10.410; Acid Brown 13), 5-amino-4-hydroxy-6 - [(4-nitrophenyl) -azo] -3 (phenylazo) -2,7-naphthalenedisulfonic acid disodium salt (CI 20,470, Acid Black 1), 3-hydroxy-4 - [(2-hydroxynaphth-1-yl) azo] -7-nitro-1-naphthalene sulfonic acid chromium complex (3: 2) (CI 15,711, Acid Black 52), 4- (acetylamino) -5-hydroxy-6 - [(7-sulfo-4 - [(4-sulfophenyl) azo] naphth-1-yl) azo ] -1,7-naphthalenedisulfonic acid tetrasodium salt (CI 28,440, Food Black No. 1), 3 ', 3 ", 5', 5" -tetrabromophenolsulfonephthalein (bromophenol blue).

preferred anionic substantive dyes are among the international ones Designations or trade names Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57: 1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1 and Acid Black 52 known compounds.

Cationic direct dyes:

Particularly suitable cationic direct dyes are 9- (dimethylamino) benzo [a] phenoxazine-7-ium chloride (CI 51.175; Basic Blue 6), di [4- (diethylamino) phenyl] [4- (ethylamino) naphthyl]. carbenium chloride (CI 42,595; Basic Blue 7), di (4- (dimethylamino) phenyl) - (4- (methylphenylamino) -naphthalen-1-yl) carbenium chloride (CI 42,563, Basic Blue 8), 3,7-Di (dimethylamino) phenothiazine-5-ium chloride (CI 52.015 Basic Blue 9), di [4- (dimethylamino) phenyl] [4- (phenylamino) naphthyl] carbenium chloride (CI 44.045, Basic Blue 26 ), 2 - [(4- (ethyl (2-hydroxyethyl) amino) phenyl) azo] -6-methoxy-3-methylbenzothiazolium methylsulfate (CI 11.154, Basic Blue 41), 8-amino-2-bromo 5-hydroxy-4-imino-6 - [(3- (trimethylammonio) phenyl) amino] -1 (4H) -naphthalenone chloride (CI 56.059; Basic Blue No. 99), bis [4- (dimethylamino) phenyl] - [4- (methylamino) phenyl] carbenium chloride (CI 42,535, Basic Violet 1), tri (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) carbenium chloride (CI 42,520, Basic Violet 2), tri [4- (dimethylamino) -phenyl] carbenium chloride (C I 42,555; Basic Violet 3), 2- [3,6- (diethylamino) dibenzopyranium-9-yl] benzoic acid chloride (CI 45,170, Basic Violet 10), di (4-aminophenyl) (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) carbenium chloride (CI 42.510 Basic Violet 14), 1,3-bis [(2,4-diamino-5-methylphenyl) azo] -3-methylbenzene (CI 21.010, Basic Brown 4), 1 - [(4-aminophenyl) azo] -7 - (trimethylammonio) -2-naphthol chloride (CI 12.250; Basic Brown 16), 1 - [(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) azo] -7- (trimethylammonio) -2-naphthol chloride, 1 - [(4- Amino-3-nitrophenyl) azo] -7- (trimethylammonio) -2-naphthol chloride (CI 12.251, Basic Brown 17), 3 - [(4-amino-2,5-dimethoxyphenyl) azo] -N, N, N-trimethylbenzolaminium chloride (CI 12,605, Basic Orange 69), 3,7-diamino-2,8-dimethyl-5-phenylphenazinium chloride (CI 50.240, Basic Red 2), 1,4-dimethyl-5 - [(4- (dimethylamino) phenyl) azo] -1,2,4-triazolium chloride (CI 11.055, Basic Red 22), 2-hydroxy-1 - [(2-methoxyphenyl) azo] -7- (trimethylammonio) -naphthalene chloride (CI 12.245; Basic Red 76), di [4- (dimethylamino) phenyl] iminomethane hydrochloride (CI 41,000, Basic Yel low 2), 2- [2 - ((2,4-dimethoxyphenyl) amino) ethenyl] -1,3,3-trimethyl-3H-indol-1-ium chloride (CI 48.055; Basic Yellow 11), 3-methyl-1-phenyl-4 - [(3- (trimethylammonio) phenyl) azo] pyrazol-5-one chloride (CI 12.719, Basic Yellow 57), bis [4- (diethyla mino) phenyl] phenylcarbenium hydrogensulfate (1: 1) (CI 42.040; Basic Green 1), di (4- (dimethylamino) phenyl) -phenylmethanol (CI 42,000, Basic Green 4), 1- (2-morpholiniumpropylamino) -4-hydroxy -9,10-anthraquinone methylsulfate, 1 - [(3- (dimethylpropylaminium) -propyl) amino] -4- (methylamino) -9,10-anthraquinone chloride and substantive dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom ,

• (a) kationische Triphenylmethanfarbstoffe, wie beispielsweise Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 und Basic Violet 14,
• (b) aromatischen Systeme, die mit einer quaternären Stickstoffgruppe substituiert sind, wie beispielsweise Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 und Basic Brown 17, sowie
• (c) direktziehende Farbstoffe, die einen Heterocyclus enthalten, der mindestens ein quaternäres Stickstoffatom aufweist, wie sie beispielsweise in der EP-A2-998 908 , auf die an dieser Stelle explizit Bezug genommen wird, in den Ansprüchen 6 bis 11 genannt werden.

Preferred cationic substantive dyes are included

• (a) cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14,
• (b) aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as
• (C) direct dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, as described for example in the EP-A2-998 908 to which reference is made at this point, are called in the claims 6 to 11.

Preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c) are in particular the following compounds:

The Compounds of the formulas (DZ1), (DZ3) and (DZ5), which are also available under the terms Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51 are very particularly preferred cationic substantive Dyes of group (c).

The cationic direct dyes, which are sold under the trademark Arianor ^®, according to the invention are also very particularly preferred cationic direct dyes.

Nonionic substantive dyes:

When Nonionic substantive dyes are particularly suitable nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes.

Suitable blue nitro dyes are in particular:
1,4-bis [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene, 1- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitro-4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] benzene (HC Blue 2), 1-Methylamino-4- [methyl- (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Blue 6), 1 - [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -4- [ethyl- (2- hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene hydrochloride (HC Blue 9), 1 - [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -4- [methyl (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Blue 10) , 4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -1 - [(2-methoxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Blue 11), 4- [ethyl- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -1- [ (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene hydrochloride (HC Blue 12), 2 - ((4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) amino) -5-dimethylaminobenzoic acid (HC Blue 13), 1-amino-3 Methyl 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -6-nitrobenzene (HC Violet 1), 1- (3-hydroxypropylamino) -4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Violet 2 ), 1- (2-aminoethylamino) -4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene, 4- (di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino) -2-nitro-1-phenylaminobenzene.

Suitable red nitro dyes are in particular:
1-Amino-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Red 7), 2-amino-4,6-dinitrophenol (picramic acid) and its salts, 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene ( CI 76,070), 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine (HC Red 1), 1-amino-4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene hydrochloride (HC Red 13), 1-amino-4- [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Red 3), 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) methylamino] -1- (methylamino) -2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4 - [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -5-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4- (methylamino) -2- nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitro-1 - [(prop-2-en-1-yl) amino] benzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] - 3-nitrophenol, 4 - [(2-nitrophenyl) amino] phenol (HC Orange 1), 1 - [(2-aminoethyl) amino] -4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -2-nitrobenzene (HC Orange 2), 4 - (2,3-dihydroxypropoxy) -1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Orange 3), 1-amino-5-chloro-4 - [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] - 2-nitrobenzene (HC Red 10), 5-chloro-1,4- [di (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene zol (HC Red 11), 2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,6-dinitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid, 2 - [(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) amino] benzoic acid, 2 Chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4 - [(3-hydroxypropyl) amino] -3-nitrophenol (HC Red BN), 2,5-diamino-6 -nitropyridine, 6-amino-3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitropyridine, 3-amino-6 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitropyridine, 3-amino-6- (ethylamino) 2-nitropyridine, 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -6- (methylamino) -2-nitropyridine, 3-amino-6- (methylamino) -2-nitropyridine, 6- (ethyla mino) -3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitropyridine, 1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-6-nitroquinoxaline, 7-amino-3,4-dihydro-6-nitro-2H-1, 4-benzoxazine (HC Red 14).

Suitable yellow nitro dyes are in particular:
1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene (CI 76,020), 1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 2), 1- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 4), 1-amino-2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 5), 4 - [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] - 3-nitro-1-trifluoromethylbenzene (HC Yellow 6), 2- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrophenol, 2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -1-methoxy-5-nitrobenzene, 2-Amino-3-nitrophenol, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1-amino-2-methyl-6-nitrobenzene, 1- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene, 2,3- (dihydroxypropoxy ) -3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene, 3 - [(2-aminoethyl) amino] -1-methoxy-4-nitrobenzene hydrochloride (HC Yellow 9), 1-chloro-2,4-bis [(2-hydroxyethyl ) amino] -5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 10), 2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrophenol (HC Yellow 11), 1 - [(2'-ureidoethyl) amino] -4-nitrobenzene, 1 -Amino-4 - [(2-aminoethyl) amino] -5-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-chloro-4 - [(2 -hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 12), 4 - [( 2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-trifluoromethylbenzene (HC Yellow 13), 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitrobenzonitrile (HC Yellow 14), 4 - [(2 -Hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitrobenzamide (HC Yellow 15) 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methyl-1-nitrobenzene, 4-chloro-3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] - 1-nitrobenzene.

Suitable quinone dyes are in particular:
1,4-di [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone, 1,4-di [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone (CI 61.545, Disperse Blue 23), 1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methylamino-9,10-anthraquinone (CI 61,505, Disperse Blue 3), 2 - [(2-aminoethyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone (HC Orange 5) , 1-amino-4-hydroxy-9,10-anthraquinone (CI 60.710, Disperse Red 15), 1-hydroxy-4 - [(4-methyl-2-sulfophenyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone, 7- Beta-D-glucopyranosyl-9,10-dihydro-1-methyl-9,10-dioxo-3,5,6,8-tetrahydroxy-2-anthracenecarboxylic acid (CI 75,470, Natural Red 4), 1 - [(3 Aminopropyl) amino] -4-methylamino-9,10-anthraquinone (HC Blue 8), 1 - [(3-aminopropyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone (HC Red 8), 1,4-diamino-2- methoxy-9,10-anthraquinone (CI 62.015, Disperse Red 11, Solvent Violet No. 26), 1,4-dihydroxy-5,8-bis [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone (CI 62.500 Disperse Blue 7, Solvent Blue No. 69), 1,4-diamino-9,10-anthraquinone (CI 61.100, Disperse Violet 1), 1-amino-4- (methylamino) -9,10-anthraquinone (CI 61.105 , Disperse Violet 4, Solvent Violet No. 12), 2-hydroxy-3-methoxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, 2,5-dihydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, 2-hydroxy-3-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, N- {6 - [( 3-chloro-4- (methylamino) phenyl) imino] -4-methyl-3-oxo-1,4-cyclohexadien-1-yl} urea (HC Red 9), 2 - {{4- [di (2- hydroxyethyl) amino] phenyl} amino} -5 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2,5-cyclohexadiene-1,4-dione (HC Green 1), 5-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (CI 75,500, Natural Brown 7), 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (CI 75,480, Natural Orange 6), 1,2-dihydro-2- (1,3-dihydro-3-oxo-2H-indol-2-ylidene) 3H-indol-3-one (CI 73,000), 4 - {{5 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -1-methyl-1H-pyrazol-4-yl} imino} -4,5-dihydro-5 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) -imino] -1-methyl-1H-pyrazole sulfate (1: 1), hydrate (1: 1).

Suitable neutral azo dyes are in particular:
1- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-methyl-4 - [(4-nitrophenyl) azo] benzene (CI 11.210, Disperse Red 17), 1- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4 - [(4-nitrophenyl) azo] benzene (Disperse Black 9), 4 - [(4-aminophenyl) azo] -1- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-methylbenzene (HC Yellow 7), 2 , 6-diamino-3 - [(pyridin-3-yl) azo] pyridine, 2 - {[4- (acetylamino) phenyl] azo} -4-methylphenol (CI 11855, Disperse Yellow 3), 4 - [( 4-nitrophenyl) azo] -aniline (CI 11.005, Disperse Orange 3).

preferred Nonionic direct dyes are among the international ones Designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 known compounds, and 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2'-ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, 2 - [(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) amino] benzoic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, Picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.

It It is not necessary that the substantive dyes each represent uniform connections. Rather, conditioned by the manufacturing processes for the individual Dyes, in minor amounts still contain other components be, as far as they do not adversely affect the dyeing result or for other reasons, e.g. B. toxicological, excluded Need to become.

Farther can also be used as direct dyes in nature occurring dyes are used, as for example in henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, Sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, bluewood, madder root, Catechu, Sedre and Alkana root are included.

• a) einem pflanzlichen Farb- und/oder Haarpflegestoff
• b) einem Acylaminosäuresalz und/oder einem Glycolipid und
• c) einem Fettsäure- und/oder Glycerylester eines langkettigen Alkohols

zur Herstellung eines naturkosmetischen Haarbehandlungsmittels mit verbesserten kosmetischen Eigenschaften.A second object of the invention is the use of an active ingredient combination

• a) a vegetable color and / or hair care substance
• b) an acylamino acid salt and / or a glycolipid and
• c) a fatty acid and / or glyceryl ester of a long-chain alcohol

for the preparation of a natural cosmetic hair treatment composition with improved cosmetic properties.

One third subject of the invention is a method for hair treatment, in which the hair treatment agent according to the invention is applied to the hair, and optionally after an exposure time Rinsed with water from 30 seconds to 2 hours becomes.

The The following examples are intended to explain the invention in more detail, without restricting it to it.

The listed quantities in the examples relate, Unless indicated otherwise, by weight.

Examples:

1. Natural Hair Coloring Gel 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8th 9 10 11 12 ^Keltrol®1 CG 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 ^Texamid®2 558 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 glycerin 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 ethanol 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 Cutina ^®3 CP 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 ^{Naturechem®4} GMHS 2 ^Cetiol®5 LC 2 Cetiol ^®6 V 2 Cetiol ^®7 MM 2 Cutina ^®8 GMS V 2 1 ^Eumulgin®9 SG 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ^{Plantacare®10} 818 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Montanov ^®11 68 / L / 202 1 2 Inutec®12 ^H25 3 2 3 3 2 ^Cetiol®13 LDO 1 1 Cosmedia ^Guar®14 C 261 2 1 Lamesoft PO ^®15 65 2 1 2 Henna leaves red, extract 10 Henna leaves black, extract 10 Turmeric rhizome extract 1 Henna leaves red, powder 2 2 4 5 7 2 2 2 Henna leaves black, powder 1 2 1 1 Curcuma rhizome powder 1 1 3 orange oil 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 2. Natural hair care product 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8th 9 10 ^Keltrol®1 CG 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 ^Texamid®2 558 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 glycerin 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 ethanol 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 Cutina ^®3 CP 2 2 2 2 2 ^{Naturechem®4} GMHS 2 ^Cetiol®5 LC 2 Cetiol ^®6 V 2 Cetiol ^®7 MM 2 Cutina ^®8 GMS V 2 ^Eumulgin®9 SG 1 1 1 1 1 ^{Plantacare®10} 818 0.4 0.4 0.4 Montanov ^®11 68 / L / 202 1 2 Inutec®12 ^H25 3 2 3 3 2 ^Cetiol®13 LDO 1 1 Cosmedia ^Guar®14 C 261 2 1 Lamesoft ^{® 15} PO 65 2 1 2 orange oil 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

3. Used raw materials

• ¹ INCI name: Xanthan gum; CP Kelco
• ² sodium alginates; INCI name: Algin; Cognis
• ³ INCI name: Cetyl Palmitate; Cognis
• ⁴ INCI name: Glyceryl hydroxystearates; CasChem / Impag
• ⁵ INCI name: Coco Caprylate / Caprate; Cognis
• ⁶ oleic acid decyl ester; INCI name: Decyl Oleate; Cognis
• ⁷ INCI name: Myristyl Myristate; Cognis
• ⁸ glycerol monostearate / dipalmitate; INCI name: glyceryl stearate; Cognis
• ⁹ INCI name: Sodium stearoyl glutamate; Cognis
• ¹⁰ C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkyl polyglucoside; INCI name: Coco Glucoside; Cognis
• ¹¹ 68: INCI name: Cetrearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside; Seppic L: INCI name: C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ alcohols; C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ alkyl glucosides; Seppic 202: INCI name: Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside; Seppic
• ¹² Hydrolyzed inulin oligofructose; INCI name: inulin; Orafti
• ¹³ INCI name: Dicaprylyl Ether, Lauryl Alcohol; Cognis
• ¹⁴ INCI name: guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorides; Cognis
• ¹⁵ INCI name: Coco Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate; Cognis

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list The documents listed by the applicant have been automated generated and is solely for better information recorded by the reader. The list is not part of the German Patent or utility model application. The DPMA takes over no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• WO 02/30384 [0008]
• - EP 577143 [0009]
• - DE 3723354 A [0052]
• - DE 3926344 A [0052]
• - DE 19736906 [0052]
• - DE 4440625 A1 [0080]
• - DE 19503465 A1 [0080]
• DE 19756454 [0096]
• WO 92/13829 [0101]
• - GB 2104091 [0189]
• EP 47714 [0189]
• - EP 217274 [0189]
• EP 283817 [0189]
• - DE 2817369 A [0189]
• - DE 3929973 A [0191]
• - EP 0612759 B1 [0193]
• - EP 998908 A2 [0203]

Cited non-patent literature

• - "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pp. 204-308 , John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989 [0139]
• - "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering Volume 15, Second Edition, pp. 204-308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989 [0151]
• - "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pp. 204-308 , John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989 [0158]

Claims (14)

Hair treatment agent containing an active ingredient combination out a) a vegetable color and / or hair care substance b) an acylamino acid salt and / or a glycolipid and c) a fatty acid and / or glyceryl ester of a long-chain alcohol contains. Hair treatment composition according to claim 1, characterized that the vegetable dyes from the stems, flowers, Leaves, roots, barks, fruits and / or the Seeds of chamomile, hibiscus, safflower, sunflower, walnut tree, henna, Indigo plant, sumac, elderberry, rubiacee, turmeric, lotus, rhubarb, Sandalwood, campeche, brazil and pernambuco wood, alder, strawberry tree, Oleander, saffron, bloodwort, blackthorn, broom, wattle, and lichen Goldenrod to be selected. Hair treatment composition according to one of the claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the vegetable care substances are selected from vegetable oils and / or Plant extracts. Hair treatment composition according to claim 3, characterized that the vegetable oils are selected from Coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, Walnut oil, peach kernel oil, avocado oil, Tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, Sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, Rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, Thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grapeseed oil, Apricot kernel oil, orange oil, babushu oil, olive oil, Wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, Hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, Amaranth oil, jojoba oil and shea butter and the plant extracts are selected from green tea, white Tea, Oak bark, Stinging nettle, Hamamelis, Hops, Henna, Chamomile, Burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, Aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, Coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, Orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, Quenelles, yarrow, thyme, melissa, hominy, coltsfoot, vanilla, Marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root. Hair treatment composition according to one of the claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it comprises the components a), b) and c) in a weight ratio of (2-10) :( 0.1-1) :( 0.5-2) contains. Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the Acylaminosäuresalze are selected from condensation products of the amino acids with saturated and unsaturated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acids, preferably with C ₁₀ -C ₂₄ fatty acids and particularly preferably with C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty acids which are present in neutralized form as alkali metal, ammonium and / or alkyl amino salt. Hair treatment composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the Acylaminosäuresalze are selected from the sodium, potassium or ammonium salts of condensation products of glutamic acid, aspartic acid, glycine, alanine, lysine and / or arginine with saturated or unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty acids. Hair treatment composition according to one of the claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the glycolipids selected are from sugar surfactants, alkylpolyglycosides and glycosphingolipids. Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that component c) of saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acids, in particular C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, with saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted C ₈ -C ₃₀ -fatty alcohols, in particular C ₈ -C ₂₂ -fatty alcohols, and / or from saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted mono-, di- or triglycerol esters with C-chain lengths of 6 to 30, in particular from 8 to 22 ° C Atoms (per chain) are selected. Hair treatment composition according to one of the claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it further comprises at least one natural hydrocolloid (d)) selected from agar-agar, Alginates, carrageenates, carob gum, guar gum, xanthan gum, Gum arabic, flax seed, pectin, starch, tragacanth, modified cellulose such as cellulose ethers and / or cellulose esters, Proteins such as gelatin, bentonite and / or silica contains. Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it additionally contains a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohol, preferably a C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohol and in particular behenyl alcohol and / or arachidyl alcohol. Hair treatment composition according to one of the claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it is used as a shampoo, hair conditioner, Hair conditioner, conditioner, hair tonic, hair gel, hair spray, hair foam, Hair fixative or hair dye is made up. Use of a combination of active ingredients of a) one vegetable color and / or hair care substance b) an acylamino acid salt and / or a glycolipid and c) a fatty acid and / or Glyceryl ester of a long-chain alcohol for the preparation of a natural cosmetic hair treatment product with improved cosmetic Properties. Method of hair treatment, characterized that a hair treatment composition according to one of the claims 1 to 12 is applied to the hair and optionally after an exposure time of 30 seconds to 2 hours with water again is rinsed out.