DE102011089357A1 - Hair treatment agent useful for hair care, comprises four different quaternary ammonium compounds comprising e.g. quaternary imidazoline compounds, cationic keratin hydrolyzate, alpha-hydroxy acid, and ethanol or isopropanol - Google Patents

Abstract

Hair treatment agent comprises: (a) at least four different quaternary ammonium compounds comprising e.g. esterquats, quaternary imidazoline compounds (I), cationic surfactants (II), amines or cationized amines, poly(methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium compounds), quaternized cellulose derivatives, cationic alkyl polyglycosides, cationized honey and polymeric dimethyl diallyl ammonium salts or their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic and methacrylic acid; (b) at least one cationic keratin hydrolyzate (III); (c) at least one alpha-hydroxy acid; and (d) ethanol and/or isopropanol. Hair treatment agent comprises (in wt.%): (a) at least four different quaternary ammonium compounds (0.1-10) comprising (a1) esterquats, (a2) quaternary imidazoline compounds of formula (I), (a3) cationic surfactants of formula ((R4-N +>(R1)(R3)-R2)(A ->)) (II), (a4) amines and/or cationized amines, (a5) poly(methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium compounds), (a6) quaternized cellulose derivatives, preferably polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-67 or polyquaternium-72, (a7) cationic alkyl polyglycosides, (a8) cationized honey, (a9) cationic guar derivatives, (a10) chitosan, (a11) polymeric dimethyl diallyl ammonium salts or their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, preferably polyquaternium-7, (a12) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkyl amino alkyl acrylate and dialkyl amino alkyl methacrylate, preferably polyquaternium-11, (a13) vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium methochloride copolymers, preferably polyquaternium-16, (a14) quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, (a15) polyquaternium-74 and/or (a16) polyquaternium-71; (b) at least one cationic keratin hydrolyzate of formula (R11-X-R12) (III) (0.1-10); (c) at least one alpha-hydroxy acid (0.01-5); and (d) ethanol and/or isopropanol (1-50). R : 8-30C hydrocarbyl (optionally saturated and optionally branched); A : anion; R1-R4 : 8-30C alkyl (saturated, optionally branched and optionally substituted by at least one OH), H, CH 3, phenyl or benzyl; R11 : 11-24C hydrocarbyl (optionally branched and optionally saturated); R12 : protein, peptide or protein hydrolyzate; X : -N +>(R13) 2R14-, -N(R13)R14- or -C(O)-N(R15)R16; R13 : -(CH 2) x-CH 3; x : 0-22; R14 : -CH 2-CH(OH)-CH 2- or -(CH 2) x-; and R15, R16 : -H or -(CH 2) x-CH 3. Provided that R12 is keratin or keratin hydrolyzate. An independent claim is also included for treating keratin fibers, comprising applying the above hair treatment agent on the keratin fibers, and allowing the agent to stay in the keratin fibers until next hair wash. [Image].

Description

The invention relates to hair treatment compositions containing at least four selected quaternary compounds and at least one cationic proteolipid and at least one alpha-hydroxy acid in a cosmetic carrier and the use of these hair care compositions.

The cosmetic treatment of skin and hair is an important part of human body care. For example, human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with dyes, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations. In this case, means for changing or nuancing the color of the head hair play a prominent role.

Consumers expect a cosmetic product to deliver consistent product performance under all conditions of use. In surfactant cleaning formulations such as shampoos, shower gels, bath foams, etc., however, the viscosity is highly dependent on temperature, with the viscosity usually decreases with increasing temperature. As a result, a corresponding product is perceived by the consumer in the summer as "too thin" in winter as too viscous. In addition, the consumer expects identical product characteristics regardless of their location and the prevailing climatic conditions there.

The in temperature ranges, the normal application temperatures of the o.g. Means correspond, stable viscosity adjustment succeeds with certain polymers. However, the use of these polymers limits the freedom from formulation, since most viscosity regulators are sensitive to the electrolyte concentration of the agents and to their pH. Stable thickened formulations can therefore only be produced in the neutral pH range.

These agents in turn have the disadvantage that they can be protected for preservation against attack by microorganisms only with those preservatives that are considered critical by some consumers and are undesirable, for example because they split off formaldehyde.

Another problem is the incorporation of cationic care substances with it. These are highly desirable due to their exceptional care effects, but can not be combined with many conventional thickeners.

In addition, customary hair treatment compositions, especially hair conditioners and conditioners, generally contain relatively large amounts of fatty alcohols which, together with the quaternary ammonium compounds, bring about the conditioning and luster of the treated hair. On the other hand, just the fatty alcohol leads to a burden and weighting of the treated hair. The care effect is therefore not permanent and is completely overcompensated within a few hours of treatment by the adverse effects of the fatty alcohol.

It was therefore an object to provide hair treatment compositions which are viscosity-stable even when cationic care agents and alcohols in wide temperature ranges. Furthermore, the object was that these compositions contain as possible no fatty alcohol. A further object was that the effect of the compositions according to the invention corresponds to the action of a conditioner according to the prior art and, moreover, over a longer period, ideally at least 24 h, better 48 h, stops. A further object was that the compositions according to the invention can be offered in a dosage form which is easy for the consumer to use.

It has now been found that the combination of at least 4 selected different quaternary ammonium compounds and a specific cationic protein hydrolyzate and at least one alpha-hydroxy acid overcomes the disadvantages mentioned.

• a) mindestens 4 unterschiedliche quaternäre Ammoniumverbindungen in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,1 bis 10,0 Gew.% ausgewählt aus den Gruppen a1) der Esterquats und/oder a2) der quarternären Imidazoline der Formel (Tkat2),
  
  in welcher die Reste R unabhängig voneinander jeweils für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen und A für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion steht, und/oder a3) der kationische Tenside der Formel (Tkat1-1)
  
  In welcher die Reste R1, R2, R3 und R4 jeweils unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff, eine Methylgruppe, eine Phenylgruppe, eine Benzylgruppe, für einen gesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten Alkylrest mit einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, welcher gegebenenfalls mit einer oder mehreren Hydroxygruppen substituiert sein kann und A steht für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion, und/oder a4) der Amine und/oder kationisierten Amine und/oder a5) Poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammoniumverbindungen) und/oder; a6) quaternisierten Cellulose-Derivaten, insbesondere Polyquaternium 10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-72, und/oder a7) kationischen Alkylpolyglycoside und/oder a8) kationisiertem Honig und/oder a9) kationischen Guar-Derivaten und/oder a10) Chitosan und/oder a11) polymeren Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalzen und deren Copolymeren mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure, insbesondere Polyquaternium-7 und/oder a12) Copolymeren des Vinylpyrrolidons mit quaternierten Derivaten des Dialkylaminoalkylacrylats und -methacrylats, insbesondere Polyquaternium-11 und/oder a13) Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymeren, insbesondere Polyquaternium-16 und/oder a14) quaterniertem Polyvinylalkohol und/oder a15) Polyquaternium-74, a16) Polyquaternium-71,
• b) mindestens ein kationisches Keratinhydrolysates der Formel (I) R´-X-R´´ (I), in der – R´ für einen geradkettigen oder verzweigten, gesättigten oder ungesättigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 11 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen steht, – R´´ ein Protein, ein Peptid oder ein Proteinhydrolysat bedeutet, – X für -N⁺(R^III ₂)R^IV- oder -N(R^III)R^IV- oder -C(O)-N(R^V)R^VI- steht, – R^III -(CH₂)_x-CH₃ mit x = 0–22 bedeutet und – R^IV -CH₂-CH(OH)-CH₂- oder -(CH₂)_x- mit x = 0–22 bedeutet; – R^V und R^VI unabhängig voneinander für -H oder -(CH₂)_x-CH₃ mit x = 0–22 stehen; mit der Maßgabe, daß R´´ für Keratin oder ein Keratinhydrolysat stehen, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,1 bis 10 Gew.-%, und
• c) mindestens eine AHA-Säure in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,01 bis 5,0 Gew.% und
• d) 1 bis 50 Gew.-% Ethanol und/oder Isopropanol und/oder deren Mischungen

The present invention, in a first embodiment, is a hair treatment composition containing, based on the weight of the entire composition,

• a) at least 4 different quaternary ammonium compounds in a total amount of from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight selected from the groups a1) of the esterquats and / or a2) of the quaternary imidazolines of the formula (Tkat2),
  
  in which the radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A is a physiologically tolerable anion, and / or a3) the cationic surfactants of the formula (Tkat1-1)
  
  In which the radicals R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 are each independently of one another hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms which is optionally substituted by one or more A is a physiologically acceptable anion, and / or a4) of the amines and / or cationized amines and / or a5) poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium) and / or; a6) quaternized cellulose derivatives, in particular Polyquaternium 10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-72, and / or a7) cationic alkylpolyglycosides and / or a8) cationized honey and / or a9) cationic guar derivatives and / or a10) chitosan and / or a11) polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, in particular polyquaternium-7 and / or a12) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, in particular polyquaternium-11 and / or a13) vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, especially polyquaternium-16 and / or a14) quaternized polyvinyl alcohol and / or a15) polyquaternium-74, a16) polyquaternium-71,
• b) at least one cationic keratin hydrolyzate of the formula (I) R'-XR "(I), in which - R 'is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 11 to 24 carbon atoms, - R''is a protein, a peptide or a protein hydrolyzate, - X is -N ⁺ (R ^III ₂ ) R ^IV - or -N (R ^III ) R ^IV - or -C (O) -N (R ^V ) R ^VI -, - R ^III - (CH ₂ ) _x -CH ₃ where x = 0-22 and - R ^IV -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ - or - (CH ₂ ) _x - where x = 0-22; R ^V and R ^VI independently of one another are -H or - (CH ₂ ) _x -CH ₃ with x = 0-22; with the proviso that R'' is keratin or a keratin hydrolyzate, in a total amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and
• c) at least one AHA acid in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt.% And
• d) 1 to 50 wt .-% ethanol and / or isopropanol and / or mixtures thereof

Hair treatment compositions in the context of the present invention are, for example, hair conditioners, hair rinses, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, hair fixatives, mousses, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof.

As a first ingredient, the hair treatment compositions of the invention contain quaternary ammonium compounds in a total amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%. Preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 0.1 to 8.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, even further preferably 0.5 to 6 wt .-%, even more preferably 1.0 to 6 wt .-% and in particular 1.0 to 5.0 wt .-% quaternary ammonium compounds.

Quaternary ammonium compounds are in principle monomeric cationic or amphoteric ammonium compounds, monomeric amines, aminoamides, polymeric cationic ammonium compounds and polymeric amphoteric ammonium compounds. From these many possible quaternary ammonium compounds, the following groups have been found to be particularly suitable and are taken in each case in an amount of 0.1 to 10.0 wt.%. This amount is also not exceeded or exceeded when a mixture of different compounds of the quaternary ammonium compounds is used.

Esterquats according to the formula (Tkat1-2) form the first group.

• – ein verzweigter oder unverzweigter Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxylgruppe enthalten kann, oder
• – ein gesättigter oder ungesättigter, verzweigter oder unverzweigter oder ein cyclischer gesättigter oder ungesättigter Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxylgruppe enthalten kann, oder
• – ein Aryl oder Alkarylrest, beispielsweise Phenyl oder Benzyl,
• – den Rest (-X-R4), mit der Maßgabe, daß höchstens 2 der Reste R1, R2 oder R3 für diesen Rest stehen können:

Der Rest -(X-R4) ist mindestens 1 bis 3 mal enthalten. Hierin steht X für:

• 1) -(CH2)n- mit n = 1 bis 20, vorzugsweise n = 1 bis 10 und besonders bevorzugt n = 1–5, oder
• 2) -(CH2-CHR5-O)n- mit n = 1 bis 200, vorzugsweise 1 bis 100, besonders bevorzugt 1 bis 50, und besonders bevorzugt 1 bis 20 mit R5 in der Bedeutung von Wasserstoff, Methyl oder Ethyl,
• 3) eine Hydroxyalkylgruppe mit ein bis vier Kohlenstoffatomen, welche verzweigt oder unverzweigt sein kann, und welche mindestens eine und höchstens 3 Hydroxygruppen enthält. Beispiele sind: -CH₂OH, -CH₂CH₂OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH₂CHOHCH₃, -CH(CH₂OH)₂, -COH(CH₂OH)₂, -CH₂CHOHCH₂OH, -CH₂CH₂CH₂OH und Hydroxybutylreste,

und R4 steht für:

• 1) R6-O-CO-, worin R6 einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten oder einen cyclischen gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen ist, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxygruppe enthalten kann, und welcher gegebenenfalls weiterhin mit 1 bis 100 Ethylenoxideinheiten und/oder 1 bis 100 Propylenoxideinheiten oxethyliert sein kann, oder
• 2) R7-CO-, worin R7 einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten oder einen cyclischen gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen ist, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxygruppe enthalten kann, und welcher gegebenenfalls weiterhin mit 1 bis 100 Ethylenoxideinheiten und/oder 1 bis 100 Propylenoxideinheiten oxethyliert sein kann,

und A steht für ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion und wird an dieser Stelle stellvertretend für alle auch im folgenden beschriebenen Strukturen definiert. Das Anion aller beschriebenen kationischen Verbindungen ist ausgewählt aus den Halogenidionen, Fluorid, Chlorid, Bromid, Iodid, Sulfaten der allgemeinen Formel RSO₃ ^–, worin R die Bedeutung von gesättigtem oder ungesättigtem Alkylresten mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen hat, oder anionischen Reste organischer Säuren wie Maleat, Fumarat, Oxalat, Tartrat, Citrat, Lactat oder Acetat. Solche Produkte werden beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Rewoquat^®, Stepantex^®, Dehyquart^®, Armocare^® und Akypoquat^® vertrieben. Die Produkte Armocare^® VGH-70, Dehyquart^® F-75, Dehyquart^® C-4046, Dehyquart^® L80, Dehyquart^® F-30, Dehyquart^® AU-35, Rewoquat^® WE18, Rewoquat^® WE38 DPG, Stepantex^® VS 90 und Akypoquat^® 131 sind Beispiele für diese Esterquats. Here, the radicals R1, R2 and R3 are each independently and may be the same or different. The radicals R1, R2 and R3 mean:

• A branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
• A saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
• An aryl or alkaryl radical, for example phenyl or benzyl,
• The radical (-X-R 4), with the proviso that at most 2 of the radicals R 1, R 2 or R 3 can stand for this radical:

The rest - (X-R4) is contained at least 1 to 3 times. Where X stands for:

• 1) - (CH 2) n - with n = 1 to 20, preferably n = 1 to 10 and particularly preferably n = 1-5, or
• 2) - (CH 2 -CHR 5 -O) n - where n = 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,
• 3) a hydroxyalkyl group of one to four carbon atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, and which contains at least one and at most 3 hydroxy groups. Examples are: -CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₃ , -CH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -COH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ OH, CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH and hydroxybutyl radicals,

and R4 stands for:

• 1) R 6 -O-CO-, wherein R 6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units may be ethoxylated, or
• 2) R7-CO-, wherein R7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be ethoxylated,

and A is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion and is defined here as representative of all structures also described below. The anion of all described cationic compounds is selected from halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfates of the general formula RSO ₃ ^- , in which R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids, such as maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate. Such products are marketed under the trademarks Rewoquat ^®, Stepantex® ^®, Dehyquart® ^{®, ®} and Armocare® Akypoquat ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80, Dehyquart ^® F-30, Dehyquart ^® AU-35, Rewoquat ^® WE18, Rewoquat ^® WE38 DPG, Stepantex ^® VS 90 and Akypoquat ^® 131 are examples of these esterquats.

Further compounds of the formula (Tkat1-2) which are particularly preferred according to the invention belong to the formula (Tkat1-2.1), the cationic betaine esters.

R8 corresponds in its meaning R7.

Particularly preferred are the esterquats with tradenames Armocare ^® VGH-70 are, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® L80, Stepantex ^® VS 90 and Akypoquat ^® 131. Another group are quaternary imidazoline compounds. The formula (Tkat2) shown below shows the structure of these compounds.

The radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds of the formula (Tkat2) contain for R the same hydrocarbon radical. The chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 to 21 carbon atoms. A is an anion as previously described. Particularly examples according to the invention are obtainable, for example, under the INCII names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91. Quaternium-91 is most preferred according to the invention.

Cationic surfactants of the formula (Tkat1-1) can also be used.

In the formula (Tkat1), R1, R2, R3 and R4 each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally with one or more hydroxy groups may be substituted. A is a physiologically acceptable anion, for example halides such as chloride or bromide and methosulfates.

Examples of compounds of formula (Tkat1) are lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, dicetyldimethylammonium chloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate.

• 1) Wasserstoff oder
• 2) ein Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 C-Atomen, welcher gleich oder verschieden, gesättigt oder ungesättigt sein kann, und
• 3) eine verzweigte oder unverzweigte Hydroxyalkylgruppe mit ein bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen mit mindestens einer und höchstens drei Hydroxygruppen beispielsweise -CH₂OH, -CH₂CH₂OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH₂CHOHCH₃, -CH(CH₂OH)₂, -COH(CH₂OH)₂, -CH₂CHOHCH₂OH, -CH₂CH₂CH₂OH und Hydroxybutylreste, und

A ein Anion wie zuvor beschrieben und
n eine ganze Zahl zwischen 1 und 10 bedeuten. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention furthermore comprise at least one amine and / or cationized amine, in particular an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine having the following structural formulas: R1-NH- (CH _{2) n} -N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ⁴ A (Tkat3) wherein R1 is an acyl or alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein the acyl radical and / or the alkyl radical may contain at least one OH group, and
R2, R3 and R4 are each independently

• 1) hydrogen or
• 2) an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 C atoms, which may be identical or different, saturated or unsaturated, and
• 3) a branched or unbranched hydroxyalkyl group having one to 4 carbon atoms having at least one and at most three hydroxy groups, for example -CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₃ , -CH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -COH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH and hydroxybutyl radicals, and

A is an anion as previously described and
n is an integer between 1 and 10.

Preference is given to a composition in which the amine and / or the quaternized amine according to general formulas (Tkat3) is an amidoamine and / or a quaternized amidoamine, in which R1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, which may contain at least one OH group means. Preference is given here to a fatty acid radical of oils and waxes, in particular of natural oils and waxes. Examples of these are lanolin, bees or candellila waxes.

Also preferred are those amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R 2, R 3 and / or R 4 in the formula (Tkat3) represent a radical according to the general formula CH ₂ CH ₂ OR 5, where R 5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms , Hydroxyethyl or hydrogen. The preferred size of n in the general formula (Tkat8) is an integer between 2 and 5.

The alkylamidoamines can both be present as such and converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. According to the invention, the cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred.

Examples of such inventive commercial products are Witcamine ^® 100, Incromine ^® BB, Mackine ^® 401 and other Mackine ^® grades, Adogen ^® S18V, and as a permanent cationic aminoamines: Rewoquat ^® RTM 50, Empigen ^® CSC, Swanol ^® Lanoquat DES-50, Rewoquat ^® UTM 50, Schercoquat® ^® BAS ^® Lexquat AMG-BEO, or Incroquat ^® behenyl HE.

Other quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. Cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and tricetylmethyl ammonium chloride. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 22 carbon atoms. The abovementioned cationic surfactants can be used individually or in any desired combinations with one another, with amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, and very particularly preferably from 0 to 0, 1 to 5.0% by weight. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.

Other quaternary ammonium compounds are cationic and amphoteric polymers. The cationic and / or amphoteric polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers or polymers based on natural polymers, wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers. The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers, for example Trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, Trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary Vinylammoniummonomere with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, for example alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

From the large number of these polymers have proven to be particularly effective components of the active ingredient complex according to the invention:
Homopolymers of the general formula - {CH ₂ - [CR ¹ COO- (CH ₂ ) _m N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ⁴ ]} _n X ^- , in which R ¹ = -H or -CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from C 1-4 alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion. In the context of these polymers, those are preferred according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies: R ¹ is a methyl group, R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups, m is 2.

Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ^- include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to methosulfates and halide ions, in particular chloride.

in der die weiter oben genannten Definitionen für die Reste R¹, R², R³, R⁴, R⁵, R⁶ sowie die Indices n, m und die Gruppen Z, A, B, X gelten, und Monomeren aus der Gruppe Acrylsäure, Methacrylsäure, alpha-Ethacrylsäure, beta,beta-Dimethylacrylsäure, Methylenmalonsäure, Vinylessigsäure, Allylessigsäure, Ethylidinessigsäure, Propylidinessigsäure, Crotonsäure, Maleinsäure, Fumarsäure, Itaconsäure, Citraconsäure, Mesaconsäure, N-Methacryloylalanin, N-Acryloylhydroxyglycin, Sulfopropylacrylat, Sulfoethylacrylat, Sulfoethylmethacrylat, Sulfoethylmethacrylat, Styrolsulfonsäure, Vinylsulfonsäure, Vinylphosphonsäure, Phosphoethylacrylat, Phosphonoethylacrylat, Phosphopropylacrylat, Phosphonopropylacrylat, Phosphoethylmethacrylat, Phosphonoethylmethacrylat, Phosphopropylmethacrylat und Phosphonopropylmethacrylat sowie die Alkalimetall- und Ammoniumsalze dieser Säuren, sowie optional nichtionischen Monomeren aus der Gruppe Acrylamid, Vinylalkohol, C₁-C₄-Alkylester von Acrylsäure und/oder von Methacrylsäure, C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkylester von Acrylsäure und/oder von Methacrylsäure, insbesondere Ethylenglykol- und Propylenglykolacrylat und -methacrylat, polyalkoxylierte Ester von Acrylsäure und/oder von Methacrylsäure, insbesondere die Polyethylenglykol- und Polypropylenglykolester, Ester von Acrylsäure und/oder von Methacrylsäuremit Polyethylenglykol- oder Polypropylenglykol-mono(C₁-C₂₅)alkylethern, Vinylacetat, Vinylpyrrolidon und Methylvinylether, wobei die Monomere A2 und A3 gemeinsam 50 bis 99,9 % (bezogen auf die Gesamt-Anzahl an Monomeren im Copolymer) des Copolymers ausmachen. Suitable cationic polymers derived from synthetic polymers are, for example, copolymers of from 0.1 to 50% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of monomers of the formula (I)

in which the above-mentioned definitions for the radicals R ¹ , R ² , R ³ , R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and the indices n, m and the groups Z, A, B, X apply, and monomers from the group Acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, alpha-ethacrylic acid, beta, beta-dimethylacrylic acid, methylenemalonic acid, vinylacetic acid, allylacetic acid, ethylidynetic acid, propylidynetic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, N-methacryloylalanine, N-acryloylhydroxyglycine, sulfopropyl acrylate, sulfoethyl acrylate, sulfoethyl methacrylate, Sulfoethyl methacrylate, styrenesulfonic acid, vinylsulfonic acid, vinylphosphonic acid, phosphoethyl acrylate, phosphonoethyl acrylate, phosphopropyl acrylate, phosphonopropyl acrylate, phosphoethyl methacrylate, phosphonoethyl methacrylate, phosphopropyl methacrylate and phosphonopropyl methacrylate and the alkali metal and ammonium salts of these acids, and optionally nonionic monomers from the group acrylamide, vinyl alcohol, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radicals r of acrylic acid and / or of methacrylic acid, C ₁ -C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl esters of acrylic acid and / or of methacrylic acid, in particular ethylene glycol and propylene glycol acrylate and methacrylate, polyalkoxylated esters of acrylic acid and / or of methacrylic acid, in particular the polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol esters, Esters of acrylic acid and / or of methacrylic acid with polyethylene glycol or polypropylene glycol mono (C ₁ -C ₂₅ ) alkyl ethers, vinyl acetate, vinyl pyrrolidone and methyl vinyl ether, wherein the monomers A2 and A3 together from 50 to 99.9% (based on the total number Monomers in the copolymer) of the copolymer.

In the formula (I) for the monomer (A), R ^{1 is} preferably a methyl group, and also R ² , R ³ , R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ are methyl groups. The group Z is preferably an -NH group, the index n is particularly preferably the number 3.

• A1) 0,1 bis 50 %, vorzugsweise 10 bis 50 % (bezogen auf die Gesamt-Anzahl an Monomeren im Copolymer) Monomeren der Formel (Ia)
  
  in der X steht für Chlorid, Sulfat, Methosulfat,
• A2) Monomere aus der Gruppe Acrylsäure, Methacrylsäure sowie den Alkalimetall- und Ammoniumsalzen dieser Säuren,

wobei das Monomere A2 50 bis 99,9 %, vorzugsweise 50 bis 90 % (bezogen auf die Gesamt-Anzahl an Monomeren im Copolymer) des Copolymers ausmacht;
enthalten. Depending on the choice of the groups A and B and the index m, various monomers of the formula (I) may be preferred. A preferred monomer corresponding to the criteria mentioned in the previous paragraph also has, as group B, a -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ group, and the subscript m is the number 0. Polymers containing such monomers , are preferably used within narrower ranges. Thus, according to the invention preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 1 wt .-%, more preferably 0 , 0075 to 0.75 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-% of at least one copolymer A from

• A1) from 0.1 to 50%, preferably from 10 to 50% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of monomers of the formula (Ia)
  
  in the X stands for chloride, sulphate, methosulphate,
• A2) monomers from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and the alkali metal and ammonium salts of these acids,

wherein the monomer A2 represents 50 to 99.9%, preferably 50 to 90% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of the copolymer;
contain.

in der
p steht für 2, 3 oder 4,
X steht für Chlorid, Sulfat, Methosulfat,

• A2) Monomere aus der Gruppe Acrylsäure, Methacrylsäure sowie den Alkalimetall- und Ammoniumsalzen dieser Säuren,

wobei das Monomere A2 50 bis 99,9 %, vorzugsweise 50 bis 90 % (bezogen auf die Gesamt-Anzahl an Monomeren im Copolymer) des Copolymers ausmacht; enthalten. A further preferred monomer, which corresponds to the criteria mentioned in the preceding paragraph, furthermore possesses, as group B, a -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ group, as group A a - (CH ₂ ) ₂ - or a - ( CH ₂ ) ₃ - or a - (CH ₂ ) ₄ group, and the subscript m represents the number 1. Polymers containing such monomers are also preferably used within narrower ranges. Thus, according to the invention preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 1 wt .-%, more preferably 0 , 0075 to 0.75 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-% of at least one copolymer A from A1) 0.1 to 50%, preferably 10 to 50% (based on the total number of Monomers in the copolymer) monomers of the formula (Ib)

in the
p is 2, 3 or 4,
X is chloride, sulphate, methosulphate,

• A2) monomers from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and the alkali metal and ammonium salts of these acids,

wherein the monomer A2 represents 50 to 99.9%, preferably 50 to 90% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of the copolymer; contain.

Particularly preferred monomers A2 are acrylic acid or its salts (also mixed, ie partially neutralized acrylic acids) and also acrylamide. A preferred copolymer A is a copolymer of the monomer (Ia), sodium acrylate and acrylamide, the following distribution (in% of the total monomers contained in the polymer) being preferred: Monomer (Ia): 0.1 to 50%, preferably 10 to 50% sodium: 10 to 95%, preferably for 50 to 70% acrylamide: 0 to 50%, preferably 0 to 30%

Preferably, a preferred copolymer A contains the following number of the respective monomers: Monomer (Ia): Values from 1 to 12500, preferably from 2 to 8000, more preferably from 3 to 4000 and in particular from 5 to 2000 sodium: Values from 1 to 24,000, preferably from 5 to 15,000, more preferably from 10 to 10,000 and in particular from 100 to 4800 acrylamide: Values 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, with the value 0 being preferred

enthalten, in der gilt: x + y + z = Q Q steht für Werte von 3 bis 55000, vorzugsweise von 10 bis 25000, besonders bevorzugt von 50 bis 15000, weiter bevorzugt von 100 bis 10000, noch weiter bevorzugt von 500 bis 8000 und insbesondere von 1000 bis 5000,
x steht für (0 bis 0,5) Q, vorzugsweise für (0 bis 0,3) Q und insbesondere für die Werte 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, wobei der Wert 0 bevorzugt ist,
y steht für (0,1 bis 0,95) Q, vorzugsweise für (0,5 bis 0,7) Q und insbesondere für Werte von 1 bis 24000, vorzugsweise von 5 bis 15000, besonders bevorzugt von 10 bis 10000 und insbesondere von 100 bis 4800,
z steht für (0,001 bis 0,5) Q, vorzugsweise für (0,1 bis 0,5) Q und insbesondere für Werte von 1 bis 12500, vorzugsweise von 2 bis 8000, besonders bevorzugt von 3 bis 4000 und insbesondere von 5 bis 2000. In summary, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.0025 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.0075 to 0.75% by weight and in particular 0.01 to 0.5% by weight of at least one copolymer A of the general formula (Ic)

contain, in which applies: x + y + z = Q Q is from 3 to 55,000, preferably from 10 to 25,000, particularly preferably from 50 to 15,000, more preferably from 100 to 10,000, even more preferably from 500 to 8000 and in particular from 1000 to 5000,
x stands for (0 to 0.5) Q, preferably for (0 to 0.3) Q and in particular for the values 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, wherein the value 0 is preferred,
y stands for (0.1 to 0.95) Q, preferably for (0.5 to 0.7) Q and in particular for values of 1 to 24000, preferably of 5 to 15000, particularly preferably of 10 to 10000 and in particular of 100 to 4800,
z stands for (0.001 to 0.5) Q, preferably for (0.1 to 0.5) Q and in particular for values from 1 to 12500, preferably from 2 to 8000, particularly preferably from 3 to 4000 and in particular from 5 to 2000th

In addition to the abovementioned copolymer or in its place, the compositions according to the invention may also contain a copolymer which is composed of monomers of the formula (Ia), maleic or fumaric acid (or their disodium salts) and acrylamide. In this case, the following distribution (in% of the total monomers contained in the polymer) is preferred: Monomer (Ia): 0.1 to 50%, preferably 10 to 50% Maleic acid or fumaric acid (or their disodium salt): 10 to 95%, preferably for 50 up to 70% acrylamide: 0 to 50%, preferably 0 to 30 %

Preferably, a preferred copolymer A contains the following number of the respective monomers: Monomer (Ia): Values from 1 to 12500, preferably from 2 to 8000, more preferably from 3 to 4000 and especially from 5 to 2000 Maleic acid or fumaric acid (or their disodium salt): Values from 1 to 24000, preferably from 5 to 15,000, more preferably from 10 to 10000 and in particular of 100 up to 4800 acrylamide: Values 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, where the Value 0 is preferred

enthalten, in der gilt: x + y + z = Q Q steht für Werte von 3 bis 55000, vorzugsweise von 10 bis 25000, besonders bevorzugt von 50 bis 15000, weiter bevorzugt von 100 bis 10000, noch weiter bevorzugt von 500 bis 8000 und insbesondere von 1000 bis 5000,
x steht für (0 bis 0,5) Q, vorzugsweise für (0 bis 0,3) Q und insbesondere für die Werte 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, wobei der Wert 0 bevorzugt ist,
y steht für (0,1 bis 0,95) Q, vorzugsweise für (0,5 bis 0,7) Q und insbesondere für Werte von 1 bis 24000, vorzugsweise von 5 bis 15000, besonders bevorzugt von 10 bis 10000 und insbesondere von 100 bis 4800,
z steht für (0,001 bis 0,5) Q, vorzugsweise für (0,1 bis 0,5) Q und insbesondere für Werte von 1 bis 12500, vorzugsweise von 2 bis 8000, besonders bevorzugt von 3 bis 4000 und insbesondere von 5 bis 2000. In summary, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.0025 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.0075 to 0.75% by weight and in particular 0.01 to 0.5% by weight of at least one copolymer A of the general formula (Id)

contain, in which applies: x + y + z = Q Q is from 3 to 55,000, preferably from 10 to 25,000, particularly preferably from 50 to 15,000, more preferably from 100 to 10,000, even more preferably from 500 to 8000 and in particular from 1000 to 5000,
x stands for (0 to 0.5) Q, preferably for (0 to 0.3) Q and in particular for the values 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, wherein the value 0 is preferred,
y stands for (0.1 to 0.95) Q, preferably for (0.5 to 0.7) Q and in particular for values of 1 to 24000, preferably of 5 to 15000, particularly preferably of 10 to 10000 and in particular of 100 to 4800,
z stands for (0.001 to 0.5) Q, preferably for (0.1 to 0.5) Q and in particular for values from 1 to 12500, preferably from 2 to 8000, particularly preferably from 3 to 4000 and in particular from 5 to 2000th

In addition to or in place of the abovementioned copolymers, the compositions according to the invention may also comprise a copolymer which is made up of monomers of the formula (Ia), vinylsulfonic acid (or its sodium salt) and acrylamide. In this case, the following distribution (in% of the total monomers contained in the polymer) is preferred: Monomer (Ia): 0.1 to 50%, preferably 10 to 50% sodium vinyl sulfonate: 10 to 95%, preferably for 50 to 70% acrylamide: 0 to 50%, preferably 0 to 30%

Preferably, a preferred copolymer A contains the following number of the respective monomers: Monomer (Ia): Values from 1 to 12500, preferably from 2 to 8000, especially preferably from 3 to 4000 and especially from 5 to 2000 sodium vinyl sulfonate: Values from 1 to 24,000, preferably from 5 to 15,000, especially preferably from 10 to 10,000 and in particular from 100 to 4800 acrylamide: Values 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, with the value 0 being preferred

enthalten, in der gilt: x + y + z = Q Q steht für Werte von 3 bis 55000, vorzugsweise von 10 bis 25000, besonders bevorzugt von 50 bis 15000, weiter bevorzugt von 100 bis 10000, noch weiter bevorzugt von 500 bis 8000 und insbesondere von 1000 bis 5000,
x steht für (0 bis 0,5) Q, vorzugsweise für (0 bis 0,3) Q und insbesondere für die Werte 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, wobei der Wert 0 bevorzugt ist,
y steht für (0,1 bis 0,95) Q, vorzugsweise für (0,5 bis 0,7) Q und insbesondere für Werte von 1 bis 24000, vorzugsweise von 5 bis 15000, besonders bevorzugt von 10 bis 10000 und insbesondere von 100 bis 4800,
z steht für (0,001 bis 0,5) Q, vorzugsweise für (0,1 bis 0,5) Q und insbesondere für Werte von 1 bis 12500, vorzugsweise von 2 bis 8000, besonders bevorzugt von 3 bis 4000 und insbesondere von 5 bis 2000. Zusätzlich zu den vorstehend genannten Copolymeren oder an deren Stelle können die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel auch ein Copolymer enthalten, das aus Monomeren der Formel (Ia), Styrolsulfonsäure (bzw. deren Natriumsalz) und Acrylamid aufgebaut ist. Hierbei ist folgende Verteilung (in % der insgesamt im Polymer enthaltenen Monomere) bevorzugt: Monomer (Ia): 0,1 bis 50 %, vorzugsweise 10 bis 50 % Natriumstyrolsulfonat: 10 bis 95 %, vorzugsweise für 50 bis 70 % Acrylamid: 0 bis 50 %, vorzugsweise 0 bis 30 % In summary, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.0025 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.0075 to 0.75% by weight and in particular 0.01 to 0.5% by weight of at least one copolymer A of the general formula (Ie)

contain, in which applies: x + y + z = Q Q is from 3 to 55,000, preferably from 10 to 25,000, particularly preferably from 50 to 15,000, more preferably from 100 to 10,000, even more preferably from 500 to 8000 and in particular from 1000 to 5000,
x stands for (0 to 0.5) Q, preferably for (0 to 0.3) Q and in particular for the values 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, wherein the value 0 is preferred,
y stands for (0.1 to 0.95) Q, preferably for (0.5 to 0.7) Q and in particular for values of 1 to 24000, preferably of 5 to 15000, particularly preferably of 10 to 10000 and in particular of 100 to 4800,
z stands for (0.001 to 0.5) Q, preferably for (0.1 to 0.5) Q and in particular for values from 1 to 12500, preferably from 2 to 8000, particularly preferably from 3 to 4000 and in particular from 5 to 2000. In addition to or in place of the abovementioned copolymers, the agents according to the invention may also contain a copolymer which is composed of monomers of the formula (Ia), styrenesulfonic acid (or its sodium salt) and acrylamide. In this case, the following distribution (in% of the total monomers contained in the polymer) is preferred: Monomer (Ia): 0.1 to 50%, preferably 10 to 50% sodiumstyrenesulfonate: 10 to 95%, preferably for 50 to 70% acrylamide: 0 to 50%, preferably 0 to 30%

Preferably, a preferred copolymer A contains the following number of the respective monomers: Monomer (Ia): Values from 1 to 12500, preferably from 2 to 8000, especially preferably from 3 to 4000 and especially from 5 to 2000 sodiumstyrenesulfonate: Values from 1 to 24,000, preferably from 5 to 15,000, especially preferably from 10 to 10,000 and in particular from 100 to 4800 acrylamide: Values 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, with the value 0 being preferred

enthalten, in der gilt: x + y + z = Q Q steht für Werte von 3 bis 55000, vorzugsweise von 10 bis 25000, besonders bevorzugt von 50 bis 15000, weiter bevorzugt von 100 bis 10000, noch weiter bevorzugt von 500 bis 8000 und insbesondere von 1000 bis 5000,
x steht für (0 bis 0,5) Q, vorzugsweise für (0 bis 0,3) Q und insbesondere für die Werte 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, wobei der Wert 0 bevorzugt ist,
y steht für (0,1 bis 0,95) Q, vorzugsweise für (0,5 bis 0,7) Q und insbesondere für Werte von 1 bis 24000, vorzugsweise von 5 bis 15000, besonders bevorzugt von 10 bis 10000 und insbesondere von 100 bis 4800,
z steht für (0,001 bis 0,5) Q, vorzugsweise für (0,1 bis 0,5) Q und insbesondere für Werte von 1 bis 12500, vorzugsweise von 2 bis 8000, besonders bevorzugt von 3 bis 4000 und insbesondere von 5 bis 2000. In summary, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.0025 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.0075 to 0.75% by weight and in particular 0.01 to 0.5% by weight of at least one copolymer A of the general formula (If)

contain, in which applies: x + y + z = Q Q is from 3 to 55,000, preferably from 10 to 25,000, particularly preferably from 50 to 15,000, more preferably from 100 to 10,000, even more preferably from 500 to 8000 and in particular from 1000 to 5000,
x stands for (0 to 0.5) Q, preferably for (0 to 0.3) Q and in particular for the values 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, wherein the value 0 is preferred,
y stands for (0.1 to 0.95) Q, preferably for (0.5 to 0.7) Q and in particular for values of 1 to 24000, preferably of 5 to 15000, particularly preferably of 10 to 10000 and in particular of 100 to 4800,
z stands for (0.001 to 0.5) Q, preferably for (0.1 to 0.5) Q and in particular for values from 1 to 12500, preferably from 2 to 8000, particularly preferably from 3 to 4000 and in particular from 5 to 2000th

Regardless of which of the preferred copolymers A of the formulas (Ic) to (If) are used, preference is given to hair treatment compositions according to the invention which are characterized in that the ratio of (y: z) is 4: 1 to 1: 2, preferably 4: 1 to 1: 1. Regardless of which copolymers A are used in the compositions according to the invention, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer A has a molecular weight of 10,000 to 20 million gmol ^-1 , preferably from 100,000 to 10 million gmol ^-1 , more preferably from 500,000 to 5 Million gmol ^-1 and in particular from 1.1 million to 2.2 million gmol ^-1 .

A most preferred polymer constructed as previously shown is commercially available under the name Polyquaternium-74.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. Such products are available, for example under the names Rheocare ^® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® ^® CR (3V Sigma) in trade.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion. Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 and Salcare ^® SC 96 in the trade.

Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula GOB-N + R _a R _b R _c A ^-
G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose;
B is a divalent linking group, for example, alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene;
R _a , R _b and R _c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R _a , R _b and R _{c is} preferably not more than 20 is;
A ^- is a common counteranion and is preferably chloride.

Cationic, ie quaternized celluloses are available on the market with varying degrees of substitution, cationic charge density, nitrogen content and molecular weights. For example, Polyquaternium-67 is commercially available under the designations SL ^® polymer or polymer ^® SK (Amerchol) is. Under the trade designation Mirustyle CP ^® of the company. Croda another most preferred cellulose is available. This is a trimonium and cocodimonium hydroxyethylcellulose as derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72. Polyquaternium-72 can be used pre-dissolved both in solid form and already in aqueous solution.

Other cationic celluloses are, 400 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-10) and polymer Quatrisoft ^® LM-200 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-24) under the names Polymer JR ^®. Other commercial products, the compounds Celquat ^® H 100 and Celquat ^® L are 200. Finally, located under the trade designation Mirustyle CP ^® of the company. Croda with Trimonium and Cocodimonium hydroxyethylcellulose a further derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72 before. Polyquaternium-72 can be used pre-dissolved both in solid form and already in aqueous solution. Particularly preferred cationic celluloses are Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 and Polyquaternium-72.

Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ^® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Also particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives also by the company. Hercules under the name N-Hance ^® commercially. Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. Cognis under the name Cosmedia® ^®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ^® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative. The cationic guar derivatives are preferred according to the invention.

A suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ^®. A preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ^® PC by Amerchol, USA. Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ^® CMF, Hydagen® ^® HCMF and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.

Finally, cationic polymers based on sugars can also be used according to the invention with preference.

Such compounds are, for example, cationic alkyl oligoglucosides as shown in the following figure.

In the formula shown above, the radicals R independently of one another are a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C 6 -C 30 alkenyl radical, preferably the radical R is a radical R selected from: lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, Oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl.

The radicals R 1 independently of one another are a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkenyl radical, preferably the radical R is a radical selected from: butyl, capryl, caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl, lauryl, Myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl. More preferably, the radicals R1 are the same. Even more preferably, the radicals R 1 are selected from technical mixtures of the fatty alcohol cuts of C 6 / C 8 fatty alcohols, C 8 / C 10 fatty alcohols, C 10 / C 12 fatty alcohols, C 12 / C 14 fatty alcohols, C 12 / C 18 fatty alcohols, and most preferred those technical fatty alcohol cuts of plant origin. The cationic alkyl oligoglucosides described above can be prepared, for example, from customary alkyl oligoglucosides. The Alkyloligoglucoside be implemented in this case by conventional methods to quaternary ammonium compounds. The alkyl or alkenyl oligoglycosides may be known nonionic surfactants. These sugar surfactants are known nonionic surfactants according to formula (I), R ¹ O- [G] _p (I) in which R ^{1 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10.

The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of monoglycerides and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 30. While p must always be an integer in the individual molecule and especially the If p = 1 to 20 can be assumed, the value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic variable, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 20.0. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 30, preferably 6 to 24, more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, octanol, nonanol, decanol, undecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and technical mixtures of and with these alcohols.

The quaternization of the alkyl oligoglucosides can be carried out, for example, with quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. The chain length of the alkyl group is preferably 6 to 30, more preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms.

Particularly preferred examples of the cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are the compounds having the INCI names Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-78, Polyquaternium-79, Polyquaternium-80, Polyquaternium-81 and Polyquaternium-82. Most preferred are the cationic alkyl oligoglucosides designated Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-81 and Polyquaternium-82.

Such compounds can be obtained, for example, under the name Poly Suga® Quat from the company Colonial Chemical Inc.

The cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are used in a total amount of from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, and most preferably in amounts from 0.2 to 2.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition. Of course, it is also included in the invention that mixtures of cationic alkyl oligoglucosides can be used. In this case, preference is given to using one long-chain and one short-chain cationic alkyl oligoglucoside at the same time.

Another cationic polymer can be obtained based on ethanolamine. The polymer is commercially available under the name Polyquaternium-71.

This polymer can be obtained, for example, under the name Cola® Moist 300 P from Colonial Chemical Inc.

The polyquaternium-71 is contained in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, and most preferably in Amounts of from 0.2 to 2.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition.

• – kationisierter Honig, beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Honeyquat^® 50,
• – polymere Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze und deren Copolymere mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure. Die unter den Bezeichnungen Merquat^®100 (Poly(dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid)) und Merquat^®550 (Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid-Acrylamid-Copolymer) im Handel erhältlichen Produkte sind Beispiele für solche kationischen Polymere mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-7,
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymere, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Luviquat^® FC 370, FC 550 und der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-16 sowie FC 905 und HM 552 angeboten werden,
• – quaternisiertes Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat, zum Beispiel Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylatmethosulfat Copolymer, das unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Gafquat^® 755 N und Gafquat^® 734 von der Firma Gaf Co., USA vertrieben wird und die INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-11,
• – quaternierter Polyvinylalkohol,
• – sowie die unter den Bezeichnungen Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18 und Polyquaternium-27 bekannten Polymeren mit quartären Stickstoffatomen in der Polymerhauptkette,
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylcaprolactam-Acrylat-Terpolymere, wie sie mit Acrylsäureestern und Acrylsäureamiden als dritter Monomerbaustein im Handel beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Aquaflex^® SF 40 angeboten werden.

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

• - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,
• - Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze polymeric and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) commercially available products are examples of such cationic polymers having the INCI name Polyquaternium-7,
• - vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550 and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 and FC 905 and HM 552,
• - quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl, for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ^® 755 N and Gafquat ^® 734, United States is marketed by Gaf Co. and the INCI name Polyquaternium-11,
• - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,
• And the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18 and Polyquaternium-27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain,
• - Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as those with acrylic acid esters and acrylic acid amides as a third monomer building commercially available, for example, under the name Aquaflex ^® SF 40.

• (i) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (Mono1), R¹-CH=CR²-CO-Z-(C_nH_2n)-N⁽⁺⁾R²R³R⁴ A^(–) (Mono1) in der R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe und R³, R⁴und R⁵ unabhängig voneinander für Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoff-Atomen, Z eine NH-Gruppe oder ein Sauerstoffatom, n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 5 und A^(–) das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist,
• (ii) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (Mono2),
  
  worin R⁶ und R⁷ unabhängig voneinander stehen für eine (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere für eine Methylgruppe und A^– das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist,
• (iii) monomeren Carbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (Mono3), R⁸-CH=CR⁹-COOH (Mono3) in denen R⁸ und R⁹ unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind.

Amphoteric polymers according to the invention are those polymers in which a cationic group is derived from at least one of the following monomers:

• (i) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (Mono 1), R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ² R ³ R ⁴ A ^(-) (Mono 1) in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ are each independently alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5 and A ^{(-) is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,
• (ii) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (mono 2),
  
  wherein R ⁶ and R ⁷ independently of one another represent a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group and A ^{- is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,
• (iii) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (mono 3), R ⁸ -CH = CR ⁹ -COOH (mono 3) in which R ⁸ and R ^{9 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

Particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (i) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{(-) is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion is; Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (i). As the monomer (ii) for the polymers mentioned, acrylic acid is preferably used.

Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (Mono1) or (Mono2) with the monomer (Mono3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (Mono2) and (Mono3). Very particularly preferably used according to the invention amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, among others, with the trade name Merquat ^® 280 (Nalco).

• (iv) monomere Carbonsäureamide der allgemeinen Formel (Mono4),
  
  in denen R¹⁰ und R¹¹ unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind und R¹² für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine (C₁- bis C₈)-Alkylgruppe steht, enthalten.

In addition, the amphoteric polymers according to the invention in addition to a monomer (Mono1) or (Mono2) and a monomer (Mono3) additionally a monomer (Mono4)

• (iv) monomeric carboxylic acid amides of the general formula (mono 4),
  
  in which R ¹⁰ and R ¹¹ independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups and R ^{12 is} a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ - to C ₈ ) -alkyl group.

Amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (Mono4) which are very particularly preferably used according to the invention are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are marketed ^® under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, among others, with the trade name Merquat Plus 3330 (Nalco).

The amphoteric polymers can generally be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.

The abovementioned cationic polymers can be used individually or in any desired combinations with one another, with amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, and very particularly preferably from 0 to 0, 1 to 5.0 wt.% Are included. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.

• – R´ für einen geradkettigen oder verzweigten, gesättigten oder ungesättigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 11 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen steht,
• – R´´ ein Protein, ein Peptid oder ein Hydrolysat aus Keratin bedeutet,
• – X für -N⁺(R^III ₂)R^IV- oder -N(R^III)R^IV- oder -C(O)-N(R^V)R^VI- steht,
• – R^III -(CH₂)_x-CH₃ mit x = 0–22 bedeutet und
• – R^IV -CH₂-CH(OH)-CH₂- oder -(CH₂)_x- mit x = 0–22 bedeutet;
• – R^V und R^VI unabhängig voneinander für -H oder -(CH₂)_x-CH₃ mit x = 0–22 stehen.

As a second essential ingredient b) the agents according to the invention contain at least one proteolipid of the formula (I) R'-XR "(I), in the

• R 'is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 11 to 24 carbon atoms,
• R'' means a protein, a peptide or a hydrolyzate of keratin,
• X is -N ⁺ (R ^III ₂ ) R ^IV - or -N (R ^III ) R ^IV - or -C (O) -N (R ^V ) R ^VI -
• R ^{III is} - (CH ₂ ) _x -CH ₃ where x = 0-22 and
• - R ^{IV is} -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ - or - (CH ₂ ) _x - where x = 0-22;
• - R ^V and R ^VI independently of one another are -H or - (CH ₂ ) _x -CH ₃ with x = 0-22.

Preferably, the cationic Keratinhydrolysate be used within certain amounts in the inventive compositions. Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain - based on their weight - from 0.01 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 5.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-%, further preferably 0.1 to 1.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-% cationic Keratinhydrolysate.

The radical R "in formula (I) represents a peptide or a protein or a protein hydrolyzate, each based on keratin.

The molecular weight of the cationic keratin hydrolyzate contained in the agents according to the invention is from 500 to 10,000 Da, preferably from 750 to 5000 Da, more preferably from 750 to 2000 Da and in particular from 800 to 1500 Da.

It is preferred if the radical R "of the cationic keratin hydrolysates used in the agents according to the invention contains no methionine. It is further preferred if the radical R "of the cationic keratin hydrolysates used in the agents according to the invention contains large amounts of cysteine and / or cystine.

An example of a commercial product according to the invention is Croquat® WKP. Another product according to the invention is available as a commercial product Promois® WK-HCAQ. The most preferred product carries the INCI name Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin.

• – R´ für einen geradkettigen oder verzweigten, gesättigten oder ungesättigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 11 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen steht,
• – R´´ ein Protein, ein Peptid oder ein Hydrolysat aus Keratin bedeutet,
• – X für -C(O)O- oder -N⁺(R^III ₂)R^IV- oder -N(R^III)R^IV- oder -C(O)-N(R^V)R^VI- steht,
• – R^III -(CH₂)_x-CH₃ mit x = 0–22 bedeutet und
• – R^IV -CH₂-CH(OH)-CH₂- oder -(CH₂)_x- mit x = 0–22 bedeutet;
• – R^V und R^V unabhängig voneinander für -H oder -(CH₂)_x-CH₃ mit x = 0–22 stehen.

As a second essential ingredient, the agents according to the invention contain at least one proteolipid of the formula (I) R'-XR "(I), in the

• R 'is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 11 to 24 carbon atoms,
• R'' means a protein, a peptide or a hydrolyzate of keratin,
• X is -C (O) O- or -N ⁺ (R ^III ₂ ) R ^IV - or -N (R ^III ) R ^IV - or -C (O) -N (R ^V ) R ^VI -,
• R ^{III is} - (CH ₂ ) _x -CH ₃ where x = 0-22 and
• - R ^{IV is} -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ - or - (CH ₂ ) _x - where x = 0-22;
• - R ^V and R ^V independently of one another are -H or - (CH ₂ ) _x -CH ₃ with x = 0-22.

Preferably, the cationic Keratinhydrolysate be used within certain amounts in the inventive compositions. Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain - based on their weight - from 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 0.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 0.5 wt .-%, further preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.35 wt .-% cationic Keratinhydrolysate.

The radical R "in formula (I) represents a peptide or a protein or a protein hydrolyzate, each based on keratin.

The molecular weight of the cationic keratin hydrolyzate contained in the agents according to the invention is from 500 to 10,000 Da, preferably from 750 to 5000 Da, more preferably from 750 to 2000 Da and in particular from 800 to 1500 Da.

It is preferred if the radical R "of the cationic keratin hydrolysates used in the agents according to the invention contains no methionine. It is further preferred if the radical R "of the cationic keratin hydrolysates used in the agents according to the invention contains large amounts of cysteine and / or cystine.

An example of a commercial product according to the invention is Croquat® WKP. Another product according to the invention is available as a commercial product Promois® WK-HCAQ. The most preferred product carries the INCI name Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin.

Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

Preferred according to the invention is the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Preferably, irrespective of the choice of the X in formula (I), the R '' residue is selected from keratin or keratin hydrolysates. Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one cationic keratin hydrolyzate of the formula (I) in which R'' is keratin or a keratin hydrolyzate.

Particularly preferred groupings RX- are in the tables of the priority font DE 102009048299.7 listed. Reference is made expressly and in full to the content. The groupings disclosed therein are bound to keratin or keratin hydrolyzate as group R "in still further preferred embodiments of the present invention. Irrespective of the choice of the grouping -X- in formula (I), hair treatment compositions according to the invention which contain at least one cationic keratin hydrolyzate of the formula (I) in which R ^{III is} -CH ₃ and R ^{IV is} - (CH ₂ ) _x - with x = 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 stands. Furthermore, particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one cationic keratin hydrolyzate of the formula (I) in which X is -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ - and R 'is - (CH ₂ ) ₁₇ -CH ₃ . It has proved to be advantageous, in addition to the cationic keratin hydrolyzate (s) used according to the invention, to use protein hydrolysates as the third ingredient. These reinforce the

Effect of cationic keratin hydrolysates and in turn are amplified in their effects. The protein hydrolysates were described in detail above as R '' residue. In summary, preference is given to hair treatment compositions according to the invention which additionally comprise, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 7% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0 , 25 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.0 wt .-% protein hydrolyzate (s), preferably keratin hydrolyzate (s).

Preferably, irrespective of the choice of the X in formula (I), the R '' residue is selected from keratin or keratin hydrolysates. Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one cationic keratin hydrolyzate of the formula (I) in which R'' is keratin or a keratin hydrolyzate.

Particularly preferred groupings RX- are in the tables of the priority font DE 102009048299.7 listed. Reference is made expressly and in full to the content. The groupings disclosed therein are bound to keratin or keratin hydrolyzate as group R "in still further preferred embodiments of the present invention. Irrespective of the choice of the grouping -X- in formula (I), hair treatment compositions according to the invention which contain at least one cationic keratin hydrolyzate of the formula (I) in which R ^{III is} -CH ₃ and R ^{IV is} - (CH ₂ ) _x - with x = 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 stands. Furthermore, particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one cationic keratin hydrolyzate of the formula (I) in which X is -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ - and R 'is - (CH ₂ ) ₁₇ -CH ₃ .

In a second embodiment, it has proven to be advantageous, in addition to the cationic keratin hydrolyzate (s) used according to the invention and the other obligatory ingredients, to use protein hydrolyzates as further care substance. These enhance the action of cationic keratin hydrolysates and, in turn, increase their effects. The protein hydrolysates were described in detail above as R '' residue. In summary, preference is given to hair treatment compositions according to the invention which additionally comprise, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 7% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0 , 25 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.0 wt .-% Protein hydrolyzate (s), preferably keratin hydrolyzate (s) included. A most preferred protein hydrolyzate on the basis of keratin is the commercial product ProSina ^® from. Croda.

According to the invention, the use of AHA acids as ingredient c) in a total amount of from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total composition of the composition, is the preferred additional compelling component. AHA acids are alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids. According to the invention, all isomers of these acids can be used. Alpha-hydroxy acids are well-known in skin care, as they are used for smoothing the skin in addition to the pH adjustment of the cosmetic compositions. The alpha-hydroxy acids include in particular the so-called edible acids. With particular preference, the alpha-hydroxy acids are selected from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, salicylic acid, gluconic acid, azelaic acid and mixtures thereof. With particular preference lactic acid, tartaric acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, gluconic acid, azelaic acid and mixtures thereof are used. Very particular preference is given to using lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, gluconic acid, azelaic acid and mixtures thereof. Since these acids are not only used for pH adjustment, but also provide a valuable contribution to the effect of the compositions of the invention, the alpha-hydroxy acids in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, Preferably from 0 From 2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 4.0% by weight, most preferably from 0.3 to 3.5% by weight, and most preferably from 0.3 to 3.0% by weight .% used.

As already mentioned, the composition of the invention is not only excellent temperature and viscosity stable, but also alcohol tolerant. Preferred compositions according to the invention therefore contain alcohol (s) as further ingredient. Such compositions are formulated, for example, as hair gels or leave-on formulation. The invention also includes that the compositions according to the invention are formulated as aerosols. In this case, the composition of the invention in an aerosol can with a corresponding valve and a corresponding outlet opening together with a propellant gas selected from the low-boiling hydrocarbons, propane, iso.Propyn, butane, iso-butane, pentane, iso-pentane, neopentane, hexane , Dimethyl ether or mixtures thereof, preferably in a ratio of 90:10, particularly preferably 92: 8 and most preferably 95: 5 (composition: propellant gas) bottled.

The compositions according to the invention are preferably formulated as hair gels and are particularly suitable in this embodiment for "leave-on" application, i. the agent is left on the hair after use until the next hair wash. Preferred agents of this embodiment contain from 1.0 to 50% by weight of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group of ethanol, n-propanol, isoporopanol, n-butanol. Among these, ethanol and / or isopropanol are particularly preferred. Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain - based on their total weight - 1.0 to 50 wt .-%, preferably 2.0 to 40 wt .-%, more preferably 2.5 to 35 wt .-%, still more preferably 5 to 30 wt .-%, still more preferably 7.5 to 25 wt .-% and in particular 10 to 20 wt .-% ethanol and / or isopropanol and / or mixtures thereof.

• – Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylester-Copolymere, wie sie beispielsweise unter dem Warenzeichen Luviskol^® (BASF) vertrieben werden. Luviskol^® VA 64 und Luviskol^® VA 73, jeweils Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere, sind ebenfalls bevorzugte nichtionische Polymere.
• – Celluloseether, wie Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose und Methylhydroxypropylcellulose, wie sie beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Culminal^® und Benecel^® (AQUALON) und Natrosol^®-Typen (Hercules) vertrieben werden.
• – Stärke und deren Derivate, insbesondere Stärkeether, beispielsweise Structure^® XL (National Starch), eine multifunktionelle, salztolerante Stärke;
• – Schellack
• – Polyvinylpyrrolidone, wie sie beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Luviskol^® (BASF) vertrieben werden.

In a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention can contain nonionogenic polymers. Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

• - Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.
• - cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, as for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ^® grades (Hercules) are distributed.
• - starch and its derivatives, in particular starch, such as Structure XL ^® (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch;
• - shellac
• - polyvinylpyrrolidones, as for example under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).

Among these nonionic polymers, the cellulose ethers and the starch derivatives are most preferred. In the compositions according to the invention, they contribute to the stabilization and the targeted adjustment of viscosity, yield point and the long-term stability of the compositions. In particular, compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they have high flow limits at medium viscosities. The viscosities of the compositions according to the invention are 4000 to 100,000 mPas, measured with the Haake Rheometer at 25 ° C. Preferably the viscosity is 4000 to 50,000 mPas, more preferably 5000 to 60,000 mPas, even more preferably 6000 to 45,000 mPas, especially preferably from 8,000 to 30,000 mPas and most preferably from 10,000 to 25,000 mPas, measured in each case according to Haake at 25 ° C.

The nonionic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred and most preferred are amounts of 0.1 to 3.0 wt.%, Each based on the weight of the total composition.

The compositions of the invention are also able to keep solids sedimentation stable in the balance. In this way, for example, clear products in which colored pigment particles can be incorporated, which float in the product realize. Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention therefore contain at least one pigment.

The hair treatment compositions according to the invention may preferably contain inorganic pigments as insoluble pigments. Preference is given to pigments having a particle size distribution in the range from about 2 μm to 150 μm, preferably from 10 μm to 125 μm and from 10 μm to 60 μm. The inorganic pigments may be, for example, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, silicon dioxide or, for example, silicates, for example mica, which may be coated, for example with titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide or silicon dioxide. Suitable examples are the pigments available from Merck under the trade name Timiron® ^®, especially Timiron ^® Super Gold and Timiron ^® Sun Gold Sparkle MP-29th The pigments are preferably contained in an amount of 0.01-0.2 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05-0.1 wt .-%.

The compositions according to the invention are preferably surfactant-containing and preferably contain a total amount of at least 1 to 8% by weight of surfactant (s). However, in the compositions according to the invention are preferably very poor or free of anionic surfactants, so that their share of the total surfactant content is preferably low. In the event that the compositions according to the invention contain anionic surfactant (s), agents according to the invention are preferred in which the proportion of anionic surfactant (s) relative to the total amount of surfactants is in particular less than 1%, most preferably less than 0.5%. is and at most by admixtures in other raw materials in the compositions of the invention.

With particular preference the agents according to the invention contain amphoteric surfactant (s). Ampholytic surfactants and emulsifiers are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salts , Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine.

Preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 0.1 to 8.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 6% by weight, even more preferably 1.0 to 6.0% by weight and especially 3.0 to 6.0% by weight of amphoteric surfactant (s).

• – N-Alkylglycine,
• – N-Alkylpropionsäuren,
• – N-Alkylaminobuttersäuren,
• – N-Alkyliminodipropionsäuren,
• – N-Hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine,
• – N-Alkyltaurine,
• – N-Alkylsarcosine,
• – 2-Alkylaminopropionsäuren mit jeweils etwa 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – Alkylaminoessigsäuren mit jeweils etwa 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – N-Kokosalkylaminopropionat,
• – Kokosacylaminoethylaminopropionat
• – C₁₂-C₁₈-Acylsarcosin,
• – N-Alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium-glycinate, beispielsweise Kokosalkyl-dimethylammoniumglycinat,
• – N-Acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, beispielsweise Kokosacylaminopropyl-dimethylammoniumglycinat,
• – 2-Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline mit jeweils 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkyl- oder Acylgruppe
• – Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat
• – der unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Cocamidopropyl Betain bekannten Verbindungen,
• – der unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate bekannten Verbindungen

enthalten. Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain amphoteric surfactant (s) from the groups of

• - N-alkylglycines,
• N-alkylpropionic acids,
• N-alkylaminobutyric acids,
• N-alkyliminodipropionic acids,
• N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines,
• N-alkyl taurines,
• N-alkyl sarcosines,
• 2-alkylaminopropionic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group,
• Alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group,
• N-cocoalkylaminopropionate,
• - cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate
• C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acyl sarcosine,
• N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate,
• N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate,
• - 2-Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group
• Cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate
• The compounds known by the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine,
• - The known under the INCI name Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate compounds

contain.

in der R für einen geradkettigen oder verzweigten, gesättigten oder ein- bzw. mehrfach ungesättigten Alkyl- oder Alkenlyrest mit 8 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen steht. Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions contain as amphoteric surfactants betaines of the formula (Bet-I)

in which R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms.

These surfactants are referred to the INCI nomenclature as Amidopropylbetaine, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as Cocoamidopropylbetaine. According to the invention, particular preference is given to using surfactants of the formula (Bet-I) which are a mixture of the following representatives:
H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₃ N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ CH ₂ COO ^-
H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₉ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₃ N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ CH ₂ COO ^-
H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₁ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₃ N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ CH ₂ COO ^-
H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₃ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₃ N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ CH ₂ COO ^-
H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₅ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₃ N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ CH ₂ COO ^-
H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -CH = CH- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₃ N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ CH ₂ COO ^-

Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain the surfactants of the formula (Bet-I) in amounts of from 0.1 to 8.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 6 wt .-%, even more preferably 1.0 to 6.0 wt .-% and in particular 3.0 to 6.0 wt .-% amphoteric surfactant (s) included.

enthalten, in der R für einen geradkettigen oder verzweigten, gesättigten oder ein- bzw. mehrfach ungesättigten Alkyl- oder Alkenlyrest mit 8 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen steht. In addition to the amphoteric surfactant (s) of the formula (Bet-I) or in its place, the hair-treatment compositions of the invention may be used with particular preference as amphoteric surfactants betaines of the formula (Bet-II)

in which R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms.

These surfactants are referred to according to the INCI nomenclature as amphoacetates, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as cocoamphoactetates.

in der R für einen geradkettigen oder verzweigten, gesättigten oder ein- bzw. mehrfach ungesättigten Alkyl- oder Alkenlyrest mit 8 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen und M für ein Kation steht. For manufacturing reasons, surfactants of this type also always contain betaines of the formula (Bet-IIa)

in which R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and M is a cation.

These surfactants are referred to according to the INCI nomenclature as Amphodiacetate, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as Cocoamphodiactetate.

According to the invention, particular preference is given to using surfactants of the formula (Bet-II) which are a mixture of the following representatives:
H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^-
H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₉ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^-
H ₃ C- (CH _{2) 11} -C (O) -NH- (CH _{2) 2} NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^-
H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₃ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^-
H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₅ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^-
H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -CH = CH- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^-

Preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain the surfactants of the formula (Bet-II) in amounts of from 0.1 to 8.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 6 wt .-%, even more preferably 1.0 to 6.0 wt .-% and in particular 3.0 to 6.0 wt .-% amphoteric surfactant (s) included.

• – H₃C-(CH₂)₇-
• – H₃C-(CH₂)₉-
• – H₃C-(CH₂)₁₁-
• – H₃C-(CH₂)₁₃-
• – H₃C-(CH₂)₁₅-
• – H₃C-(CH₂)₇-CH=CH-(CH₂)₇-

oder Mischungen aus diesen. In summary, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred in which the radical R in the formulas (Bet-I) and (Bet-II) is selected from

• H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -
• H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₉ -
• - H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₁ -
• H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₃ -
• - H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₅ -
• H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -CH = CH- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -

or mixtures of these.

Highly preferred compositions comprise, as amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant and / or surfactant having betaine structure, the surfactant designated as Coco Betaine according to INCI nomenclature in amounts of from 0.1 to 8.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 8% by weight. -%, more preferably 0.5 to 6 wt .-%, even more preferably 1.0 to 6.0 wt .-% and in particular 3.0 to 6.0 wt .-% in relation to the total composition.

In addition to or in place of the amphoteric surfactants, the compositions of the invention may also contain nonionic surfactants.

Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides. Alkylpolyglycosides (APG) are nonionic surfactants made entirely from renewable resources (sugar building blocks, predominantly glucose, for example from corn starch and fatty alcohol, for example from coconut oil). Alkyl polyglycosides are accessible by acid-catalyzed reaction (Fischer reaction) of sugars, especially glucose (or starch) or butyl glycosides with fatty alcohols.

Complex mixtures of alkyl monoglucoside (alkyl-α-D- and -β-D-glucopyranoside and small amounts of glucofuranoside), alkyldiglucosides (-isomaltosides, maltosides etc.) and Alkyl oligoglucosides (maltotriosides, tetraosides etc.). The average degree of polymerization of commercial products whose alkyl radicals are in the range C8-C16 is 1.2-1.5.

• – im wesentlichen aus C₈- und C₁₀-Alkylgruppen,
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- und C₁₄-Alkylgruppen,
• – im wesentlichen aus C₈- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen oder
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen oder
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₆ bis C₁₈-Alkylgruppen

besteht. According to the invention, preference is given to using alkylpolyglycosides corresponding to the general formula RO - (Z) _x , where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units. Particular preference is given to those alkylpolyglycosides in which R

• Consisting essentially of C ₈ and C ₁₀ -alkyl groups,
• Essentially of C ₁₂ and C ₁₄ alkyl groups,
• - Essentially from C ₈ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or
• - Essentially from C ₁₂ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or
• - Substituted from C ₁₆ to C ₁₈ alkyl groups

consists.

As sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose. Accordingly, preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 8.0 wt .-% and in particular 2 to 6 wt .-% Alkylpolyglycosid (s) of formula H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) _n -O- (Z) _x in which n is from 5 to 21, preferably from 7 to 19, particularly preferably from 9 to 17 and in particular from 11 to 13, and k is from 1.1 to 1.8, preferably from 1.2 to 1 , 5, and Z represents a sugar unit from the group glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose.

enthalten, in der n für Werte von 5 bis 21, vorzugsweise von 7 bis 19, besonders bevorzugt von 9 bis 17 und insbesondere von 11 bis 13 und m für Werte von 1,1 bis 1,8, vorzugsweise von 1,2 bis 1,5 stehen. Glucose is a particularly preferred sugar building block (Z), so that preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 8.0% by weight and in particular 2 to 6 wt .-% Alkylpolyglucosid (e) of the formula

in which n represents values of from 5 to 21, preferably from 7 to 19, more preferably from 9 to 17 and in particular from 11 to 13 and m for values from 1.1 to 1.8, preferably from 1.2 to 1 , 5 stand.

The alkylpolyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1.1 to 1.8.

enthalten, in der n für den Wert 11 m für Werte von 1,1 bis 1,8, vorzugsweise von 1,2 bis 1,5 stehen. Very particularly preferred alkyl polyglucosides are those whose alkyl radical is a lauryl radical. For mixtures of substances from natural sources, preference is given to those sources which have a high proportion of C 12 fatty acids, in particular coconut fatty acids. Accordingly, particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 8% by weight and in particular from 2 to 6% by weight of alkylpolyglucoside (e) of the formula

in which n is 11 m for values of 1.1 to 1.8, preferably 1.2 to 1.5.

Furthermore, the agents according to the invention preferably contain at least one silicone polymer selected from the group of dimethiconols and / or the group of amino-functional silicones and / or the group of dimethicones and / or the group of cyclomethicones. For each of these groups, however, arylated silicones of the respective groups of silicones are not included in the compositions of the invention.

The dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (Si1): (SiR ¹ ₃ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiR ¹ ₃ ) (Si ¹ )

Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (Si1.1):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² independently of one another each represent hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C2 to C30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps. Most preferred are viscosities around the range of about 60,000 cps. As an example, reference is made to the product "Dow Corning 200 with 60000 cSt".

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si1.2) (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] _x -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (Si 1.2), in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.

The dimethicones (Si1) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5 wt.% Based on the total composition. Finally, among the silicone compounds Dimethiconole (Si8) understood. The dimethiconols according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (Si8-I): (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) (Si 8 -I)

Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (Si8-II):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethiconols are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Coming 2-9026 Fluid, Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), Dow Coming 1401 Fluid, Dow Coming 1403 Fluid Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend, SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all four aforementioned GE Silicones), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all Wacker-Chemie GmbH mentioned above). The dimethiconols (Si8) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of dimethiconol based on the composition. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones. Such silicones may be represented, for example, by the formula (Si-2) M (R _a Q _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2} ) _x (R _c SiO _{(4-c) / 2} ) _y M (Si-2)

Be described, taking in the above formula
R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to about 6 carbon atoms,
Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R ¹ HZ, in which
R ^{1 is} a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and
Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group;
a assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2,
b takes values in the range of about 1 to about 3,
a + b is less than or equal to 3, and
c is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, and
x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and
y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and
M is a suitable silicone end group, as is known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy.

Z is according to formula (Si-2) an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for said Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _z NH ₂ , where z is an integer greater than or equal to 1. Another possible formula for said Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NH, wherein both z and zz independently of one another are an integer greater than or equal to 1, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Said Z is most preferably an -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for said Z is -N (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0. Q according to formula (Si-2) is most preferably a polar amino-functional radical of formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ .

In the formula (Si-2), α assumes values in the range of 0 to 2, b takes values in the range of 2 to 3, a + b is less than or equal to 3, and c is a number in the range of 1 to 3. Suitable for the purposes of the invention are cationic silicone oils such as, for example, the commercially available products Dow Corning (DC) 929 emulsion, DC 2-2078, DC 5-7113, SM-2059 (General Electric) and SLM-55067 (Wacker).

enthalten, worin m und n Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei n vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt. Diese Silikone werden nach der INCI-Deklaration als Trimethylsilylamodimethicone bezeichnet und sind beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Q2-7224 (Hersteller: Dow Corning; ein stabilisiertes Trimethylsilylamodimethicon) erhältlich. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si 3-a)

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes. These silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration and are available, for example, under the name Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone).

enthalten, worin
R für -OH, eine (gegebenenfalls ethoxylierte und/oder propoxylierte) (C₁ bis C₂₀)-Alkoxygruppe oder eine -CH₃-Gruppe steht,
R’ für -OH, eine (C₁ bis C₂₀)-Alkoxygruppe oder eine -CH₃-Gruppe und
m, n1 und n2 Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n1 + n2) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei die Summe (n1 + n2) vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt. Particular preference is also given to compositions according to the invention which contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3b)

contain, in which
R is -OH, an (optionally ethoxylated and / or propoxylated) (C ₁ to C ₂₀ ) alkoxy group or a -CH ₃ group,
R 'is -OH, a (C ₁ to C ₂₀ ) alkoxy group or a -CH ₃ group and
m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1 + n2) preferably having values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values of from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These silicones are according to the INCI declaration as Amodimethicone, or as functionalized Amodimethicone, such as bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (for example, as a commercial product: DC 8500 from Dow Corning available), trideceth-9 PG-amodimethicones (for example as a commercial product Silcare Silicone SEA available from Clariant).

Suitable diquaternary silicones are selected from compounds of the general formula (Si3c) [R ¹ R ² R ³ N ⁺ -A-SiR ⁷ R ⁸ - (O-SiR ⁹ R ¹⁰⁾ _n -O-SiR ¹¹ R ¹² -AN ⁺ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ^6] 2X ^- (Si3c) where R 1 to R 6 independently of one another are C 1 to C 22 -alkyl radicals which may contain hydroxyl groups and where preferably at least one of the radicals has at least 8 C atoms and the remaining radicals have 1 to 4 C atoms,
R7 to R12 independently of one another are identical or different and denote C1 to C10-alkyl, A represents a divalent organic compound group,
n is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 10 to 120, more preferably from 10 to 40, and X ^{- is} an anion.

The divalent linking group is preferably a C1 to C12 alkylene or alkoxyalkylene group which may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Particularly preferred is the group - (CH ₂ ) ₃ -O-CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ -.

The anion X ^- can be a halide ion, an acetate, an organic carboxylate or a compound of the general formula RSO ₃ ^- , in which R has the meaning of C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl radicals.

A preferred diquaternary silicone has the general formula (Si3d) [RN ⁺ Me ₂ -A- (SiMe ₂ O) _n -SiMe ₂ -AN ⁺ Me ₂ R] 2 CH ₃ COO ^- (Si 3d), where A is the group - (CH ₂ ) ₃ -O-CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ -,
R is an alkyl radical having at least 8 C atoms and n is a number from 10 to 120.

Suitable silicone polymers having two terminal quaternary ammonium groups are known under the INCI name Quaternium-80. These are dimethylsiloxanes with two terminal trialkylammonium groups. Such diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes are marketed by Evonik under the trade names Abil ^® Quat 3270, 3272 and 3474th Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0, 2 to 5 wt.% Amino-functional silicone (s) and / or diquaternary silicone included.

Another amino-functional silicone of the present invention are polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds. The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds can be obtained, for example, under the trade name Baysilone® from GE Bayer Silicones. The products named Baysilone TP 3911, SME 253 and SFE 839 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to the use of Baysilone TP 3911 as the active component of the compositions according to the invention. The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds are present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0 , 05 to 2.5 wt.% Each used in relation to the total composition.

The EP 1887024 A1 describes novel cationic amino-functional silicones which in particular improve the gloss in agents for the care of surfaces, for example human hair. These cationic silicone polymers are characterized in that they have a silicone backbone and at least one polyether part and furthermore at least one part with an ammonium structure. Examples of the preferred cationic silicone polymers in the context of the present invention are, in addition to the compounds of the aforementioned EP 1887024 A1 further includes, in particular, the compounds having the INCI names: Silicone Quaternium-1, Silicone Quaternium-2, Silicone Quaternium-3, Silicone Quaternium-4, Silicone Quaternium-5, Silicone Quaternium-6, Silicone Quaternium-7, Silicone Quaternium-8 Silicone Quaternium-9, Silicone Quaternium-10, Silicone Quaternium-11, Silicone Quaternium-12, Silicone Quaternium-15, Silicone Quaternium-16, Silicone Quaternium-17, Silicone Quaternium-18, Silicone Quaternium-20, Silicone Quaternium-21 , Silicone Quaternium-22 as well as Silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate and Silicone Quaternium-16 / Glycidyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer. Most preferred is Silicone Quaternium-22. This raw material is sold, for example, by the company Evonik under the trade name Abil ^® Quat T-60th

The cationic amino-functional silicone polymers are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight. contain. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.

enthalten, in der x für eine Zahl von 3 bis 200, vorzugsweise von 3 bis 10, weiter bevorzugt von 3 bis 7 und insbesondere 3, 4, 5 oder 6, steht. The cyclic dimethicones designated as cyclomethicones according to INCI are also preferably used according to the invention. Here, cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-4)

in which x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 3 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6 stands.

Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-5) R ₃ Si [O-SiR ₂ ] _x - (CH ₂ ) _n - [O-SiR ₂ ] _y -O-SiR ₃ (Si-5), in which R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, the C _1-20 -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , x and y are each a number of 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and especially 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and especially for 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 stands.

As further silicones in addition to the dimethicones, dimethiconols, amodimethicones and / or cyclomethicones according to the invention, water-soluble silicones may be present in the compositions according to the invention.

Corresponding hydrophilic silicones are selected, for example, from the compounds of the formulas (Si-6) and / or (Si-7). Particularly preferred water-soluble silicone-based surfactants are selected from the group of dimethicone copolyols which are preferably alkoxylated, in particular polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated.

worin der Rest R steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Alkylgruppe mit 1 bis 12 C-Atomen, eine Alkoxygruppe mit 1 bis 12 C-Atomen oder eine Hydroxylgruppe, die Reste R‘ und R‘‘ bedeuten Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 12 C-Atomen, x steht für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 100, bevorzugt von 20 bis 30, y steht für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 20, bevorzugt von 2 bis 10 und a und b stehen für ganze Zahlen von 0 bis 50, bevorzugt von 10 bis 30. Dimethicone copolyols are understood according to the invention as meaning preferably polyoxyalkylene-modified dimethylpolysiloxanes of the general formulas (Si-6) or (Si-7):

in which the radical R is a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 12 C atoms, an alkoxy group having 1 to 12 C atoms or a hydroxyl group, the radicals R 'and R "are alkyl groups having 1 to 12 C atoms, x is an integer from 1 to 100, preferably from 20 to 30, y is an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, and a and b are integers from 0 to 50, preferably from 10 to 30th

Particularly preferred dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are, for example, the products sold commercially under the trade names SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation) and DOW CORNING. Particularly preferred dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are Dow Corning 190 and Dow Corning 193.

R1 steht hierbei für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten, cyclischen gesättigten cyclischen ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, AO steht für Ethylenoxid, Propylenoxid oder Butylenoxid,
X steht für eine Zahl zwischen 1 und 200, vorzugsweise 1 und 100, besonders bevorzugt zwischen 1 und 50, ganz besonders bevorzugt zwischen 1 und 20, höchst bevorzugt zwischen 1 und 10 und am bevorzugtesten zwischen 1 und 5,
R2 steht für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten, cyclischen gesättigten cyclischen ungesättigten Alkyl-, Alkenyl-, Alkinyl-, Phenyl- oder Benzylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen. Beispiele für eingesetzte Fettsäurenanteile als Rest R1 in den Estern sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Beispiele für die Fettalkoholanteile als Rest R2 in den Esterölen sind Benzylalkohol, Isopropylalkohol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, 2-Ethylhexylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Isotridecylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Linolylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol, Elaeostearylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol und Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen. Ein erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugtes Esteröl ist beispielsweise unter der INCI-Bezeichnung PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate erhältlich. Weiterhin sind unter Esterölen zu verstehen:

• – Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat, sowie
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, beispielsweise Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC),
• – Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin,
• – Fettsäurepartialglyceride, das sind Monoglyceride, Diglyceride und deren technische Gemische. Typische Beispiele sind Mono- und/oder Diglyceride auf Basis von Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Vorzugsweise werden Ölsäuremonoglyceride eingesetzt.

The dimethicone copolyols are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight. % of dimethicone copolyol based on the composition. Another nourishing ingredient which may be used with particular preference is an ester oil. Ester oils are preferred over the silicone oils in the preferred compositions of this invention. The ester oils are defined as follows:
Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ -fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures. Examples of fatty alcohol moieties in the ester oils are Isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ^® V). Of course, the ester oils may also be alkoxylated with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. The alkoxylation can be found both on the fatty alcohol part and on the fatty acid part and on both parts of the ester oils. However, preference is given according to the invention if the fatty alcohol was first alkoxylated and then esterified with fatty acid. In the formula (D4-II), these compounds are generally shown.

R 1 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, AO is ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or butylene oxide,
X is a number between 1 and 200, preferably 1 and 100, more preferably between 1 and 50, most preferably between 1 and 20, most preferably between 1 and 10 and most preferably between 1 and 5,
R 2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, phenyl or benzyl radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples of fatty acid moieties used as radical R1 in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid , Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Examples of the fatty alcohol moieties R2 in the ester oils are benzyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol , Arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. A particularly preferred ester oil according to the invention is obtainable, for example, under the INCI name PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate. Furthermore, ester oils are to be understood as meaning:

• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, and the like
• - symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),
• Triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,
• - fatty acid partial glycerides, ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, Gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

The ester oils are present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, most preferably from 0, 1 to 5.0 wt.% Used. Of course, it is also possible according to the invention to use several ester oils at the same time.

• – pflanzliche Öle. Beispiele für solche Öle sind Arganöl, Aprikosenkernöl, Marulaöl, Macadamiaöl, Sesamöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Olivenöl, Sojaöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Jojobaöl, Orangenöl, Kapkastanienöl, Weizenkeimöl, Pfirsichkernöl und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöls. Geeignet sind aber auch andere Triglyceridöle wie die flüssigen Anteile des Rindertalgs sowie synthetische Triglyceridöle wie Coco caprylate,
• – flüssige Paraffinöle, Isoparaffinöle und synthetische Kohlenwasserstoffe sowie Di-n-alkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether, Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tert-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether. Die als Handelsprodukte erhältlichen Verbindungen 1,3-Di-(2-ethyl-hexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol^® S) und Di-n-octylether (Cetiol^® OE) können bevorzugt sein.

Further oil bodies according to the invention are:

• - vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are argan oil, apricot kernel oil, marula oil, macadamia oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, cape pine oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow and synthetic triglyceride oils such as coco caprylate,
• Liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n- nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1,3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.

As natural oils, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, marula oil , Evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil or wild rose oil.

Amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, marula oil, macadamia oil, almond oil, in particular sweet almond oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, orange oil, cape pine oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil, isopropyl myristates, dicaprylyl carbonates and / or coco-caprylates and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred. These particularly preferred ester oils are present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, most preferably from 0.1 to 5.0 wt.% Used. Of course, it is also possible according to the invention to use several ester oils at the same time.

Of course, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention also contain, in addition to the combination of active substances according to the invention, further constituents customary in cosmetic compositions. The selection of these ingredients generally depends on the intended use of the hair treatment compositions. In the case of hair conditioners, if necessary, further care substances will be included.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Pro pylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Polyole mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere an Glycerin,
• – Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester, Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettsäureglucamide,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,
• – Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen zum Beispiel das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov^®68,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Partialester von Polyolen mit 3–6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen,
• – Sterine, sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine, Cholesterin, Lanosterin) wie aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterine, Ergosterin, Stigmasterin, Sitosterin) oder aus Pilzen und Hefen (Mykosterine),
• – Phospholipide (Lecithine, Phopshatidylcholine),
• – Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen, wie Sorbit,
• – Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate wie beispielsweise Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls^® PGPH).

Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

• - Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles per propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group .
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,
• Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
• Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68, -
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms,
• - sterols, both from animal tissue (zoosterols, cholesterol, lanosterol) and from plant fats (phytosterols, ergosterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol) or from fungi and yeasts (mycosterols),
• - phospholipids (lecithins, phopshatidylcholines),
• Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,
• - Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH).

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.

With particular preference the compositions according to the invention contain fatty substances (fat) as further active ingredient. Fat substances (fat) are understood to mean fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.

As fatty acids (Fatac) can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6-30 carbon atoms. Preferred are fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

The amount used is 0.1-15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. The amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being particularly advantageous.

As fatty alcohols (fatal) it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ - and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® such as Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® such as Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, for example, Lorol ^® C8, Lorol C14 ^®, Lorol C18 ^{®, ®} Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^® such as Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^®, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1-30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1-20% by weight.

As natural or synthetic waxes (Fatwax), solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP can be used according to the invention. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The amount used is 0.1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.1-15 wt.% Based on the total agent.

Another preferred group of ingredients of the compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred, which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include:
Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)
Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)
Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.

Pantothenic acid is preferably used as a derivative in the form of the more stable calcium salts and sodium salts (Ca-pantothenate, Na-pantothenate) in the present invention. Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

The stated compounds of the vitamin B type, in particular vitamin B ₃ , B ₅ and B ₆ , are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid. Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] -imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile become established. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

The compositions according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.

A particularly preferred group of ingredients in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are the following betaines: carnitine, carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetyl carnitine, betalain, 1,1-dimethyl-proline, choline, choline chloride, choline bitartrate, choline dihydrogen citrate and those described in the literature Betaine designated compound N, N, N-trimethylglycine.

Carnitine, histidine, choline and betaine are preferably used. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the active ingredient used is L-carnitine tartrate.

In a further embodiment preferred according to the invention, the compositions according to the invention contain biochinones. In the agents according to the invention, suitable biochinones are understood as meaning one or more ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s). The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:

Coenzyme Q-10 is most preferred.

Preferred compositions of the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower ranges. Here are inventively preferred cosmetic agents characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s) contain. Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine, adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine or theophylline. In hair cosmetic preparations, caffeine is most preferred.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic agent contains ectoine ((S) -2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid.) According to the invention, particular preference is given to agents which, based on their weight, are 0 , 00001 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5.0 wt .-% and in particular 0.001 to 3 wt .-% of the active ingredients from the group formed by carnitine, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine A particularly preferred care additive in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention is taurine.Taurine is exclusively 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid and a derivative is understood to mean the explicitly mentioned derivatives of taurine. Derivatives of taurine include N-monomethyltaurine, N, N-dimethyltaurine, tauryllysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithithate, lysyltaurine and ornithyl taurine.

Particularly preferred are agents according to the invention, which - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 5.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2.0 wt .-% and In particular, 0.001 to 1.0 wt .-% taurine and / or a derivative of taurine included. As a conditioner, the compositions of the invention may also contain flavonoids. The flavonoids are a group of water-soluble plant dyes and play an important role in the metabolism of many plants. They belong together with the phenolic acids to the polyphenols. There are well over 6500 different flavonoids known, which can be divided into flavonols, flavones, flavanones, isoflavonoids and anthocyanins.

According to the invention flavonoids from all six groups can be used, with certain representatives from the individual groups are preferred as a care substance because of their particularly intense action. Preferred flavonols are quercetin, rutin, kaempferol, myricetin, isorhamnetin, preferred flavanols are catechin, gallocatechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, theaflavin, thearubigin, preferred flavones are luteolin, apigenin, morin, preferred flavanones are hesperetin, naringenin, eriodictyol, preferred isoflavonoids are genistein , Daidzein, and preferred anthocyanidins (anthocyanins) are cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, pelargonidin, peonidin, petunidin.

According to the invention particularly preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of flavonoids, in particular flavonols, more preferably 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone (quercetin) and / or 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone -3-O-rutinoside (rutin), included.

enthalten. Preference is also the use of bisabolol and / or bisabololoxides as a care substance in the inventive compositions. Here, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1.5 wt % Bisabolol and / or oxides of bisabolol, preferably (-) - alpha-bisabolol

contain.

Creatine is also suitable as a care substance according to the invention. Creatine (3-methylguanidinoacetic acid) is an organic acid found in vertebrates and the like. a. contributes to supplying the muscles with energy. Creatine is synthesized in the kidney, liver and pancreas. It is formally derived from the amino acids glycine and arginine and is 95% present in skeletal muscle. Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% N-methylguanidino-acetic acid (creatine).

The compositions according to the invention may contain, in addition to the ingredients mentioned above and optional further ingredients, other substances which prevent, alleviate or cure hair loss. In particular, a content of hair root stabilizing agents is advantageous. These substances are described below:

Propecia (Finasteride) is currently the only preparation that is approved worldwide and has been proven in many studies to be effective and tolerable. Propecia causes less DHT to form from testosterone.

Minoxidil is probably the oldest proven hair restorer with or without supplemental additives. For the treatment of hair loss, it may only be used for external application. There are hair lotions containing 2% -5% minoxidil, as well as gels with up to 15% minoxidil. The effectiveness increases with the dosage, in hair waters Minoxidil is only up to 5% share soluble. In many countries, hair tonic with up to 2% minoxidil content is available without prescription.

To combat the hormonal influences on the hair follicles spironolactone in the form of hair tonic and in combination with minoxidil can be used for external application. Spironolactone acts as an androgen receptor blocker, ie. the binding of DHT to the hair follicles is prevented.

In summary, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of hair root stabilizing substances, in particular minoxidil and / or finasteride and / or ketoconazole.

In addition to the care substances, the agents according to the invention may contain further care substances. Their presence is not absolutely necessary for achieving the effects according to the invention, but further effects, such as a pleasant touch or a pleasant application feel, can result from the use of these care substances.

As a further ingredient, the agents according to the invention may with particular preference contain one or more amino acids. Amino acids which can be used particularly preferably according to the invention are selected from the group glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-carnitine, L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine-sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-trans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline ( L-pyroglutamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, whereby both the individual amino acids and mixtures can be used.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 1.5 Wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably from the group of glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.

• – Monosachhariden, insbesondere
• – D-Ribose und/oder
• – D-Xylose und/oder
• – L-Arabinose und/oder
• – D-Glucose und/oder
• – D-Mannose und/oder
• – D-Galactose und/oder
• – D-Fructose und/oder
• – Sorbose und/oder
• – L-Fucose und/oder
• – L-Rhamnose
• – Disacchariden, insbesondere
• – Saccharose und/oder
• – Maltose und/oder
• – Lactose und/oder
• – Trehalose und/oder
• – Cellobiose und/oder
• – Gentiobiose und/oder
• – Isomaltose.

As a further component, the agents according to the invention may contain at least one carbohydrate from the group of monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides. Here are preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention characterized in that they are used as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 4.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 4 wt. -%, more preferably 0.5 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.75 to 2.5 wt .-% carbohydrate (s) selected from monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides containing preferred carbohydrates are selected out

• - Monosaccharides, in particular
• D-ribose and / or
• - D-xylose and / or
• - L-arabinose and / or
• D-glucose and / or
• - D-mannose and / or
• D-galactose and / or
• - D-fructose and / or
• - sorbose and / or
• - L-fucose and / or
• - L-rhamnose
• - Disaccharides, in particular
• - sucrose and / or
• - maltose and / or
• - lactose and / or
• - Trehalose and / or
• Cellobiose and / or
• - Gentiobiose and / or
• - Isomaltose.

Amino acids which can be used particularly preferably according to the invention are selected from the group glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-carnitine, L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine-sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-trans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline ( L-pyroglutamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, whereby both the individual amino acids and mixtures can be used.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, according to the invention, preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that they additionally contain from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.15 to 1% by weight and in particular from 0 , 2 to 0.5 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably (one) amino acid (s) from the group glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.

The effect of the compositions according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives. Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the inventive compositions are 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt.%.

By using plant extracts as care substances, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can be formulated in a particularly natural and yet very effective way in their care performance. Optionally, even otherwise customary preservatives can be dispensed with. The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa, ginger root and ayurvedic Plant extracts such as Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo nucifera (Kamala), sweet grasses such as wheat, barley, rye, oats, spelled, corn, the various varieties of millet (millet, crab, millet as examples), cane, ryegrass, wi foxtail, oat grass, ostrich grass, meadow fescue, whistling grass, bamboo, cotton grass, lamprey grass, Andropogonodeae (Imperata Cylindrica also called grass or cogon grass), buffalo grass, mud grass, canine grasses, love grasses, cymbopogon (lemongrass), oryzeae (rice), zizania (wild rice) , Seagrass, perennial grasses, honey grasses, quaking grasses, bluegrasses, couch grass and Echinacea, especially Echinacea purpurea (L.) Moench, all types of wine and Perikarp preferred by Litchie chinensis. The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2-80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

Occasionally it may be necessary to use anionic polymers. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for all or some of the sulfonic acid group to be present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfon acid, which is available for example under the name Rheothik ^® 11-80 is commercially.

Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC.

Preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also preferred polymers. A 1.9-decadienes crosslinked maleic acid-methyl copolymer available under the name Stabileze® ^® QM. The anionic polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

In addition, it may prove to be advantageous if the compositions according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents. These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and especially 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1 , 6-hexanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,4-butanediol. In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention should additionally contain at least one UV light protection filter. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.

• – 3-Benzylidencampher, z.B. 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher;
• – 4-Aminobenzoesäurederivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-octylester und 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• – Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäurepropylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisoamylester, 2-Cyano-3-phenyl-zimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Octocrylene);
• – Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure-2-ethylhexylester, Salicylsäure-4-isopropylben-zylester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester;
• – Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-meth-oxy-4‘-methylbenzophenon, 2,2‘-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon;
• – Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzmalonsäuredi-2-ethylhexylester;
• – Triazinderivate, wie z.B. 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2‘-ethyl-1‘-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin und Octyltriazon.
• – Propan-1,3-dione, wie z.B. 1-(4-tert.Butylphenyl)-3-(4‘methoxyphenyl)propan-1,3-dion;

Examples of oil-soluble substances are:

• 3-benzylidene camphor, eg 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor;
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid ester;
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene);
• Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;
• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;
• Triazine derivatives such as 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and octyltriazone.
• Propane-1,3-diones such as 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;

• – 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und deren Alkali-, Erdalkali-, Ammonium-, Alkylammonium-, Alkanolammonium- und Glucammoniumsalze;
• – Sulfonsäurederivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sul-fonsäure und ihre Salze;
• – Sulfonsäurederivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z.B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsul-fonsäure und 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornyliden)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.

Suitable water-soluble substances are:

• 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

As a typical UV-A filter in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane are suitable, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione or 1-phenyl-3 (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione. Of course, the UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble pigments are also used for this purpose, in particular finely disperse metal oxides or salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape.

• – Strukturanten wie Maleinsäure und Milchsäure,
• – Quellmittel wie Harnstoff, Allantoin, Carbonate oder Hydantoin,
• – Dimethylisosorbid und Cyclodextrine,
• – Farbstoffe zum Anfärben des Mittels,
• – Antischuppenwirkstoffe wie Piroctone Olamine, Zink Omadine und Climbazol,
• – Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, β-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren,
• – Trübungsmittel wie Latex, Styrol/PVP- und Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolymere
• – Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat,
• – Pigmente,
• – Stabilisierungsmittel für Wasserstoffperoxid und andere Oxidationsmittel,
• – Treibmittel wie N₂O, Dimethylether, CO₂ und Luft,
• – Antioxidantien,
• – Parfümöle, Duftstoffe und Riechstoffe.

Furthermore, the cosmetic agents may contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as

• - structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,
• Swelling agents such as urea, allantoin, carbonates or hydantoin,
• Dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,
• Dyes for staining the agent,
• Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
• Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
• Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
• - pigments,
• Stabilizing agent for hydrogen peroxide and other oxidizing agents,
• Blowing agents such as N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,
• - antioxidants,
• - Perfume oils, fragrances and fragrances.

With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art.

Another subject of the invention is therefore a method for hair treatment, in which a hair treatment composition according to claim 1 is applied to the hair and rinsed after a contact time of the hair (so-called rinse-off method). The exposure time is preferably a few seconds to 100 minutes, more preferably 1 to 50 minutes and most preferably 1 to 30 minutes. According to the invention is also a method in which a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 is applied to the hair and remains there. By "remaining on the hair" is understood according to the invention that the agent is not rinsed out of the hair immediately after its application. Rather, the agent remains in this case more than 100 minutes to the next hair wash on the hair (so-called leave-on procedure). Particular preference is given to so-called "leave-on product", so that preferred processes according to the invention are characterized in that an agent according to claim 1 is applied to the hair and left there until the next hair wash.

For aesthetic reasons, "clear" products are often preferred by consumers. Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they are transparent or translucent.

In the context of the present invention, transparent or translucent is understood as meaning a composition which has an NTU value of less than 100. The Nephelometric Turbidity Unit (NTU) value is a unit used in water treatment for turbidity measurements in liquids. It is the unit of turbidity measured with a calibrated nephelometer.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the present invention without, however, limiting it.

Examples

All quantities are, unless otherwise stated, parts by weight. The following formulations were provided using known preparation methods

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• DE 102009048299 [0093, 0096]
• EP 1887024A1 [0150]
• EP 1887024 [0150]

Claims (10)

Hair treatment composition comprising a) at least 4 different quaternary ammonium compounds in a total amount of 0.1 to 10.0% by weight selected from the groups a1) of the esterquats and / or a2) of the quaternary imidazolines of the formula (Tkat2),

in which the radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A is a physiologically tolerable anion, and / or a3) the cationic surfactants of the formula (Tkat1-1)

in which the radicals R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 are each independently of one another hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted by one or more A is a physiologically acceptable anion, and / or a4) of the amines and / or cationized amines and / or a5) poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium) and / or; a6) quaternized cellulose derivatives, in particular Polyquaternium 10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-72, and / or a7) cationic alkylpolyglycosides and / or a8) cationized honey and / or a9) cationic guar derivatives and / or a10) chitosan and / or a11) polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, in particular polyquaternium-7 and / or a12) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, in particular polyquaternium-11 and / or a13) vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, especially polyquaternium-16 and / or a14) quaternized polyvinyl alcohol and / or a15) polyquaternium-74, a16) polyquaternium-71, b) at least one cationic keratin hydrolyzate of the formula (I) R'-XR "(I), in which - R 'is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 11 to 24 carbon atoms, - R''is a protein, a peptide or a protein hydrolyzate, - X is -N ⁺ (R ^III ₂ ) R ^IV - or -N (R ^III ) R ^IV - or -C (O) -N (R ^V ) R ^VI -, - R ^III - (CH ₂ ) _x -CH ₃ where x = 0-22 and - R ^IV -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ - or - (CH ₂ ) _x - where x = 0-22; R ^V and R ^VI independently of one another are -H or - (CH ₂ ) _x -CH ₃ with x = 0-22; with the proviso that R'' is keratin or a keratin hydrolyzate, in a total amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, and c) at least one AHA acid in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0% by weight. % and d) 1 to 50 wt .-% ethanol and / or isopropanol and / or mixtures thereof. Hair treatment composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the quaternary ammonium compounds are selected from: a1) the esterquats and / or a2) of the quaternary imidazolines of the formula (Tkat2),

in which the radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A is a physiologically tolerable anion, and / or a3) the cationic surfactants of the formula (Tkat1-1)

in which the radicals R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 are each independently of one another hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted by one or more Hydroxy groups may be substituted and A is a physiologically acceptable anion, and / or a5) poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammoniumverbindungen) and / or; a6) quaternized cellulose derivatives, in particular Polyquaternium 10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-72, and / or a7) cationic alkylpolyglycosides and / or a11) polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, in particular polyquaternium-7 and / or a12) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, in particular polyquaternium-11 and / or a13) vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, in particular polyquaternium-16. Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the cationic keratin hydrolyzate is cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin. Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the alpha-hydroxy acid is selected from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, salicylic acid, gluconic acid, azelaic acid and mixtures thereof. Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that further at least one protein hydrolyzate selected from elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and Wheat protein hydrolysates. Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it further contains at least one nonionic polymer selected from the cellulose ethers and starch and starch derivatives. Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that further comprises an amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant is contained. Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the agent has an NTU value of less than 100. Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the composition at 25 ° C has a Haake viscosity of 4000 to 10,000 mPas. Process for the treatment of keratinic fibers, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 9 is applied to the keratinic fibers and remains there until the next hair wash.