ZA200806868B - Hair care composition - Google Patents

Hair care composition Download PDF

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Publication number
ZA200806868B
ZA200806868B ZA200806868A ZA200806868A ZA200806868B ZA 200806868 B ZA200806868 B ZA 200806868B ZA 200806868 A ZA200806868 A ZA 200806868A ZA 200806868 A ZA200806868 A ZA 200806868A ZA 200806868 B ZA200806868 B ZA 200806868B
Authority
ZA
South Africa
Prior art keywords
hair
post
monoglyceride
composition
treatment composition
Prior art date
Application number
ZA200806868A
Inventor
Cheryl Anne Taylor
Original Assignee
Unilever Plc
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Unilever Plc filed Critical Unilever Plc
Publication of ZA200806868B publication Critical patent/ZA200806868B/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Description

» J3878 (C) CPL wn
The present invention is directed to a hair relaxing composition and a method of relaxing hair. 3 .
Hair relaxers are compositions used to relax or straighten curly or kinky hair. Most hair relaxers straighten hair by disrupting disulfide bonds of the hair fibres with an “alkaline agent or reducing agent. The chemical disruption of disulfide bonds is usually combined with mechanical straightening of the hair (eg by combing). The straightening ~ process is generally terminated by rinsing and/or the : application of a neutralizing composition.
A source of hydroxide ions is usually the preferred alkaline agent used to straighten hair. The term "lanthionizing" is used when referring to hair relaxed or straightened by hydroxide ions, as the straightening reaction sequence with hydroxide ions results in lanthionine residue formation. ~ _ i ~~ Most frequently, commercial relaxing compositions are : in the form of gels or emulsions and contain varying } proportions of strong water- soluble bases, such as sodium hydroxide (NaOH). Also used are slightly-soluble metal . hydroxides, such as calcium hydroxide (Ca(OH).), which can be converted in situ to soluble bases, such as guanidine ’ hydroxide. oo - Hair relaxers leave the hair treated therewith feeling rough, unconditioned and brittle. The present invention
. J3878 (C) CPL
R -2- relates to hair relaxing systems which leave the hair less prone to breakage and feeling smooth.
In one aspect the present invention relates to a method for relaxing hair comprising the following steps: oo i). applying to the hair for a sufficient period of : time to lanthionize the hair a relaxer ‘composition; + ii) terminating the lanthionization process; iii) applying to the lanthionized hair a post- : lanthionization composition comprising a mono : glyceride having an C16 to C22 alkyl ester group. -
A further aspect of the invention is the use of a mono glyceride having an Cl6 to C22 alkyl ester group a post-treatment composition for decreasing hair breakage.
As disclosed above the present invention relates to post-. treatment composition for application after application of a : relaxing composition. In the context of the present invention "relaxing composition” means a composition So Co comprising at least one hydroxide ion generator in an amount sufficient to effect lanthionization of keratin fibres. The : term post-treatment refers to a treatment applied to the 3 hair after the lathionization process, and preferably after any subsequent termination process. :
The hydroxide ion generator may be chosen from those : compositions that produce hydroxide ions appropriate for the lanthionization of hair. As used herein, "hydroxide ion generator" refers to both compounds and compositions that
. J3878 (C) CPL - 3 = generate hydroxide ions, and compounds and compositions that comprise hydroxide ions. Hydroxide ion generators may, for example, be chosen from traditional "lye" and "no lye" hair relaxer compositions and other soluble or slightly soluble hydroxide ion sources. Preferably, the hydroxide ion is ~ generated in situ. Preferred hydroxide ion generators are’ strong water- soluble bases, particularly preferred is sodium hydroxide. :
The post lanthionization composition comprises a : monoglyceride having an C16 to C22 alkyl ester group. . Preferably the mono glyceride comprises a long chain oo unsaturated group, and is more preferably glyceryl oo 15 monololeate. SE "The level of monoglyceride within the post-treatment composition is preferably from 1 to 10 wt%, more preferably from 3.5 to 7.5 wt% of the total composition. oo
The post treatment composition will preferably comprise one ’ or more conditioning surfactants which are cosmetically . . acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.
Suitable conditioning surfactants are selected from cationic surfactants, used singly or in admixture.
Cationic surfactants useful in compositions of the invention : contain amino or quaternary ammonium hydrophilic moieties ‘which are positively charged when dissolved in the aqueous composition of the present invention.
. J3878 (C) CPL .
Examples of suitable cationic surfactants are those corresponding ‘to the general formula: [N(R1) (Rg) (R3) (Rg) ]™ (X)°7
E 5 in which Ri, R;, Rs, and Ry; are independently selected from (a) an aliphatic group of from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, or (b) an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, : hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to 22 carbon atoms; and X is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halogen, (e.g. chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, ‘ lactate, glycolate, phosphate nitrate, sulphate, and : alkylsulphate radicals. ~ :
The aliphatic groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amino groups. The longer chain aliphatic groups, e.g., those of about 12 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated.
The most preferred cationic surfactants for conditioner compositions of the present invention are monoalkyl quaternary ammonium compounds in which the alkyl chain length is C8 to Cl4.
Suitable examples of such materials correspond to the general formula: : [N(Rs) (Re) (R7) (Rg) 1" (X)~
. J3878 (C) CPL in which Rs is a hydrocarbyl chain having 8 to 14 carbon atoms or a functionalised hydrocarbyl chain with 8 to 14 : carbon atoms and containing ether, ester, amido or amino moieties present as substituents or as linkages in the radical chain, and Rg, Ry and Rg are independently selected
Co from (a) hydrocarbyl chains of from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, or (b) functionalised hydrocarbyl chains having from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms and containing one or more : aromatic, ether, ester, amido or amino moieties present as substituents or as linkages in the radical chain, and X is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halogen, . (e.g. chloride, bromide), acetate; citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate nitrate, sulphate, and alkylsulphate " radicals. : : ) | | oo
The functionalised hydrocarbyl chains (b) may suitably contain one or more hydrophilic moieties selected from alkoxy (preferably C; — C3 alkoxy), polyoxyalkylene (preferably C; = C3; polyoxyalkylene), alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, alkylester, and combinations thereof.
Preferably the hydrocarbyl chains R; have 12 to 14 carbon atoms, most preferably 12 carbon atoms. They may be derived from source Qils which contain substantial amounts of fatty acids having the desired hydrocarbyl chain length. For : example, the fatty acids from palm kernel oil or coconut oil can be used as a source of C8 to C12 hydrocarbyl chains. : Typical monoalkyl quaternary ammonium compounds of the above general formula for use in shampoo compositions of the invention include: | :
. J3878 (C) CPL
Pa (i) lauryl trimethylammonium chloride (available commercially as Arquad C35 ex-Akzo); cocodimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride (available commercially as
Arquad DMCB-80 ex-Akzo) ; (ii) compounds of the general formula: [N(R1) (Rz2) ((CHp CH 0), H) ((CHp CH O)y H)1" (X)7 in which:
X + y is an integer from 2 to 20; oo
R; is a hydrocarbyl chain having 8 to 14, preferably 12 to 14, most preferably 12 carbon atoms or a functionalised hydrocarbyl chain with 8 to 14, preferably 12 to 14, most preferably 12 carbon atoms and containing ether, ester, amido or amino moieties present as substituents or as linkages in the radical chain; )
R; is a C1 - C3 alkyl group or benzyl group, preferably . a methyl, and
X is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from ‘halogen, (e.g. chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, . lactate, glycolate, phosphate nitrate, sulphate, ~~ methosulphate and alkylsulphate radicals.
Suitable examples are PEG-n lauryl ammonium chlorides (where - 30 n is the PEG chain length), such as PEG-2 cocomonium chloride (available commercially as Ethoquad C12 ex-Akzo
. J3878 (C) CPL
Nobel); PEG-2 cocobenzyl ammonium chloride (available commercially as Ethoquad CB/12 ex-Akzo Nobel); PEG-5 : cocomonium methosulphate (available commercially as Rewoguat
CPEM ex-Rewo); PEG-15 cocomonium chloride (available : commercially as Ethoquad C/25 ex-Akzo). : (iii) compounds of the general formula: [N(R;) (R2) (Rs) ((CHz)n OH) 1" (X)~ ’ in which: oo : n is an integer from 1 to 4, preferably 2; )
Rp; is a hydrocarbyl chain having 8 to 14, preferably 12 to 14, most preferably 12 carbon atoms; :
R, and Riz are independently selected from C; - C3 alkyl groups, and are preferably methyl, and | .
X is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from : halogen, (e.g. chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, } lactate, glycolate, phosphate nitrate, sulphate, and alkylsulphate radicals. :
Suitable examples are lauryldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chloride (available commercially as Prapagen HY ex-
Clariant). oo )
Mixtures of any of the foregoing cationic surfactants compounds may also be suitable.
. J3878 (C) CPL _ 20
SE + .4008/063868 og
Examples of suitable cationic surfactants include: quaternary ammonium chlorides, e.g. alkyltrimethylammonium : chlorides wherein the alkyl group has from about 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethyl- ammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzyl-
Co smn Lum chloride, stearyldi-methylbenzylammonium chloride, So didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, : dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallow trimethylammonium chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride, and the corresponding salts thereof, e.g., bromides, hydroxides. Cetylpyridinium chloride or salts thereof, : : e.g., chloride
Quaternium -5 oo Quaternium -31
Quaternium -18 oo : oo and mixtures thereof.
In the conditioners of the invention, the level of cationic surfactant is preferably from 0.01 to 10, more preferably 0.05 to 7, most preferably 0.5 to 5 wt% of the total Co : composition. og . -
The weight ratio of cationic conditioning agent to : monoglyceride within the post-treatment composition is preferably from 1:10 to 10:1, more preferably from 1:5 to. 5:1.
. J3878 (C) CPL . Cg
Post treatment compositions of the invention preferably : additionally comprise a fatty alcohol material. The combined use of fatty alcohol materials and cationic surfactants in conditioning compositions is believed to be especially advantageous, because this leads to the formation of a lamellar phase, in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed.
By “fatty alcohol material” is meant a fatty alcohol, an : alkoxylated fatty alcohol, or a mixture thereof. : Representative fatty alcohols comprise from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 20. Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures : thereof. The use of these materials is also advantageous in that they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of compositions of the invention. : ~ Alkoxylated, (e.g. ethoxylated or propoxylated) fatty alcohols having from about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain can be used in place of, or in addition to, oo the fatty alcohols themselves. Suitable examples include oo ethylene glycol cetyl ether, polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene (4) cetyl ether, and mixtures : thereof. :
The level of fatty alcohol material in conditioners of the invention is suitably from 0.01 to 15, preferably from 0.1 to 10, and more preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt%. The weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is suitably
. J3878 (C) CPL from 10:1 to 1:10, preferably from 4:1 to 1:8, optimally from 1:1 to 1:7, for example 1:3. :
Post treatment compositions of the invention can also contain a cationic polymer. :
The compositions of the invention can contain, emulsified droplets of a silicone conditioning: agent, for enhancing ++ - conditioning performance. The silicone is insoluble in the aqueous matrix of the composition and so is present in an . emulsified form, with the silicone present as dispersed droplets. : Co
Lo Suitable silicones include polydiorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes which have the CTFA designation dimethicone. Also suitable for use compositions of the invention (particularly shampoos and conditioners) are polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxyl end groups, which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol. Also suitable for use in compositions of the invention are silicone gums having a slight degree of cross-linking, as are described oo for example in WO 96/31188. "These materials can impart : body, volume and stylability to hair, as well as good wet and dry conditioning. oo | | | | | I
The viscosity of the emulsified silicone itself (not the emulsion or the final hair conditioning composition) is : typically at least 10,000 cst. In general we have found that conditioning performance increases with increased viscosity. Accordingly, the viscosity of the silicone itself is preferably at least 60,000 cst, most preferably at
. J3878 (C) CPL least 500,000 cst, ideally at least 1,000,000 cst.
Preferably the viscosity does not exceed 10° cst for ease of formulation. : :
Emulsified silicones for use .in the shampoo compositions of the invention will typically have an average silicone droplet size in the composition of less than 30, preferably less than 20, more preferably less than 10 pum. We have _ found that reducing the droplet size generally improves conditioning performance. Most preferably the average silicone droplet size of the emulsified silicone in the composition is less than 2 pum, ideally it ranges from 0.01 to 1 um. Silicone emulsions having an average silicone droplet size of < 0.15 pm are generally termed microemulsions. Co .
Suitable silicone emulsions for use in the invention are also commercially available in a pre-emulsified form.
Examples of suitable pre-formed emulsions include emulsions
DC2-1766, DC2-1784, and microemulsions DC2-1865 and :
DC2-1870, all available from Dow Corning. These are all emulsions/microemulsions of dimethiconol. Cross-linked silicone gums are also available in a pre-—-emulsified form, which is advantageous for ease of formulation. A preferred - example is the material available from Dow Corning as DC X2- 1787, which is an emulsion of cross-linked dimethiconol gum. : A further preferred example is the material available from } Dow Corning as DC X2-1391, which is a microemulsion of cross-linked dimethiconol gum.

Claims (10)

  1. . J3878 (C) CPL “ Co Claims me——— .
    i 1. A method for relaxing hair comprising the following steps: Co i) applying to the hair for a sufficient period of time to lanthionize the hair a relaxer composition; : oo ii) terminating the lanthionization process; : } iii) applying to the lanthionized hair a post- lanthionization composition comprising a : : monoglyceride having a C16 to C22 alkyl ester ) So group. : E
  2. 2. A method according to claim 1 in which the total level
    15 . of monoglyceride within the post-treatment composition is from 3.5 to 7.5 wt%.
  3. 3. A method according to claim 1 or claim 2 in which the monoglyceride is glycerol monooleate. :
  4. 4. A method according to any preceding claim in which the : post-treatment composition further comprises a cationic conditioning surfactant. :
  5. 5. A method according to claim 4 in which the weight ratio : : of cationic conditioning agent to monoglyceride within . the post-treatment composition is from 1:5 to 5:1.
  6. 6. A method according to any preceding claim in which the post-treatment composition further comprises a silicone. :
    J3878 (C) CPL
  7. 7. A method according to any preceding claim in which the relaxer composition comprises at least one hydroxide ion generator which generates hydroxide ions in situ.
  8. - 8. Use of a monoglyceride having a Cl6 to C22 alkyl ester group in a post-treatment composition for decreasing hair breakage. So
  9. 9. A method according to claim 1, substantially as : - hereinbefore described or exemplified.
  10. 10. Use according to claim 8, substantially as hereinbefore described or exemplified. DATED THIS 8™ DAY OF AUGUST 2008 : Cc . . . fists : : OOR & FISHER oo : PLICANTS PAT ATTORNEYS
ZA200806868A 2007-08-10 2008-08-08 Hair care composition ZA200806868B (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP07114205 2007-08-10

Publications (1)

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ZA200806868B true ZA200806868B (en) 2010-05-26

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ID=38917696

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
ZA200806868A ZA200806868B (en) 2007-08-10 2008-08-08 Hair care composition

Country Status (2)

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ZA (1) ZA200806868B (en)

Family Cites Families (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4314573A (en) * 1979-05-22 1982-02-09 Spitzer J George Process for conditioning hair
US5293885A (en) * 1991-07-11 1994-03-15 Johnson Products Co., Inc. Hair relaxer and post-relaxer hair brightener system
DE19805703C2 (en) * 1998-02-06 2001-05-03 Cognis Deutschland Gmbh Hair care products
US20040208837A1 (en) * 1998-03-02 2004-10-21 Marcus Krueger Agents and method for treating keratinous fibers
DE10126446A1 (en) * 2001-05-31 2002-12-05 Cognis Deutschland Gmbh Hair care products with natural oils
CA2558114A1 (en) * 2004-03-15 2005-09-29 Danisco A/S Emulsifier composition for shortening
ZA200606791B (en) * 2005-08-18 2008-05-28 Unilever Plc Method for relaxing hair

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US20090044822A1 (en) 2009-02-19

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