WO2025236708A1 - 一种新型双针床贾卡针织面料及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种新型双针床贾卡针织面料及其制备方法Info
- Publication number
- WO2025236708A1 WO2025236708A1 PCT/CN2024/144554 CN2024144554W WO2025236708A1 WO 2025236708 A1 WO2025236708 A1 WO 2025236708A1 CN 2024144554 W CN2024144554 W CN 2024144554W WO 2025236708 A1 WO2025236708 A1 WO 2025236708A1
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- layer
- double
- knitted fabric
- woven
- needle
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
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Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/06—Patterned fabrics or articles
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/10—Open-work fabrics
Definitions
- This invention relates to the field of fabric technology, specifically to a novel double-needle bed jacquard knitted fabric and its preparation method.
- Method 1 Currently, there are single and double layer combinations using a coiled design on the market. However, this method has significant limitations, as it can only be used in the vertical and horizontal directions with fixed positions, which greatly restricts the design of the fabric. Secondly, although the coiled single and double layer combination achieves a lightweight feel and a localized sandwich-like elasticity, it increases the difficulty of workshop operations, increases labor costs, and extends the production cycle, resulting in a serious waste of time. While there are some innovative design structures, they are still insufficient.
- Method 2 Using DTY (polyester) yarn in the middle of a yarn frame, the yarn is partially absorbed and partially not, creating localized thickness variations. It appears similar to single or double-layer mesh fabric. However, the double-layered areas are filled with DTY yarn, while the single-layered areas are simply hollowed out in the middle, failing to achieve a true single-layer mesh fabric. The thickness of the fabric can only be felt by touch, and it does not achieve the visual effect of a physical structure. This type of fabric is prone to bubbling and abnormalities in subsequent processing, affecting shoemaking results and production.
- This invention provides a novel double-needle bed jacquard knitted fabric and its preparation method, which overcomes the shortcomings described in the background art.
- a novel double-needle bed jacquard knitted fabric includes a face layer, a back layer, a connecting layer, a base layer, and/or a face layer.
- the face layer is connected to the back layer through the connecting layer to form a double-layer structure.
- the yarns that make up the face layer, back layer, and connecting layer are only woven together in the face layer to form the face layer, and the yarns that make up the face layer, back layer, and connecting layer are only woven together in the back layer to form the base layer.
- the double-layer structure, the face layer, and/or the base layer are located on the same piece of knitted fabric and form a complete knitted fabric structure.
- the face layer and/or the base layer can be located in any local area of the knitted fabric.
- Knitted fabrics also include openwork structures.
- the double-layer structure forms an openwork structure between the surface layer and the bottom layer by delamination, which is not connected.
- a preferred technical solution a jacquard structure is provided on the top layer and/or the bottom layer.
- ventilation holes are provided on the top layer and/or bottom layer.
- the double-layer structure changes the local thickness of the knitted fabric by weaving connecting layers with different structures or containing different numbers of yarns.
- the surface layer, connecting layer, and bottom layer are composed of yarns of at least one color or at least one material woven together.
- the surface layer, connecting layer, and bottom layer can be woven with single-color yarns to form the corresponding fabric structure, or they can be woven with multi-color yarns to form the corresponding fabric structure;
- the surface layer, connecting layer, and bottom layer can be woven with yarns of one material to form the corresponding fabric structure, or they can be woven with a combination of yarns of multiple materials to form the corresponding fabric structure.
- the more complex the fabric structure the more jacquards are required, and more stitch counts (two-needle, three-needle, four-needle) jacquard are used to improve the style of the jacquard pattern.
- a pile layer of arbitrary thickness is set at any position on the new double-needle bed jacquard knitted fabric.
- Knitted fabric is knitted by a knitting machine.
- the knitting machine is equipped with knitting needles, which include a needle core, a needle belly, and a needle hook.
- the needle core is separately set on the needle belly, i.e., a separate knitting needle.
- the needle hook is set on the knitting needle.
- the needle belly specifically refers to the middle section of the knitting needle.
- a method for preparing a novel double-needle-bed jacquard knitted fabric includes the following steps:
- Double-layer structure weaving wherein the double-layer structure includes a face layer, a connecting layer, and a bottom layer, all of which are formed by yarns woven according to corresponding weaving actions;
- the bottom single layer is woven, and after the double layer structure is woven, the bottom single layer is woven again.
- the yarns that make up the surface layer, connecting layer and bottom layer are woven together in the bottom layer position after the double layer structure is woven to form the bottom single layer.
- a method for preparing a novel double-needle-bed jacquard knitted fabric includes the following steps:
- Double-layer structure weaving wherein the double-layer structure includes a face layer, a connecting layer, and a bottom layer, all of which are formed by yarns woven according to corresponding weaving actions;
- Single-layer knitting after double-layer knitting, continue knitting the single layer.
- the yarns that make up the surface layer, connecting layer and bottom layer are knitted together in the surface layer position after the double-layer structure is knitted to form a single layer.
- a method for preparing a novel double-needle-bed jacquard knitted fabric includes the following steps:
- Double-layer structure weaving wherein the double-layer structure includes a face layer, a connecting layer, and a bottom layer, all of which are formed by yarns woven according to corresponding weaving actions;
- the bottom single layer is woven, and after the double layer structure is woven, the bottom single layer is woven again.
- the yarns that make up the surface layer, connecting layer and bottom layer are woven together in the bottom layer position after the double layer structure is woven to form the bottom single layer.
- Single-layer knitting after double-layer knitting, continue knitting the single layer.
- the yarns that make up the surface layer, connecting layer and bottom layer are knitted together in the surface layer position after the double-layer structure is knitted to form a single layer.
- the connecting layer is woven from at least one Jacquard comb padding yarn, the Jacquard comb including a first Jacquard comb, wherein the first Jacquard comb padding yarn on the front needle bed and the rear needle bed forms a first knitting area, the first Jacquard comb padding yarn suspended between the front needle bed and the rear needle bed forms a second knitting area, and the thickness of the first knitting area is greater than the thickness of the second knitting area.
- the novel double-needle bed jacquard knitting fabric weaving structure of the present invention realizes a free single and double layer structure, which allows for more structural styles of the fabric structure. At the same time, it also saves on workshop operation difficulty during weaving and preparation, and indirectly improves weaving efficiency.
- the knitted fabric in this invention can be combined with a plush layer structure on the basis of a single or double layer structure to form a novel double-needle bed jacquard knitted fabric with a plush layer.
- Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of a new type of double-needle bed jacquard knitted fabric with a single-layer face and a single-layer back;
- Figure 2 is a structural schematic diagram of the novel double-needle bed Jacquard knitted fabric in Example 2;
- Figure 3 is a structural schematic diagram of another novel double-needle bed jacquard knitted fabric in Example 2;
- Figure 4 is a schematic diagram of the knitting needle structure used in the knitting equipment of this application.
- Figure 5 is a schematic diagram of the structure of a knitting needle in the prior art
- Figure 6 is a schematic diagram of the new double-needle bed jacquard knitted fabric.
- Figure 7 is a schematic diagram of another style of the new double-needle bed jacquard knitted fabric
- Figure 8 is a schematic diagram of the structure of the grooved needle free-felt knitted mesh fabric formed in Example 8.
- Figure 9 is a schematic diagram of the structure of the free-feel knitted mesh fabric with a central groove needle formed in Example 9;
- Figure 10 is a schematic diagram of the structure of a novel double-needle bed jacquard knitted fabric with a napped layer.
- a novel double-needle bed jacquard knitted fabric includes a face layer 1, a back layer 3, a connecting layer 2, a bottom layer 5, and/or a face layer 4.
- Face layer 1 is connected to back layer 3 via connecting layer 2 to form a double-layer structure.
- the yarns comprising face layer 1, back layer 3, and connecting layer 2 are woven together only in face layer 1 to form face layer 4, and the yarns comprising face layer 1, back layer 3, and connecting layer 2 are woven together only in back layer 3 to form bottom layer 5.
- the double-layer structure, face layer 4, and/or bottom layer 5 are located on the same piece of knitted fabric and form a complete knitted fabric structure. Face layer 4 and/or bottom layer 5 can be located in any local area of the knitted fabric.
- Knitted fabric is made by knitting equipment.
- the knitting equipment is equipped with knitting needles 100.
- Knitting needles 100 include needle core 102, needle hook 101, and needle belly.
- the needle core 102 is separately set on the needle belly, that is, a separate knitting needle.
- the needle hook 101 is set on the knitting needle 100.
- the needle belly specifically refers to the middle section of the knitting needle.
- a knitted fabric may have a double-layer structure consisting of a face layer 1, a bottom layer 3, and a connecting layer 2. It may also have a single face layer 1, or a bottom layer 1, or a single face layer 1 and a bottom layer 1. The single face layer 1 and the bottom layer 1 may be placed at any position on the entire knitted fabric and may be knitted into any shape of pattern.
- the specific structure of the knitting needle 100 is shown in Figure 4, and the structure of the knitting needle 100 in the prior art is shown in Figure 5.
- the knitted fabric in this application will not cause the machine to be unable to start and continue knitting due to the closure of the needle, and can be directly woven with monofilament or thermoplastic yarn, thus retaining the Q-elastic effect of the original traditional Sanming and achieving a light weight (because monofilament and thermoplastic yarn are lighter than DTY yarn and have Q-elasticity), achieving a win-win situation.
- a jacquard structure i.e. a jacquard pattern, is provided on the surface layer 1 and/or the bottom layer 3, making the patterns on the surface of the knitted fabric more diverse.
- ventilation holes 11 are provided on the top layer 1 and/or the bottom layer 3.
- the ventilation holes 11 of any shape are provided on the top layer 1 and the bottom layer 3.
- the shape of the ventilation holes 11 is such as circle, triangle, rectangle, etc.
- the double-layer structure alters the local thickness of the knitted fabric by weaving connecting layers 2 with different structures or containing different numbers of yarns.
- a knitted fabric structure with the corresponding structure can be selected and combined.
- this embodiment provides a novel double-needle bed jacquard knitted fabric.
- the structural difference between this embodiment and the novel double-needle bed jacquard knitted fabric in Embodiment 1 is as follows:
- the knitted fabric also includes a hollow structure 12, which is a double-layer structure formed by delamination, resulting in a hollow structure 12 that is not connected between the surface layer 1 and the bottom layer 3.
- the top layer 1, connecting layer 2, and bottom layer 3 are composed of yarns of at least one color or at least one material.
- the top layer 1, connecting layer 2, and bottom layer 3 can be woven with single-color yarns to form the corresponding fabric structure, or with multi-color yarns.
- the top layer 1, connecting layer 2, and bottom layer 3 can also be woven with yarns of one material or with a combination of yarns of multiple materials. More complex fabric structures require more jacquard stitches and more stitch counts (two-needle, three-needle, four-needle) to enhance the style of the jacquard pattern.
- the connecting layer 2 is a single material
- the connecting layer 2 is a single material or single color connecting layer 2 structure made of single jacquard braid
- the connecting layer 2 has two structures
- the connecting layer 2 is woven by two jacquards (jacquard 1 21 and jacquard 22 in the figure).
- the connecting layer 2 with these two structures can also be two colors; or more jacquards can be used to achieve more style structures.
- the weaving equipment can weave more complex structures.
- This embodiment provides a method for preparing a novel double-needle bed jacquard knitted fabric, including the following steps:
- Double-layer structure weaving wherein the double-layer structure includes a face layer 1, a connecting layer 2, and a bottom layer 3, all of which are woven from yarns according to corresponding weaving actions;
- the bottom single layer 5 is woven, and after the double layer structure is woven, the bottom single layer 5 is woven again.
- the yarns that make up the surface layer 1, connecting layer 2, and bottom layer 3 are woven together at the bottom layer 3 position after the double layer structure is woven to form the bottom single layer 5.
- This embodiment provides a method for preparing a novel double-needle bed jacquard knitted fabric, including the following steps:
- Double-layer structure weaving wherein the double-layer structure includes a face layer 1, a connecting layer 2, and a bottom layer 3, all of which are woven from yarns according to corresponding weaving actions;
- the single layer 4 is woven, and after the double layer structure is woven, the single layer 4 is woven again.
- the yarns that make up the surface layer 1, connecting layer 2, and bottom layer 3 are woven together at the surface layer 1 position after the double layer structure is woven to form the single layer 4.
- This embodiment provides a method for preparing a novel double-needle bed jacquard knitted fabric, including the following steps:
- Double-layer structure weaving wherein the double-layer structure includes a face layer 1, a connecting layer 2, and a bottom layer 3, all of which are woven from yarns according to corresponding weaving actions;
- the bottom single layer 5 is woven, and after the double layer structure is woven, the bottom single layer 5 is woven again.
- the yarns that make up the surface layer 1, connecting layer 2, and bottom layer 3 are woven together at the bottom layer 3 position after the double layer structure is woven to form the bottom single layer 5.
- the single layer 4 is woven, and after the double layer structure is woven, the single layer 4 is woven again.
- the yarns that make up the surface layer 1, connecting layer 2, and bottom layer 3 are woven together at the surface layer 1 position after the double layer structure is woven to form the single layer 4.
- the connecting layer 2 is woven from at least one Jacquard comb padding yarn, which includes a first Jacquard comb, wherein the first Jacquard comb padding yarn is woven on the front needle bed and the back needle bed to form a first woven area, and the first Jacquard comb padding yarn is woven between the front needle bed and the back needle bed to form a second woven area, and the thickness of the first woven area is greater than the thickness of the second woven area.
- This embodiment provides a method for preparing a novel double-needle bed jacquard knitted fabric, specifically a double jacquard knitted fabric, which is composed of three layers of mesh yarn and is divided into a jacquard design part on the surface layer 1 and a bottom design part.
- Jacquard design comb 2.5-gauge yarn frame combs. Jacquard I can be woven on the face as needed to form a double-sided sandwich mesh, and on the bottom to form a single-layer structure;
- JK3 Warped P-DTY150D/48F semi-dull environmentally friendly white low-elastic micro-mesh yarn, with 1536 yarns on the yarn frame. JK3 yarn is threaded on the machine in a 1-thread-1-air manner, with a gear warp feed of 5733m/lacquer. It has a variable warp plain weave of 1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1//. The content of JK3 polyester environmentally friendly low-elastic lightweight mesh yarn is about 31.035%.
- JK4 Warped P-DTY150D/48F semi-dull environmentally friendly white low-elastic micro-mesh yarn, with 1536 yarns on the yarn frame. JK4 yarn is threaded on the machine in a 1-thread-1-air manner, with a gear warp feed of 5733m/lacquer. It has a variable warp plain weave of 1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1//. The content of JK4 polyester environmentally friendly low-elastic lightweight mesh yarn is about 31.035%.
- Jacquard 2-comb 2 combs (freestyle design; customizable, mesh and plain texture can be designed in specific areas);
- JK4 Warped SCY-40D/100D/48F polyester environmentally friendly white low-elastic spandex single-spun yarn, 6 warp heads, each with 256 yarns. JK4 yarn is threaded on the machine in a 1-thread-1-air manner, with a gear feed rate of 2800mm/lactage. It follows a variable warp plain weave 1-1/1-0/1-1/1-2//. The JK4 core-spun yarn content is approximately 11.116%.
- JK5 Warped SCY-40D/100D/48F polyester environmentally friendly white low-elastic spandex single-spun yarn, 6 warp heads, each with 256 yarns.
- JK5 yarn is threaded on the machine in a 1-thread-1-air manner, with a gear warp feed of 2800mm/lactage. It follows a variable warp plain weave 1-1/1-0/1-1/1-2//.
- the JK5 core-spun yarn content is approximately 11.116%.
- GB6 Warped P-DTY150D/48F semi-dull low-elasticity lightweight mesh yarn, 6 warp heads, 512 yarns per warp head, GB6 yarn is threaded on the machine in a full-thread manner, gear warp feed is 1450m/lac, chain weave is 1-1/0-1/1-1/1-0//, GB6 low-elasticity lightweight mesh yarn content is about 15.699%;
- Bottom layer GB yarn with 1-2 combs (bottom without mesh design) or 2 combs can be used to form a regular mesh according to the design requirements of the open threading process.
- This embodiment provides a single- and double-layer combined knitted fabric, specifically a three-jac knitted fabric.
- the single- and double-layer combined knitted fabric is composed of three layers of mesh yarn: the surface layer 1 jacquard design part, the middle layer design part, and the bottom layer design part.
- Jacquard design comb 2.5-gauge yarn frame combs. Jacquard I can be woven on the face as needed to form a double-sided sandwich mesh, or woven on the bottom to form a single-layer structure;
- JK3 Warped P-DTY100D/48F CD bright low-elasticity lightweight mesh yarn, with 1536 yarns on the yarn frame. JK3 yarn is threaded on the machine in a 1-thread-1-air manner, with a gear warp feed of 2500m/lacquer. It has a variable warp plain weave of 1-0/1-1/1-2/1-1//. The content of JK3 CD bright low-elasticity lightweight mesh yarn is about 12.422%.
- JK4 Warped P-DTY100D/48F CD bright low-elasticity lightweight mesh yarn, with 1536 yarns on the yarn frame. JK4 yarn is threaded on the machine in a 1-thread-1-air manner, with a gear warp feed of 2500m/lacquer. It has a variable warp plain weave of 1-0/1-1/1-2/1-1//. The content of JK4 CD bright low-elasticity lightweight mesh yarn is about 12.422%.
- Jacquard II design comb 2.5-gauge yarn frame combs. Jacquard II can be used to weave on the face as needed to form a double-sided openwork sandwich mesh, or to weave on the bottom to form a single-layer structure. It can also be used to form jacquard sandwich mesh with different heights on both the top and bottom (different heights can be achieved through Jacquard II, three-needle/four-needle/two-needle methods, and the height of some sandwiches can also be adjusted synchronously with different yarn deniers and machine openings).
- JK5 Warped P-DTY120D/48F polyester environmentally friendly low-elasticity lightweight mesh yarn, with 1536 yarns on the yarn frame. JK5 yarn is threaded on the machine in a 1-thread-1-air manner, with a gear warp feed of 3100m/lacquer. It has a variable warp plain weave of 0-1/1-0/1-2/2-1//. The content of JK5 polyester environmentally friendly low-elasticity lightweight mesh yarn is about 18.946%.
- JK6 Warped P-DTY120D/48F polyester environmentally friendly low-elasticity lightweight mesh yarn, with 1536 yarns on the yarn frame. JK5 yarn is threaded on the machine in a 1-thread-1-air manner, with a gear warp feed of 3100m/rube. It has a variable warp plain weave of 0-1/1-0/1-2/2-1//. The content of JK5 polyester environmentally friendly low-elasticity lightweight mesh yarn is about 18.946%.
- the middle part of the design in this utility model is mainly to relate to different sandwich thicknesses. Different yarns can be replaced as needed. For example, DTY yarn can be used to achieve a sponge-like sandwich effect thickness, or thermoplastic yarn or monofilament yarn can be used to achieve a spring-like sandwich effect thickness.
- Jacquard Triple Mesh Comb 2 combs (freestyle design. Customizable, mesh and flat texture can be designed in specific areas);
- JK7 Warped P-DTY100D/72F semi-dull environmentally friendly low-elasticity lightweight recycled yarn, 6 warp heads, each with 256 yarns. JK7 yarn is threaded on the machine in a 1-thread-1-air manner, with a gear feed rate of 2550mm/rubc. It follows a variable warp plain weave 1-1/0-1//1-1/2-1//. The JK7 polyester environmentally friendly yarn content is approximately 12.670%.
- JK8 Warped P-DTY100D/72F semi-dull environmentally friendly low-elasticity lightweight recycle yarn, 6 warp heads, each with 256 yarns. JK8 yarn is threaded on the machine in a 1-thread-1-air manner, with a gear feed rate of 2550mm/rubc. It follows a variable warp plain weave 1-1/0-1//1-1/2-1//. JK8 contains approximately 12.670% polyester environmentally friendly yarn.
- GB9 Warped P-DTY75D/36F semi-dull environmentally friendly low-elasticity lightweight mesh (recycle) yarn, 6 coils, 512 yarns per coil.
- GB9 yarn is threaded on the machine in a full-thread manner, with a gear feed rate of 1600m/rubber, and a chain weave structure of 1-1/1-0/0-1/1-1//.
- the content of GB9 low-elasticity lightweight mesh yarn is about 11.925%.
- Bottom layer GB yarn with 1-2 combs (bottom without mesh design) or 2 combs can be used to form a regular mesh according to the design requirements of the open threading process.
- Three-color jacquard can be designed to achieve 3 or 4 colors of jacquard on the mesh fabric, or to enrich the pile height effect of the middle layer.
- the single and double layer fabrics in this utility model can be set as non-rectangular (not restricted by vertical or horizontal) single-layer structures, such as circles or patterns composed of any weaving direction;
- Knitting equipment typically operates through an open needle groove system consisting of upper and lower needle beds and upper and lower needle plates, circulating vertically. Yarn is first fed into the needle groove by a yarn feeder, and then picked up by a needle guide and hooked onto the needle. As the needle bed moves back and forth, various knitting patterns are completed on the needle plate.
- the knitting needle 100 includes a needle core 102, a needle hook 101, and a needle belly. The needle core 102 is separately located on the needle belly, preventing the machine from failing to start due to a closed needle.
- method 2 in the background technology uses a method of not weaving yarn in the middle to reduce the thickness of the double-layer fabric, defining this thinned double layer as a single layer. However, in essence, it is still a double layer, and this part of the double layer is still separate. If you poke this part, the two layers can be misaligned.
- the entire fabric is double-layered. Even if some parts are very thin and appear to be single-layered, they still have a surface layer 1 and a bottom layer 3. It cannot be a single layer in the true sense (only the surface layer 1 is woven, and the bottom layer 3 is not woven; or only the bottom layer 3 is woven, and the surface layer 1 is not woven).
- the needle core 102 is closed. When using this needle on a knitting machine, after knitting a double-layer area and then a single layer, the needle 100 will close. Once closed, it cannot be opened, thus preventing the continuous knitting of single and double-layer fabrics.
- the knitting principle of needle 100 is as follows: During knitting, the yarn is placed inside the needle hook 101. When the machine descends, the previously knitted loops are unhooked and then reset. The needle core 102 opens and closes repeatedly, continuously forming new and old loops, thus completing the knitting action.
- the needle core 102 When knitting fabric with a traditional knitting needle 100, after the fabric has been knitted in a double-layer structure with both open and closed loops, when knitting a single side, if a certain side is not knitted, the needle core 102 may be in two states: fully open or fully closed. Once closed, it can never be opened again because there is no yarn to pad the yarn when a certain side is not knitted.
- the knitting needle 100 adopts a separate structure, which does not rely on the cooperation of old and new coils to open the needle core 102, and no longer relies on padding yarn to determine whether the needle core 102 opens or not. Instead, the opening and closing of the needle core 102 is achieved by actively controlling the equipment.
- the novel double-needle bed jacquard knitted fabric in the above embodiments can be knitted using a double-needle bed warp knitting machine with tongue needles and groove needles.
- the double-needle bed warp knitting machine includes a guide bar cradle upper swing transmission mechanism, a guide bar device, a loop forming device, and a transmission device.
- the guide bar cradle upper swing transmission mechanism is connected to the guide bar device, and the transmission device is used to drive the loop forming device, which is located below the guide bar device.
- the guide bar device includes ground guide bars, or it may include ground guide bars and jacquard guide bars. In other words, the guide bar device can be entirely composed of ground guide bars, or it can be a combination of ground guide bars and jacquard guide bars.
- the loop forming device includes a needle bed mechanism, a sinking mechanism, a grid-like loop release mechanism, and a needle core mechanism.
- the needle bed mechanism includes a front needle bed mechanism and a rear needle bed mechanism.
- the front needle bed mechanism includes a front needle bed base and a front needle rail.
- the front needle rail is located on the front needle bed base and has several front needle blocks.
- Each front needle block has several front knitting needles, which are either tongue needles or grooved needles.
- the rear needle bed mechanism includes a rear needle bed base and a rear needle rail.
- the rear needle rail is located on the rear needle bed base and has several rear needle blocks.
- Each rear needle block has several rear knitting needles, which are either tongue needles or grooved needles.
- the number of front knitting needles on each front needle block is fourteen, eighteen, twenty-two, twenty-four, twenty-six, or twenty-eight.
- the number of rear knitting needles on each rear needle block is also fourteen, eighteen, twenty-two, twenty-four, twenty-six, or twenty-eight.
- the knitting needles in the front or rear needle bed mechanism can also be a combination of tongue needles and grooved needles.
- the sinking mechanism includes a front sinking mechanism and a rear sinking mechanism.
- the front sinking mechanism is located outside the front needle bed mechanism, and the rear sinking mechanism is located outside the rear needle bed transmission mechanism.
- Both the front and rear sinking mechanisms are equipped with sinking plates. The function of the sinking plates is to press down the old coil when the needle rises, so that it does not rise with the needle.
- the grid-like loop release mechanism includes a front grid-like loop release mechanism and a rear grid-like loop release mechanism.
- the front grid-like loop release mechanism corresponds to the latch needle of the front knitting needle
- the rear grid-like loop release mechanism corresponds to the latch needle of the rear knitting needle.
- the grid-like loop release plate in the front and rear grid-like loop release mechanisms is used in conjunction with the latch needle.
- the grid-like loop release plate mainly serves to support the fabric, preventing the fabric from descending with the knitting needle when the latch needle descends to form a loop, so that the knitting needle can complete the looping and loop release; it also determines the left and right position of the knitting needle.
- the needle core mechanism includes a front needle core mechanism and a rear needle core mechanism.
- the front needle core mechanism corresponds to the grooved needle of the front knitting needle
- the rear needle core mechanism corresponds to the grooved needle of the rear knitting needle.
- the needle cores in the front and rear needle core mechanisms are matched with the grooved needles.
- the needle core is used to close the needle opening of the grooved needle.
- the transmission device includes a front needle bed transmission mechanism, a rear needle bed transmission mechanism, a sinker transmission mechanism, and a needle core transmission mechanism.
- the front needle bed transmission mechanism is driven by the front needle bed mechanism
- the rear needle bed transmission mechanism is driven by the rear needle bed mechanism, which is also driven by the rear needle bed cam.
- the sinker transmission mechanism includes a front sinker transmission mechanism and a rear sinker transmission mechanism.
- the front sinker transmission mechanism is driven by the front sinker cam
- the rear sinker transmission mechanism is driven by the rear sinker cam.
- the needle core transmission mechanism includes a front needle core transmission mechanism and a rear needle core transmission mechanism.
- the front needle core transmission mechanism is driven by the front needle core cam
- the rear needle core transmission mechanism is driven by the rear needle core cam.
- the equipment structure that needs to knit the pile layer 200 can be set as a groove needle, and the equipment structure that does not knit the pile layer 200 can be set as a latch needle.
- Existing double-needle bed warp knitting machine structures cannot freely knit fabrics with a pile layer 200. This is because once the latch needle closes during knitting, it cannot continue knitting.
- Existing warp knitting machine structures capable of knitting the pile layer 200 often have a pressing layer or are formed through auxiliary layer knitting, indirectly reducing the freedom of knitting fabrics, such as imposing certain restrictions on knitting position and thickness.
- using methods such as glue flocking to set the pile layer 200 results in poor fabric strength, easy detachment of the pile layer 200, and poor production efficiency.
- this embodiment provides a free-feel knitted mesh fabric woven with grooved needles.
- the fabric has a single-color plush pattern and consists of a plush layer 200 and a bottom layer.
- Jacquard comb 2 combs (free-style jacquard velvet flowers and plain weave);
- JK3 Warped P-DTY150D/48F semi-dull white low-elasticity micro-mesh non-twisted yarn, with 1536 yarns on the yarn frame. JK3 yarn is threaded on the machine in a 1-thread-1-hole manner, with a gear warp feed of 3000mm/lactate. It follows a variable chain weave structure of 1-0/1-1/0-1/1-1//. The JK3 polyester low-elasticity yarn content is approximately 17.045%.
- JK4 Warped P-DTY150D/48F semi-dull white low-elasticity micro-mesh non-twisted yarn, with 1536 yarns on the yarn frame. JK4 yarn is threaded on the machine in a 1-thread-1-hole manner, with a gear warp feed of 3000mm/lactate. It follows a variable chain weave structure of 1-0/1-1/0-1/1-1//. The JK4 polyester low-elasticity yarn content is approximately 17.045%.
- JK5 Warped P-DTY150D/48F semi-dull white low-elasticity micro-mesh non-twisted yarn, with 1536 yarns on the yarn frame. JK5 yarn is threaded on the machine in a 1-thread-1-air manner, with a gear warp feed of 3000mm/lactate. It follows a variable chain weave structure of 1-0/1-1/0-1/1-1//. The JK5 polyester low-elasticity yarn content is approximately 17.045%.
- JK6 Warped P-DTY150D/48F semi-dull white low-elasticity micro-mesh non-twisted yarn, with 1536 yarns on the yarn frame. JK6 yarn is threaded on the machine in a 1-thread-1-air manner, with a gear warp feed of 3000mm/lactate. It follows a variable chain weave structure of 1-0/1-1/0-1/1-1//. The JK6 polyester low-elasticity yarn content is approximately 17.045%.
- GB7 Warping P-FDY100D/48F semi-dull environmentally friendly yarn, 6 warp heads, 512 yarns per warp head.
- GB7 yarn is threaded on the machine in a full-thread manner.
- JK5 yarn has a gear feed rate of 2000m/lacquer on the machine.
- the warp weave is 1-1/1-0/1-1/1-2//.
- the polyester yarn content of GB7 is about 15.152%.
- GB8 Warped P-FDY100D/48F semi-dull environmentally friendly recycled yarn, 6 warp heads, 512 yarns per warp head.
- GB8 yarn is threaded on the machine in a full-thread manner, with a gear feed rate of 2200m/rube, and a variable warp plain weave of 0-1/2-2/3-2/2-2//.
- the polyester yarn content of GB8 is approximately 16.68%.
- this embodiment provides a free-feel knitted mesh fabric woven with grooved needles.
- the fabric has a multi-colored plush pattern and consists of a plush layer 200 and a bottom layer.
- Jacquard comb 2 combs (free-style jacquard velvet flowers and plain weave);
- JK3 Warped P-DTY150D/48F environmentally friendly CD bright low-elasticity micro-mesh non-twist (recycle) yarn, with 1536 yarns on the yarn frame. JK3 yarn is threaded on the machine in a 1-thread-1-air manner, with a gear warp feed of 3500mm/lactate. It follows a variable chain weave structure of 1-0/1-1/0-1/1-1//. The JK3 CD low-elasticity yarn content is approximately 18.166%.
- JK4 Warped P-DTY150D/48F environmentally friendly CD bright low-elasticity micro-mesh non-twisted (recycle) yarn, with 1536 yarns on the yarn frame. JK4 yarn is threaded on the machine in a 1-thread-1-air manner, with a gear warp feed of 3500mm/lactate. It follows a variable chain weave structure of 1-0/1-1/0-1/1-1//. The JK4 CD low-elasticity yarn content is approximately 18.166%.
- JK5 Warped N-DTY140D/48F nylon high-elasticity lightweight mesh non-twisted yarn, with 1536 yarns on the yarn frame. JK5 yarn is threaded on the machine in a 1-thread-1-air manner, with a gear warp feed of 3200mm/lactate. It follows a variable chain weave structure of 1-0/1-1/0-1/1-1//. The nylon yarn content of JK5 is approximately 16.609%.
- JK6 Warped N-DTY140D/48F nylon high-elasticity lightweight mesh non-twisted yarn, with 1536 yarns on the yarn frame. JK6 yarn is threaded on the machine in a 1-thread-1-air manner, with a gear warp feed of 3200mm/lactate. It follows a variable chain weave structure of 1-0/1-1/0-1/1-1//. The nylon yarn content of JK6 is approximately 16.609%.
- GB7 Warping P-FDY100D/48F environmentally friendly yarn, 6 warp heads, 512 yarns per warp head.
- GB7 yarn is threaded on the machine in a full-thread manner.
- JK5 yarn has a gear feed rate of 2200m/lacquer on the machine. It has a variable warp plain weave of 3-2/2-2/0-1/2-2//.
- the polyester yarn content of GB7 is about 15.225%.
- GB8 Warped P-FDY100D/48F environmentally friendly recycled yarn, 6 warp heads, 512 yarns per warp head.
- GB8 yarn is threaded on the machine in a full-thread manner, with a gear feed rate of 2200m/rubber, and a variable warp plain weave of 0-1/2-2/3-2/2-2//.
- the polyester yarn content of GB8 is approximately 15.225%.
- the aforementioned grooved needle free-feel knitted mesh can also be combined with a new type of double-needle bed jacquard knitted fabric, that is, a pile layer 200 is set on the new type of double-needle bed jacquard knitted fabric, as shown in Figure 10.
- the single layer of the novel double-needle bed jacquard knitted fabric in this application is a true single layer, not simply a change in the thickness of a double-layer structure to achieve a "single layer.”
- the knitting direction is not limited to horizontal or vertical, allowing for the creation of more patterns and designs, resulting in greater stylistic diversity in the knitted fabric, as shown in Figures 6 and 7.
- it enables free-feel design, allowing for the placement of a pile layer 200 of arbitrary thickness at any location on the fabric.
- the finished knitted fabric can independently knit single or double layer structures or pile layer 200 structures of arbitrary thickness at any location.
- the knitted fabric can simultaneously possess single or double layer structures and pile layer 200 structures.
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种新型双针床贾卡针织面料及其制备方法,涉及织物技术领域。新型双针床贾卡针织面料包括面层、底层、连接层、底单层和/或面单层,所述面层通过连接层与底层连接形成双层结构,组成所述面层、底层、连接层中的纱线仅在面层集中编织构成面单层,组成所述面层、底层、连接层中的纱线仅在底层集中编织构成底单层,所述双层结构、面单层和/或底单层位于同一块针织面料上,并组成完整针织面料结构,所述面单层和/或底单层在针织面料的任意局部区域。本发明中的新型双针床贾卡针织面料具体为单双层结合的针织面料,其编织结构实现了自由式单双层结构,面料结构能实现的结构样式性更多,同时编织制备时也节省了车间操作难度,间接提升了编织效率。
Description
本发明涉及织物技术领域,具体的是一种新型双针床贾卡针织面料及其制备方法。
随着运动面料的发展,轻、薄、强是纺织运动未来的重要发展趋势,然而全层的面料,虽然达到了轻、薄、但是强力严重不足,而且单层网布也失去网布面料应用的三明治Q弹性能。针对此网布纺织行业的人也做了各种研究;
方法一:目前市场上有使用盘头式的单双层结合,其局限性大,只能是竖方向和横方向,位置固定,大大局限了面料的设计;其次盘头式的单双层结合,虽然达到轻克重、也达到了局部的三明治Q弹,但是其增加了车间操作困难度,增加人力成本,生产周期长,严重浪费时间,有设计结构的创新,但是还不够;
方法二:利用纱架局部中间走DTY(涤纶)纱线,局部吃纱局部不吃纱线达到局部厚薄,表象是类似单双层网布,然而三明治双层位置中间是DTY纱线,单层部位只是中间镂空并没有达到真正意义上的的单层网布,其面料需要触摸才可以感知其厚薄度,没有达到物理结构的视觉效果,其面料后工艺易起泡异常,影响制鞋效果和生产。
本发明提供了一种新型双针床贾卡针织面料及其制备方法,其克服了背景技术中所描述的不足。
本发明解决其技术问题的所采用的技术方案是:
一种新型双针床贾卡针织面料,包括面层、底层、连接层、底单层和/或面单层,面层通过连接层与底层连接形成双层结构,组成面层、底层、连接层中的纱线仅在面层集中编织构成面单层,组成面层、底层、连接层中的纱线仅在底层集中编织构成底单层,双层结构、面单层和/或底单层位于同一块针织面料上,并组成完整针织面料结构,面单层和/或底单层在针织面料的任意局部区域。
一较佳技术方案:针织面料还包括镂空结构,双层结构通过脱层形成面层与底层之间镂空、不连接的镂空结构。
一较佳技术方案:面层和/或底层上设置提花结构。
一较佳技术方案:面层和/或底层上设置透气孔。
一较佳技术方案:双层结构通过编织不同结构或包含不同数量纱线的连接层改变针织面料局部的厚度。
一较佳技术方案:面层、连接层、底层中包含至少一种颜色或至少一种材质的纱线编织组成。面层、连接层、底层既可以通过单色纱线编织形成相应的面料结构,也可以通过多色纱线编织形成相应的面料结构;面层、连接层、底层即可通过一种材质的纱线编织形成相应的面料结构,也可以通过多种材质的纱线组合编织形成相应的面料结构,越复杂的面料结构需要越多数量的贾卡配合,通过更多针数(二针、三针、四针)提花,提高提花图案的样式性。
一较佳技术方案:新型双针床贾卡针织面料上的任意位置设置任意厚度的毛绒层。
一较佳技术方案:针织面料通过编织设备编织而成,编织设备上设置织针,织针包括针芯、针腹、针钩,针芯分离式设置在针腹,即分离式织针,织针上设置有针钩,针腹具体指织针整体的中段的区域。
一种新型双针床贾卡针织面料的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
双层结构编织,其中双层结构包括面层、连接层、底层,面层、连接层、底层均由纱线按相应编织动作编织形成;
底单层编织,双层结构编织后继续编织底单层,将组成面层、连接层、底层中纱线在编织双层结构后,继续在底层位置集中编织形成底单层;
底单层编织完成后选择继续双层结构编织。
一种新型双针床贾卡针织面料的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
双层结构编织,其中双层结构包括面层、连接层、底层,面层、连接层、底层均由纱线按相应编织动作编织形成;
面单层编织,双层结构编织后继续编织面单层,将组成面层、连接层、底层中纱线在编织双层结构后,继续在面层位置集中编织形成面单层;
面单层编织完成后选择继续双层结构编织。
一种新型双针床贾卡针织面料的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
双层结构编织,其中双层结构包括面层、连接层、底层,面层、连接层、底层均由纱线按相应编织动作编织形成;
底单层编织,双层结构编织后继续编织底单层,将组成面层、连接层、底层中纱线在编织双层结构后,继续在底层位置集中编织形成底单层;
底单层编织完成后继续编织双层结构;
面单层编织,双层结构编织后继续编织面单层,将组成面层、连接层、底层中纱线在编织双层结构后,继续在面层位置集中编织形成面单层;
面单层编织完成后选择继续双层结构编织。
一较佳技术方案:连接层至少由一把贾卡梳栉垫纱编织而成,该贾卡梳栉包括第一贾卡梳栉,其中,第一贾卡梳栉在前针床和后针床上垫纱编织形成第一编织区域,第一贾卡梳栉在前针床与后针床之间悬浮垫纱编织形成第二编织区域,第一编织区域的厚度大于该第二编织区域的厚度。
通过采用上述的技术方案,本发明的有益效果是:
1.本发明中的新型双针床贾卡针织面料编织结构实现了自由式单双层结构,面料结构能实现的结构样式性更多,同时编织制备时也节省了车间操作难度,间接提升了编织效率。
2.本发明中的针织面料可以在单双层结构基础上结合毛绒层结构,形成具有毛绒层的新型双针床贾卡针织面料。
下面结合附图和实施例对本发明作进一步说明。
图1为新型双针床贾卡针织面料上设置有面单层、底单层的结构示意图;
图2为实施例2中新型双针床贾卡针织面料的结构示意图;
图3为实施例2中另一种新型双针床贾卡针织面料的结构示意图;
图4为本申请编织设备应用的织针结构示意图;
图5为现有技术中织针的结构示意图;
图6为新型双针床贾卡针织面料一样式示意图;
图7为新型双针床贾卡针织面料另一样式示意图;
图8为实施例8编织形成的槽针自由绒感针织网布的结构示意图;
图9为实施例9编织形成的中槽针自由绒感针织网布的结构示意图;
图10为新型双针床贾卡针织面料上起毛设置毛绒层的针织面料结构示意图。
主要附图标记说明:
1、面层;2、连接层;3、底层;4、面单层;5、底单层;11、透气孔;12、镂空结构;
21、贾卡一;22、贾卡二;100、织针;101、针钩;102、针芯;200、毛绒层。
1、面层;2、连接层;3、底层;4、面单层;5、底单层;11、透气孔;12、镂空结构;
21、贾卡一;22、贾卡二;100、织针;101、针钩;102、针芯;200、毛绒层。
实施例1
如图1所示,一种新型双针床贾卡针织面料,包括面层1、底层3、连接层2、底单层5和/或面单层4,面层1通过连接层2与底层3连接形成双层结构,组成面层1、底层3、连接层2中的纱线仅在面层1集中编织构成面单层4,组成面层1、底层3、连接层2中的纱线仅在底层3集中编织构成底单层5,双层结构、面单层4和/或底单层5位于同一块针织面料上,并组成完整针织面料结构,面单层4和/或底单层5在针织面料的任意局部区域。面层1和底层3组成双层结构,而连接层2起到衔接的作用。针织面料通过编织设备编织而成,编织设备上设置织针100,织针100包括针芯102、针钩101、针腹,针芯102分离式设置在针腹,即分离式织针,织针100上设置有针钩101,针腹具体指织针整体的中段的区域。
如一块针织面料上设置由面层1、底层3、连接层2编织组成的双层结构,还设置单面层1,或还设置底面层1,或还设置单面层1和底面层1,单面层1、底面层1设置在整块针织面料的任意位置,并可以编织形成任意形状的图案。
织针100的具体结构参照图4,现有技术中的织针100结构参照图5,本申请中的针织面料不会因为闭针导致机台开机不了无法继续编织,且可以直接使用单丝或热塑性纱线织造,到达保留原传统三明的Q弹效果,又达到轻克重,(因为单丝和热塑性纱线比较DTY纱线轻质,又具有Q弹)达到双赢。
进一步的,面层1和/或底层3上设置提花结构,即设置提花图案,使得针织面料表面的图案更加多样化。
进一步的,面层1和/或底层3上设置透气孔11,在面层1、底层3上设置任意形状的透气孔11,透气孔11的形状如圆形、三角形、矩形等。
进一步的,双层结构通过编织不同结构或包含不同数量纱线的连接层2改变针织面料局部的厚度。
通过设置以上进一步中的结构,选择组合出具有相应结构的针织面料结构。
实施例2
如图2、3所示,本实施例提供了一种新型双针床贾卡针织面料,本实施例与实施1中的新型双针床贾卡针织面料在结构上的区别在于:
针织面料还包括镂空结构12,双层结构通过脱层形成面层1与底层3之间镂空、不连接的镂空结构12。
面层1、连接层2、底层3中包含至少一种颜色或至少一种材质的纱线编织组成。面层1、连接层2、底层3既可以通过单色纱线编织形成相应的面料结构,也可以通过多色纱线编织形成相应的面料结构;面层1、连接层2、底层3即可通过一种材质的纱线编织形成相应的面料结构,也可以通过多种材质的纱线组合编织形成相应的面料结构,越复杂的面料结构需要越多数量的贾卡配合,通过更多针数(二针、三针、四针)提花,提高提花图案的样式性。
如:连接层2为单材质时,则连接层2是通过单贾卡编织单材质或单色的连接层2结构;
再如:连接层2有两种结构,则连接层2分别通过两把贾卡(图中的贾卡一21、贾卡二22)配合编织,这两种结构的连接层2还可以是两种颜色;或采用更多数量的贾卡实现更多的样式结构,原则上使用更多数量的贾卡,编织设备能编织形成更复杂的结构。
实施例3
本实施例提供了一种新型双针床贾卡针织面料的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
双层结构编织,其中双层结构包括面层1、连接层2、底层3,面层1、连接层2、底层3均由纱线按相应编织动作编织形成;
底单层5编织,双层结构编织后继续编织底单层5,将组成面层1、连接层2、底层3中纱线在编织双层结构后,继续在底层3位置集中编织形成底单层5;
底单层5编织完成后选择继续双层结构编织。
实施例4
本实施例提供了一种新型双针床贾卡针织面料的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
双层结构编织,其中双层结构包括面层1、连接层2、底层3,面层1、连接层2、底层3均由纱线按相应编织动作编织形成;
面单层4编织,双层结构编织后继续编织面单层4,将组成面层1、连接层2、底层3中纱线在编织双层结构后,继续在面层1位置集中编织形成面单层4;
面单层4编织完成后选择继续双层结构编织。
实施例5
本实施例提供了一种新型双针床贾卡针织面料的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
双层结构编织,其中双层结构包括面层1、连接层2、底层3,面层1、连接层2、底层3均由纱线按相应编织动作编织形成;
底单层5编织,双层结构编织后继续编织底单层5,将组成面层1、连接层2、底层3中纱线在编织双层结构后,继续在底层3位置集中编织形成底单层5;
底单层5编织完成后继续编织双层结构;
面单层4编织,双层结构编织后继续编织面单层4,将组成面层1、连接层2、底层3中纱线在编织双层结构后,继续在面层1位置集中编织形成面单层4;
面单层4编织完成后选择继续双层结构编织。
进一步的,连接层2至少由一把贾卡梳栉垫纱编织而成,该贾卡梳栉包括第一贾卡梳栉,其中,第一贾卡梳栉在前针床和后针床上垫纱编织形成第一编织区域,第一贾卡梳栉在前针床与后针床之间悬浮垫纱编织形成第二编织区域,第一编织区域的厚度大于该第二编织区域的厚度。
实施例6
本实施例提供了一种新型双针床贾卡针织面料的制备方法,具体是双贾卡编织的面料,单双层结合针织面料的按三层网布纱层组成分为面层1提花设计部分、底层设计部分;
面层1提花设计部分:
贾卡一提花设计梳:2把半机号纱架梳。贾卡一,可以根据需要在面部织造,形成双面三明治网布,在底部织造,形成单层结构;
JK3:整经P-DTY150D/48F半光环保白低弹微网纱线,纱架1536根纱,JK3纱线在机台的穿纱以1穿1空的方式,齿轮送经量5733m/腊克,走变化经平组织1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1//,JK3涤纶环保低弹轻网纱线含量占31.035%左右;
JK4:整经P-DTY150D/48F半光环保白低弹微网纱线,纱架1536根纱,JK4纱线在机台的穿纱以1穿1空的方式,齿轮送经量5733m/腊克,走变化经平组织1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1//,JK4涤纶环保低弹轻网纱线含量占31.035%左右;
底层设计部分:
贾卡二网孔梳:2梳(自由式设计;可定制化,可以局部位置设计网孔和平纹);
JK4:整经SCY-40D/100D/48F涤纶环保白低弹氨纶单包纱线,6个盘头每个盘头256根纱,JK4纱线在机台的穿纱以1穿1空的方式,齿轮送经量2800mm/腊克,走变化经平组织1-1/1-0/1-1/1-2//,JK4包芯纱线含量占11.116%左右;
JK5:整经SCY-40D/100D/48F涤纶环保白低弹氨纶单包纱线,6个盘头每个盘头256根纱,JK5纱线在机台的穿纱以1穿1空的方式,齿轮送经量2800mm/腊克,走变化经平组织1-1/1-0/1-1/1-2//,JK5包芯纱线含量占11.116%左右;
GB6:整经P-DTY150D/48F半光低弹轻网纱线,6个盘头每个盘头512根纱,GB6纱线在机台的穿纱以满穿的方式,齿轮送经量1450m/腊克,走编链组织1-1/0-1/1-1/1-0//,GB6低弹轻网纱线含量占15.699%左右;
底层地梳GB纱1-2把梳栉:(底部不开网孔设计)也可以2梳根据设计需求空穿工艺设计形成规律网孔。
实施例7
本实施例提供了一种单双层结合的针织面料,具体是三贾卡编织的面料,单双层结合针织面料的按三层网布纱层组成分:面层1提花设计部分、中间层设计部分、底层设计部分;
面层1提花设计部分:
贾卡一提花设计梳:2把半机号纱架梳。贾卡一,可以根据需要在面部织造,形成双面三明治网布,或在底部织造,形成单层结构;
JK3:整经P-DTY100D/48F CD有光低弹轻网纱线,纱架1536根纱,JK3纱线在机台的穿纱以1穿1空的方式,齿轮送经量2500m/腊克,走变化经平组织1-0/1-1/1-2/1-1//,JK3 CD有光低弹轻网纱线含量占12.422%左右;
JK4:整经P-DTY100D/48F CD有光低弹轻网纱线,纱架1536根纱,JK4纱线在机台的穿纱以1穿1空的方式,齿轮送经量2500m/腊克,走变化经平组织1-0/1-1/1-2/1-1//,JK4 CD有光低弹轻网纱线含量占12.422%左右;
中间层设计部分:
贾卡二提花设计梳:2把半机号纱架梳。贾卡二,可以根据需要在面部织造,形成双面镂空三明治网布,或在底部织造,形成单层结构,也可以上下面底提花形成具有不同高度的提花三明治网布,(通过贾卡二,三针/4针/二针的方式到达不同高度,也可以同步不同纱线D数和机台开档调整部分三明治高度);
JK5:整经P-DTY120D/48F涤纶环保低弹轻网纱线,纱架1536根纱,JK5纱线在机台的穿纱以1穿1空的方式,齿轮送经量3100m/腊克,走变化经平组织0-1/1-0/1-2/2-1//,JK5涤纶环保低弹轻网纱线含量占18.946%左右;
JK6:整经P-DTY120D/48F涤纶环保低弹轻网纱线,纱架1536根纱,JK5纱线在机台的穿纱以1穿1空的方式,齿轮送经量3100m/腊克,走变化经平组织0-1/1-0/1-2/2-1//,JK5涤纶环保低弹轻网纱线含量占18.946%左右;
注意:中间部分设计在本实用新型主要是起到不同三明治厚度的关系,根据需要再更换不同纱线,例如:DTY纱线具有海绵感三明治效果厚度,或使用热塑性纱线、单丝纱线,到达弹簧式感三明治效果厚度;
底层设计部分:
贾卡三网孔梳:2梳(自由式设计。可定制化,可以局部位置设计网孔和平纹);
JK7:整经P-DTY100D/72F半光环保低弹轻网(recycle)纱线,6个盘头每个盘头256根纱,JK7纱线在机台的穿纱以1穿1空的方式,齿轮送经量2550mm/腊克,走变化经平组织1-1/0-1//1-1/2-1//,JK7涤纶环保纱线含量占12.670%左右;
JK8:整经P-DTY100D/72F半光环保低弹轻网(recycle)纱线,6个盘头每个盘头256根纱,JK8纱线在机台的穿纱以1穿1空的方式,齿轮送经量2550mm/腊克,走变化经平组织1-1/0-1//1-1/2-1//,JK8涤纶环保纱线含量占12.670%左右;
GB9:整经P-DTY75D/36F半光环保低弹轻网(recycle)纱线,6个盘头每个盘头512根纱,GB9纱线在机台的穿纱以满穿的方式,齿轮送经量1600m/腊克,走编链组织1-1/1-0/0-1/1-1//,GB9低弹轻网纱线含量占11.925%左右;
底层地梳GB纱1-2把梳栉:(底部不开网孔设计)也可以2梳根据设计需求空穿工艺设计形成规律网孔。
通过三贾卡可以设计达到网布3色或者4色提花,或者丰富中间层毛高效果。
现有技术中单双层面料制备时,只能通过穿纱固定,竖方向或改变排版横方向,这在编织时对机台操作提出一定要求,增加了人工操作的时间,且面料结构较为局限,只能竖、或者横,如面料上设置呈矩形形状(受竖、横限制)的单层结构,通过控制穿纱的多少,达到调节双层、单层宽度的目的,且机上只能经向;
相较现有技术,本实用新型中的单双层面料上可以设置为非矩形(不受竖、横限制)的单层结构,如圆形或任意编织方向组成的图形;
编织设备通常通过一个由上、下针床板和上、下针板组成的开放式针槽上下循环运转。纱线先经过输纱器送入针槽内,引针器将纱线拾取挂在针上,随着针床往返移动,在针板上完成各种花型的编织。其中,织针100包括针芯102、针钩101、针腹,针芯102分离式设置在针腹,不受因闭针导致机台无法开机的问题。
以背景技术中的方法2为例,其采用中间不吃纱,降低双层面料的厚度,将这种变薄的双层定义为单层,而实质其本质还是双层,且这部分双层还是分离开的,用手戳动这部分,两层还能错开。整块面料其都是双层的,即便部分位置很薄,以为是单层,其实质还是有面层1和底层3。并不能是真正意义上的单层(只编织面层1,不编织底层3;或只编织底层3,不编织面层1)。
传统织针100的针芯102闭合,在编织设备使用此织针100编织时,编织双层区域后编织单层后,织针100会闭合,一但闭合后,无法打开,进而无法持续实现单双层面料的编织。织针100的编织原理:织针100在编织时,将纱线垫在针钩101内,机台下降的时候把向前编织好的旧的线圈脱出来,再复位,针芯102开闭、开闭重复进行,不断形成新线圈、旧线圈,进而完成编织动作。
传统织针100在编织面料时,面料在开闭、开闭编织双层结构后,编织单面时,如果某面不编织,针芯102可能有两种情况:全开或全闭状态,一但闭合,再也开不起来,因为某面不编织,没有纱线进行垫纱。
本申请中织针100采用分离式结构,不依靠旧的线圈和新的线圈相互配合来打开这个针芯102,不再依靠垫纱、不垫纱来决定针芯102开不开口,依托设备主动控制针芯102的开闭实现。
上述实施例中的新型双针床贾卡针织面料可采用具有舌针和槽针的双针床经编机进行编织,双针床经编机包括梳栉摇架上摆传动机构、梳栉装置、成圈装置和传动装置,梳栉摇架上摆传动机构与梳栉装置传动连接,传动装置用于驱动成圈装置,成圈装置设于梳栉装置的下方;梳栉装置包括地梳梳栉,也可以包括地梳梳栉、贾卡梳栉,换言之,梳栉装置可以全部为地梳梳栉,也可以为地梳梳栉与贾卡梳栉相结合;成圈装置包括针床机构、沉降机构、栅状脱圈机构和针芯机构。
针床机构包括前针床机构、后针床机构,前针床机构包括前针床座和前针轨,前针轨设于前针床座上,前针轨上设有若干个前针块,前针块上设有若干个前编织针,前编织针为舌针或者槽针中的一种;后针床机构包括后针床座和后针轨,后针轨设于后针床座上,后针轨上设有若干个后针块,后针块上设有若干个后编织针,后编织针为舌针或者槽针中的一种。每个前针块上的前编织针的数量为十四针、十八针、二十二针、二十四针、二十六针或者二十八针,每个后针块上的后编织针的数量为十四针、十八针、二十二针、二十四针、二十六针或者二十八针。当然,前针床机构或后针床机构中的编织针也可以是舌针、槽针的组合。
沉降机构包括前沉降机构和后沉降机构,前沉降机构设于前针床机构的外侧,后沉降机构设于后针床传动机构的外侧,其中前、后沉降机构均分别设有沉降片,沉降片的作用是:在针上升时,压住旧线圈使之不与针一起上升。
栅状脱圈机构包括前栅状脱圈机构和后栅状脱圈机构,前栅状脱圈机构与前编织针的舌针相对应,后栅状脱圈机构与后编织针的舌针相对应,其中前、后栅状脱圈机构中的栅状脱圈板是与舌针成套使用的,栅状脱圈板主要用作顶布作用,在舌针下降成圈时,不使织物与织针一起下降,以使织针完成套圈与脱圈;确定织针的左右位置的作用。
针芯机构包括前针芯机构和后针芯机构,前针芯机构与前编织针的槽针相对应,后针芯机构与后编织针的槽针相对应,前、后针芯机构中的针芯是与槽针相互配套的,其中针芯是用于关闭槽针的针口的。
传动装置包括前针床传动机构、后针床传动机构、沉降传动机构和针芯传动机构,前针床传动机构与前针床机构传动连接,其中前针床传动机构由前针床凸轮带动,后针床传动机构与后针床机构传动连接,其中后针床传动机构由后针床凸轮带动;沉降传动机构包括前沉降传动机构和后沉降传动机构,前沉降传动机构与前沉降机构传动连接,其中前沉降传动机构由前沉降凸轮带动,后沉降传动机构与后沉降机构传动连接,其中后沉降传动机构由后沉降凸轮带动;针芯传动机构包括前针芯传动机构和后针芯传动机构,前针芯传动机构与前针芯机构传动连接,其中前针芯传动机构由前针芯凸轮带动,后针芯传动机构与后针芯机构传动连接,其中后针芯传动机构由后针芯凸轮带动。
以具有舌针和槽针的双针床经编机编织具有毛绒层200的针织面料为例,需要编织毛绒层200的设备结构可设置为槽针,不编织毛绒层200的设备结构可设置为舌针。现有技术中的双针床经编机结构并不能自由编织具有毛绒层200的针织面料,这是由于舌针参与编织时一但闭针,无法再继续编织;现有技术中能编织毛绒层200的经编机结构多设置压纱层,或通过辅助层编织形成,间接降低了针织面料编织的自由度,如对编织位置、编织厚度产生一定限制;再如:采用胶水植绒等方式设置毛绒层200,针织面料强度欠佳,毛绒层200容易脱离,制备效率偏差。
实施例8
如图8所示,本实施例提供了一种由槽针编织的自由绒感针织网布,样式上为单色绒毛,纱层组成分毛绒层200、底层。
纱架一贾卡提花梳:2梳(自由式提花绒花和织造平纹);
JK3:整经P-DTY150D/48F半光白低弹微网无扭纱线,纱架1536根纱,JK3纱线在机台的穿纱以1穿1空的方式,齿轮送经量3000mm/腊克,走变化编链组织1-0/1-1/0-1/1-1//,JK3涤纶低弹纱线含量占17.045%左右;
JK4:整经P-DTY150D/48F半光白低弹微网无扭纱线,纱架1536根纱,JK4纱线在机台的穿纱以1穿1空的方式,齿轮送经量3000mm/腊克,走变化编链组织1-0/1-1/0-1/1-1//,JK4涤纶低弹纱线含量占17.045%左右;
纱架二贾卡提花梳:2梳(自由式提花绒花和织造平纹);
JK5:整经P-DTY150D/48F半光白低弹微网无扭纱线,纱架1536根纱,JK5纱线在机台的穿纱以1穿1空的方式,齿轮送经量3000mm/腊克,走变化编链组织1-0/1-1/0-1/1-1//,JK5涤纶低弹纱线含量占17.045%左右;
JK6:整经P-DTY150D/48F半光白低弹微网无扭纱线,纱架1536根纱,JK6纱线在机台的穿纱以1穿1空的方式,齿轮送经量3000mm/腊克,走变化编链组织1-0/1-1/0-1/1-1//,JK6涤纶低弹纱线含量占17.045%左右;
底层:1-2梳;
GB7:整经P-FDY100D/48F半光环保纱线,6个盘头每个盘头512根纱,GB7纱线在机台的穿纱以满穿的方式,JK5纱线在机台的齿轮送经量2000m/腊克,走经平组织1-1/1-0/1-1/1-2//,GB7涤纶纱线含量占15.152%左右;
GB8:整经P-FDY100D/48F半光环保丝(recycle)纱线,6个盘头每个盘头512根纱,GB8纱线在机台的穿纱以满穿的方式,齿轮送经量2200m/腊克,走变化经平组织0-1/2-2/3-2/2-2//,GB8涤纶纱线含量占16.68%左右。
实施例9
如图9所示,本实施例提供了一种由槽针编织的自由绒感针织网布,样式上为多色绒毛,纱层组成分毛绒层200、底层。
纱架一贾卡提花梳:2梳(自由式提花绒花和织造平纹);
JK3:整经P-DTY150D/48F环保CD有光低弹微网无扭(recycle)纱线,纱架1536根纱,JK3纱线在机台的穿纱以1穿1空的方式,齿轮送经量3500mm/腊克,走变化编链组织1-0/1-1/0-1/1-1//,JK3 CD低弹纱线含量占18.166%左右;
JK4:整经P-DTY150D/48F环保CD有光低弹微网无扭(recycle)纱线,纱架1536根纱,JK4纱线在机台的穿纱以1穿1空的方式,齿轮送经量3500mm/腊克,走变化编链组织1-0/1-1/0-1/1-1//,JK4 CD低弹纱线含量占18.166%左右;
纱架二贾卡提花梳:2梳(自由式提花绒花和织造平纹);
JK5:整经N-DTY140D/48F锦纶高弹轻网无扭无扭纱线,纱架1536根纱,JK5纱线在机台的穿纱以1穿1空的方式,齿轮送经量3200mm/腊克,走变化编链组织1-0/1-1/0-1/1-1//,JK5锦纶纱线含量占16.609%左右;
JK6:整经N-DTY140D/48F锦纶高弹轻网无扭无扭纱线,纱架1536根纱,JK6纱线在机台的穿纱以1穿1空的方式,齿轮送经量3200mm/腊克,走变化编链组织1-0/1-1/0-1/1-1//,JK6锦纶纱线含量占16.609%左右;
底层:1-2梳;
GB7:整经P-FDY100D/48F环保纱线,6个盘头每个盘头512根纱,GB7纱线在机台的穿纱以满穿的方式,JK5纱线在机台的齿轮送经量2200m/腊克,走变化经平组织3-2/2-2/0-1/2-2//,GB7涤纶纱线含量占15.225%左右;
GB8:整经P-FDY100D/48F环保丝(recycle)纱线,6个盘头每个盘头512根纱,GB8纱线在机台的穿纱以满穿的方式,齿轮送经量2200m/腊克,走变化经平组织0-1/2-2/3-2/2-2//,GB8涤纶纱线含量占15.225%左右。
上述中的槽针自由绒感针织网布,也可结合在新型双针床贾卡针织面料上,即在新型双针床贾卡针织面料上起毛设置毛绒层200,如图10所示。
基于以上内容,本申请中新型双针床贾卡针织面料的单层是真正意义上的单层,并不是改变双层结构的厚度实现“单层”,同时,编织的方向不局限于横、竖,进而能编织出更多样式图案,针织面料的样式性更多样,如图6、图7所示。同时,也实现面料自由绒感设计,在面料的任意位置设置任意厚度的毛绒层200;编织成品的针织面料可以在任意位置独立编织任意厚度的单双层结构或毛绒层200结构,更进一步的,针织面料还可以同时具有单双层结构、毛绒层200结构。
以上所述,仅为本发明较佳实施例而已,故不能依此限定本发明实施的范围,即依本发明专利范围及说明书内容所作的等效变化与修饰,皆应仍属本发明涵盖的范围内。
Claims (11)
- 一种新型双针床贾卡针织面料,其特征在于,包括面层、底层、连接层、底单层和/或面单层,所述面层通过连接层与底层连接形成双层结构,组成所述面层、底层、连接层中的纱线仅在面层集中编织构成面单层,组成所述面层、底层、连接层中的纱线仅在底层集中编织构成底单层,所述双层结构、面单层和/或底单层位于同一块针织面料上,并组成完整针织面料结构,所述面单层和/或底单层在针织面料的任意局部区域。
- 根据权利要求1所述的新型双针床贾卡针织面料,其特征在于,所述针织面料还包括镂空结构,所述双层结构通过脱层形成面层与底层之间镂空、不连接的镂空结构。
- 根据权利要求1所述的新型双针床贾卡针织面料,其特征在于,所述面层和/或底层上设置提花结构。
- 根据权利要求1所述的新型双针床贾卡针织面料,其特征在于,所述面层和/或底层上设置透气孔。
- 根据权利要求1所述的新型双针床贾卡针织面料,其特征在于,所述双层结构通过编织不同结构或包含不同数量纱线的连接层改变针织面料局部的厚度。
- 根据权利要求1所述的新型双针床贾卡针织面料,其特征在于,所述面层、连接层、底层中包含至少一种颜色或至少一种材质的纱线编织组成。
- 根据权利要求1所述的新型双针床贾卡针织面料,其特征在于,所述新型双针床贾卡针织面料上的任意位置设置任意厚度的毛绒层。
- 根据权利要求1-7任意一项所述的新型双针床贾卡针织面料,其特征在于,所述针织面料通过编织设备编织而成,所述编织设备上设置织针,所述织针包括针芯、针腹,所述针芯分离式设置在针腹。
- 一种新型双针床贾卡针织面料的制备方法,所述制备方法编织制得如权利要求8中所述的新型双针床贾卡针织面料,其特征在于,包括以下步骤:双层结构编织,其中双层结构包括面层、连接层、底层,所述面层、连接层、底层均由纱线按相应编织动作编织形成;底单层编织,双层结构编织后继续编织底单层,将组成所述面层、连接层、底层中纱线在编织双层结构后,继续在底层位置集中编织形成底单层;底单层编织完成后选择继续双层结构编织。
- 一种新型双针床贾卡针织面料的制备方法,所述制备方法编织制得如权利要求8中所述的新型双针床贾卡针织面料,其特征在于,包括以下步骤:双层结构编织,其中双层结构包括面层、连接层、底层,所述面层、连接层、底层均由纱线按相应编织动作编织形成;面单层编织,双层结构编织后继续编织面单层,将组成所述面层、连接层、底层中纱线在编织双层结构后,继续在面层位置集中编织形成面单层;面单层编织完成后选择继续双层结构编织。
- 一种新型双针床贾卡针织面料的制备方法,所述制备方法编织制得如权利要求8中所述的新型双针床贾卡针织面料,其特征在于,包括以下步骤:双层结构编织,其中双层结构包括面层、连接层、底层,所述面层、连接层、底层均由纱线按相应编织动作编织形成;底单层编织,双层结构编织后继续编织底单层,将组成所述面层、连接层、底层中纱线在编织双层结构后,继续在底层位置集中编织形成底单层;底单层编织完成后继续编织双层结构;面单层编织,双层结构编织后继续编织面单层,将组成所述面层、连接层、底层中纱线在编织双层结构后,继续在面层位置集中编织形成面单层;面单层编织完成后选择继续双层结构编织。
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