WO2025212337A1 - Moisturizing mousse personal care products - Google Patents

Moisturizing mousse personal care products

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Publication number
WO2025212337A1
WO2025212337A1 PCT/US2025/021528 US2025021528W WO2025212337A1 WO 2025212337 A1 WO2025212337 A1 WO 2025212337A1 US 2025021528 W US2025021528 W US 2025021528W WO 2025212337 A1 WO2025212337 A1 WO 2025212337A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
topical formulation
formulation
starch
oil
carrageenan
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
PCT/US2025/021528
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Pauline DARCEL
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Cargill Inc
Original Assignee
Cargill Inc
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Cargill Inc filed Critical Cargill Inc
Publication of WO2025212337A1 publication Critical patent/WO2025212337A1/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046Aerosols; Foams
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/342Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • Starch is a polymeric carbohydrate consisting of a large number of glucose units joined by glycosidic bonds. This polysaccharide is produced by most green plants as energy storage. It is the most common carbohydrate in human diets and is contained in large amounts in staple foods. Starches useful in the present disclosure can come from any plant source including but not limited to: potatoes, wheat, maize (com), rice, tapioca, quinoa, cassava, and the like. Pure starch is a white, tasteless, and odorless powder that is insoluble in cold water or alcohol. It consists of two types of molecules: the linear and helical amylose and the branched amylopectin.
  • Scleroglucan may be in the form of native scleroglucan or hydrolyzed scleroglucan.
  • the molecular weight of the scleroglucan may be between 50,000 and 6,000,000 Daltons.
  • the molecular weight of the scleroglucan may be between 1,500,000 and 6,000,000 Daltons.
  • the molecular weight may be between 50,000 and 100,000 Dalton.
  • All the gelling types of carrageenan which include the kappa type (theoretically having 1 sulphate group per repeating unit; the most naturally abundant type of carrageenan molecule) and the iota type (theoretically having 2 sulphate groups per repeating unit; the least naturally abundant type of carrageenan molecule) all contain a 3,6-anhydro bridge on the B unit which forces the sugar to flip from a 4-C-l conformation to a l-C-4 conformation and can then form cross-link networks and gels.
  • carrageenans are commercially available from a variety of commercial producers.
  • the carrageenans utilized in the present disclosure are commercially available from Cargill, Incorporated under the trade designations (VPC 508 iota type). Similar to any natural product, carrageenan is a natural product isolated from cultivated or harvest seaweed, the exact content of any carrageenan extract will vary slightly depending on time of harvest or season. Table 1. Compositions of commercially available iota type carrageenans from Cargill, Incorporated
  • the present invention is the use of carrageenan mixtures disclosed herein in various personal care products.
  • the personal care composition may be prepared by creating an aqueous phase of predominately water and adding the texturizing system with mixing. The mixing is often done at elevated temperature (approximately 75°C) to facilitate complete incorporation.
  • elevated temperature approximately 75°C
  • the type of mixing is not critical and typical mixing equipment used in the art may be employed with the present compositions. In order facilitate quicker and more efficient mixing, medium or high shear equipment is desirable.
  • the texturizing system may be added as a premix or as individual components. Additional ingredients and emollients are then added to the formulation and pH adjusted as desired. The mixture is cooled with or without stirring to yield a complete matrix. This matrix is then allowed to rest for a period of time from 2-24 hours. The final composition is then prepared by mixing specifically to incorporate air into the matrix. This mixing can be done by any applicable method known in the art for preparing mousse like textures. For example, a planetary or commercial mixer utilized to make whipped creams, frostings, and the like.
  • the personal care composition my contain other active or inactive ingredients, humectants, or preservatives or the like. Active ingredients are those having a physiological effect on the skin or hair.
  • the composition may be an emulsion containing emollients, colorants, active ingredients, and/or other texturizers. [0040] Typically, high shear mixing is avoided after the final aeration step.
  • the amount of the aqueous phase in the topical formulation may be between 50 wt% to 99.5 wt%. In some aspects, the amount of the aqueous phase in the topical formulation is greater than 70 wt%.
  • the aqueous phase may optionally contain other soluble components such as an alcohol or polyol. In some aspects, the aqueous phase may contain a humectant such as an alcohol or glycerol.
  • the personal care formulation may be an emulsion.
  • An emulsion may be defined as a mixture containing two immiscible liquids, in which one liquid is dispersed as droplets or globules throughout the other. The dispersed liquid is called the dispersed phase, while the other liquid is called the continuous phase.
  • the oil is the dispersed phase or oil phase
  • water is the continuous phase or aqueous phase.
  • the topical formulation may also contain an oil phase dispersed in the aqueous phase.
  • the term “dispersion” refers to an oil phase forming droplets inside the aqueous phase.
  • the droplets may have any sizes and shapes.
  • the droplets are homogeneously distributed throughout the aqueous phase.
  • the nature of the oil phase of the emulsion is not critical.
  • the oil phase may thus consist of an emollient component of any fatty substance conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields; in particular the emollient component may comprise at least one oil, i.e., any fatty substance that is in substantially or completely liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) or elevated temperate of (40-70°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the emollient component may comprise at least one oil, i.e., any fatty substance that is in substantially or completely liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) or elevated temperate of (40-70°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the preferred emollient component comprises at least one oil which can be a hydrocarbon-based oil, i.e., an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals; a silicone oil, i.e., an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and preferably at least one Si-0 group; a fluoro oil, i.e., an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom; a non-fluoro oil, or a mixture thereof.
  • a hydrocarbon-based oil i.e., an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals
  • a silicone oil i.e., an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and preferably at least one Si-0 group
  • a fluoro oil i.e., an oil compris
  • the hydrocarbon-based oils may be of animal origin or of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides or esters of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, examples include, wax esters (jojoba seed oil), coconut oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil; maize oil; soybean oil; cucumber oil; grape seed oil; sesame seed oil; hazelnut oil; apricot oil; macadamia oil; arara oil; castor oil; cocoa butter; almond oil; avocado oil; babassu oil; caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel; Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed oil sold under the tradename Jojoba Oil Golden by Desert Whale; Beta-carotene sold under the tradename Betatene 30% OLV by Cognis (BASF); Rosa Canina Fruit Oil sold under
  • the hydrocarbon-based oils may be linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin.
  • the hydrocarbon-based oils may be synthetic ethers; synthetic esters; synthetic esters (synthetic esters may be completely or partially plant based), fatty alcohols, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms; C12-C22 higher fatty acids; or mixtures thereof.
  • the emollient comprises a member selected from the group consisting of a triglyceride vegetable based oil, a wax ester, a synthetic ester, or mixtures thereof. [0050] In some aspects, the emollient comprises a triglyceride plant based oil, a synthetic ester, or mixtures thereof.
  • Emulsions are stabilized by use of emulsifiers.
  • Emulsifiers are well known in the art of personal care formulations.
  • An emulsifier is a substance that stabilizes an emulsion by reducing the oil-water interfacial tension.
  • Emulsifiers are typically amphiphilic, meaning they have a polar or hydrophilic (i.e., water-soluble) part and a non-polar (i.e., hydrophobic or lipophilic) part.
  • Emulsifiers that are more soluble in water (and, conversely, less soluble in oil) will generally form oil-in-water emulsions.
  • Emulsifiers utilized in personal care applications are well known to the skilled applications scientist in personal care industry. Any emulsifier or mixture of emulsifiers that result in the particle size and/or particle size distribution mentioned herein may be employed to manufacture the emulsifier system for the compositions of the present disclosure.
  • the formulation will also comprise an emulsifier system which may be a single emulsifier or mixture of emulsifiers.
  • the emulsifier system comprises a glycerol stearate.
  • the emulsifier system comprises one or more emulsifiers selected from the group consisting of polyglycerol-3-stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, and cetearyl alcohol.
  • the emulsifier system comprises a mixture of poly glycerol-3 -stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, and cetearyl alcohol.
  • the formulation comprises l%-3% of the emulsifier system.
  • “Personal care” means and comprises any cosmetic, hygienic, toiletry and topical care products including, without limitation, leave-on products (i.e., products that are left on keratinous substrates after application); rinse-off products (i.e., products that are washed or rinsed from keratinous substrates during or within a few minutes of application); shampoos; hair curling and hair straightening products; hair style maintaining and hair conditioning products; lotions and creams for nails, hands, feet, face, scalp and/or body; hair dye; face and body makeup; nail care products; astringents; deodorants; antiperspirants; anti-acne; antiaging; depilatories; colognes and perfumes; skin protective creams and lotions (such as sunscreens); skin and body cleansers; skin conditioners; skin toners; skin firming compositions; skin tanning and lightening compositions; liquid soaps; bar soaps; bath products; shaving products; and oral hygiene products (such as toothpastes,
  • formulations prepared using the ingredients of the present invention have a good spreadability with a light pleasant residual feeling on the skin.
  • the use of the ingredients of the present invention improves texture and body of personal care products. This texture feels pleasant to touch and to apply. Furthermore, the consistency is such that good product pick-up may be achieved. Good product pick-up means that sufficient product (i.e., not too much, and not too little) can be collected on the user’s finger.
  • Personal care products used for tightening the skin can be applied by spreading the product onto the skin with the hand or by use of a brush, swab, cotton pads (rounds or squares), or a cloth.
  • the frequency of use can be determined by the user and application could be daily or multiple times per day.
  • phase D is added and mixed until homogeneous. Water losses were compensated for, if needed, and the pH adjusted to approximately 5.5 with phase E. After resting for 24 hours at room temperature the formulation was mixed with a planetary mixer (Verna mixer SM7, whisk head, speed 10, 15min).
  • the stability of the formulations described herein is an aspect of the invention. Stability can be tested at room temperature, at elevated temperature, and through freeze and thaw cycles. Stability is evaluated visually, by measuring volume loss, and by observing any change in density of the personal care formulation over time. The formulation fails if the phases separate or begin to separate. Major pooling of oil or water droplets on the surface or a significant change in the visual color or texture of the samples would also indicate failure of the formulation. In addition, viscosity could be rechecked and significant decrease (>20%) would indicate failure of the formulation. Significant reduction in the volume or density of the formulation is also an indication of loss of stability. [0066] In some aspects the formulation, retains greater than 80%, or 90% of its volume after 3 freeze thaw cycles of 8 hours at -8°C and 14 hours at room temperature.
  • the formulation shows less than a 10% increase in density after 3 freeze thaw cycles.
  • One freeze thaw cycle includes a container containing sample being stored for 8 hours at -8°C and the stored for 14 hours at room temperature. This is repeated twice more to complete the 3 cycle test. After 14 hours at room temperature the volume, density, viscosity, and visual observation of the sample can be determined to assess stability.
  • Examplel have surprising stability stability, with little or no breakdown or separation between phases over an extended period of time (e.g., 4, 8, or 12 weeks) when measured at room temperature and at 45°C. Therefore, it may be used to make products (e.g., topical formulations) requiring a long shelf life.
  • the formulation of Examplel little or no loss of volume and little or no increase in density after competing a 3 cycle freeze thaw test as described above.
  • Example 1 Three samples of Example 1 were added to a tarred 17ml containers in triplicate and leveled off to completely fill the containers. The density was determined to be 0.66g/ml, 0.65g/ml, and 0.68g/ml for the three samples. In some aspects, the formulations has a maximum density of 0.8g/ml, 0.75g/ml, or 0.7 g/ml.

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Abstract

The present disclosure relates to a topical formulation with a mousse like texture comprising at least 70% water; 2%-5% of a texturizing system wherein the texturizing system comprises a combination of scleroglucan, iota type carrageenan, and hydroxypropyl starch; an emulsifier system; and 10-20% of an emollient component wherein the formulation is stable through 3 three freeze thaw cycles. In some aspects, the emollient comprises a triglyceride plant-based oil, a synthetic ester, or mixtures thereof.

Description

MOISTURIZING MOUSSE PERSONAL CARE PRODUCTS
CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS
[0001] This application claims the benefit of U.S. Provisional Application No. 63/573,544, filed April 3, 2024, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.
FIELD OF INVENTION
[0002] The present invention relates to the production of personal care products that have unique and highly stable desirable mousse like texture, density, and viscosity. These personal care products contain a specific mixture of components to yield this unique stability in a low-density formulation.
BACKGROUND
[0003] Consumers are continually seeking novel and exciting experiences when utilizing cosmetic and personal care products. These products are both intended to have functional benefit such as moisturizing or highlighting areas of the skin as well and creating a pleasant experience for the user. For example, the texture, pick up, emulsion break, and greasiness are all important aspects of how a consumer experiences a product. Creating a light non-greasy experience with a moisturizing cream is an extreme technical challenge, predominately because low density foam like compositions are not stable over time. This fact has limited these types of products to pressurized packaging where the user creates the foam as they dispense the personal care product. This requirement increases cost and limits the way in which consumers can use and experience this type of product.
[0004] The present disclosure descnbes the unprecedented preparation of low-density personal care products with a mousse like texture that are stable over time and through multiple freeze thaw cycles as well as stable during transport. Thus, allowing for the preparation of products that may be manufactured and shipped to consumers for use in non-pressurized packing.
SUMMARY OF INVENTION
[0005] The present disclosure relates to surprising discovery that specific texturizing systems can create a unique mousse like texture that is stable during shipment or through multiple freeze thaw cycles. [0006] The present disclosure relates to a topical formulation with a mousse like texture comprising at least 70% water; 2%-5% of a texturizing system wherein the system comprises a combination of scleroglucan, an iota type carrageenan, and hydroxypropyl starch; an emulsifier system; and 10-20% of an emollient component.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0007] Explanations of abbreviations and terms used in this disclosure are provided to assist in comprehending and practicing the invention.
[0008] All ratios of composition, blend, or formulation components referred to herein by “percentage” means percentage by weight (wt%), unless otherwise specifically specified.
[0009] All parameter ranges disclosed include the end-points and all values in between, unless otherwise specified.
[0010] Representative features are set out in the following description, which stand alone or may be combined, in any combination, with one or more features disclosed elsewhere in the description and/or drawings of the specification.
[0011] When used in this specification and claims, the terms "comprises" and "comprising" and variations thereof mean that the specified features, steps or integers are included. The terms are not to be interpreted to exclude the presence of other features, steps, or components.
STARCHES
[0012] Starch is a polymeric carbohydrate consisting of a large number of glucose units joined by glycosidic bonds. This polysaccharide is produced by most green plants as energy storage. It is the most common carbohydrate in human diets and is contained in large amounts in staple foods. Starches useful in the present disclosure can come from any plant source including but not limited to: potatoes, wheat, maize (com), rice, tapioca, quinoa, cassava, and the like. Pure starch is a white, tasteless, and odorless powder that is insoluble in cold water or alcohol. It consists of two types of molecules: the linear and helical amylose and the branched amylopectin. Depending on the plant, starch generally contains 20 to 25% amylose and 75 to 80% amylopectin by weight. Waxy com starches contain over 99% amylopectin. When it is isolated directly from the plant source it is most often referred to as “native starch”. Native starch requires heat to thicken or gelatinize. When a starch is pre-cooked, it can then be used to thicken instantly in cold water. This is referred to as a pregelatinized starch. [0013] Native starch can be hydrolyzed into simpler carbohydrates by temperature, acids, various enzymes, or a combination of the three. The resulting fragments are known as dextrins or hydrolyzed starch. The extent of conversion is typically quantified by dextrose equivalent (DE), which is roughly the fraction of the gly cosidic bonds in starch that have been broken. For example, maltodextrin is a lightly hydrolyzed (DE 10-20) starch product used as a bland-tasting filler and thickener. Various glucose syrups (DE 30-70), also called com syrups in the US, are a type of hydrolyzed starch that are viscous solutions used as sweeteners and thickeners in many kinds of processed foods. Dextrose (DE 100), commercial glucose, is prepared by the complete hydrolysis of starch.
[0014] A modified starch has a structure that has been altered from its native state, resulting in modification of one or more of its chemical or physical properties. Starches may be modified, for example, by enzymes, oxidation or, substitution with various compounds. For example, starches can be modified to increase stability against heat, acids, or freezing, improve texture, increase or decrease viscosity, increase or decrease gelatinization times, and/or increase or decrease solubility, among others. Modified starches may be partially or completely degraded into shorter chains or glucose molecules. Amylopectin may be debranched. In one example, modified starches are cross-linked for example to improve stability. Starches that are modified by substitution have a different chemical composition.
[0015] The base-starch used as the base material for obtaining the modified-starch utilized in the present invention can be sourced from any starch containing sources (hereinafter base material) including for example com, wheat, potato, tapioca, barley, pea, dent com, waxy maize, sago, rice, sorghum and high amylose starch, i.e., starch having at least 45% and more particularly at least 65% amylose content, such as high amylose com. Starch flours may also be used.
[0016] The base-starch may be chemically converted, enzymatically converted, or converted by heat treatment or by physical treatment. The term “chemically converted” or “chemical conversion” include, but is not limited to crosslinking, modification with blocking groups to inhibit retrogradation, modification by the addition of lipophilic groups, acetylated starches, hydroxyethylated and hydroxypropylated starches, inorganically esterified starches, cationic, anionic, and oxidized starches, zwitterionic starches and combinations thereof. By an “enzymatically converted starch” is herein understood starches converted by enzymes. Heat treatment includes for example pre-gelatinization. The base-starch may have a granular state, which is preferred, or a non-granular state, i.e., the granular state of the starch has been dismpted by physical, thermal, chemical, or enzymatic treatment. Preferred base materials include converted or non-converted starches originating from com, high amylose com, wheat, potato, tapioca, waxy maize, sago, or rice. In some aspects, base materials to manufacture the basestarches are those chosen from the group consisting of com starch, wheat starch and potato starch. In some aspects, materials are com starch and wheat starch.
[0017] In some aspects, the base-starch is chosen from the group consisting of maltodextrins; pyrodextrins; dextrins such as those prepared by hydrolytic action of acid and/or heat or by the action of enzymes; degraded starches such as for example fluidity or thin boiled starches prepared for example by enzyme conversion, thermal treatment or acid hydrolysis; oxidized starches prepared by treatment with oxidants such as sodium hypochlorite, peroxides and persulfates; and derivatized starches such as cationic, anionic, amphoteric, non-ionic and crosslinked. Any base material can be used for producing these base-starches, such as for example those mentioned above.
[0018] In some aspects, the base-starch is chosen from the group consisting of maltodextrins, dextrins, thin boiled starches and oxidized starches, said base-starch being produced from a base material chosen from the group consisting of non-converted com starch, non-converted wheat starch and non-converted potato starch.
[0019] In some aspects, the base-starch is chosen from the group consisting of maltodextrins, dextrins, thin boiled starches, and oxidized starches, said base-starch being produced from a base material those chosen from the group consisting of non-converted com starch and non-converted wheat starch.
[0020] A hydroxypropylated starch (HP starch) is another example of a modified starch that has been functionalized by hydroxypropylation. Such hydroxypropylated starches are well known in the art and are “E-coded” under the designation 1400 in the International System for Food Additives (INS). The hydroxypropylated starches may be prepared from waxy maize starch. In some aspects, hydroxypropylated starches of the present invention include C*HiForm™ 12748 commercially available from Cargill, Incorporated.
1,3-B-D-GLUCAN
[0021] l,3-[3-D-glucan is a polysaccharide characterized by a backbone of D-glucose residues linked in -(l,3) fashion, wherein the different 1 ,3-P-D-glucans structurally differ from each other in terms of their side groups and molecular weights. Curdlan for example, consists exclusively of the P-(l,3)-D glucose backbone, whereas schizophyllan, scleroglucan and yeast glucan contain 0-(l,6)-glycosyl side chains. 1,3- -D-glucan are typically produced by microbial fermentation, the fermentation broth being used directly or in diluted or purified form, usually after having been pasteurized (see e.g., US 3,301,848). The 1,3-P-D-glucan can be used in purified form or as a mixture of 1,3-P-D-glucan and fermentation residuals. For the purpose of the invention, the 1,3-P-D-glucan used is preferably purified to reduce and neutralize the amount and activity of microbial cells and/or water-soluble constituents of the fermentation broth other than the 1,3-P-D-glucan. WO 2009/062561 discloses a method of manufacturing such high purity 1,3- P-D-glucans.
[0022] The 1,3-P-D-glucans used within the present invention include any polysaccharides classified as 1,3-P-D-glucans, i.e., any polysaccharide which has P-(l,3)-linked backbone of D-glucose residues. Examples of such 1,3-P-D-glucans include curdlan (a homopolymer of P-(l,3)-linked D-glucose residues produced from, e.g., Agrobacterium spp.), gnfolan (a branched 1,3-P-D-glucan produced from, e.g., the fungus Grifola frondosa), lentinan (a branched 1,3-P-D-glucan having two glucose branches attached at each fifth glucose residue of P-(l,3)-backbone produces from, e.g., the fungus Lentinus eeodes), schizophyllan (a branched 1,3-P-D-glucan having one glucose branch for every third glucose residue in the P-(l,3)-backbone produced from, e.g., the fungus Schizophyllan commune), scleroglucan (a branched 1,3-P-D- glucan with one out of three glucose molecules of the P-(l,3)-backbone being linked to a side D- glucose unit by a (1 ,6)-P bond produced from, e.g., fungi of the Sclerotium spp.), SSG (a highly branched P-(l,3)-glucan produced from, e.g., the fungus Sclerotinia sclerotiorum), soluble glucans from yeast (a 1,3-P-D-glucan with P-(l-6)-linked side groups produced from, e.g., Saccharomyces cerevisiae), and laminarin (a 1,3-P-D-glucan with P-(l,3)-glucan and P-(l,6)-glucan side groups produced from, e.g., the brown algae Laminaria digitata).
[0023] Preferably, the 1,3-P-D-glucan is scleroglucan.
[0024] Scleroglucan is a natural polysaccharide produced by fermentation of the filamentous fungus Sclerotium rolfsii. Its chemical structure consists of a linear P(l-3) D-glucose backbone with one p(l -6) D-glucose side chain every three main residue, as shown below:
[0025] Scleroglucan exhibits high potential for commercialization and may show different branching frequency, side-chain length, and/or molecular weight depending on the producing strain or culture conditions. As used herein, the term “molecular weight” refers to the measure of the sum of the atomic weight values of the atoms in a molecule.
[0026] When the 1,3-P-D-glucan used is scleroglucan, it may be in a purified form or in a mix with fermentation residuals.
[0027] Scleroglucan may be in the form of native scleroglucan or hydrolyzed scleroglucan. The molecular weight of the scleroglucan may be between 50,000 and 6,000,000 Daltons. Preferably, if the scleroglucan is native scleroglucan, the molecular weight of the scleroglucan may be between 1,500,000 and 6,000,000 Daltons. Preferably, if the scleroglucan is a hydrolyzed scleroglucan, the molecular weight may be between 50,000 and 100,000 Dalton.
[0028] Scleroglucan is able to form a triple helix in solution making it an ideal nature- derived thickener and stabilizer for formulations with smooth and soft textures. Water-solubility, viscosifying ability and wide stability over temperature, pH and salinity make scleroglucan useful for different personal care applications.
[0029] Various types of 1,3-P-D-glucans are commercially available from numerous sources including Cargill, Incorporated under the brand name Actigum and specifically Actigum CS11.
Carrageenans
[0030] The basic structure of carrageenans is a linear poly saccharide made up of a repeating disaccharide sequence of P-D-galactopyranose linked through positions 1,3 (A residues) and a-D-galactopyranose residues linked through positions 1,4 (B residues). The regular backbone structure of the basic structure of carrageenans is disrupted by a more or less ordered distribution of sulphate groups. Some of the galactose units have attached sulfate groups, while others are unsulfated. The three main types (iota, kappa, and lambda) of carrageenan molecules differ by (1) the types of linkages between the galactose units, and (2) the point of attachment and number of the sulfate groups on each of the galactose units. These apparently small differences in chemical constitution and structure make major differences in the properties of each type of molecule. lambda (X)
[0031] Gelling in carrageenan is caused by helix formation and this can only occur in repeat structures where the B residue is in a l-C-4 conformation. Lambda carrageenan (theoretically having 3 sulphate groups per repeating unit) has both its sugar residues in a 4-C-l conformation and therefore does not form gels. It is therefore known to the skilled person that lambda carrageenan should be avoided when gelling is a strong requirement of the end use of a formulation including carrageenans.
[0032] All the gelling types of carrageenan which include the kappa type (theoretically having 1 sulphate group per repeating unit; the most naturally abundant type of carrageenan molecule) and the iota type (theoretically having 2 sulphate groups per repeating unit; the least naturally abundant type of carrageenan molecule) all contain a 3,6-anhydro bridge on the B unit which forces the sugar to flip from a 4-C-l conformation to a l-C-4 conformation and can then form cross-link networks and gels.
[0033] Some types of seaweed species contain relatively pure carrageenan fractions. Kappaphycus Alvarezii contains largely kappa carrageenan and mu carrageenan which may be converted to kappa carrageenan by alkali treatment. Eucheuma Denticulatum contains a similarly high level of iota carrageenan with some nu carrageenan precursor. Other seaweeds are more mixed in their carrageenan content. Furcellaran contains a strong gelling type carrageenan which is a mix of kappa carrageenan and 0 carrageenan in a roughly 3:2 ratio. Other seaweed types, such as Chondrus crispus and Gigartina types contain not only a mix of kappa and lambda type carrageenans but also a type of carrageenan polymer that is essentially a block copolymer of different carrageenan types. This gives the carrageenan made from Gigartina or Chondrus weed species quite different properties from those made from the Eucheuma type species from Southeast Asia.
[0034] Many red algal species produce different types of carrageenans during various stages of their developmental history. For instance, the genus Gigartina produces mainly kappa carrageenans during its gametophytic stage, and lambda carrageenans during its sporophytic stage. [0035] Carrageenan isolated from natural seaweed sources will contain long polymers substituted with a varying number of sulphate structures. Carrageenan will not be purely of one type of repeating units. For that reason, an isolated carrageenan can be more or less of one “type” based on the degree of sulphate substitution and differing linkages. A skilled artisan will appreciate the genus of seaweed, location of harvest, and stage of development will affect the type of carrageenan isolated. Further, a sample of carrageenan can be analyzed by methods known in the art to determine what proportion of the polymers’ monomeric residues are of what type, (see e.g., Aguibal et. al., Botanica Marina, Vol 46, (2003), pp 179-192; and Knutsen et. al., Carbohydrate Research, 331, (2001), 101-106.)
[0036] The term “Iota Type” as used herein refers to a form of carrageenan that contains greater than 80% of its monomeric residues in the iota form. In some aspects, iota type will contain greater than 85% of its monomeric residues in the iota form. In some aspects, iota type will contain between 80% and 95% its monomeric residues in the iota form.
[0037] Various forms of carrageenans are commercially available from a variety of commercial producers. For example, the carrageenans utilized in the present disclosure are commercially available from Cargill, Incorporated under the trade designations (VPC 508 iota type). Similar to any natural product, carrageenan is a natural product isolated from cultivated or harvest seaweed, the exact content of any carrageenan extract will vary slightly depending on time of harvest or season. Table 1. Compositions of commercially available iota type carrageenans from Cargill, Incorporated
*Values in the table represent an average content from 7 or more samples. ND means amounts of this form was not detected.
Personal care composition
[0038] In one aspect, the present invention is the use of carrageenan mixtures disclosed herein in various personal care products. The personal care composition may be prepared by creating an aqueous phase of predominately water and adding the texturizing system with mixing. The mixing is often done at elevated temperature (approximately 75°C) to facilitate complete incorporation. The type of mixing is not critical and typical mixing equipment used in the art may be employed with the present compositions. In order facilitate quicker and more efficient mixing, medium or high shear equipment is desirable.
[0039] The texturizing system may be added as a premix or as individual components. Additional ingredients and emollients are then added to the formulation and pH adjusted as desired. The mixture is cooled with or without stirring to yield a complete matrix. This matrix is then allowed to rest for a period of time from 2-24 hours. The final composition is then prepared by mixing specifically to incorporate air into the matrix. This mixing can be done by any applicable method known in the art for preparing mousse like textures. For example, a planetary or commercial mixer utilized to make whipped creams, frostings, and the like. The personal care composition my contain other active or inactive ingredients, humectants, or preservatives or the like. Active ingredients are those having a physiological effect on the skin or hair. The composition may be an emulsion containing emollients, colorants, active ingredients, and/or other texturizers. [0040] Typically, high shear mixing is avoided after the final aeration step.
[0041] The amount of texturizing system utilized the personal care formulation can be varied by the skilled artisan to achieve a desired texture. In some aspects, the amount of texturizing system is between 2% and 6%. In other aspects the amount. In another aspect, the percentage of texturizing system is between 2% and 5% and the texturizing system comprises a combination of scleroglucan, iota carrageenan, and hydroxypropyl starch.
1. Aqueous Phase
[0042] The topical formulation may contain an aqueous phase. The aqueous phase may comprise or consist of water, in particular a demineralized water; a floral water such as cornflower water; a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water; and/or a spring water. In some aspects, demineralized water, floral water, or a combination of both is used as the aqueous phase utilized by the present invention.
[0043] In some aspects, the amount of the aqueous phase in the topical formulation may be between 50 wt% to 99.5 wt%. In some aspects, the amount of the aqueous phase in the topical formulation is greater than 70 wt%. The aqueous phase may optionally contain other soluble components such as an alcohol or polyol. In some aspects, the aqueous phase may contain a humectant such as an alcohol or glycerol.
2. Emulsions
[0044] In some aspects, the personal care formulation may be an emulsion. An emulsion may be defined as a mixture containing two immiscible liquids, in which one liquid is dispersed as droplets or globules throughout the other. The dispersed liquid is called the dispersed phase, while the other liquid is called the continuous phase. In an oil-in-water emulsion, as in the present invention, the oil is the dispersed phase or oil phase, and water is the continuous phase or aqueous phase.
[0045] The topical formulation may also contain an oil phase dispersed in the aqueous phase. As used herein, the term “dispersion” refers to an oil phase forming droplets inside the aqueous phase. The droplets may have any sizes and shapes. Preferably, the droplets are homogeneously distributed throughout the aqueous phase. The nature of the oil phase of the emulsion is not critical. The oil phase may thus consist of an emollient component of any fatty substance conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields; in particular the emollient component may comprise at least one oil, i.e., any fatty substance that is in substantially or completely liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) or elevated temperate of (40-70°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
[0046] The preferred emollient component comprises at least one oil which can be a hydrocarbon-based oil, i.e., an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals; a silicone oil, i.e., an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and preferably at least one Si-0 group; a fluoro oil, i.e., an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom; a non-fluoro oil, or a mixture thereof.
[0047] The hydrocarbon-based oils may be of animal origin or of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides or esters of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, examples include, wax esters (jojoba seed oil), coconut oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil; maize oil; soybean oil; cucumber oil; grape seed oil; sesame seed oil; hazelnut oil; apricot oil; macadamia oil; arara oil; castor oil; cocoa butter; almond oil; avocado oil; babassu oil; caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel; Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed oil sold under the tradename Jojoba Oil Golden by Desert Whale; Beta-carotene sold under the tradename Betatene 30% OLV by Cognis (BASF); Rosa Canina Fruit Oil sold under the tradename Rosehip Seed Oil by Nestle World Trade Co.; shea butter oil; and mixtures thereof.
[0048] The hydrocarbon-based oils may be linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin. Alternatively, the hydrocarbon-based oils may be synthetic ethers; synthetic esters; synthetic esters (synthetic esters may be completely or partially plant based), fatty alcohols, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms; C12-C22 higher fatty acids; or mixtures thereof.
[0049] In some aspects, the emollient comprises a member selected from the group consisting of a triglyceride vegetable based oil, a wax ester, a synthetic ester, or mixtures thereof. [0050] In some aspects, the emollient comprises a triglyceride plant based oil, a synthetic ester, or mixtures thereof.
[0051] The personal care composition may further comprise at least one further ingredient. The further ingredient may include, without limitation, a preservative, salt, vitamin, emulsifier, texturizer, nutrient, micronutrient, sugar, protein, polysaccharide, polyol, glucose, sucrose, glycerol, sorbitol, pH adjusters, emollients, dyes, pigments, skin actives, waxes or silicones. Emulsifiers
[0052] Emulsions are stabilized by use of emulsifiers. Emulsifiers are well known in the art of personal care formulations. An emulsifier is a substance that stabilizes an emulsion by reducing the oil-water interfacial tension. Emulsifiers are typically amphiphilic, meaning they have a polar or hydrophilic (i.e., water-soluble) part and a non-polar (i.e., hydrophobic or lipophilic) part. Emulsifiers that are more soluble in water (and, conversely, less soluble in oil) will generally form oil-in-water emulsions. Emulsifiers utilized in personal care applications are well known to the skilled applications scientist in personal care industry. Any emulsifier or mixture of emulsifiers that result in the particle size and/or particle size distribution mentioned herein may be employed to manufacture the emulsifier system for the compositions of the present disclosure.
[0053] The formulation will also comprise an emulsifier system which may be a single emulsifier or mixture of emulsifiers.
[0054] In some aspects, the emulsifier system comprises a glycerol stearate. In some aspects, the emulsifier system comprises one or more emulsifiers selected from the group consisting of polyglycerol-3-stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, and cetearyl alcohol. In some aspects, the emulsifier system comprises a mixture of poly glycerol-3 -stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, and cetearyl alcohol. In some aspects, the formulation comprises l%-3% of the emulsifier system.
Topical formulation
[0055] The ingredients provided herein are useful in the manufacture of topical formulations such as personal care products or cosmetics. The inventors unexpectedly found that formulations comprising a texturizing system have numerous desirable characteristics as explained further below.
[0056] In one aspect, the present invention is a topical formulation comprising an emulsion as described herein. As used herein, the term “topical formulation” refers to a formulation that may be applied directly to a part of the body. The term “formulation” is used herein to denote compositions of various ingredients in various weight ranges, in accordance with the present invention.
[0057] The formulations manufactured with the ingredients described herein are suitable for use on (and may be applied to) hair, scalp, nails, and skin, for delivering cosmetic or actives to the skin or hair for providing cleansing, conditioning, moisturizing, minimizing or treating skin imperfections, reducing skin oiliness, providing fragrances to the hair or skin and the like.
[0058] “Personal care” means and comprises any cosmetic, hygienic, toiletry and topical care products including, without limitation, leave-on products (i.e., products that are left on keratinous substrates after application); rinse-off products (i.e., products that are washed or rinsed from keratinous substrates during or within a few minutes of application); shampoos; hair curling and hair straightening products; hair style maintaining and hair conditioning products; lotions and creams for nails, hands, feet, face, scalp and/or body; hair dye; face and body makeup; nail care products; astringents; deodorants; antiperspirants; anti-acne; antiaging; depilatories; colognes and perfumes; skin protective creams and lotions (such as sunscreens); skin and body cleansers; skin conditioners; skin toners; skin firming compositions; skin tanning and lightening compositions; liquid soaps; bar soaps; bath products; shaving products; and oral hygiene products (such as toothpastes, oral suspensions, and mouth care products).
[0059] The topical formulation comprising the emulsion disclosed herein may be a cream. [0060] Formulations prepared using the ingredients disclosed herein have a clear colorless or light white color that is generally considered to be aesthetically appealing. In some cases, the formulations of the invention may be further processed to make a colored end product. In such cases, the lack of color is beneficial because it will show up the additional pigment without influencing the final color.
[0061] Furthermore, formulations prepared using the ingredients of the present invention have a good spreadability with a light pleasant residual feeling on the skin. The use of the ingredients of the present invention improves texture and body of personal care products. This texture feels pleasant to touch and to apply. Furthermore, the consistency is such that good product pick-up may be achieved. Good product pick-up means that sufficient product (i.e., not too much, and not too little) can be collected on the user’s finger.
[0062] Personal care products used for tightening the skin can be applied by spreading the product onto the skin with the hand or by use of a brush, swab, cotton pads (rounds or squares), or a cloth. The frequency of use can be determined by the user and application could be daily or multiple times per day.
[0063] In one aspect, the ingredients of the present disclosure maybe useful in sunscreen applications. Sunscreens contain ingredients intended to block UV radiation from reaching the skin. UV blockers can be physical such as or chemical salts like ZnO or TiO2 or chemical (max authorized level indicated) such as Butyl Methoxy dibenzoylmethane (5%); Octocrylene (10%); Titanium dioxide (25%); Ethylhexyl Salicylate (5%); Ethylhexyl Methoxy cinnamate (10%); Bis- ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (10%); Emulsions of the present disclosure can be used with any type of UV blocker know in the art or mixtures of UV blockers.
EXAMPLES
Example 1:
Preparation
[0064] The water is heated 80°C. The ingredients of phase B are weighed and, also heated to 80°C. Propanediol is added to the water phase. Metarin P IP is dispersed in the water phase while mixing with a homomixer (UltraTurrax, 3500 rpm, 5min). Satiagel and Actigum Care are then dispersed in the water while mixing with a homomixer (UT, 10000 rpm, lOmin). Coco- glucoside was then added and then the prepared phase B materials were added to phase A while mixing with Ultraturrax (8000-10000 rpm, lOmin). The mixture was allowed to cool to approximately 38°C while stirring is maintained with an IKA Eurostar mixer fitted with a blade head. The temperature needs to be maintained above 35°C to accommodate the carrageenan. At 35°C phase D is added and mixed until homogeneous. Water losses were compensated for, if needed, and the pH adjusted to approximately 5.5 with phase E. After resting for 24 hours at room temperature the formulation was mixed with a planetary mixer (Verna mixer SM7, whisk head, speed 10, 15min).
Stability
[0065] The stability of the formulations described herein is an aspect of the invention. Stability can be tested at room temperature, at elevated temperature, and through freeze and thaw cycles. Stability is evaluated visually, by measuring volume loss, and by observing any change in density of the personal care formulation over time. The formulation fails if the phases separate or begin to separate. Major pooling of oil or water droplets on the surface or a significant change in the visual color or texture of the samples would also indicate failure of the formulation. In addition, viscosity could be rechecked and significant decrease (>20%) would indicate failure of the formulation. Significant reduction in the volume or density of the formulation is also an indication of loss of stability. [0066] In some aspects the formulation, retains greater than 80%, or 90% of its volume after 3 freeze thaw cycles of 8 hours at -8°C and 14 hours at room temperature.
[0067] In some aspects the formulation, shows less than a 10% increase in density after 3 freeze thaw cycles. One freeze thaw cycle includes a container containing sample being stored for 8 hours at -8°C and the stored for 14 hours at room temperature. This is repeated twice more to complete the 3 cycle test. After 14 hours at room temperature the volume, density, viscosity, and visual observation of the sample can be determined to assess stability.
[0068] The formulation of Examplel have surprising stability stability, with little or no breakdown or separation between phases over an extended period of time (e.g., 4, 8, or 12 weeks) when measured at room temperature and at 45°C. Therefore, it may be used to make products (e.g., topical formulations) requiring a long shelf life. In addition, the formulation of Examplel little or no loss of volume and little or no increase in density after competing a 3 cycle freeze thaw test as described above.
[0069] Three samples of Example 1 were added to a tarred 17ml containers in triplicate and leveled off to completely fill the containers. The density was determined to be 0.66g/ml, 0.65g/ml, and 0.68g/ml for the three samples. In some aspects, the formulations has a maximum density of 0.8g/ml, 0.75g/ml, or 0.7 g/ml.

Claims

CLAIMS We Claim:
1. A topical formulation comprising: at least 70% by weight water;
2%-5% by weight of a texturizing system wherein the system comprises a scleroglucan, an iota type carrageenan, and hydroxypropyl starch; an emulsifier system;
10-20% by weight of an emollient component; optionally, 0. 1-0.5% by weight of a surfactant; and wherein the formulation has a density of less 0.8g/ml and maintains at least 80%, or preferably 90% of it is volume though 3 freeze and thaw cycles.
2. The topical formulation of claim 1, wherein the iota type carrageenan comprises greater than 85% of its monomeric residues in the iota form.
3. The topical formulation of claim 2, wherein the iota type carrageenan comprises between 85% to 95% of its monomeric residues in the iota form.
4. The topical formulation of claim 1, wherein the emulsifier system comprises one or more emulsifiers selected from the group consisting of polyglycerol-3-stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, and cetearyl alcohol.
5. The topical formulation of claim 4, wherein the emulsifier system comprises a mixture of a poly glycerol-3 -stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, and cetearyl alcohol.
6. The topical formulation of claim 5, further comprising a lecithin.
7. The topical formulation of claims 1 or 4, wherein the emollient is selected from the group consisting of a vegetable-based triglyceride oil, a wax ester, a synthetic ester, or mixtures thereof.
8. The topical formulation of any of the preceding claims, wherein the formulation shows less than a 10% increase in density after 3 freeze thaw cy cles.
9. The topical formulation of any of the preceding claims, wherein the texturizing system comprises 3% to 5% by weight of the topical formulation.
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