WO2025129490A1

WO2025129490A1 - Anhydrous composition caring for and/or making up keratin material and kit comprising the same

Info

Publication number: WO2025129490A1
Application number: PCT/CN2023/140197
Authority: WO
Inventors: Le HAN; Lingling Sun; Di Wu
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2023-12-20
Filing date: 2023-12-20
Publication date: 2025-06-26
Anticipated expiration: 2026-06-20
Also published as: FR3157190B3; FR3157190A3

Abstract

An anhydrous composition, preferably for caring for and/or making up keratin material, comprising: a) at least one crosslinked acrylic polymer selected from carbomer, copolymers of acrylic acid and a hydrophobic co-monomer and a combination thereof; b) at least one active ingredient selected from ferulic 10 acid and its derivatives,polygonum cuspidatum root extract, glycyrrhizin, glycyrrhetinic acid and derivatives, andmixtures thereof; and c) at least 40 wt.% of at least one polyol, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition. a kit comprising said anhydrous composition and a non-therapeutic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials.

Description

ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION CARING FOR AND/OR MAKING UP KERATIN MATERIAL AND KIT COMPRISING THE SAME

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to an anhydrous composition, preferably for caring for and/or making up keratin materials. The present invention also relates to a kit comprising said anhydrous composition and a non-therapeutic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials.

BACKGROUND

Skin acts as a natural barrier between internal and external environments and therefore plays an important role in vital biological functions such as protection against mechanical and chemical injury, micro-organisms, and ultraviolet damage.

Development of products for caring for and/or making up the skin is permanent. Many cosmetic active ingredients are used in products for caring for and/or making up the skin.

However, some active ingredients such as polygonum cuspidatum root extract, ferulic acid and glycyrrhetinic acid have a very low solubility in water, thus hydrous products comprising them are not stable. And ferulic acid is sensitive to certain environmental factors such as oxygen and water.

It is desired to develop cosmetic products comprising such active ingredients, which is stable.

In addition, such commercial products do not have a suitable viscosity, they cannot be applied easily or have dripping issue.

Thus, it is also desired that such cosmetic products have a suitable viscosity so that they can be applied easily and there is no dripping issue.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

Thus, one object of the present invention is to develop products comprising cosmetic active ingredients sensitive to oxygen and water and/or with a low solubility in water, such products are stable and have a suitable viscosity so that they can be applied easily and there is no dripping issue.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials.

Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides an anhydrous composition, preferably for caring for and/or making up keratin materials comprising:

a) at least one crosslinked acrylic polymer selected from carbomer, copolymers of acrylic acid and a hydrophobic co-monomer, and a combination thereof;

b) at least one active ingredient selected from ferulic acid and its derivatives, polygonum cuspidatum root extract, glycyrrhizin, glycyrrhetinic acid and derivatives, and mixtures thereof; and

c) at least 40 wt. %of at least one polyol, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

The inventors have found that the anhydrous composition according to the present invention is stable and has a suitable viscosity so that it can be applied easily and there is no dripping issue.

According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a kit, preferably for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising:

i) the anhydrous composition as described above; and

ii) water or a hydrous composition,

wherein the anhydrous composition is separated from water or the hydrous composition.

The kit can be used to care for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face.

According to a third aspect, the present invention provides is a non-therapeutic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising mixing the anhydrous composition with water or the hydrous composition of the kit as described above to form a mixture and applying the mixture to the keratin materials.

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.

In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between... and…" and "from... to... " .

Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

Throughout the instant application, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., “consisting of” ) . For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin materials" is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips, and the hair. Facial skin is most particularly considered according to the present invention.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means that the composition according to the present invention contains less than 2 wt. %and preferably less than 1 wt. %of water relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably contains no water. Where appropriate, the small amounts of water may be provided by ingredients of the composition that contain it in residual amount but are not deliberately provided.

Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired purpose as required.

All percentages in the present invention refer to weight percentage, unless otherwise specified.

According to the first aspect, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises:

b) at least one active ingredient selected from ferulic acid and its derivatives, polygonum cuspidatum root extract, glycyrrhizin, glycyrrhetinic acid and derivatives and mixtures thereof; and

Crosslinked acrylic polymers

The anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises at least one crosslinked acrylic polymer selected from carbomer, copolymers of acrylic acid and a hydrophobic co-monomer, and a combination thereof.

Preferably, the hydrophobic co-monomer is selected from (C10-C30) alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid.

More preferably, the hydrophobic co-monomer is selected from (C10-C30) alkyl esters of an unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponding to formula (C) below:

in which R₂ denotes H or CH₃ or C₂H₅ (i.e., acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH₃ (methacrylate units) , R₁ denotes a C10-C30 alkyl radical.

The (C10-C30) alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids are, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

Preferably, the crosslinked acrylic polymer is selected from carbomer and copolymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising:

(i) essentially acrylic acid,

(ii) an ester of formula (C) described above and in which R₂ denotes H or CH₃, R₁ denoting a C10-C30 alkyl radical,

(iii) and a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth) acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.

More preferably, the crosslinked acrylic polymer is selected from carbomer, acrylic acid/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, and a combination thereof.

Advantageously, the crosslinked acrylic polymer is present in the anhydrous composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.3 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.3 wt. %to 3 wt. %, more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 2 wt. %, most preferably from 0.6 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Active ingredients

The anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises at least one active ingredient selected from ferulic acid and its derivatives, polygonum cuspidatum root extract, glycyrrhizin, glycyrrhetinic acid and derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

As derivatives of ferulic acid, mention can be made of esters thereof and/or the cosmetically acceptable salts thereof.

As examples of derivatives of ferulic acid esters, mention may be made of methyl ferulate, ethyl ferulate, isopropyl ferulate or ferulic acid esters of sterols, such as oryzanol, notably y-oryzanol.

Glycyrrhetinic acid can be α-glycyrrhetinic acid and/or β-glycyrrhetinic acid.

As derivatives of glycyrrhetinic acid, mention can be made of salts and esters thereof.

Preferred salts of the glycyrrhetinic acids are alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, such as, sodium, potassium, lithium, calcium or magnesium salts, ammonium salts or salts of organic bases, such as, methylamine, dimethylamine, triethylamine, piperidine, ethylenediamine, lysine, choline hydroxide, meglumine, morpholine or arginine.

Preferred esters of the glycyrrhetinic acids are esters of saturated, linear or branched alcohols having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms. Preferred esters are methyl esters, glyceryl esters and stearyl esters.

Preferably, the active ingredient is selected from ferulic acid, polygonum cuspidatum root extract, glycyrrhizin, glycyrrhetinic acid, and a combination thereof.

Advantageously, the active ingredient is present in the anhydrous composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 25 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, more preferably from 2 wt. %to 15 wt. %, most preferably from 3 wt. %to 12 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises from 1 wt. %to 15 wt. %, preferably from 2 wt. %to 12 wt. %, more preferably from 3 wt. %to 10 wt. %of ferulic acid, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

Preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises from 0.1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 8 wt. %, more preferably from 1 wt. %to 5 wt. %of polygonum cuspidatum root extract, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

Preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises from 0.1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 8 wt. %, more preferably from 0.3 wt. %to 6 wt. %of glycyrrhetinic acid, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

More preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises from 3 wt. %to 10 wt. %of ferulic acid, from 1 wt. %to 5 wt. %of polygonum cuspidatum root extract, and from 0.3 wt. %to 6 wt. %of glycyrrhetinic acid, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

Polyols

The anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises at least 40 wt. %of at least one polyol, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

The term “polyol” herein means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups.

The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched, or cyclic molecular structure.

Preferably, the polyol is selected from C₂-C₆polyols.

More preferably, the polyol is selected from glycerin, diglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and a combination thereof.

In the present invention, the definition of polyol includes all possible isomer. For example, propylene glycol includes 1, 3-propylene glycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol and 1, 1-propylene glycol. Butylene glycol includes 1, 4-butylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, 1, 2-butylene glycol, etc.

More preferably, the polyol is selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, and a combination thereof.

Advantageously, the polyol is present in the anhydrous composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 60 wt. %to 98 wt. %, preferably from 65 wt. %to 95 wt. %, more preferably from 70 wt. %to 90 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises from 1 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 3 wt. %to 20 wt. %, more preferably from 5 wt. %to 15 wt. %of glycerin, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

Preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises from 2 wt. %to 60 wt. %, preferably from 6 wt. %to 40 wt. %, more preferably from 10 wt. %to 30 wt. %of propanediol, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

Preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises from 10 wt. %to 80 wt. %, preferably from 20 wt. %to 70 wt. %, more preferably from 30 wt. %to 60 wt. %of dipropylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

More preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises from 5 wt. %to 15 wt. %of glycerin, from 10 wt. %to 30 wt. %of propanediol, and from 30 wt. %to 60 wt. %of dipropylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

Preferably, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition:

a) from 0.6 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %of at least one crosslinked acrylic polymer selected from carbomer, acrylic acid/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, and a combination thereof;

b) from 3 wt. %to 12 wt. %of at least one active ingredient selected from ferulic acid, polygonum cuspidatum root extract, glycyrrhizin, glycyrrhetinic acid, and a combination thereof; and

c) from 70 wt. %to 90 wt. %of at least one polyol selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, and a combination thereof.

The anhydrous composition according to the present invention is stable and has a suitable viscosity so that it can be applied easily and there is no dripping issue.

By "stable" , it means that there is no significant change in terms of viscosity and appearance after the anhydrous composition is stored at 55℃ for at least one week.

The viscosity measurement is generally performed at room temperature (25℃) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) , using a Rheomat RM200 viscometer equipped with a M3 spindle, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the composition (after which time stabilization of the viscosity and of the spin speed of the spindle are observed) , at a shear rate of 200 rpm.

It is desirable that the viscosity of the anhydrous composition ranges from 840 to 2100 mPa·s (M3) .

Preferably, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention is transparent.

The term “transparent” according to the present invention is understood to mean the compositions exhibiting a turbidity, measured according to the method described below, of less than 20 NTU (Nephelometric Turbidity Units) .

Preferably, the composition of the present invention exhibits a turbidity of less than 15 NTU.

The turbidity is measured using a model 2100N turbidimeter from Hach at room temperature (25℃) , wherein the sample cells for turbidity testing are made of quartz glass with a reference number 2084900.

Kits

According to the second aspect, the kit according to the present invention comprises:

i) the anhydrous composition as described above; and

ii) water or a hydrous composition,

Hydrous composition

The hydrous composition of the kit according to the present invention comprises water.

Advantageously, the hydrous composition comprises water in an amount ranging from 60 wt. %to 99.9 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the hydrous composition.

Additional cosmetic active agent (s)

Depend on the final purpose, the kit may comprise an additional cosmetic active agent (s) in the anhydrous composition and/or the hydrous composition depending on their nature.

It is easy for the skilled in the art to adjust the amount of the additional cosmetic active agent based on the final use of the kit according to the present invention.

It is also easy for the skilled in the art to decide whether to add the additional cosmetic active agent (s) in the anhydrous composition and/or the hydrous composition.

Adjuvants or additives

The kit according to the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, which will be in the anhydrous composition and/or the hydrous composition depending on their nature, for instance fragrances, preserving agents, and pH regulators.

Needless to say, the skilled in the art will take care to select the optional adjuvant (s) added to the kit according to the present invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the kit according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

It is easy for the skilled in the art to decide whether to add the adjuvant (s) in the anhydrous composition and/or the hydrous composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not comprise a surfactant.

Preparation and use

The anhydrous part and the hydrous part of the kit according to the present invention can be prepared by convention methods in the cosmetic field.

In order to store the kit according to the present invention, the anhydrous part and the hydrous part are kept separate from one another in two separate containers or preferably one container before the anhydrous part and the hydrous part are mixed. If a single container is used, the hydrous part may be packaged in the body of a container which is closed with a cap containing the anhydrous part, a portable and/or detachable separator being provided between the anhydrous part and the hydrous part. These packages include those described in FR-A-2, 476, 607, FA-A-2, 453, 793 or FR-A-2, 645, 740, all incorporated herein by reference.

The user can mix the anhydrous part and the hydrous part to obtain a homogeneous mixture.

The mixing can be done by grinding gently with fingers.

The kit according to the present invention may be used for caring for and/or making up keratin materials.

According to the third aspect, the present invention provides is a non-therapeutic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising mixing the anhydrous composition with water or the hydrous composition of the kit as described above to form a mixture and applying the mixture to the keratin materials.

The keratin materials include the skin, in particular the face.

EXAMPLES

The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

Main raw materials used, trade names and suppliers thereof are listed in Table 1.

Table 1

Invention examples 1-4 and comparative examples 1-2

Compositions of invention examples (IE. ) 1-4 and comparative examples (CE. ) 1-2 were prepared according to the amounts given in Table 2. The amount of each component is given in%by weight of the total weight of the composition containing it.

Table 2

Compositions of invention examples 1-4 are compositions according to the present invention.

Composition of comparative example 1 does not comprise at least active ingredient selected from ferulic acid and its derivatives, polygonum cuspidatum root extract, glycyrrhizin, glycyrrhetinic acid and derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

Composition of comparative example 2 does not comprise at least one crosslinked acrylic polymer selected from carbomer and copolymers of acrylic acid and a hydrophobic co-monomer.

Preparation process:

The compositions listed above were prepared as follows:

1) introducing polyols in a main kettle by stirring and heating to 85℃ to obtain a clear liquid;

2) introducing active ingredient (if presents) into the clear liquid in the main kettle by stirring to obtain a yellow to brown/transparent liquid,

3) introducing crosslinked acrylic polymer (if presents) , ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate (if presents) , into the main kettle by stirring to obtain a uniform mixture, then cooling down to room temperature.

Evaluation

Each composition of invention examples 1-4 and comparative examples 1-2 was evaluated as follows.

Turbidity

The turbidity of each sample was measured using a model 2100N turbidimeter from Hach at room temperature (25℃) , wherein the sample cells for turbidity testing are made of quartz glass with a reference number 2084900.

Viscosity

The viscosity of each sample was measured using a Rheomat RM 200 viscometer from Lamy Rheology with a No. 3 spindle at a speed of 200 rpm, at room temperature (25℃) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) . The values were recorded at T=30 seconds and at T=10 minutes.

Stability

The samples were put in an oven at 55℃ for one week, then cooled down to room temperature (25℃) . Then the viscosity of each was measured as described above.

If the viscosity of tested sample is>1050mPa·s, there is no obvious decrease or increase (±210 mPa·s) after long term (one-week period) storage and the appearance of the sample is transparent (i.e., the turbidity of the sample is less than 20 NTU) , then the stability is considered to be "PASS" .

The test results of the appearance, viscosity and stability of compositions of invention examples 1-4 and comparative examples 1-2 were summarized in Table 3.

Table 3

Not Pass*¹: the viscosity of the sample after one-week was not tested since the turbidity thereof is more than 20 NTU.

Not Pass*²: the viscosity of composition of comparative example 2 was decreased from 995/1285 mPa·s to 798/802 mPa·s.

It can be seen that compositions of invention examples 1-4 are transparent and stable, have a viscosity suitable for application.

Claims

An anhydrous composition, preferably for caring for and/or making up keratin material, comprising:

a) at least one crosslinked acrylic polymer selected from carbomer, copolymers of acrylic acid and a hydrophobic co-monomer, and a combination thereof;

b) at least one active ingredient selected from ferulic acid and its derivatives, polygonum cuspidatum root extract, glycyrrhizin, glycyrrhetinic acid and derivatives, and mixtures thereof; and

c) at least 40 wt. %of at least one polyol, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
Composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic co-monomer is selected from (C10-C30) alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid, preferably, the hydrophobic co-monomer is selected from (C10-C30) alkyl esters of an unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponding to formula (C) below:

in which R₂ denotes H or CH₃ or C₂H₅, R₁ denoting a C10-C30 alkyl radical.
Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the crosslinked acrylic polymer is selected from carbomer, acrylic acid/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, and a combination thereof.
Composition according to any of claims 1-3, wherein the crosslinked acrylic polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.3 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.3 wt. %to 3 wt. %, more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 2 wt. %, most preferably from 0.6 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-4, wherein the active ingredient is selected from ferulic acid, polygonum cuspidatum root extract, glycyrrhizin, glycyrrhetinic acid, and a combination thereof.
Composition according to any of claims 1-5, wherein the active ingredient is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 25 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, more preferably from 2 wt. %to 15 wt. %, most preferably from 3 wt. %to 12 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition
Composition according to any one of claims 1-6, wherein the polyol is selected from C₂-C₆ polyols, preferably the polyol is selected from glycerin, diglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and a combination thereof, more preferably the polyol is selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, and a combination thereof.
Composition according to any one of claims 1-7, wherein the polyol is present in an amount ranging from 60 wt. %to 98 wt. %, preferably from 65 wt. %to 95 wt. %, more preferably from 70 wt. %to 90 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any one of claims 1-8, comprising from 1 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 3 wt. %to 20 wt. %, more preferably from 5 wt. %to 15 wt. %of glycerin, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any one of claims 1-9, comprising from 2 wt. %to 60 wt. %, preferably from 6 wt. %to 40 wt. %, more preferably from 10 wt. %to 30 wt. %of propanediol, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any one of claims 1-10, comprising from 10 wt. %to 80 wt. %, preferably from 20 wt. %to 70 wt. %, more preferably from 30 wt. %to 60 wt. %of dipropylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition:

a) from 0.6 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %of at least one crosslinked acrylic polymer selected from carbomer, acrylic acid/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, and a combination thereof;

b) from 3 wt. %to 12 wt. %of at least one active ingredient selected from ferulic acid, polygonum cuspidatum root extract, glycyrrhizin, glycyrrhetinic acid, and a combination thereof; and

c)from 70 wt. %to 90 wt. %of at least one polyol selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, and a combination thereof.
A kit, preferably for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising:

i) the anhydrous composition according to any of claims 1-12; and

ii) water or a hydrous composition,

wherein the anhydrous composition is separate from water or the hydrous composition.
Kit according to claim 1, wherein the hydrous composition comprise water, preferably in an amount ranging from 60 wt. %to 99.9 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the hydrous composition.
A non-therapeutic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising mixing the anhydrous composition with water or the hydrous composition of the kit according to claim 13 or 14 to form a mixture and applying the mixture to the keratin materials.