WO2024075044A1

WO2024075044A1 - Liquid crystal emulsion based on ingredients of natural origin

Info

Publication number: WO2024075044A1
Application number: PCT/IB2023/059978
Authority: WO
Inventors: Giulia Nerina NARDONE; Irene RAGUSA
Original assignee: Labomar S.P.A.
Priority date: 2022-10-05
Filing date: 2023-10-04
Publication date: 2024-04-11

Abstract

The present invention relates to a liquid crystal emulsion comprising: i) a fatty phase containing: at least one mono- and diglyceride of C12-C22 fatty acids; at least one butter; at least one oil; at least one alkylpolyglucoside, in which the alkyl has a carbon number comprised between C10 and C22; an aqueous phase, containing at least water, in which the emulsion comprises a content of ingredients of natural origin comprised between 90% and 100% by weight on the total weight of the emulsion.

Description

LIQUID CRYSTAL EMULSION BASED ON INGREDIENTS OF NATURAL ORIGIN

DESCRIPTION

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention generally belongs to the technical field of liquid crystal emulsions, of the processes for preparing such types of emulsions, of the cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions comprising them.

BACKGROUND ART

The skin plays several roles at the level of the human and animal organism, the first of which is that of a protective organ. In fact, the skin provides a defence against chemical, microbiological and mechanical aggressions, and prevents excessive water loss and dehydration. Therefore, the skin represents a physical barrier between the inside and the outside of the body. This protective function is carried out by the stratum comeum, the outermost layer of the epidermis.

The stratum comeum has a particular structure which gives it this protective capacity, called "brick and mortar" . The comeocytes ("bricks") are immersed in a lipid "cement" ("mortar") that gives the stratum comeum mechanical resistance and impermeability to water. The main activities of the stratum comeum are as follows: it prevents excessive water loss through the skin (Trans Epidermal Water Loss, TEWL); it prevents external irritants from reaching the vital layers of the epidermis and dermis, provoking an immune response.

This barrier functionality is mainly due to the lipids forming the stratum comeum, which are arranged by forming structures, called lipid lamellae, which are highly organized and formed by densely packed lipid layers (Bouwstra, 2016). In particular, lipid lamellae mainly consist of: ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and fatty acids (predominantly long-chain and saturated FFAs), which contribute to the composition of the barrier lipids by 40-50%, 20-33% and 7-13%, respectively (Fitsum F. Sahle, 2015).

The skin is characterized by an active lipid metabolism, which contributes not only to the formation and maintenance of the skin barrier function, but also plays an important role in membrane structure and cellular function.

During comeification, i.e., the last step of keratinization, the plasma membrane phospholipids (PLs) are hydrolysed; then, the liberated fatty acids (FAs) are used to synthesize other lipids, such as triglycerides (TG), ceramides (CERs) and sterols. This process leads to the formation of the lipid matrix. Such lipids are organized in the intercellular compartment in multi-lamellar structures.

However, certain polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs), such as linolenic acid (ALA), which is an omega 3(n-3) PUFA, and linoleic acid (LA), which is an omega 6 (n-6) PUFA, cannot be synthesized by the body from scratch, which is why they are referred to as essential fats. They are important components for the maintenance of normal barrier functionality.

In the event of barrier alterations, the skin loses its normal protective functions. Thereby, non- pathological disorders can arise such as sensitive, dry and reactive skin, or pathological conditions such as atopic dermatitis, contact dermatitis and eczema. It is therefore very important to maintain or restore the normal functions of the skin with products which can moisturise and repair the skin. There are cosmetic products/medical devices and drugs with this function on the market. The most commonly used products in the form of topical preparations are emulsions, in the form of a cream (viscous semi-solid) or lotion (liquid semisolid).

An emulsion is a dispersion of two immiscible (or partially miscible) phases, one of which is uniformly distributed, in the form of small droplets (dispersed phase), in the other (continuous phase). They are complex, thermodynamically unstable systems which differ from each other in the proportions of the two phases, the emulsifying system and the functional active ingredients.

Emulsions are classified according to the component forming the dispersed phase: when the dispersed phase consists of oil droplets dispersed in the continuous aqueous phase, it is referred to as an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion; conversely, when the dispersed phase is water and the dispersing phase is oil, it is referred to as a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion. Usually, O/W- emulsions have a higher percentage of water with respect to W/O-emulsions and the emulsifier has hydrophilic characteristics; conversely, W/O-emulsions have hydrophobic emulsifiers.

Emulsifiers are amphiphilic molecules whose structure generally consists of a hydrophobic chain and a polar head. In an emulsion, the polar groups of the emulsifier are oriented towards water, while the hydrocarbon fraction is oriented towards oil, so as to form a film around the dispersed particles. Emulsifiers are essential for obtaining stable systems over time; in fact, the two phases will tend to separate over time in the absence of an emulsifier, due to the tendency of the dispersed droplets to gather to reduce the interface area and thus decrease the free energy of the system.

There are also emulsions which are characterized by a particular multi-lamellar structure, called liquid crystal emulsions or multi-lamellar emulsions. In the structure of these emulsions, there is a third multi-lamellar phase, which makes the emulsion more chemically and physically stable (Figure 2). The double-layered lamellar structure around the oil droplets, causes the Van der Walls interactions between the droplets to decrease, thus also decreasing coalescence, preventing flocculation (Mandawgade, 2008) and improving emulsion stability.

The properties of liquid crystal creams are not limited only to better stability over time: thanks to their particular structure, they can combine the advantages of O/W and W/O creams. In fact, it is known that a liquid crystal cream immediately hydrates like an O/W, but at the same time has occlusive properties similar to a W/O. In fact, liquid crystal emulsions, having a multi- lamellar structure similar to intercellular lipids, are dermo-compatible and have moisturising properties (Mirjam Gosenca, 2013). Furthermore, thanks to the multi-lamellar structure, the actives possibly contained in a liquid crystal cream are released more slowly with respect to a traditional emulsion, because the structure delays the release or delivery of the active ingredient through the cream (Mandawgade, 2008).

Problems of the background art

To date, liquid crystal preparations containing exclusively or substantially natural ingredients or ingredients of natural origin are not known; the Applicant considers that the reason for this absence is linked, on the one hand, to the difficulty of generating liquid crystal emulsions, based on natural ingredients, which are stable, i.e., capable of maintaining the liquid crystal structure over time; on the other hand, it the absence is linked to the difficulty of generating emulsions which are truly effective in providing immediate but also prolonged skin hydration.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The Applicant has now identified the formulation of a liquid crystal emulsion based on ingredients of natural origin or natural ingredients which remains stable over time and which proves effective in restoring hydration and barrier functionality.

In particular, the liquid crystal emulsion (CL) of the invention forms a multi-lamellar, biomimetic structure, where "biomimetic" means the ability of an ingredient or set of ingredients to mimic the natural intracellular structure of the stratum comeum.

The object of the present invention is therefore a liquid crystal emulsion comprising i) a fatty phase containing:

- at least one mono- and diglyceride of fatty acids having a carbon number comprised between C12 and C22,

- at least one butter,

- at least one oil, ii) at least one alkylpolyglucoside, in which the alkyl has a carbon number comprised between CIO and C22, ii) an aqueous phase, containing at least water the emulsion being characterized in that it consists of between about 90% and 100% by weight of ingredients of natural origin.

A further object of the invention are cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions comprising or consisting of the liquid crystal emulsion. The invention further relates to a process for preparing the liquid crystal emulsion, comprising the following steps: a) arranging the aqueous phase, deprived of any thermolabile ingredients; b) heating the aqueous phase to a temperature comprised between 70°C and 80°C; b) separately, joining, in order: the at least one oil, the at least one mono- and diglyceride of C12-C20 fatty acids, the at least one butter, the at least one alkylpolyglucoside, to obtain the fatty phase with the at least one alkylpolyglucoside added, c) heating the fatty phase added with the at least one alkylpolyglucoside added, preferably at a temperature comprised between 75°C and 85°C, until a molten fatty mass is obtained; d) combining the molten fatty mass and the aqueous phase under stirring, to obtain a final mixture; e) cooling the final mixture under stirring, to a temperature below 30°C, optionally adding thermolabile ingredients.

Advantages of the invention

The liquid crystal emulsion is characterized by the following advantages:

- it is exclusively or substantially natural, consisting of between 90% and 100% by weight of ingredients of natural origin or natural ingredients.

- it has an immediate moisturising effect (less than one hour after skin application), but also prolonged over time (see example 8): the Applicant considers that this effect is attributable to the emulsion as a whole, where the at least one oil and the at least one butter carry out the role of emollient and moisturising active ingredients; the simultaneous presence of butter and mono- and diglycerides of C12-C22 fatty acids allows to maintain the multi-lamellar structure of the liquid crystals over time, also producing an occlusive effect on the skin which contributes to the maintenance of tissue hydration in the medium/long term.

- it reduces the TEWL value after topical application.

- it is stable, despite the presence of a relative amount of solid/semi-solid phase ingredients in the fatty phase (butter, mono- and diglycerides of C12-C22 fatty acids, and optionally wax(es)); the Applicant considers that this effect is mainly attributable to the presence in the fatty phase of the at least one mono- and diglyceride of C12-C22 fatty acids.

The present invention offers the possibility of preparing cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical compositions with aesthetically elegant and functional ingredients of natural origin, which carry oils and butters, which moisturise and restore the skin barrier; but which can also carry other hydrophilic and/or lipophilic active ingredients for cosmetic or pharmaceutical use.

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES Figure 1 - Liquid crystal structure of the cream CLN in accordance with example 4, visualized with the use of the polarized light optical microscope.

Figure 2 - Schematic graphic depiction of the lamellar structure typical of a liquid crystal emulsion (Cosmetic Science and Technology: Theoretical Principles and Applications).

Figure 3 - Molecular structure of APGs: R = alkyl group, DP = degree of polymerization (Savic, S., et al., 2014).

Figure 4 - Image of a liquid crystal emulsion sample stored for 6 months at 25°C, acquired with Bright Field microscopy.

Figure 5 - Image of a liquid crystal emulsion sample stored for 6 months at 40°C, acquired with Bright Field microscopy.

Figure 6 - Comparison of the hydration data in the area used for the test with the two products (Cream A and Cream B) before application (TO = initial value).

Figure 7 - Comparison of the data before application of the product Cream A (T0= initial value) with those after 15 minutes (Tl) and 60 minutes (T2) after application and with those after 48 hours (T3) and 7 days (T4) of home treatment with the product.

Figure 8 - Comparison of the data before application of the product Cream B (T0= initial value) with those after 15 minutes (Tl) and 60 minutes (T2) after application and with those after 48 hours (T3) and 7 days (T4) of home treatment with the product.

Figure 9 - Comparison of the hydration data in the area used for the test with the two products (Cream A and Cream B) 15 minutes after application (Tl).

Figures 10 and 11 - Comparison of the hydration data in the area used for the test with the two products (Cream A and Cream B) 60 minutes after application (T2).

Figure 12 - Comparison of the hydration data in the area used for the test with the two products (Cream A and Cream B) after 48 hours of home treatment (T3).

Figures 13 and 14 - Comparison of the hydration data in the area used for the test with the two products (Cream A and Cream B) after 7 days of home treatment.

Figure 15 - Comparison of the TEWL data in the area used for the test with the two products (Cream A and Cream B) before application (T0= initial value).

Figure 16 - Comparison of TEWL data before application (T0= initial value) of the product Cream A with those after 7 days (T4) of home treatment with the same product.

Figure 17 - Comparison of TEWL data before application (T0= initial value) of the product Cream B with those after 7 days (T4) of home treatment with the same product. Figure 18 - Comparison of TEWL data in the area used for the test with the two products (Cream A and Cream B) after 7 days of home treatment (T4).

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The Applicant describes the invention in more detail hereinafter.

Liquid crystal emulsion

As anticipated, the object of the invention is a liquid crystal emulsion, based on natural ingredients or of natural origin, comprising: a fatty phase, at least one alkylpolyglucoside, an aqueous phase.

For the purposes of the present invention and in accordance with standard ISO 16128, "natural ingredient" or "of natural origin" means an ingredient obtained exclusively from plants, animals, microorganisms or minerals, by means of: physical processes (for example, grinding, drying, distillation); fermentation reactions, which occur in nature and lead to naturally- occurring molecules; other preparation processes, including traditional ones (for example, solvent extraction) without intentional chemical modifications. Ingredients obtained from fossil fuels are excluded from the aforesaid definition.

For the purposes of the present invention and in accordance with standard ISO 16128, "derived natural ingredient" means an ingredient which is obtained by chemical and/or biological processes with the intention of chemically modifying them (for example, enzymatic and microbiological processing may give rise to natural ingredients or derived natural ingredients, in which an intentional chemical modification occurs). The degree of natural origin is usually quantified based on the molecular weight or renewable carbon content of an ingredient.

The liquid crystal emulsion of the invention is characterized in that it is substantially natural, i.e., it contains ingredients of natural origin (or natural ingredients) and/or derived natural ingredients in amounts comprised between 90% and 100%, preferably between about 93% and 100%, preferably between about 95% and 100%, preferably between about 97% and 100%, preferably between about 98% and 100% by weight, preferably between 99% and 100% by weight. Alternatively, the liquid crystal emulsion is exclusively natural, i.e., it is characterized by a content of ingredients of natural origin (or natural ingredients) and/or of derived natural ingredients equal to 100% by weight on the total weight of the emulsion.

Furthermore, the liquid crystal emulsion, regardless of the quantity of natural or natural- derived ingredients, preferably does not contain: synthetic polymers; petroleum jelly and/or derivatives thereof; mineral oils. The classes of cosmetic ingredients which most commonly include synthetic polymers include, for example, rheological modifiers (including viscosifiers) or stabilizers. Examples of synthetic polymers preferably not included in the liquid crystal emulsion are: acrylic polymers or copolymers (derivatives of acrylic, methacrylic acid and the like), cellulose ethers, vinyl polymers, alkenic and styrenic copolymers, polyethylene glycol and derivatives (including, for example, also polysorbates, sometimes usable as stabilizers for their solubilizing action), rheological modifiers of mineral/inorganic origin, and mixtures of the foregoing. It should be noted that a person skilled in the art will be able - based on their average knowledge - to identify other classes of synthetic polymers which correspond to those listed and which are, therefore, preferably not included in the emulsion of the invention.

It should be noted that the solid or semi-solid fraction of ingredients included in the fatty phase and as emulsifying agents constitutes a percentage of the emulsion comprised between about 10% and 20% by weight on the total weight of the emulsion. Preferably, such a percentage varies between about 10% and 18%, preferably between about 10% and 15%, preferably between about 11 % and 15% by weight on the total weight of the emulsion.

For the purposes of the present invention, it should be noted that butters, mono- and diglycerides of C12-C22 fatty acids, waxes (where present) and alkylpolyglucosides suitable for the formulation of the liquid crystal emulsion are ingredients in solid or semi-solid form at room temperature. The oils used in the liquid crystal emulsion are instead ingredients in liquid/ oily form at room temperature.

Increasing the amount of solid/semi-solid ingredients is known to improve the stability of the liquid crystal structure, reducing the thermal movement of the molecules. On the other hand, without being bound by any theory, the Applicant considers that a relatively high amount of solid/semi-solid ingredients may compromise the immediate effect of skin hydration. In other words, the Applicant believes that this fine balance between the ingredients in liquid/ oily form and the ingredients in solid/semi-solid form is important for obtaining a liquid crystal emulsion based on natural ingredients, of a stable type, without however sacrificing the advantages related to the immediate hydration effect.

Preferably, the liquid crystal emulsion of the invention is of the oil-in-water (O/W) type.

It should be noted that the liquid crystal emulsion is preferably in a semi-solid or solid form at room temperature. Preferably, the viscosity of the emulsion at room temperature is comprised between about 12,000 and 60,000 cps, preferably between about 13,000 and 50,000 cps, calculated with Brookfield DV2T instrument (digital viscometer model: SC4-34; measurement mode: 15 rpm, 1 min).

Preferably, the emulsion is intended for external topical use, preferably for dermal or skin use.

As will become apparent hereinafter, the liquid crystal emulsion can advantageously constitute a carrier for active ingredients for cosmetic or pharmaceutical use. For this purpose, it should be noted that - when the liquid crystal emulsion contains ceramides and/or cholesterol and/or phytocholesterol - such components are included in the role of active ingredients, but not in the role of emulsifying agents.

In other words, ceramides, cholesterol, phytocholesterol do not contribute, in the purposes of the invention, to the formation of liquid crystals, whose lamellar structure is also realized in their absence (see examples 1 -4, as well as example 7 for which analyses were carried out with an optical microscope under polarized light).

Fatty phase

The fatty phase comprises or consists of

- at least one mono and diglyceride of C12-C22 fatty acids,

- at least one butter,

- at least one oil,

- optionally, at least one wax.

According to a preferred embodiment, the at least one oil and/or the at least one butter contain at least linoleic acid; preferably, the at least one oil and/or the at least one butter contain both linoleic acid and linolenic acid.

It should be noted that for at least one butter; at least one oil; etc., it is meant that one or more oils, one or more butters, one or more waxes, etc. may be included in the fatty phase of the emulsion.

The fatty phase is preferably in an amount comprised between about 12% and 24%, preferably between about 14% and 23%, preferably between about 15% and 22%, preferably between about 15% and 21% by weight on the total weight of the emulsion.

The Applicant believes that the at least one mono- and diglyceride of C12-C22 fatty acids carries out the function of stabilizer and biomimetic: it is believed, in fact, that the ingredient avoids coalescence phenomena, favouring the stability of the multi-lamellar structure and, therefore, of the final composition, even at hot temperatures (40°C±2°C) (figures 4 and 5). The Applicant believes that the at least one wax, optionally present in the liquid crystal emulsion, contributes to improving this stabilizing and biomimetic effect, together with the mono- and diglyceride of fatty acids.

The Applicant has noted that, by means of Bright Field microscopy analysis, the liquid crystal emulsion sample stored for 6 months at 25°C and the one stored for 6 months at about 40°C are both characterized by particles of sizes comprised between 2.5 pm and 5 pm. In the case of the sample stored for 6 months at 25°C, given the greater presence of 5 pm particles, the birefringence effect is more marked, confirming the presence of a liquid crystal emulsion (figures 4 and 5). In the sample stored for 6 months at 40°C, where instead there is a greater presence of small particles, the birefringence effect decreases (Cross Polarization analysis), but it is still remarkable, suggesting the presence of a liquid crystal emulsion even at higher temperatures. It should be noted that preferably the emulsion of the invention does not contain stabilizers and/or rheological modifiers (including, for example, viscosifiers) of synthetic origin. Still preferably, by way of non-limiting example, examples of synthetic stabilizers/rheological modifiers/viscosifiers which are preferably not included in the emulsion of the invention are cellulose ethers; acrylic, methacrylic acid derivatives and the like; vinyl polymers; alkenyl and styrene copolymers; polyethylene glycol and derivatives; rheological modifiers of mineral/inorganic origin; and mixtures of the foregoing. It should be noted that a person skilled in the art will be able - based on their average knowledge - to identify other classes of synthetic stabilizers/rheological modifiers/viscosifiers which correspond to those listed and which are, therefore, preferably not included in the emulsion of the invention.

It should be noted that in cosmetics, "stabilizers" means substances capable of favouring the emulsion and, at the same time, improving the stability of the product and its storage.

“Rheological modifiers” means a group of substances which alter the rheological properties of a material. They are added to cosmetic formulations to increase viscosity and control the properties and characteristics of the finished product. In the world of cosmetics, rheological modifiers are sometimes otherwise referred to as thickeners, since their properties are, in part, overlapping.

"Viscosizers" are rheological modifiers which have the function of modifying the viscosity of systems such as emulsions, suspensions and tensiolites.

In consideration of the above definitions, and the versatility of some of the polymeric materials listed above (which can be used for one or the other purpose depending on the formulation), in the purposes of the present invention, the terms "viscosifiers", "rheological modifiers", "thickeners" and possibly "stabilizers" can be used together in an alternative manner.

Mono- and diglyceride of C12-C22 fatty acids

Mono- and diglycerides of C12-C22 fatty acids means a mixture comprising o/ioglycerides and t/zglycerides of fatty acids having a carbon number comprised between C12 and C22, preferably between C12 and C20, preferably between C12 and Cl 8.

Still preferably, the mono- and diglycerides of C12-C22 fatty acids contain saturated-type fatty acids.

It should be noted that commercially available ingredients which can be classified as “mono- and diglycerides of fatty acids” may contain fractions or traces of tri -glycerides of fatty acids. For example, glyceryl behenate is a fat containing 15-23% monoglycerides, 40-60% diesters, and 21-35% glycerol triesters (Chawla, V., Saraf, S.A. Glyceryl Behenate and Its Suitability for Production of Aceclofenac Solid Lipid Nanoparticles. J Am Oil Chem Soc 88, 119-126 (2011)). Generally, the mono- and diglycerides of fatty acids are ingredients in which the possible percentage of glycerol triesters is less than 50%, (0.5-50%), preferably less than 40% (0.5- 40%), preferably less than 35% (0.5-35%), preferably less than 30% by weight on the total weight of the ingredient (0.1-30%).

It should be noted that the mono- and diglycerides of C12-C22 fatty acids employable for the purposes of the invention are ingredients of natural origin (or natural ingredients) or derived natural ingredients.

Preferably, the at least one mono- and diglyceride of C12-C22 fatty acids is solid or semi-solid at room temperature.

Preferably, the at least one mono- and diglyceride of C12-C22 fatty acids is at concentrations comprised between about 0.5% and 8%, preferably between about 1% and 8%, preferably about 2% and 7%, preferably between about 2% and 5%, preferably about 2%, 3%, 4%, 5% by weight on the total weight of the emulsion.

According to a preferred embodiment, the at least one mono- and diglyceride of C12-C22 fatty acids is selected from the group consisting of: Glyceryl Behenate, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides, and mixtures of the foregoing.

Wax

The fatty phase of the liquid crystal emulsion of the invention preferably contains at least one wax, preferably it contains one or two waxes.

Preferably, the at least one wax suitable for the purposes of the invention is an ingredient of natural origin or a natural ingredient.

Preferably, the at least one wax is solid or semi-solid at room temperature.

Preferably, the melting point of the at least one wax is > 45°C, preferably comprised between about 47°C and 88°C.

Preferably, the at least one wax is in a quantity comprised between about 1% and 10%, preferably between about 2% and 10%, preferably between about 2% and 7%, preferably between about 2% and 5%, preferably between about 2% and 3%, preferably equal to about 2% by weight on the total weight of the emulsion.

Preferably, the at least one wax is selected from the group consisting of: Cetyl Palmitate; Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Jojoba Esters (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (and) Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax (and) Polyglycerin-3 (commercial product example: ACTICIRE® MB); Copemicia Cerifera (Carnauba) wax; Candelilla Cera; Hydrogenated Castor Oil; Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) wax; Beeswax; Cl 0-18 Triglycerides. It should be noted that the at least one wax (when present) and the at least one mono- and diglyceride of C 12-C22 fatty acids are present in a total amount preferably comprised between about 1.5% and 15%, preferably between about 2% and 13%, preferably between about 2% and 10%, preferably between about 2% and 7%, preferably between about 2% and 6%, preferably between about 2% and 5%, preferably equal to about 4% or 5% by weight on the total weight of the emulsion.

The presence of one or more waxes in the liquid crystal emulsion is particularly advantageous to give a pleasant and compact texture to the final product, as well as contributing to the stabilizing and biomimetic effect of the multi-lamellar structure, as already mentioned above.

Butter, oil

In general, butters and oils are glyceride mixtures. Butter and oil differ from each other by the nature of the fatty acids present in the glyceric fraction: in butters, there is a more marked presence of saturated fatty acids, which give the compound melting points above 30°C, preferably between 32°C and 42°C. They have a semi-solid or solid consistency at room temperature; in oils, the unsaturated or, if saturated, fatty acids having a lower carbon number (< C18) lower the melting point and impart a liquid or oily consistency at room temperature.

The liquid crystal emulsion comprises the at least one butter and the at least one oil in a total amount preferably comprised between about 1.5% and 15% by weight, preferably comprised between about 1.5% and 14% by weight, preferably comprised between about 2% and 13% by weight, on the total weight of the emulsion.

The butters suitable for the realization of the invention are ingredients of natural origin or natural ingredients.

Preferably, the at least one butter is solid or semi-solid at room temperature.

Preferably, the at least one butter has a melting temperature comprised between about 30°C and 45°C, preferably between about 32°C and 43°C.

Preferably, the butters employable for the purposes of the invention are mixtures of glycerol esters with saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having chains with a carbon number comprised between C8 and C24, preferably between C12 and C22, preferably between C16 and C20.

Preferably, the at least one butter is in an amount comprised between 1.5% and 4.5% by weight, preferably comprised between 2% and 4% by weight, preferably equal to 3% by weight, on the total weight of the emulsion.

Preferably, the at least one butter is selected from the group consisting of: shea butter (INCI name: Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), illipe butter (INCI name: Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter), cocoa butter, mango butter, babassu butter, and mixtures of the foregoing. Preferably, the fatty phase contains only one type of butter, said butter preferably being chosen from shea butter (INCI name: Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), illipe butter (INCI name: Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter), cocoa butter, mango butter and babassu butter; still preferably from shea butter (INCI name: Butyrospermum Parkii Butter) and illipe butter (INCI name: Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter).

It should be noted that the oils suitable for the realization of the invention are ingredients of natural origin or derived natural ingredients.

According to a preferred form, the at least one oil is in liquid or liquid-viscous (oily) form.

Preferably, the at least one oil is in an amount comprised between about 1.5% and 12% by weight, preferably comprised between about 2% and 10% by weight, preferably equal to about 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9% or 10% by weight, on the total weight of the emulsion.

Preferably, the fatty phase contains two or three different types of oils.

According to a preferred form, the at least one oil is chosen among the following types of oils:

A) vegetable oils, extracted from vegetable sources (natural ingredient) or derived from vegetable oils (derived natural ingredient); and/or

B) triglycerides of saturated fatty acids extracted from vegetable oils, in which the carbon number of the fatty acids is comprised between C8 and CIO.

The oil can be selected from the group consisting of: avocado oil (INCI name: Persea Gratissima oil),' amaranth oil (INCI name: Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Oil),' evening primrose oil (INCI name: Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil),' calendula oil; cranberry oil; currant oil; perilla oil; camellia oil; sea buckthorn oil; linseed oil; chia seed oil; millet oil; almond oil; grapeseed oil; wheat germ oil; olive oil; hemp oil; oat oil; borage oil; Crambe Abyssinica seed oil; coconut oil; preferably coconut oil; palm oil; Caprylyl-Caprylate/Caprate; Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride; and mixtures of the foregoing.

According to a preferred form, the at least one oil is selected from the group consisting of: avocado oil (INCI name: Persea Gratissima oil),' amaranth oil (INCI name: Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Oil); evening primrose oil (INCI name: Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil); Caprylyl-Caprylate/Caprate; Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride; and mixtures of the foregoing.

It should be noted that Caprylyl Caprylate/ Caprate is an example of a derivative of a vegetable oil extracted from plant sources: in fact, this ingredient derives from the esterification of caprylic alcohol with capric and caprylic acids. The esterification of caprylic acid is currently conducted enzymatically, thus ensuring the suitability of the ingredient for the ISO 16128 standard. The person skilled in the art, also in relation to the possibilities of tracking cosmetic ingredients suitable for the purposes of the invention on the market, would have no difficulty finding (natural) alternatives of vegetable oil derivatives, obtained from vegetable sources, to Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate.

It should be noted that Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is an example of saturated fatty acid triglyceride extracted from vegetable oils, whose carbon number of the fatty acids is comprised between C8 and CIO. Preferably, the Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is derived from coconut oil.

Linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid

Preferably, the at least one oil and/or the at least one butter contain linoleic acid.

In fact, the Applicant considers that the presence of at least linoleic acid in the at least one oil and/or in the at least one butter of the fatty phase is functional in conferring moisturising capabilities to the liquid crystal emulsion.

Preferably, the at least one oil and/or the at least one butter contains both linoleic acid and linolenic acid.

Preferably, the linoleic acid is in an amount > 4% by weight on the weight of the at least one oil and/or the at least one butter. The linoleic acid is preferably in an amount comprised between about 4% and 60%, preferably between about 8% and 60%, preferably between about 10% and 60%, preferably between about 10% and 50%, preferably between about 10% and 45%, preferably between about 10% and 40% by weight, on the weight of the at least one oil and/or the at least one butter.

If present, the linolenic acid is in an amount > 0.3% by weight on the weight of the at least one oil and/or the at least one butter. If present, the linolenic acid is preferably in an amount comprised between about 0.3% and 60%, preferably between about 0.5% and 60%, preferably between about 2% and 50%, preferably between about 4% and 50%, preferably between about 8% and 50%, preferably between about 10% and 45%, preferably between about 10% and 40% by weight, on the weight of the at least one oil and/or the at least one butter.

Alkylpolyglucoside (APG)

The liquid crystal emulsion contains an emulsifying agent which, for the purposes of the invention, preferably consists of at least one alkylpolyglucoside (Figure 3).

The at least one alkylpolyglucoside is characterized by an alkyl chain having a carbon number comprised between CIO and C22, preferably comprised between C12 and C22, preferably comprised between C14 and C22, preferably comprised between Cl 6 and C22, preferably comprised between C18 and C22.

Alkylpolyglucosides (or APGs) are non-ionic surfactants, fatty alcohol ethers and glucose oligomers. The hydrophilic part of alkylpolyglucosides derives from carbohydrates, while the hydrophobic part is given by natural sources and/or by some mixtures of fatty alcohols. For the purposes of the invention, the carbohydrates are obtained from maize, wheat and potatoes, while the fatty alcohols are derived from renewable natural resources.

The at least one alkylpolyglucoside is, for the realization of the invention, an ingredient of natural origin or a derived natural ingredient.

Preferably, the at least one alkylpolyglucoside is solid or semi-solid.

Preferably, the at least one alkylpolyglucoside is in an amount comprised between about 1.5% and 23%, preferably between 1.5% and 17%, preferably between 1.5% and 13%, preferably between 1.5% and 10%, preferably between 2% and 10%, preferably between 2% and 7%, preferably between 2% and 5%, preferably between 2% and 4.5%, preferably equal to about 2%, 3% or 4% by weight on the total weight of the emulsion.

The at least one alkylpolyglucoside is preferably selected from the group consisting of (INCI names): Decyl (CIO) Glucoside; Coco (C12) Glucoside; Lauryl (C12) Glucoside; Myristyl (Cl 4) Glucoside; Cetearyl (Cl 6) Glucoside; Arachidyl (C20) Glucoside; a mixture of Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol and Arachidyl Glucoside; a mixture of Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside, and mixtures of the foregoing.

Preferably, the at least one alkylpolyglucoside is a mixture selected from: Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside; and Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside.

Preferably, the emulsion comprises two of the above-mentioned alkylpolyglucosides.

It should be noted that preferably the liquid crystal emulsion of the invention does not contain synthetic surfactants and does not contain ionic surfactants.

Still preferably, the liquid crystal emulsion contains no other non-ionic surfactants beyond the at least one alkylpolyglucoside. By way of non-limiting example, examples of non-ionic surfactants which are preferably not included in the liquid crystal emulsion of the invention are sorbitan esters (Span); ethoxylated sorbitan esters (Tween); ethoxylated fatty acids; ethoxylated monoglycerides; sucrose esters; ethoxylated methylglucose esters, polyoxyethylene ethers. An average person skilled in the art will be able to identify, based on their technical knowledge, other non-ionic surfactants equivalent to those listed above and, therefore, preferably not included in the liquid crystal emulsion of the invention.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the at least one alkylpolyglucoside is the only surfactant contained in the liquid crystal emulsion.

Preferably, the weight ratio of the at least one alkylpolyglucoside to the aqueous phase or, preferably, of the at least one alkylpolyglucoside to water is comprised between about 1: 15 and 1 :37, preferably between about 1 : 16 and 1 :36, preferably between about 1 : 17 and 1 :35, preferably between about 1 : 17 and 1 :25, preferably between about 1 : 17 and 1 :20, preferably between about 1 : 17.5 and 1: 19.5. Aqueous phase

The aqueous phase comprises at least water; the aqueous phase can consist of water alone.

Preferably, the water is in an amount comprised between about 65% and 85%, preferably between about 66% and 83%, preferably between about 67% and 80%, preferably between about 69% and 79% by weight on the total weight of the emulsion.

The weight ratio of the fatty phase to the aqueous phase is preferably comprised between about 1 :2.5 and 1:6, preferably between about 1 :3 and 1 :5.5, preferably between about 1:3 and 1 :5, preferably between about 1:3 and 1 :4.7, preferably comprised between about 1 :3.5 and 1 :4.8, preferably between about 1 :4 and 1 :4.8.

According to a preferred embodiment, the aqueous phase comprises, in addition to water, also other technological ingredients. Such technological ingredients are preferably chosen from viscosifiers (for example xanthan gum), humectants (for example glycerin), chelators (for example sodium gluconate), preservatives.

Preferably, the preservative is an ingredient of natural origin or a derived natural ingredient or non-natural (synthetic) ingredient, preferably selected from the group consisting of: Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, 1,2 Heptanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Citrus Reticulata Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara Fruit Extract, Citrus Sinensis Peel Extract, Ascorbic acid, Citric acid, Lactic acid, Hydroxyacetophenone, Glucodeltalactone, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate, and mixtures of the foregoing. Preferably the preservative is natural; preferably, the preservative is Pentylene Glycol.

The preservative is preferably not grapefruit extract (INCI name: Citrus Paradisi Seed Oil (Grapefruit seed oil)), as the Applicant believes that it impacts on the stability of the liquid crystal emulsion.

Other ingredients

The emulsion can contain at least one pH modifier, preferably a (single type of) pH modifier; preferably, the pH modifier is selected from: lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, sodium hydroxide.

Preferably, the liquid crystal emulsion of the invention comprises or consists of: the fatty phase, the at least one alkylpolyglucoside, the aqueous phase, at least one pH modifier, in which the fatty phase, the at least one alkylpolyglucoside, the aqueous phase are as described above.

Process for preparing the emulsion

A further object of the invention is a process for preparing the liquid crystal emulsion, preferably operating under vacuum, comprising the following steps: a) arranging the aqueous phase, the aqueous phase in this step being deprived of any thermolabile ingredients; b) heating the aqueous phase to a temperature comprised between about 70°C and 80°C, preferably between about 72°C and 80°C, preferably between about 75°C and 80°C, preferably between about 78°C and 80°C, preferably equal to about 80°C; b) separately, preferably in a melter with heating jacket, joining, in order:

- the at least one oil,

- the at least one mono- and diglyceride of C12-C22 fatty acids,

- the at least one butter,

- the at least one alkylpolyglucoside, to obtain the fatty phase with the at least one alkylpolyglucoside added, c) heating the fatty phase with the at least one alkylpolyglucoside added, preferably at a temperature comprised between about 75°C and 85°C, preferably equal to about 85°C, until a molten fatty mass is obtained; d) combining the molten fatty mass, the latter preferably at about 85°C, and the aqueous phase, the latter preferably at about 80°C, under stirring, to obtain a final mixture; e) cooling the final mixture under stirring, to a temperature below 30°C, preferably between 23°C and 28°C, preferably between 25°C and 28°C. f) optionally, adding any thermolabile ingredients.

Optionally, the waxes, if present, are added to the emulsion during the step of joining the at least one alkylpolyglucoside and the ingredients of the fatty phase (b), preferably after the addition of the at least one oil and before the addition of the at least one mono- and diglyceride of C12-C22 fatty acids.

Preferably, the step of preparing the aqueous phase (a) is conducted with the use of a turbine. In preparing the aqueous phase, it should be noted that the objective is to obtain a complete dissolution of the ingredients possibly contained therein.

According to a preferred embodiment, the step of joining the molten fatty mass to the aqueous phase (d) comprises the further steps of:

- homogenizing the final mixture, preferably by using a turbine.

Such a homogenization step is preferably conducted for a period of time of at least 15 minutes, preferably comprised between 15 and 45 minutes, preferably between 15 and 30 minutes, preferably about 15 minutes. According to a preferred embodiment, the process of preparing the liquid crystal emulsion is also employable for the preparation of a composition comprising or consisting of the liquid crystal emulsion.

Preferably, where the fatty phase comprises one or more (non-thermolabile) active ingredients, such as ceramides, the step of combining the fatty ingredients with the emulsifying agent (b) comprises a further step of adding the one or more (non-thermolabile) active ingredients.

Preferably, where the aqueous phase comprises one or more non-thermolabile active ingredients, such as sodium hyaluronate or tamarind seeds, the step of preparing the aqueous phase (a) comprises a further step of adding one or more (non-thermolabile) active ingredients.

Preferably, the optional step of adding any thermolabile ingredients (f) can be followed by a mixing step, preferably by means of a machine provided with blades, preferably for a time comprised between 10 and 30 minutes, preferably for 15 minutes.

It should be noted that, in the 48-72 hours following the preparation of the aforesaid emulsion, the relative viscosity gradually increases, indicating that the emulsion is stabilizing and structuring.

It should be noted that the preparation under vacuum of the emulsion or the composition including it is useful to remove, partially or totally, the air from the emulsion, reducing the oxidation mechanisms.

Compositions containing the liquid crystal emulsion

The liquid crystal emulsion of the invention is employable in the preparation of cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions for external topical use, preferably for dermal or skin use.

The compositions containing or consisting of the liquid crystal emulsion, whether cosmetic or pharmaceutical, preferably contain an amount of ingredients of natural origin preferably comprised between 90% and 100% by weight, preferably between 93% and 100% by weight, preferably between 95% and 100% by weight, preferably between 97% and 100% by weight, preferably between 99% and 100% by weight, on the total weight of the composition.

It is preferably noted that the compositions obtainable using the liquid crystal emulsion, whether cosmetic or pharmaceutical, do not contain: synthetic polymers, preferably do not contain acrylic polymers (derivatives of acrylic, methacrylic acid and the like), cellulose ethers, vinyl polymers, alkenic and styrenic copolymers, polyethylene glycol derivatives, rheological modifiers of mineral/inorganic origin and mixtures of the foregoing; nor petroleum jelly and/or derivatives thereof; nor mineral oils.

The compositions obtainable using the liquid crystal emulsion can contain at least one perfume or aroma, preferably of natural origin or as a derived natural ingredient. Moisturising cosmetic composition

A further object of the invention is a moisturising cosmetic composition consisting of the liquid crystal emulsion, in which no active ingredients for cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical use are present.

In particular, the moisturising cosmetic composition is characterized in that: the at least one butter and the at least one oil constitute the active ingredients of the moisturising cosmetic composition, and the composition does not comprise further active ingredients for cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical use.

Moisturising cosmetic composition refers to a composition which, even in the absence of active ingredients for cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical use, has an occlusive power, that is, it is capable of stabilizing or favouring the hydration of the skin, reducing the evaporation of skin surface water.

Preferably, the moisturising cosmetic composition is in a solid or semi-solid form.

Preferably, the moisturising cosmetic composition is for skin use.

Cosmetic composition

A further object of the invention is a generic cosmetic composition comprising or consisting of

- a carrier for active ingredients consisting of the liquid crystal emulsion of the invention,

- hydrophilic and/or lipophilic active ingredients, preferably chosen from the group consisting of: antioxidants or anti-ageing agents; moisturisers; depigmenting agents; sebum regulators and soothing agents for impure skin; sunscreen or after-sun protection factors; soothing agents; anti-redness agents; restructuring agents for sensitive skin; mixtures of the foregoing.

- suitable excipients and/or diluents.

The hydrophilic and/or lipophilic active ingredients are preferably of natural origin or derived natural ingredients. Preferably, the amount of hydrophilic and/or lipophilic active ingredients is comprised between 0.05% and 3.5% by weight, preferably between 0.15% and 3.5% by weight, preferably between 0.2% and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 2.7% by weight, preferably between 0.7% and 2.5% by weight, preferably between 0.7% and 0.2% by weight, on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the active ingredients comprised in the cosmetic composition are selected from the group consisting of: diglycerin; high, medium and low molecular weight sodium hyaluronate; hydrolysed sodium hyaluronate; sodium PCA (pyroglutamic acid); polyols; peptides; carnosine; beta-glucan and salts thereof; vitamin E; vitamin C and water-soluble and fat- soluble derivatives thereof; nicotinamide; panthenol; vitamin F; botanical extracts high in flavonoids, polyphenols, tannins, polysaccharides; Zinc PCA (pyroglutamic acid); urea; AHA (alpha hydroxyacids); BHA (beta hydroxyacids); escin; ceramides; sphingolipids; cholesterol; phytocholesterol; tyndallized lactic ferments; amino acids; vitamin A; Bakuchiol; Cannabiol; Bisabololol; prebiotics; postbiotics; algae and related extracts; lipoic acid; coenzyme Q10; GABA; glutathione; mother tinctures; meristematic plant cells; mineral salts; liposomes; ectoin; Glycerin Glucoside; Maltooligosyl Glucoside; oligosaccharides; polysaccharides; Tamarind seeds; Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate; palmitoylethanolamide (PEA); Madecacoxide; Asiaticoside; Troxrutin; Rutin; Alpha-Arbutin; Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch, and mixtures of the foregoing.

For the purposes of the invention, suitable excipients and/or diluents are understood as substances known to the person skilled in the art which allow to obtain, stabilize and/or modify the properties of a technological or pharmaceutical form. For example, suitable excipients and/or diluents, preferably for solid or semi-solid dosage forms, are selected from the group consisting of: viscosifiers, humectants, absorbents, colourants, perfumes, aromatizing agents, antioxidants, preservatives, antimicrobials, stabilizers, pH modifiers, and combinations of the foregoing.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition is in solid or semi-solid form.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition is for skin use.

The cosmetic composition differs from the aforementioned moisturising cosmetic composition in that it contains other components with respect to the liquid crystal emulsion and in that it can be articulated, in cosmetic uses, depending on the active ingredients which can be carried in the emulsion itself.

Pharmaceutical composition for medical use

As mentioned above, a further object of the invention is a pharmaceutical composition for medical use comprising or consisting of

- a carrier for active ingredients consisting of the above emulsion;

- hydrophilic and/or lipophilic active ingredients, preferably chosen from: anti-itch, healing, anti-acne, depigmenting, steroid or cortisone anti-inflammatories, non-steroid antiinflammatories, antihistamines, anaesthetics; active ingredients for dermatitis (radiodermatitis, atopic dermatitis and contact dermatitis); active ingredients for sensitive skin with eczema or eczema tendency;

- suitable excipients and/or diluents.

The hydrophilic and/or lipophilic active ingredients are preferably of natural origin or derived natural ingredients. Preferably, the amount of hydrophilic and/or lipophilic active ingredients is comprised between about 0.05% and 7% by weight, preferably between about 0.05% and 5%, preferably between about 0.05% and 3.5%, preferably between about 0. 15% and 3.5% by weight, preferably between about 0.2% and 3% by weight, preferably between about 0.5% and 2.7% by weight, preferably between about 0.7% and 2.5% by weight, preferably between about 0.7% and 0.2% by weight, on the total weight of the composition.

Suitable excipients and/or diluents are intended as those described for the cosmetic composition of the previous section.

Preferably, the pharmaceutical composition is in a solid or semi-solid form.

Preferably, the pharmaceutical composition is for skin use.

Preferably, the pharmaceutical composition is for use in the treatment of a skin disorder or disease selected from the group consisting of: eczema, radiodermatitis, atopic dermatitis, seborrhoeic dermatitis, contact dermatitis, psoriasis, erythema, skin infections, actinic (or solar) keratosis, wounds and abrasions, acne, rosacea and combinations of the foregoing.

EXAMPLES

Below the Applicant reports examples of the invention, merely for illustrative and non-limiting purposes.

Example 1 - Liquid crystal emulsifier composition, with moisturising function.

Preparation process: a. Set up the product by operating under vacuum; b. Dissolve the following non-thermolabile ingredients in water: Xanthan gum, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Gluconate. c. Heat the aqueous phase obtained from b. to 80°C; d. Separately mix the Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride oils; e. Add to the mixture obtained from d. the fats Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides, Glyceryl Behenate f. Add the Butyrospermum parkii butter to the mixture obtained from e. g. Add to the mixture obtained from f. the emulsifiers Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside; h. Heat the oily phase obtained from g. to 85°C; i. Add to the oily phase obtained from h. the aqueous phase obtained from c. and homogenize by means of a turbine for at least 15 minutes; j. Cool the system under stirring to a temperature below 30°C. k. Add lactic acid.

Example 2 - Liquid crystal emulsifier composition, with moisturising function.

Preparation process: a. Set up the product by operating under vacuum; b. Dissolve the following non-thermolabile ingredients in water: Xanthan gum, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Gluconate; c. Heat the aqueous phase obtained from b. to 80°C; d. Separately mix the Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride oils; e. Add to the mixture obtained from d. the fats Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides, Glyceryl Behenate; f. Add the Butyrospermum parkii butter to the mixture obtained from e. g. Add to the mixture obtained from f. the emulsifiers Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside; h. Heat the oily phase obtained from g. to 85°C; i. Add to the oily phase obtained from h. the aqueous phase obtained from c. and homogenize by means of a turbine for at least 15 minutes; j. Cool the system under stirring to a temperature below 30°C; k. Add lactic acid.

Example 3 - Liquid crystal emulsifier composition, with moisturising function.

Preparation process: a. Set up the product by operating under vacuum; b. Dissolve the following non-thermolabile ingredients in water: Xanthan gum, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Gluconate; c. Heat the aqueous phase obtained from b. to 80°C; d. Separately mix the Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride oils; e. Add to the mixture obtained from d. the fats Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides, Glyceryl Behenate; f. Add to the mixture obtained from e. Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter; g. Add to the mixture obtained from f. the emulsifiers Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside; h. Heat the oily phase obtained from g. to 85°C; i. Add to the oily phase obtained from h. the aqueous phase obtained from c. and homogenize by means of a turbine for at least 15 minutes; j. Cool the system under stirring to a temperature below 30°C; k. Add lactic acid.

Example 4 - Liquid crystal cosmetic composition, with the addition of active ingredients, with moisturising and anti-ageing effect.

Preparation process: a. Set up the product by operating under vacuum; b. Dissolve the following non-thermolabile ingredients in water: Xanthan gum, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Hyaluronate and Tamarindus Indica Seed Polysaccharide; c. Operate the turbine until the components are completely solubilized; d. Heat the aqueous phase obtained from b. to 80°C; e. Separately mix the Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride oils; f. Add to the mixture obtained from d. the fats Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides, Glyceryl Behenate; g. Add the Butyrospermum parkii butter to the mixture obtained from e. h. Add to the mixture obtained from f. the emulsifiers Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside; i. Heat the oily phase obtained from g. to 85°C; j. Add to the oily phase obtained from h. the aqueous phase obtained from c. and homogenize by means of a turbine for at least 15 minutes; k. Cool the system under stirring to a temperature below 30°C; l. Add lactic acid.

Example 5 - Liquid crystal cosmetic composition, with the addition of active ingredients, with moisturising and soothing effect.

Preparation process: a. Set up the product by operating under vacuum; b. Dissolve the following non-thermolabile ingredients in water: Xanthan gum, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Gluconate; c. Heat the aqueous phase obtained from b. to 80°C; d. Separately mix the Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride oils; e. Add to the mixture obtained from d. the fats Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides, Glyceryl Behenate; f. Add the Butyrospermum parkii butter to the mixture obtained from e. g. Add to the mixture obtained from f. the emulsifiers Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside; h. Add the ceramide; i. Heat the oily phase obtained from g. to 85°C; j. Add to the oily phase obtained from h. the aqueous phase obtained from c. and homogenize by means of a turbine for at least 15 minutes; k. Cool the system under stirring to a temperature below 30°C; l. Add Rosa Chinensis Callus Lysate when T<30°C; m. Operate the mixing blades for 15 minutes; n. Add lactic acid.

Example 6 - Liquid crystal cosmetic composition, with the addition of active ingredients, with anti-ageing, moisturising and plumping effect.

Preparation process: a. Set up the product by operating under vacuum; b. Dissolve the following non-thermolabile ingredients in water: Xanthan gum, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Hyaluronate; c. Heat the aqueous phase obtained from b. to 80°C; d. Separately mix the Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride oils; e. Add to the mixture obtained from d. the fats Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides, Glyceryl Behenate; f. Add to the mixture obtained from e. Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter; g. Add to the mixture obtained from f. the emulsifiers Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside; h. Heat the oily phase obtained from g. to 85°C; i. Add to the oily phase obtained from h. the aqueous phase obtained from c. and homogenize by means of a turbine for at least 15 minutes; j. Cool the system under stirring to a temperature below 30°C; k. Add water (and) Beta-Glucan when T<30°C; l. m. Operate the mixing blades for 15 minutes. m. Add lactic acid.

Example 7 - Comparison test between: natural cream and synthetic cream.

The structure of the liquid crystal emulsifier of the invention, in solid or semi-solid form (cream) ("CL NATURAL CREAM, CLN"), was compared with a composition of ingredients of synthetic origin ("CL SYNTHETIC CREAM, CLS"). In particular, the fatty phase was replaced with one or more ingredients of synthetic origin. The two formulations are shown below:

- CL SYNTHETIC CREAM, CLS with a mineral oil, petroleum jelly oil (table 1);

- CL NATURAL CREAM, CLN with natural oils (table 2).

Table 1 - CL formula without natural oils not having a multi-lamellar structure CLS.

Table 2 - CL Eormula with natural oils having a multi-lamellar structure CLN.

The verification of the multi-lamellar structure was obtained by optical microscope analysis under polarized light. The structure of the liquid crystal cream refracts the light of the microscope, generating a birefringence. Thanks to the birefringence, an image visible under the microscope is generated: the structure of the cream is represented by a particular Maltese-cross shape (Eigure 1). The structure of traditional emulsions, however, not allowing birefringence, generates a totally black image (not shown).

Example 8 - Comparison test between: cream deprived of acrylic polymers and cream stabilized with acrylic polymers. In order to evaluate the uniqueness of the following invention, the efficacy of the liquid crystal cream composition, stabilized with acrylic polymers (Cream or product A (placebo), table 3) was investigated in comparison with a composition object of the present patent application (Cream or product B, table 4), containing natural stabilizers and oils rich in fatty acids. The two emulsions were both obtained with APG emulsifiers, alkylpolyglucosides, but differ by: - Cream B: stabilized with waxes and fats (to be understood as mono- and diglycerides of fatty acids); vs Cream A: stabilized with synthetic polymer;

- Cream A and B: both have eudermic oils, but B also has an oil and a butter rich in fatty acids;

- Cream B: preserved with natural preservative; vs Cream A: preserved with synthetic preservative; Table 3 - Composition Cream A (placebo).

Table 4 - Composition Cream B of the invention.

8.1 VOLUNTEER SELECTION

8.1.1 Recruitment and admission criteria

The test was carried out in accordance with the Helsinki Declaration on 20 volunteers, average age 37. 1 years. The subjects were informed of the nature, purpose, and risks of the study and were required to give their written consent before participating in the test.

Inclusion criteria: Caucasian subjects; male and female volunteers between 18 and 65 years of age, in good general health with generally dry skin; subjects capable of following all the instructions of the study and to committing to carry out the scheduled appointments for the entire duration of the study; subjects who give their informed consent; subjects who avoid exposure to UV rays and who do not carry out tanning sessions during the study period.

Exclusion criteria: pregnant or breastfeeding women; subjects with a history of particular skin reactions to cosmetics, detergents or with sensitivity to one of the components of the products; subjects who take topical or systemic drugs which can interfere with the test results (antiinflammatory agents, cortisone, etc.); subjects who have systemic diseases or skin disorders (eczema, psoriasis, dermatitis, etc.); subjects who have used similar treatments in the 40 days prior to the start of this study (neither topical nor systemic); subjects who have participated in other similar studies in the previous 30 days.

Discontinuation/interruption of subject particination: free choice of subject; medical reasons unrelated to treatment (e.g., onset of disease, surgery); reasons related to treatment (e.g., irritation or allergic reactions). Each case of discontinuation will be detailed in the study. One subject discontinued treatment for personal reasons arising after the start of the test, but not related to the products used. The measurement data from this subject, initially collected, were not included in the statistical evaluation. Restrictions: during the study, subjects were instructed to continue practising arm hygiene according to their habits and not to apply the test products in parts other than those prescribed. Throughout the duration of the test, the subjects were prohibited from using products other than those provided on the arms and from being exposed to UV rays.

8.2 INSTRUMENTSAND PARAMETERS

Skin hydration with MoistureMeterSC. Delfin - Measuring skin hydration at the stratum comeum level is one of the most measured properties. Skin is an electrically layered structure. The electrical properties of these layers are related to their water content. The probe head of the MoistureMeterSC, the surface of the skin and the deeper layers of the skin form a layered structure, similar to an electrical capacitor. The measurement of the capacity is proportional to the water content of the skin surface layer. A higher measured value indicates a higher moisture content of the stratum comeum. The measurement values of MoistureMeterSC are arbitrary units and are a combination of the dielectric constant and the different thickness of the stratum comeum. This makes skin hydration measurements extremely sensitive and reproducible. The effectiveness of a product in increasing skin hydration is evidenced by the increase in the hydration value at each control time and at the end of the treatment.

Skin water loss with VapoMeter, Delfin - Trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) is a key indicator of skin barrier function and the ability to measure it accurately is essential in a wide range of clinical and personal care applications. The VapoMeter measures the trans-epidermal water loss as evaporation rate in g/m²h. The core of the VapoMeter is a moisture sensor located inside a cylindrical measuring chamber. This measuring chamber is closed by the skin during measurements and is thus not affected by ambient air flows. The sensor monitors the increase in relative humidity (RH) inside the chamber during the measurement step and the evaporation rate value (g/m²h) is automatically calculated by the increase of the RH. The effectiveness of a product as a skin protector is evidenced by a decrease in the TEWL value at the end of the treatment.

8.3 METHOD

The instrumental measurements were performed in a room with controlled temperature and humidity (24± 2°C; 50 ± 10% RH). The volunteers were asked to wash their forearm at least two hours prior to taking the measurements and not to apply cosmetics for at least two hours prior to taking the measurements and not to apply cosmetics for at least 12 hours prior to taking the measurements. The test was carried out in a blind, randomized, placebo-controlled fashion.

Application method: apply on a perfectly clean area of 9 cm² of the inner forearm; apply 2 mg/cm² of product and massage until completely absorbed. The application side of the products (right and left forearm) was randomized among subjects. On the first day of the study, the measurements were carried out at TO, i.e., before the application of the products, both for hydration and for TEWL. Subsequently, hydration measurements were taken: 15 minutes (Tl) and 60 minutes (T2) after the first application.

The volunteers applied the active product (Cream B) and the placebo (Cream A) twice a day, for a total of 7 days. After 48 hours (T3) and after 7 days (T4) of home treatment, hydration measurements were taken. At time T4, the TEWL measurement was also taken.

The obtained data were statistically processed using the statistical program R-studio. The data normality was verified by means of Shapiro-Wilk tests. For significance analyses, the Friedman test was applied, followed by the Wilcoxon test for the Holm-corrected paired data, to consider repeat measurements for the TEWL hydration measurement data. In all cases, the significance was set to p <0.05.

It should be noted that, for the purposes of the present study, the "boxplot" diagrams in figures 6-18 highlight the distribution of the data collected. The points indicated in the graph represent the single recorded values. The boxplot area contains 50% of the observations; the row, which divides the box, represents the median value of the distribution.

9. Hydration results

Skin surface hydration is a function of both the moisture retained in the stratum comeum and the thickness of the dry stratum comeum.

9.1 Hydration before application of Cream A and Cream B

Comparison of the hydration data on the area used for the tests with the two products (Cream A and Cream B), before application (TO = initial value) (Figure 6).

Since the p-value = 1.0, it can be concluded that there is no significant difference in the mean hydration value between the two zones, thus it is accepted that the data at the initial time (TO) are the same for the two zones before the application of the products. It is thereby possible to compare the measurements made on the two areas at different treatment times.

9.2 Hydration of the area treated with Cream A (placebo)

Below is the comparison of the data before product application (T0= initial value) with those 15 minutes (Tl) and 60 minutes (T2) after application and with those after 48 hours (T3) and 7 days (T4) of home treatment with the product (Figure 7). 9.2.1 Comparison of initial data (TO. A) and those 15 minutes after application of product Cream A (Tl.A):

15 minutes after the application of product A, since the p-value = 1.00, it can be concluded that there is no significant change in the average hydration value and it is thus accepted that the data related to this value 15 minutes after the application of cream A are the same as those before the application.

9.2.2 Comparison of initial data (TO. A) and those 60 minutes after application of product A (T2.A):

60 minutes after the application of product A, since the p-value = 1.00, it can be concluded that there is no significant change in the average hydration value and it is thus accepted that the data related to this value 60 minutes after the application of cream A are the same as those before the application.

9.2.3 Comparison of initial data (TO.A) and those after 48 hours of treatment with product A (T3.A):

After 48 hours of home treatment with product A, since the p-value = 1.00, it can be concluded that there is no significant change in the mean hydration value and it is thus accepted that the data related to this value after 48 hours of home treatment with cream A are the same as those before the first application.

9.2.4 Comparison between initial data (TO.A) and those after 7 days of treatment with product (T4.A):

After 7 days of home treatment with product A, since the p-value = 0.31, it can be concluded that there is no significant change in the mean hydration value and it is thus accepted that the data related to this value after 7 hours of home treatment with cream A are the same as those before the first application.

9.2.5 Comparison of the data from 15 minutes after the application of product A (Tl.A) with those after 7 days of home treatment with product A (T4.A):

Since p-value = 0.040, it can be concluded that there is a significant difference in the mean hydration value of the area treated with product A for 15 minutes and for 7 days and it is thus accepted that the data related to such a value after 15 minutes from the first application are different from those after 7 days of home treatment.

9.2.6 Comparison of the data from 60 minutes after the application of product A (T2.A) with those after 7 days of home treatment (T4.A):

Since p-value = 0.023, it can be concluded that there is a significant difference in the mean hydration value of the area treated with product A for 60 minutes and for 7 days and it is thus accepted that the data related to such a value after 60 minutes from the first application are different from those after 7 days of home treatment.

Note: the mean hydration value of the area treated with cream A for 7 days is the lowest among all the average hydration data recorded.

9.3 Hydration of the area treated with Cream B of the invention

Comparison of the data before product application (TO = initial value) with those 15 minutes (Tl) and 60 minutes (T2) after application and with those after 48 hours (T3) and 7 days (T4) of home treatment with the product of the invention (Figure 8). 9.3.1 Comparison of initial data (TO.B) with those after 15 minutes of product application (Tl.B):

15 minutes after the application of product B, since p-value = 0.012, it can be concluded that there is a significant change in the mean hydration value and it is thus accepted that the data related to such a value after 15 minutes are different from those before the application.

The average increase in the Hydration value between TO and T1 corresponds to +31%. 95% of the volunteers showed a significant improvement in the Hydration parameter (increase) at 15 minutes after application of cream B with respect to the initial time.

9.3.2 Comparison of initial data (TO.B) with those after 60 minutes of product application (T2.B):

60 minutes after the application of product B, since p-value = 0.003, it can be concluded that there is a significant change in the mean hydration value and it is thus accepted that the data related to such a value after 60 minutes are different from those before the application.

The average increase in the Hydration value between TO and T2 corresponds to +27%. 84% of the volunteers showed a significant improvement in the Hydration parameter (increase) at

60 minutes after application of cream B with respect to the initial time.

9.3.3 Comparison of initial data (TO.B) with those after 48 hours of treatment with the product (T3.B):

After 48 hours of treatment with product B, since p-value = 0.030, it can be concluded that there is a significant change in the mean hydration value and it is thus accepted that the data related to such a value after 48 hours of treatment are different from those before application.

The average increase in the Hydration value between TO and T3 corresponds to +36%. 84% of the volunteers showed a significant improvement in the Hydration parameter (increase) after 48 hours of treatment with cream B with respect to the initial time.

9.3.4 Comparison of initial data (TO.B) with those after 7 days of treatment with the product (T4.B):

After 7 days of treatment with the product, since p-value < 0.001, it can be concluded that there is a significant change in the mean hydration value and it is thus accepted that the data related to such a value after 7 days are different from those before application.

The average increase in the Hydration value between TO and T4 corresponds to +22%. 68% of the volunteers showed a significant improvement in the Hydration parameter (increase) after 7 days of treatment with cream B with respect to the initial time.

9.4 Comparison of hydration data of treatment with Cream A (placebo) versus treatment with Cream B of the invention

9.4.1 Comparison of data after 15 minutes from the application (Tl) of the two products:

15 minutes after the first application, since p-value = 0.12, it can be concluded that there is no significant change in the mean hydration value and it is thus accepted that the data related to such a value 15 minutes after the application of cream A are the same as those 15 minutes after the application of cream B (Figure 9).

9.4.2 Comparison of data after 60 minutes from the application (T2) of the two products:

60 minutes after the first application of the two products, since p-value = 0.005, it can be concluded that there is a significant variation in the mean hydration value between the two products and it is thus accepted that the data related to such a value after 60 minutes are different between the application area of cream A with respect to the application area of cream B (Figure 10).

The mean hydration obtained with cream B exceeds that obtained with cream A after 60 minutes of application by 13%. 84% of the volunteers showed significantly higher hydration in the area treated with cream B with respect to the area treated with cream A 60 minutes after the first application (Figure 11).

9.4.3 Comparison of the data after 48 hours of home treatment fT3) of the two products:

After 48 hours of home treatment, since p-value = 0.12, it can be concluded that there is no significant change in the mean hydration value and it is thus accepted that the data related to such a value after 48 hours of treatment with cream A are the same after 48 hours of treatment with cream B (Figure 12).

9.4.5 Comparison of hydration data after 7 days of home treatment with the two products

After 7 days of home treatment with the two products, since p-value = 0.006, it can be concluded that there is a significant variation in the mean hydration value between the two products and it is thus accepted that the data related to such a value after 7 days are different between the application area of cream A with respect to the application area of cream B (Figure 13). The mean hydration obtained with cream B exceeds that obtained with cream A after 7 days of home treatment by +32%. 95% of the volunteers showed significantly higher hydration in the area treated with cream B with respect to the area treated with cream A after 7 days of home treatment (Figure 14).

10. TEWL results

Measurement of TEWL is an indicator of the integrity of the skin functional barrier.

10.1 TEWL before first product application (forearm area)

Comparison of the initial data (TO) of the areas used for treatment with the two products (Cream A - placebo - and Cream B of the invention):

Since p-value = 0.93, it can be concluded that there is no significant difference in the mean TEWL value between the two areas and it is thus accepted that the initial time data (TO) are the same for the two areas before the application of the products. This allows to compare the measurements taken on the two areas at different treatment times (Figure 15).

10.2 TEWL of the area treated with Cream A (placebo)

Comparison of the data before product application (TO = initial value) with those after 7 days (T4) of home treatment with the product Cream A (placebo).

After 7 days of home treatment with product A, since p-value = 0.30, it can be concluded that there is no significant change in the mean TEWL value and it is thus accepted that the data related to such a value after 7 days of home treatment with cream A are the same as before application (Figure 16).

10.3 TEWL of the area treated with Cream B of the invention

Comparison of the data before product application (TO = initial value) with those after 7 days (T4) of home treatment with the product Cream B of the invention.

After 7 days of home treatment with product B, since p-value = 0.12, it can be concluded that there is no significant change in the mean TEWL value and it is thus accepted that the data related to such a value after 7 days of home treatment with cream B are the same as before application (Figure 17).

10.4 Comparison of TEWL data from Cream A (placebo) and Cream B of the invention

Comparison of the data after 7 days of home treatment (T4) with the two products (Cream A placebo and Cream B of the invention):

After 7 days of home treatment, since p-value = 1.00, it can be concluded that there is no significant change in the mean value of TEWL and it is thus accepted that the data related to such a value after 7 days of home treatment with cream A are the same after 7 days of home treatment with cream B (Figure 18).

11. CONCLUSIONS

The instrumental measurements at 15 minutes and 60 minutes after first application and after 48 hours and 7 days of home treatment show the following results:

- Cream B of the invention: significant increase in skin hydration value 15 minutes after cream application, as well as after 48 hours of home treatment with the cream.

- Cream B of the invention: significant increase in skin hydration value 60 minutes after cream application and a significant difference with Cream A (placebo); again for Cream B, a significant increase in skin hydration value after 7 days of home treatment with the cream and a significant difference with Cream A (placebo).

Example 9 - Patch test

The patch test is one of the methods which allows the in vivo evaluation of the irritant potential of a product, in order to be able to define it as non-irritating on human skin.

A known amount of product to be tested is applied to the skin by means of a suitable device and kept in place for a certain time, depending on the type of product. After the established period, the device is removed and any irritative phenomena are evaluated over time. In order to evaluate, in addition to the irritant potential of a product, also the sensitising potential, the patch tests are repeated in subsequent sequences: repeated patch tests. For solar products, photo-patch tests are carried out, through which the product is irradiated with UVA and UVB rays and then placed in contact with the human skin.

The primary objective of the present clinical trial is to evaluate the irritant potential of the cosmetic product After-sun cream. The safety of the product was evaluated by verifying the non-occurrence of erythema and oedema.

Product composition After-sun cream tested for patch test:

A clinical trial was then conducted on 27 enrolled subjects.

Specific end-point variables (qualitative) were analysed before and after application of the product to the skin by means of a suitable device.

The results obtained demonstrate that the cosmetic product was found to be non-irritating, the primary objective of the trial.

The safety assessment of the product was carried out by analysing the results obtained following the application of the product on the skin, using a suitable device. Sampling numbers - Considering the type of product under analysis and the objective of the trial, i.e., the standard evaluation of the irritant potential of a product, maximizing the certainty of the result, a number of subjects to be recruited for the study equal to 27 was determined, assuming: as clinically relevant a difference of erythema/oedema pre -post patch of at least 0.5 with a standard deviation of 0.6 such as to indicate that the substance is an irritant; a first type error a equal to 0.01; a power of 95%. The software G*power, version 3. 1.9.2, was used to calculate the sample number.

Inclusion criteria: subjects with sensitive skin; both female and male; age between 18 and 60 years; primary end-point variables erythema and oedema of the degree "absent: 0"; absence of known chronic and/or acute pathologies/absence of psychological and/or cognitive disorders; absence of dermatological and allergological pathologies (cosmetological or other specific excipients) or other pathologies (type of irritative reactions of unknown origin); absence of pharmacological treatments in place which may affect the outcome of the test; non- participation in other clinical studies in the previous 30 days; obtaining informed consent.

Exclusion criteria: pregnancy/breastfeeding.

The evaluation was carried out at the clinical level by the doctor responsible for the trial, taking into account factors such as capillary fragility and the tendency of the skin to become red, irritated and flaky with particular ease. Trial outline:

Qualitative endpoints: Erythema/Oedema (clinical evaluation by direct visual analysis). The variables were evaluated by the professionals responsible for the trial, according to the following rating scale:

The qualitative endpoint sample data were described using the usual location and dispersion measurements: median and interquartile range. Furthermore, the absolute frequencies of the judgements expressed at each observation time were summarized. For each end-point variable, the judgements recorded in the follow-up times were then examined and considerations were made regarding the outcome of the trial, according to the criteria in table 5 below. Table 5

[* Considerations were made following the application of appropriate non-parametric tests for paired data (One-tailed sign tests) to fictitious datasets. Analyses were performed using RStudio, Version 1.4.1106 © 2009-2021 RStudio, PBC.]

Table 6 - Evaluation of the appearance of erythema

Table 7 - Evaluation of the appearance of oedema

Based on the frequencies of the observation judgements, the results correspond to criterion number 2 of table 5, thus the product is NON-IRRITATING.

Claims

1. A liquid crystal emulsion comprising i) a fatty phase containing:

- at least one butter,

- at least one oil, ii) at least one alkylpolyglucoside, in which the alkyl has a carbon number comprised between CIO and C22, ii) an aqueous phase, containing at least water, the emulsion being characterized in that it consists of between about 90% and 100% by weight of ingredients of natural origin or derived natural ingredients. do not contain rheological modifiers of synthetic origin and do not contain other non-ionic surfactants beyond the at least one alkylpolyglucoside.

2. Emulsion according to claim 1, wherein the at least one butter and the at least one oil are in a total amount comprised between about 1.5% and 15% by weight on the total weight of the emulsion.

3. Emulsion according to any one of claims from 1 to 2, wherein the at least one oil and/or the at least one butter contain linoleic acid in a minimum amount > 4% by weight on the weight of the at least one oil and/or the at least one butter, and preferably linolenic acid in a minimum amount > 0.3% by weight on the weight of the at least one oil and/or the at least one butter.

4. Emulsion according to any one of claims from 1 to 3, wherein the weight ratio of the at least one alkylpolyglucoside to water is comprised between about 1 : 15 and 1 :37.

5. Emulsion according to any one of claims from 1 to 4, comprising at least one wax, preferably in an amount comprised between about 1% and 10% by weight on the total weight of the emulsion.

6. Emulsion according to any one of claims from 1 to 5, in semi-solid or solid form.

7. Emulsion according to any one of claims from 1 to 6, for topical use.

8. A hydrating cosmetic composition comprising the emulsion according to any one of claims from 1 to 7, wherein the at least one butter and the at least one oil constitute the active ingredients of the composition, and the composition does not comprise further active ingredients for cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical use.

9. Cosmetic composition comprising

- a vehicle for active ingredients consisting of the emulsion according to any one of claims from 1 to 7,

- hydrophilic and/or lipophilic cosmetic active ingredients,

- suitable excipients and/or diluents.

10. A pharmaceutical composition for medical use comprising

- hydrophilic and/or lipophilic pharmaceutical active ingredients,

- suitable excipients and/or diluents.

11. Composition for use according to claim 10, in the treatment of a skin disorder or disease selected from the group consisting of: eczema, radiodermatitis, atopic dermatitis, seborrheic dermatitis, contact dermatitis, psoriasis, erythema, skin infections, actinic keratosis, wounds and abrasions, acne, rosacea and combinations of the foregoing.

12. Cosmetic composition according to claim 9 or pharmaceutical composition for use according to claim 10, wherein the amount of ingredients of natural origin is comprised between about 90% and 100% by weight on the total weight of the composition.

13. A process for preparing the emulsion according to any one of claims from 1 to 7, comprising the following steps: a) arranging the aqueous phase, deprived of any thermolabile ingredients; b) heating the aqueous phase to a temperature comprised between about 70°C and 80°C; b) separately, joining, in order: the at least one oil, the at least one mono- and diglyceride of C12-C22 fatty acids, the at least one butter, the at least one alkylpolyglucoside, to obtain the fatty phase with the at least one alkylpolyglucoside added, c) heating the fatty phase with the at least one alkylpolyglucoside added, preferably at a temperature comprised between about 75°C and 85°C, until a molten fatty mass is obtained; d) combining the molten fatty mass and the aqueous phase under stirring, to obtain a final mixture; e) cooling the final mixture under stirring, to a temperature below about 30°C, optionally adding thermolabile ingredients.