WO2023285363A1 - Kit cosmétique et méthode de maquillage des cils - Google Patents

Kit cosmétique et méthode de maquillage des cils Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023285363A1
WO2023285363A1 PCT/EP2022/069294 EP2022069294W WO2023285363A1 WO 2023285363 A1 WO2023285363 A1 WO 2023285363A1 EP 2022069294 W EP2022069294 W EP 2022069294W WO 2023285363 A1 WO2023285363 A1 WO 2023285363A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
kit according
cosmetic kit
polymer
weight
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PCT/EP2022/069294
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English (en)
Inventor
Chrystèle GEVREY
Séverine ROSE
Franck Giron
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2023285363A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023285363A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8164—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a carboxyl radical, and containing at least one other carboxyl radical in the molecule, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers, e.g. poly (methyl vinyl ether-co-maleic anhydride)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D40/00—Casings or accessories specially adapted for storing or handling solid or pasty toiletry or cosmetic substances, e.g. shaving soaps or lipsticks
    • A45D40/26—Appliances specially adapted for applying pasty paint, e.g. using roller, using a ball
    • A45D40/262—Appliances specially adapted for applying pasty paint, e.g. using roller, using a ball using a brush or the like
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/87—Application Devices; Containers; Packaging

Definitions

  • TITLE Cosmetic kit and process for making up the eyelashes
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic kit for coating and/or cleansing keratin matters, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising specific composition and applicator; and a cosmetic process for coating and/or cleansing keratin matters using this kit.
  • mascaras it should be understood a composition intended to be applied on the eyelashes: it may consist of a make-up composition for eyelashes, a makeup base for eyelashes (also called a base-coat), a composition to be applied on a mascara, also called a top-coat, or else a composition for the cosmetic treatment of eyelashes.
  • the mascara is more particularly intended for the eyelashes of human beings, but also for false eyelashes.
  • make-up is often tedious, in particular long and difficult to complete and/or replicate, imperfect to the extent that it might be uneven and/or have defects (for example grains), and/or have a visual impact that is insufficient or unsuitable for the need of the users and to the time.
  • mascaras have some drawbacks: their properties evolve over time, they cannot be used till the end... Most of the time, these problems arise from the fact that many brush strokes should be applied in order to achieve the desired result, during which the mascara dries and forms grains which accumulate on the eyelashes, on the brush and in the can, which alters the make-up but also the quality of the product.
  • the present invention addresses the aforementioned need, and allows for an even and very charging make-up, and that being so, in one single gesture.
  • the obtained make up is homogeneous and distributed over the entire eyelash fringe.
  • an object of the present invention is a cosmetic kit for coating and/or cleansing keratin matters, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising:
  • compositions for coating and/or cleansing keratin matters, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows comprising at least one physiologically-acceptable medium, at least one particle selected from among coloring and non-coloring matters, and at least one polymeric dispersing agent (’’composition according to the invention”), and
  • an applicator comprising a gripping member (12) and an application member (14) carried or adapted to be carried by the gripping member (12), comprising at least one longitudinal support (20) and a plurality of disks (22) extending transversely from the longitudinal support (20) (’’applicator according to the invention”).
  • An object of the present invention is a process for coating and/or cleansing keratin matters, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising the application of the composition of a kit according to the invention on the keratin matters, in particular the eyelashes or eyebrows, using the applicator according to the invention.
  • the cosmetic kit according to the invention comprises a coating composition having a high Intrinsic Coating Capacity (ICC).
  • ICC Intrinsic Coating Capacity
  • the ICC characterizes the charging potential.
  • the method for characterizing the ICC, in particular with the robot as indicated as example, allows getting rid of the stress effect of conventional mascara applicators (such as brushes with fibers and elastomer brushes).
  • the composition of such a kit has an intrinsic coating capacity (ICC) higher than 1 mg, preferably higher than 2 mg, preferably higher than 3 mg, preferably higher than 4 mg, after one single passage on said keratin matters.
  • ICC intrinsic coating capacity
  • composition according to the invention comprises:
  • composition according to the invention is a make-up composition and in particular a mascara.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one polymeric dispersing agent, in particular adapted to disperse the solid particles in the composition.
  • the polymeric dispersing agent is water-soluble.
  • water-soluble polymeric dispersing agent it should be understood a polymeric dispersing agent which, when introduced in water at a concentration equal to 1%, leads to a macroscopically homogeneous solution whose transmittance of light, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a 1-cm-thick sample, is at least 10%.
  • the dispersing polymers according to the invention are selected from among acrylic copolymers. Mention may be made of sodium polymethacrylate, styrene/maleic anhydride copolymers or else the copolymers that consist of a main chain and of one or several grafted lateral chain(s) possibly substituted at its(their) end with an alkyl group comprising less than 6 carbon atoms.
  • acrylic copolymers mention may be made of sodium polymethacrylate such as Darvan 7-N commercialized by the company Vanderbit, the styrene/maleic anhydride copolymer commercialized under the name SMA 1000 HNA by the company Cray Valley.
  • the polymeric dispersing agent comprises a main chain and at least one lateral chain grafted on the main chain, said main chain being derived from at least one monomer comprising at least one a,b- monoethylene unsaturation and at least one function selected from the group formed by the functions: carboxylic acid, carboxylic acid ester, carboxylic acid salt and mixtures thereof; said lateral chain including at least one C2-C8 alkyleneoxy radical, whether linear or branched, or a mixture of alkyleneoxy radicals; said lateral chain being possibly substituted with an alkyl chain, linear or branched, comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • the dispersing polymers consist of a main chain and of several grafted lateral chains possibly substituted at their end with an alkyl group comprising less than 6 carbon atoms.
  • main chain encompasses the terms “skeleton chain” or “skeleton” of the polymer.
  • the main chain comprising the greatest number of carbon atoms, differs from the lateral chains.
  • chain straight derived from at least one monomer means that said chain corresponds to the polymer obtained by polymerization of said monomer.
  • the dispersing polymers according to the invention are referred to as “comb copolymers”, the branches of the comb corresponding to the lateral chains (or pendent chains) consisting of grafts.
  • the main chain of the dispersing polymers according to the invention comprises at least one carboxylic acid function or an ester or a salt thereof. It may also comprise mixtures of these functions, esters and salts.
  • the main chain may comprise pendent COOH, COOAIk or COO X + functions, or mixtures of theses, where Aik represents an alkyl group comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms and X represents an alkaline or alkaline-earth metal, or X+ represents a quaternary ammonium.
  • alkyl group reference is herein made to a saturated hydrocarbon aliphatic group, whether linear or branched, comprising, unless stated otherwise, 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • alkyl group refers to a saturated hydrocarbon aliphatic group, whether linear or branched, comprising, unless stated otherwise, 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • the term “quaternary ammonium” refers to a cation obtained, in particular by alkylation, from an amine with a formula NR1R2R3, each of the groups Ri, R2 and R3, identical or different, representing H or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • the quaternary ammonium according to the invention includes the ammonium cation NH4T
  • the dispersing polymers consist of a main chain and of several grafted lateral chains substituted at their end with an alkyl group comprising less than 6 carbon atoms, and preferably with a methyl group.
  • lateral chain grafted on the main chain means that the lateral chain is connected to the main chain through a covalent bond.
  • ester function may result from the reaction between a carboxylic acid function of the monomer of the main chain and a hydroxyl function of the poly(ethylene oxide) and/or polypropylene oxide).
  • alkyleneoxy radical it should be understood a -A’- O- radical wherein A’ represents an alkylene radical.
  • alkylene radical it should be understood a divalent radical derived from an alkyl group as defined before lacking two hydrogen atoms.
  • the alkyleneoxy radicals may be linear or branched, A’ may therefore represent a linear or branched alkylene radical, comprising in particular 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
  • the alkyleneoxy radicals comprise 2 or 3 carbon atoms.
  • the lateral chains of the dispersing polymers may comprise mixtures of alkyleneoxy radicals with different sizes.
  • the lateral chain may comprise a mixture of radicals -(AVO) and (A’ 2 -0)-, A’i and A’ 2 representing different linear or branched alkylene radicals.
  • the lateral chain may comprise a mixture of ethyleneoxy and propyleneoxy radicals.
  • the lateral chain (or the lateral chains) of the dispersing polymer may be substituted with a linear or branched alkyl chain comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably 1 to 2 carbon atoms.
  • the main chain of the dispersing polymer is derived from at least one monomer selected from among (meth)acrylic acids, esters thereof, salts thereof and mixtures of these.
  • the main chain of the polymer is selected from among poly(meth)acrylic acids, esters of poly(meth)acrylic acids, poly(meth)acrylates and mixtures thereof.
  • the main chain of the dispersing polymer is derived from a methacrylate acid salt, in particular from sodium methacrylate. According to this embodiment, the main chain of the dispersing polymer is sodium polymethacrylate.
  • the dispersing polymers comprise one or several lateral chain(s), grafted on said main chain.
  • the polymers according to the invention consist of a main polymeric chain comprising a given function (carboxylic acid, or a salt or ester thereof) through which the lateral chains are connected.
  • the dispersing polymers may be represented as consisting of a given number of repeat units comprising repeat units derived from (meth)acrylic acids, esters thereof, salts thereof and mixtures of these, and grafted units, derived from the previous ones, comprising a graft including at least one alkyleneoxy radical as defined hereinabove, where appropriate substituted with an alkyl chain as defined hereinabove.
  • the dispersing polymer comprises at least one non- substituted lateral chain.
  • all of the lateral chains of the dispersing polymer are non-substituted.
  • non-substituted lateral chain reference is made to a lateral chain as defined including at least one linear or branched C 2 -C 3 alkyleneoxy radical or a mixture of alkyleneoxy radicals, and comprising a terminal hydrogen atom.
  • the dispersing polymer comprises at least one lateral chain substituted with a methyl or ethyl, in particular methyl, chain.
  • the lateral chains of the dispersing polymer are substituted with a methyl chain.
  • the dispersing polymer comprises at least one lateral chain consisting of ethyleneoxy, propyleneoxy radicals or mixtures of these.
  • the lateral chains of the dispersing polymer consist of ethyleneoxy, propyleneoxy radicals or mixtures of these.
  • the lateral chains of the polymer may be distributed randomly, statistically or in the form of sequences (block or sequenced copolymers).
  • the dispersing polymers according to the invention may be block copolymers corresponding to the assembly, on the one hand, of blocks with lateral chains and, on the other hand, of blocks without lateral chains.
  • the lateral chains of the dispersing polymer are randomly or statistically distributed. Preferably, they are statistically distributed.
  • the dispersing polyol according to the invention is linear. In particular, it is not a cross-linked polymer.
  • the dispersing polymer is a comb copolymer comprising a polymethacrylic acid (or one of its salts) main chain grafted with ethylene polyoxide and/or propylene polyoxide lateral chains.
  • the lateral chain comprises 20 to 200, preferably 50 to 150, preferably 50 to 100, alkyleneoxy groups.
  • the lateral chain comprises only ethyleneoxy groups.
  • the lateral chain comprises only propyleneoxy groups.
  • the lateral chain comprises a mixture of ethyleneoxy groups and of propyleneoxy groups, these being randomly or statistically distributed
  • the average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of the aforementioned dispersing polymer ranges from 10,000 to 4,000,000 g/mol, preferably from 20,000 to 2,000,000 g/mol, and even more preferably from 30,000 g/mol to 1 ,900,000 g/mol.
  • the average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of the aforementioned dispersing polymer ranges from 40,000 to 1 ,500,000, preferably from 42,000 to 1 ,000,000, preferably from 45,000 to 500,000, and more preferably from 50,000 to 100,000 g/mol.
  • the average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of the aforementioned dispersing polymer ranges from 20,000 to 300,000 g/mol, preferably from 20,000 to 200,000 g/mol, and preferably from 30,000 g/mol to 120,000 g/mol.
  • the average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of the aforementioned dispersing polymer ranges from 40,000 to 80,000 g/mol.
  • the average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of the aforementioned dispersing polymer ranges from 50,000 to 90,000 g/mol, preferably from 70,000 to 80,000 g/mol.
  • the average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of the aforementioned dispersing polymer is equal to about 75,000 g/mol.
  • Mw average molecular mass by weight
  • the dispersing polymer according to the invention comprises at least one unit with the following formula (I):
  • X is an alkaline or alkaline-earth metal, in particular Na or K; or X+ represents a quaternary ammonium; R a represents H or an alkyl group, whether linear or branched, comprising 1 to 6, preferably 1 to 4, and preferably 1 or 2, carbon atoms;
  • A represents a C2-C8 alkyleneoxy radical, whether linear or branched, or mixture thereof; and p is an integer ranging from 1 to 200, preferably from 50 to 150.
  • the dispersing polymer according to the invention comprises at least one repeat unit (Ti) and at least one repeat unit (T 2 ), said repeat units having the following respective formulas:
  • X is H or an alkaline or alkaline-earth metal, and is in particular Na or K; or X+ represents a quaternary ammonium;
  • R a represents H or an alkyl group, whether linear or branched, comprising 1 to 6, preferably 1 to 4, and preferably 1 or 2 carbon atoms;
  • R and R’ independently represents H or an alkyl group, whether linear or branched, comprising 1 to 10, preferably 1 to 5, and preferably 1 or 2 carbon atoms;
  • A represents a C 2 -C 8 , preferably C 2 -C 3 , alkyleneoxy radical, whether linear or branched, or a mixture thereof.
  • the dispersing polymer consists of x repeat units (Ti) and of y repeat units (T 2 ), these units being randomly or statistically distributed, where: - x is an integer ranging from 50 to 3,000, preferably from 60 to 1 ,500; and y is an integer ranging from 5 to 1,000, preferably from 5 to 600; the sum x+y corresponding to the number n defined hereinabove.
  • the repeat units (Ti) and (T 2 ) may be randomly alternated in the aforementioned polymer. According to the invention, the repeat units (Ti) and (T 2 ) may be statistically alternated in the aforementioned polymer.
  • the repeat units (Ti) and (T 2 ) may be distributed in blocks or sequences in the aforementioned polymer.
  • X represents Na.
  • each R a represents H or a methyl group.
  • each R a represents H. According to one embodiment, in the formulas (I) and (T 2 ) defined hereinabove, each
  • R a represents a methyl group.
  • R is H or a methyl group.
  • the R’ groups are H or a methyl group.
  • R’ is H or a methyl group.
  • the radical A meets the following formula (II) or (III): [Chem 3] in which:
  • - Ai represents a-CH 2 CH 2 0- radical
  • - A 2 represents a -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )0- or -CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -0- radical;
  • - j and k identical or different, independently represent an integer ranging from 0 to 50, preferably from 0 to 25; provided that the sum j + k is greater than or equal to 1 , and preferably greater than or equal to 50.
  • the dispersing polymer meets the following formula: [Chem 4] wherein:
  • the dispersing polymer meets the following formula:
  • the dispersing polymer is a copolymer derived from methacrylic acid and from polyethylene oxide) methyl ether methacrylate.
  • the polymer is a copolymer derived from methacrylic acid and from polypropylene oxide) methyl ether methacrylate.
  • the dispersing polymer is a copolymer derived from methacrylic acid and from polyethylene oxide) (propylene oxide) methyl ether methacrylate.
  • the dispersing polymer according to the invention is described in the document US 6 034 208 and is obtained by known processes, and in particular by radical polymerization in solution, in direct or inverse emulsion, in suspension or precipitation in solvents, in the presence of primer systems and transfer agents, or else by a controlled radical polymerization, and preferably by controlled polymerization with nitroxides (NMP) or with cobaloximes, by atom transfer radical polymerization (ATRP), by controlled radical polymerization with sulfur derivatives, selected from among carbamates, dithioesters or trithiocarbonates (RAFT) or xanthates.
  • NMP nitroxides
  • ATRP atom transfer radical polymerization
  • sulfur derivatives selected from among carbamates, dithioesters or trithiocarbonates (RAFT) or xanthates.
  • neutralizing agent(s) provided with a monovalent or polyvalent cation
  • said agents being preferably selected from among ammonium hydroxide or from among hydroxides and/or calcium, magnesium oxides, or from among sodium, potassium, lithium hydroxides, or from among aliphatic and/or cyclic primary, secondary or tertiary amines such as preferably stearylamine, ethanolamines (mono-, di-, triethanolamine), mono and diethylamine, cylcohexylamine, methylcyclohexylamine, amino methyl propanol, morpholine, and preferably in that the neutralizing agent is selected from among triethanolamine and sodium hydroxide.
  • polar solvent(s) preferably belonging to the group formed by water, methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanols, aketone, tetrahydrofurane or mixtures thereof.
  • the dispersing agent is a methacrylic-co-acrylic acid copolymer of POE PPO OH: Polyether polycarbonate, sodium salt in aqueous solution.
  • the dispersing polymer has the INCI name Sodium Methacrylate/PEG/PPG-45/15 Hydroxypropyl Methacrylate Copolymer.
  • a composition according to the invention includes a total concentration of water-soluble polymeric dispersing agent(s) higher than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably higher than or equal to 0.5% by weight, even more preferably in a concentration ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, in particular in a concentration ranging from 0.5% to 3% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • Physiologically acceptable medium higher than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably higher than or equal to 0.5% by weight, even more preferably in a concentration ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, in particular in a concentration ranging from 0.5% to 3% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one physiologically- acceptable medium.
  • This physiologically-acceptable medium comprises at least one continuous aqueous phase or at least one continuous oily phase.
  • mascaras are essentially prepared according to two types of formulation: aqueous mascaras, so-called “cream mascaras”, in the form of a dispersion of particles (in particular waxes) in water; or else anhydrous mascaras or with low water content, so-called “waterproof” mascaras, in the form of a dispersion of particles (in particular waxes) in organic solvents.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one continuous aqueous phase.
  • This aqueous phase comprises water.
  • continuous aqueous phase means that the composition has a conductivity, measured at 25°C, greater than 23 pS/cm (microSiemens/cm), with the conductivity being measured for example using a Mettler Toledo MPC227 conductometer and an Inlab730 conductivity measuring cell.
  • the measuring cell is immersed in the composition, in such a way as to remove air bubbles that can form between the two electrodes of the cell. Reading the conductivity is done as soon as the value of the conductometer has stabilized. An average is taken over at least three successive measurements.
  • the continuous aqueous phase is present in a concentration higher than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably in a concentration higher than or equal to 20% by weight in relation to the total weight of the invention, preferably the continuous aqueous phase is present in a concentration comprised between 20 and 50% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • Water is present in the continuous aqueous phase in a concentration higher than or equal to 10% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • the water content of the aqueous phase is higher than or equal to 15% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, even more preferably, water is present in a concentration comprised between 15% and 40% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • a water that is suitable for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and/or a spring water such as the spring water of Saint-Gervais Mont Blanc.
  • the continuous aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at ambient temperature 25°C) such as for example mono-alcohols having 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols having in particular 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylylglycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as alkyl(Ci-C4)ethers of mono, di- or tripropylene glycol, alkyl(Cr C4)ethers of mono, di- or triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
  • water-miscible organic solvents at ambient temperature 25°C
  • mono-alcohols having 2 to 6 carbon atoms such
  • the continuous aqueous phase of the compositions of the invention comprises at least one monoalcohol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms and/or at least one polyol having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • the water-miscible organic solvent(s) is(are) present in the continuous aqueous phase in a concentration comprised between 1% and 20% by weight, preferably between 2% and 15% by weight, preferably between 3% and 10% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one continuous aqueous phase
  • it may comprise an oil dispersed within this aqueous phase.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one continuous oily phase.
  • continuous oily phase it should be understood that the composition has a conductivity, measured at 25°C, lower than 23 pS/cm (microSiemens/cm), the conductivity being measured for example using a MPC227 conductometer from Mettler Toledo and an Inlab730 conductivity measuring cell.
  • the measuring cell is immersed in the composition, in such a way as to remove air bubbles that can form between the two electrodes of the cell. Reading the conductivity is done as soon as the value of the conductometer has stabilized. An average is taken over at least three successive measurements.
  • the continuous oily phase comprises one or several oil(s) or liquid non-aqueous fatty bod(y/ies) at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg).
  • the oil can be chosen from volatile oils and/or non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • the oil(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • volatile oil is intended to mean any oil capable of evaporating on contact with keratin fibers, in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile organic solvent(s) and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils, which are liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure different, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 -3 at 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more specifically ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).
  • non-volatile oil it should be understood an oil remaining on the keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure lower than 10 -3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).
  • oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils or mixtures thereof.
  • a “hydrocarbon oil” is an oil containing principally hydrogen and carbon atoms and possible oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus atoms.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and particularly branched C8-C16 alkanes such as petroleum-based C8-C16 isoalkanes (also referred to as isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also referred to as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Further volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, particularly those sold under the name Shell Solt by SHELL, may also be used.
  • the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.
  • volatile oils such as for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity £ 8 centistokes (8.10 6 m 2 /s), and having in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly including alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • R represents an alkyl group comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms and in which one or several hydrogen atoms can be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.
  • the composition can also comprise at least one non-volatile oil, and in particular chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon and/or silicone and/or fluorinated oils.
  • a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil mention may be made of: hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as triesters of fatty acids and glycerol for which the fatty acids can have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C24, with the latter able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean oils, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy seed, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passiflora, musk rose oil; or caprylic
  • the non-volatile silicone oils that can be used in the composition in accordance with the invention can be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl-trisiloxanes or (2- phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.
  • PDMS non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes
  • phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dime
  • the fluorinated oils that can be used in the invention are in particular fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones, as described in document EP-A-847752.
  • the continuous oily phase may be present in a concentration higher than or equal to 10% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • concentration of the continuous oily phase is higher than or equal to 15% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, even more preferably, this concentration is comprised between 15% and 40% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one particle selected from among coloring and non-coloring matters.
  • the coloring matters are selected from among pulverulent matters, liposoluble colorants, water-soluble colorants and mixtures thereof.
  • the non-coloring matters are selected from among film-forming polymers, preferably latex, charges, waxes and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one coloring particle and at least one non-coloring particle.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise at least one coloring matter.
  • the used coloring matters allow conferring a color on the composition preferably other than white.
  • this (or these) coloring matter(s) is (or are) selected from among pulverulent materials, liposoluble colorants, water-soluble colorants, and mixtures thereof.
  • compositions according to the invention include at least one pulverulent coloring matter.
  • the pulverulent coloring matters may be selected from among pigments and nacres, preferably from among pigments.
  • the pigments may be white or colored, inorganic and/or organic, coated or uncoated.
  • inorganic pigments mention may be made of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide, possibly surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, as well as iron, titanium or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and iron blue.
  • organic pigments mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.
  • the nacres may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with iron blue and chromium oxide in particular, titanium mica with an organic pigments of the aforementioned type and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride
  • colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with iron blue and chromium oxide in particular, titanium mica with an organic pigments of the aforementioned type and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • the liposoluble colorants are for example Sudan Red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, b- carotene, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C orange 5, Quinoline Yellow, rocou.
  • the coloring matters present in the compositions according to the invention are selected from among pigments, and preferably from among metal oxides, and preferably from among iron oxides.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one coloring matter in a total concentration higher than or equal to 2% by weight, preferably higher than or equal to 5% by weight, even more preferably higher than or equal to 10% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • the coloring matter is present in a total concentration ranging from 8 to 35% by weight in relation to the total of the composition, preferably in a total concentration ranging from 12 to 30% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably in a total concentration ranging from 15 to 25% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise non-coloring matters selected from among film-forming polymers, preferably film-forming polymers in aqueous dispersion, charges, waxes and mixtures thereof.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one film-forming polymer.
  • the film-forming polymer may be selected from among film-formng polymers in aqueous dispersion, water-soluble film-forming polymers and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one aqueous dispersion of particles of film-forming polymer(s) and possibly at least one additional film forming polymer (not present in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles, such as a water-soluble film-forming polymer).
  • film-forming polymer it should be understood a polymer adapted to form alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous deposit, and preferably a cohesive deposit, and even better a deposit for which the cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said deposit could be isolated and manipulated in an isolated manner, for example when said deposit is made by pouring on a non-stick surface such as a Teflon or silicone surface.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of particles formed by one or several film-forming polymer(s).
  • It may also include at least one water-soluble film-forming polymer.
  • it may include at least one additional film-forming polymer, distinct from film-forming polymer particles present in the form of an aqueous dispersion.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a total dry matter content of film-forming polymer(s), i.e. of film-forming polymer(s) in aqueous dispersion and/or of water-soluble film-forming polymer(s), higher than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably higher than or equal to 6% and even more preferably higher than or equal to 7% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • Such a film-forming polymer is present in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion, generally bear(s) the name of (pseudo)latex, i.e. latex or pseudolatex.
  • the techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.
  • a dispersion suitable for the invention may comprise one or a plurality of types of particles, these particles optionally varying by the size thereof, by the structure thereof and/or by the chemical nature thereof.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises a total dry matter content of film-forming polymer particles in the form of an aqueous dispersion higher than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably higher than or equal to 6%, even more preferably higher than or equal to 7% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • These particles may be anionic, cationic or neutral and may form a mixture of particles of different natures.
  • film-forming polymers that could be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of radical type or polycondensate type synthetic polymers, and mixtures thereof.
  • these polymers may be statistical polymers, A- B block, A-B-A multi-block or else ABCD type copolymers, and possibly grafted polymers.
  • radical film-forming polymer a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers, in particular ethylenic, each monomer could be homopolymerized (unlike polycondensates).
  • radical type film-forming polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers, whether acrylic or vinyl.
  • the vinyl film-forming polymers can result from the polymerization of ethylenic unsaturated monomers that have at least one acid group and/or esters of these acid monomers and/or amides of these acid monomers.
  • a,b-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid.
  • (meth)acrylic acid and crotonic acidd, and more particularly (meth)acrylic acid are used.
  • esters of acid monomers are selected from among the esters of (meth)acrylic acid (also called (meth)acrylates), in particular alkyl, in particular C1-C20, more particularly C1-C8, alkyl (meth)acrylates, aryl, in particular C6-C10 aryl, (meth)acrylates, hydroxyalkyl, in particular C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl, (meth)acrylates.
  • esters of (meth)acrylic acid also called (meth)acrylates
  • alkyl in particular C1-C20, more particularly C1-C8, alkyl (meth)acrylates, aryl, in particular C6-C10 aryl, (meth)acrylates, hydroxyalkyl, in particular C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl, (meth)acrylates.
  • alkyl methacrylates mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, ethyl-2 hexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate.
  • hydroxyalkyl methacrylates mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
  • aryl methacrylates mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.
  • esters of the methacrylic acid are alkyl methacrylates.
  • the alkyl group of the esters may be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, i.e. part or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted with fluorine atoms.
  • amides of the acid monomers mention may be made for example of methacrylamides, and in particular the N-alkyl methacrylamides, in particular C2-C12 alkyl.
  • N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide,
  • N-t-butyl acrylamide and N-t-octyl acrylamide are N-t-butyl acrylamide and N-t-octyl acrylamide.
  • the vinyl film-forming polymers may also result from the homopolymerization or from the copolymerization of monomers selected from among vinyl esters and styrene monomers.
  • these monomers can be polymerized with acid monomers and/or their esters and/or their amides, such as those mentioned hereinabove.
  • vinyl esters mention may be made of vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.
  • styrene monomers mention may be made of the styrene of alpha-methyl styrene.
  • vinyl polymer mention may also be made of silicon acrylic polymers.
  • polycondensate-type film-forming polymer mention may be made of anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethanes-acrylics, polyurethanes- polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea/polyurethanes, silicon polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.
  • the film-forming polyurethane may be a polyurethane, polyu rea/urethane copolymer, or aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic polyurea, including, alone or mixed, at least one sequence selected from among:
  • silicone sequence branched or not, for example polydimethylsiloxane or polymethylphenylsiloxane, and/or
  • the film-forming polyurethanes as defined in the invention may also be obtained from polyesters, whether branched or not, or from alkyds including mobile hydrogens that are modified by reaction with a diisocyanate and a bifunctional organic compound (for example dihydro, diamino or hydroxyamino), further including either a carboxylic acid or carboxylate group, or a sulfonic acid or sulfonate group, or else a neutralizable tertiary amine group or a quaternary ammonium group.
  • a diisocyanate for example dihydro, diamino or hydroxyamino
  • a bifunctional organic compound for example dihydro, diamino or hydroxyamino
  • polyesters Amongst the film-forming polycondensates, mention may also be made of polyesters, amide polyesters, polyesters with a fatty chain, polyamides, and epoxyester reins.
  • the polyesters may be obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols.
  • the dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic.
  • the following can be mentioned as examples of such acids: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1 ,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid.
  • These dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or in combination with
  • the diol can be chosen from among the aliphatic, alicyclic, aromatic diols.
  • a diol selected from among: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol.
  • glycerol pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylol propane.
  • the polyester amides can be obtained in a manner similar to the polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols.
  • diamine it is possible to use ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or para-phenylenediamine.
  • amino alcohol monoethanolamine can be used.
  • said at least one film-forming polymer in the dispersed state is selected from among the dispersions of acrylic polymers, the dispersions of polyurethane, the dispersions of sulfopolyesters, the vinyl dispersions, the acetate polyvinyl dispersions, the dispersions of vinyl pyrrolidone terpolymer, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride, the dispersions of hybrid polyurethane/polyacrylics polymer, the dispersions of core-shell type particles and mixtures thereof.
  • the aqueous dispersion of polymer particles is an aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer.
  • the acrylic polymer may be a styrene/acrylate copolymer, and in particular a polymer selected from among the copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one styrene monomer and at least one C1-C18 alkyl methacrylate monomer.
  • styrene monomer that could be used in the invention, mention may be made for example of styrene or alpha-methylstyrene, and in particular styrene.
  • the C1-C18 alkyl methacrylate monomer is a C1-C12 alkyl methacrylate and more particularly a
  • the C1-C10 alkyl methacrylate may be selected from among methyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, butyl methacrylate, hexyl acrylate, octyl acrylate, 2-ethyl hexyl acrylate, lauryl methacrylate and/or stearyl methacrylate.
  • acrylic polymer in aqueous dispersion it is possible to use according to the invention the styrene/acrylate copolymer commercialized under the name “Joncryl SCX- 8211®” by the company BASF or “SYNTRAN 5760CG” by the company Interpolymer, the acrylic polymer commercialized under the reference “Acronal® DS - 6250” by the company BASF or the acrylic copolymer “Joncryl® 95” by the company BASF.
  • the aqueous dispersion of polymer particles is an aqueous dispersion of polyester-polyurethane and/or polyether-polyurethane, in particular anionic, particles.
  • the anionic nature of the polyester-polyurethanes and of the polyether-polyurethanes used according to the invention is due to the presence of groups with a carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid function in their constitutive patterns.
  • polyester-polyurethane or polyether-polyurethane particles used according to the invention are generally commercialized in the form of aqueous dispersions.
  • the concentration of particles of said dispersions currently available on the market ranges from about 20% to about 60% by weight in relation to the total weight of the dispersion.
  • polyester-anionic polyurethane dispersions that could be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of that one commercialized under the name “Avalure UR 405®” by the company NOVEON or “Baycusan C1004” by the company BAYER MATERIAL SCIENCE.
  • dispersions of polyether-anionic polyurethane particles that could be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of those commercialized under the name “Avalure UR 450®” by the company NOVEON, and under the name “Neorez R 970®” by the company DSM.
  • polyester-anionic polyurethane particles such as those defined hereinabove and polyether-anionic polyurethane particles also defined hereinabove.
  • aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer it is possible to use:
  • aqueous dispersions of polyurethane/polyacrylic hybrid polymers such as those commercialized under the references “Hybridur ®” by the company AIR PRODUCTS or “Duromer®” from NATIONAL STARCH
  • dispersions of core-shell type particles such as those commercialized by the company ARKEMA under the reference “Kynar®” (core: fluorinated - shell: acrylic) or else those described in US 5 188899 (core: silica - shell: silicone) and mixtures thereof.
  • a composition in accordance with the invention comprises an aqueous dispersion of particles selected from the aqueous dispersions of acrylic film-forming polymer(s) and derivatives thereof, in particular styrene-acrylic and derivatives thereof, and the aqueous dispersions of polyurethane polymer(s), in particular polyester-polyurethane, and derivatives thereof, and mixture(s) thereof.
  • the composition in accordance with the invention comprises an aqueous dispersion of acrylic particles, in particular that one sold under the name “Syntran 5760 CG®” by the company Interpolymer whose I NCI name is STYRENE/ACRYLATES/AMMONIUM METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER (and) SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE (et) CAPRYLYL GLYCOL.
  • compositions according to the present invention may comprise at least one water- soluble film-forming polymer.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises a total content of water-soluble film-forming polymer(s) ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.4 to 4% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • water-soluble film-forming polymers examples include:
  • proteins of plant origin such as wheat, soy proteins
  • proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and sulfonic keratins
  • cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, as well as quaternized cellulose derivatives;
  • vinyl polymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, methylvinyl ether and malic anhydride copolymers, vinyl acetate and crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate copolymers; vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam copolymers; polyvinyl alcohol;
  • - anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic chitin or chitosan polymers - arabic gums, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum, acacia gum;
  • the composition in accordance with the invention comprises a cellulose polymer, in particular hydroxyethylcellulose in particular the product with the name CELLOSIZE QP 4400 H commercialized by the company Amerchol (Dow Chemicals).
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise an aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer in particular the dispersion Syntran 5760 ® commercialized by the company Interpolymer and cellulose polymers, in particular hydroxyethylcellulose in particular the product with the name CELLOSIZE QP 4400 H commercialized by the company Amerchol (Dow Chemicals).
  • composition according to the invention can comprise at least one wax.
  • wax refers to a lipophilic compound, which is solid at ambient temperature (25°C), deformable or not, having a reversible solid/liquid change of state and a melting point greater than or equal to 40°C that can range up to 120°C.
  • the waxes suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C, and particularly greater than or equal to 55°C.
  • lipophilic compound means a compound that has an acid index and a hydroxyl index less than 150 mg KOH/g.
  • the melting point is equivalent to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments.
  • the measurement protocol is as follows: A 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, and is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from - 20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured.
  • the melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature equivalent to the top point of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature.
  • the waxes may be hydrocarbon, silicone and/or fluorinated and be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.
  • Hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax; rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Japan wax, Berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax; montan wax can be in particular used as wax.
  • a hydrocarbon wax will be used chosen from beeswax, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, and mixtures thereof.
  • waxes obtained by means of the catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having C8-C32 linear or branched fat chains.
  • hydrogenated jojoba oil hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-(trimethylol-1 ,1 ,1 propane) tetrastearate sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S” by HETERENE, di-(trimethylol-1 ,1 ,1 propane) tetrabehenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by HETERENE.
  • the wax used can also be obtained by hydrogenating esterified olive oil with stearyl alcohol sold under the name “PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57” or waxes obtained by hydrogenating esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol sold under the name “PHYTOWAX ricin 16L64 and 22L73", by SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in the application FR-A- 2792190.
  • a silicone wax in particular sticky, such as a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture, in particular a C20-C40 12-alkyl-(12’-hydroxystearyloxy)stearate, or a mixture of these compounds.
  • a sticky wax is particularly sold under the names "KESTER WAX K 82 P” and "KESTER WAX K 80 P" by KOSTER KEUNEN.
  • microcrystalline waxes paraffins and ozokerite
  • polyethylene waxes waxes obtained by means of Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and the esters thereof
  • silicone waxes and fluorinated waxes are examples of microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite.
  • the wax may be present in a content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, better from 2% to 20%, and even better from 5% to 15% by weight.
  • the composition according to the invention is substantially wax-free.
  • substantially free it should be understood that the composition comprises less than 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises no wax.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax.
  • the filler can be inorganic or organic.
  • the charge may have a lamellar or non-lamellar shape.
  • the charge is selected from among silicon particles, polyamide particles, particles of acrylic (co)polymers, polyurethane particles, talcs and mixtures thereof.
  • the silicon particles may be selected from among polymethylsilsesquioxane particles, particles of organopolysiloxane elastomer coated with silicone resin and organosilicon particles.
  • polymethylsilsesquioxane particle As a polymethylsilsesquioxane particle, it is possible to use that one commercialized under the name TOSPEARL by the company Momentive Performance Materials, and in particular under there reference Tospearl 145 A.
  • the particles of organopolysiloxane elastomer coated with a silicone resin used according the invention are described in particular in the applications JP-A 61-194009, EP- A 242219, EP-A 295886 et EP-A 765656. .
  • such particles of organopolysiloxane elastomer coated with a silicone resin are sold under the names KSP 100, KSP 101 , KSP 102, KSP 103, KSP 104 and KSP 105 by the company Shin Etsu and have as the I NCI name “Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer”.
  • the particle of cross-linked elastomer organopolysiloxane coated with silsesquioxane resin used in the composition according to the invention corresponds to the INCI name “VINYL DIMETHICONE/METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER” and is sold in particular under the reference “KSP-100” by the company Shin Etsu.
  • the elastomer organopolysiloxanes in the form of spherical particles may be hybrid silicone particles functionalized by fluoroalkyl groups, in particular those sold under the name “KSP-200” by the company Shin Etsu; and, advantageously, hybrid silicone particles functionalized by phenyl groups, in particular sold under the name “KSP-300” by the company Shin Etsu.
  • the hybrid silicon particles functionalized by phenyl groups correspond to the INCI name “DIPHENYL DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIPHENYL DIMETHICONE/SILSESQUIOXANE
  • CROSSPOLYMER and are in particular sold under the reference “KSP-300” by the company Shin Etsu.
  • the cross-linked elastomer organopolysiloxane particle coated with silicone resin is treated hydrophilic by combination with at least one quaternary ammonium polymer selected from among polyquaternium-6 and polyquaternium-7, preferably polyquaternium-7.
  • the polyquaternium-6 is a poly(diallyldimethylammonium chloride).
  • the polyquaternium7 is a copolymer of acrylamide and diallyldimethylammonium chloride.
  • the particle of cross- linked elastomer organopolysiloxane coated with hydrophilic treated silicone resin corresponds to the INCI name “VINYL DIMETHICONE/METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER TREATED WITH PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE, POLYQUATERNIUM-7 AND METHYLSILANOL TRI-PEG- 8 GLYCERYL COCOATE” and in particular it is sold under the reference “MW-SRP-100 ” by the company Miyoshi Kasei.
  • the silicon particles are selected from among particles of organopolysiloxane elastomer coated with silicone resin.
  • the silicone particles of the composition are selected from among “VINYL DIMETHICONE/METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER” in particular sold under the reference “KSP-100” by the company Shin Etsu, “DIPHENYL DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIPHENYL DIMETHICONE/SILSESQUIOXANE
  • CROSSPOLYMER sold under the reference “KSP-300” by the company Shin Etsu and “VINYL DIMETHICONE/METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER TREATED WITH PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE, POLYQUATERNIUM-7 AND METHYLSILANOL TRI-PEG-8 GLYCERYL COCOATE” in particular it is sold under the reference “MW-SRP- 100” by the company Miyoshi Kasei, and mixtures thereof.
  • the silicone particle(s) are present in a total concentration higher than or equal to 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a total concentration higher than or equal to 10% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, even more preferably in a total concentration higher than or equal to 11% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, in particular in a total concentration ranging from 5 to 25% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • the solid particles according to the invention may be selected from among one or several polyamide particle(s), in particular Nylon®, in particular “NYLON-12”.
  • the polyamide particles according to the invention have a mean diameter by volume (D[0.5]) ranging from 0.5 to 100 pm, better between 2 and 50 pm and even better between 5 and 30 pm.
  • polyamide particles may be coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent.
  • the hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from among fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylated amino acids and salts thereof; lecithin; isopropyl triisostearyl titanaten, and mixtures thereof.
  • the N-acylated amino acids may comprise an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group.
  • the salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, potassium salts.
  • the amino acid may be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine.
  • alkyl mentioned in the above- mentioned compounds particularly denotes an alkyl group having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • the preferred polyamide particles according to the invention are those bearing the INCI name “NYLON-12”.
  • the polyamide particles according to the invention are present in a total concentration higher than or equal to 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a total concentration higher than or equal to 10% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, even more preferably in a total concentration higher than or equal to 12% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, in particular in a total concentration ranging from 5 to 25% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • the polyurethane particle is a particle of a hexamethylene diisocyanate and trimethylol hexyllactone copolymer.
  • the composition according to the invention contains a polyurethane particle which is not film-forming, i.e. which does not form a continuous film when it is deposited over a support such as the skin.
  • the (poly)urethane particles according to the invention are present in a concentration higher than or equal to 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a concentration higher than or equal to 10% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, even more preferably in a concentration higher than or equal to 12% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, in particular in a concentration ranging from 5 to 25% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition may also comprise ingredients that are commonly used in cosmetics such as surfactants, fibers, cosmetic active agents and mixtures thereof.
  • antioxidants As cosmetic active agents that could be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention can be made in particular of antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers and vitamins.
  • the composition comprises at least one surfactant.
  • This surfactant may be selected from among non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.
  • the non-ionic surfactant has a HLB at 25°C lower than 8.
  • the HLB (hydrophile-lipophile balance) value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256. Reference may be made to the document “Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER”, volume 22, p. 333-432, 3 rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions of the surfactant agents, in particular on p. 347- 377 of this reference.
  • the non-ionic surfactant with a HLB at 25°C lower than 8 is selected from among polyoxyalkylenated alcohols, preferably oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene alcohols with 1 to 15 ethylene glycol and/or propylene glycol units, preferably C8-24 and in particular C 16-24 ethoxylated fatty alcohols, such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol comprising 2 oxyethylene units (INCI name: steareth-2) such as Uniqema’s Brij 72.
  • polyoxyalkylenated alcohols preferably oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene alcohols with 1 to 15 ethylene glycol and/or propylene glycol units, preferably C8-24 and in particular C 16-24 ethoxylated fatty alcohols, such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol comprising 2 oxyethylene units (INCI name: steareth-2) such as Uniqema’s Brij 72.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant in a concentration ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 2% by weight.
  • dry extract content refers to the total content of non-volatile matter.
  • the amount of dry extract (abbreviated DE) of a composition according to the invention is measured by means of a commercial halogen desiccator "HALOGEN MOISTURE ANALYZER HR 73" from METTLER TOLEDO. The measurement is taken based on the loss of weight of a sample dried by halogen heating and therefore represents the percentage of residual material once the water and volatile materials have evaporated. This technique is perfectly described in the documentation of the device supplied by METTLER TOLEDO.
  • the measurement protocol is as follows: About 2 g of the composition, hereinafter the sample, are spread over a metal cup which is inserted into the halogen dessicator mentioned hereinabove. The sample is then subjected to a temperature of 120°C for 60 minutes. The Wet Mass of the sample, corresponding to its initial mass, and the Dry Mass of the sample, corresponding to its mass after halogen heating, are measured using a precision balance. The experimental error linked to the measurement is about plus or minus 2%.
  • the Dry Extract content is calculated as follows:
  • the dry extract of the composition is higher than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably higher than or equal to 55% by weight, even more preferably higher than or equal to 57% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • the dry extract of the composition according to the invention is comprised between 55 and 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition, even more preferably comprised between 57 and 68% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises:
  • At least one physiologically-acceptable medium which preferably comprises at least one continuous aqueous phase or at least one continuous oily phase, more preferably at least one continuous aqueous phase,
  • an aqueous dispersion of particles selected from among the aqueous dispersions of acrylic film forming polymer(s), in particular styrene-acrylic, the aqueous dispersions of polyurethane polymer(s), in particular polyester-polyurethane and mixtures thereof,
  • cellulose polymer in particular hydroxyethylcellulose
  • At least one charge selected from among silicon particles, polyamide particles, particles of acrylic (co)polymers, polyurethane particles, talcs and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from among polymethylsilsesquioxane particles, particles of organopolysiloxane elastomer coated with silicone resin and organosilicon particles,
  • ком ⁇ онент preferably a non-ionic surfactant with HLB at 25°C less than 8
  • At least one polymeric dispersing agent which comprises at least one repeat unit (Ti) and at least one repeat unit (T 2 ), said repeat units having the following respective formulas: [Chem 2] in which: p is an integer ranging from 1 to 200, preferably from 50 to 150;
  • X is H or an alkaline or alkaline-earth metal, and is in particular Na or K; or X+ represents a quaternary ammonium;
  • R a represents a linear alkyl group comprising 1 to 4, and preferably 1 or 2 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl;
  • R et R’ are identical and each represents a linear alkyl group comprising 1 to 5, and preferably 1 or 2 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl;
  • - Ai represents a-CH 2 CH 2 0- radical
  • - A 2 represents a -CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -0- radical
  • compositions identical or different, independently represent an integer ranging from 0 to 50, preferably from 0 to 25; provided that the sum j + k is greater than or equal to 1 , and preferably greater than or equal to 50.
  • said composition being substantially wax-free, preferably comprising no wax.
  • Figure 1 is a schematic side view of an applicator according to a first embodiment of the invention
  • Figure 2 is a schematic cross-sectional view of an applicator according to a second embodiment of the invention.
  • FIGs 3 to 6 are schematic side views of applicators according to third, fourth, fifth and sixth embodiments of the invention.
  • FIG. 1 A first embodiment 10A of an applicator according to the invention is illustrated in Figure 1.
  • the applicator 10A comprises a gripping member 12 and an application member 14 carried or adapted to be carried by the gripping member 12.
  • the gripping member 12 is adapted to be grasped by a user for the application of the coating and/or cleansing composition of the invention on keratin matters.
  • the gripping member 12 extends along a longitudinal axis A up to a distal end 16.
  • the gripping member 12 comprises an elongate rod 18 along the longitudinal axis A.
  • the rod 18 has a constant diameter along the longitudinal axis A, in particular comprised between 3 mm and 8 mm, preferably between 4 mm and 6 mm.
  • the rod 18 has a diameter substantially equal to that of the application member.
  • Such a variant is advantageous to obtain a better wringing of the applicator and avoid an excessive non-wrung accumulation of the cosmetic composition at the proximal face 32 of the disk 22 the closest to the rod 18.
  • the application member 14 is removable from the gripping member
  • one of the two members 12, 14 has, for example, a non- represented endpiece adapted to cooperate with a non-represented fastening cavity defined in the other one of the two members 12, 14.
  • the application member 14 comprises at least one longitudinal support 20 extending according to a directrix curve C and a plurality of disks 22 extending transversely from the longitudinal support 20.
  • the directrix curve C is defined as passing through the geometric center of the cross-section of the longitudinal support 20.
  • the application member 14 comprises a number of disks 22 comprised between 10 and 30, advantageously comprised between 15 and 25.
  • the application member 14 extends between a proximal end 24 and a free distal end 26.
  • the proximal end 24 is secured or adapted to be secured to the gripping member 12, in particular to the distal end 16 of the gripping member 12.
  • the length of the application member 14 is comprised between 15 mm and 30 mm.
  • this length is defined as the distance between the proximal and distal ends 24, 26 of the application member 14, along the directrix curve C.
  • the longitudinal support 20 is straight.
  • longitudinal support 20 is aligned and in the continuation of the rod 18 of the gripping member 12.
  • the directrix curve C is herein a line and is aligned with the longitudinal axis A.
  • the longitudinal support 20 is herein centered on the geometric center of each disk 22.
  • the directrix curve C passes through the geometric center of each disk
  • the longitudinal support 20 has a constant cross-section outside the disks 22 along the directrix curve C.
  • the cross-section of the longitudinal support 20 has a largest dimension comprised between 1.5 mm and 5 mm.
  • the cross-section is circular. Said largest dimension of the constant cross-section then corresponds to the diameter.
  • the cross-section may have any other shape.
  • the longitudinal support 20 and the disks 22 are monolithic. In other words, they are made integral in one piece.
  • the longitudinal support 20 and the disks 22 are made of stainless steel or aluminum.
  • each disk 22 has an external peripheral contour 28 having a predetermined peripheral shape.
  • the predetermined peripheral shape is herein circular.
  • the predetermined peripheral shape has another shape, such as a random shape, a quadrilateral shape, a polygonal shape, a parallelogram shape, a square shape, a rectangular shape, an oval shape, or an oblong shape.
  • the disks 22 have the same predetermined peripheral shapes.
  • the predetermined peripheral shapes have the same dimensions.
  • each peripheral shape has a largest dimension comprised between 3 mm and 8 mm, preferably between 4 mm and 6 mm. In the illustrated example where the peripheral shapes are circular, said largest dimension corresponds to the diameter.
  • each disc 22 surrounds the longitudinal support 20 in a closed manner.
  • each disk 22 is solid.
  • At least one surface, extending up to the external peripheral contour 28 and contained in the disk 22, is solid.
  • each disk 22 has no orifices or through holes.
  • Each disk 22 has a distal face 30 and a proximal face 32.
  • the proximal face 32 of the disk 22 is intended to be closer to the gripping member 12 than the distal face 30 of the disk 22.
  • each disk 22 extends up to said external peripheral contour 28 of the disk 22.
  • each disk 22 is planar.
  • each disk 22 has a constant thickness.
  • the thickness of a disk 22 is herein defined as the distance, considered according to the longitudinal axis A, between the distal face 30 and the proximal face 32 of the disk 22.
  • the distal and proximal faces 30, 32 of the disk 22 are parallel to each other.
  • each thickness is comprised between 0.25 mm and 1.25 mm, preferably between 0.40 mm and 1 mm.
  • all of the thicknesses of the disks 22 are substantially identical.
  • each thickness is comprised between 90% and 110% of the average of the thicknesses of the disks 22 of the application member 14.
  • the distal and proximal faces 30, 32 of each disk 22 extend perpendicularly to the longitudinal support 20.
  • a face extends perpendicularly to the longitudinal support 20
  • the face extends perpendicularly to a tangent to the directrix curve C, the tangent being considered at the connection between the face and the support.
  • said faces extend in a non-perpendicular inclined manner with respect to the longitudinal support 20.
  • each disk 22 has a face opposite the other disk 22.
  • One of said faces is the proximal face 32 of one of the two disks 22, and the other one of said faces is the distal face 30 of the other one of the two disks 22.
  • adjacent disks two immediately contiguous disks 22.
  • two disks 22 are adjacent to each other if no other disk 22 is interposed therebetween.
  • Each disk 22 is longitudinally spaced apart from another adjacent disk 22 by a constant predetermined spacing.
  • the spacing between a pair of adjacent disks 22 is defined as the distance, considered according to the longitudinal axis A, between the two opposing faces of the disks 22.
  • each spacing is comprised between 0.30 mm and 2.5 mm.
  • this spacing is considered at the external peripheral contour 28 of the two adjacent disks 22.
  • each spacing is comprised between 90% and 110% of the average of the spacings of the application member 14.
  • Each pair of adjacent disks 22 defines a space 34 for receiving a cosmetic composition.
  • the receiving space 34 is delimited, in the longitudinal direction, by the two faces 30, 32 of the adjacent disks 22 disposed opposite each other.
  • the receiving space 34 is also radially delimited by the longitudinal support 20 and by an envelope parallel to the longitudinal support 20 and flush with the external peripheral contours 28 of the two adjacent disks 22.
  • the receiving space 34 has a depth comprised between 0.5 mm and 2 mm.
  • depth it should be understood in particular the difference between the largest dimension of the external peripheral contour 28 of one of the two adjacent disks 22 and the largest dimension of the cross-section of the longitudinal support 20 in line with the receiving space 34.
  • the receiving space 34 has a volume comprised between 2 mm 3 and 100 mm 3 , preferably between 5 mm 3 and 50 mm 3 .
  • one of the disks 22 defines the proximal end 24 of the application member 14 and another one of the disks 22 defines the distal end 26 of the application member 14.
  • the longitudinal support 20 stops at the proximal face 32 of the last one of the disks 22 of the application member 14.
  • the longitudinal support 20 does not project beyond the distal face 30 of the last one of the disks 22 of the application member 14.
  • the longitudinal support 20 is transversely offset with respect to the geometric center of the disks 22.
  • longitudinal support 20 is transversely offset with respect to the rod 18 of the gripping member 12.
  • the longitudinal support 20 extends at the periphery of the disks 22.
  • the longitudinal support 20 is then preferably flush with the external peripheral contour 28 of each disk 22.
  • the longitudinal support 20 is completely included in the external peripheral contour 28 of each disk 22.
  • the longitudinal support 20 does not project transversely with respect to the disks
  • Such a variant confers an increased depth of the spaces 34 for receiving a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, during use.
  • a second embodiment 10B will now be described, with reference to Figure 2. Only the differences between the first and second embodiments will be described later on.
  • Figure 2 is a schematic cross-sectional view of the applicator 10B, considered perpendicular to the directrix curve C.
  • each disk 22 is apertured.
  • each disk 22 is apertured throughout its thickness.
  • the apertured areas bear the reference 36.
  • At least 50%, for example at least 70%, of the surface delimited by the external peripheral contour 28 of the disk 22 is apertured.
  • each disk 22 preferably comprises a ring 38 connected to the longitudinal support 20.
  • each disk 22 further includes at least one branch 40, the ring 38 being connected to the longitudinal support 20 by the or each branch 40.
  • the ring 38 is connected to the longitudinal support 20 by four branches 40.
  • the ring 38 is connected by any other number of branch(es) 40, for example two, three, five or six branches 40.
  • the ring 38 defines said external peripheral contour 28 of the disk 22 and further delimits an internal peripheral contour 42.
  • the internal peripheral contour 42 is at a distance from the longitudinal support 20.
  • the width of the ring 38 is comprised between 0.5 mm and 1 .5 mm.
  • width it should herein be understood the radial distance separating the external peripheral contour 28 from the internal peripheral contour 42.
  • Each branch 40 connects the internal peripheral contour 42 to the longitudinal support 20.
  • each disk 22 is devoid of a branch such as that one defined hereinabove, the longitudinal support 20 is then transversely eccentric and passes through the ring 38 of each disk.
  • a third embodiment 10C will now be described, with reference to Figure 3. Only the differences between the first and third embodiments will be described later on.
  • the spacings of the application member 14 are not all identical.
  • At least two of the spacings are different.
  • the respective spacings between the pairs of adjacent disks 22 increase in the direction from one of the proximal and distal ends 24, 26 towards the other one of the proximal and distal ends 24, 26 of the application member 14.
  • the respective spacings between the pairs of adjacent disks 22 increase in the direction from the proximal end towards the distal end 26 of the application member 14.
  • each spacing is different from the others.
  • the increase is strict.
  • the increase is not strict.
  • the two spacings are equal.
  • At least half, even better at least three quarters, of the spacings of the application member 14 are then different.
  • the increase between two different successive spacings is higher than or equal to 5%, for example higher than or equal to 15%.
  • the spacing of one of the two successive pairs is larger than or equal to 105%, for example larger than or equal to 115%, the spacing of the other one of the two successive pairs.
  • the spacing of the pair at one of the proximal and distal ends 24, 26 of the application member 14 is larger than or equal to twice the spacing of the pair of the other one of the proximal and distal ends 24, 26 of the application member 14.
  • the longitudinal support 20 is transversely offset with respect to the geometric center of the disks 22.
  • longitudinal support 20 is transversely offset with respect to the rod 18 of the gripping member 12.
  • the longitudinal support 20 extends at the periphery of the disks 22.
  • the longitudinal support 20 is then preferably flush with the external peripheral contour 28 of each disk 22.
  • the longitudinal support 20 is centered on the geometric center of each disk 22.
  • a fourth embodiment 10D will now be described, with reference to Figure 4. Only the differences between the third and fourth embodiments will be described later on.
  • the respective spacings between the pairs of adjacent disks 22 increase in the direction from the distal end 26 towards the proximal end 24 of the application member 14.
  • a fifth embodiment 10E will now be described, with reference to Figure 4. Only the differences between the first and fifth embodiments will be described later on.
  • the spacings of the application member 14 are not all identical.
  • At least two of the spacings are different.
  • the respective spacings of the pairs of adjacent disks 22 successively alternate between a first spacing and a distinct second spacing. Thus, two successive spacings are different.
  • all pairs of adjacent disks 22 respectively have either the first spacing, or the second spacing.
  • two successive pairs of adjacent disks 22, having one disk 22 in common respectively have said first spacing and said second spacing.
  • the second spacing is at least larger than or equal to 1.5 times, advantageously at least larger than or equal to 2 times, even better at least larger than or equal to 3 times, the first spacing.
  • the largest spacing between the first and second spacings is strictly greater than 1.0 mm, preferably greater than or equal to 1 .5 mm.
  • Such an alternation confers a dual effect on the keratin fibers, namely both a visual effect of keratin fiber separation and a visual effect of significant charging with the cosmetic composition.
  • distal and proximal faces 30, 32 of each disk 22 are parallel and extend according to a non-perpendicular inclination with respect to the longitudinal support 20.
  • a sixth embodiment 10F will now be described, with reference to Figure 5. Only the differences between the first and fifth embodiments will be described later on.
  • the application member 14 of this sixth embodiment 10F is obtained by machining a rod, for example made of stainless steel, or by 3D printing.
  • proximal and distal faces 30, 32 of each disk 22 are inclined with respect to each other and join together at their peripheries.
  • the inclination of the faces 30, 32 is not perpendicular to the longitudinal support 20.
  • proximal and distal faces 30, 32 of each disk 22 have, for example, a planar region up to their peripheries and a rounding at the longitudinal support 20.
  • disk does not necessarily refer to a flat disk
  • face does not necessarily refer to a planar surface
  • the external peripheral contour 28 substantially corresponds to a peripheral line.
  • the external peripheral contour 28 has a thickness smaller than a tenth of the thickness of the disk 22 at the longitudinal support 20.
  • the proximal and distal faces of the disk 22 are, for example, symmetrical to each other with respect to a plane passing through said external peripheral contour 28.
  • each disk 22 has a thickness that varies radially between the longitudinal support 20 and the external peripheral contour 28.
  • each disk 22 is maximum at the longitudinal support 20.
  • each disk 22, considered at the longitudinal support 20, is advantageously comprised between 0.3 mm and 2.5 mm.
  • Each disk 22 is longitudinally spaced apart from another adjacent disk 22 by a spacing that radially varies between the longitudinal support 20 and the external peripheral contours of the two adjacent disks 22.
  • the spacing, considered at the external peripheral contour 28 of the two adjacent disks 22 is advantageously comprised between 0.30 mm and 2.5 mm.
  • the application member 14 differs from a helix in that the spaces 34 for receiving a cosmetic composition are separate from each other. In particular, there are as many receiving spaces 34 as pairs of adjacent disks 22.
  • the application member 14 comprises, at its distal end 26, a terminal pallet 44.
  • distal end 26 of the application member 1 is not defined by one of the disks 22.
  • the disks 22 of the application member 14 are interposed between the proximal end 24 of the application member 14 and said terminal pallet 44.
  • the terminal pallet 44 has a proximal face 46 extending opposite the distal face 30 of the disk 22 adjacent thereto.
  • the proximal face 46 of the terminal pallet 44 is parallel to the proximal face 32 of the disk 22 adjacent thereto.
  • the proximal face 46 of the terminal pallet 44 has an external peripheral contour 48 similar to that of the disk 22 adjacent thereto.
  • the thickness of the terminal pallet 44, at its external peripheral contour 48, is larger than or equal to the maximum thickness of each disk 22 of the application member 14.
  • the terminal pallet 44 is extended by a cone 50 extending longitudinally up to a longitudinal apex 52.
  • the longitudinal apex 52 of the cone 50 is centered on the directrix curve C.
  • the longitudinal apex 52 forms the distal end 26 of the application member 14.
  • the distance, considered along the longitudinal axis A, between the longitudinal apex 52 and the terminal pallet 44 is larger than or equal to the thickness of the terminal pallet 44 considered at its external peripheral contour 48.
  • Such a terminal pallet 44 and/or such a longitudinal apex 52 allow obtaining a proper wringing of the applicator 10F.
  • the longitudinal support 20 is curved.
  • the longitudinal support 20 then has a non-straight directrix curve C.
  • the directrix curve C has only one radius of curvature.
  • the radius of curvature is defined projected in a plane passing through the longitudinal axis.
  • the radius of curvature is not infinite.
  • the radius of curvature is comprised between 5.0 cm and 9.0 cm.
  • Such a radius of curvature allows seizing the entirety of the fringe of keratin fibers. In addition, this enables an intuitive placement of the application member 14 with respect to the curvature of the eyelid.
  • the distal and proximal faces 30, 32 of all disks 22 are parallel to each other.
  • the invention also covers any technically-feasible combination of the above- described embodiments, alternatives and variants.
  • the invention also covers a first embodiment of a kit comprising an applicator according to one of the embodiments, alternatives and variants hereinabove and the composition for coating and/or cleansing keratin matters according to the invention.
  • the invention also covers a second embodiment of a kit comprising a first applicator according to one of the embodiments, alternatives and variants hereinabove, and at least one second other applicator according to another one of the embodiments, alternatives and variants hereinabove.
  • the second embodiment of the kit comprises the composition for coating and/or cleansing keratin matters according to the invention.
  • the second embodiment of the kit comprises:
  • This example of a second embodiment of the kit enables the user to use at her convenience the applicator with which she is more comfortable, amongst the first one and second one, depending on whether the user is left-handed or right-handed.
  • the invention also covers a third embodiment of a kit comprising a gripping member 12, at least one first and one second distinct application members 14, selected from among one of the embodiments, alternatives and variants hereinabove.
  • the gripping member 12 is then separate from each of the first and second application members 14.
  • the first application member 14 is according to the third embodiment 10C of the applicator described hereinabove, wherein the respective spacings between the pairs of adjacent disks 22 increase in the direction from the proximal end towards the distal end 26 of the application member 14; and the second application member 14 is according to the fourth embodiment 10D of the applicator described hereinabove, wherein the respective spacings between the pairs of adjacent disks 22 increase in the direction from the distal end 26 towards the proximal end 24 of the application member 14.
  • This example of a third embodiment of the kit enables the user to use at her convenience the application member 14 with which she is more comfortable, amongst the first one and second one, depending on whether the user is left-handed or right-handed.
  • Another object of the present invention is a cosmetic kit for coating and/or cleansing keratin matters, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising: (i) a composition for coating and/or cleansing keratin matters, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, having an intrinsic coating capacity (ICC) higher than 1 mg, preferably higher than 2 mg, preferably higher than 3 mg, preferably higher than 4 mg, after one single passage of the applicator on said keratin matters, and
  • ICC intrinsic coating capacity
  • an applicator comprising a gripping member (12) and an application member (14) carried or adapted to be carried by the gripping member (12), comprising at least one longitudinal support (20) and a plurality of disks (22) extending transversely from the longitudinal support (20).
  • composition (i) and/or the applicator (ii) is(are) as described hereinabove.
  • Another object of the present invention is a cosmetic process for coating and/or cleansing keratin matters, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising the following steps:
  • an applicator comprising a gripping member (12) and an application member (14) carried or adapted to be carried by the gripping member (12), comprising at least one longitudinal support (20) and a plurality of disks (22) extending transversely from the longitudinal support (20);
  • composition (b) and/or the applicator (a) is(are) as described hereinabove.
  • the composition (b) advantageously comprises at least one physiologically-acceptable medium, at least one particle selected among coloring and non coloring matters, and at least one polymeric dispersing agent.
  • said composition (b) has an intrinsic coating capacity (ICC) higher than 1 mg, preferably higher than 2 mg, preferably higher than 3 mg, preferably higher than 4 mg, after one single passage on said keratin matters.
  • ICC intrinsic coating capacity
  • the intrinsic coating capacity (ICC) is measured by the following method:
  • a test sample (’’Monolash test sample”) is used comprising 4 fibers made of Tynex nylon (Dupont), with a diameter of 100 pm, a length of 13 mm, spaced apart by 5 mm and held between 2 metal plates with a thickness of 3 mm which are fastened to each other by a double-sided adhesive from 3M.
  • An application member is used comprising a rod, the rod having a diameter of 5 mm and comprising four peripheral circular grooves with a depth of 1.5 mm (hereinafter “model applicator”). The grooves are evenly spaced apart so that one single fiber is received per groove of the application member during application.
  • One single application is carried out with the model applicator per test sample, and each application is carried out at a speed of 40 mm/s.
  • the intrinsic coating capacity (ICC) value is measured from the relationship:
  • CEI - — - - n
  • m 0 is the mass of the Monolash test sample before application
  • rri f is the mass of the Monolash test sample after application
  • the application member of each of these ten applicators is made of the material VisiJet M3 Crystal (MJP) by the printer MJP HD 3600 from the brand 3D systems.
  • MJP VisiJet M3 Crystal
  • the directrix curves of the application members are substantially straight and pass through the geometric center of each disk.
  • Each disk has a circular external peripheral contour. None of the disks is apertured.
  • the longitudinal support of each application member has a constant cross-section outside the circular-shaped disks.
  • Thickness of the disks (mm) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
  • Constant spacing between the disks (mm) 1.0 1.0 2.0 2.0
  • Thickness of the disks (mm) 0.5 0.5
  • the application members are devoid of any terminal pallet.
  • the application manual gesture consists of a unique translational movement, from the base towards the end of the fibers.
  • the deposited amount of the formula is determined by weighting the test sample before and after make-up.
  • Used “Monolash” test samples The method for characterizing the ICC of a formula is based on the use of individual fibers, having geometric and mechanical properties similar to those of eyelashes, held on a test sample and made up through a unique passage with each applicator.
  • the used test sample comprises 4 fibers made of Tynex nylon (Dupont), with a diameter of 100 pm, a length of 13 mm, spaced apart by 5 mm and held between 2 metal plates with a thickness of 3 mm which are fastened to each other by a double-sided adhesive from 3M.
  • Tynex nylon Duont
  • FIG 7 Figure 7 shows four illustrations of the obtained results.
  • the applicator D1 :1 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 0.16 ⁇ 0.06mg.
  • the applicator D1 :2 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 0.30 ⁇ 0.13mg.
  • the applicator D2:1 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 0.20 ⁇ 0.14mg.
  • the applicator D2:2 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 0.16 ⁇ 0.13mg.
  • FIG 8 Figure 8 shows four illustrations of the obtained results.
  • the applicator D1 :1 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 3.7 ⁇ 0.9mg.
  • the applicator D1 :2 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 5.1 ⁇ 0.7mg.
  • the applicator D2:1 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 7.9 ⁇ 4.2mg.
  • the applicator D2:2 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 7.9 ⁇ 1 2mg.
  • the combination of the formula and of the applicator according to the invention allows obtaining a much more significant deposit than in the case of the comparative formula.
  • the applicator of the invention enables the formula according to the invention to express all of its coating potential.
  • FIG 9 Figure 9 shows two illustrations of the obtained results.
  • the applicator 11 :1 and 12:1 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 0.17 ⁇ 0.17mg.
  • the applicator 11 :1 and 12:1 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 0.30 ⁇ 0.15mg.
  • FIG 10 Figure 10 shows two illustrations of the obtained results.
  • the applicator 11 :1 and 12:1 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 2.47 ⁇ 0.6mg.
  • the applicator 11 :1 and 12:1 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 3.60 ⁇ 0.85mg.
  • the application manual gesture consists of a unique translational movement, from the base towards the end of the fibers.
  • the deposited amount of the formula is determined by weighting the test sample before and after make-up.
  • FIG 11 Figure 11 shows four illustrations of the obtained results.
  • the applicator D1 :1 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 13 ⁇ 7mg.
  • the applicator D1 :2 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 10 ⁇ 1 2mg.
  • the applicator D2:1 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 34 ⁇ 24mg.
  • the applicator D2:2 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 35 ⁇ 16mg.
  • a manual application of the formula D according to the protocol hereinabove, repeated on three hair test samples, with each applicator D1 :1 , D1 :2, D2:1 and D2:2 allow obtaining the results illustrated in Figure 12 and described hereinabove.
  • Figure 12 shows four illustrations of the obtained results.
  • the applicator D1 :1 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 55 ⁇ 5mg.
  • the applicator D1 :2 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 71 ⁇ 15mg.
  • the applicator D2:1 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 76 ⁇ 8mg.
  • the applicator D2:2 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 148 ⁇ 19mg.
  • the combination of the formula and of the applicator according to the invention allows obtaining a much more significant deposit than in the case of the comparative formula.
  • the applicator of the invention enables the formula according to the invention to express all of its coating potential.
  • the applicator D1 :1 leads to more coating on the root of the eyelash and less at the tip, but the applicator D1 :2 allows for more evenness of coating along each eyelash.
  • the use of the formula according to the invention in combination with the applicator according to the invention allows for a perfect charging of the eyelash fringe with the formula in one single make-up gesture.
  • FIG 13 Figure 13 shows two illustrations of the obtained results.
  • the applicator 11 :1 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 8.7 ⁇ 1 7mg.
  • the applicator 12:1 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 24.3 ⁇ 2mg.
  • FIG 14 Figure 14 shows two illustrations of the obtained results.
  • the applicator 11 :1 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 28.8 ⁇ 3mg.
  • the applicator 12:1 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 68.2 ⁇ 9mg.
  • FIG 15 Figure 15 shows two illustrations of the obtained results.
  • the applicator G0.5>2.3:1 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 70 ⁇ 7mg.
  • the applicator G0.5>2.3:2 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 92 ⁇ 25mg.
  • Figure 15 clearly shows that the applicators according to the third and fourth embodiments of the invention allow obtaining a gradient effect of the deposition of the formula of the invention on the eyelashes, and that being so in a unique make-up gesture.
  • the visual aspect of the deposit on the eyelash fringe could be modulated in one gesture.
  • FIG 16 Figure 16 shows two illustrations of the obtained results.
  • the applicator AO.5/1 .5:2 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 81 ⁇ 13mg.
  • the applicator A1/2:2 allows obtaining in average a deposit of 135 ⁇ 22mg.
  • Figure 16 clearly shows that the applicators according to the fifth embodiment of the invention allow obtaining a significant charging of the formula of the invention and a good separation of the eyelashes, and that being so in a unique make-up gesture.

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  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un kit cosmétique pour le recouvrement et/ou le nettoyage de matières kératiniques, en particulier des cils ou des sourcils, comprenant : (i) une composition pour le recouvrement et/ou le nettoyage de matières kératiniques, en particulier des cils ou des sourcils, la composition comprenant au moins un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins une particule choisie parmi les matières colorantes et non colorantes et au moins un agent dispersant polymère, et/ou la composition ayant un pouvoir couvrant intrinsèque (ICC) supérieur à 1 mg, (ii) un applicateur comprenant un élément de préhension (12) et un élément d'application (14) solidaire de ou conçu pour être solidaire de l'élément de préhension (12), comprenant au moins un support longitudinal (20) et une pluralité de disques (22) s'étendant transversalement à partir du support longitudinal (20).
PCT/EP2022/069294 2021-07-12 2022-07-11 Kit cosmétique et méthode de maquillage des cils WO2023285363A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR2107563A FR3124951B1 (fr) 2021-07-12 2021-07-12 Nécessaire cosmétique et procédé de maquillage des cils
FR2107563 2021-07-12

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WO2023285363A1 true WO2023285363A1 (fr) 2023-01-19

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Citations (13)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3998235A (en) * 1975-11-24 1976-12-21 Plough, Inc. Adjustable mascara applicator
JPS61194009A (ja) 1985-02-21 1986-08-28 Toray Silicone Co Ltd メ−クアツプ化粧料
EP0242219A2 (fr) 1986-04-17 1987-10-21 Toray Silicone Company, Ltd. Procédé pour préparer des poudres de caoutchouc silicone
EP0295886A2 (fr) 1987-06-16 1988-12-21 Toray Silicone Company, Limited Lotion faciale
US5188899A (en) 1989-12-18 1993-02-23 Toshiba Silicone Co., Ltd. Silica-core silicone-shell particles, emulsion containing the same dispersed therein, and process for producing the emulsion
EP0655234A1 (fr) * 1993-11-24 1995-05-31 L'oreal, S.A. Composition cosmétique pour le maquillage sous forme d'un mascara contenant au moins une cire et un pseudo-latex
WO1996033690A1 (fr) * 1995-04-28 1996-10-31 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions de mascara comprenant un materiau polymere insoluble dans l'eau et des polymeres filmogenes solubles dans l'eau
EP0765656A1 (fr) 1995-09-29 1997-04-02 Shiseido Company Limited Composition cosmétique comprenant une émulsion eau-dans-l'huile
EP0847752A1 (fr) 1996-11-26 1998-06-17 L'oreal Composition topique sans transfert comprenant un composé fluorosiliconé
US6034208A (en) 1997-08-25 2000-03-07 Arco Chemical Technology, L.P. Copolymers useful as cement additives and a process for their preparation
FR2792190A1 (fr) 1999-04-16 2000-10-20 Sophim Procede de fabrication d'un emollient non gras a base de cires-esters
FR2823104A1 (fr) * 2001-04-10 2002-10-11 Oreal Mascara comprenant un polymere acrylique
FR3066893A1 (fr) * 2017-05-30 2018-12-07 Sinwa Corporation Applicateur de produit cosmetique

Patent Citations (14)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3998235A (en) * 1975-11-24 1976-12-21 Plough, Inc. Adjustable mascara applicator
JPS61194009A (ja) 1985-02-21 1986-08-28 Toray Silicone Co Ltd メ−クアツプ化粧料
EP0242219A2 (fr) 1986-04-17 1987-10-21 Toray Silicone Company, Ltd. Procédé pour préparer des poudres de caoutchouc silicone
EP0295886A2 (fr) 1987-06-16 1988-12-21 Toray Silicone Company, Limited Lotion faciale
US5188899A (en) 1989-12-18 1993-02-23 Toshiba Silicone Co., Ltd. Silica-core silicone-shell particles, emulsion containing the same dispersed therein, and process for producing the emulsion
EP0655234A1 (fr) * 1993-11-24 1995-05-31 L'oreal, S.A. Composition cosmétique pour le maquillage sous forme d'un mascara contenant au moins une cire et un pseudo-latex
WO1996033690A1 (fr) * 1995-04-28 1996-10-31 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions de mascara comprenant un materiau polymere insoluble dans l'eau et des polymeres filmogenes solubles dans l'eau
EP0765656A1 (fr) 1995-09-29 1997-04-02 Shiseido Company Limited Composition cosmétique comprenant une émulsion eau-dans-l'huile
EP0847752A1 (fr) 1996-11-26 1998-06-17 L'oreal Composition topique sans transfert comprenant un composé fluorosiliconé
US6034208A (en) 1997-08-25 2000-03-07 Arco Chemical Technology, L.P. Copolymers useful as cement additives and a process for their preparation
FR2792190A1 (fr) 1999-04-16 2000-10-20 Sophim Procede de fabrication d'un emollient non gras a base de cires-esters
FR2823104A1 (fr) * 2001-04-10 2002-10-11 Oreal Mascara comprenant un polymere acrylique
EP1249225A1 (fr) * 2001-04-10 2002-10-16 L'oreal Mascara comprenant un polymère acrylique
FR3066893A1 (fr) * 2017-05-30 2018-12-07 Sinwa Corporation Applicateur de produit cosmetique

Non-Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
"Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER", vol. 22, 1979, WILEY, pages: 333 - 432
J. SOC. COSM. CHEM., vol. 5, 1954, pages 249 - 256

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FR3124951A1 (fr) 2023-01-13

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