WO2023237762A1 - Composition comprising nonionic surfactant(s) of alkylpolyglycoside type, polyol(s), c8-c30 fatty acid ester(s) of sorbitan and cationic polymer(s) - Google Patents
Composition comprising nonionic surfactant(s) of alkylpolyglycoside type, polyol(s), c8-c30 fatty acid ester(s) of sorbitan and cationic polymer(s) Download PDFInfo
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- WO2023237762A1 WO2023237762A1 PCT/EP2023/065541 EP2023065541W WO2023237762A1 WO 2023237762 A1 WO2023237762 A1 WO 2023237762A1 EP 2023065541 W EP2023065541 W EP 2023065541W WO 2023237762 A1 WO2023237762 A1 WO 2023237762A1
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- Prior art keywords
- sorbitan
- weight
- composition
- composition according
- polymers
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 117
- -1 fatty acid ester Chemical class 0.000 title claims abstract description 62
- JNYAEWCLZODPBN-JGWLITMVSA-N (2r,3r,4s)-2-[(1r)-1,2-dihydroxyethyl]oxolane-3,4-diol Chemical compound OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O JNYAEWCLZODPBN-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 title claims abstract description 40
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 title claims abstract description 28
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 28
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 title claims abstract description 28
- 229920006317 cationic polymer Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 20
- 229920005862 polyol Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 18
- 150000003077 polyols Chemical class 0.000 title claims abstract description 18
- 239000002736 nonionic surfactant Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 17
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 239000003945 anionic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 44
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 43
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 34
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 20
- 150000003254 radicals Chemical class 0.000 claims description 20
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 17
- 229930182470 glycoside Natural products 0.000 claims description 15
- 150000002338 glycosides Chemical class 0.000 claims description 15
- 244000303965 Cyamopsis psoralioides Species 0.000 claims description 14
- VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M Chloride anion Chemical compound [Cl-] VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 13
- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 claims description 13
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 claims description 12
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 11
- 125000004435 hydrogen atom Chemical group [H]* 0.000 claims description 11
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- 229920000768 polyamine Polymers 0.000 claims description 10
- NWGKJDSIEKMTRX-AAZCQSIUSA-N Sorbitan monooleate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O NWGKJDSIEKMTRX-AAZCQSIUSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
- 150000001450 anions Chemical class 0.000 claims description 9
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 9
- 125000001453 quaternary ammonium group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 9
- 229950004959 sorbitan oleate Drugs 0.000 claims description 9
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 claims description 8
- 229920001519 homopolymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 7
- 125000004433 nitrogen atom Chemical group N* 0.000 claims description 7
- 229920001282 polysaccharide Polymers 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000005017 polysaccharide Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 claims description 7
- CPELXLSAUQHCOX-UHFFFAOYSA-M Bromide Chemical compound [Br-] CPELXLSAUQHCOX-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 6
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- WHNWPMSKXPGLAX-UHFFFAOYSA-N N-Vinyl-2-pyrrolidone Chemical group C=CN1CCCC1=O WHNWPMSKXPGLAX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 125000002947 alkylene group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000002280 amphoteric surfactant Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 229940080421 coco glucoside Drugs 0.000 claims description 6
- 150000004820 halides Chemical class 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000006116 polymerization reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- UFTFJSFQGQCHQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N triformin Chemical compound O=COCC(OC=O)COC=O UFTFJSFQGQCHQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- OMDQUFIYNPYJFM-XKDAHURESA-N (2r,3r,4s,5r,6s)-2-(hydroxymethyl)-6-[[(2r,3s,4r,5s,6r)-4,5,6-trihydroxy-3-[(2s,3s,4s,5s,6r)-3,4,5-trihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-2-yl]oxyoxan-2-yl]methoxy]oxane-3,4,5-triol Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@@H]1OC[C@@H]1[C@@H](O[C@H]2[C@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)O1 OMDQUFIYNPYJFM-XKDAHURESA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 241000196324 Embryophyta Species 0.000 claims description 5
- 229920000926 Galactomannan Polymers 0.000 claims description 5
- HVUMOYIDDBPOLL-XWVZOOPGSA-N Sorbitan monostearate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O HVUMOYIDDBPOLL-XWVZOOPGSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- FGUZFFWTBWJBIL-XWVZOOPGSA-N [(1r)-1-[(2s,3r,4s)-3,4-dihydroxyoxolan-2-yl]-2-hydroxyethyl] 16-methylheptadecanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)O[C@H](CO)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O FGUZFFWTBWJBIL-XWVZOOPGSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 claims description 5
- 125000000623 heterocyclic group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 5
- 150000007522 mineralic acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 5
- 150000007524 organic acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 5
- 229920001281 polyalkylene Polymers 0.000 claims description 5
- 229940057429 sorbitan isostearate Drugs 0.000 claims description 5
- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- SVTBMSDMJJWYQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methylpentane-2,4-diol Chemical compound CC(O)CC(C)(C)O SVTBMSDMJJWYQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O Ammonium Chemical group [NH4+] QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 claims description 4
- IJGRMHOSHXDMSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Atomic nitrogen Chemical compound N#N IJGRMHOSHXDMSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000004215 Carbon black (E152) Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-GASJEMHNSA-N Glucose Natural products OC[C@H]1OC(O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-GASJEMHNSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- IYFATESGLOUGBX-YVNJGZBMSA-N Sorbitan monopalmitate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O IYFATESGLOUGBX-YVNJGZBMSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000004147 Sorbitan trioleate Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- PRXRUNOAOLTIEF-ADSICKODSA-N Sorbitan trioleate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](OC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC PRXRUNOAOLTIEF-ADSICKODSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- IJCWFDPJFXGQBN-RYNSOKOISA-N [(2R)-2-[(2R,3R,4S)-4-hydroxy-3-octadecanoyloxyoxolan-2-yl]-2-octadecanoyloxyethyl] octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC IJCWFDPJFXGQBN-RYNSOKOISA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- LWZFANDGMFTDAV-BURFUSLBSA-N [(2r)-2-[(2r,3r,4s)-3,4-dihydroxyoxolan-2-yl]-2-hydroxyethyl] dodecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O LWZFANDGMFTDAV-BURFUSLBSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000003118 aryl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 4
- QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N atomic oxygen Chemical compound [O] QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 229940071160 cocoate Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- JDRSMPFHFNXQRB-IBEHDNSVSA-N decyl glucoside Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCO[C@@H]1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O JDRSMPFHFNXQRB-IBEHDNSVSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000001495 ethyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000008103 glucose Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910052760 oxygen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000001301 oxygen Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000004193 piperazinyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 4
- YPFDHNVEDLHUCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N propane-1,3-diol Chemical compound OCCCO YPFDHNVEDLHUCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 229950006451 sorbitan laurate Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- 235000011067 sorbitan monolaureate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- 235000019337 sorbitan trioleate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- 229960000391 sorbitan trioleate Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000001589 sorbitan tristearate Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 235000011078 sorbitan tristearate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- 229960004129 sorbitan tristearate Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- 235000000346 sugar Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- CUNWUEBNSZSNRX-RKGWDQTMSA-N (2r,3r,4r,5s)-hexane-1,2,3,4,5,6-hexol;(z)-octadec-9-enoic acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO.OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO.CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O.CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O.CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O CUNWUEBNSZSNRX-RKGWDQTMSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- PAFJZWHXMSQJKV-UQZRNVAESA-N (3r,4s)-2-[(1r)-1,2-dihydroxyethyl]oxolane-3,4-diol;octadecanoic acid Chemical compound OC[C@@H](O)C1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O.OC[C@@H](O)C1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O.OC[C@@H](O)C1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O PAFJZWHXMSQJKV-UQZRNVAESA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- ONJPCDHZCFGTSI-NJYHNNHUSA-N CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O ONJPCDHZCFGTSI-NJYHNNHUSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Malonic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)=O OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- AQKOHYMKBUOXEB-RYNSOKOISA-N [(2R)-2-[(2R,3R,4S)-4-hydroxy-3-(16-methylheptadecanoyloxy)oxolan-2-yl]-2-(16-methylheptadecanoyloxy)ethyl] 16-methylheptadecanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C AQKOHYMKBUOXEB-RYNSOKOISA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- NENOAJSZZPODGJ-OIMNJJJWSA-N [(2r)-2-[(2r,3r,4s)-3,4-dihydroxyoxolan-2-yl]-2-hydroxyethyl] octanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O NENOAJSZZPODGJ-OIMNJJJWSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- TTZKGYULRVDFJJ-GIVMLJSASA-N [(2r)-2-[(2s,3r,4s)-3,4-dihydroxyoxolan-2-yl]-2-[(z)-octadec-9-enoyl]oxyethyl] (z)-octadec-9-enoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](OC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O TTZKGYULRVDFJJ-GIVMLJSASA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- PZQBWGFCGIRLBB-NJYHNNHUSA-N [(2r)-2-[(2s,3r,4s)-3,4-dihydroxyoxolan-2-yl]-2-octadecanoyloxyethyl] octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O PZQBWGFCGIRLBB-NJYHNNHUSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000007513 acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000001408 amides Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000002768 hydroxyalkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000005395 methacrylic acid group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 3
- 229910052757 nitrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000002924 primary amino group Chemical group [H]N([H])* 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000001436 propyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 229950003429 sorbitan palmitate Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- 229960005078 sorbitan sesquioleate Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- 229950011392 sorbitan stearate Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000005208 trialkylammonium group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 3
- 229940058015 1,3-butylene glycol Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- OSSNTDFYBPYIEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-ethenylimidazole Chemical group C=CN1C=CN=C1 OSSNTDFYBPYIEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- SLRMQYXOBQWXCR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2154-56-5 Chemical compound [CH2]C1=CC=CC=C1 SLRMQYXOBQWXCR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Caprylic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC(O)=O WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N D-Glucitol Natural products OC[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N D-glucitol Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- JDRSMPFHFNXQRB-CMTNHCDUSA-N Decyl beta-D-threo-hexopyranoside Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCO[C@@H]1O[C@H](CO)C(O)[C@H](O)C1O JDRSMPFHFNXQRB-CMTNHCDUSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- QEVGZEDELICMKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diglycolic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)COCC(O)=O QEVGZEDELICMKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- BWGNESOTFCXPMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dihydrogen disulfide Chemical compound SS BWGNESOTFCXPMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000019487 Hazelnut oil Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000019493 Macadamia oil Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000003434 Sesamum indicum Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 244000000231 Sesamum indicum Species 0.000 claims description 2
- NINIDFKCEFEMDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sulfur Chemical compound [S] NINIDFKCEFEMDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000019486 Sunflower oil Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N acrylic acid group Chemical group C(C=C)(=O)O NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000002252 acyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000002723 alicyclic group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000001931 aliphatic group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000003282 alkyl amino group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000029936 alkylation Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000005804 alkylation reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- OBETXYAYXDNJHR-UHFFFAOYSA-N alpha-ethylcaproic acid Natural products CCCCC(CC)C(O)=O OBETXYAYXDNJHR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000003368 amide group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000010477 apricot oil Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000021302 avocado oil Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000008163 avocado oil Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000019437 butane-1,3-diol Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940083979 caprylyl glucoside Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000004359 castor oil Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000019438 castor oil Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000009833 condensation Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000005494 condensation Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940073499 decyl glucoside Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000004427 diamine group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940105990 diglycerin Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- GPLRAVKSCUXZTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N diglycerol Chemical compound OCC(O)COCC(O)CO GPLRAVKSCUXZTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- SZXQTJUDPRGNJN-UHFFFAOYSA-N dipropylene glycol Chemical compound OCCCOCCCO SZXQTJUDPRGNJN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000004185 ester group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 2
- ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N glycerol triricinoleate Natural products CCCCCC[C@@H](O)CC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](COC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@@H](O)CCCCCC)OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@H](O)CCCCCC ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000003827 glycol group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000008169 grapeseed oil Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000010468 hazelnut oil Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- JLRBNGCMXSGALP-UHFFFAOYSA-N heptanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)=O.CCCCCCC(O)=O JLRBNGCMXSGALP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- MNWFXJYAOYHMED-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexane carboxylic acid Natural products CCCCCCC(O)=O MNWFXJYAOYHMED-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940051250 hexylene glycol Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- PYIDGJJWBIBVIA-UYTYNIKBSA-N lauryl glucoside Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCO[C@@H]1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O PYIDGJJWBIBVIA-UYTYNIKBSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940048848 lauryl glucoside Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000010469 macadamia oil Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000002825 nitriles Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- AEIJTFQOBWATKX-UHFFFAOYSA-N octane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)CO AEIJTFQOBWATKX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000002801 octanoyl group Chemical group C(CCCCCCC)(=O)* 0.000 claims description 2
- HEGSGKPQLMEBJL-RKQHYHRCSA-N octyl beta-D-glucopyranoside Chemical compound CCCCCCCCO[C@@H]1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O HEGSGKPQLMEBJL-RKQHYHRCSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000003647 oxidation Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000007254 oxidation reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCC(O)CO WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000004885 piperazines Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000006068 polycondensation reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- DUIOPKIIICUYRZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N semicarbazide Chemical compound NNC(N)=O DUIOPKIIICUYRZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000003549 soybean oil Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000012424 soybean oil Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000008163 sugars Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000003457 sulfones Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000003462 sulfoxides Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000011593 sulfur Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052717 sulfur Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000004434 sulfur atom Chemical group 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000002600 sunflower oil Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000005687 corn oil Nutrition 0.000 claims 1
- 239000002285 corn oil Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 125000005842 heteroatom Chemical group 0.000 claims 1
- 238000005956 quaternization reaction Methods 0.000 claims 1
- 125000000467 secondary amino group Chemical group [H]N([*:1])[*:2] 0.000 claims 1
- 210000004761 scalp Anatomy 0.000 description 11
- 229920002678 cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 9
- 235000010980 cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 9
- 229920000663 Hydroxyethyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 8
- 230000003745 detangling effect Effects 0.000 description 7
- HRPVXLWXLXDGHG-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acrylamide Chemical compound NC(=O)C=C HRPVXLWXLXDGHG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 206010019049 Hair texture abnormal Diseases 0.000 description 6
- WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N adipic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCC(O)=O WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 239000001913 cellulose Substances 0.000 description 6
- 230000006835 compression Effects 0.000 description 6
- 238000007906 compression Methods 0.000 description 6
- 230000003020 moisturizing effect Effects 0.000 description 6
- 125000000129 anionic group Chemical group 0.000 description 5
- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical group 0.000 description 5
- 235000019447 hydroxyethyl cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 5
- 229910052500 inorganic mineral Inorganic materials 0.000 description 5
- 239000011707 mineral Substances 0.000 description 5
- OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4-[4-(tert-butylcarbamoyl)anilino]-6-[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)NC(C)(C)C)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene oxide Chemical compound C1CO1 IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
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Classifications
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/737—Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
- A61K2800/34—Free of silicones
Definitions
- TITLE Composition comprising nonionic surfactant(s) of alkylpolyglycoside type, polyol(s), C8-C30 fatty acid ester(s) of sorbitan and cationic polymer(s)
- the present invention relates to a composition useful for cleansing keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, which comprises nonionic surfactant(s) of alkylpoly glyco side type, polyol(s), C8-C30 fatty acid ester(s) of sorbitan and cationic polymer(s).
- the composition of the invention is preferably free of anionic surfactants.
- the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for cleansing keratin fibres using such a composition.
- their scalp may also be dry and itchy.
- compositions that do not have the drawbacks described above, i.e. which are able to cleanse the hair gently and efficiently as well as to bring a moisturizing effect in order to reduce the discomfort for users having curly or kinky hair.
- compositions shall also improve the combing, styling and detangling properties of the hair, in particular curly hair to kinky hair while reducing knots and avoiding breakage or damage of the fibers.
- a composition comprising a combination of nonionic surfactant(s) of alkylpolyglycoside type, polyol(s), sorbitan ester(s) and cationic polymer(s) makes it possible to achieve the objectives outlined above.
- hair treated with such a combination offers efficient but gentle cleansing properties while enhancing the moisture of the hair.
- Hair moisture is associated with three attributes: i) hair health, ii) look & feel and lastly iii) manageability.
- Hair health refers to how nourished the hair is, scalp moisture, hair integrity and hair growth while hair look & feel refer to shine, softness, smoothness, texture and color.
- the real-life assessment of hair moisturization for women have chemically or non-chemically processed hair is the ease manageability: how easy the hair is to detangle, comb and achieve a desired style.
- composition comprising:
- nonionic surfactants of alkylpolyglycoside type present in an amount of at least 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition
- the composition of the present invention provides a very efficient cleansing of the hair and the scalp with an immediate moisturizing effect. Moreover, the moisturizing effect can last at least 48 hours after the use of the composition.
- the condition of hair is improved, especially the softness of the hair. The hair is also healthier and stronger, allowing it to better resist to combing and detangling.
- the hair is easier to comb and detangle and presents better cosmetic properties, particularly in terms of smoothness, suppleness and shine.
- the hair is also more manageable leading thus to a better styling, and presents less breakage.
- composition of the present invention also provides a lasting moisturizing effect to the scalp, therefore reducing the discomfort and the itchiness thereof.
- composition of the invention has a reduced water footprint and a good biodegradability.
- the composition confers immediate fiber transformation to the hair and imparts moisturizing, emollient and protective properties to the hair and to the scalp.
- the composition provides instant softness and hydration to the hair fibers.
- composition conducts to a slight waxy coating on the hair, which results an improvement in the smoothness and suppleness of the hair fibers.
- This slightly waxy coating thus aids in the combing and detangling of the hair to facilitate styling.
- the composition according to the invention also has a good moisturizing effect on the scalp. Without being bound by this theory, it is known that curly hair and scalp, and more particularly frizzy hair and scalp, can be naturally dry, with little production of sebum. This type of hair needs to be permanently nourished and hydrated.
- the composition according to the invention contributes in hair hydration and thus improves its strength and resistance (hair less fragile or brittle) as well as its softness.
- the composition according to the invention is particularly useful for treating curly or frizzy hair.
- the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for cleansing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, which consists in applying to said keratin fibres a composition as previously defined.
- the term "free of" a component refers to a composition which contains less than 0.1% by weight of said component, preferably which does not contain (0%) said component, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention is free of anionic surfactants.
- composition of the invention is free of amphoteric surfactants.
- composition of the invention is free of anionic surfactants and of amphoteric surfactants.
- the composition of the invention is free of silicones.
- the composition is free of anionic surfactants, of amphoteric surfactants and of silicones.
- Nonionic surfactants of alkylpoly glycoside type are nonionic surfactants of alkylpoly glycoside type
- composition according to the invention comprises one or more nonionic surfactants of alkylpoly glyco side type, present in an amount of at least 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the nonionic surfactants of alkylpoly glyco side type which may be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from the compounds of the following general formula: RlO-(R2O)t-(G)v in which: - R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical, the linear or branched alkyl radical of which comprises from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms
- - G represents a sugar unit comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms
- - 1 denotes a number ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,
- - v denotes a number ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.
- nonionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type are compounds of the formula described above in which:
- R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms
- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms
- - 1 denotes a number ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,
- - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose
- the degree of polymerization that is to say the value of v, being able to range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being of between 1 and 2.
- the glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of 1-4 type.
- the alkyl(poly)glycoside is an alkyl(poly)glucoside.
- Preference is very particularly given to C8-C18 alkyl (l,4)-(poly)glucosides, and in particular coco-glucoside.
- the composition comprises one or more alkyl(poly)glycosides chosen from, alone or as a mixture, (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides.
- the nonionic surfactant of alkylpolyglycoside type is chosen from decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, coco glucoside, capryl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside and their mixtures.
- the nonionic surfactant of alkylpolyglycoside type is coco-glucoside.
- the total amount of the nonionic surfactant(s) of alkylpolyglycoside type ranges from 4 to 15 % by weight, preferentially from 4.5 to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the total amount of (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides ranges from 4 to 15 % by weight, preferentially from 4.5 to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the total amount of (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides ranges from 4 to 15 % by weight, preferentially from 4.5 to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the total amount of coco-glucoside ranges from 4 to 15 % by weight, preferentially from 4.5 to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention comprises one or more polyols.
- the polyols of the invention are different from the alkylpolyglycosides previously described, and are different from polysaccharides.
- polyol within the meaning of the present invention is meant an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and carrying at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) carried by different carbon atoms, it being possible for this compound to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
- the hydrocarbon chain comprises from 2 to 10, more preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, better still from 2 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably the hydrocarbon chain is linear or branched, and saturated.
- the polyol(s) comprise(s) from 2 to 30 hydroxy groups, more preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, even more preferably from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups.
- the polyol(s) comprise(s) from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and from 2 to 3 OH groups.
- the polyols may be chosen from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane- 1,3 -diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane- 1,2-diol, octane- 1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerin.
- the total amount of polyol(s) ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, and better still from 2 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the total amount of polyols comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and from 2 to 3 OH groups ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, and better still from 2 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the total amount of glycerin ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, and better still from 2 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention comprises one or more C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan.
- the C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan may be oxyethylenated or non- oxyethylenated.
- the non-oxyethylenated C8-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acid esters (especially monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan may be chosen from: sorbitan caprylate; sorbitan cocoate; sorbitan isostearate; sorbitan laurate; sorbitan oleate; sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate; sorbitan diisostearate; sorbitan dioleate; sorbitan distearate; sorbitan sesquicaprylate; sorbitan sesquiisostearate; sorbitan sesquioleate; sorbitan sesquistearate; sorbitan triisostearate; sorbitan trioleate; and sorbitan tristearate, more preferably sorbitan oleate.
- the polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (especially monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan containing especially from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters of C12- C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic, oleic acid, of sorbitan containing especially from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, such as:
- the polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (especially monoesters, diesters, triesters and tetraesters) of sorbitan, containing especially from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters, containing especially from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide, of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic acid, of sorbitan, such as:
- the polyoxyethylenated esters especially containing from 2 to 20 OE
- the polyoxyethylenated esters especially containing from 2 to 20 OE
- sorbitan and of isostearic acid such as PEG-2 sorbitan isostearate; PEG-5 sorbitan isostearate; PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate such as the product sold under the name Nikkol TI 10 V by the company Nikkol
- the polyoxyethylenated esters especially containing from 2 to 20 OE
- sorbitan and of lauric acid such as PEG- 10 sorbitan laurate
- the polyoxyethylenated esters especially containing from 3 to 20 OE
- sorbitan and of stearic acid such as PEG-3 sorbitan stearate; PEG-4 sorbitan stearate; PEG-6 sorbitan stearate.
- the C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan are preferably chosen from non- oxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, preferably from non- oxyethylenated C12-C22 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, and even more preferably from: sorbitan caprylate; sorbitan cocoate; sorbitan isostearate; sorbitan laurate; sorbitan oleate; sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate; sorbitan diisostearate; sorbitan dioleate; sorbitan distearate; sorbitan sesquicaprylate; sorbitan sesquiisostearate; sorbitan sesquioleate; sorbitan sesquistearate; sorbitan triisostearate; sorbitan trioleate; and sorbitan tristearate and mixture thereof.
- the C8-C30 fatty acid ester of sorbitan is sorbitan oleate.
- the total amount of C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan ranges from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the total amount of non-oxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan ranges from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the total amount of sorbitan oleate ranges from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention also comprises on or more cationic polymers.
- cationic polymer refers to any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups ionizable into cationic groups.
- the preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups which can either form part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto.
- the cationic polymers according to the invention do not comprise any anionic group or any group ionizable to an anionic group.
- the cationic polymers that may be used have a weight- average molar mass (Mw) of between about 500 and 5.106, preferably of between about 103 and 3.106.
- cationic polymers mention may be made more particularly of:
- - R3 which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical
- - A which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxy alkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R4 R4, Rs and Re, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- Ri and R2 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;
- the copolymers of the family (1) may also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower alkyls (C1-C4), acrylic acids or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
- - polymers preferably crosslinked polymers, of methacryloyloxy(Cl C4)alkyltri(Cl-C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide.
- methacryloyloxy(Cl C4)alkyltri(Cl-C4)alkylammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride,
- Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil.
- This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba.
- Use may also be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.
- cationic polysaccharides notably cationic celluloses, guar gums and galactomannan gums.
- cationic polysaccharides mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, cationic guar gums and cationic galactomannan gums.
- the cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups are notably described in FR 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
- Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described notably in patent US 4 131 576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses notably grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
- the commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
- cationic associative celluloses which may be chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular quaternized celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
- groups including at least one fatty chain such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
- groups including at least one fatty chain such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24 or even from 10 to 14 carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
- Ra, Rb and Rc which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Cl to C30 alkyl, preferably an alkyl, and Q" represents an anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide;
- R’ represents an ammonium group R’aR’bR’cN + -, Q’’ in which R’a, R’b and R’c, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Cl to C30 alkyl, preferably an alkyl, and Q’- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide; it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b and R’c represents a linear or branched C8 to C30 alkyl;
- x and y which may be identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10000.
- At least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b or R’c represents a linear or branched C8 to C30, better still CIO to C24 or even CIO to C14 alkyl; mention may be made in particular of the dodecyl radical (C12).
- the other radical(s) represent a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl, notably methyl.
- radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b or R’c represents a linear or branched C8 to C30, better still CIO to C24 or even CIO to C14 alkyl; mention may be made in particular of the dodecyl radical (C12).
- the other radicals represent a linear or branched Cl to C4 alkyl, notably methyl.
- R may be a group chosen from -N + (CH3)3, Q’“ and - N + (Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q”, preferably a group -N + (CH3)3, Q’’.
- R’ may be a group -N + (Ci2H2s)(CH3)2, Q’“.
- the aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
- C18 alkyl such as the product Crodacel QS®, sold by the company Croda.
- R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R’ represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide
- R represents trimethylammonium chloride
- CP represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride
- CH3(Ci2H2s)N + -, Cl represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride
- This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; as commercial products, mention may be made of the Softcat Polymer SL® polymers, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5, from the company Amerchol/Dow Chemical.
- the polymers of formula (VI) are, for example, those whose viscosity is between 2000 and 3000 cPs inclusive, preferentially between 2700 and 2800 cPs (between 2.7 and 2.8 Pa.s).
- Softcat Polymer SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs (2.5 Pa.s)
- Softcat Polymer SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs
- Softcat Polymer SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs (2.7 Pa.s)
- Softcat Polymer SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs (2.8 Pa.s).
- Use may also be made of Softcat Polymer SX-1300X with a viscosity of between 1000 and 2000 cPs (between 1 and 2 Pa.s).
- the cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, a chloride).
- the cationic guar may be chosen from products with INCI name hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride or guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Such products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar Cl 62 by the company Rhodia.
- polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis- haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis- azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamide
- polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/ dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical includes from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl.
- alkyl radical includes from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl.
- these derivatives mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/ dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.
- Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc.
- R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
- Rio and Rn independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxy alkyl group in which the alkyl group contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a Cl to C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively Rio and Rn may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Rio and Rn, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and
- - Y’ is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
- R13, R14, RIS and Ri6 which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or alternatively R13, Ru, Ris and Ri6, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom, or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and Ri6 represent a linear or branched Cl to C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
- - Ai and Bi represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups; and
- - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; it being understood that Ai, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; in addition, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxy alkylene radical, Bi can also denote a group (CH2) n CO-D-OC- (CH2)n- in which D denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2-CH2-O)x-CH2-CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)-, where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b)
- X" is an anion, such as chloride or bromide.
- Mn number- average molar mass
- Ris, R19, R20 and R21 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, P-hydroxyethyl, P-hydroxypropyl or CH2CH2(OCH2CH2) P OH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer of between 1 and 6, with the proviso that Ris, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
- - r and s which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
- - X denotes an anion, such as a halide
- - A denotes a dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2- CH2 .
- Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® ADI, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.
- polyamines such as Poly quart® H sold by Cognis, which is referenced under the name Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.
- these polymers may be notably chosen from homopolymers or copolymers including one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
- these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers including, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).
- These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.
- the weight- average molecular mass of said polymer measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500000 g/mol.
- the cationic charge density of these polymers may range from 2 meq/g to 20 meq/g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq/g and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq/g.
- the polymers including units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are notably sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
- the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from cationic polysaccharides (family (2)) and mixtures thereof, more preferably from cationic galactomannan gums and mixtures thereof, preferentially from cationic guar gums and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and mixtures thereof, and better still from guar gums modified with a 2,3- epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt.
- the total amount of the cationic polymer(s) ranges from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the total amount of the cationic polysaccharide(s) ranges from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, or even from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the total amount of cationic guar gums ranges from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, or even from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Oils of triglyceride type Oils of triglyceride type
- composition of the invention may also comprise oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
- the triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, com oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
- the total amount of triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin ranges preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, preferentially from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more additive(s) other than the compounds of the invention.
- amphoteric surfactants amphoteric, anionic or non-ionic polymers, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including tocopherol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, mineral or organic thickeners, especially polymeric thickeners, opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances and preserving agents.
- vitamins and provitamins including tocopherol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, mineral or organic thickeners, especially polymeric thickeners, opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances and preserving agents.
- the above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0.001% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Another object of the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for cleansing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, which consists in applying to said keratin fibres a composition as previously defined, and after an optional leave-on time, optionally removing it by rinsing.
- the composition may preferably be removed by rinsing with water.
- the fibres may then be dried or left to dry.
- the leave-on time of the composition on the keratin fibres may range from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.
- composition may be applied to wet or dry keratin fibres, preferably wet keratin fibres.
- keratin fibres denotes human keratin fibres, and in particular human hair.
- compositions are indicated as mass percentages of active material (am) relative to the total weight of the composition.
- compositions Al and A2 (according to the invention) and C (comparative) were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below.
- Protocol for product application
- compositions Al and A2 (according to the invention) and C (comparative), as well as a further composition D (a standard shampoo on the market, comparative) were applied to wet hair (naturally curly hair, curl pattern 4-5 or 7-8).
- the standard protocol for assessing detangling is conducted on bleached multi ethnic hair (Curl pattern 4-5). The following protocol was used for each composition Al, A2 and D, a standard shampoo on the market:
- the product amount applied was 0.4g/g of hair, with 30 seconds of massaging, 1 min leave-in period, followed by 30 second rinse step.
- compositions according to the invention improve the detangling of the hair in a very important manner. d) Hair Softness of dry hair
- the compression method was developed to simulate the consumer action of assessing softness by touching and scrunching the hair on their head.
- the method measures the force of compression of a swatch using a cylinder and piston set up.
- the resistance offered by the sample is taken as indicator of hair softness.
- hair softness is a desirable attribute for the curliest hair, hair softness was assessed on very curly hair from (curl pattern 7-8) as follows:
- the swatch is inserted inside the cylinder with the root ends at the bottom and the tips ends facing upwards.
- the swatch is secured using a cotton string. This allows for the swatch to be introduced without any constraints.
- the piston is then attached to the sensor and the compression force exerted by the piston onto the swatch are measured. This is repeated 5 times and the average compression work is captured using a LLOYD LS1EH extensometer (Amatek): the lower the compression work, the softer the hair.
- compositions according to the invention improve the softness of the hair in a very important manner.
- the vitro Afro combing method was developed to simulate the on-head combing motion from root to tip on very curly hair.
- a specific comb designed for combing African hair is used.
- the swatch is inserted at the root of the swatch in the comb and the swatch is clamped to the sensor.
- the swatch moves in a linear translation and the combing forces are measured. This movement is repeated 4 times and the combing forces are captured using a Lloyd LS1EH extensometer (Amatek).
- compositions according to the invention improve the hair combing in a very important manner.
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a composition useful for cleansing keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, which comprises nonionic surfactant(s) of alkylpolyglycoside type, polyol(s), C8-C30 fatty acid ester(s) of sorbitan and cationic polymer(s). The composition of the invention is preferably free of anionic surfactants. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for cleansing keratin fibres using such a composition.
Description
DESCRIPTION
TITLE: Composition comprising nonionic surfactant(s) of alkylpolyglycoside type, polyol(s), C8-C30 fatty acid ester(s) of sorbitan and cationic polymer(s)
The present invention relates to a composition useful for cleansing keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, which comprises nonionic surfactant(s) of alkylpoly glyco side type, polyol(s), C8-C30 fatty acid ester(s) of sorbitan and cationic polymer(s). The composition of the invention is preferably free of anionic surfactants.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for cleansing keratin fibres using such a composition.
People with curly or kinky hair often experience dry hair. This is related to the particular structure of this type of hair.
Moreover, their scalp may also be dry and itchy.
People with curly to kinky hair generally have a scalp which produces little sebum. In addition, this sebum does not distribute well on the scalp and hair, especially when the curls are tight. As sebum has a nourishing and protective role for hair, its poor distribution leads to brittle and fragile hair.
The dryness of the hair and scalp can also be aggravated by the use of shampoos that may be too aggressive.
Therefore, there is a real need to develop compositions that do not have the drawbacks described above, i.e. which are able to cleanse the hair gently and efficiently as well as to bring a moisturizing effect in order to reduce the discomfort for users having curly or kinky hair.
The compositions shall also improve the combing, styling and detangling properties of the hair, in particular curly hair to kinky hair while reducing knots and avoiding breakage or damage of the fibers.
It has now been discovered that a composition, comprising a combination of nonionic surfactant(s) of alkylpolyglycoside type, polyol(s), sorbitan ester(s) and cationic polymer(s) makes it possible to achieve the objectives outlined above. In particular, it has been found that hair treated with such a combination offers efficient but gentle cleansing properties while enhancing the moisture of the hair. Hair moisture is associated with three attributes: i) hair health, ii) look & feel and lastly iii) manageability. Hair health refers to how nourished the hair is, scalp moisture, hair
integrity and hair growth while hair look & feel refer to shine, softness, smoothness, texture and color. The real-life assessment of hair moisturization for women have chemically or non-chemically processed hair is the ease manageability: how easy the hair is to detangle, comb and achieve a desired style.
Thus, a subject of the invention is a composition comprising:
- one or more nonionic surfactants of alkylpolyglycoside type, present in an amount of at least 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,
- one or more polyols,
- one or more C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan,
- one or more cationic polymers.
The composition of the present invention provides a very efficient cleansing of the hair and the scalp with an immediate moisturizing effect. Moreover, the moisturizing effect can last at least 48 hours after the use of the composition. The condition of hair is improved, especially the softness of the hair. The hair is also healthier and stronger, allowing it to better resist to combing and detangling.
Moreover, the hair is easier to comb and detangle and presents better cosmetic properties, particularly in terms of smoothness, suppleness and shine. The hair is also more manageable leading thus to a better styling, and presents less breakage. These benefits are also long lasting.
The composition of the present invention also provides a lasting moisturizing effect to the scalp, therefore reducing the discomfort and the itchiness thereof.
Moreover, the composition of the invention has a reduced water footprint and a good biodegradability.
The composition confers immediate fiber transformation to the hair and imparts moisturizing, emollient and protective properties to the hair and to the scalp. The composition provides instant softness and hydration to the hair fibers.
The application of the composition conducts to a slight waxy coating on the hair, which results an improvement in the smoothness and suppleness of the hair fibers. This slightly waxy coating thus aids in the combing and detangling of the hair to facilitate styling.
The composition according to the invention also has a good moisturizing effect on the scalp. Without being bound by this theory, it is known that curly hair and scalp, and more particularly frizzy hair and scalp, can be naturally dry, with little production of sebum. This type of hair needs to be permanently nourished and hydrated. The composition according to the invention contributes in hair hydration and
thus improves its strength and resistance (hair less fragile or brittle) as well as its softness. The composition according to the invention is particularly useful for treating curly or frizzy hair.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for cleansing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, which consists in applying to said keratin fibres a composition as previously defined.
Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows.
In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "of between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "free of" a component refers to a composition which contains less than 0.1% by weight of said component, preferably which does not contain (0%) said component, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of anionic surfactants.
Preferably, the composition of the invention is free of amphoteric surfactants.
More preferably, the composition of the invention is free of anionic surfactants and of amphoteric surfactants.
Preferably, the composition of the invention is free of silicones.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of anionic surfactants, of amphoteric surfactants and of silicones.
Nonionic surfactants of alkylpoly glycoside type
The composition according to the invention comprises one or more nonionic surfactants of alkylpoly glyco side type, present in an amount of at least 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The nonionic surfactants of alkylpoly glyco side type which may be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from the compounds of the following general formula: RlO-(R2O)t-(G)v in which:
- R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical, the linear or branched alkyl radical of which comprises from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- G represents a sugar unit comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
- 1 denotes a number ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,
- v denotes a number ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.
Preferably, the nonionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type are compounds of the formula described above in which:
- R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- 1 denotes a number ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,
- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;
- the degree of polymerization, that is to say the value of v, being able to range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being of between 1 and 2.
The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside is an alkyl(poly)glucoside. Preference is very particularly given to C8-C18 alkyl (l,4)-(poly)glucosides, and in particular coco-glucoside.
Preferentially, the composition comprises one or more alkyl(poly)glycosides chosen from, alone or as a mixture, (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides.
Preferably, the nonionic surfactant of alkylpolyglycoside type is chosen from decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, coco glucoside, capryl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside and their mixtures.
More preferentially, the nonionic surfactant of alkylpolyglycoside type is coco-glucoside.
Mention may be made, among the commercial products, of the products sold by BASF under the Plantacare® 818 name.
Preferably, the total amount of the nonionic surfactant(s) of alkylpolyglycoside type ranges from 4 to 15 % by weight, preferentially from 4.5 to
10% by weight, more preferentially from 5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the total amount of (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides ranges from 4 to 15 % by weight, preferentially from 4.5 to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the total amount of (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides ranges from 4 to 15 % by weight, preferentially from 4.5 to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
More preferably, the total amount of coco-glucoside ranges from 4 to 15 % by weight, preferentially from 4.5 to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Polyols
The composition according to the invention comprises one or more polyols.
The polyols of the invention are different from the alkylpolyglycosides previously described, and are different from polysaccharides.
By "polyol" within the meaning of the present invention is meant an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and carrying at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) carried by different carbon atoms, it being possible for this compound to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Preferably the hydrocarbon chain comprises from 2 to 10, more preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, better still from 2 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably the hydrocarbon chain is linear or branched, and saturated.
Particularly, the polyol(s) comprise(s) from 2 to 30 hydroxy groups, more preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, even more preferably from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups.
Preferably, the polyol(s) comprise(s) from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and from 2 to 3 OH groups.
The polyols may be chosen from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane- 1,3 -diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane- 1,2-diol, octane- 1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerin.
Preferably, the total amount of polyol(s) ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, and better still from 2 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
More preferably, the total amount of polyols comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and from 2 to 3 OH groups, ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, and better still from 2 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Preferentially, the total amount of glycerin ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, and better still from 2 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Fatty acid esters of sorbitan
The composition according to the invention comprises one or more C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan.
The C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan may be oxyethylenated or non- oxyethylenated.
Preferably, the fatty acid is unsaturated (comprises at least one C=C bond, preferably one) and more preferably comprises 12 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from 14 to 20, most preferably is oleic acid.
The non-oxyethylenated C8-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acid esters (especially monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan may be chosen from: sorbitan caprylate; sorbitan cocoate; sorbitan isostearate; sorbitan laurate; sorbitan oleate; sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate; sorbitan diisostearate; sorbitan dioleate; sorbitan distearate; sorbitan sesquicaprylate; sorbitan sesquiisostearate; sorbitan sesquioleate; sorbitan sesquistearate; sorbitan triisostearate; sorbitan trioleate; and sorbitan tristearate, more preferably sorbitan oleate.
The polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (especially monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan containing especially from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters of C12- C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic, oleic acid, of sorbitan containing especially from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, such as:
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 OE) (POLYSORBATE-21),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 OE) (POLYSORBATE-20),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 OE) (POLYSORBATE-
40),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 OE) (POLYSORBATE-60),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 OE) (POLYSORBATE-61),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 OE) (POLYSORBATE-80),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (5 OE) (POLYSORB ATE- 81),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan tristearate (20 OE) (POLYSORBATE-65),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan trioleate (20 OE) (POLYSORBATE-85).
The polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (especially monoesters, diesters, triesters and tetraesters) of sorbitan, containing especially from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide, may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters, containing especially from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide, of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic acid, of sorbitan, such as:
- the polyoxyethylenated ester containing 20 OE of sorbitan and of cocoic acid (PEG-20 sorbitan cocoate),
- the polyoxyethylenated esters (especially containing from 2 to 20 OE) of sorbitan and of isostearic acid (such as PEG-2 sorbitan isostearate; PEG-5 sorbitan isostearate; PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate such as the product sold under the name Nikkol TI 10 V by the company Nikkol),
- the polyoxyethylenated esters (especially containing from 2 to 20 OE) of sorbitan and of lauric acid (such as PEG- 10 sorbitan laurate),
- the polyoxyethylenated esters (especially containing from 2 to 20 OE) of sorbitan and of oleic acid containing 10 oxyethylene groups (such as PEG-6 sorbitan oleate; PEG-20 sorbitan oleate),
- the polyoxyethylenated esters (especially containing from 3 to 20 OE) of sorbitan and of stearic acid (such as PEG-3 sorbitan stearate; PEG-4 sorbitan stearate; PEG-6 sorbitan stearate).
The C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan are preferably chosen from non- oxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, preferably from non- oxyethylenated C12-C22 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, and even more preferably from: sorbitan caprylate; sorbitan cocoate; sorbitan isostearate; sorbitan laurate; sorbitan oleate; sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate; sorbitan diisostearate; sorbitan dioleate; sorbitan distearate; sorbitan sesquicaprylate; sorbitan sesquiisostearate; sorbitan sesquioleate; sorbitan sesquistearate; sorbitan triisostearate; sorbitan trioleate; and sorbitan tristearate and mixture thereof. Preferentially, the C8-C30 fatty acid ester of sorbitan is sorbitan oleate.
Preferably, the total amount of C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan ranges from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the total amount of non-oxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan ranges from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the total amount of sorbitan oleate ranges from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Cationic polymers
The composition according to the invention also comprises on or more cationic polymers.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" refers to any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups ionizable into cationic groups. The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups which can either form part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto.
Preferably, the cationic polymers according to the invention do not comprise any anionic group or any group ionizable to an anionic group.
Preferably, the cationic polymers that may be used have a weight- average molar mass (Mw) of between about 500 and 5.106, preferably of between about 103 and 3.106.
Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of:
(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and including at least one of the units having the following formulae:
in which formulae:
- R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; - A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxy alkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R4, Rs and Re, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; and
- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide. The copolymers of the family (1) may also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower alkyls (C1-C4), acrylic acids or methacrylic
acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:
- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,
- copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the products sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy, the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,
- quaternized or non-quatemized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573,
- dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/ vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,
- vinylpyrrolidone/ methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP; quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/ dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP;
- polymers, preferably crosslinked polymers, of methacryloyloxy(Cl C4)alkyltri(Cl-C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company
Ciba. Use may also be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.
(2) cationic polysaccharides, notably cationic celluloses, guar gums and galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, cationic guar gums and cationic galactomannan gums.
The cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups are notably described in FR 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described notably in patent US 4 131 576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses notably grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
Among the cationic cellulose derivatives, use may also be made of cationic associative celluloses, which may be chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular quaternized celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
Mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear
or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24 or even from 10 to 14 carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
Mention may be made of the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (VI):
in which:
- R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN+-, Q’ in which Ra, Rb and Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Cl to C30 alkyl, preferably an alkyl, and Q" represents an anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide;
- R’ represents an ammonium group R’aR’bR’cN+-, Q’’ in which R’a, R’b and R’c, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Cl to C30 alkyl, preferably an alkyl, and Q’- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide; it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b and R’c represents a linear or branched C8 to C30 alkyl;
- n, x and y, which may be identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10000.
Preferably, in formula (VI), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b or R’c represents a linear or branched C8 to C30, better still CIO to C24 or even CIO to C14 alkyl; mention may be made in particular of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, the other radical(s) represent a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl, notably methyl.
Preferably, in formula (VI), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b or R’c represents a linear or branched C8 to C30, better still CIO to C24 or even CIO to C14 alkyl; mention may be made in particular of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, the other radicals represent a linear or branched Cl to C4 alkyl, notably methyl.
Better still, R may be a group chosen from -N+(CH3)3, Q’“ and - N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q”, preferably a group -N+(CH3)3, Q’’.
Even better still, R’ may be a group -N+(Ci2H2s)(CH3)2, Q’“.
The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
Mention may notably be made of the polymers having the following INCI names:
- Polyquatemium-24, such as the product Quatrisoft LM 200®, sold by the company Amerchol/Dow Chemical;
- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product Crodacel QM®;
- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (C12 alkyl), such as the product Crodacel QL®; and
- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (C18 alkyl), such as the product Crodacel QS®, sold by the company Croda.
Mention may also be made of the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (VI) in which R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R’ represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferentially R represents trimethylammonium chloride (CH3)3N+-, CP and R’ represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride (CH3)2(Ci2H2s)N+-, Cl". This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; as commercial products, mention may be made of the Softcat Polymer SL® polymers, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5, from the company Amerchol/Dow Chemical.
More particularly, the polymers of formula (VI) are, for example, those whose viscosity is between 2000 and 3000 cPs inclusive, preferentially between 2700 and 2800 cPs (between 2.7 and 2.8 Pa.s). Typically, Softcat Polymer SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs (2.5 Pa.s), Softcat Polymer SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs (2.7 Pa.s) and Softcat Polymer SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs (2.8 Pa.s). Use may also be made of Softcat Polymer SX-1300X with a viscosity of between 1000 and 2000 cPs (between 1 and 2 Pa.s).
The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, a chloride). The cationic guar may be chosen from products with INCI name hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride or guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Such products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar Cl 62 by the company Rhodia.
(3) polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quatemization products of these polymers.
(4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis- haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis- azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they include one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quatemized;
(5) polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/ dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical includes from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/ dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.
(6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine including two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the mole ratio between the poly alkylene poly amine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or else under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.
(7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers including, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (VII) or (VIII):
in which formulae (VII) and (VIII):
- k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;
- R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
- Rio and Rn, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxy alkyl group in which the alkyl group contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a Cl to C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively Rio and Rn may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Rio and Rn, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and
- Y’ is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
Mention may be made more particularly of the dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymer sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco (and homologues thereof of low weight- average molar masses) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide, notably sold under the names Merquat 550 and Merquat 7SPR.
(8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula
in which formula (IX):
- R13, R14, RIS and Ri6, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower
hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or alternatively R13, Ru, Ris and Ri6, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom, or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and Ri6 represent a linear or branched Cl to C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
- Ai and Bi represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups; and
- X" denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; it being understood that Ai, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; in addition, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxy alkylene radical, Bi can also denote a group (CH2)nCO-D-OC- (CH2)n- in which D denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2-CH2-O)x-CH2-CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)-, where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or alternatively the divalent radical - CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-; or d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-.
Preferably, X" is an anion, such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number- average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100000.
Mention may be made more particularly of polymers consisting of repeating units corresponding to the formula (X):
in which formula (X) Ri, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately, and X" is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
A compound of formula (X) that is particularly preferred is the one for which Ri, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, which is known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.
(9) polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (XI):
in which formula (XI):
- Ris, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, P-hydroxyethyl, P-hydroxypropyl or CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)POH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer of between 1 and 6, with the proviso that Ris, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
- r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
- q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
- X" denotes an anion, such as a halide, and
- A denotes a dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2- CH2 .
Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® ADI, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.
(10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.
(11) polyamines such as Poly quart® H sold by Cognis, which is referenced under the name Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.
(12) polymers including in their structure:
(a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:
(b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:
In other words, these polymers may be notably chosen from homopolymers or copolymers including one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers including, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).
These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.
The weight- average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500000 g/mol.
The cationic charge density of these polymers may range from 2 meq/g to 20 meq/g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq/g and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq/g.
The polymers including units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are notably sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
Preferably, the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from cationic polysaccharides (family (2)) and mixtures thereof, more preferably from cationic galactomannan gums and mixtures thereof, preferentially from cationic guar gums and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and mixtures thereof, and better still from guar gums modified with a 2,3- epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt.
Preferably, the total amount of the cationic polymer(s) ranges from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the total amount of the cationic polysaccharide(s) ranges from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, or even from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
More preferably, the total amount of cationic guar gums ranges from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, or even from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Oils of triglyceride type
The composition of the invention may also comprise oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, com oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
When present in the composition of the invention, the total amount of triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin ranges preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, preferentially from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additives
The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more additive(s) other than the compounds of the invention.
As additives that may be used in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of amphoteric surfactants, amphoteric, anionic or non-ionic polymers, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including tocopherol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, mineral or organic thickeners, especially polymeric thickeners, opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances and preserving agents.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s) such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).
The above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0.001% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Another object of the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for cleansing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, which consists in applying to said keratin fibres a composition as previously defined, and after an optional leave-on time, optionally removing it by rinsing.
After an optional leave-on time, the composition may preferably be removed by rinsing with water. The fibres may then be dried or left to dry.
Generally, the leave-on time of the composition on the keratin fibres may range from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.
The composition may be applied to wet or dry keratin fibres, preferably wet keratin fibres.
In the present invention, the term “keratin fibres” denotes human keratin fibres, and in particular human hair.
The example that follows serves to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
Examples
In the example that follow and unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are indicated as mass percentages of active material (am) relative to the total weight of the composition. a) Compositions
Compositions Al and A2 (according to the invention) and C (comparative) were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below.
b) Protocol for product application
The compositions Al and A2 (according to the invention) and C (comparative), as well as a further composition D (a standard shampoo on the market, comparative) were applied to wet hair (naturally curly hair, curl pattern 4-5 or 7-8).
For each test, a product amount 0.4g/g of hair was applied for 30 seconds by massaging onto wet hair, product was left on hair for 1 min then rinsed for 30 seconds. Assessments were carried out at ambient conditions, the conditioning effects were evaluated on wet and dry hair. c) Wet detangling
A common and highly consumer-relevant approach for measuring this lubrication involves an instrumental combing experiment. To evaluate the smoothness properties, the classical Garcia combing method (ML Garcia and J Diaz, Combability Measurements on Hair, J Cosmet Sci 27 379-398 (1976)) is conducted on hair while hair is still wet.
The standard protocol for assessing detangling is conducted on bleached multi ethnic hair (Curl pattern 4-5). The following protocol was used for each composition Al, A2 and D, a standard shampoo on the market:
1. Eight tresses (each 3.0g, 8in in length) were used per composition.
2. As indicated above (see b)), the product amount applied was 0.4g/g of hair, with 30 seconds of massaging, 1 min leave-in period, followed by 30 second rinse step.
3. Six measurements are taken per tress using an Instron tensile tester to measure maximum force as an indicator of product performance.
4. Testing involves use of an Instron tensile tester to measure frictional forces while a wet hair tress is pulled through a comb and evaluates of the “combing force”: the lower the strength, the easier the detangling.
The results are indicated in the table below:
It can be seen here that the compositions according to the invention improve the detangling of the hair in a very important manner. d) Hair Softness of dry hair
In order to quantify the modification made by the treatment to hair softness, the longitudinal compression forces of dry hair were assessed.
The compression method was developed to simulate the consumer action of assessing softness by touching and scrunching the hair on their head.
The method measures the force of compression of a swatch using a cylinder and piston set up. The resistance offered by the sample is taken as indicator of hair softness. As hair softness is a desirable attribute for the curliest hair, hair softness was assessed on very curly hair from (curl pattern 7-8) as follows:
To carry out the test, after treatment as outlined in the product application protocol outline above (see b) above), the swatch is inserted inside the cylinder with the root ends at the bottom and the tips ends facing upwards. The swatch is secured using a cotton string. This allows for the swatch to be introduced without any constraints. The piston is then attached to the sensor and the compression force exerted by the piston onto the swatch are measured. This is repeated 5 times and the average compression work is captured using a LLOYD LS1EH extensometer (Amatek): the lower the compression work, the softer the hair.
The results are indicated in the table below:
It can be seen here that the compositions according to the invention improve the softness of the hair in a very important manner. e) Ease of combing of dry hair
To assess the combing forces of dry hair swatches in order to quantify the modification made by treatment, the vitro Afro combing method was developed to simulate the on-head combing motion from root to tip on very curly hair. To measure the force of combing of swatch, a specific comb designed for combing African hair is used. To carry out the test, the swatch is inserted at the root of the swatch in the comb and the swatch is clamped to the sensor. The swatch moves in a linear translation and the combing forces are measured. This movement is repeated 4 times and the combing forces are captured using a Lloyd LS1EH extensometer (Amatek).
Ease of combing was assessed on very curly hair from (curl pattern 7-8) as outlined above.
The lower the combing force, the easier the hair is to comb.
The results are indicated in the table below:
It can be seen here that the compositions according to the invention improve the hair combing in a very important manner.
Claims
1. Cosmetic composition comprising:
- one or more nonionic surfactants of alkylpolyglycoside type, present in an amount of at least to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,
- one or more polyols,
- one or more C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan,
- one or more cationic polymers.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein said one or more nonionic surfactants of alkylpolyglycoside type are chosen from (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, preferably from (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, preferably from decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, coco glucoside, capryl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside and their mixtures, and more preferentially the nonionic surfactant of alkylpoly glyco side type is coco-glucoside.
3. Composition according to either of claims 1 or 2, wherein the total amount of nonionic surfactants of alkylpoly glycoside type ranges from 4 to 15 % by weight, preferably from 4.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said one or more polyols are chosen from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane - 1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane- 1,2-diol, octane- 1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerin.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of polyols ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, and better still from 2 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan are chosen from non-oxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, preferably from non-oxyethylenated C12-C22 fatty acid esters
of sorbitan, and even more preferably from sorbitan caprylate; sorbitan cocoate; sorbitan isostearate; sorbitan laurate; sorbitan oleate; sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate; sorbitan diisostearate; sorbitan dioleate; sorbitan distearate; sorbitan sesquicaprylate; sorbitan sesquiisostearate; sorbitan sesquioleate; sorbitan sesquistearate; sorbitan triisostearate; sorbitan trioleate; and sorbitan tristearate and mixtures thereof, and most preferably the C8-C30 fatty acid ester of sorbitan is sorbitan oleate.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan ranges from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said one or more cationic polymers are chosen from:
(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of formula below:
- R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;
A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R4, Rs and Re, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical;
- Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and
- X denotes an anion derived from an organic or inorganic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or an halide such as chloride or bromide;
(2) cationic polysaccharides;
(3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals having linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers;
1
(4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acid compound with a polyamine;
(5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene poly amines with polycarboxylic acids, followed by alkylation with difunctional agents;
(6) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms;
(7) alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers;
(8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula (IX):
formula (IX), in which:
- R13, R14, RIS and Ri6, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkyl aliphatic radicals, or alternatively R , Ru, Ris and Ri6, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R , Ri4, RIS and Ri6 represent a linear or branched Cl to C6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a CO-O-R17-D or CO-NH-R17-D group in which R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
- Ai and Bi represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated and may contain, bonded to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
- X" denotes an anion derived from an organic or inorganic acid; with the proviso that Ai, R13 and R15 may form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; furthermore, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi may also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2-)n- in which D denotes:
a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group conforming to one of the following formulae: -(CH2- CH2-O)x-CH2-CH2- and -[CH2-CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization, or any number from 1 to 4, representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or else the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2- CH2-; or d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-i-CO-CH-;
(9) quaternary poly ammonium polymers comprising units of the formula (XI):
formula (XI), in which:
- Ris, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, P-hydroxyethyl, or P-hydroxypropyl radical or a radical - CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that Ris, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
- r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
- q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
- X- denotes an anion such as a halide, and
- A denotes a radical of a dihalide or represents preferably -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-;
(10) quaternary vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole polymers;
(11) polyamines; and
(12) polymers comprising in their structure:
(a) one or more units conforming to the formula (A) below:
(b) optionally one or more units conforming to the formula (B) below:
9. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein said one or more cationic polymers are chosen from cationic polysaccharides (family (2)) and mixtures thereof, preferably from cationic galactomannan gums and mixtures thereof, more preferably from cationic guar gums and mixtures thereof, preferentially from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and mixtures thereof, and better still from guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of cationic polymers ranges from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which further comprises one or more triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably chosen from heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
12. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the total amount of triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, preferentially from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is free of anionic surfactants.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is free of amphoteric surfactants.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is free of anionic surfactants and of amphoteric surfactants.
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is free of silicones.
17. Cosmetic process for cleansing keratin fibers wherein a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims is applied.
Applications Claiming Priority (4)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| ZA2022/06423 | 2022-06-09 | ||
| ZA2022/06423A ZA202206423B (en) | 2022-06-09 | 2022-06-09 | Composition comprising nonionic surfactant(s) of alkylpolyglycoside type, polyol(s), c8-c30 fatty acid ester(s) of sorbitan and cationic polymer(s) |
| FR2207788A FR3138311A1 (en) | 2022-07-28 | 2022-07-28 | Composition comprising a nonionic surfactant(s) of the alkylpolyglycoside type, a polyol(s), a C8-C30 fatty acid ester(s) of sorbitan and a polymer(s) s) cationic(s) |
| FRFR2207788 | 2022-07-28 |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| WO2023237762A1 true WO2023237762A1 (en) | 2023-12-14 |
Family
ID=86764377
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2023/065541 WO2023237762A1 (en) | 2022-06-09 | 2023-06-09 | Composition comprising nonionic surfactant(s) of alkylpolyglycoside type, polyol(s), c8-c30 fatty acid ester(s) of sorbitan and cationic polymer(s) |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| WO (1) | WO2023237762A1 (en) |
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| US4031307A (en) | 1976-05-03 | 1977-06-21 | Celanese Corporation | Cationic polygalactomannan compositions |
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