WO2023141805A1 - Composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials - Google Patents
Composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials Download PDFInfo
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- WO2023141805A1 WO2023141805A1 PCT/CN2022/073954 CN2022073954W WO2023141805A1 WO 2023141805 A1 WO2023141805 A1 WO 2023141805A1 CN 2022073954 W CN2022073954 W CN 2022073954W WO 2023141805 A1 WO2023141805 A1 WO 2023141805A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
- A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular, a composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials.
- the present invention also relates to a process for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials using said composition.
- Cleansing the skin or removing makeups from the skin is very important for caring for the skin. It must be as efficient as possible because greasy residues, such as excess sebum, the remnants of cosmetic products used daily and make-up products, in particular waterproof products, accumulate in the skin folds, and can block the pores of the skin and result in the appearance of spots.
- Soap is well-accepted by consumer because of good foaming, fresh feeling, and the squeaky feeling as all greasy sebum was washed off.
- the squeaky feeling of the soap is come from metal soap (soap scam) .
- the metal soap is water insoluble, and can deposit on the skin, then people felt squeakiness since the water insoluble compound can stop finger from moving smoothly on face during washing out. It makes possible for all sebum and slimy cleanser surfactants being washed off from the skin.
- the soap is a bit harsh due to dryness after rapid evaporation of water.
- the reasons for skin barrier damage include high pH and removing too much skin surface lipid which has occlusive effect to the skin to prevent water loss.
- amino acid surfactant is getting popular due to its mildness. It can make foams in lower pH than a soap. It makes less damage to the skin barrier.
- amino acid surfactant cleanser does not result in metal soap so much; therefore consumers do not have a squeaky feeling on the skin and deem that amino acid surfactant is not effective for cleansing.
- the present invention provides a non-soap composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials comprising:
- composition according to the present invention When the composition according to the present invention is used to wash the skin, avery strong squeaky feeling can be quickly achieved.
- composition according to the present invention also provides a good skin finish (i.e. non-dry skin feeling) after application.
- composition according to the present invention can be used for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, in particular, the skin, especially the face, the lips and/or the eyes.
- the present invention provides a process for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, and rinsing off said composition after a period of massaging.
- keratin material is intended to cover human skin.
- the face, the lips and the eyes are most particularly considered according to the present invention.
- the present invention relates to a non-soap composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials comprising:
- composition according to the present invention comprises at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel particle.
- silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
- sol-gel processes are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical CO 2 . This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material.
- the sol-gel process and the various drying processes are described in detail in Brinker C J., and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990.
- the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that may be used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 /g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
- SM surface area per unit of mass
- the specific surface area per unit of mass may be determined via the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) nitrogen absorption method described in the Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D) .
- the BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
- the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that may be used in the present invention have a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D [0.5] ) , rangingfrom 0.1 to 150 ⁇ m, preferably from 1 to 50 ⁇ m, in particular from 3 to 30 ⁇ m,more preferablyfrom 5 to 20 ⁇ m, and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ m.
- D [0.5] mean volume diameter
- the size of the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern.
- the data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory.
- This theory which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., “Light Scattering by Small Particles, ” Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
- the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D [0.5] ) ranging from 5 to 20 ⁇ m and better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ m.
- SM surface area per unit of mass
- D [0.5] mean volume diameter
- the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a tamped density p ranging from 0.04 g/cm 3 to 0.10 g/cm 3 and preferablyfrom 0.05 g/cm 3 to 0.08 g/cm 3 .
- this density known as the tamped density, may be assessed according to the following protocol:
- the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that may be used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 /cm 3 , preferablyfrom 10 to 50 m 2 /cm 3 and better still from 15 to 40 m 2 /cm 3 .
- the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferablyfrom 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.
- the oil-absorbing capacity measured at the wet point, noted Wp corresponds to the amount of water that needs to be added to 100 g of particle in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
- the oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.
- hydrophobic silica means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, alkylsiloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes or hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
- silylating agents for example halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, alkylsiloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes or hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes
- the hydrophobic silica aerogel particle used is the aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate, 98%active) , by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass rangingfrom 600 to 800 m 2 /g (oil uptake equal to 1080 ml/100 g) .
- the hydrophobic silica aerogel particle is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 1 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the present invention comprises at least one cellulose particle.
- cellulose means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together via b-1, 4 bonds, and in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, aderivative thereof may be used.
- cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers such as carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropyl methylcellulose may be used.
- the cellulose is microcrystalline cellulose.
- Microcrystalline cellulose is purified and partially depolymerized cellulose obtained from fibrous plant material as a pulp.
- the cellulose preferably has an average particle size of from 10 ⁇ m to 150 ⁇ m, preferablyfrom 30 ⁇ m to 100 ⁇ m, and more preferably from 50 ⁇ m to 80 ⁇ m.
- the average particle size means volume average particle size.
- microcrystalline cellulose be " PH Microcrystalline Cellulose” and PC 611 sold by FMC Corporation, "MICROCRYSTALLINE CELLULOSE” sold by ACCENT, “VIVAPUR CS 70 FM” by JRS.
- microcrystalline cellulose be the isolated, crystalline portion of cellulose fibers from wood pulp which can be used in colloidal (i.e. co-processed with a soluble hydrocolloid) or non-colloidal form.
- the cellulose particle is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 4 wt. %, more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition according to the present invention can provide a squeaky feeling and good cleansing ability even as a non-soap composition.
- irregular shape means a shape not having a smooth spheric surface, for example, it can be a potato or plate shape, or with a porous structure or a rough surface.
- the size of the particles is smaller than the pore size on the skin
- the composition according to the present invention can remove sebum physically and take out dirt from the inside of pores on the skin.
- the hydrophobic silica aerogel particle has a mean volume diameter D [0.5] ranging from 5 to 15 ⁇ m and the cellulose particle has an average particle size ranging from 50 ⁇ m to 80 ⁇ m.
- composition according to the present invention comprises at least surfactant.
- composition according to the present invention is a non-soap composition
- the surfactant contained in the composition is a non-soap surfactant
- the surfactant is selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and combinations thereof.
- anionic surfactants mention can be made of amino acid surfactants, isethionates surfactants, and sulfosuccinates surfactants.
- the surfactant is selected from amino acid surfactants, betaines, and combinations thereof.
- said amino acid surfactant is derived from a carboxylate salt of amino acid wherein the amino group situated on the ⁇ -carbon or ⁇ -carbon of an amino acid salt is acylated with a C 8 -C 22 fatty acid derivative.
- the carboxylate salts of these amino acids can be formed by conventional means such as by neutralization of the respective amino acid with a base.
- the amino group situated on the ⁇ -carbon or ⁇ -carbon of the neutralized amino acid is acylated with a fatty acid halide (acyl halide) in the presence of a base via the well-known Schotten-Baumann reaction giving the amide, thus forming the desired surfactant reaction product, i.e. the amino acid surfactant.
- Suitable acyl halides for acylation of the amino acid carboxylate salt include acyl chlorides, bromides, fluorides, and iodides.
- the acyl halides can be prepared by reacting a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 -C 22 fatty acid with a thionyl halide (bromide, chloride, fluoride, and iodide) .
- a thionyl halide bromide, chloride, fluoride, and iodide
- acyl halides include but are not limited to the acyl chlorides selected from decanoyl chloride, dodecanoyl chloride (lauroyl chloride) , cocoyl chloride (coconut oil derived fatty acid chlorides) tetradecanoyl chloride (myristoyl chloride) , hexadecanoyl chloride (palmitoyl chloride) , octadecanoyl chloride (stearoyl chloride) , 9-octadecenoyl chloride (oleoyl chloride) , eicosanoyl chloride (arachidoyl chloride) , docosanoyl chloride (behenoyl chloride) , and any mixture thereof.
- acyl halides include the bromides, fluorides and iodides of the foregoing fatty acids.
- a method for preparing acyl halides as well as an alternative method for acylating amino acids is set forth in US Patent Application Publication No. 2008/0200704, published on August 21, 2008, which application is incorporated herein by reference.
- said amino acid surfactant is represented by the formula (I) :
- Z represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl having 8 to 22 carbon atoms
- X is hydrogen or methyl group
- n 0 or 1
- Y is selected from hydrogen, -CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 C 6 H 5 , -CH 2 C 2 H 4 OH, -CH 2 OH, -CH (OH) CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 4 NH 2 , - (CH 2 ) 3 NHC (NH) NH 2 , -CH 2 C (O) O - M + , - (CH 2 ) 2 C (O) OH, - (CH 2 ) 2 C (O) O - M + , and
- M is a salt-forming cation wherein COO is the counter-anion, such as for example sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.
- Z represents a linear or branched C 8 -C 22 alkyl or alkenyl
- X is a hydrogen or methyl group
- n 0,
- Y is selected from hydrogen, - (CH 2 ) 2 C (O) OH, - (CH 2 ) 2 C (O) O - M + , and
- M is a salt-forming cation wherein COO is the counter-anion, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.
- amino acid surfactants are salt of alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine, and any mixture thereof.
- amino acid surfactants such as dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate, cocoyl methyl ⁇ -alaninate, la
- acylsarcosinates for instance the sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name Sarkosyl NL bythe company Ciba or sold underthe name Oramix L by the company SEPPIC, the sodium myristoyl sarcosinate sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate by the company Nikkol or the sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate by the company Nikkol; alaninates, for instance the sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN by the company Nikkol or sold under the name Alanone by the company Kawaken, and the N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine triethanolamine sold under the name Alanone by the company Kawaken; N-acylglutamates, for instance the triethanolamine monococoylglutamate sold under the name Acylsarcosinate sold under the name Acylsarcosinate sold under
- the preferred amino acid surfactant is selected from sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, TEA-cocoyl glutamate, or a mixture thereof.
- Mentions of the preferred amino acid surfactant in the composition which is commercially available can be made to sodium lauroyl sarcosinate (ORAMIX L 30 sold by Seppic) , sodium cocoyl glycinate (and) water ( GCS-12K sold by Ajinomoto) , sodium cocoyl glutamate (and) disodium cocoyl glutamate ( CS-22 sold by Ajinomoto) , and sodium lauroyl glutamate ( LS-11 sold by Ajinomoto) .
- the amino acid surfactant is selected from sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, TEA-cocoyl glutamate, and a mixture thereof.
- the composition according to the present invention brings no irritation to keratin materials.
- acylisethionates such as sodium cocoylisethionate.
- sulfosuccinates mention can be made of disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, diammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, and diethylhexyl sodium sulfosuccinate.
- betains mention can be made of coco betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, laurylhydroxy sulfobetaine, lauryldimethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, behenyl betaine, capryl/capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, stearyl betaine, and mixtures thereof.
- the surfactant is selected from sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, TEA-cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoylisethionate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, diammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, and diethylhexyl sodium sulfosuccinate, coco betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, laurylhydroxy sulfobetaine, lauryldimethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, behenyl betaine, capryl/capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, stearyl be
- the surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 50 wt. %, preferably from 5 wt.%to 30 wt. %, more preferably from 10 wt. %to 25 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the present invention comprise from 10 wt. %to 25 wt. %of at least one amino acid surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition of the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.
- the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for instance C 2 -C 8 polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol.
- water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds for instance C 2 -C 8 polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol.
- polyol should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
- examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, for instance butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol and polyethylene glycols.
- the composition according to the present invention comprises water, glycerin, and caprylyl glycol.
- composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more additional ingredients, selected from those conventionally used in skincare cleansers.
- composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise an additional ingredient selected from pH adjusting agents (e.g. citric acid, potassium hydroxide) , preservatives (e.g. hydroxyacetophenone, chlorphenesin) and bactericides (for example, hydroxyacetophenone) , thickeners (for example, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) colorants, peeling agents (for example, lactic acid) , and fragrances (e.g. perfumes, essential oils) , etc.
- pH adjusting agents e.g. citric acid, potassium hydroxide
- preservatives e.g. hydroxyacetophenone, chlorphenesin
- bactericides for example, hydroxyacetophenone
- thickeners for example, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
- peeling agents for example, lactic acid
- fragrances e.g.
- a person skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not adversely affected by the additional ingredients.
- the present invention provides a non-soap composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
- composition according to the present invention can be used for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, in particular, the skin, especially the face, the lips and/or the eyes.
- composition of the present invention is a rinse-off product.
- a composition can be applied on the skin (for example, the face, the lips, the eyes) , and then rinsed with flush water after a period of massaging.
- the present invention provides a process for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, and rinsing off said composition after a period of massaging.
- composition according to the present invention can demonstrate a good rinsing effect and provide a non-dry skin feeling.
- compositions of comparative examples (CE. ) 1-4 and invention example (IE. ) 1 were prepared according to the amounts given in Table 2. The amount of each component is given in%by weight of the total weight of the composition containing it.
- compositions were prepared by combining all components and heating to 80°C to be mixed by stirring, then cooling down to about around 25°C.
- compositions prepared above were evaluated.
- composition of invention example 1 provides a very strong squeakiness intensity and very fast squeakiness speed.
- composition of invention example 1 also provides a good skin finish after application.
Abstract
A non-soap composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials comprises: a) at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel particle; b) at least one cellulose particle; and c) at least one surfactant. A process for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprises applying the composition to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, and rinsing off said composition after a period of massaging.
Description
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular, a composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials. The present invention also relates to a process for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials using said composition.
BACKGROUD ART
Cleansing the skin or removing makeups from the skin is very important for caring for the skin. It must be as efficient as possible because greasy residues, such as excess sebum, the remnants of cosmetic products used daily and make-up products, in particular waterproof products, accumulate in the skin folds, and can block the pores of the skin and result in the appearance of spots.
Several types of skin cleansing or makeup removing products, for example, rinsable anhydrous oils and gels, foaming creams and lotions, are known.
Soap is well-accepted by consumer because of good foaming, fresh feeling, and the squeaky feeling as all greasy sebum was washed off. The squeaky feeling of the soap is come from metal soap (soap scam) .
The metal soap is water insoluble, and can deposit on the skin, then people felt squeakiness since the water insoluble compound can stop finger from moving smoothly on face during washing out. It makes possible for all sebum and slimy cleanser surfactants being washed off from the skin.
However, the soap is a bit harsh due to dryness after rapid evaporation of water. The reasons for skin barrier damage include high pH and removing too much skin surface lipid which has occlusive effect to the skin to prevent water loss.
On the other hand, amino acid surfactant is getting popular due to its mildness. It can make foams in lower pH than a soap. It makes less damage to the skin barrier. However, amino acid surfactant cleanser does not result in metal soap so much; therefore consumers do not have a squeaky feeling on the skin and deem that amino acid surfactant is not effective for cleansing.
Additionally, compared to soap, only amino acid surfactant is difficult to make the cleanser obtained stable. So usually, polymers and/or fillers, nonionic surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants are added to make the cleanser stable. However, the presence of polymers and/or fillers, nonionic surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants also cause non-squeaky sensation.
Thus, there remains a need for a non-soap cleanser which can result in a squeaky and non-dry feeling on the skin.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The inventors have found that such a need can be achieved by the present invention.
Thus, according to an aspect, the present invention provides a non-soap composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials comprising:
a) at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel particle;
b) at least one cellulose particle; and
c) at least one surfactant.
When the composition according to the present invention is used to wash the skin, avery strong squeaky feeling can be quickly achieved.
In addition, the composition according to the present invention also provides a good skin finish (i.e. non-dry skin feeling) after application.
The composition according to the present invention can be used for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, in particular, the skin, especially the face, the lips and/or the eyes.
According to another aspect, the present invention provides a process for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, and rinsing off said composition after a period of massaging.
Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.
Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.
In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between…and…" and "ranging from... to... " .
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .
Throughout the instant application, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .
Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired purpose as required.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is intended to cover human skin. The face, the lips and the eyes are most particularly considered according to the present invention.
All percentages in the present invention refer to weight percentage, unless otherwise specified.
According to an aspect, the present invention relates to a non-soap composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials comprising:
a) at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel particle;
b) at least one cellulose particle; and
c) at least one surfactant.
Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles
The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel particle.
As used herein, silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical CO
2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying processes are described in detail in Brinker C J., and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990.
Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that may be used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m
2/g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m
2/g and better still from 600 to 800 m
2/g.
The specific surface area per unit of mass may be determined via the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) nitrogen absorption method described in the Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D) . The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that may be used in the present invention have a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D [0.5] ) , rangingfrom 0.1 to 150μm, preferably from 1 to 50μm, in particular from 3 to 30 μm,more preferablyfrom 5 to 20μm, and even better still from 5 to 15μm.
The size of the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., “Light Scattering by Small Particles, ” Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
According to one advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m
2/g and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D [0.5] ) ranging from 5 to 20μm and better still from 5 to 15μm.
The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a tamped density p ranging from 0.04 g/cm
3 to 0.10 g/cm
3 and preferablyfrom 0.05 g/cm
3 to 0.08 g/cm
3.
In the context of the present invention, this density, known as the tamped density, may be assessed according to the following protocol:
40 g of powder are poured into a measuring cylinder; the measuring cylinder is then placed on a Stay 2003 machine from StampfVolumeter; the measuring cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 packing motions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%) ; the final volume Vf of packed powder is then measured directly on the measuring cylinder. The tamped density is determined by the ratio m/Vf, in this instance 40/Vf (Vf being expressed in cm
3and m in g) .
According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that may be used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m
2/cm
3, preferablyfrom 10 to 50 m
2/cm
3 and better still from 15 to 40 m
2/cm
3.
The specific surface area per unit of volume is given by the relationship: SV=SM. ρ; where ρ is the tamped density expressed in g/cm
3 and SM is the specific surface area per unit of mass expressed in m
2/g, as defined above.
Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferablyfrom 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.
The oil-absorbing capacity measured at the wet point, noted Wp, corresponds to the amount of water that needs to be added to 100 g of particle in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
It is measured accordingto the wet point method or the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by measuringthe wet point, described below:
An amount m=2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate, and the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is then added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mixing is performed using a spatula, and addition of oil is continued until a conglomerate of oil and powder has formed. At this point, the oil is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted.
The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.
The term “hydrophobic silica” means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, alkylsiloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes or hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
As regards the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogels particles that have been surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to document U.S. Pat. No. 7,470,725.
Use will be made in particular of hydrophobic silica aerogels particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups with INCI name Silica silylate.
In a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particle used is the aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate, 98%active) , by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass rangingfrom 600 to 800 m
2/g (oil uptake equal to 1080 ml/100 g) .
Due to the pores in the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, oil and water can be absorbed so that an oil and water balance can be achieved.
Advantageously, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particle is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 1 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Cellulose particles
The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one cellulose particle.
As used herein, the term "cellulose" means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together via b-1, 4 bonds, and in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, aderivative thereof may be used. For example, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers (such as carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropyl methylcellulose) may be used.
Preferably, the cellulose is microcrystalline cellulose.
Microcrystalline cellulose is purified and partially depolymerized cellulose obtained from fibrous plant material as a pulp.
The cellulose preferably has an average particle size of from 10μm to 150μm, preferablyfrom 30μm to 100μm, and more preferably from 50μm to 80μm. The average particle size means volume average particle size.
It may be more preferable that the microcrystalline cellulose be "
PH Microcrystalline Cellulose" and
PC 611 sold by FMC Corporation, "MICROCRYSTALLINE CELLULOSE" sold by ACCENT, “VIVAPUR CS 70 FM” by JRS.
It may be preferable that the microcrystalline cellulose be the isolated, crystalline portion of cellulose fibers from wood pulp which can be used in colloidal (i.e. co-processed with a soluble hydrocolloid) or non-colloidal form.
Advantageously, the cellulose particle is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 4 wt. %, more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
With the hydrophobic silica aerogel particle and the cellulose particle, especially with a small size and irregular shape, the composition according to the present invention can provide a squeaky feeling and good cleansing ability even as a non-soap composition.
As used herein, irregular shape means a shape not having a smooth spheric surface, for example, it can be a potato or plate shape, or with a porous structure or a rough surface.
Preferably, the size of the particles is smaller than the pore size on the skin, the composition according to the present invention can remove sebum physically and take out dirt from the inside of pores on the skin.
Most preferably, for the purpose of the present invention, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particle has a mean volume diameter D [0.5] ranging from 5 to 15μm and the cellulose particle has an average particle size ranging from 50μm to 80μm.
Non-soapsurfactants
The composition according to the present invention comprises at least surfactant.
Since the composition according to the present invention is a non-soap composition, the surfactant contained in the composition is a non-soap surfactant.
Preferably, the surfactant is selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and combinations thereof.
As anionic surfactants, mention can be made of amino acid surfactants, isethionates surfactants, and sulfosuccinates surfactants.
More preferably, the surfactant is selected from amino acid surfactants, betaines, and combinations thereof.
Preferably, said amino acid surfactant is derived from a carboxylate salt of amino acid wherein the amino group situated on theα-carbon orβ-carbon of an amino acid salt is acylated with a C
8-C
22 fatty acid derivative.
The carboxylate salts of these amino acids can be formed by conventional means such as by neutralization of the respective amino acid with a base. The amino group situated on theα-carbon orβ-carbon of the neutralized amino acid is acylated with a fatty acid halide (acyl halide) in the presence of a base via the well-known Schotten-Baumann reaction giving the amide, thus forming the desired surfactant reaction product, i.e. the amino acid surfactant. Suitable acyl halides for acylation of the amino acid carboxylate salt include acyl chlorides, bromides, fluorides, and iodides. The acyl halides can be prepared by reacting a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C
8-C
22 fatty acid with a thionyl halide (bromide, chloride, fluoride, and iodide) . Representative acyl halides include but are not limited to the acyl chlorides selected from decanoyl chloride, dodecanoyl chloride (lauroyl chloride) , cocoyl chloride (coconut oil derived fatty acid chlorides) tetradecanoyl chloride (myristoyl chloride) , hexadecanoyl chloride (palmitoyl chloride) , octadecanoyl chloride (stearoyl chloride) , 9-octadecenoyl chloride (oleoyl chloride) , eicosanoyl chloride (arachidoyl chloride) , docosanoyl chloride (behenoyl chloride) , and any mixture thereof. Other acyl halides include the bromides, fluorides and iodides of the foregoing fatty acids. A method for preparing acyl halides as well as an alternative method for acylating amino acids is set forth in US Patent Application Publication No. 2008/0200704, published on August 21, 2008, which application is incorporated herein by reference.
Preferably, said amino acid surfactant is represented by the formula (I) :
wherein:
Z represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
X is hydrogen or methyl group,
n is 0 or 1,
Y is selected from hydrogen, -CH
3, -CH (CH
3)
2, -CH
2CH (CH
3)
2, -CH (CH
3) CH
2CH
3, -CH
2C
6H
5, -CH
2C
2H
4OH, -CH
2OH, -CH (OH) CH
3, - (CH
2)
4NH
2, - (CH
2)
3NHC (NH) NH
2, -CH
2C (O) O
-M
+, - (CH
2)
2C (O) OH, - (CH
2)
2C (O) O
-M
+, and
M is a salt-forming cation wherein COO is the counter-anion, such as for example sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in formula (I) :
Z represents a linear or branched C
8-C
22 alkyl or alkenyl,
X is a hydrogen or methyl group,
n is 0,
Y is selected from hydrogen, - (CH
2)
2C (O) OH, - (CH
2)
2C (O) O
-M
+, and
M is a salt-forming cation wherein COO is the counter-anion, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.
Examples of the amino acid surfactants are salt of alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine, and any mixture thereof. More specifically, mentions can be made of the amino acid surfactants such as dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate, cocoyl methylβ-alaninate, lauroylβ-alaninate, lauroyl methylβ-alaninate, myristoylβ-alaninate, potassium lauroyl methylβ-alaninate, sodium cocoyl alaninate, sodium cocoyl methylβ-alaninate and sodium myristoyl methylβ-alaninate palmitoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium myristoyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, sodium caproyl aspartate, disodium lauroyl aspartate, disodium myristoyl aspartate, disodium cocoyl aspartate, disodium caproyl aspartate, potassium lauroyl aspartate, potassium myristoyl aspartate, potassium cocoyl aspartate, potassium caproyl aspartate, dipotassium lauroyl aspartate, dipotassium myristoyl aspartate, dipotassium cocoyl aspartate, dipotassium caproyl aspartate, and mixtures thereof.
References can be made to the commercially available amino acid surfactant of, for example, acylsarcosinates, for instance the sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name Sarkosyl NL
bythe company Ciba or sold underthe name Oramix L
by the company SEPPIC, the sodium myristoyl sarcosinate sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate
by the company Nikkol or the sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate
by the company Nikkol; alaninates, for instance the sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN
by the company Nikkol or sold under the name Alanone
by the company Kawaken, and the N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine triethanolamine sold under the name Alanone
by the company Kawaken; N-acylglutamates, for instance the triethanolamine monococoylglutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate
by the company Ajinomoto and the triethanolamine lauroylglutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate
by the company Ajinomoto; glycinates, for instance sodium N-cocoylglycinate sold under the name Amilite
by the company Ajinomoto; aspartates, for instance the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroyl aspartate and of triethanolamine N-myristoylaspartate, sold underthe name
by the company Mitsubishi; citrates, and any mixture thereof.
According to the present invention, the preferred amino acid surfactant is selected from sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, TEA-cocoyl glutamate, or a mixture thereof.
Mentions of the preferred amino acid surfactant in the composition which is commercially available can be made to sodium lauroyl sarcosinate (ORAMIX L 30 sold by Seppic) , sodium cocoyl glycinate (and) water (
GCS-12K sold by Ajinomoto) , sodium cocoyl glutamate (and) disodium cocoyl glutamate (
CS-22 sold by Ajinomoto) , and sodium lauroyl glutamate (
LS-11 sold by Ajinomoto) .
According to a preferred embodiment, the amino acid surfactant is selected from sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, TEA-cocoyl glutamate, and a mixture thereof.
Due to the use of amino acid surfactant, the composition according to the present invention brings no irritation to keratin materials.
As examples of isethionates, mention can be made of acylisethionates, such as sodium cocoylisethionate.
As examples of sulfosuccinates, mention can be made of disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, diammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, and diethylhexyl sodium sulfosuccinate.
As examples for betains, mention can be made of coco betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, laurylhydroxy sulfobetaine, lauryldimethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, behenyl betaine, capryl/capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, stearyl betaine, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the surfactant is selected from sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, TEA-cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoylisethionate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, diammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, and diethylhexyl sodium sulfosuccinate, coco betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, laurylhydroxy sulfobetaine, lauryldimethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, behenyl betaine, capryl/capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, stearyl betaine, and a combination thereof.
Advantageously, the surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 50 wt. %, preferably from 5 wt.%to 30 wt. %, more preferably from 10 wt. %to 25 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Even more advantageously, the composition according to the present invention comprise from 10 wt. %to 25 wt. %of at least one amino acid surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Aqueous phase
The composition of the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.
The aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for instance C
2-C
8 polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol.
The term “polyol” should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, for instance butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol and polyethylene glycols.
Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises water, glycerin, and caprylyl glycol.
Additional ingredients
The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more additional ingredients, selected from those conventionally used in skincare cleansers.
The composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise an additional ingredient selected from pH adjusting agents (e.g. citric acid, potassium hydroxide) , preservatives (e.g. hydroxyacetophenone, chlorphenesin) and bactericides (for example, hydroxyacetophenone) , thickeners (for example, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) colorants, peeling agents (for example, lactic acid) , and fragrances (e.g. perfumes, essential oils) , etc.
A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not adversely affected by the additional ingredients.
According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a non-soap composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
a) from 0.15 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %of silica silylate;
b) from 0.5 wt. %to 3 wt. %of microcrystalline cellulose; and
c) from 10 wt. %to 25 wt. %of at least one amino acid surfactant.
Use
The composition according to the present invention can be used for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, in particular, the skin, especially the face, the lips and/or the eyes.
It may be used as a daily facial cleanser and/or makeup remover. The composition of the present invention is a rinse-off product. Thus, such a composition can be applied on the skin (for example, the face, the lips, the eyes) , and then rinsed with flush water after a period of massaging.
Thus, according to another aspect, the present invention provides a process for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, and rinsing off said composition after a period of massaging.
The composition according to the present invention can demonstrate a good rinsing effect and provide a non-dry skin feeling.
The present invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples described below, which are given as non-limiting illustrations.
EXAMPLES
Main raw materials used, trade names and supplier thereof are listed in Table 1.
Table 1
Comparative Examples 1-4 and Invention Example1
Compositions of comparative examples (CE. ) 1-4 and invention example (IE. ) 1 were prepared according to the amounts given in Table 2. The amount of each component is given in%by weight of the total weight of the composition containing it.
Table 2
*: added as a 25 wt. %dispersion in water, the amount indicates that of the dispersion.
**: added as a 30 wt. %dispersion in water, the amount indicates that of the dispersion.
Preparationprocess
The compositions were prepared by combining all components and heating to 80℃ to be mixed by stirring, then cooling down to about around 25℃.
Evaluation
The compositions prepared above were evaluated.
0.5g of sample was taken to wet hands. Then 1 g of tap water was added and rubbed for 20 times (3 sets) . Then the foam in palm was collected. The foam was washed off with tap water by hand. The intensity and the times of hands touch before feeling squeaky was counted. The skin finish was evaluated 2 minutes after dried off with a towel.
● Squeakiness intensity was rated according to the following standard:
Very strong : Feeling strong finger stopping sensation
Strong : Feeling finger stopping sensation
Acceptable : not feeling slimy neither stopping sensation
Bad : Feeling Slimy sensation
● Squeakiness speed was rated according to the following standard:
Very fast : <2 touch wash-off
Fast : >=2, <4 touch wash-off
Acceptable : >=4, <6 touch wash-off
Slow : >=6, <8 touch wash-off
Very slow : >8 touch wash-off
Skin finish was rated 2 minutes after drying off with a towel according to the following standards.
Rate | Skin finish |
Very good | Hydration sensation, smooth skin |
Good | Not dry Sensation |
Dry | Dry sensation, rough surface |
The results of the evaluations were summarized in Table 3.
Table 3
It was found that composition of invention example 1 provides a very strong squeakiness intensity and very fast squeakiness speed.
In addition, composition of invention example 1 also provides a good skin finish after application.
Claims (15)
- A non-soap composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials comprising:a) at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel particle;b) at least one cellulose particle; andc) at least one surfactant.
- The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particle has a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2/g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2/g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2/g and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter D [0.5] ranging from 0.1 to 150 μm, preferably from 1 to 50μm, in particular from 3 to 30μm, more preferably from 5 to 20μm, and even better still from 5 to 15μm.
- The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particle is selected from silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents such as halogenated silanes, alkylsiloxanes, or silazanes.
- The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particle is silica silylate.
- The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particle is present in an amount rangingfrom 0.05 wt. %to 1 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the cellulose particle is selected from celluloses, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, cellulose ester ethers and a combination thereof.
- The composition according to any of claims 1-6, wherein the cellulose particle is selected from microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, and a combination thereof.
- The composition accordingto any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the cellulose particle has an average particle size of from 10μm to 150μm, preferablyfrom 30μm to 100μm, and more preferably from 50μm to 80μm.
- The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the cellulose particle is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 4 wt. %, more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the surfactant is a non-soap surfactant.
- The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the surfactant is selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and combinations thereof, preferably selected from amino acid surfactants amino acid surfactants, isethionates surfactants, sulfosuccinates surfactants, betains, and combinations thereof, more preferably selected from sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, TEA-cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoylisethionate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, diammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, and diethylhexyl sodium sulfosuccinate, coco betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, laurylhydroxy sulfobetaine, lauryldimethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, behenyl betaine, capryl/capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, stearyl betaine, and a combination thereof.
- The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 50 wt. %, preferably from5 wt. %to 30 wt. %, more preferably from 10 wt. %to 25 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- The composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:a) from 0.15 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %of silica silylate;b) from 0.5 wt. %to 3 wt. %of microcrystalline cellulose; andc) from 10 wt. %to 25 wt. %of at least one amino acid surfactant.
- The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein both of the silica silylate and microcrystalline cellulose have irregular shape.
- A process for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to any of claims 1-14 to the keratin materials, and rinsing off said composition after a period of massaging.
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PCT/CN2022/073954 WO2023141805A1 (en) | 2022-01-26 | 2022-01-26 | Composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials |
FR2201662A FR3132021A1 (en) | 2022-01-26 | 2022-02-25 | cleansing and/or makeup-removing composition for keratinous materials |
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PCT/CN2022/073954 WO2023141805A1 (en) | 2022-01-26 | 2022-01-26 | Composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials |
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Citations (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO2006118939A1 (en) * | 2005-05-02 | 2006-11-09 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Personal care composition |
WO2013117664A2 (en) * | 2012-02-10 | 2013-08-15 | Unilever Plc | Hydrophobic silicas as squeakiness enhancers in cleansing compositions |
WO2013164185A1 (en) * | 2012-04-30 | 2013-11-07 | Unilever Plc | Polymers of trialkyl quaternary ammonium ethyl methacrylate salts as squeakiness enhancers in cleansing compositions |
WO2017198561A1 (en) * | 2016-05-19 | 2017-11-23 | L'oreal | Rinseable composition comprising exfoliant particles |
WO2019236131A1 (en) * | 2018-06-05 | 2019-12-12 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Rinse-off cleansing compositions comprising materials that modify sebum |
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DE19648798C2 (en) | 1996-11-26 | 1998-11-19 | Hoechst Ag | Process for the production of organically modified aerogels by surface modification of the aqueous gel (without prior solvent exchange) and subsequent drying |
US20080200704A1 (en) | 2007-02-20 | 2008-08-21 | Multi Formulations Ltd. | Preparation of amino acid-fatty acid amides |
-
2022
- 2022-01-26 WO PCT/CN2022/073954 patent/WO2023141805A1/en unknown
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Patent Citations (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO2006118939A1 (en) * | 2005-05-02 | 2006-11-09 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Personal care composition |
WO2013117664A2 (en) * | 2012-02-10 | 2013-08-15 | Unilever Plc | Hydrophobic silicas as squeakiness enhancers in cleansing compositions |
WO2013164185A1 (en) * | 2012-04-30 | 2013-11-07 | Unilever Plc | Polymers of trialkyl quaternary ammonium ethyl methacrylate salts as squeakiness enhancers in cleansing compositions |
WO2017198561A1 (en) * | 2016-05-19 | 2017-11-23 | L'oreal | Rinseable composition comprising exfoliant particles |
WO2019236131A1 (en) * | 2018-06-05 | 2019-12-12 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Rinse-off cleansing compositions comprising materials that modify sebum |
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